Sangiovese Incontra Sangiovese: A meeting of Sangiovese Toscano and Sangiovese di Romagna

Mention Sangiovese and most wine lovers will think of Tuscany -- Sangiovese is after all the backbone of Tuscany's best known wines, including Chianti in its many guises, Brunello di Montalcino and Nobile di Montepulciano, as well as a host of lesser known (but not necessarily inferior) Tuscan wines including Carmignano, Morellino di Scansano, and Montecucco.

There is however another side to Sangiovese, and that is Sangiovese di Romagna: the wine is made grape in the valleys of the Appennini from eastern border of the Province of Bologna all the way to Rimini, where the vineyards overlook the sea. A great many wine lovers tend to look down their noses at this Sangiovese because they associate it with cooperatives that in the past were much, much more interested in cranking out quantity than quality, but what they don't know is that while the cooperatives were cranking out their volume, others were farming to considerably smaller yields, and their Sangiovese di Romagna was being selected for state banquets -- both Ronald Regan and Bill Clinton enjoyed it.

In short, quality Sangiovese di Romagna has a long history.

And Sangiovese di Romagna is associated with Tuscany in another way too: following the devastation brought by the phylloxera bug more than a century ago Angelo Sansoni, a Romagnan innestatore (grafter) known as Esciop, the gun, because of the quickness of his hands, replanted vineyard after vineyard in Romagna, and also worked extensively in both Chianti Rufina and Chianti Classico, planting cartload after cartload of Sangiovese vines he brought with him from Romagna.

This was of course several generations ago and by now has faded from memory. However, if the vines gave good results they, or cuttings propagated from them, are still there. In short, the pedigree of some of the finest Tuscan Sangiovese vines may not be as Tuscan as we think it is. Not that this means much; Sangiovese as a varietal is extremely sensitive to terroir, giving very different results in different settings, and what is growing well in Tuscany is doing justice to its terror.

We began with 6 Tuscan wines

Bibi Graetz Testamatta Rosso Toscana IGT 2007
From Fiesole
This is barrel fermented in upright barriques whose tops were removed. Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and slight almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with brash cherry fruit supported by some cedar and bright greenish accents, some graphite shavings bitterness, and as it opens licorice root On the palate it's fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by graphite shaving bitterness and a fair amount of cedar, with some savory underpinning. Quite concentrated, and quite international in style. If you like the style you will enjoy it, considerably, but you have to like the international style. Very young yet.
2 stars

Savignola Paolina Chainti Classico DOCG Riserva 2007
From Greve in Chianti
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted at first swish, though more brings up strawberry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and by some greenish heather and cut field in the summer, supported by fairly bright berry fruit acidity some sourness with as it opens old leather. . On the palate it's bright, and deft, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by fairly bright sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are slightly brambly, and have a slight burr, flowing into a clean slightly bitter cedar laced finish. Pleasant, in a bright traditional key, and a very fine food wine that will work wonders with a steak or roast. It will age nicely 3-6 years.
2 stars

Villa Vignamaggio Chianti Classico DOCG 2007
From Greve in Chianti
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit laced with licorice root and spice, also some menthol, slight carob, and some licorice root. Pleasant. On the palate it's bright, with rich plum cherry fruit supported by deft slightly mineral acidity, and by tannins that are smooth and fairly sweet, though they do gain definition from a slight burr, and flow into a clean bright brambly finish with some greenish vegetal accents. Quite pleasant, and will work very well with foods; it is also fairly young, and will age well for at least 5-8 years.
88-90

Castello di Monsanto Fabrizio Bianchi Sangiovese Rosso Toscana IGT 2006
From Barberino Val D'Elsa
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with brambly notes and fairly intense savory accents, and also slight animal tang; it's interesting and pleasingly savory in a decidedly traditional slightly rustic key. Pleasant. On the palate it's rich and full, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by savory notes and sour cherry acidity, while the tannins are quite smooth and flow into a fairly long slightly jammy sour cherry finish. Very pleasant, more on the palate than the nose, which is nice but a little less interesting. In its defense it is young, and this reticence is a characteristic of the vintage; it has great potential and if the nose follows the palate (as I expect it to) it will do great things, and age for 15-20 years.
90

Castello di Querceto La Corte Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT 2006
From Greve in Chianti
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit supported by mentholated accents and some spice, and also bramble with slight animal tang and underlying balsamic accents. Interesting in a pleasingly traditional key, though there is also some cedar to it. On the palate it's powerful, with rich cherry fruit supported by savory tannins that have a cedar laced underpinning, and flow into a clean rather tannic finish with a fair amount of cedar. It's powerful, and displays more cedar than I expected on the palate; the wine is fairly strongly oaked and a bit astringent, and this is a characteristic of the 2006 vintage in some wines. It has potential but needs time, 3-5 years, for the tannins to fold in and absorb the oak.
2 stars

Fattoria Selvapiana Chianti Rufina DOCG Riserva Bucerchiale 1996
From Rufina
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is deft and savory, with tamarind laced sour berry fruit supported by balsamic accents and some leaf tobacco, also brambles and warmth. Quite pleasant and beautifully mature. On the palate it's deft, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by savory accents and sea salt, and tannins that have a slight balsamic burr and flow into a clean sour cherry finish with a pleasant mineral underpinning. Very nice, and stands apart from all the other wines thanks to its age; time has been very good to it and it's one of those wines one meets with occasionally, and treasures when one does.
93

Next, wines from Romagna:

Romandiola Sangiovese di Romagna DOC 2010
From Coriano
The only wine of the tasting from a cooperative. Cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly fresh, with berry fruit and brambly accents, spice, some greenish notes, heather, some spice. Fresh. On the palate it's fairly bright, with graphite laced berry fruit supported by savory notes, some slightly cedary tannins, and a fairly savory finish with slight minerality. A classic food wine of the sort one sets out and drinks, and that will go quickly. Simple, direct, and up front. The sort of wine one can drink by the bucket. Distinct from all the others in terms of lively freshness and youth.
2 stars

Villa Venti Sangiovese di Romagna DOC Superiore Primo Segno 2008
From Roncofreddo
All in steel, no wood. Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense and rather balsamic with savory accents, spice, some sour berry fruit and some greenish accents. On the palate it's ample, and smooth, with fairly bright rather languid cherry fruit supported by dusky graphite laced tannins that flo9w into a clean bright rather mineral finish. Quite pleasant, and graceful in a slightly brooding dusky key, and will also age nicely. More mineral than acidity supporting it, and it is impressive.
2 stars

Podere la Berta Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore Riserva Olmatello 2008
From Brisighella
Podere la Berta has recently been purchased by the folks who also own Felsina, the Chianti estate in Castelnuovo Berardenga, and is overseen by Bernabei, who bottled this wine, which was made by the previous owners. Deep black almandine with black reflections, the bouquet is powerful and quite international, with rich vanilla and spice supporting menthol and hints of vics vapo-rub (sp?), and some savory notes. A lot of oak. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by savory cedar laced tannins and some sour cherry acidity, which flows into a long cedar laced finish. It's well made and clean but heavily oaked, and you have to like the style or it won't work for you. very long finish, slowly fades to savory notes.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Gallegati Sangiovese di Romagna DOC Superiore Riserva Corallo Nero 2006
From Faenza
This is from clayey soils; it was fermented in steel, and then 14 spent months in wood. Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with dusky black cherry aromas mingled with some cedar and some savory graphite shaving minerality with a fair amount of menthol and some spice. Nice balance. On the palate it's bright, with lively fresh cherry fruit supported by deft sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are slightly greenish, with a pleasant burr and flow into a clean bright finish. Scrappy, and while it isn't a wine you will want to drink far from the table unless you are a lover of the style, it will work very well with foods, and in that context go surprisingly fast.
88-90

Tenuta Pertinello Colli di Romagna Centrale Sangiovese DOC Pertinello 2008
From Galeata
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with lively sour berry fruit supported by greenish accents and some heather, also menthol and spice, and quite a bit of acidity that gives it considerable zest. On the palate it's ample, and quite smooth, with deft sour cherry fruit supported by clean bright sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are quite smooth and though they do have a slight greenish burr, are nicely defined and flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish with some brambly accents. It's quite deft, displaying considerable finesse, and is very pleasant to drink.
90

Castelluccio Ronco dei Ciliegi Rosso Forlì IGT 2007
From Modigliana
Castelluccio was established in the late 70s by Gianvittorio Baldi, a Roman film director whose family was from Modigliana. He was blessed with the vision to want to do something unprecedented with Sangiovese di Romagna, and the genius to know he couldn't do it himself, and therefore hired Remigio Bordini to be his agronomist, and Vittorio Fiore, who has since purchased the property, to make the wines. Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit supported by graphite shavings and some cedar, with some mineral acidity and by some sour berry fruit acidity as well. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by rather languid slightly bitter tannins that have wet leaf undertones, and by acidity that's more mineral than citric, and by moderate acidity, flowing into a rather bitter graphite shaving bitterness finish. Pleasant, in a rather different key -- it stands out from the others, in terms of minerality and wet leaves -- and will both age nicely and drink well in the short term with steaks or roasts. It's still climbing.
88-90

That's it. My impressions?

A number of colleagues remarked that the Romagnan wines showed quite well, and I wasn't surprised. By comparison with their Tuscan cousins they were for the most part lighter and slightly more agile, with acidities that were a little livelier. The Tuscan wines were instead more polished, with a touch more tannic structure, and a little bigger. They were all good.

It is important to note this was a partial tasting -- the Romagnan wines were carefully selected, and just a few parts of Tuscany were represented -- but it clearly showed that great wines can come from either region, and that wine lovers who are not familiar with the wines of Romagna have many exciting discoveries to make.

A Sant'Appiano Vertical, and Other Wines

I discovered Sant'Appiano, an estate in Barberino Val D'Elsa, in a roundabout way: Paolo Baracchino asked me to translate his notes from a vertical of Monteloro, the estate's 85-15% blend of Sangiovese and Colorino, and the wine sounded good. But I was working through my notes from the Tuscan Anteprime at the time, and let the matter rest. However, this April Valentina Paolini invited me to a Ferrari-Maserati meeting at Sant'Appiano.

An opportunity to look (longingly) at many Ferraris is something not to be missed, and after admiring the cars we had a fine lunch at the Osteria L'Antica Quercia, Sant'Appiano's restaurant (which included an excellent antipasto misto Toscano), and then there was a vertical of Monteloro. Which I enjoyed, so I arranged a second visit and drove over.

Sant'Appiano is both a medieval hamlet perched atop a hill overlooking much of the Valdelsa, with San Gimignano in the distance in one direction and Chianti Classico in another, and the estate, which Pierfrancesco Cappelli's grandfather Domenico bought from the Bordoni family in 1960. At the time it consisted of several poderi, or independent farms run by tenant farmers, and winemaking was a marginal aspect of the operation, which was dedicated primarily to seed crops. Though they still do grow wheat, and indeed have more hectares of fields than vineyards -- 120 in all, 17 planted to vine, 40 forested, and the remainder wheat fields and olive groves -- winemaking now plays a much more important role, with the cellars in the town of Sant'Appiano.

Pierfrancesco joined his grandfather on the farm in 1990. At the time Domenico also outsourced grapes, but in 1999 they decided to become independent, working only with what they grew themselves. Alas, he did not live to see the fruits of their labors -- he died in August -- but he left the farm in capable hands, and though Pierfrancesco confesses to having felt very nervous with that first vintage on his own, he needn't have. He had learned well.

The wines? We'll begin with the white, and finish with the vertical.

