Barbera, like Chianti, is more difficult to pin down than some appellations: Producers usually present several vintages, a Barbera Base, or base wine that is generally from the previous harvest (in this case 2005), and one or more Barbera Superiore wines that are at least a year older than the Barbera Base -- often two -- and have spent several months, if not a year or more, in wood, which can be large casks or small French barrels as the producer prefers.
This year the wines presented were, for the Barbera Base, primarily 2005, and for the Barbera Superiore, primarily 2003.
To begin with the 2005, I was favorably impressed with them despite the rains that characterized much of the summer of 2005: The wines tend to be fairly light, and are also bright, with lively acidities; in some cases they also display vegetal notes that are at least in part related to the cool summer temperatures, but remain quite drinkable and will work nicely with simple foods.
The 2003 vintage Barbera Superiore, which I had high hopes for on the basis of the 2003 Barbera Base wines I tasted at the 2004 Barbera Meeting, has turned out to be much more problematic.
Then I said:
In terms of vintages the 2003 was certainly the most interesting. Barbera the vine responded quite well to the long, hot, dry summer, and the wines display unusual power and depth, a depth that is all the more impressive considering that these wines were very young, and for the most part fermented and aged in steel -- what would normally be quaffing wines. I eagerly await next year's Barbera Normale, and think that the Superiori will be equally impressive when they are released, though they will require a deft touch on the part of the winemakers to avoid excessive concentration that might weigh them down.
Unfortunately, while I did find a great deal of concentration, I didn't find nearly as much deftness as I would have hoped; taken as a group they display the same undercurrent of heatstruck overripenes coupled with high alcohol content, and, in some cases, stridency, that one finds in the 2003 wines of other Italian appellations. The one thing that saved many of the wines is Barbera's natural acidity, which was cut back by the heat, but not completely; as a result, despite overripeness that is in some cases considerable, the 2003 Superiori do display a degree of acidity that maintains freshness and keeps the wines from settling. Because of their characteristics, I would not hold the 2003 Barbera Superiore wines from any of the various Barbera Appellations (Barbera D'Asti, Barbera D'Alba, Nizza and so on) for any length of time.
In short, the Barbera Superiore 2003 is a wine to approach with caution: While there are some very nice 2003 Barbera Superiore wines that will add considerable enjoyment to the meal, the vintage is one of those that separates the gifted winemakers from the rest of the field.
The wines, tasted from June 14 to 16 2006
Terre Del Barolo
Via Barolo-Alba, 5
12060 Castiglione Falletto (Cuneo)
Tel. 0173 262053 -
http://www.terredelbarolo.com
Terre del Barolo Vinum Vita Est Barbera D'Alba 2005
Fairly deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with red berry fruit laced with some cedar and greenish vegetal overtones. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by clean citric acidity that I'd have liked better defined, and by moderately intense tannins that flow into a clean berry fruit finish with peppery spice. Direct, and fairly simple -- I have "up front" noted in the margin.
1 star
Terre del Barolo Vinum Vita Est Barbera d'Alba Superiore 2004
Deep cherry r with some violet notes. The bouquet is moderately intense, with considerable peppery spice and a fair amount of alcohol, mingled with iodine and sea salt, but not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, and tart, with fairly bright sour cherry fruit supported by moderately intense tannins and by considerable sour cherry acidity that has some eucalyptus overtones as well. It's a bit thin for a Superiore, but because of its lively acidity will drink well with fattier meats off the grill, or even with fried meats and vegetables.
1 star
Villa Giada
Reg. Ceirole, 4
14053 CANELLI (Asti)
Tel. 0141 831100 -
http://www.andreafaccio.it/villagiadawine/
Villa Giada Vigneto la Quercia Barbera d'Asti Superiore 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is a bit unusual, with eye-opening petroleum and gum Arabic accents at first swish, which are supported by spice and some cedar, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry and forest berry fruit supported by slightly disjointed sour acidity and by ample tannins that bring up powerful bitter vanilla overtones as all else fades. It's got a fair amount of fruit, but is overshadowed by oak that has yet to integrate, and may never completely. In terms of accompaniments, it will work well with succulent red meats.
1 star
Villa Giada Bricco Dani Barbera d'Asti Superiore Nizza 2004
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with pyrope rim; poured ink. The bouquet is intense, with moderate prune-cherry fruit and considerable cedar with cedar-laced spice. Lots of wood, and it predominates though it does allow some fruit to emerge. On the palate the wine is full, and powerful, with oddly languid fruit that has unusual yellow peach accents -- likely a result of wood-fruit interaction -- supported by some greenish accents, and by smooth sweet tannins that owe much of their substance to oak. Quite nice in an international key, and it does a fine job of balancing intense wood and fruit. If you like the international style, you will like it very much, and you will find things to ponder even if you're a traditionalist. Because of its smoothness I would drink it with drier roasts, along the lines of roast beef cooked medium. Worth seeking out.
90
Azienda Agricola Il Vino dei Padri
Vallebrina, 1
Monale (Asti)
Tel 0141 213083
http://www.ilvinodeipadri.it/
Il Vino dei Padri Vigna D'Aris Barbera d'Asti Superiore 2004
Deep pigeon blood ruby with violet rim. The bouquet is somewhat overripe, with stewed cherries and prunes mingled with some greenish notes and underlying spice. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards full, with fairly intense slightly sour cherry-red currant fruit that gains definition from frankly bitter acidity and is supported by ample soft tannins. Pleasant in a slightly rustic key, though I'd have liked greater richness on the nose; it will drink well with grilled meats or light stews, and will also be a nice match with fried foods. Expect the bottle to go quickly.
2 stars
Il Vino dei Padri Vigna D'Aris Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2003
Deep black cherry ruby. The bouquet is fairly rich, and surprisingly mature, with leaf tobacco mingled with green leather and peppery spice, and some underbrush as well. On the palate it's full, and rather languid, with moderately intense slightly leathery berry fruit that gains direction from moderate acidity, and is supported by cedar-laced tannins that flow into a clean bitter tannic finish. It's fairly direct, and will drink well with hearty roasts or stews.
1 star
Cantina La Maranzana
Via San Giovanni, 20
14040 Maranzana (AT)
Tel +39-0141-77927
http://www.cantinamaranzana.com/
Cantina Maranzana Trabucco Barbera d'Asti Superiore 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is closed, though swishing does bring up some vegetal notes and cedar-laced bitterness. Not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderate fruit that gains some direction from sour berry fruit acidity and underlying graphite bitterness that carries into the finish.
1 star
Antica Contea di Castelvero
Via Roma, 2
14040 Città Castel Boglione (Asti)
Tel. 0141 763 111
http://www.araldicavini.com/contents/eng/cant/
Antica Contea di Castelvero Rive Barbera d'Asti Superiore 2004
Deep black cherry r with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit mingled with some barnyard tang and wet leaves, and a fair amount of underbrush as well. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich rather bitter red berry fruit that gains direction from bitter graphite acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a bitter finish with cedar overtones. It's pleasant in a scrappy, rather rustic key, and will drink well with succulent red meats off the grill; if you like the style you will like it very much. Expect the bottle to go quickly.
2 stars
MGM Mondo Del Vino S.r.l.
Via C. Seganti, 73/f
47100 Forlì
Tel. 0543 789911
www.mondodelvino.com
MGM Mondo del Vino Ricossa Barbera d'Asti Superiore 2004
Deep pyrope ruby with violet rim. The bouquet is overripe, with stewed prunes and berry fruit -- currants and slight raspberry -- mingled with some greenish notes. On the palate it's full, and soft, with ample prune cherry fruit that gains direction from a combination of bright acidity that becomes more apparent on the second sip, and cedar-laced bitterness, while it is supported by ample smooth tannins. By comparison with some other Barberas it's less aggressive, and as a result will work better with foods that aren't as fatty or rich. Meats in any case, but slightly better done, or lighter colored. I found it growing on me.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola La Guardia
Regione La Guardia, 1
15010 Morsasco (AL)
Tel. 0144 73076
http://www.laguardiavini.it/home.asp
La Guardia Ornovo Barbera del Monferrato Superiore 2004
Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with some violets masked by powerful bitterness and some gum Arabic, with chemical notes as well. Not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by a fair amount of cedar-laced bitterness, and by moderate acidity that both carry into the finish. I'd have liked more fruit; the wood covers it now, and I doubt it will ever completely emerge.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Bric Cenciurio
Via Roma, 24 12060
Barolo (Cuneo)
Tel. 0173 56317
http://www.briccenciurio.com
Bric Cenciurio Naunda Barbera D'Alba Superiore 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with violet reflections. The bouquet is shut tight, though some greenish bitterness does emerge with swishing, mingled with spice and alcohol. Not much else. On the palate it's full, and soft, with ample cherry prune fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by smooth soft tannins that work from below the surface, and reveal slight cedar bitterness in the finish. It feels like it was from a hotter vintage than some of the other wines, and because of its softness will drink better with drier meats.
1 star
Azienda Vitivinicola Chiarlo Michele
Strada Nizza - Canelli, 99
14042 Calamandrana (Asti)
Tel. 0141 769030
http://www.chiarlo.it
Michele Chiarlo Le Orme Barbera d'Asti Superiore 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The nose is moderately intense, with fairly strong bitter notes and some cedar, with underlying alcohol as well, but not much fruit; what there is is generic red berry fruit. On the palate it's full, with ample soft cherry prune fruit that gains direction from moderate acidity, and is supported by ample smooth soft tannins that lay a dusty trail over the tongue. It's more interesting on the palate than the nose, and I would give it a year to see how it develops, though to be frank I'd have liked greater richness.
1 star
Michele Chiarlo La Court Barbera D'Asti Superiore Nizza 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is deft, with delicate floral accents and some prunes mingled with berry fruit jam and moderate cedar-laced spice. Nice balance. On the palate it's ample and quite soft, with full prune fruit supported by slightly greenish spicy tannins, and by just enough acidity to float it off the ground. A very overripe child of the vintage, and if you like this big soft fruit-driven style -- what a friend calls sexpot wines -- you will like it. If you prefer more typical Barbera, you will find it a bit much. Because of its softness it will work best with drier meats.
1 star
La Spinosa Alta
C.ne Spinosa Alta 6
15038 - Alessandria
Tel. 0142 921372
La Spinosa Alta La Punta Barbera del Monferrato Superiore 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and black almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with delicate floral notes -- violets and irises -- mingled with spice and graphite bitterness, with underlying berry fruit. On the palate it's full, and soft, with ample red berry fruit supported by cedary bitterness and ample smooth tannins; there isn't much in the way of acidity, and the finish is short, resolving in bitterness. It brings to mind someone who lumbers, and then draws up to catch his breath.
1 star
Terre da Vino
Via Bergesia 6
Barolo (CN)
0173 564 611
http://www.terredavino.it
Terre da Vino La Luna e i Falò Barbera d'Asti Superiore 2004
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some berry fruit supported by alcohol and underlying cedar. On the palate it's medium bodied and fairly soft, with moderately intense rather bitter red berry fruit supported by cedar-laced tannins and moderate acidity that flow into a clean bitter finish. It's harmonious but has settled some, and will only continue in this direction with time; because of its softness it will drink better with drier meats, along the lines of roast pork loin or turkey breast.
