Tasted at Vinitaly: D'Alfonso del Sordo

Gianfelice and Celeste del Sordo have their stand at Vinitaly across the corridor from Montenidoli, and Elisabetta invited then to dinner a couple of years ago. I enjoyed talking with them considerably, and stopped to taste their wines the next day, coming away quite impressed. So I've been going back...

D'Alfonso del Sordo Posta Arignano Bianco San severo DOC 2010
Lot 80 11
Trebbiano, 40% Bombino Bianco and 10% Verdeca. It's brassy gold with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with elegant floral accents mingled with loquats and some underlying savory notes that add depth; nice balance and fresh, though obviously still developing. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright lemony mineral fruit that has some grapefruit accents and flows into a long savory mineral finish with grapefruit acidity. Quite fresh and will work nicely as an aperitif or with grilled or roasted fish, and will go quickly. A second bottle would come in handy.
2 stars

D'Alfonso del Sordo Catapanus Puglia Bombino Bianco IGT 2010
Lot 66 11
Pale brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with herbals accents and straw shot through with minerality and supported by some gunflint as well, and an aunderpinning of sea salt. On the palate it's light and savory, with crisp pineapple acidity and some underlying minerality that carries into a fairly long tart finish with lasting acidity. Quite direct, a simple summer wine that will drink very well with grilled or fried fish or meats, and be quite refreshing in any occasion it's served in. Expect it to go quickly and for people to want more.
1 star

D'Alfonso del Sordo Candelaro Piglia IGT Bianco 2009
Lot 82/10
This is Chardonnay and Sauvignon blanc barrel fermented separately and then combined in steel. It's brassy gold with bright brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some gooseberry and slight minerality; it's rather graceful. On the palate it's full, with bright gooseberry fruit supported by minerality and gunflint bitterness, while powerful sea salt -- almost like a summer breeze at the beach -- emerges to provide crispness and continues onto the finish, which also has crisp accents. It will work quite well with grilled or roasted fish, and will also age nicely for several more years.
2 stars

D'Alfonso del Sordo Posta Arignano Rosato San Severo DOC 2010
Lot 73 11
This is a blend of Montepulciano and Sangiovese. Pale pink with brilliant pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is a little out of sorts -- just bottled -- with, as it opens, raspberry and minerality, though it's too soon to say much more. On the palate it's pleasant, with fairly rich minerality supported by bitter accents and sea salt, which flow into a fairly long warm savory finish with pleasant raspberry overtones. Quite nice, and will drink very well as an aperitif or at a cookout, and is a perfect summer wine. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

D'Alfonso del Sordo Posta Arignano San Severo Rosso DOC 2010
This is a bottling for Vinitaly.
The same 70-30 Montepulciano-Sangiovese blend as the Rosato. Lively pale ruby with brilliant reflections and pale rim. The bouquet is fresh, and rich for a just bottled wine, with lively floral accents and violets mingled with ripe berry fruit that has some jammy accents and some graphite shavings, and slight vegetal savory notes. On the palate it's light, with lively cherry plum fruit supported by mineral acidity and some bitter notes, and by smooth light tannins that flow into a clean slightly bitter fruit laced finish. Quite simple, a classic food wine that will drink well throughout the meal, and go quickly.

D'Alfonso del Sordo Montero Puglia IGT Rosso 2009
This is a bottling for Vinitaly
Primarily Montepulciano with a little Cabernet. Pale cherry ruby with ruby rim and white nail. The bouquet is rich, with fairly intense berry fruit supported by some graphite shavings and slight jammy accents. Still quite young. On the palate it's bright, with rich jammy cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a slight splintery burr and flow into a clean fairly rich cherry fruit finish. It's quite young and the tannins need another year to come together, but will be graceful in a deft fruit driven key, and age nicely for 3-5 years . Quite promising.

D'Alfonso del Sordo Casteldrione Puglia Uva di Troia IGT 2009
This is a bottling for Vinitaly.
This is from a younger vineyard planted from cuttings from their older vines; the bunches are a bit smaller than those around Castel del Monte, and have thicker skins. The bouquet is rich, with violets and spice mingling with ripe berry fruit and a fair amount of alcohol, and some vegetal accents shot rhtough with sea salt. On the palate it's full, and fairly rich, with pleasant sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are smooth and dusty, flowing into lasting warmth. It's pleasant in a fairly direct key, and drink nicely with grilled meats or light roasts.