Sant'Appiano Cappelli Domenico Bianco di Toscana IGT 2008
This is a blend of Malvasia del Chianti, Trebbiano and Viognier, added to increase the aromatic complexity. It's pale brassy white with greenish reflections. The bouquet is delicate, with vinous accents mingled with minerality and some gunflint, also slight floral accents. On the palate it's light, and direct, with mineral acidity and some gunflint mingled with savory notes that flow into a clean savory finish. Simple, and direct, and will work well as a summer wine with quickly cooked lighter dishes, ranging from vegetarian pasta dishes through simple fish such as triglie alla livornese.
1 star

Sant'Appiano Secretum Rosè Toscana IGT 2008
This is the first vintage of this wine, which is a rosé from Sangiovese; the must rests on the skins for 4 hours, and then is pressed, chilled well and put in a tank where the solids settle, and then fermented with yeasts generally used for Chardonnay. It's onionskin-salmon with onionskin rim paling to pale yellow. The bouquet is rich, with sour berry fruit supported by some acidity and brambly accents, also dappled shade. On the palate it's fairly full, and lively, with bright brambly sour berry fruit supported by alcohol, greenish acidity, and some light, scrappy tannins that flow into a clean fresh brambly sour berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant, and will work very well with antipasti, for example mixed cold cuts and crostini, or with light pasta dishes (including meat sauces), and will be very nice at cookouts with grilled meats and such. Expect it to go quickly, and you will want a second bottle.
88-90

Sant'Appiano Secretum Rosé Toscana IGT 2009
This is a tank sample, and is a richer, lively pink more shifted towards ruby than onionskin, with white rim. The bouquet is muted -- it was just filtered -- though swishing brings up floral accents mingled with red berry fruit. Developing. On the palate it's bright, with rich raspberry cherry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and smooth light tannins that flow into a slightly greenish sour berry fruit finish. It's less brambly than the 2008, has slightly richer softer fruit, and is also a little longer on the palate. It will be quite nice and will be worth seeking out.

Sant'Appiano Chianti DOCG 2008
Sant'Appiano is Chianti tout court because they're in the area between the Chianti Colli Senesi and the Chianti Colli Fiorentini. This is 80% Sangiovese, and the remainder Canaiolo. Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by some brambly accents and hints of leather, and some spice from grapes. On the palate it's scrappy, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by leathery accents and bitter leaf tobacco, with some gunpowder too, and by tannins that have a fairly dry burr, and flow into a clean rather bitter finish with some graphite shaving accents. It's a hard, stony wine -- not quite hard as nails, but not soft, and needs another year to get its bearings; it's very much a food wine that will work quite well with rich pasta dishes, for example pasta with sugo alla Bolognese, or hearty stews. I wouldn't drink it by the glass. In short, it's about austerity, and keeps its distance.
2 stars

Sant'Appiano Chianti DOCG 2009
The 2008 was the last vintage of Chainti with Canaiolo; Pierfrancesco knew that it wasn't the most approachable of wines, and (taking the advice of his sales representatives) decided to replace the Canaiolo with Merlot to make the wine more appealing to the general public. A tanks sample of the 2009 is deep cherry ruby with violet reflections -- there's more violet to it than in the 2008, and this is the Merlot. The bouquet is closed, because it had just been filtered when I visited, though swishing brings up berry fruit supported by some currants and deft gunflint acidity. On the palate it's ample and fairly smooth, with rich slightly sour cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a slight burr, but are very very young, and by deft sour berry fruit acidity that flows into a clean fresh berry fruit finish with some underlying bitterness. It's approachable, but displays considerable character too; the tannins aren't as polished as those of some wines with a healthy Merlot component, and it will be quite approachable in a food wine key. In short, though I generally don't approve of the addition of International varietals, here the ploy has worked, and well.

Sant'Appiano Chainti Superiore
This is Sangiovese in purezza. The 2004 is a selection from the older vineyards around Cottaccio, one of the estate's poderi. They are began to replant their vineyards in 1999 (and are planting some new vineyards), and with time the wine will come from the newer vineyards. Depending upon the vintage, this wine spends 8-10 months in barriques.

Sant'Appiano Cottaccio Chianti Superiore DOCG 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is dusky, with brooding berry fruit supported by slight balsamic savory notes and warmth, with deft slightly mineral acidity as well. Nice balance. and graceful in a fairly ethereal key. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich berry fruit that has a decidedly mineral underpinning, supported by smooth tannins that have dusky pencil shaving bitterness, and flow into a clean mineral finish with pleasant savory accents. Quite nice, and will drink well with grilled meats or roasts; it's more particular than many Chianti wines, with the minerality that comes from the terrain providing a distinctive personality, and it's a wine that you will either like or not. I did.
88

Sant'Appiano Cottaccio Chianti Superiore DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and some almandine rims. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit supported by some brambly accents and slight balsamic acidity with underlying green leather. Pleasant, in a slightly brooding key, and this is in part the vintage, which was cooler and wetter than many. On the palate it's deft, with fairly rich bitter berry fruit supported by pencil shaving bitterness and smooth tannins that have a dusky bitter component, and flows into a clean fairly long bitter berry fruit finish. Pleasant in a cool weather key, the fruit has a brooding character to it that also draws from the minerality of the terrain. It's a nice expression of the vintage -- no attempt to compensate for the cooler vintage key -- and will work well with grilled meats or roasts.
2 stars

Sant'Appiano Cottaccio Chianti Superiore DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and lively ruby rim. The bouquet is fresh, with sour red berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and some balsamic notes, also minerality and slight menthol. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by fairly rich mineral acidity with some leathery accents, and by tannins that have a slight burr to them, and flow into a clean fairly tannic finish with underlying bitterness. Pleasant in a traditional key, and quite mineral, with fairly cheeky fruit; it will drink well with grilled meats or roasts, and is a wine to seek out if you like the style, which is fairly aggressive, with scrappy tannins that have considerable backbone. If you instead prefer smoother softer wines it won't work as well for you.
88-90

Sant'Appiano S'A IGT Toscana 2007
This is the first vintage of a Syrah, from a vineyard planted in 2000. It's impenetrable pyrope with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy berry fruit laced with underbrush, earthy wet leaves, and spice. On the palate it's quite mineral, with moderate sour berry fruit supported by dusky gunflint minerality, leafy underbrush, and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean dusky finish with dried leaves and leathery accents, also some minerality. It's a stony wine, minerality in a glass, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. But you have to like the style. In terms of accompaniments, succulent red meats will likely be the best bet.
2 stars

Sant'Appiano S'A IGT Toscana 2008
Tank sample. Impenetrable pyrope with black cherry reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up some berry fruit with wet leaves and leafy acidity -- classic Syrah aromas. By comparison with the 2007 it is richer, and this is both the vintage and the greater maturity of the vineyard. On the palate it's fairly rich, with cherry fruit laced with underbrush and supported by underbrush acidity, and by fairly smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean dusky finish with underbrush and minerality. It's a distinct step up with respect to the 2007, and though it needs time - the bottle has yet to work its magic -- promises quite well.

And Now, The Vertical:

Monteloro started out in 1999 as an 85-15 Sangiovese-Colorino blend, fermented in an upright cask, aged in barriques for about a year, and in bottle for another year prior to release. Over the years they have adjusted the blend, adding 5% Merlot at the expense of Colorino in 2003 and 2004, and 5% Tintoretto, a traditional varietal, in 2005.

Sant'Appiano Monteloro Toscano IGT 1999
Deep black cherry ruby with almandine reflections and slightly orange ruby rim. The bouquet is intense, with berry and brandied cherry fruit laced with some balsam and slight leathery accents, and hints of burlap with some India ink as well, and minerality too, with hints of starch. On the palate it's rich, with powerful cherry fruit supported by minerality and deft mineral acidity with some wet bark accents, and by tannins that have a slightly savory burr and flow into a long clean rather dusky finish with underlying bitterness. Quite pleasant, and though mature has a long life ahead of it; the sad part is that there are just a few bottles left because Pierfrancesco, who didn't have many dealings with wine writers at the time, didn't think to set more aside when he made it. It's the sort of wine that will bring great joy to a table set with a porterhouse steak.
92

Sant'Appiano Monteloro Toscano IGT 2000
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry ruby rim fading to orange; there's a little less garnet than in the 99. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some jammy berry fruit supported by warmth and slight mentholated accents; it comes across as a bit softer than the 99. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich jammy berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by smooth tannins that have slight greenish brambly notes, and flow into a clean fairly sour finish. Pleasant, and a welcome surprise, because the wine isn't cooked -- something that happened with many 2000 vintage wines -- and also doesn't display signs of arrested ripening, another problem that afflicted the 2000 vintage in many cases. It's a wine that will drink nicely with succulent roasts, for example leg of lamb, and would also be nice with hearty stews.
88-90

Why the vines weathered the torrid 2000 August: Sant'Appiano's terrains are loose at the surface, but the substrate, calcareous tuffs, holds moisture well, which means that the vines are much less likely drought stress when it's hot and dry.

Sant'Appiano Monteloro Toscano IGT 2001
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim paling towards orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, and entering maturity, with leaf tobacco and savory acidity mingled with some spice and underlying berry fruit, savory notes, hints of quinine and India ink bitterness, also graphite shavings, and some burlap. Nice balance. On the palate it's medium bodied, and bright, with fairly rich rather balsamic savory berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean rather green leaf tobacco-graphite shaving bitterness finish with underlying savory notes that gradually take over as the other things fade. Pleasant, and pleasingly mature, with considerable depth and will drink well with grilled meats or roasts, especially things such as leg of lamb, and will be a very fine food wine. Because of the greenish accents of the tannins I wouldn't drink it by the glass, but with food, where it will shine very well. Something well worth seeking out, if you like wines that have a degree of aggressiveness and backbone.
88-90

Sant'Appiano Monteloro Toscano IGT 2002
Deep black almandine with bloack reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and clearly from a cooler vintage, with dried leaves and bitterness mingled with some saddle leather and wet salty tea leaves mingled with hardwood ash. Pleasant, though very much in a lesser vintage key; by comparison with the 2001 it's considerably less fresh, and this is to be expected in a wine from the 2002 vintage, given the rains and cool temperatures. On the palate it's ample, with distinctly bitter accents supported by some savory berry fruit and decidedly brambly bitter acidity, and by tannins that are decidedly splintery and very bitter, flow into a clean bitter savory finish. It's quite typical of a cool vintage, but also displays a pleasing grace and will work well with foods, though I wouldn't drink it by the glass, It's something for wine lovers more than casual wine drinkers, and if you are interested in this sort of wine you will enjoy it. But you have to like the style. In short, for an informed consumer, and those who like this sort of wine will find it has much to say. I was quite favorably impressed.
2 stars

Sant'Appiano Monteloro Toscano IGT 2003
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with warmth and alcohol mingled with warm slightly jammy cherry fruit supported by some greenish accents, and clean menthol and some cedar as well. Nice depth, and though it's from a hot vintage it's not cooked, and this is a very nice thing by comparison with many 2003 Tuscan wines. On the palate it's ample and comparatively soft, with fairly rich decidedly sour bitter mineral cherry fruit supported by dusky bitterness and moderate mineral acidity, and by tannins that are smoother and softer than those of the 2002, and flow into a decidedly bitter finish that settles into considerable dryness with leathery accents and continues at length. It's a nice expression of the vintage, and successful; they managed to avoid the overripeness that is so common in the 2003 vintage, and consequently the wine doesn't have that heaviness that so many 2003 vintage wines display. It will be quite nice with foods.
2 stars

Sant'Appiano Monteloro Toscano IGT 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with jammy berry prune fruit supported by some menthol, slight sweetness, and by dusky greenish acidity, with a fair amount of vinous warmth as well. Much more powerful than the 2003. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by graceful berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have fairly intense bitter graphite shaving accents that flow into a clean bitter graphite shaving finish with some brandied cherry accents and hints of licorice root and sea salt -- and a fair amount of alcohol too, that gives an impression of sweetness. It's powerful, and brooding, a wine that demands attention in a rather garrulous way at the outset, though it does settle as it opens, and that will drink quite well with rich meat dishes, ranging from stewed game through leg of lamb. It's particular, and if you like fairly aggressive slightly greenish wines you will enjoy it, but you have to like the style. We're far removed from the smoother softer Merlot-based international-style wines here. And I'm not complaining.
90-92

Sant'Appiano Monteloro Toscano IGT 2005
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fresh and rich, with bright jammy berry fruit laced with candied cherries and some bramble, with hay and prune fruit supported by some greenish vegetal spice, and hints of wet leather that add depth. Pleasant, and a step up from many wines of the 2005 vintage, which was overall cool and rainy. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rich slightly jammy berry fruit with underlying prunes supported by tannins that are fairly smooth, though they have slight dusky splintery accents, and by dusky acidity that flow into a clean fairly rich slight savory finish with some bitter pencil shaving overtones, that extends at length, gradually settling from prune cherry fruit to savory tannic notes. The finish is a little thin, and this is an effect of the 2005 vintage, which was cool and wet, and therefore has fruit that is less ripe, but is impressive and will drink quite well with grilled meats or hearty stews. It will also age nicely for 5-8 years.
90

Sant'Appiano Monteloro Toscano IGT 2006
This is a barrel sample. Deep black almandine with black reflections and some almandine in the irm. The bouquet is deft, with vinous accents and berry fruit supported by savory spice, and though it's obviously developing is promising. On the palate it's ample and rich, with elegant cherry prune fruit supported by moderately intense savory slightly balsamic mineral acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that are softer and more polished than those of some of the older vintages, and this is the 2006 vintage at work. It will be very pleasant, and worth seeking out, especially if your tastes are more traditional, though even a modernist will find things to smile over, especially if the wine is accompanied by a steak.