1 star
Terre da Vino Croere Barbera D'Alba Superiore 2004
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with black garnet rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with cedar and some vanilla that overshadow just about everything else. On the palate it's ample, but lax, with moderately intense generic red berry fruit that gains direction from moderate acidity, and is supported by ample smooth tannins that flow into a clean finish that's more of the same. It lacks verve.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Tenute Dei Vallarino
Regione Valle Asinari, 20
14050 San Marzano Oliveto (Asti)
Tel. 0141 823048
Tenute dei Vallarino La Ladra Barbera d'Asti Superiore 2004
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is delicate, with moderate berry fruit overshadowed by cedar and some warm spice. On the palate it's full, and elegant, with lively red berry fruit that gains direction from deft red currant acidity, and is supported by ample smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long bright finish with butter undertones. Pleasant, in a saucy key that I associate more with Barbera, and will drink nicely with succulent grilled meats -- lamb chops or a filet sound about right -- or light stews, and because of its brightness it will be a good bet with fried meats too. Expect the bottle to go quickly. Worth seeking out.
2 stars
Tenuta I Quaranta
Regione Rioglio, 9
15010 Ricaldone (Alessandria) -
Italia
Tel. 0141 777412
http://www.i40.it
I Quaranta India Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2004
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with bright raspberry and forest berry fruit that gain definition from vegetal notes that add a fair amount of complexity. On the palate it's bright, light, and scrappy, with bright sour raspberry and red currant fruit supported by lively acidity and light splintery tannins that flow into a fairly long berry fruit finish with bitter undertones. It's not a wine that will show well -- too aggressive and too bright -- but if you're sitting down to a meal of grilled or fried meats, or perhaps a cookout, you will want a second bottle.
2 stars
Cascina La Ghersa
Via San Giuseppe 19
Moasca (AT)
Tel 0141 856 012
La Ghersa Piagè Barbera d'Asti 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is zesty, with ripe red berry fruit supported by spice and hints of cedar. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards light, with moderately intense red berry fruit that gains direction from moderately intense acidity, and is supported by ample smooth sweet tannins. It will work well with lighter meats and hearty first courses.
1 star
La Ghersa Camparò Barbera d'Asti Superiore 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The nose is intense, with slightly sour cherry fruit laced with underbrush and some green leather, which is a little unusual in a wine this young, but adds a nice touch, and pleasing spice as well. Refreshing. On the palate it's full, with ample red berry fruit, a mixture of red currants and sour cherries with some strawberry overtones, supported by lively acidity and by clean sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh acidic finish. It has a pleasingly cheeky brashness to it, and will drink quite well with grilled meats or light stews. If you like this style you will like it very much, and need a second bottle. Well worth seeking out.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Cascina Chicco
Via Valentino, 144
12043 Canale(Cuneo)
Tel. 0173 979411
www.cascinachicco.com
Cascina Chicco Bric Loira Barbera d'Alba Superiore 2004
Impenetrable pyrope with violet rim; poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense, and rich, with black cherry jam mingled with floral accents, spice, and a pleasant coolness. On the palate it's full, and soft, with ample cherry-prune fruit that's quite jammy, and is supported by ample smooth soft tannins that do reveal bitter accents in the finish; there's not much acidity, and this isn't a surprise as the grapes must have been quite ripe to produce the jammy notes they do. If you like big smooth soft fairly sweet wines you will like it, but you have to like this style.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Olivetta Luigi
Frazione Sogliano, 6
15020 Castelletto Merli (Alessandria)
Tel. 0141 918157
Olivetta Barbera del Monferrato Superiore 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is a bit unusual, with stewed berry fruit mingled with some spice, and underlying cedar. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins; the wood is evident, not so much as wood per se, as in a blanketing, as it were, of the fruit, which emerges tamed.
1 star
Bersano Cav. Dario
Regione Marziano, 12
14050 S. Marzano Oliveto (Asti)
Tel. 0141 856154 - 856667
www.cavalierdario.it
Bersano Cavalier Dario Cà D'Galdin Barbera d'Asti 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is powerful, and frankly vegetal, with green peppers and cedar supported by pleasant spice; there isn't much fruit and this may be to drought stress. On the palate it's full, and though soft does have sufficient acidity to keep it from flagging; there's also a fruit laced softness that comes with a hot summer; the fruit is cherry with unusual yellow peach accents that work rather well, and flow into a clean berry fruit finish. Unusual but pleasant, in a soft, rather overripe key; because of its softness I would drink it with drier meats, and not age it long.
2 stars
Bersano Cavalier Dario Cà D'Galdin Barbera d'Asti 2003
This was aged in smaller wood, or so I was told.
Poured pyrope ink. The bouquet is muted, with a great deal of oak that overshadows moderate berry fruit, with some spicy undertones as well. On the palate it's full, and soft, with ample prune fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by pleasing bitter accents that provide direction, and flow into a clean bitter finish. It's a child of the vintage, but pleasant enough in an ample soft key, and will drink well with drier meats.
2 stars
A note: The wines have the same name and different labels; I alas didn't realize this until after the event, and am not sure which was which.
Azienda Agricola Ricci Carlo Daniele
Via Montale Celli, 9
15050 Costa Vescovato (Alessandria)
Tel. 0131 838115
Ricci Castellana Colli Tortonesi Barbera 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is delicate, with red berry fruit that has some jammy notes mingled with greenish cedar and some spice. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggested, with fairly rich red berry fruit that gains direction from ample tour raspberry acidity, and is supported by ample smooth sweet tannins. It doesn't display the tightness of a cooler vintage, but is pleasant and will drink well with succulent, not too fatty red meats. Expect the bottle to go quickly.
2 stars
Rappellino Dario
Via Mazzini 15
Grazzano Badoglio
0141 925 154
Rappellino Dario Maria D'Rapalin Barbera d'Asti 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cooked fruit and some cedar mingled with greenish vegetal accents. Hot weather. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense red berry fruit that gains direction from bright acidity, and is overshadowed in an odd way by savory cedar-laced tannins; the combination is unusual, but it does hold together well and will drink well with succulent red meats. Direct, and the bottle will go quickly if you like the style.
2 stars
Prunotto
Regione San Casciano 4/G
Alba (CN)
Tel 0173 280 017
http://www.prunotto.it
Prunotto Pian Romualdo Barbera D'Alba 2003
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is surprisingly young, with berry fruit jam and berry fruit blossoms, mingled with hints of rose petal and slight underlying vegetal notes. On the palate it's full, rich, and soft, with ample smooth sweet slightly jammy red berry fruit that gains moderate direction from slight acidity, and is supported by ample sweet tannins that are frankly lax, and work from below the surface, flowing into a long prune-laced finish.
1 star
Prunotto Costamiole Barbera d'Asti 2001
Deep black almandine ruw black reflections and some black almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly powerful, with bright sour berry fruit supported by warm red currant acidity, and by clean underbrush laced spice. On the palate it's full, with powerful red berry fruit supported by clean sweet tannins, while there is moderately intense acidity to provide direction and flow into a clean red berry fruit finish. It's pleasant, in a fairly direct key, and will drink nicely with foods though it may be eclipsed at a tasting; I would accompany it with a porterhouse cut, which is more Tuscan than Piemontese, but will do nicely. A touch soft, but then again it is a Barbera base and is 5 years old
2 stars
Tenuta Grillo
Strada Maranchetti, 6
15010 Gamalero (Alessandria)
Tel. 0131 709176
http://www.tenutagrillo.it
Tenuta Grillo Igiea Barbera d'Asti 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is penetrating, with balsamic notes and some green leather mingled with iodine and alcohol, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full, and fairly soft, with jammy sweet red berry fruit that gains sufficient definition to keep from flagging from citric acidity, and is supported by tannins that have a warm cedary burr to them. It's a child of the vintage, and as such displays its shortcomings -- overripeness, in particular -- but within the context of the vintage is lively and will drink quite well with succulent red meats. Expect the bottle to go quickly, if you like this style.
2 stars
Casetta F.lli
Via Castellero, 5
12040 Vezza D'Alba (Cuneo)
Tel. 0173 65010
http://www.flli-casetta.it
Casetta F.lli Surì Barbera D'Alba 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with pyrope rim. The bouquet is intense, with a great deal of cedar that settles like a blanket, overshadowing all else. On the palate it's full and smooth, with moderate berry fruit supported by some deft acidity, and by ample smooth cedar laced tannins that lead into a long clean finish. There's an emptiness to it that is likely vintage related; it brings to mind a small person in a large overcoat somehow. This said, it will drink well with succulent, not too fatty red meats.
1 star
Casetta F.lli Barilin Barbera D'Alba 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is oak laced with some vegetal accents, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with ample soft fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by tannins that are frankly cedary, and flow into a long clean cedar laced finish with some tart berry fruit underpinning. It's deft, and a fine interpretation of the vintage, but you have to like big oaky wines to enjoy it. If you do you will like it considerably; because of the softness of the fruit I would drink it with mildly flavored meats, I think.
2 stars
Colle Manora
Strada Bozzole, 4 15044
Quargnento (Alessandria)
Tel. 0131 219252
http://www.collemanora.it
Colle Manora Manora Barbera del Monferrato 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black almandine rim. The bouquet is surprisingly mature, with green leather and some leaf tobacco mingled with underbrush and balsam; the overall impression is harmonious. On the palate it's full, with ample slightly leathery red berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that work from below the surface, and flow into a fairly long clean fruit laced finish. It's pleasant, in a slightly rustic smooth key (the heat softened it), and there isn't as much acidity as I might have liked; this said, it will drink well with drier meats, and if you like the style it's worth thinking about.
2 stars
Andrea Mutti
Regione San Ruffino 49
15050 Sarezzano (Alessandria)
Tel. 0131884119
Mutti Andrea San Ruffino Colli Tortonesi Barbera 2003
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and quite up front, with a combination of hardwood and cigar ash mingled with cedar and some spice that has greenish accents. On the palate it's brighter than one might have expected, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity, and by ample smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright finish. Traditional, and they have drawn the acidity from the grape even in an adverse vintage; it isn't something to drink far from the table, but will work quite nicely with grilled meats, and will even work with fried meats. If you like the style you will like it.
2 stars
Boveri Luigi
Fraz. Montale Celli (Alessandria)
Tel. 0131-838165
Boveri Luigi Vignalunga Colli Tortonesi Barbera 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is frankly oaky, with a mixture of cedar and spice with underlying petroleum: It's like sniffing a barrel slat. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense jammy fruit laced with vanilla bitterness and supported by ample sweet soft cedary tannins that flow into a long cedar laced finish. It's like sucking a barrel slat. In short, if you like oak you will like this wine. It is well used, but I found it a bit much.