D'Alfonso del Sordo Contrada del Santo Puglia IGT Rosso 2006
Lot 56/2008
This is 80% Uva di Troia and 20% Merlot. It's deep black cherry ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with quite a bit of alcohol and greenish accents supported by plum berry fruit and some balsamic notes; there's also some sea salt and some walnut skin bitterness. On the palate it's ripe, with rather exotic balsam-laced red berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that do reveal Merlot, and by deft mineral acidity that flows into a long prune finish with some mineral underpinning. A nice blend and the Merlot does tame the wilder aspects of the Nero di Troia; it's quiet approachable in what is perhaps an exotic key for those used to just French varietals, but will work very well with hearty roasts or grilled meats.
88-90

D'Alfonso del Sordo DogaNera Daunia IGT 2006
Lot 8246
This is a Merlot, and is deep cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with ith cedar-laced balsamic berry fruit supported by warmth and pleasant spice with mentholated accents. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, though not with the softness I generally expect from Merlot; rather the fruit is bright and sour, cherry with hints of citrus, and supported by tannins that are smooth and extremely round, but are also warm and have balsamic notes, and flow into a long fruit laced finish with tannic underpinning. Very different from more northerly Merlot, and will drink nicely with hearty roasts or stews; game come to mind, as does leg of lamb or fattier grilled meats such as lamb chops. Particular, but also considerable finesse.
88-90

D'Alfonso del Sordo Cava del Re Daunia IGT 2006
Lot 180/09
This is Cabernet Sauvignon; it's deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful and jammy with red berry fruit supported by pleasant vegetal accents and some savory notes. Nice depth, and riper than some, without bell peppers and such, and a pleasant some bitter cocoa and chocolate too, slight coffee grounds. On the palate it's rich, with pleasant ripe cherry and plum fruit supported by deft minerality and graphite shaving bitterness, and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight burr and some balsamic notes that confer an exotic touch, and flow into a fairly long sour cherry finish. Pleasant, and though it's still young will drink very well with grilled meats or roasts in the sort term, and also age well too.
88-90

D'Alfonso del Sordo Guado San Leo Daunia IGT 2007
Lot 22 109
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim and cherry at the nail. The bouquet is powerful, with haunting vegetal laced berry fruit supported by greenish accents and spice, and some balsamic notes as well, and nice spice as well. Quite rich and very young. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry fruit laced with vegetal and balsamic accents and supported by fairly brifth berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a greenish peppery burr and flow into a fairly long finish with tannic underpinning. Quite pleasant, and a step up in terms of vintage quality with respect to the 2006; it's a very young wine, and will age nicely for many years, though one could press it into service now woitu something along the lines of leg of lamb.
90-92

D'Alfonso Del Sordo, Fine Wines from Daunia, in Puglia North of the Murge

I met Gianfelice and Celeste D'Alfonso Del Sordo, of D'Alfonso Del Sordo several years ago at the Ristorante il Calmiere in Verona -- we were both guests of Elisabetta Fagioli, and took advantage of the relative calm of the restaurant (relative to Vinitaly most anything is calm) to chat, and the next day I tasted their wines, which I enjoyed. So I stopped by again this year, and tasted again. And again came away quite favorably impressed; they are doing some fascinating things in Northern Puglia. Vinitaly being what it is, rather than talk I took notes on the wines:

D'Alfonso del Sordo Catapanus Bombino Bianco IGT Daunia 2009
Pale brassy white with brassy golden reflections and white rim. The bouquet is pleasant, with rich floral accents mingled with heather and slight savory notes, and also some loquat and a certain pungency. On the palate it's bright, with lively slightly greenish berry fruit supported by savory minerality and some tart tannic acidity that flows into a clean rather herbal savory finish. Pleasant, and will work nicely as an aperitif or with fish based dishes, ranging from pasta sauces through grilled or roasted finish, and also with white meats. In short, a versatile food wine. Also a wine with a nice aging potential, and may well be superior in a year or two.
2 stars

D'Alfonso del Sordo Candelaro Puglia IGT Bianco 2009
This is a barrel fermented bland of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. It's brassy gold with brilliant golden reflections the bouquet is fairly rich, with dusky white berry fruit mingled with gooseberry and some spice. Nice depth, and there is also, as it opens, some butterscotch. On the palate it's ample and rich, with fairly sweet honeydew melon fruit laced with gooseberry warmth and supported by smooth acidity and some languidity from the tannins drawn from the oak. Pleasant in a softer key, and will work well as an aperitif or with spicier foods that will be tempered by the softness, which comes form letting the grapes ripen until the end of August.
2 stars