Bottom Line:
I enjoyed Sant'Appiano's wines. They provide excellent expressions of their terroir -- they are more mineral than fruit driven, and this is because of the soils -- and have quite a bit to say. Pierfrancesco and his collaborators, the agronomist Giovanni Capponi and the consulting enologist Marco Mazzarrini are doing a fine job.

Curious about Sant'Appiano? They have a nice site, which also includes a section devoted to the Osteria and their Agriturismo, which consists of 8 apartments in the hamlet, and would be an excellent base for exploring central Tuscany.

An Overview of Badia A Coltibuono

Badia a Coltibuono, one of the historic estates of Chianti Classico, recently held a vintage presentation in Florence. I will be writing further about the estate shortly -- they will be presenting a Vertical at Vinitaly-- but wanted to give my impressions of the current vintage.

The wines:

Badia A Coltibuono Chianti Classico DOCG 2007
Lively ruby with pale rim fading to white. The bouquet is bright and fresh, with lively berry fruit -- cherry and some red currant -- supported by bramble and spice, with hints of gum Arabic and underbrush, and fresh acidity; with swishing the gum Arabic fades to reveal jammy accents. Pleasant, and very, very young, but then again it is a 2007. On the palate it's fresh, with lively cherry fruit supported by moderate brambly acidity and brambly tannins that flow into a clean scrappy tannic finish. Quite deft, a food wine that will work well with simple grilled meats, light stews, and also has the acidity necessary to work well with fried meats and vegetables. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars

Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Lively cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with cherry fruit and some savory spice, and underlying underbrush and hints of sea salt. Nice balance, and with more swishing hints of dried porcini mushrooms and sundried tomatoes also emerge. Pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's medium bodied, and smooth, with fresh berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and dusky bitterness that flows into a clean bitter tannic finish. It's rounder than the 07, and this is not just grater age -- the 07 is scrappier and more aggressive. The 06 is quite easy to drink -- the Italian that comes to mind is beverino, which is quaffable -- and it will work well with simple grilled meats or light stews. A second bottle will come in handy.
2 stars

Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2006
Lively cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by berry fruit jam and some brandied cherries, as well as green spice from wood. Nice, though still displays the directness of youth, and is still developing. On the palate it's ample, with fresh cherry fruit supported by clean tannic spice and some sea salt, which leads into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Pleasant, and though it needs another year or two to get its bearings, it will drink nicely with stews or roasts; it's one of those wines that probably won't stand out at a tasting, but that people will select it to drink with the meal that follows. Expect it to age nicely for up to a decade.
2 stars

Badia a Coltibuono Sangioveto IGT Toscana 2006
Deep cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with brandied cherry fruit supported by underbrush and some cedar, with underlying peppery spice. On the palate it's ample, and smooth, with moderately rich berry fruit supported by slight acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a delicate cherry finish. Ruffiano (a street urchin) is the Italian word that comes to mind; it's quite approachable in a softer more international key, and if you like the style you may want to drink it by the glass. If you're more traditionally minded you'll prefer the Riserva.
2 stars

Badia a Coltibuono Vinsanto del Chianti Classico DOCG 2003
Tawny amber with apricot reflections. Delightful bouquet, with rich dried dates mingled with hints of figs, walnut rinds (in June, when they're green), sticky brown sugar, alcohol, and hints of oatmeal, supported by apricot acidity, while a fellow taster finds (correctly) cocoa powder.. In short, a great lot going on and an absolute delight to sniff. On the palate it's languorously full, with deft date and dried apricot fruit supported by dried apricot acidity and rich walnut skin bitterness that flow into a bitter walnut and dried fruit finish that lasts and lasts, with the sweetness gradually fading. Quite pleasant, and if you're not already a vinsanto fan it will convert you.
90-91

Bottom line: Pleasant, very approachable wines that will do a fine job of complementing what they're served with. For more information on Badia a Coltibuono, visit their site: http://www.coltibuono.com

Castello San Donato in Perano: A New (?) Winery in Chianti

Castello di San Donato in Perano is of course anything but new -- the castle, which is in the Comune of Gaiole, was built a thousand years ago, and is surrounded by 60 hectares of vineyards that were owned and farmed by Castello di Meleto until 2004.

The Castello has now changed hands, and the new owners have ambitious plans to increase quality and (with time) production. They recently organized a tasting in Florence, and I came away quite impressed.

The Wines:

Castello San Donato in Perano IGT Bianco del Castello 2007
In making this, after harvesting the grapes they frose them to extract more aromas, and then barrel fermented the wine. It's a work in progress that they are still adjusting, but I found it interesting. Pale brassy gold, with a fairly rich bouquet with tropical fruit and some butterscotch. Quite international. On the palate it's fairly full, and languid, with ample tropical fruit supported by considerable mineral bitterness that flows into a clean bitter mineral finish. Pleasant in a very international key, and though I found it a bit obvious on the palate (the nose is more interesting), it will drink nicely as an aperitif or with cheese or fish-based antipasti.
1 star

Castello San Donato in Perano Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
This is the second vintage entirely under the new ownership. Deep ruby with black reflections. Bright bouquet with fresh, lively cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit and red currant acidity. Inviting. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright red berry fruit supported by tannins that have a clean bitter underpinning, and lead into a slightly tart bitter finish. Graceful and lithe; it's light on its feet and quite pleasant to drink -- perfect with meat-based antipasti and pasta dishes, simple grilled meats, and light stews. Worth seeking out, and the bottle will go quickly.
2 stars

Castello San Donato in Perano Chianti Classico 2005
This is the transitional vintage, from the old to the new ownership, and shows that the new people were getting their bearings: it's deeper ruby, and shows greater wood influence that settles the wine, while leaving a greenish cedar imprint upon the palate. They prefer the 2006 to the 2005, and plan to continue the path they've begun with the 06. In particular, they only use medium to large wood for their red wines -- no small oak barrels.

Castello San Donato in Perano Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit and some bitterness mingled with hardwood ash and greenish vegetal notes. Nice balance, from a weaker year. On the palate it's ample, with moderately rich berry fruit supported by minerality and some savory notes, while the tannins are brambly and flow into a bitter finish. It displays some of the same problems displayed by the 05 Chianti -- a transitional wine, and I'm quite curious about what the 06 Riserva will be like.
1 star

Castello San Donato in Perano IGT Rosso Toscana Merlot 2005
This is, as the name suggests, a Merlot in Purezza, and is made in limited quantities -- 5000 bottles for this vintage. It's deep pigeon blood ruby with ruby rim, and has a fairly rich bouquet with black currant fruit laced with cedar and some spice. Nice balance between oak and fruit; the fruit isn't too rich, but it is a pleasant expression of the 2005 vintage. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich clean black currant fruit supported by deft acidity and well polished, smooth tannins that flow into a clean cedar-laced black currant finish. It's distinctly international in style, quite approachable, and will drink well with drier grilled meats or roasts.
2 stars

Castello San Donato in Perano Dolce del Castello IGT Bianco Toscana 2007
This is a blend of Semillon and Pinot Bianco, and is lively brassy gold with golden reflections, and has a fresh rich bouquet with plumped white raisins and brown sugar mingling with caramel and hints of oatmeal, but not much acidity. On the palate it's fairly rich, and moderately sweet, with raisin fruit supported more by mineral bitterness than acidity, and it flows into a clean finish in which bitterness gradually takes sway. Distinctive, and a marked change of pace with respect to Vinsanto. If you like this kind of wine you will find it interesting.
2 stars

Bottom Line: Something New, And Interesting, from Gaiole in Chianti!
Want to know More? Their Site.

Notes from the 2008 Chianti Classico Anteprima

Chianti Classico's Anteprima, or Vintage Presentation, was held February 19 and 20 2008. As is always the case at these events, the number of wines presented was much greater than I could properly address in the time allotted, so in tasting I picked and chose, selecting some wines because I'm familiar with the winery and wanted to see what they've done this time, some because someone was whispering admiringly about them, and some because the name of the winery (or the wine) caught my eye.

Chianti Classico is an especially serious offender in this regard -- the table the sommeliers took their samples from looked to be about a hundred yards long, and it was solid bottles. On the other hand, Chianti Classico is a big appellation, and it was very nice to see the variety of wines available: 2006, 2005, 2004, and 2003 Chianti Classico D'Annata, and 2006, 2005, 2004, 2003, and 2001 Chianti Classico Riserva, for a total of 316 wines. Actually doing something with all that variety in the 2 days we had is another matter, and I decided to concentrate on the vini d'Annata, or vintage wines, the wines that are, in theory, made to be set out and enjoyed upon release or shortly thereafter. Not quite quaffing wines, but certainly not the sort of thing one sets aside to return to and meditate over years later.

Unlike some appellations, which encourage producers to release their wines after a set time, Chianti Classico allows quite a bit of leeway, producers who prefer a younger, fresher style can release their wines the spring of the year following the vinification (2006 in this case), while those who prefer a more mature style can hold the wines longer -- many opt for 2 years (releasing 2005s this time) and some wait even longer.

I was pleasantly impressed by the 2006 vintage: it was a nice summer, and this translated well into the grapes, which produced wines that are quite drinkable, with nice balance and pleasant richness of fruit backed up by good structure. As a group they tend to be nimble on their feet, and even though some are rather tannic, they have sufficient fruit to balance the tannic richness, and are bolstered by bright acidities that again keep the wines on their toes. Quite nice, and I found myself scoring them highly; they'll also drink very well with foods, everything from hearty minestrone and ribollita through red sauced pasta dishes and on to grilled meats and light stews. In short, versatile, and if you have friends over don't be surprised if the bottle empties long before you get to dessert.

The rich frutiness of the 2006 also bodes well for the 2006 Chianti d'Annata that will be released next year, and the 2006 Riserve now in barrel and cask.

The 2005 Chianti D'Annata released this year didn't fare as well. Last year I summed up the vintage, which was wet and cold, with the word "tart," adding that many of the young wines had a certain brambly grace to them. Alas, many of the wines that spent another year awaiting release emerged considerably dulled, with the fruit faded in intensity and brightness, and the tannins clearly drawing from oak, which steps in to help the fruit along in a way that would be unnecessary in a better vintage. As is always the case there were some exceptions (brilliant ones, even) to this dreary picture, but when buying wines of the 2005 vintage you'll have to be much more careful than you will when buying the 2006 vintage.

Or those of the 2004 vintage: it was good last year (and 2 years ago) and continues to be quite nice now, with the bottles presented this year displaying considerable poise and grace. It was, and continues to be a vintage well worth looking out for, and I also greatly enjoyed the few Chianti Classico Riserva 2004 wines I tasted.


The wines, roughly in the order I tasted them, in late February 2008
As always, I comment upon barrel samples but do not score them because they are works in progress, and not complete wines.

Agricoltori del Chianti Geografico
Località Mulinaccio 10
53013 Gaiole in Chianti (SI)
http://www.chiantigeografico.it

Agricoltori del Chianti Geografico Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Barrel Sample
Deep ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is rich for a barrel sample, with bright cherry fruit supported by clean dusky overtones and hints of underbrush. On the palate it's ample, with clean fairly rich cherry fruit that's supported by rather dry slightly oaky tannins that overpower the fruit to a degree, and it all flows into a clean rather dry finish. It's very young, and has yet to digest its tannic meal. I expect it to be pleasant in a middle of the road key.