1 star
Baravalle Azienda Agricola
Fr. Valle Chiozze, 24 14042
Calamandrana (Asti)
Tel. 0141 75159
http://www.baravallevini.com
Baravalle Barbera d'Asti 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is surprisingly fresh, with a rush of violets mingled with cherry blossoms supported by some acidity and by clean berry fruit jam that has some vegetal overtones. The product of a hot vintage, but nice. On the palate it's full, with powerful jammy berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins; there isn't as much acidity as I might have expected from the nose, but what there is is sufficient to keep the wine from flagging. It will drink well with succulent, not too fatty red meats.
1 star
Baravalle Nizza Barbera D'Asti Superiore Nizza 2003
Impenetrable pyrope with red brick rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is moderately intense, and sweet, with jammy prune fruit supported by spice and some soft vanilla from oak. On the palate it's full and quite soft, with sweet prune fruit supported by ample sweet tannins; there's very little acidity, and though it holds now I wouldn't wait long to drink it because it will settle with time. Because of its softness it will drink best with drier meats, for example roast turkey breast. If you like big soft fruit bombs you will like it, but I found it lacking acidity.
1 star
Tenuta Lo Zoccolaio
Località Boschetti 4
Barolo (CN)
Tel 0141 88551
Cascina Lo Zoccolaio Suculé Barbera D'Alba 2003
Impenetrable pyrope with black almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and oaky, with vanilla and cedar mingling with some very ripe berry fruit that gains bitter accents from fruit wood interaction. On the palate it's full, and smooth, with moderately intense ripe red berry fruit overshadowed by ample oak, and supported by what acidity manages to make it out from under the oaky mantle, and by ample smooth cedar laced tannins that flow into a bitter cedar finish. Oak in a glass, and though it is well done, it is oak in a glass. If you like this you will like the wine. I'd rather less.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Cascina Ballarin
Frazione Annunziata 115
La Morra (CN)
Tel 0173 50365
http://www.cascinaballarin.it
Cascina Ballarin Giuli Barbera D'Alba 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, and jammy, with some greenish vegetal accents as well and cedar too. Nicely balanced, however. On the palate it's full, with bright red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by clean sweet tannins that flow into a clean berry fruit finish with cedar-laced tannic overtones. A pleasant expression of a hot vintage, with much less jam or oak than many of the wines display -- there's that much more fruit -- and it will drink quite well with succulent red meats.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Tenuta Rocca
Località Ornati 19
Monforte D'Alba (CN)
Tel. 0173 78412
http://www.tenutarocca.com
Tenuta Rocca Tenuta Rocca Barbera D'Alba 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, with slightly stewed berry fruit supported by some deft acidity, and by moderate spice. On the palate it's lively, with bright red berry fruit, a mixture of unripe raspberry and cherry, supported by lively sour red currant acidity and by light tannins that flow into a clean, tart finish. Classic young Barbera, upfront like a wide-eyed smiling tomboy, and it will drink well with succulent grilled meats, including fattier cuts, or with fried meats, and will also be perfect at a picnic or cookout. Expect the bottle to go quite fast.
2 stars
Tenuta Rocca Vigna Rocca Neira Barbera D'Alba 2003
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with ruby rim. The bouquet is frankly oaky, with an initial rush of clean cedar that covers all, like a tarp. On the palate it's medium bodied, with more tart citric fruit than I might have guessed from the nose, supported by clean acidity and ample smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long clean finish. The palate is much more interesting than the nose, and I'd give it a year in hopes that the nose will evolve; in any case drink it with succulent red meats. The score reflects the present, not what it will be in a year.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Icardi
Via Balbi, 30 12053
Castiglione Tinella (Cuneo)
Tel. 0141 855159
Icardi Nuj Suj Barbera d'Asti 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with a nice balance of very ripe, slightly vegetal berry fruit and greenish cedar from oak. Obviously a hot vintage, but pleasant. On the palate it's full, with lively red berry fruit that gains direction from deft acidity, and is supported by clean sweet tannins that do have some oaky overtones, and lead into a clean savory fruit-laced finish with lively acidity. Though the heat of the summer is evident in the character of the fruit, there is sufficient acidity to keep the wine on its toes, and the oak contributes rather than predominate. In short, a nice expression of the vintage, and if you like this lively rather scrappy style the bottle will go very fast. Worth seeking out.
2 stars
Icardi Suri di Mu Barbera D'Alba 2003
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is a bit rustic, with balsam and some barnyard tang -- stable straw -- mingled with savory spice and some greenish notes that add depth. On the palate it's full, with bright red berry fruit supported by lively acidity, and by clean slightly balsamic tannins that flow into a long clean balsamic finish. It's a bit rustic, and you have to like the style, but if you do it will drink very well with succulent red meats off the grill, or with light stews, and you may find yourself wanting a second bottle. I found it growing on me.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Costa Olmo
Via San Michele 18
Vinchio (Asti)
Tel. 0141 950 423
http://www.costaolmo.com
Costa Olmo La Madrina Barbera d'Asti 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is oak-laced with red berry fruit and quite a bit of cedar. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by smooth tannins that flow into a fairly long warm finish. Though it's not really settled there's a degree of softness (that the acidity does balance) to it that is clearly the vintage at work. It's not a wine that will stand out at a tasting, but it will drink well with succulent red meats, and go quickly. You may want a second bottle.
2 stars
Costa Olmo Costa Olmo Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and brick rim. The bouquet is cedar-laced with some spice and peppery warmth overlying a fair amount of alcohol; though there are some sweet jammy notes, there's not much fruit per se. On the palate it's full, and fairly sweet, with ample generic soft cherry prune fruit that gains direction from moderate acidity, and is supported by ample sweet tannins that flow into a warm rather overripe finish. It's a child of the vintage, and (for me) comes up short.
1 star
Tenute Cisa Asinari Marchesi di Gresy
Via Rabaja, 43
12050 Barbaresco (Cuneo)
Tel. 0173 635222
http://www.marchesidigresy.com
Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Gresy Monte Colombo Barbera D'Asti 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby. The first sniff brings up a barrel slat, while subsequent sniffs also being up some shellac. Oak in a glass. On the palate it's full, and oaky, with moderately intense berry fruit that does have some acidity to support it, and considerable oak that covers all in a warm wash, flowing into a clean oak-laced finish. If you like the style you will like it, because it is well made, but you have to like heavily oaked wines.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Isabella
Via Gianoli, 64
Murisengo
Tel. 0141 693 000
http://www.isabellavini.com
Isabella Truccone Barbera d'Asti 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is cedar laced, with some greenish accents as well, and stewed fruit too. On the palate it's full, with fairly bright red berry fruit that gains direction from lively citric acidity, and is supported by clean sweet tannins that have a slight cedary burr. The palate is more interesting than the nose, and I would give the wine another year to get its bearings, and than drink it with succulent red meats, either roasted or off the grill.
1 star
Cantina Sociale del Freisa
Via San Giovanni 6
Castelnuovo Don Bosco
011 987 6117
Terre dei Santi Barbera D'Asti 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is clean, with menthol mingled with hints of red berry fruit and some cedar. On the palate it's moderately full, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by some acidity, and by smooth tannins that have a slight burr to them. It's light, and without pretensions, and will drink well with hearty meat based pasta dishes, meat based antipasti, and similar.
1 star
Terre dei Santi L'Alfiere Barbera d'Asti 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is vegetal, with a fair amount of oak as well. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by some acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean tart finish. It's a bit thin, but will drink well with succulent red meats.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Elvio Cogno
Località Ravera, 2
12060 Novello (Cuneo)
Tel. 0173 744006
http://www.elviocogno.com
Elvio Cogno Bricco dei Merli Barbera D'Alba 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with stewed berry fruit supported by some vegetal accents and a fair amount of bright acidity. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by ample sweet tannins; the overall impression is fairly lax, and I found myself wanting greater tightness. This said, it will drink well with succulent red meats.
1 star
Cave Di Moleto
Regione Moleto, 4
15038 Ottiglio (Alessandria)
Tel. 0142 921468
http://www.moleto.it
Cave di Moleto Bricco alla Prera Barbera del Monferrato 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is cooked, with stewed berry fruit mingled with berry fruit jam and a fair amount of cedar., On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate fruit supported by some acidity, and by smooth tannins that work from below the surface. It's frankly lax, and will drink best with drier white meats.
1 star
Cave di Moleto Procchio Barbera del Monferrato 2002
Black cherry ruby with black reflections and pale rim with slight hints garnet. The bouquet is fairly intense, and a bit rustic, with balsam mingled with animal hair and some bramble, and underlying cut leather. On the palate it's light, with bright greenish acidity and moderate sour cherry fruit that are supported by smooth tannins that flow into a clean fairly acidic finish. A simple, direct wine that will accompany foods nicely without demanding too much attention, in particular hearty meat based pasta dishes or quickly cooked meats. Expect it to go quickly.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Claudio Mariotto
Strada Provinciale per Sarezzano, 29
15057 Tortona (Alessandria)
Tel. 0131 868500
http://www.claudiomariotto.it
Mariotto Claudio Vho Colli Tortonesi Barbera 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is vegetal, with greenish notes mingled with some spice and moderate fruit. On the palate it's full and soft, with moderately intense red berry fruit that does gain some direction from moderate berry fruit acidity, and is supported by clean smooth tannins that flow into a fairly long clean slightly balsamic finish. It's a child of the vintage, but does display a certain depth, and will drink well with succulent red meats off the grill, or with light roasts. I found it growing upon me.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola La Colombera
Strada Comunale per Vho, 7
15057 Vho Di Tortona (Alessandria)
Tel. 0131 867795
http://www.lacolomberavini.it
La Colombera Vegia Rampana Colli Tortonesi Barbera 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is vegetal, with mint and some menthol mingled with spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full and soft, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by ample smooth soft tannins that flow into a clean finish. It's like an overstuffed cushion, and I'd have liked greater tightness than I found.
1 star
Cantina Sociale di Mombercelli "La" Terre Astesane Barbera d'Asti 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with bright berry fruit laced with cherry blossoms and some spice. On the palate it's light, with bright berry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and some underlying berry fruit jam, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean deft berry fruit finish. Pleasant in a light, direct key, and will drink well with meat-based pasta dishes, hearty legume based soups, and simple grilled meats. No pretensions, and the bottle will go quickly.
78
Ascheri Giacomo Cantine
Via G. Piumati, 23
12042 Bra (Cuneo)
Tel. 0172 412394
http://www.ascherivini.it
Ascheri Fontanelle Barbera D'Alba 2005
Lively ruby with black reflections and ruby rim. The bouquet is fresh, with floral notes and red berry fruit supported by some deft slightly greenish acidity. On the palate it's lively, with fairly bright red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by clean sweet tannins that flow into a moderately long berry fruit finish. Deft, and quite direct; it will drink well with hearty meat based pasta dishes or lighter grilled meats.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Castello Di Neive
Via Castelborgo, 1
12057 Neive (Cuneo)
Tel. 0173 67171
Castello di Neive Barbera D'Alba 2005
Poured pyrope ink with a lively violet rim. The bouquet is closed, though energetic swishing brings up stewed berry fruit mingled with spice. On the palate it's medium bodied, and fruit driven, with lively red berry fruit supported by some sour raspberry acidity, and by slightly splintery tannins that flow into a clean slightly bitter berry fruit finish. Zesty, and it will drink well with fattier meats off the grill, for example sausages or ribs, and also with fried meats and vegetables. Expect the bottle to go quickly.