D'Alfonso del Sordo Posta Arignano San Severo DOC Rosato 2009
This is a blend of Montepulciano D'Abruzzo and about 20% Sangiovese. It's lively pink with brilliant slightly salmonate reflections and white rim. The bouquet is still closed, though swishing brings up clean berry fruit raspberry and some currant, supported by fairly lively acidity. On the palate it's ample and rich, with clean fresh berry fruit supported by lively raspberry acidity and by delicate tannins that flow into a clean fresh raspberry finish that is fairly long. Quite nice, and will be a perfect summer cookout wine, or a wine to sip with friends on the terrace as the darkness grows and the shadows lengthen.
88-90

D'Alfonso del Sordo Posta Arignano San Severo Rosso DOC 2008
This is a Montepulciano and Sangiovese, like the Rosato, fermented in steel. Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with savory slightly balsamic accents and a fair amount of alcohol supporting pleasant prune fruit that opens nicely. On the palate it's rich, with pleasant very smooth prune fruit supported by warmth and some acidity, and by clean sweet tannins that flow into a fairly rich berry fruit finish with some cedary dusky bitter undertones. Ripe but not overripe, and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

D'Alfonso del Sordo Casteldrione Uva di Troia Puglia IGT Rosso 2008
Barrel sample
Elegant deep pyrope ruby with purple highlights and violet rim. The bouquet is pleasant, with moderate berry fruit supported by India ink bitterness and spice, and by clean graphite shavings from grapes. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with rich cherry prune fruit supported by warm slightly tannic acidity and warmth, and by smooth dry tannins that flow into a clean fresh dry tannic finish with some mineral acidity and slight berry fruit. It's still developing -- barrel samples are by definition but would already be drinkable with simple stews or roasts, and will be quite pleasant in a year's time.

D'Alfonso del Sordo Montero Puglia IGT Rosso 2007
This is a blend of Montepulciano and Cabernet Sauvignon, and spends some time in used barriques. It's deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, with slightly jammy cherry and forest berry fruit supported by deft slightly greenish acidity and by some but not too much cedar; it's quite harmonious in a rather cheeky key. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich cherry and forest berry fruit supported by clean citric acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly tanic fairly long tart finish. Pleasant, and will drink nicely with grilled meats or light stews, and will also age well for a year or two.
2 stars

D'Alfonso del Sordo Contrada del Santo Puglia IGT 2006
This is a blend of Uva di Troia and Merlot, and goes into older barriques for a time. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry prune fruit supported by India ink and some iodine, and by clean cedary spice. On the palate it's full and smooth with rich cherry fruit supported by clean minerality more than acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long berry fruit finish with some prune accents as well. Graceful, in a curvy sort of way, and will drink nicely with drier meats ranging from pork loin though roast beef cooked slightly more well done than rare. It's also a wine that will be nice by the glass far from the table. The Merlot makes itself heard.
88-90

D'Alfonso del Sordo Doganera Merlot Daunia IGT Puglia 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted at first swish; more brings up some cassis mingled with India ink and some cedar with underlying spice. Nice balance and fairly harmonious,. On the palate it's ample and very smooth with fairly rich cassis fruit supported by some dusky acidity and by sweet tannins that flow into a smooth sweet finish kept alive by fairly bright currant acidity that does have some dusky accents. Very typical of Merlot, and very smooth, it's smooth enough that in terms of accompaniments it will work best with drier meats, and it is also a wine to be drink by the glass far from the table.
2 stars

D'Alfonso del Sordo Cava del Re Cabernet Sauvignon Daunia IGT Puglia 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with pyrope rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with deft herbal accents mingled with warmth and spice; and supported by jammy berry fruit and some alcohol. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry fruit supported by fairly bright berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean berry fruit finish. Pleasant, in a fairly rich key, and will drink nicely with grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

D'Alfonso del Sordo Guado San Leo Uva di Troia Puglia IGT 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with violet rim. The bouquet is intense, with India ink and some cumin seed mingled with prune fruit and pleasant airy richness. Quite nice to sniff. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by smooth tannins that have a slight dry sandalwood underpinning attributable to youth, and flows into a clean rather dry finish. Very young, and needs another year at least for the tannins to smooth and fold in. When they do it will be very nice, and quite approachable in a smooth fruit driven key. In sort, a wine to give some time to , and it will also age nicely for 8-10 years and perhaps more.
2 stars