Agricoltori del Chianti Geografico Contessa di Radda Chianti Classico DOCG 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by clean spice and vinous underpinning, laced with a fair amount of acidity. On the palate it's medium bodied, and bright, with clean cherry fruit supported by deft cherry acidity that flows into a clean berry fruit finish. Quick to write, and pleasant to drink, though it's not one of those wines that will grab you and demand your undivided attention. Rather, it will go nicely with foods, and you'll suddenly realize the bottle is gone. Not a bad feat, that.
2 stars

Antico Borgo di Sugame
Via Convertoie 14
50022 Greve in Chianti (FI)
http://www.borgo-di-sugame.com

Antico Borgo di Sugame Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, and brambly, with clean berry fruit supported by slightly greenish acidity. Zesty. On the palate it's light, with bright cherry fruit supported by greenish brambly tannins that flow into a clean rather vegetal finish with underlying bitterness. It's quite simple, and will drink well with red sauced pasta dishes, quickly cooked meats and similar. If you like this slightly rustic style you will enjoy it. If you prefer smoother softer wines it may not work for you.
1 star

Badia a Coltibuono
Località Badia a Coltibuono
53013 Gaiole in Chianti (SI)
http://www.coltibuono.com

Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fresh, with cherry fruit supported by some brambles and underlying slightly peppery spice from grapes; as it opens hints of graphite also emerge. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by clean bright acidity that leads into a clean, slightly bitter sour finish. Zesty, in a cheeky sort of key, and will drink well with red sauced pasta dishes, quickly cooked grilled meats, including fattier fare such as sausages, and because of its bracing acidity will also be nice with fried meats and vegetables. Expect the bottle to go quickly, and it will be perfect in the proper setting if you like this rather zesty style.
1 star

Badia a Coltibuono RS Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by clean sour cherry acidity and some brambly accents, with underlying vegetal notes that add depth. On the palate it's medium bodied, and quite smooth, with bright slightly sour cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins, while definition and direction come from sour cherry acidity with slight lemony accents that floe into a clean tart finish. It's graceful, in a willowy zesty key, and will drink nicely with red sauced pasta dishes and, light stews, and simple green meats. A nice choice when you want to drink a wine that doesn't demand intense concentration, and you can expect the bottle to go quickly.
2 stars

Badia a Coltibuono Cultus Boni Chianti Classico DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with moderate berry fruit supported by cedar and some dusky underbrush supported by cherry plum fruit and fairly brash peppery acidity. On the palate it's full and smooth, with jammy berry fruit supported by clean sweet cedar laced tannins, while direction comes from clean slightly sour acidity, and it all flows into a clean fairly bitter finish with tannic underpinning. It's direct, in an up-front sort of way, and will drink nicely with succulent red meats or stews, and will also age nicely for 3-5 years.
2 stars

Barone Ricasoli
Cantine del Castello di Brolio
53013 Gaiole in Chianti (SI)
http://www.ricasoli.it

Barone Ricasoli Brolio Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and ruby rim. The bouquet is dusky and intense, with rich slightly jammy berry fruit supported by clean spice and some underlying cedar. Brooding. On the palate it's ample, and quite smooth, with fairly powerful cherry fruit supported by clean smooth tannins that have a pronounced cedar laced bitter undercurrent, and flow into a clean moderately long bitter finish. There isn't as much acidity as there is in some of the other wines, and it works more as a balance of bitterness and fruit; it is also quite young and needs another year to completely integrate the tannins into the wine. Because of its relative shortness it will work better with drier meats, either white or red, than it might with something more succulent.
1 star

Barone Ricasoli Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico DOCG 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, with elegant balsam-laced berry fruit supported by clean slightly greenish acidity and underlying spice, with a fair amount of vinous alcohol as well. On the palate it's full, and quite smooth, with powerful cherry fruit that gains direction from pleasant cherry-forest berry fruit acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Graceful, and will drink nicely with red meats, ranging from roasts through stews and grilled meats. Expect the bottle to go quickly; worth seeking out.
2 stars

Bibbiano
Via Bibbiano 76
53011 Castellina in Chianti
http://www.tenutadibibbiano.com

Bibbiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by some brambly acidity and hints of irises as well. Fresh, in a cheeky, smiling sort of way, and pleasant too, rather like a smiling teen. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright slightly sour cherry fruit supported by clean brambly tannins that have warm greenish undertones, and flow into a clean sour cherry finish with tannic underpinning. It's young, in a graceful sort of way, and will drink nicely with grilled meats or light stews, and will also become gracefully ethereal with time, as the tannins fold into the wine. But I would be tempted to drink it now to enjoy its freshness. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Bibbiano Montornello Chianti Classico DOCG 2005
Barrel sample
Black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is closed, though this is quite normal for a barrel sample; with more swishing some vinous notes and alcohol emerge. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly soft berry fruit supported by clean citric acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean warm berry fruit finish. Pleasant, in a middle of the road key, and thouh it's not really tight I found myself nodding and thinking it will drink nicely with foods. I'd have liked a little better definition, but the vintage is also at work here.

Bibbiano Vigna del Palannino Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with rich cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and clean vegetal accents with underlying alcohol and spice. Quite elegant, with a lot going on. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful cherry and forest berry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and clean sweet tannins that flow into a clean deft berry fruit finish with cedar underpinning. It's quite pleasant, and will drink well with succulent stews or roasts now, though it also has the capacity to age well for many years. The sort of wine one hates to pour out at a tasting.
2 stars

Carpineto
Località Dudda 17/B
50022 Greve in Chianti
http://www.carpineto.com

Carpineto Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, in a brambly sort of way, with moderate berry fruit and some underlying acidity. On the palate it's light, with bright sour berry fruit supported by brambly tannins that flow into a slightly splintery bitter finish. It's direct, in a fairly simple key, and will drink well with lesser grilled meats or light stews. I found myself wanting a bit more fruit than I found -- it's rather dry -- and would drink it sooner than later.
1 star

Casa Emma
S.P. Castellina in Chianti Località Cortine 3/5/7
50021 Barberino Val D'Elsa (FI)
http://www.casaemma.com

Casa Emma Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, with bitter berry fruit supported by some vegetal acidity and underlying peppery spice. A nice lot going on, and fairly harmonious too. On the palate it's medium bodied, ample and smooth, with bright cherry fruit supported by clean slightly sour berry fruit acidity that has some red currant overtones, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean sour fruit laced finish with lasing acidic warmth. Graceful, and I have the impression that the nose is a bit behind the body; it needs another 6-8 months to develop, and will then be quite nice with simple grilled meats or light stews. Indeed, perfect in the proper setting, and worth seeking out.
2 stars

Poderi Castellare di Castellina
Località Castellare
Castellina in Chianti (Siena) 53011
http://www.castellare.it

Castellare di Castellina Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is rich, and quite fresh, with a rush of violets and underlying red berry fruit supported by some brambly accents. Inviting and invigorating. On the palate it's light, with bright slightly sour cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a greenish angular Sangiovese burr and flow into a clean bitter finish; it's a touch less rich than I might have liked, but this is also youth at work, because the tannins are still doing their own thing off in left field, and it will be a few more months before they join the rest of the wine. In terms of accompaniments, it will work well with lesser grilled meats or light stews.
1 star

Castelli del Grevepesa
Via Gabbiano 34
50024 Mercatale Val di Pesa (FI)
http://www.castellidelgrevepesa.it

Castelli del Grevepesa Clemente VII Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is deft, with moderately bright berry fruit supported by a mixture of violets and slightly greenish vegetal accents that add pleasing depth. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit that grains pleasing direction from sour cherry acidity, while the tannins that a warm slightly splintery burr and flow into a clean slightly bitter sour tannic fruit finish. Pleasant, in a fresh, easy to drink key, and will contribute nicely to simple grilled meats or light stews. Expect the bottle to go quickly.
2 stars

Castelli del Grevepesa Castelgreve Lessenziale Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bitter, with some greenish accents mingled with graphite, mingled with red berry fruit and some peppery overtones. On the palate it's medium bodied, with frankly generic red berry fruit supported by smooth tannins that have a bitter cedary undercurrent and flow into a clean slightly bitter finish. To be quite frank I found it nondescript; there's nothing terribly wrong with it, but it didn't grab me either. In terms of accompaniments, slight stews or grilled meats.
1 star

Castellinuzza e Piuca
Via Petriolo 21/A
50022 Greve in Chianti (FI)
http://www.castellinuzzaepiuca.it

Castellinuzza e Piuca Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, with fresh cherry fruit supported by slightly green cherry acidity; the effect is cheeky in a bright smiling sort of way, and brought a smile. On the palate it's light, with pleasing sour cherry fruit supported by deft cherry and lemon acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight greenish Sangiovese burr, and flow into a warm clean tart berry fruit finish. Graceful, in a light key, and will drink very well with simple grilled meats, ranging from poultry through ribs (not too spicy), and also has the acidity necessary to balance fried foods. Expect the bottle to go quite quickly, and you will likely want another. Worth seeking out.
88-90

Castellinuzza e Piuca Chianti Classico DOCG 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is elegant, with cherry fruit supported by clean mentholated acidity and pleasant greenish accents. Quick to write, but quite harmonious, and I found myself nodding as I sniffed. On the palate it's ample, and rich, with powerful cherry fruit supported by clean slightly thin greenish acidity and smooth tannins that have a slight greenish cast, and flow into a clean slightly greenish finish. With respect to the 2006 it's leaner, and this is an effect of the vintage, which was a bit thinner.
2 stars

Caparsa
C.S. Caparsa 47
53017 Radda in Chianti (IS)
http://www.caparsa.it

Caparsa Doccio a Matteo Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Barrel sample
Deep pyrope ruby with violet rim. The bouquet is promising for a barrel sample, with bitter accents and rather brooding red berry fruit with underlying graphite shavings. Promising in a very youthful key. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful red berry fruit supported by tannins that have strong cedary underpinning, and flow into a clean dry finish. It's very much a barrel sample, hard as nails, but promises to develop quite nicely, and could well be towering upon release.

Caparsa Doccio a Matteo Chianti Classico DOCG 2005
Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by spice and some bitter iodine accents. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by clean bitter accents that go their own way, while the rest flows into a clean bitter finish. It's discordant, and needs a bit of time to come together, because at present the various pieces are all going in different directions. It's less together than the 96.

Castello Di Fonterutoli
Via Ottone III, 5
Località Fonterutoli
I-53011 Castellina in Chianti (Si)
http://www.fonterutoli.it/default_eng.htm

Castello di Fonterutoli Fonterutoli Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is smoky, with clean peppery spice and hints of cedar, more than with fruit; it gives an impression of being in mid stride but I'm not sure where it's headed. On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with soft cherry plum fruit supported by very smooth tannins that flow into a clean cherry plum finish with underlying tannic support coupled with warm sour berry fruit acidity that provides direction. It somehow brings to mind a 20's siren lying languidly on a couch, giving a lazy come-hither look. Very international in style, and far into the smooth and soft, and if you like this style you will enjoy it very much. But you have to like this style. If you're more traditionally minded it won't work for you.
2 stars

Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico DOCG 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with some almandine reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, in a rather greenish cast, with berry fruit mingled with mentholated acidity and some hardwood ash. Bright, and clearly from a cooler year. On the palate it's full, with rather languid cherry plum fruit supported by clean slightly greenish citric acidity and by tannins that are rather splintery, and flow into a clean greenish finish with tannic underpinning. It's pleasant, though obviously from a lesser year, and will drink nicely with grilled meats or light stews; I think it will do interesting things over time, perhaps becoming lacy in 3-5 years.
2 stars

Castello di Querceto
Dudda 50020 Lucolena
Greve in Chianti Firenze
http://www.castello-querceto.it/

Castello di Querceto Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Lively black cherry ruby with black cherry reflections. The bouquet is bright, with herbal and vegetal accents supported by some greenish notes and petroleum, which is a bit unusual in a red but works nicely, and by moderate berry fruit. On the palate it's ample and clean, with fairly bright cherry fruit supported by dusky cherry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight burr to them, and flow into a clean slightly bitter finish. It's very young, and the nose is in mid-stride, with at least one foot in the air. In other words, it needs another 6-8 months at least to come together and develop, at which point it will be pleasant in a fairly traditional key, and drink nicely with roasts or stews. I think it will be worth seeking out, but it's not there yet.
2 stars

Castello di San Donato in Perano
Località San Donato in Perano
53013 Gaiole in Chianti (IS)
http://www.castellosandonato.it

Castello di San Donato in Perano Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright berry fruit supported by sweet berry fruit jam that gains direction from a little lemon zest and some violets. Promising for a barrel sample, and very young in a rather voluptuous key. On the palate it's ample and bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by clean bitter accents and sour cherry acidity, while the tannins are smooth and a bit more splintery than I expected form the nose, and it flows into a rich tart finish with berry fruit and slight hints of sweetness. It promises to be pleasant in a rather rich middle of the road key, and is the sort of wine that will go quickly

Castello di San Donato in Perano Chianti Classico DOCG 2005
Fairly bright cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is powerful, and green, with herbal and vegetal accents supported by underlying rather tart bitterness. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with moderately rich sour cherry fruit supported by clean citric/cherry acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean moderately tart finish with tannic underpinning. I'd have liked a little more depth than I found, but it is fairly graceful in a rather dusky key, and though I would have liked greater brightness to the nose this is the vintage at work: it will drink nicely with simple grilled meats or light stews. Expect it to age nicely, becoming rather ethereal with time.
2 stars

Borgo Scopeto
Località Scopeto
530101 Vagliagli (SI)
http://www.borgoscopeto.com

Borgo Scopeto Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with cherry and forest berry fruit supported by some underlying bitterness and pleasing bitter accents. It's pleasantly tight, and promises well, though a fellow taster says it's too polished for a barrel sample. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with rich cherry fruit supported by clean berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean soft finish that gains direction from lasting warmth and berry fruit acidity. It's quite graceful, and if they succeed in transferring all this into the bottle it will be quite nice and be worth seeking out. Something to keep an eye out for.