1 star
Tenuta Olim Bauda
Reg. Prata 50
Incisa Scapaccino (AT)
Tel. 0141 742 66
http://www.tenutaolimbauda.it
Tenuta Olim Bauda Barbera D'Asti Superiore Nizza 2003
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful and frankly oaky, with considerable mentholated cedar overshadowing jammy red berry fruit; it gives an impression of considerable, almost syrupy concentration. Which isn't (thankfully) present on the palate; it is quite full, and very soft, but the ample red berry fruit is supported by deft slightly greenish cedar-laced sour cherry acidity that keeps it on its toes, and flows into a clean slightly greenish cedar-laced finish that's not too long. It's a child of the vintage, and soft enough that I wouldn't age it for long, but it will drink nicely with drier roasts served with rich gravies or sauces.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Morando Silvio
Via San Rocco 6
Vignale Monferrato
Tel 0142 933 590
http://www.morandosilvio.it
Their wines are organic.
Morando Silvio Barbera del Monferrato 2005
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is somewhat overripe, with stewed berry fruit and prunes mingled with berry fruit jam, and some greenish accents. On the palate it's ample and soft, with smooth sweet red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by clean sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long clean finish. I'd have expected greater acidity considering the rains of 2005, but it holds together well, and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews.
1 star
Morando Silvio Le Coste Barbera del Monferrato Superiore 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is oak-laced, with spice, and alcoholic warmth, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full and soft, with moderate cooked fruit supported by barest hints of acidity, and by tannins that have cocoa bitterness derived from wood, and flow into a frankly oaky finish. There were likely heat-related problems in the vineyard, and though oak was used to compensate, it could only go do so much; the result is oak in a glass, and too much of it.
1 star
Cantina Sant'Evasio L'Acqua Pier Franco
Strada San Nicolao 88
Nizza Monferrato (AT)
Tel. 0141 726 259
http://www.santevasiovini.com
Cantina Sant'Evasio Barbera D'Asti 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fresh, with bright red berry fruit supported by pleasant acidity and peppery notes likely from grapes. Quite a bit going on in a young, brash way. On the palate it's full, with rich fairly sweet red berry fruit supported by lively acidity and by ample smooth tannins that flow into a clean zesty fruit laced finish with citric overtones and peppery spice. Pleasant in a scrappy key, and will drink well with hearty first course dishes, or lesser grilled meats, and also has the wherewithal to stand up to fried meats. Expect it to go quickly.
1 star
Cantina Sant'Evasio Barbera D'Asti Superiore Nizza 2003
Deep black cherry ruby with red brick rim. The bouquet is fresh, intense, and a bit unusual, with warm balsamic notes and barnyard tang -- wet stable straw and lathered horse -- that's not nock-your-head back rustic, but has something animal to it, and there's also underlying oaky sawdust with slight vegetal overtones. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderate, rather bitter plum fruit supported by ample soft tannins that have some hints of underbrush to them, and by moderate acidity that flow into a warm finish.
1 star
Azienda Vitivinicola La Casaccia
Via Dante Barbano 10
Cella Monte (Alessandria)
tel 0142 489986
http://www.lacasaccia.biz
La Casaccia Vigna Sant'Anna Cellamonte Barbera d'Asti 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is slightly vegetal, with spice and greenish notes, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, and soft, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by some citric acidity, but not enough to make the wine bracing, and by ample soft tannins. I found myself wanting more depth to the fruit, which comes up short.
1 star
Cantina Sociale Terre di Vignale
Via Biagio Mazzucco 2
15049 Vignale M.to.
Cantina Terre di Vignale Mezzosecolo Barbera del Monferrato 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is inviting, with an abundance of red berry fruit supported by some acidity that gives direction and depth. Young. On the palate it's full, with lively red berry fruit supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity, and by moderately intense tannins that lead into a clean tart berry fruit finish. Youth in a glass, and smiling too; it will drink very well with grilled meats or light stews, and will be hard to beat at a cookout. You'll need several bottles.
2 stars
Arbiola di Terzano Riccardo
Reg. Saline 56
San Marzano Oliveto (AT)
Tel 0141 856 194
http://www.arbiola.it
Tenuta dell'Arbiola Carlotta Barbera D'Asti 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with red berry fruit and some greenish overtones that are supported by slight cedar. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by some acidity, and by clean smooth tannins that have a slight burr to them. Quite direct, and up front; what you see is what you get, and it will drink well with light pasta sauces or similar, or with light grilled meats.
1 star
Tenuta Dell'Arbiola Romilda VIII
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is clean, and slightly vegetal, with warm cherry prune fruit supported by bell pepper jelly with deft spice and some underbrush as well. Pleasant. On the palate it's full and soft, with ample cherry and prune fruit that has some sweet jammy overtones, and is supported by fairly deft berry fruit acidity, and by ample soft sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long berry fruit finish with slight cedar underpinning. It displays a fair amount of grace in a soft hot vintage key, and will drink nicely with succulent red meats.
2 stars
Cantina Alice Bel Colle
Regione Stazione, 9
15010 ALICE Bel Colle (Alessandria)
Tel. 0144 74103
http://www.cantinaalicebc.it
Cantina Alice Bel Colle Barbera d'Asti 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with vegetal red berry fruit supported by some spice, and by clean deft acidity. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by acidity that isn't as strong as I expected it to be, and by ample soft sweet tannins that flow into a clean finish. A bit of a let down.
1 star
Tenuta Garetto
S.S. Asti-Mare 30
14041 Agliano Terme (Asti)
Tel. 0141 954068
http://www.garetto.it
Tenuta Garetto Tra Neuit e Di Barbera D'Asti 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is bright and brambly with floral notes -- irises and roses -- mingled with cherry blossoms and bright tart berry fruit. Nice, and quite refreshing. On the palate it's bright, with lively red berry fruit supported by brisk sour cherry acidity and by smooth slightly brambly tannins that flow into a long clean finish. Classic traditional Barbera, a wine that greets you with a smile and invites you to enjoy it. What with? Hearty meat based pasta dishes will work, but it's better sited to grilled meats and the other delights of a cookout. You will want a second bottle.
2 stars
Tenuta Garetto Favà Barbera D'Asti Superiore Nizza 2003
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with deep black highlights and red brick rim. The bouquet is quite elegant, in a hot weather key, with rich, slightly vegetal berry fruit -- in particular currants and cherries -- with overlying sweetness and some cedar, with slight sea salt and bitter ash as well. On the palate it's rich, full, and soft, with ample soft red berry fruit supported by clean sweet tannins that have slight vegetal notes, and flows into a clean sweet cedar-laced finish with vegetal notes and tannic underpinning. Quite graceful, and a beautiful expression of a vintage that produced all too many big soft wines. Very good
2 stars
Vigneti Massa
Piazza G. Capsoni, 10
15059 Monleale (Alessandria)
Tel. 0131 80302
Vigneti Massa Sentieri Colli Tortonesi Barbera 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with rich red berry fruit that has slightly stewed overtones. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards full, with ample rather languid red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by clean sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. It's a trifle lax, and I'd have liked better definition to the fruit., which is settled. In any case, drink it with hearty first course dishes, or simple grilled meats.
1 star
Vigneti Massa Bigolla Colli Tortonesi Barbera 2001
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is rustic, with pungent barnyard tang -- stables -- and some spice. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate red berry fruit supported by some acidity, and by ample sweet tannins. It feels like it's from a hotter vintage than it came from, and I found it a bit settled.
1 star
Azienda Agricola La Scamuzza
Cascina Pomina, 17
15049 Vignale Monferrato (Alessandria)
Tel. 0142 926214
http://www.lascamuzza.it
La Scamuzza Vigna della Amorosa Barbera del Monferrato Superiore 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black garnet rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with warm red berry fruit supported by deft cedar and slightly balsamic berry fruit jam; pleasant. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards full, with fairly rich rather bitter red berry fruit that has hints of tobacco and leather about it and is supported by both balsamic acidity and warm cedar-laced tannins that flow into a hot cedary finish. Pleasant, in a warm fairly aggressive key, and will drink quite well with succulent roasts -- leg of lamb comes to mind -- or hearty stews. It's ready now.
2 stars
Viticoltori Associati Di Vinchio - Vaglio Serra e Z.L. S.c.r.l.
Regione San Pancrazio, 1
14040 Vinchio (Asti)
Tel. 0141 950903
http://www.vinchio.com
Cantina Sociale di Vinchio e Valle Serra Vigne Vecchie Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up nose-tingling spice mingled with some leather and a fair amount of alcoholic warmth; there's also an underlying greenness, and with more swishing spice and moderate red berry fruit. On the palate it's full, with warm jammy fruit that gains direction from moderate balsamic acidity and support from tannins that lay a warm cedary burr over the tongue and flow into a frankly cedar-laced finish with tannic bitterness. It's a child of the vintage, and the wood is stepping in effectively to provide what the grapes cannot; it will drink well with succulent roasts or hearty stews.
2 stars
Cantina Sociale di Vinchio e Vaglio Serra Sei Vigne Insynthesis Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is smoky, with some balsamic bitterness and spice as well, mingled with sea salt and a fair amount of alcohol. Not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with moderate rather bitter jammy red fruit supported by warmth and tannins that have an angry cedary burr and flow into a long warm cedar laced finish. It's oak, angry oak, and though it may fold in with time there isn't that much fruit for it to fold into. Because of its aggressiveness I would drink it with succulent roasts or flavorful stews.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Vicara
Visconti Cassinis Ravizza
15030 Cascina Madonna Rosignano Monferrato (Alessandria)
Tel. 0142 488054
http://www.vicara.it/index.html
Vicara Vadmo Barbera del Monferrato Superiore 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby -- poured ink -- with cherry rim. The bouquet is clean, with some green leather overlain by cedar, and warm spice; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with dusky red berry fruit that gains direction from warm citric acidity that emerges powerfully, and is supported by ample smooth tannins that flow into a clean fairly citric finish. It's richer on the palate, which is quite pleasant, than the nose, and I might give it a year for the nose to catch up; it will drink well with succulent red meats and hearty stews.
2 stars
Vicara Cantico della Crosia Barbera del Monferrato Superiore 2003
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is cooked, with berry fruit and prune jam mingled with some, well, plastic, which is likely fruit-wood interaction, while there is also some spice. On the palate it's full and soft, with ample prune fruit that gains direction from unexpected raspberry acidity, and is supported by ample smooth sweet tannins that have a greenish cedar burr, and flow into a fairly long warm finish. It's very much a child of the vintage, but does have enough unresolved anger and aggressiveness on the palate to allow it to match succulent red meats or hearty stews.
1 star
Pico Maccario SS
Via Cordara 87
Mombaruzzo
Tel 0141 774 522
http://www.picomaccario.com
Pico Maccario Tre Roveri Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2003
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar and spice overlying some green leather and warm berry fruit acidity, with hints of red berry fruit underneath. On the palate it's full, and languid, rather like an overstuffed cushion, with cherry prune fruit that's kept from settling into itself by moderate acidity, while the support comes from ample smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean soft jammy fruit finish. It's luscious in a soft key, and if you like big soft wines you will like it very much. Because of its softness it will drink better with drier meats.
2 stars
Cantina Sociale Mombercelli e paesi Limitrofi
Via Marconi 18
Mombercelli (AT)
0141 959 155
http://www.terreastesane.it
Cantina Sociale di Mombercelli Terre Astesane Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with rim paling to white. The bouquet is clean, with cedar and leaf tobacco overlying warm spice and some underbrush. On the palate it's full, with moderate fruit supported by mineral acidity, and by clean peppery spicy tannins that have slight menthol overtones and clearly derive from wood; the finish is tannic, warm, and peppery with underlying sour berry fruit. It's very much a child of the vintage, with wood covering for the fruit, and because of its angry aggressiveness it will drink best with succulent meats that require something to stand up to them, for example roast leg of lamb.
1 star
Tenuta La Tenaglia
Via Santuario di Crea, 5
15020 Serralunga Di Crea (Alessandria)
Tel. 0142 940252
http://www.latenaglia.com
Tenuta La Tenaglia Tenaglia E… Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2003
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with deep cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful and oaky, with cedar aromas and bitterness flowing out of the glass, and some underlying jammy berry fruit. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with moderately intense cherry prune fruit that gains direction from slight acidity, and is supported by massive tannins that guide from below the surface, leading into a clean prune and jammy berry fruit finish. The wood is quite apparent but doesn't predominate to the exclusion of all else, and if you like this big soft style you will like it; the tannins have just enough bite for it to work well with succulent, not too fatty red meats, or roasted white meats with flavorful sauces.
2 stars
Azienda Vinicola Ghignone
Via Tripoli, 19
14049 Nizza Monferrato (Asti)
Tel. 0141/721493
http://www.ghignonevini.it/
Ghignone Strambet Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2003
Fairly deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some green leather and hints of leaf tobacco with underlying mineral acidity that adds direction, and jammy berry fruit. On the palate it's full, with rather languid jammy prune fruit that's also fairly sweet, and gains direction from moderate prune acidity, while the tannins are ample and smooth, and have clean cedar overtones. It's big, and soft, like many other 2003 wines, though the finish is a little tighter, with acidity emerging to accompany the tannins as the fruit fades. Drink it with succulent drier roasts served with gravies or sauces -- turkey, for example.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Malvirà
Case Sparse Canova 144
Canale
Tel 0173 978 145
http://www.malvira.com
Malvirà San Michele Barbera D'Alba Superiore 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, with spice and some greenish notes mingled with spice and balsam, with underlying cedar and some jammy fruit. On the palate it's full, with moderate red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by tannins that have an angry cedar-laced burr, and flow into a warm cedar-laced finish. We're well on the way towards barrel slat, and because of its aggressiveness it will drink best with fattier roasts or stews that will benefit from something to clear the palate between bites.
1 star
Cantina Viticoltori del Monferrato
Via Centrale 27
Cerrina
0142 461 146
http://www.iuli.it/
Cantina Viticoltori del Monferrato Rossore Barbera Del Monferrato Superiore 2003
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, with greenish, frankly vegetal -- in the direction of stewed peppers -- red berry fruit supported by a pleasing combination of peppery spice and balsamic acidity with some leaf tobacco that provides depth. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's full, and smooth, with powerful slightly mentholated greenish red berry fruit supported by brisk acidity, and by tannins that have a warm cedar-laced burr. The greenness suggests problems with the ripening of the grapes, but the lack of obvious berry fruit jam is refreshing, and the wine has a muscular cheeky brashness to it that I found enjoyable. It will drink well with succulent red meats -- a porterhouse cut, for example, though that's more Tuscan than Piemontese. Worth seeking out.
2 stars
Cantine Viticoltori del Monferrato Barabba Barbera Del Monferrato Superiore 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is cooked, with stewed berry fruit and a fair amount of cedar; one can almost feel the heat of the vineyards rising from the glass. On the palate it's full and soft with ample smooth soft tannins that support stewed cherry prune fruit, and gain direction from a warm cedar laced burr. It's clearly a child of a hot vintage, and though the fruit is quite soft and far into overripe, there is enough cedar-laced backbone from the tannins to work well with roasts or stews. Direct, in any case, and I would drink it now rather than later.
1 star
Pavese Livio S.r.l.
Regione Bettola
15030 Treville (Alessandria)
Tel. 0142 487215
Pavese Livio Podere Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2003
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with deep cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is muted, of the windows shut and nobody home variety, though swishing does bring up some spice and slight herbal notes. On the palate it's full, and soft, with jammy prune fruit that gains direction from moderate prune acidity, and is supported by ample smooth soft tannins that have some cedar accents, and flow into a clean prune fruit finish. It's overripe, and quite soft, but manages a degree of grace, and if you like the style it is pleasant on the palate, though I would give the nose another year to develop.
1 star
L'Alegra Piroet Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with a fair amount of cedar mingled with moderate prune and red berry fruit, and more intense balsam and leaf tobacco. On the palate it's full, and warm, with ample soft red berry fruit supported by cedar laced tannins that lay a warm peppery burr over the tongue, and flow into a long warm berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. It's a child of the vintage, but not as overripe on the palate as I had expected from the nose, and though it's too aggressive to drink far from the table it will nicely complement a roast or stew.
2 stars
Cascina Castlet
Via Castelletto 6
Costigliole D'Asti (AT)
0141 966 651
Cascina Castlet Passum Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2003
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with black cherry rim -- poured ink. The bouquet is intense, with powerful oak balanced by peppery spice, some jammy berry fruit, and greenish vegetal overtones. Concentration! On the palate it's full, and soft, with moderately intense jammy fruit that is completely overshadowed by tannic bitterness from oak that flows into a fairly long bitter finish with some acidity that keeps it from settling. Too much wood, and not enough else for my tastes.
1 star
Cascina Castlet Litina Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2003
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and pigeon blood ruby rim. The bouquet has a fair amount of green leather and some leaf tobacco with underlying slightly balsamic spice and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's full, and overripe, with ample prune fruit supported by moderate acidity that is sufficient to keep it from flagging, and by spicy tannins that clearly owe a debit to oak, and flow into a long clean prune laced finish. It's big, and overripe, but does have backbone, and will drink well with succulent red meats or light stews.
2 stars
Fontanafredda
Via Alba 15
Serralunga D'Alba (CN)
Tel. 0173 613 161
http://www.fontanafredda.it
Fontanafredda Papagena Barbera D'Alba Superiore 2003
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is cedar laced, with strong smoky overtones -- it's like sniffing a toasted barrel slat, and with more swishing some greenish vegetal notes and balsam also emerge. On the palate it's full, almost the point of being syrupy, and soft, with moderate frankly generic jammy fruit supported by smoky notes and ample soft tannins that clearly derive from oak. Too much extraction and too much oak, for me, and the result is ham-fisted. In terms of accompaniments, drink it with drier roasts.
1 star
Tenuta La Fiammenga
Via Cantoglio, 28
14030 Penango (Asti)
Tel. 0141 917975
http://www.fiammenga.it
Tenuta La Fiammenga Paion Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with jammy cherry-blackberry fruit supported by balsam and greenish spice, and underbrush too. On the palate it's full, with bright jammy red berry fruit, a combination of cherry and currant, supported by strong acidity and by ample sweet cedar-laced tannins that have a slight greenish twinge to them, and flow into a clean, warm, slightly greenish spicy fruit-laced finish. It's a bit disjointed in an eager sort of way, like a hurrying child, and obviously the product of a hot vintage, but has pleasing zest and will drink well with succulent roasts or hearty stews -- leg of lam sounds nice, as does a Piemontese braised beef.
2 stars
Tenuta La Fiammenga Paion Barbera D'Asti Superiore Nizza 2003
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with black cherry rim; poured ink. The bouquet is fresh, and fairly rich, with intense jammy berry fruit supported by greenish bell pepper jam and hints of sandalwood that are unusual in a Barbera but work nicely, with underlying cedar-laced spice as well. Bright, in a hot vintage key. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with powerful prune fruit laced with red berries and supported by smooth strawberry acidity that flows into a clean sweet berry fruit finish. It's soft, which is an expression of 2003, but also has a fair amount of depth combined with acidity for direction, and will drink nicely with drier roasts served with gravies or sauces. I found it growing upon me. Worth seeking out.
2 stars
Azienda Sulin
Viale Pininfarnia, 14
15035 Grazzano Badoglio (AT)
Tel. 0141 925136
Agricola Sulin Ornella Barbera Del Monferrato Superiore 2003
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with purplish black cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly sweet, with jammy forest berry and prune fruit supported by nutmeg spice and some balsam, with considerable alcoholic warmth as well. On the palate it's full, with warm slightly sour cherry and forest berry fruit that's not as ripe as I'd have expected from the nose, and gains direction from bright berry fruit acidity and considerable alcoholic warmth, while the tannins that support have a pronounced peppery cedary burr that flows into a long warm peppery finish. It's disjointed, and very much a child of the vintage, with a greenish anger to it that likely derives from heat-stress caused problems in the ripening of the grapes. Because of its aggressiveness it will drink best with succulent roasts or rich, flavorful stews.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Noceto Michelotti
Reg. Noceto - Str. Bogliona, 15/17
14040 Castelboglione (Asti)
Tel. 0141 762170
http://www.nocetomichelotti.com
Noceto Michelotti Montecanta Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2003
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is frankly overripe, with jammy fruit supported by ample smoky balsam and alcoholic warmth. Quite charged, and more muscular than graceful. On the palate it's full, with overripe jammy prune fruit that gains direction from peppery, spicy acidity, and is supported by tannins that have powerful bitter oaky notes that carry into the finish. I found it excessive, too much extraction of too ripe grapes that draw too much from wood. But if you like big, heavily oaked wines you will enjoy it.
1 star
Pavia Agostino e Figli
Frazione Bologna 33
Agliano Terme (Asti)
Tel 0141 954 125
Pavia Agostino Moliss Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is smoky, with some hardwood ash and balsamic spice, with some green leather as well, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with spicy prune fruit supported by moderate acidity and by peppery tannins that clearly derive much of their substance from oak, and flow into a prune-laced finish. It's strongly overripe, but the tannins are aggressive enough that it's not soft, and it will therefore drink well with succulent red meats. If you like this big, overripe fairly brash and direct style you will like it.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Costa Dei Platani
Strada Maggiora, 89 15011
Acqui Terme (Alessandria)
Tel. 0144 56253
Costa dei Platani Maggiora Barbera del Monferrato Superiore 2003
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some prune fruit mingled with spice and underbrush, and hints of cocoa as well from wood. On the palate it's full and soft, with ample prune fruit supported by bright mineral acidity I hadn't expected from the nose, and by ample smooth sweet tannins that carry into a fairly long tannic finish with alcoholic warmth. It's big, and overripe, but not soft; the acidity sees to that, and as a result it will work well with succulent red meats or flavorful stews. I found it growing on me.