Castello di Verrazzano
Località Verrazzano
50022 Greve in Chianti (FI)
http://www.verrazzano.com

Castello di Verrazzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Impenetrable black cherry ruby with dusky ruby rim. The bouquet is powerful and brooding, with a great rush of cedar mingled with vanilla laced spice that opens to reveal fairly sweet, almost jammy cherry and forest berry fruit. Quite international in style. On the palate it's ample and smooth,with frankly languid berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a considerable bitter cedar component from oak, and flow into a clean bitter finish. It's voluptuous, of the starlet in a glass variety, and quite nice if you like the big, soft, fruit driven wines of the modern style that were perhaps more common a few years ago than they are now. If you are more traditional in taste, you will perhaps not like it as much, though it does offer food for thought even among the traditionally minded. Worth seeking out if you like the style.
2 stars

Castello di Volpaia
Località Volpaia
53017 Radda in Chianti (SI)
http://www.volpaia.com

Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Barrel sample
Black cherry ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and powerfully disjointed, with a great rush of cedar that covers most everything. Barrel samples can be like this. On the palate it's ample and bright, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by cedar laced tannins that flow into a fairly savory finish, and the interplay is mostly between bitterness and fruit. It needs time, and is frankly too young to judge.

Castello di Vicchiomaggio
Via Vicchiomaggio 4
50022 Greve in Chianti (FI)
http://www.vicchiomaggio.it

Castello di Vicchiomaggio Montevasco Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up some greenish accents mingled with berry fruit that gains in intensity as the wine opens. Pleasant. On the palate it's bright, with clean lively cherry fruit that gains direction from bright deft citric acidity, while the tannins are clean with a slightly greenish splintery burr that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish with depth from acidity and tannic support. Quite graceful though very young, and promises well for the future; one could enjoy it very much with grilled meats or light stews now, or even fried meats and vegetables or keep it for longer, by which time it will be rather lacy. Expect the bottle to go quickly, and you will want another. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Cecchi
Loc. Casina dei Ponti, 56
53011 Castellina in Chianti (SI)
http://www.cecchi.net/en/home.asp

Cecchi Messer Pietro di Teuzzo Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar and some airy spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by bitter accents more than acidity, while the tannins are smooth and cedar laced. I'd have liked more acidity to keep the wine on it's toes, because it comes across as a bit settled. In any case, it will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews.
1 star

Collelungo
Località Collelungo
53011 Castellina in Chianti
http://www.collelungo.com

Collelungo Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, and frankly oaky, with considerable fairly sweet cedar blended into ripe cherry fruit that has jammy overtones, and some bitter accents. Very international, and very young. On the palate it's ample, and bright, with rich cherry fruit supported by clean sour cherry acidity, while the tannins are clean and sweet, with a slight greenish burr. The palate is much more mature than the nose, and if the nose follows it the end result will be quite pleasant in a smooth but not voluptuous international key. In other words, even if you're a traditionalist by nature you will find things to enjoy here. Worth seeking out to enjoy with a succulent steak or roast.
88-90

Concadoro
Località Concadoro 67
53011 Castellina in Chianti (SI)
http://www.aziendaconcadoro.it

Concadoro Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with youthful cherry fruit that has some concord grape overtones that are laced with petroleum and some spice. A bit unusual, but harmonious overall. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately rich generic berry fruit supported more by bitterness than acidity, which flows into a clean bitter finish. I found it a bit dry, and would have been happy to find more fruit than I did.
1 star

Concadoro Vigna di Gaversa Chianti Classico DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy berry fruit that gains direction from some sour citric acidity and is supported by warm greenish accents and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's ample, with bright red berry fruit supported by clean sweet citric acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm clean finish. It's quite graceful, and one would never guess it was from the hot dry 2003 vintage if one didn't read the label; it will drink quite well with succulent red meats off the grill or out of the oven, and will also age nicely for 5-8 years. If you like the more traditional style it's well worth seeking out, and even if you prefer the "modern" style you will enjoy it, because it will offer much to think about as it accompanies your meal.
88

Dievole
Via Dievole 6
53019 Vagliagli (IS)
http://www.dievole.it

Dievole La Vendemmia Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with moderate fruit and some bitter accents, but not much in the way of fruit. A barrel sample. On the palate it's ample, smooth, and soft, with full rich cherry fruit supported by smooth soft tannins and delicate sour cherry/citric acidity that flows into a clean berry fruit finish. Pleasant, in a muscular, well thewed key, and will drink well with stews or roasts. If you like this more muscular -- there's nothing light about it -- style you will enjoy it.
Wanting to score it, a solid 2 stars

Dievole La Vendemmia Chianti Classico DOCG 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents supported by wet leaves and underbrush, with some savory accents as well and underlying spice. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense rather bitter berry fruit that gains direction from some mineral acidity, and is supported by clean slightly splintery tannins that have a metallic feel to them, and flow into a clean bitter finish with some tart savory overtones. It's a child of the vintage; this said, it will drink well with simple grilled meats.
1 star

Fattoria di Cinciano
Località Cinciano 2
53036 Poggibonsi
http://www.cinciano.it

Fattoria di Cinciano Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is bright, with lively brambly red berry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and sea salt overtones; it's quite zesty in a very keyed up sort of way. On the palate it's bright, with rich cherry fruit supported by clean sour cherry fruit acidity and smooth slightly greenish tannins that flow into a long clean fruit finish that gains definition from bitter accents and warm acidity. Quite pleasant, a food wine that will drink well with succulent red meats or light stews, and I would also be tempted to bring it to a cookout with rich grilled meats. Expect the bottle to go quickly. Worth seeking out if you like a fairly aggressive, rather scrappy style.
2 stars

Fattoria di Petroio
Via di Moceni 7
53010 Querciagrossa (SI)
http://www.fattoriapetroio.it

Fattoria di Petroio Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, in a relatively soft key, with cherry fruit supported by dusky spice and some greenish vegetal notes that gain depth from slight berry fruit acidity. On the palate it's moderately intense, with clean bright berry fruit supported by fairly intense brambly tannins that flow into a warm bitter finish with some underbrush and spicy bitter notes. The oak is fairly intense, and overshadows the fruit, at least at present; it's quite young, and needs at least a year to get its bearings. This said, if you want to drink it now, because of its angry peppery bitterness it will drink well with succulent red meats or light stews.
1 star

Fattoria la Ripa
P.O. Box, 1
50020 S. Donato in Poggio
http://www.laripa.it

Fattoria La Ripa Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, in a rather haunting cast, with red berry fruit supported by bitter accents and cedar, with powerful vinous overtones as well. On the palate it's ample, and bitter, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by moderate citric acidity, and to a greater degree by tannins that have a strong bitter underpinning and flow into a clean bitter finish. It gives an impression of being in mid stride, and at the outset of a rather long journey as well. Put simply, it needs time, at least a year and perhaps more, by which time it will be rather graceful in a lacy key. It will drink nicely with succulent red meats, for example stewed game or roast leg of lamb, and will do interesting things with time. Demanding, and not (at least now) something one can open and toss back. If you like the more traditional style, you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Fattoria La Ripa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with greenish herbal notes mingled with spice, balsam, and savory accents. Quite a bit going on, in a fairly austere key. On the palate it's full, with fairly intense red berry fruit supported by clean warm berry fruit acidity and by ample smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean berry fruit finish that has some bitter cocoa underpinning. It's not quite as deft as I expected on the palate, and this is likely a factor of relative youth; it feels like things are still coming together and falling into place. I would give it another year or two, during which time I think it will improve markedly, and then drink it with a porterhouse steak.
2 stars

Fattoria San Giusto a Rentennano
Località San Giusto a Rentennano
53013 Gaiole in Chianti (IS)
http://www.fattoriasangiusto.it

Fattoria San Giusto a Rentennano Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, and fairly sweet, with cherry fruit supported by jammy accents and spice. Pleasant for a barrel sample. On the palate it's promising, with ample smooth fairly rich cherry fruit supported by moderately intense cherry acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean berry fruit finish. Pleasant, in a fairly up front direct key, and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews.

Fattoria Viticcio
Via San Crescis 12/a
50022 Greve in Chianti (FI)
http://www.fattoriaviticcio.com

Fattoria Viticcio Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is young, with fairly rich slightly cooked berry fruit supported by nose tingling spice and hints of hot iron, with underlying cedar. It's up in the air, though I think that when it lands it will be fairly international in style. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with dusky cherry plum fruit supported by bitter tannic accents and fairly dry tannins that flow into a long bitter finish with some walnut skin tannic overtones. It's oddly dried and I found it to be rather settled.
1 star

Felsina
Via del Chianti 101
53019 Castelnuovo Berardenga (SI)
http://www.felsina.it

Felsina Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Black almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with peppery cedar laced accents mingled with red berry fruit and underlying vinous warmth. Harmonious, though not really bright. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by clean savory citric acidity and tannins that have a warm slightly greenish burr, and flow into a clean fairly bitter finish. It's not a wine that will stand out at a tasting, but it has a certain rather lean grace to it, and will drink nicely with simple grilled meats -- including poultry -- or light stews, and will also be nice with fried meats and vegetables. With time, expect it to become rather ethereal, but I would drink it sooner than then.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Fontodi
50020 Panzano in Chianti
http://www.fontodi.com/

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is powerful and smoky, with a rush of bitter walnut skins. It's badly up in the air. The palate is much better, though still clearly a work in progress, with rich cherry fruit supported by clean slightly sour cherry acidity and by tannins that have a youthful splintery burr to them. It's like looking at a half-finished canvas; there's enough that (with knowledge of the artist) one can say it will be nice, worth seeking out, even, but it's much too soon to judge it.

I Fabbri
Via Casole 52
Località Lamole
50022 Greve in Chianti (FI)
http://www.agricolafabbri.it

I Fabbri Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy cherry plum fruit supported by clean vegetal accents. Bracing, and pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's bright, with clean rich berry fruit supported by clean sour cherry acidity, and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean sour cherry finish with savory accents. Pleasing, in a light zesty way, and will drink quite nicely with simple grilled meats or light stews, while it also has the acidity necessary to stand up to fried meats and vegetables. I found it growing upon me. Expect the bottle to go quickly, and you may want another.
2 stars

I Fabbri Chianti Classico DOCG 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, in a rather haunting herbal way, with powerful greenish accents and hints of petroleum laced with cedar, and underlying red berry fruit that is overshadowed by the other things going on. On the palate it's ample, and fairly soft, with moderately rich cherry fruit supported by soft sweet tannins that do have splintery overtones, and by moderate berry fruit acidity that flows into a clean sour finish. It's settled, and this is the vintage at work; it will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews.
1 star

Il Mandorlo
Via Certaldese 2/b
50026 San Casciano Val di Pesa (FI)
http://www.il-mandorlo.it

Il Mandorlo Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Barrel sample
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is out of whack, with considerable vanilla and hardwood ash; with swishing berry fruit also emerges, but it remains unsettled. On the palate it's promising, with fairly bright cherry fruit supported by clean citric acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean berry fruit finish. Promising, and if it follows the path being blazed by the palate will be quite graceful when it all comes together. Worth seeking out, even, in a lighter fresh key.