2 stars
Cantina Sociale Barbera Dei Sei Castelli
Regione Salere 6
Agliano Terme (AT)
Tel 0141 964 004
Cantina Sociale Barbera dei Sei Castelli Le Vignole Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with ripe red berry fruit supported by some spice, and by warm cedar with a fair amount of underlying alcohol and some balsamic overtones. On the palate it's full, with ample cherry prune fruit that's quite smooth, but gains direction from pleasant mineral acidity, and is supported by ample sweet tannins that work from below the surface, leading into a clean prune fruit finish that gains depth from spicy balsamic overtones and warmth. Pleasant, in an overripe key that reflects the vintage, and will drink well with succulent meats, either off the grill or out of the roasting pan, and also with hearty stews. Worth seeking out.
2 stars
Ferraris Luca
Via al Castello, 14
14030 Castagnole Monferrato (Asti)
Tel. 0141 292202
Ferraris Luca La Regina Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and purple highlights. The bouquet is warm and overripe, with jammy berry fruit laced with prunes, and supported by slightly balsamic peppery spice and green leather. On the palate it's full, and soft, with ample jammy prune fruit that gains direction from moderate mineral acidity and is supported by ample sweet smooth tannins that flow into a long warm acidic finish. It's not a wine I would drink far from a meal -- too warm in the finish -- but it will work nicely with succulent roasts, especially white meats with rich gravies, and the bottle could well go quickly.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Giorgio Cantamessa
Cascina Moncucchetto, 50
14032 Casorzo (Asti)
Tel. 0141 929139
http://www.moncucchetto.com
Cantamessa Giorgio La Pinota Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and black brick rim. The bouquet is wild, with considerable balsam and wet stable straw overlying peppery spice that rises up to tickle the nose. In a word, rustic. On the palate it's ample and full, with soft fairly sweet prune fruit that gains direction from just enough acidity to keep it from falling in on itself, and supported by ample smooth sweet tannins that work from below the surface and flow into a long soft prune finish. The contrast between nose and palate is quite surprising; I had expected it to be much more aggressive than it is -- instead, it's one of the softest wines presented at this year's Barbera Meeting. If you like big soft wines and this rather rustic aroma profile you will enjoy it very much. But it is unusual.
1 star
Dezzani F.lli
Via P. Giachino 140
Cocconato
0141 907 236
http://www.dezzani.it
Dezzani F.lli La Luna e Le Stelle Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2003
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is muted at fist swish, though more swishing brings up some spice and underlying cedar. Not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with moderate red berry fruit supported by angry tannins that have a greenish burr and flow into a hot tannic finish. It's a bit disjointed, and hasn't decided what direction it wants to go in; at present the tannins, and their oaky components, are overshadowing the fruit.
1 star
Dezzani F.lli Il Dragone Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2003
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is pungent, with leaf tobacco and green leather mingled with slight barnyard tang and balsam-laced spice. Not rustic, but not fruit driven either. On the palate it's full, with fairly generic ripe red berry fruit that gains direction from warm acidity that emerges as the fruit fades, while the support comes from ample fairly smooth tannins that flow into a clean slightly savory berry fruit finish. I'd have liked greater definition and richness on the nose, which is indecisive. This said, it will drink well with succulent roasts or light stews.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Canato Marco
Ca' Baldea 18/2
15049 Vignale Monferrato (Alessandria)
Tel. 0142 933653
http://www.canatovini.it/
Canato Marco La Baldea Barbera del Monferrato Superiore 2003
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and also a bit overripe, with fairly sweet prune fruit supported by greenish spice and berry fruit jam, with underlying cedar too. On the palate it's full, and soft, with ample prune cherry fruit that gains direction from deft mineral acidity, and is supported by clean smooth sweet tannins that work from below the surface. It's ample, and overripe, but not settled, though there isn't enough acidity for really hearty red meats. Rather, I'd serve it with roasted white meats with rich sauces or gravies, or perhaps light stews.
2 stars
Mongetto
Ca' Mongetto, 10
15049 Vignale Monferrato (Alessandria)
Tel. 0142 933469
Il Mongetto Guera Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby paling to purplish pink at the rim. The bouquet is overripe, with moderate cherry prune fruit supported by some berry fruit jam and by hints of gum Arabic and spice. On the palate it's full and soft, with jammy prune fruit that gains direction from just enough acidity to keep it from settling to the floor -- but no more -- and ample smooth soft tannins that work from below the surface. If wine were an overstuffed cushion this would be it; it's soft enough that I would only drink it with drier white meats, and do so soon, because it will settle further with time.
1 star
Cerutti Azienda Agricola
Via Canelli 205
Cassinasco (AT)
0141 851 286
Cerutti Foje Russe Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2003
Impenetrable pyrope with red brick rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with slightly balsamic red berry fruit supported by slight hardwood ash and spice, with underlying alcohol. On the palate it's ample, with jammy cherry prune fruit supported by warm acidity, and by ample smooth tannins that do have a slight greenish peppery purr, which is likely from oak. It's big, and soft, but does have the backbone necessary to work with succulent red meats, though I wouldn't age it for long. A child of the vintage.
2 stars
Poggio Paolo
Via Roma, 36
Brignano Frascata (Alessandria)
Tel. 0131-784829
Poggio Paolo Giuseppe Derio Colli Tortonesi Barbera Superiore 2003
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with deep black cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up nose tingling spice and some gum Arabic, with a fair amount of alcohol too. Not much fruit. On the palate it's full, and soft, with moderate, fairly generic fruit that's overshadowed by ample savory tannins that have a warm peppery burr, and lead into a fairly long tannic finish. I'd guess that the heat interfered with the ripening of the grapes, and wood was used to compensate for Nature's stinginess. Too much wood.
1 star
Bersano
Piazza Dante 21
Nizza Monferrato (AT)
Tel. 0141 720 211
http://www.bersano.it
Bersano Generala Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2003
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with red (not orange) brick rim. The bouquet is smoky, with a fair amount of balsam and some warmth with greenish overtones, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full, and soft, with ample prune fruit supported by moderate acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that work from below the surface. In a word, puffy, and if there weren't that hint of acidity it would settle. Because of its softness it will drink best with drier white meats, and I would do so sooner than later, because it will continue to soften with time.
1 star
Bersano Cremosina Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is a bit rustic, with an initial rush of balsam laced with nose tingling spice, hardwood ash, and barnyard tang -- wet stable straw, to be more precise -- and there is also some slightly pungent sweetness that resolves into greenish stewed fruit with continued swishing. On the palate it's full and quite soft, with ample prune fruit supported by just enough acidity to keep it from settling to the floor (it is similar to the other big soft cuscion, may be same winery?) and by smooth sweet tannins that have a warm burr, and flow into a fairly long warm finish. It's big, and smooth, and if you like the style it will work well with succulent, not too fatty red meats, though I would drink it sooner than later, because the acidity will fade with time.
1 star
Boffa Alfiero
Via Leiso 50
San Marzano Oliveto (AT)
0141 856 115
Alfiero Boffa Vigne Uniche Collina della Vedova Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2003
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with intense red berry fruit with jammy overtones supported by spice and some cedar. On the palate it's full, and fairly sweet, with powerful cherry prune fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity, which keeps it from flagging, and by smooth sweet tannins that have a fairly strong oaky component, and flow into a clean greenish cedar laced finish. It's direct in a fairly large key, and will drink well with succulent red meats thanks to its tannic structure.
1 star
Alfiero Boffa Vigne Uniche La Riva Barbera D'Asti Superiore Nizza 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, and fairly rich, with greenish berry fruit supported by spice and some underbrush with a fair amount of underlying bitter cocoa. On the palate it's full, and soft, with ample red berry fruit supported by slightly greenish tannins that have a cedar overlay, and flow into a fairly bitter finish. There isn't much acidity, however, and as a result it stands but isn't really perky, something I tend to value in a Barbera. Drink it with drier roasts or light stews.
1 star
Marenco Viticoltore in Strevi
Piazza V. Emanuele II
Strevi (Alessandria)
0144 364 108
Marenco Ciresa Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2003
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with ruby rim. The bouquet is bright, with considerable frankly vegetal spice laced with cedar and some sweet overtones with hints of petroleum as well. Not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with rich, very ripe red berry fruit supported by lively acidity, and by clean sweet tannins that have some cedar laced green notes, and flow into a fairly long clean greenish berry fruit finish that is again fairly sweet. It's rich, and given the greenish notes clearly a child of the vintage, though it isn't as soft or as overripe as many of the other wines poured. Because of this strength it will drink well with succulent roasts or hearty stews.
2 stars
Cantine Sant'Agata
Regione Mezzena 19
Scurzolengo (AT)
0141 203 186
http://www.santagata.com
Cantine Sant'Agata Altea Barbera d'Asti Superiore 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with moderate ripe berry fruit supported by considerable cedar bitterness that has some greenish accents as well, and by some underlying underbrush. Wood is clearly having its say. On the palate it's full, with brighter berry fruit than I might have expected from the nose -- there is ample citric acidity to provide direction -- supported by smooth tannins that have fairly distinct cedar overtones, and flow into a clean acidic finish. The wood is stunting the fruit -- the two simply don't get along -- and I doubt they will ever come to an agreement. Pity, as the fruit would have been lively and cheeky without the wood's calling it to heel.
1 star
Cantine Sant'Agata Cavale Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2003
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly green, with a warm underlay of cedar, alcohol, and some red berry fruit. On the palate it's full, and much brighter than I expected, with lively sour raspberry cherry fruit supported by brisk acidity, and by tannins that lay an angry cedary burr over the tongue that flows into a clean spicy finish with berry fruit overtones. In a word, zesty, and it will drink well with succulent roasts or hearty stews that beg something to clear the palate between bites. If you like studied smooth wines it won't work for you, but if you prefer the more aggressive traditional Barbera you'll find the bottle going quite quickly. Worth seeking out.
2 stars
Post dal Vin - Terre del Barbera S.C.A.
Via Salie, 19
14030 Rocchetta Tanaro (Asti)
Tel. 0141 644143
http://www.postdalvin.com/
Cantine Post dal Vin Castagnassa Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with lively cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is overripe, with stewed berry fruit mingled with graphite shavings and a fair amount of cocoa bitterness from wood. On the palate it's full and soft, with ample soft prune berry fruit supported by smooth soft tannins that have cocoa and cedar notes, and flow into a frankly tannic finish; in terms of acidity it's one of the least acidic wines of the tasting, and as a result is quite settled now, and will only settle further with time. Drink it with drier meats that will profit from its softness.
1 star
Cantine Post Dal Vin Bricco Fiore Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2003
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up prune-laced berry fruit jam mingled with airy spice and some greenish cedar. On the palate it's full, and soft, with moderately intense generic berry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by tannins that have a warm cedar laced burr, and flow into a fairly long warm tart finish. I'd have liked better definition to the fruit, which stumbles; this said, it will drink well with not too fatty succulent meats.
1 star
Bianco Maurizio
Via Canova Bassa 29
Costigliole D'Asti (Asti)
Tel. 0141 966278
Bianco Maurizio Carlin Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is a bit rustic, with balsamic notes and some wet stable straw mingling with hardwood ash, alcoholic warmth, sea salt, and underbrush. On the palate it's full, and smooth, with powerful prune fruit that has jammy overtones, and gains direction from moderate mineral acidity, while the tannins are ample and fairly sweet, with some cedar accents, and flow into a clean jammy fruit laced finish. It's big, and soft, but does have some backbone, and will drink well with drier roasts served with gravies or sauces, or with light stews.
1 star
La Contea
Vicolo Asilo, 13
12052 Neive (Cuneo)
Tel. 0173 677585
http://www.la-contea.it
La Contea Caplin Barbera D'Alba Superiore 2003
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with spice and greenish notes mingling with some hardwood ash and cedar, with some jammy red berry fruit too, but not much. On the palate it's full, with much of the fullness coming from wood, which backs up moderately intense, fairly dry red berry fruit that does have some acidity to keep it in line, but not much, and it all flows into a clean bitter finish. The wood is overlarge for the fruit, which is also a bit soft; this said it does have enough backbone to work well with succulent not too fatty red meats.
1 star
Accornero Giulio e Figli
Cà Cima
Vignale Monferrato (AL)
Tel. 0142 933 317
http://www.accornerovini.it
Accornero Giulio e Figli Bricco Battista Barbera Del Monferrato Superiore 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with stewed prune berry fruit supported by moderately intense spice and by some greenish cedar. On the palate it's full and soft, with ample prune cherry fruit that has jammy overtones, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins, while there is sufficient acidity to keep it from flagging; it all flows into a clean prune and berry fruit jam finish that is kept up by moderate mineral acidity. It's big, soft, and direct, and will drink well with succulent red meats.
1 star
Guasti Clemente e Figli S.P.A.
Corso IV Novembre 80
Nizza Monferrato (AT)
Tel 0141 721 350
http://www.guasti.it
Guasti Clemente Boschetto Vecchio Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2003
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry ruby rim The bouquet is fairly rich, and surprisingly young, with floral accents mingled with berry fruit jam and deft greenish spice; it's pleasant and invites a second sniff. On the palate it's ample and soft, with full jammy prune berry fruit that gains direction from moderately intense warm mineral acidity, while the tannic structure is smooth and fairly sweet; it all flows into a clean fairly sweet fruit laced finish that gains depth from cedar-laced tannins. Pleasant, in a luscious hot vintage key; by comparison with many of the other wines poured the nose is much more developed and interesting. It will drink well with slightly drier roasts, perhaps served with gravies or sauces. Worth seeking out.
2 stars
Guasti Clemente Barcarato Barbera D'Asti Superiore Nizza 2003
Impenetrable pyrope with red brick rim. The bouquet is muted, with some cedar and slight berry fruit with underbrush and slight green leather. On the palate it's full and soft, with jammy prune fruit supported by ample sweet tannins that have marked cedar overtones, and flow into a clean finish that is fairly bitter, as the fruit fades. Not much acidity at all, and as a result it is fairly settled now, and will only settle further with time.
1 star
Vigne Regali s.r.l.
Via Vittorio Veneto, 76
15019 Strevi (Alessandria)
Tel. 0144 362600
http://www.vigneregali.com
Vigne Regali Banin Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with stewed cherry prune fruit supported by some leaf tobacco and greenish overtones and some slightly dirty underbrush. On the palate it's full and soft, with ample prune cherry fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity, and by clean sweet tannins that lead into a fairly graceful tart berry fruit finish. The palate is more interesting than the nose, and the wine does have the wherewithal to work well with succulent red meats, though it remains very much the child of a hot vintage, and is fairly direct as well.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Marchesi Alfieri
Piazza Alfieri, 28
14010 San Martino Alfieri (Asti)
Tel. 0141 976288
http://www.marchesialfieri.it
Marchesi Alfieri Alfiera Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2003
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry stewed berry fruit mingled with greenish spice. On the palate it's full, and smooth, with warm berry fruit that has some vegetal accents, and is supported by ample smooth sweet tannins that have cedar overtones to them, and flow into a clean sweet finish that has deft greenish overtones. It's pleasant, in a direct, hot vintage key, and though the fruit is quite ripe it's not overly soft, while there is sufficient mineral acidity to hold it up, and as a result will drink well with succulent red meats or light stews.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Cattaneo Adorno Giustiniani
Via S. Defendente, 2
15020 Gabiano (Alessandria)
Tel. 0142.945.004
Cattaneo Adorno Adornes Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with pleasing, surprisingly young floral accents mingled with vegetal notes -- not quite grilled pepper, but in that direction -- and underlying cedar that provides depth, while there is also sweetness and some jammy prune berry fruit to provide depth. On the palate it's full and soft, with ample slightly greenish jammy prune berry fruit that gains direction from deft mineral acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that do have a greenish cedar-laced burr to them, and flow into a fairly long clean greenish berry fruit jam finish. It's a pleasant expression of a hot vintage, and will drink nicely with drier roasts, served with gravies or sauces -- I wouldn't go with something too succulent or rich, because it is fairly soft.
2 stars
Tenuta San Mauro
Località San Mauro, 1 -
Castagnole Lanze (Asti)
Tel. 333 8759382
Tenuta San Mauro Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with warm cedar laced spice supporting some greenish notes and hints of shellac; there's not much fruit, though further swishing does bring up some spicy prunes. On the palate it's full and quite rich, with powerful cherry prune fruit that gains depth from some greenish accents, and direction from mineral acidity, while the tannins are warm, smooth, and considerable, with a greenish cedar underpinning that carries through into a long warm finish with a fair amount of alcohol. It's pleasant, in a distinctly hot vintage key, and because of the acidity and power of the tannins will drink well with succulent roasts or stews.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Scarzello Giorgio E Figli
Via Alba, 29
12060 Barolo (Cuneo)
Tel. 0173 56170
Scarzello Giorgio Barbera D'Alba Superiore 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with red brick rim. The bouquet is cedar laced, with some jammy berry fruit as well, and some greenish overtones. On the palate it's full and soft, with ample red berry fruit supported by berry fruit jam, and by fairly brisk acidity, which provides direction, while the tannic structure is quite smooth, but ample and cedar laced; the finish is long and warm, with powerful prune overtones. Yet another child of a warm vintage, but it does have sufficient acidity to stand upright and feel fresh, and as a result will drink well with succulent red meats; if you like big, soft, fruit driven wines you will enjoy it. Worth seeking out.
2 stars
Parusso Armando
Località Bussia, 55
12065 Monforte D'alba (Cuneo)
Tel. 0173 78257
http://www.parusso.com
Parusso Armando Barbera D'Alba Superiore 2003
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, with fairly rich jammy fruit -- the word marmalade comes to mind -- supported by some cedar and slight greenish overtones. On the palate it's full, and soft, with ample cherry prune fruit supported by moderate acidity, that I might have liked more of, and by ample smooth soft tannins that do have a clean greenish cedary burr. There isn't quite enough acidity, and as a result it settles some; because of its softness I would drink it now with drier roasts, perhaps served with gravies or sauces. I wouldn't age it much longer, because it will only settle with time.
1 star
Cantina Sociale Mombaruzzo
Via Stazione 15
Mombaruzzo (AT)
0141 77 019
Cantina Sociale di Mombaruzzo Barbera D'Asti Superiore Nizza 2003
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is powerful, and elegant, with bright red berry fruit supported by pleasing greenish accents, and by deft spice that has some coriander overtones, and an underpinning of bitter cocoa. Quite a big going on in a hot weather key. On the palate it's full, and soft, with ample red berry fruit supported by considerable cedar-laced bitterness from the tannins, and by deft, though not really bright acidity that carries into a fairly long slightly bitter finish. It's pleasant in a hot weather key, and will drink well with succulent roasts or light stews.
2 stars
Cantina Sociale di Mombaruzzo Sorangela Barbera D'Asti Superiore Nizza 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some cedar laced with underbrush and some savory notes, but not much fruit. Airy, however, and as it opens some delicate red berry fruit emerges timidly. On the palate it's full, with considerably more fruit than I might have expected from the nose, bright red berry fruit supported by bitter sour cherry acidity, and by ample smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long fruit laced finish. It needs time, but will open nicely over the next few months; drink it with succulent roasts or light stews.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Gazzi Antonia
Strada Gavarra, 12
14049 Nizza Monferrato (Asti)
Tel 0141.793512
Gazzi Antonia Praiot Barbera D'Asti Superiore Nizza 2003
Impenetrable black cherry ruby with dark brick rim. The bouquet is oak laced with considerable cedar and some cocoa bitterness mingled with moderate vegetal notes and slight red berry fruit; with swishing the vegetal notes increase, but berry fruit really does not. On the palate it's full and very soft, with ample cherry prune fruit supported by just enough acidity to keep from settling to the floor, and by ample sweet tannins that derive from wood, and flow into a clean soft cherry prune finish. The Italian word that comes to mind is "morbidone," which means big and soft; because of its low acidity I would drink it with drier meats.
1 star
Malgrà Azienda Vitivinicola
Via Nizza 8
Mombaruzzo (AT)
Tel 0141 760 139
http://www.malgra.it
Malgrà Mora di Sassi Barbera D'Asti Superiore Nizza 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, and vegetal, with greenish notes and pungent underbrush mingled with hardwood ash and with some nose tingling acidity; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's full, soft, and strongly fruit laced, with ample jammy cherry prune fruit that gains direction from moderate mineral acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm sour berry fruit finish with slight smoky overtones. It gives an impression of being in mid-stride, with the nose working to catch up to the body, but will always be soft no matter, and as a result will work best with drier meats. This said, the fruit does have a cheeky grace to it I rather enjoyed. A nice expression of the vintage.
2 stars
Erede di Chiappone Armando di Chiappone Franco
Strada San Michele 51
Nizza Monferrato
Tel. 0141 721 424
http://www.eredichiappone.com
Erede di Chiappone Armando Ruby Barbera D'Asti Superiore Nizza 2003
Poured pyrope ink. One could write with it. The bouquet is shut tight, though swishing brings up some cedar, laced with hints of berry fruit and slight vegetal notes. It needs a few months. On the palate it's full, and very soft, with ample red berry fruit, a mix of raspberry and strawberry with some prune, supported by warm strawberry acidity, which flows into a clean cedar-laced berry fruit finish. It's big, fruit driven, and very soft; if you like this style you will like it very much, but I found myself wanting a little more backbone. Drink it with drier meats served with rich sauces.
1 star
Note: A second bottle was richer on the nose, with red berry fruit laced with spice and greenish overtones. The softness on palate is the same, however -- a product of the vintage -- and so is score.
Cascina Garitina
Via Gianola 20
Castel Boglione (AT)
Tel. 0141 762 162
http://www.cascinagaritina.it
Cascina Garitina Neuvsent Barbera D'Asti Superiore Nizza 2003
Impenetrable pyrope with violet rim; one could write with it. The bouquet is delicate, with floral accents and jammy prune fruit supported by some sweet spice. On the palate it's ample and soft, with jammy prune fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have slight greenish cedar overtones, while there is just a hint of acidity to keep it from settling as it flows into a jammy prune finish. It's very soft, and if you like this fruit driven style you will like it, but you have to like it, and as a style it only works (for Barbera) within the context of a very hot dry vintage. Drink it with drier meats.