Isole e Olena
Località Isole 1
50021 Barberino Val D'Elsa (FI)
http://www.isoleolena.it

Isole e Olena Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Barrel sample
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing does bring out some berry fruit mingled with slight brambles. On the palate it's bright, with rich fresh berry fruit supported by clean sweet tannins, while the underlying acidity is graceful, and flows into a clean smooth finish. Quite promising, and will be worth keeping an eye out for when it is bottled.

La Madonnina
Via Palaia 39
50027 Strada in Chianti
http://www.triacca.com

La Madonnina Bello Stento Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with cherry fruit supported by clean spice and some brambly acidity that gain depth from some underbrush and hints of truffles as well. On the palate it's bright, in a delicate fresh key, with fairly powerful cherry fruit supported by clean bright sour cherry acidity, while the tannins are smooth and slightly greenish, with brambly accents. Pleasant, in a light, fairly zesty key, and will drink well with simple red meats off the grill, or with hearty meat-based pasta dishes. If you like more studied, smoother wines it won't work as well for you, but if you like a scrappier, zestier style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Mannucci Droandi
Località Starda
53013 Gaiole in Chianti (IS)
http://www.mannuccidroandi.com

Mannucci Droandi Ceppeto Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Barrel sample
Black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by clean brambly accents and penetrating spice. On the palate it's bright, almost voluptuous, with rich smooth cherry fruit that gains direction from deft raspberry acidity, while the tannins, which work from below the surface, are smooth and sweet, and flow into a clean tart finish. Pleasant, in a bright up front key, and will drink well with quickly cooked meats or light stews. Expect the bottle to go quickly in the proper setting.

Mannucci Droandi Ceppeto Chianti Classico DOCG 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, with (at the outset) unusual wood fruit interaction that brings cola to mind, and this is a factor of youth; with swishing this fades and clean slightly greenish cherry fruit emerges to greet the world, supported by some acidity. On the palate it's clean, with moderately intense cherry and plum fruit supported by clean mineral acidity and glancing tannins that flow into a clean fairly direct finish with bitter undertones. It's fairly direct and clearly the child of a lesser vintage. This said, it will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews.
1 star

Montecalvi
Via di Citilie 85
50022 Greve in Chianti (FI)
http://www.montecalvi.com

Montecalvi Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry fruit supported by intense brambly acidity and fairly lively vegetal notes as well, which bring artichokes to mind. Bracing, in a very zesty way. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and smooth sweet tannins that have a bitter underpinning, and flow into a clean bitter finish. I'd have liked greater depth to the wine and also more acidity, because it doesn't have as much direction as I might have liked. Not quite floundering, but not as focused as the nose suggested it could be.
1 star

Monteraponi
Località Monteraponi
53017 Radda in Chianti (SI)
http://www.monteraponi.it

Monteraponi Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is a bit behind, with fairly rich brambly bf supported by nose tingling spice, and gives an impression of being in mid stride. On the palate it's bright, with rich cherry fruit supported by lively sour cherry acidity and by tannins that are still slightly splintery, but promise to smooth nicely, and flow into a clean deft sour cherry finish. It's quite graceful in a rich traditional key, and though it needs time badly -- it's not ready to drink as of today -- it will be quite nice in a traditional key, one of those wines that might not wow at a tasting, but that will be one of the fist to go in the dinner that follows the tasting. If you like the traditional style, it's well worth seeking out. But do give it time to develop, at least a year and perhaps 2.
2 stars

Gagliole
Località Gagliole 42
53011 Castellina in Chianti (SI)
http://www.gagliole.com

Gagliole Rubiolo Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, and fresh, with powerful violets mingled with bf and slight greenish accents, and underlying peppery spice. It's like sniffing a flower basket, and quite refreshing. On the palate it's bright, in a fairly light key, with pleasant sour cherry fruit supported by clean bitter brambly acidity that's also fairly greenish, and lfows into a clean brambly tannic finish. It's not a wine to drink by the glass, but will drink quite well with foods, including fried meats and vegetables. In the proper setting (and in a cookout it would be nice) it will go very fast. Worth seeking out if you like this fresh fairly traditional style, and I would drink it now to enjoy its freshness.
2 stars

Castello di Monsanto
Via Monsanto 8
50021 Barberino Val D'Elsa (FI)
http://www.castellodimonsanto.it

Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is elegant, though a touch overripe, with plums and spice mingled with berry fruit. Nice for a barrel sample. On the palate it's clean and bright, with graceful cherry fruit supported by bright slightly mineral cherry acidity and smooth sweet tannins that have underlying peppery notes. It's quite pleasant, and will develop very well, becoming quite graceful as it matures in the bottle. It will be worth seeking out and do beautiful things with grilled meats or roasts.

Piccini
Località Piazzole
53011 Castellina in Chianti
http://www.tenutapiccini.it

Piccini Solco Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish cherry fruit supported by some underlying spice. Fairly direct, and I'd have liked a little more fruit. On the palate it's clean and soft, with ample sour cherry fruit supported by moderate sour cherry acidity and clean fairly sweet tannins. It's direct, and will drink well with simple foods, but I would have liked more depth than I found.
1 star

Poggiopiano
Via Pisignano 28/30
50026 San Casciano Val di Pesa (FI)
Tel 055 822 9629

Poggiopiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Barrel sample
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly well developed for a barrel sample, with cherry fruit supported by some bitter accents. On the palate it's full, and fairly rich, with powerful cherry plum fruit that gains direction from bright plum acidity, and is supported by very smooth sweet tannins that work from below the surface, as it were. You will enjoy it if you like softer fruit driven wines in an international key.

Poggiopiano La Tradizione Chianti Classico DOCG 2005
Barrel sample
Inky pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is charged, with a fair amount of cedar, and this is something one can find in a barrel sample. On the palate it's powerful, with very smooth cherry plum fruit that gains direction from clean plum-mineral acidity, while the tannins are quite smooth, though full, and flow into a clean slightly sour berry fruit plum finish. It will be quite elegant in a brooding international key, and if you like smoother, powerful wines you will like it very much. Indeed, it will be worth seeking out.

Le Corti
Via San Piero di Sotto, 1
50026 San Casciano Val di Pesa
http://www.principecorsini.com

Principe Corsini Le Corti Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Barrel sample
Deep cherry ruby. The nose is shut tight, and this is fine with a barrel sample. On the palate it's bright, with clean cherry fruit supported by lively cherry acidity and supported by clean sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly tart finish. It's less oaky than previous vintages, at least at present, and if it follows this path into the bottle will be quite pleasant in a more traditional key than I have found in the past with Principe Corsini's wines, something that I (for one) look at with favor. I'd expect it to drink quite well with succulent red meats, either out of the oven, off the grill, or stewed.

Principe Corsini Le Corti Don Tommaso Chianti Classico DOCG 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and lively cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, and frankly oaky, with quite a bit of cedar mingled with bitter accents, but not much fruit -- what there is is hidden under the youthful oak that overshadows all. On the palate it's ample, and fairly rich, with the fullness again coming largely from oak, though there is a certain deftness to it, because it's sweet, not bitter; the fruit present is cherry with forest berry fruit overtones and gains depth from some citric overtones, and emerges nicely in the finish. It's very young, and frankly needs time, at least a year, before the various components come together into a unified whole. It's also quite international, and if you like this heavily oaked style you will enjoy it, because it's deftly done, respecting the relative weakness of the fruit. But you have to like the style.
2 stars

Querceto di Castellina
Località Querceto 9
53011 Castellina in Chianti (SI)
http://www.querceto.com

Querceto di Castellina L'Aura Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Barrel sample
The nose is smoky, with hardwood ash and some penetrating spice. Not much fruit, but this is a barrel sample. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by sour red currant acidity and bright slightly greenish tannins that flow into a fairly tart finish. If it holds into the bottle, it will be pleasant in a light, fairly scrappy key. If you like the style it will be worth seeking out.

Querceto di Castellina L'Aura Chianti Classico DOCG 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is eye opening, with rich violets supported by some vanilla and peppery spice. It's like sniffing a flower basket, and there's something languid about it. On the palate it's full and soft, with ample cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and slight acidity, while there is also unusual, and unexpected sweetness that emerges in the finish, which also has some cocoa overtones. It's frankly atypical for Chianti, and as such is, I think, a child of the vintage. If you enjoy ample, smooth, soft fruit driven wines whose fruit is more plum than the brighter berry fruit you will enjoy it, but it is particular.
1 star

Querciabella
Via di Barbiano 17
50022 Greve in Chianti (FI)
http://www.querciabella.com

Querciabella Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, with brambly bf supported by some greenish savory accents and underlying slightly greenish accents. On the palate it's medium bodied, and fairly green, with the acidity carrying much more than the fruit, while the tannins are slightly greenish, and brambly. I'd have liked greater richness and smoothness than I found, at least now -- it's very young, an still quite unsettled, with splintery tannins (from wood?) sticking out at odd angles.
1 star

Ruffino
Marketing and PR: Tenuta Poggio Casciano
Via Poggio al Mandorlo 1
50011 Quarate di Bagno a Ripoli
http://www.ruffino.com/

Ruffino Santedame Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up spice mingled with some berry fruit with underlying citric acidity that opens rather nicely. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by greenish cherry acidity, while the tannins that hold it together have a youthful splintery burr and flow into a clean rather sour cherry fruit finish. It's pleasant, in a rather aggressive greenish key, and will drink well with foods -- succulent grilled meats through fried foods -- though it's not a wine I would want to drink by the glass far from the table.
2 stars

San Fabiano Calcinaia
Località Cellole
53011 Castellina in Chianti
http://www.sanfabianocalcinaia.com

San Fabiano Calcinaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet delicate, with cherry supported by bright citric acidity and peppery spice. Pleasant, in a very young, rather zesty key. On the palate it's full, with bright cherry fruit that gains direction from clean bitter acidity, and is supported by ample smooth tannins that flow into a clean rather bitter finish that gains definition from greenish tannic underpinning. It's a food wine that will drink well with rich pasta dishes or succulent cuts of meat, and will age nicely with time, becoming ethereal.
2 stars

San Felice
Località San Felice
53019 Castelnuovo Berardenga (SI)
http://www.agricolasanfelice.it

San Felice Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up some bitter accents. On the palate it's pleasant, with bright cherry fruit supported by clean rather graceful cherry acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly sour cherry fruit finish. Pleasant, and will drink well with foods: if they transfer the barrel into the bottle as is, it will be quite nice.