1 star
Azienda Agricola La Gironda
Strada Bricco 12
Nizza Monferrato (AT)
Tel 339 388 5658
http://www.lagironda.com
La Gironda Le Nicchie Barbera D'Asti Superiore Nizza 2003
Impenetrable pyrope with violet rim; one could write with it. The bouquet is delicate, with floral accents and jammy prune fruit supported by some sweet spice. On the palate it's ample and soft, with jammy prune fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have slight greenish cedar overtones, while there is just a hint of acidity to keep it from settling as it flows into a jammy prune finish. It's very soft, and if you like this fruit driven style you will like it, but you have to like it, and as a style it only works (for Barbera) within the context of a very hot dry vintage. Drink it with drier meats.
1 star
Vietti
Piazza Vittorio Veneto 15
Castiglione Falletto (CN)
Tel. 0173 62825
http://www.vietti.com
Vietti La Crena Barbera D'Asti Superiore Nizza 2003
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense with delicate floral accents mingled with prune jam, moderate hardwood ash, and some underbrush. The palate is rich, with powerful slightly jammy prune and red berry fruit, supported by moderate acidity and by clean sweet ample tannins that have some greenish accents, and flow into a clean fruit laced finish. A fruit bomb, in a soft hot vintage key, but it holds together nicely and if you like this rich sort of wine you will enjoy it considerably; because of its softness I would drink it with drier meats served with rich gravies or sauces.
2 stars
Scrimaglio Franco e Mario
Strada Alessandria 67
Nizza Monferrato
Tel 0141 721 385
http://www.scrimaglio.it
Scrimaglio Acsè Barbera D'Asti Superiore Nizza 2003
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is delicate, and fairly pungent, with some floral notes mingled with hardwood ash and slight nose tingling acidity. On the palate it's ample and soft, with frankly lax red berry fruit, a combination of strawberries and prunes, that despite moderate acidity gives an impression of settling; there are tannins to provide support but they're tired too, and it all flows fairly quickly into a prune laced finish. Very much a child of the vintage.
1 star
Scrimaglio Croutin Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2001
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with black rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy red berry fruit supported by some spice and slight mentholated notes with hints of coriander, and underlying cedar. Pleasant. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful red berry fruit supported by clean sweet mineral and sour cherry acidity, and by ample smooth tannins that are a trifle lax; I'd have liked greater tightness than I found to it -- there is an underlying softness -- though it is fairly pleasant to sip. Because of its softness it won't work as well with fattier roasts or stews, though it will be nicely with drier meats, say roast turkey breast, served with a rich gravy.
2 stars
Cà 'D Carussin di Ferro Bruna
Reg. Mariano 27
San Marzano Oliveto (Asti)
Tel. 0141 183 1358
http://www.carussin.com
Carussin Ferro Carlo Barbera D'Asti Superiore Nizza 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with brick rim. The bouquet is delicate, with moderately intense berry fruit laced with vegetal spice and some jammy overtones, which are nowhere near as pronounced as in many of the other Superiori. The palate is similar, there's delicate red berry fruit supported by deft acidity, and by clean sweet tannins that have a slight burr. It represents, with respect to the general characteristics of the 2003 wines, a change in step, and is much lighter, with much less extraction and if anything underripeness (though it is fairly sweet -- simply the fruit is red greenish berry fruit, not prune). As such it likely reflects problems with the ripening of the grapes in that particular area, perhaps a total interruption due to heat stress. This said, I found it a refreshing change after a slew of big soft wines, with some steeliness in the backbone. It will drink nicely with simple quickly cooked red meats.
2 stars
Cossetti Clemente e Figli
Via Vittorio Emanuele II 19
Castelnuovo Belbo (AT)
Tel. 0141 964 921
http://www.cossetti.it
Cossetti Clemente e Figli Barbera D'Asti Superiore Nizza 2003
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with black cherry rim; it's almost poured ink. The bouquet is muted, with spice and prune jam emerging with swishing, coupled with some underbrush. On the palate it's full and quite soft, with ample cherry prune fruit supported by red currant acidity, and by ample soft tannins that have a slight burr to them, and flow into a fairly long sweet finish with tart fruit overtones. It's a child of the vintage, but displays both charm and grace, and has the acidity sufficient to drink nicely with succulent, not too heavy grilled or roasted meats.
2 stars
Cantina di Nizza
Strada Alessandria,57
14049 Nizza Monferrato (Asti)
Tel. 0141 721348
http://www.nizza.it/
Cantina di Nizza Ceppi Vecchi Barbera D'Asti Superiore Nizza 2003
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby. Muted nose, of the nobody home sort, though swishing does bring up moderate spice and some acidity. Not much fruit. On the palate it's full and soft, with moderate fruit supported by a rush of peppery spice that gives way to considerable citric acidity that rises up to tickle the back of the throat, and by ample soft tannins that flow into a fairly bright finish. It's disjointed, and though it may get its bearings with time there isn't that much fruit for it to build upon.
1 star
Villa Fiorita Azienda Agricola
Via Case Sparse 2
Castello di Annone (AT)
0141 401 231
http://www.villafiorita-wines.com
Villa Fiorita Il Giorgione Barbera D'Asti Superiore Colli Astiani 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, and though determined swishing sometimes brings things up it doesn't do much here; in the end there are hints of prune and some balsam. On the palate it's full, and soft, with ample jammy red berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by ample sweet tannins that flow into a clean cedar laced berry fruit finish. It's a child of the vintage, with all that this implies, but has sufficient fruit and acidity to drink nicely with succulent red meats, and will go quickly.
2 stars
Cooperativa Agricola Valli Unite S.c.r.l.
Loc. Montesoro, 1
15050 Costa Vescovato (Alessandria)
Tel. 0131 838100
Valli Unite Vighet Colli Tortonensi Barbera 2002
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and brick rim. The bouquet is a bit wild, and frankly vegetal, with green peppers and some animal hair mingled with barnyard tang and underbrush, and supported by some fairly bracing acidity. On the palate it's light, with fairly bright thin red berry fruit supported by clean bright vegetal acidity, and by smooth slightly greenish tannins. It's a tremendous change of pace after the richness of 2003, and is actually quite refreshing; it's not a wine to lay down or break out at a special occasion, but will drink nicely with quickly cooked red meats, and is pleasant in its lack of pretension.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Bricco Mondalino
Regione Mondalino
Vignale Monferrato
Tel 0142 933 204
http://www.briccomondalino.it
Bricco Mondalino Gaudium Magnum Barbera del Monferrato 2001
A Magnum bottle. The wine is deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense and a bit wild, with warm balsamic notes mingled with underbrush and some sea salt, and underlying barnyard tang. Rustic, but nice in this key. The palate is deft, though less bright than I expected, with slightly brambly red berry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity and by slightly greenish brambly tannins that flow into a clean slightly sour finish. As I said, it's bit rustic, though not tremendously so, and if you like this style it will drink well with succulent grilled meats or light stews, and you may find it going quite quickly, because it's unassuming and won't distract from what it's being drunk with.
2 stars
Bricco Monaldino Il Bergantino Barbera D'Asti 2001
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is clean, and rather vegetal, with greenish notes mingled with some spice and red berry fruit that has slight jammy overtones and hints of petroleum. On the palate it's full and soft, with ample sweet sour cherry fruit supported by red currant acidity, and by ample sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly sour berry fruit finish. It's direct, and in an odd way bashful, like a teenager hesitant before his (or her) date, but will drink very well with foods, in particular grilled meats or light stews, and there is sufficient acidity to make it a good bet with a platter of mixed fried meats and vegetables too. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars
Azienda Agr. Cascina Marcantonio
Strada Maggiora 140
15011 Acqui Terme (Alessandria)
Tel. 339 2280708
Cascina Marcantonio Barbera D'Asti 2001
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly smoky, with some berry fruit and berry fruit jam as well, though the combination is not as well defined as I might have liked, and there isn't much in the way of acidity. On the palate it's full, with bright red berry fruit supported by smooth slightly citric acidity, while the tannins are smooth and sweet; I found it a bit soft for my tastes, and though it will drink well with quickly cooked meats, or light roasts, I'd have liked more backbone from a 2001.
1 star
Cascina La Barbatella
Strada Annunziata, 55
144049 Nizza Monferrato (Asti)
Tel. 0141/701434
Cascina La Barbatella La Vigna dell'Angelo Barbera D'Asti Superiore Nizza 2001
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with spicy cedary notes and some red berry fruit laced with some greenish overtones. On the palate it's full and smooth, with fairly intense cherry prune fruit that has slight greenish jammy overtones, and gains direction from moderately intense berry fruit acidity, while the tannins have hints of underbrush and cut flowers to them, and flow into a clean bright finish. This said, there's something oddly settled to it; I'd have liked greater crispness and definition to the fruit, which is a trifle lax. A Superiore should be tighter.
1 star
La Caudrina
Strada Brosia, 20 12053
Castiglion Tinella (Cuneo)
Tel. 0141 855126
http://www.caudrina.it
Caudrina Montevenere Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2000
Deep pigeon blood ruby with almandine highlights and black reflections, and almandine rim. The bouquet is warm, with considerable greenish spice and warm berry fruit jam, and underlying belle pepper vegetal notes. On the palate it's full and quite soft, with ample plum-prune fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity that is sufficient to keep it from settling, and by smooth sweet tannins that do support the wine, but not that much; in one way it has a settled feel to it, but it also gives an impression of having achieved stability, in that it won't suddenly change at this point. I would drink it with fairly dry roasts.
1 star
Azienda Vitivinicola Bava
Strada Monferrato 2
Cocconato (AT)
Tel. 0141 907 7083
http://www.bava.com
Bava Stradivario Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2000
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is clean, with greenish notes and hints of cedar mingled with spice and balsamic overtones; there's also underbrush and some prune fruit. On the palate it's ample and quite soft, with full prune plum fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean prune finish. It's full, but at the same time cavernous; I'd have liked greater fruit than I found to fill the structure, which has a draft empty feel to it.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Terralba
Fraz.Inselmina, 13
Berzano di Tortona (Alessandria)
Tel. 0131/866791
Terralba Terralba Colli Tortonesi Barbera Superiore 2000
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with warm sour red berry fruit laced with balsamic acidity and some spice. On the palate it's full, with bright, unexpectedly (for me) intense red berry fruit supported by clean berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long clean berry fruit finish. Deft, and a nice expression of a hot vintage that has the softness that comes with heat, but also displays the lively, bright acidity that is a hallmark of Barbera coupled with considerable fruit. Drink it with succulent red meats off the grill or roasted, and expect the bottle to go quickly. Worth seeking out.
2 stars
Almost Wordless Wednesday: Between Here And There
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I took this shot during the Pelleginaggio Artusiano in the spring of 2011.
The mirror is somewhere between Castrocaro Terme and Portico di Romagna (on
the ...
12 years ago