Spadaio e Piecorto
Via San Silvestro 1
50021 Barberino Val D'Elsa
Tel 055 807 2915

Spadaio e Piecorto Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright cherry fruit supported by nose tingling acidity and spice. Very young, and one-dimensional at present. On the palate it's soft, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity and greenish tannins that flow into a clean slightly savory finish. I'd have liked greater depth than I found.
1 star

Tenimenti Angelini - San Leonino
Località I Cipressi
53011 Castellina in Chianti (SI)
http://www.tenimentiangelini.it

Tenimenti Angelini San Leonino Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is a bit overripe, with cherry plum fruit supported by hints of gum Arabic and penetrating, nose tingling acidity. Very young, but I don't know if the acidity will fold in with time or not. On the palate it's ample and soft, with overripe cherry plum fruit that has unusual brown sugar overtones supported by smooth tannins that have a slight burr to the, It's not really off, but I found the sweetness in the finish a bit odd.
1 star

Tenuta di Lilliano
Località Lilliano 8
53011 Castellina in Chianti (SI)
http://www.lilliano.com

Tenuta di Lilliano Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright cherry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and pleasing underlying spice; there's something haunting about the mix. On the palate it's full and bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by clean slightly greenish acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh ch finish that gains direction from lasting citric acidity. Pleasant, in a clean rather fresh zesty key, and will drink nicely with succulent grilled meats or light stews. If you like studiedly smooth wines it won't work for you because there's a bit more acidity to it, but if you like this style it is pleasant, and will drink quite well with foods. Worth seeking out if you like the style.
2 stars

Terrabianca
San Fedele a Paterno
53017 Radda in Chianti
http://www.terrabianca.com/index.html

Terrabianca Scassino Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with somewhat overripe cherry plum fruit supported by clean spice and underlying savory accents, with some underbrush and greenish notes as well. On the palate it's ample and soft, with bright cherry fruit that gains direction from clean slightly tart citric acidity and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish that is (again) supported by brisk acidity. Pleasant, and will drink nicely with roasts or stews; it needs another year for the bouquet to catch up with the palate, but will be worth waiting for.
2 stars

Villa Vignamaggio
Via Petriolo 5
50022 Greve in Chianti
http://www.vignamaggio.com/

Vignamaggio Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, with cherry fruit supported by deft vegetal accents and come citrus acidity that keeps it all on its tows. On the palate it's elegant, with rich cherry fruit supported by clean deft cherry acidity and smooth sweet tannins that have a slight Sangiovese burr and flow into a clean fresh cherry finish that's fairly long. It's graceful, in a delicate and rather understated way, and also still falling into place, but I found myself enjoying it considerably. It's more of a food wine than a wine to drink far from the table; drink it with succulent red meats or light stews, and you can expect the bottle to go quickly.
2 stars

Villa Cafaggio
Via San Martino in Cecione 5
50020 Panzano in Chianti (FI)
http://www.villacafaggio.it

Villa Cafaggio Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, and young, with bright cherry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and nose-tingling peppery spice that gain depth from underlying brambly acidity. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with clean rich cherry fruit that gains direction from slightly greenish acidity, while the tannins are clean and rather dusty. It's in mid stride, but should clean up nicely in a middle of the road key, and will drink well with foods, in particular succulent grilled meats or hearty stews. Expect the bottle to go quickly, and you may well want another. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Villa del Cigliano
Via Cigliano 17
50026 San Casciano Val di pesa
http://www.villadelcigliano.it

Villa del Cigliano Cigliano Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with greenish citric fruit and bright berry fruit supported by clean underlying citric acidity. Considerable depth. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by clean lemony acidity that flows into a clean deft slightly tannic finish. Young, but quite graceful, and will drink very well with succulent grilled meats hearty stews, and will develop nicely over the next 3-5 years. Worth seeking out if you like this rather youthful style.
2 stars

Villa del Cigliano Cigliano Chianti Classico DOCG 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, n a greenish key, with vegetal accents and some underbrush mingled with cedar-laced spice. Harmonious, in a cool weather key. On the palate it's fairly light, with wan, rather bitter cherry fruit that gains depth from sour cherry acidity and flows into a clean slightly sour finish, while the tannins are moderately pronounced and fairly bitter. It feels dilute, and this is the vintage; it will in any case drink well with succulent meats or light stews.
1 star

Villa di Geggiano
Via Geggiano 1
Località Pianella
53019 Castelnuovo Berardenga (SI)
http://www.villadigeggiano.com

Villa di Geggiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, with cedar and some spice mingled with clean berry fruit. Pleasant for a barrel sample. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright rich cherry fruit supported by clean sour berry fruit acidity and some underlying bitter tannic underpinning that flows into a clean bright finish. It's promising, and will be worth looking out for, I think, if you prefer wines in the more traditional style.

Villa di Geggiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is delicate, with red berry fruit mingled with some greenish spice and deft acidity; it gives an impression of being in mid stride. On the palate it's ample, with fairly intense slightly sour cherry and forest berry fruit supported by moderately intense slightly mineral acidity, and by tannins that are smooth and glancing, and flow into a clean fairly bitter finish. It's quite traditional, and will drink nicely with succulent grilled meats or light stews. Worth seeking out if you like this style, and even if you prefer the studied smoothness of wines aged in small oak you'll find things to contemplate here. I would enjoy it with a platter of mixed grilled meats.
88-90

Villa di Geggiano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and ruby rim. The bouquet is bright and deft , with brambly berry fruit supported by clean slightly greenish acidity, and though this is quick to write it's also quite harmonious in a traditional key, and invites a second sniff. On the palate it's ample, with bright cherry fruit that gains direction form moderately intense cherry and forest berry fruit acidity, while the tannins are fairly smooth, though they do display a slight burr that carries into a clean bitter tannic finish. Pleasant, and quite young, in a traditional key; it will drink very well with foods, and be about perfect with a platter of mixed grilled meats. If you like the more traditional style you will like it very much.
2 stars

Villa Mangiacane
Via Faltignano 4
50026 San Casciano in Val di Pesa
http://www.mangiacane.it

Villa Mangiacane Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Barrel sample
Deep cherry ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, with some acidity and cedary accents. On the palate it's pleasant, though a bit more oaky at present than I might like, with clan berry fruit supporting the wood rather than the other way around; it's pleasant, and promises to work its way into a fairly international style.

Villa Mangiacane Chianti Classico DOCG 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with cherry fruit laced with smoke and spice, and supported by intense cedar; there's something dusky and brooding about it. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by pleasing sour cherry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly sour cherry finish. It is obviously from a wet vintage -- there's a leanness to it that richer vintages don't have -- but I found myself enjoying it; I would give the nose a year to develop and drink it with grilled or roasted red meats.
2 stars

Casaloste
Via Montagliari, 32
50020 Panzano
http://www.casaloste.com

Casaloste Chianti Classico DOCG 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with clean red berry fruit supported by moderate citric acidity. On the palate it's ample with bright cherry fruit supported by greenish citric acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly sour berry fruit finish that continues at length, gradually fading. It's more acidic than many, and this is typical of the winery, but if you like the style, which is fairly brash, it will drink quite well with succulent grilled meats or roasts, and also with hearty stews. But you do have to like the style.
2 stars

Castello di Cacchiano
53010 Monti in Chianti
Tel: 0577 747 018

Castello di Cacchiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2005
Lively cherry ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, with rather haunting greenish accents mingled with red berry fruit and some vegetal accents. On the palate it's ample and rather bitter, with moderate berry fruit supported by clean mineral acidity and savory accents that flow into a clean fairly dry tannic finish. Quite deft, though there isn't as much richness to the fruit as one finds in better vintages. It does in any case display considerable finesse, and if you like the more traditional style it is very nice. In a lesser key, but nice, one of those wines that some people (me, at least) think at length about.
2 stars

Castello di Meleto
Località Meleto
53013 Gaiole in Chianti (Siena)
http://www.castellomeleto.it

Castello di Meleto Pieve di Spaltenna Chianti Classico DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately rich, with haunting greenish accents mingled with red berry fruit and some mentholated spice. Pleasant. On the palate it's fairly full, with moderately intense cherry and forest berry fruit supported by clean slightly greenish acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly greenish berry fruit finish. It's fairly direct, but graceful, and will drink nicely with foods though I wouldn't open it far from the table. A child of the vintage, but a nice child.
2 stars

Castello di Meleto Chianti Classico DOCG 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is more fresh than I expected for a 2005, with violets and spice mingled with dusky berry fruit and bitter undertones that increase in intensity as the wine opens, while some citric, almost grapefruit acidity emerges. On the palate it's ample, and fairly soft, with sweetish forest berry fruit that gains direction from moderate raspberry acidity, while the tannins, which work from below the surface, are smooth and soft, and it all flows into a fairly long warm finish. It's lax,, and feels like it has settled and spread, somehow.
1 star

Castello di Monastero
Località Petroio 30
53017 Radda in Chianti (SI)
http://www.castellodimonastero.com

Castello di Monastero Chianti Classico DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is delicate, with savory accents and some greenish overtones, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate cherry fruit supported by greenish cherry acidity and moderately intense smooth tannins that flow into a clean slightly green tannic finish. It's fairly direct, with moderate fruit, and very much a child of the vintage. Drink it with simple grilled meats or light stews.
1 star

Villa Calcinaia
Via Citille, 84
50022 Greve in Chianti
http://www.villacalcinaia.it

Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and distinctly balsamic, with warmth and slight barnyard tang mingled with underlying acidity, but not much fruit. Old style. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense rather leathery cherry fruit supported by warm balsamic acidity that has savory accents, and by smooth sweet tannins that do have splintery overtones, and all flows into a clean rather bitter finish. It's very traditional in style, and also a bit rustic, and if you like the style you will like it, and it will work well with simple grilled mats or light stews. Indeed, in the proper setting it will drink very fast. However, if you prefer riper, richer, more fruit driven wines it won't work for you.
1 star

Castello Di Ama
Località Ama
53013 Gaiole in Chianti
http://www.castellodiama.com/

Castello di Ama Chianti Classico DOCG 2005
Deep ruby with black reflections and ruby rim. The bouquet is powerful and elegant, with rich cherry fruit supported by clean slightly brambly cherry acidity with underlying heather and jammy accents, and some spice as well. Quite harmonious in a vibrantly fresh youthful key. On the palate it's full ad rich, with powerful cherry fruit supported by deft cherry acidity that is supported by slightly greenish tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. Quite graceful, and all the more impressive considering how cold it was and how much it rained in 2005. It will drink beautifully now with rich grilled meats -- a porterhouse cut would be good here -- and will also age nicely for at least 3-5 years. Worth seeking out.
92

Castello di San Sano
Località Palazzino - San Sano
53013 Gaiole in Chianti (SI)
http://www.castellosansano.com

Castello di San Sano Chianti Classico DOCG 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some sour berry fruit supported by greenish accents and some spice, with underlying cedar as well. On the palate it's fairly full, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a splintery greenness to them, and by moderate fairly mineral acidity that leads into a clean slightly green finish. It feels oddly empty, and brings to mind a thin man wearing a coat several sizes too large.
1 star

Fattoria di Corsignano
Località Corsignano
53010 Vagliagli (SI)
http://www.fattoriadicorsignano.it

Fattoria di Corsignano Chianti Classico DOCG 2005
Black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is dusky, with bitter accents, and brooding berry fruit, with some underlying cedar as well. On the palate it's medium bodied, and a bit thin, with bitter berry fruit supported by mineral acidity tannins that have bitter accents that bring underbrush to mind, and flow into a clean bitter finish with dusky vegetal accents. It's a bit thin, but will drink nicely with simple grilled meats or light stews; I found it growing upon me because it's quite frank in its approach. What you see is what you get, without any really obvious attempts to compensate for Nature's stinginess, and as a result what comes through is authentic and drinkable, albeit in a lesser key.
2 stars

Fattoria di Corsignano Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is still a bit up in the air; swishing brings forth dusky berry fruit supported by clean vegetal spice and tart accents. It's on the move but hasn't arrived yet. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by clean sour cherry acidity and slightly greenish splintery tannins that flow into a warm clean tart berry fruit finish. Pleasant, in an up-front way, and will drink nicely with succulent grilled meats, including sausages or ribs, and also has the acidity necessary to stand up to fried meats and vegetables. In short, a nice summer wine that will also contribute considerably to a cookout.
2 stars

Fattoria di Montecchio
Via Montecchio 4
50020 San Donato in Poggio (FI)
http://www.fattoriamontecchio.it

Fattoria di Montecchio Chianti Classico DOCG 2005
Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. It's a bit stinky, but this is to be expected in barrel samples, with underbrush as well, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full, and quite soft, with moderately intense rather generic berry fruit supported by slight acidity and tannins that are both smooth and cedar laced, flowing into a clean soft finish. It's lax now, and lacking in fruit. Time will tell.

Fattoria di Montecchio Chianti Classico DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The nose is a bit more mature than some, with balsamic notes mingled with petroleum and underlying greenish spice. Not that much fruit, however. On the palate it's ample and a bit soft, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by sour cherry plum acidity, and by smooth tannins that have a slight greenish burr to them, and flow into a clean bitter finish. It's a bit settled, and I found myself wanting greater richness and depth.
1 star

Fattoria di Vegi
53011 Castellina in Chianti (SI)
http://www.vegi.it

Fattoria di Vegi Chianti Classico DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is dusky, with bitter balsamic accents and some mineral acidity but not much fruit. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggests, though still fairly lax, with soft cherry raspberry fruit that's nicely supported by raspberry acidity, and by ample tannins that have a slight splintery burr to them, and flow into a clean tart finish. I liked it better on the palate than the nose, but also found it empty; the tannins ad structure are larger than the fruit they hope to contain, and as a result the wine is rather cavernous. It will, in any case, drink well with light stews or simple grilled meats.
1 star

Fattoria Ispoli
Via Santa Lucia 2
50024 Mercatale Val di Pesa (FI)
http://www.fattoriaispoli.com

Fattoria Ispoli Chianti Classico DOCG 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by greenish jammy accents that bring pepper jam to mind, as well as underlying spice and slight greenish accents. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by clean bitter tannins that flow into a decidedly tannic, fairly bitter finish. What's missing is acidity; as a result the wine feels quite flat, and distinctly settled.
1 star

Le Fonti
Località Le Fonti
50020 Panzano in Chianti (FI)
http://www.fattorialefonti.it

Fattoria Le Fonti Chianti Classico DOCG 2005
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is powerful, with quite a bit of alcohol and some nose tingling spice, but not much fruit, and the effect is rather lumbering. On the palate it's ample, and soft, with moderate red berry fruit supported by fairly smooth tannins that do have a slight burr to them, but not much in the way of acidity; as a result it feels rather settled, and slightly dilute as well. In short, a child of the vintage.
1 star

Fattoria Nittardi
Località Nittardi
53011 Castellina in Chianti (SI)
Tel 0577 740 269

Fattoria Nittardi Casanuova di Nittardi Chianti Classico DOCG 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense and rather greenish, with petroleum accents mingled into dusky shadow and some nose tingling barnyard tang, but not much in the way of fruit. On the palate it's a bit brighter than the nose would suggest, though not really lively; the fruit is cherry with clean raspberry accents supported by more and brighter acidity than one might guess from the nose, supported by rather green tannins that flow into a clean tannic finish. It's a bit settled, and I'd have liked more fruit in the nose, but is a good expression of the vintage and will drink nicely will drink nicely with grilled meats or light stews.
1 star

Candialle
Via San leolino 71
50020 Panzano in Chianti (FI)
http://www.candialle.com

Candialle Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, and fairly rich, in a youthful key, with cherry and forest berry fruit supported by dusky greenish acidity and some hints of cedar and gum Arabic. It's a bit unsettled, but this is youth at work. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by soft sweet tannins while direction comes from bright cherry acidity. It's a bit lax, and I found myself wanting tighter definition to the fruit and the tannins, which are splintery. In its defense it is young, but I'm not sure how much the tannins will do with time. This is in a tasting situation; the splinteriness of the tannins will be much less evident if one is drinking the wine to wash down grilled sausages or fried meats, and it will complete either task admirably.
1 star

Setriolo
Località Setriolo 61
53011 Castellina in Chianti (SI)
http://www.setriolo.com

Setriolo Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry erry rim. The bouquet is muted, which is fine with a barrel sample. On the palate it's bright, with fresh raspberry laced cherry fruit supported by clean raspberry acidity and tannins that are fairly smooth, and flow into a clean bright finish. It promises to become quite graceful with time, and will be pleasant with hearty pasta dishes, succulent grilled meats or light stews, and will also be nice with fried meats and vegetables.

Setriolo Chianti Classico DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a slightly rustic key, with warm balsamic notes mingled with wet horse and fairly bright underlying acidity. On the palate it's full, with smooth elegant cherry fruit that gains direction from delicate cherry - sour plum acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright finish. It's pleasant, in a distinctly traditional key, and if you like the style it will drink quite well with succulent grilled meats, including white meats, and also be nice with stews or roasts. Expect the bottle to go quickly, and you may want another.
2 stars

Azienda San Michele a Torri
Via Di San Michele 36
50018 Scandicci
http://www.fattoriasanmichele.it/

Fattoria San Michele a Torri Fattoria La Gabbiola Chianti Classico DOCG 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up some cedar and moderate berry fruit. On the palate it's fairly rich, with clean sour cherry fruit that gains direction from moderately intense mineral acidity, while the tannins are clean and smooth, with greenish cedar accents, and flow into a warm savory finish. Pleasant, and will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

Il Colombaio di Cencio
Località Cornia
53013 Gaiole in Chianti (SI)
http://www.ilcolombaiodicencio.com

Il Colombaio di Cencio I Massi Chianti Classico DOCG 2005
Barrel sample
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is intense, and frankly oaky, and this can happen with barrel samples. On the palate it's bright and fairly rich, with moderately intense cherry and forest berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and smooth tannins that lay a warm cedar-laced burr over the tongue and flow into a clean cedary finish. It's fairly promising, in an ample rather soft key.

Il Colombaio di Cencio I Massi Chianti Classico DOCG 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, with powerful red berry fruit supported by some brambly accents and hints of bitter hardwood ash with underlying bitter cocoa. Harmonious, and a fair amount going on. On the palate it's rich and full, with elegant cherry fruit supported by deft cherry acidity that gains depth from pleasant slightly greenish overtones, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish with a warm tannic underpinning. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well with succulent red or white meats -- steak comes to mind, as does chicken pot pie. Expect the bottle to go quickly, and you may want another. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Il Colombaio di Cencio I Massi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by spice and cedar, with some peppery accents and underlying bitterness. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by clean sour cherry acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that do have a cedar overlay to them, and flow into a warm cedar-laced finish with sour cherry fruit. Pleasant, in a youthful key; it will benefit from another year in bottle, and will drink nicely in any case with succulent roasts or hearty stews. Wild boar would be just the thing.
2 stars

Il Molino di Grace
Località Il Volano
Panzano in Chianti
http://www.ilmolinodigrace.com

Il Molino di Grace Chianti Classico DOCG 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is elegant, with violets and red berry fruit mingled with dusky cedar and underlying spice. Nice balance and harmonious, though it's obvious that the wine is not from a hot vintage. On the palate it's graceful, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by clean citric acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that are ample but not overlarge, and flow into a clean cherry fruit finish that gains definition from acidity and savory accents. Graceful, and quite pleasant to drink; it's like a pretty girl who speaks quietly, forcing one to concentrate to hear, and who has something to say. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

La Marcellina
Via Case Sparse, 74
50020 Panzano in Chianti
http://www.lamarcellina.it

La Marcellina Comignole Chianti Classico DOCG 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bitter, with some cedar laced with slight balsamic notes, hardwood ash, and sea salt, but not much fruit. On the palate it's a bit unusual, with warm cedar-laced fruit supported by slight acidity that flows into a clean cedar-laced finish that whose sweet accents bring a strawberry cupcake to mind. It's decidedly unexpected and a bit disconcerting.
1 star

Le Cinciole
Via Case Sparse 83
50020 Panzano in Chianti (FI)
http://www.lecinciole.it

Le Cinciole Chianti Classico DOCG 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with spice and herbal accents, in particular licorice, mingled with some rhubarb and alcoholic warmth, but not much fruit. On the palate it's a bit brighter than the nose suggests, though still shadowy, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by moderately intense mineral acidity and clean bitter accents that flow into a clean fairly light mineral finish with some savory overtones. I liked it better on the palate than the nose, which is still developing, and I found it growing upon me, because the palate is quite pleasant. It will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

Lornano
Località Lornano 11
53035 Monteriggioni (SI)
http://www.fattorialornano.it

Lornano Le Bandite Chianti Classico DOCG 2005
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is rich and inviting, with bright cherry fruit supported by clean spice and some savory cedar; it's quite young, but there's a lot going on, and it's pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's bright, with clean deft cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that do have slight cedary overtones, and by deft cherry plum acidity that carries into a clean graceful finish. Quite nice, and will drink well with quickly cooked, not too rich meats, or with simple pasta dishes. A beautiful expression of a lesser vintage, worth seeking out..
2 stars

Lornano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2004
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up spice mingled with hardwood ash and some balsamic overtones. On the palate it's full, with bright slightly sour cherry fruit supported by clean sour berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that have a warm cedary burr, and flow into a clean deft berry fruit finish. It's a little overripe, but pleasant, and will drink nicely with stews or roasts in the short term, while I think it will also age nicely for at least 5 years, perhaps 10.
2 stars

Ormanni
Località Ormanni
53036 Poggibonsi (SI)
http://www.ormanni.it

Ormanni Chianti Classico DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with moderate forest berry fruit overshadowed by clean spicy accents, cedar, and some greenish overtones. On the palate it's full, and rather soft, with ample cherry fruit supported by clean berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly tart finish. The palate is more interesting than the nose, and actually rather graceful; I found myself taking a second sip to enjoy it. A nice expression of a difficult vintage, and it t will drink well with succulent red meats or light stews.
2 stars

Rocca delle Macie
Località Le Macie
53011 Castellina in Chianti
http://www.roccadellemacie.com

Rocca delle Macie Tenuta Sant'Alfonso Chianti Classico DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with nose tingling spice mingled with greenish accents and peppery overtones. On the palate it's full with moderately intense generic berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and peppery spice that flows into a clean slightly splintery finish with tannic underpinning. I'd have liked greater depth than I found; it's angry, with the tannins from wood carrying most of the show.
1 star

Rocca di Montegrossi
Località San Marcellino
53010 Monti in Chianti (SI)
Tel 0577 747 977

Rocca di Montegrossi Chianti Classico DOCG 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some greenish accents mingled with berry fruit and peppery spice, and a fair amount of underlying acidity. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by clean sweet tannins that do have a slight greenish burr to them, and flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish with bitter overtones. It's not as rich, nor as deft as a 2006, but has a pleasing fullness to it, and I would give the bouquet another year to develop before drinking it with succulent red meats, either out of the oven or off of the grill. It's a bit shrill -- and effect of the vintage -- to be drunk by the glass, but it will work well with the proper foods.
2 stars

Rocca di Montegrossi Vigneto San Marcellino Chianti Classico DOCG 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful with balsamic notes and pronounced greenish accents, with underlying acidity, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful balsam-laced red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and smooth sweet tannins, with unusual residual bitter sweetness -- perhaps a wood-fruit interaction -- that I didn't completely expect. It comes across as trying too hard. In its defense, it is quite young.
1 star

Tenuta di Nozzole
Via di Nozzole 12
Località Passo dei Pecorai
50022 Greve in Chianti (FI)
http://www.tenutefolonari.com

Tenuta di Nozzole Nozzole Chianti Classico DOCG 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up spice mingled with some tart greenish accents and hints of nose-tingling acidity. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense generic berry fruit supported by warm mineral acidity and tannins that have a splintery green underpinning and flow into a splintery tannic finish. It's very much a child of the vintage; in terms of accompaniments it will drink well with succulent meats that beg a sip to clear the palate between bites.
1 star

Villa Branca
Via Novoli 10
500124 Mercatale Val di pesa (FI)
http://www.villabranca.it

Villa Branca Chianti Classico DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit wild, with warm balsamic notes mingled with underbrush and a fair amount of acidity, while there is also wet horse. On the palate it's ample, in a soft rather lascivious way, with clean cherry fruit supported by cherry acidity and by tannins that are warm and splintery, and owe a far amount to oak, which presents in the form of an angry final burr. It's quite young, and to be frank needs another year to come together; when it does it will drink nicely with succulent red meats or light stews.
2 stars

Castello di Bossi
Località Bossi in Chianti
53033 Castelnuovo Berardenga
http://www.castellodibossi.it/default.htm

Castello di Bossi Chianti Classico DOCG 2004
Deep black lam with black reflections and lam in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit nicely balanced by spice with underlying berry fruit acidity that provides direction. Harmonious, and quite young too. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with powerful cherry fruit supported by clean slightly sour berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long clean berry fruit finish. It's deft, and will drink nicely with succulent red meats, including richer fare such as leg of lamb or venison. It will also age nicely for a 5-8 years, and will likely become lacy with time.
2 stars

Podere Terreno alla Via di Volpaia
Località Volpaia
53017 Radda in Chianti (SI)
http://www.podereterreno.it

Podere Terreno alla Via di Volpaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2004
Deep almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with underbrush mingled with brambly acidity and underlying delicate fruit with hints of dried flowers. On the palate it's medium bodied and deft, with bright cherry fruit supported by clean slightly mineral berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that display clean slightly greenish overtones and flow into a fresh, bright berry fruit finish with a clean slightly brambly underpinning. It's quite pleasant in a decidedly traditional key -- no small oak here -- and will drink nicely with grilled meats or roasts, If you like the style you will enjoy it very much, and may want a second bottle.
88-90

Villa Montepaldi
Via Montepaldi 12
50026 San Cascianto Val di Pesa (FI)
http.//www.villamontepaldi.it

Villa Montepaldi Tagliafune Chianti Classico DOCG 2004
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit supported by clean spice and slight cedar. On the palate it's full and smooth, with fairly intense rather generic berry fruit supported by moderately intense sour cherry acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bitter tannic finish. It's pleasant, but fairly direct, and I'd have liked a bit more depth than I found.
2 stars