Brunello di Montalcino La Fortuna: A Vertical

La Fortuna is one of the older wineries in Montalcino, and unlike some, has always been managed by farmers: Mezzadri, or Tenant farmers to begin with; in 1907 Angiolino Zanoni, Gioberto Zanoni's great grandfather, grew seed crops and raised livestock, and his son Gino did so as well. The times were changing, however -- we were by now in the 50s -- and a great many people were leaving the land to take manufacturing jobs in the towns. Gino wanted none of that, and instead bought the land his family was farming from the landlord. Fast forward again to the 70s, when Gioberto, Gino's son, stepped in: There was growing interest in Brunello, the wine that had been developed by the Biondi Santi family, and Gioberto decided, with the help of his father, to try his hand at it. The first vintage was 1974.

It was an attempt worthy of the dawn of an era; Gioberto and Gino made the wine as best they knew -- cellar technique still consisted of putting the must in a vat and letting it ferment as it would -- and then aged it for the requisite 4 years in the botti they had, which were mostly chestnut. The result was, Gioberto says with the pride of a parent thinking back to a child, strambo, which means a bit goofy. But it was a beginning, and they persevered; the first vintage they continue to be really happy with was 1977.

The wines, tasted August 31 2007, with commentary woven in:

La Fortuna Brunello di Montalcino 1974
This was their first vintage, and Gioberto was proud to present it though he says it's "strambo," which means a bit goofy -- a wine that is a starting point, but that's that. The first really good vintage was 1977. Returning to the wine, it's almandine with Moroccan Leather highlights and rim fading into orange. The bouquet is fairly rich, and earthy, with considerable balsamic acidity supported by some raw beef and quite a bit of alcohol, savory accents, and underlying leaf tobacco. On the palate it's bright, with an oddly earthy acidity to it supported by earthy notes and tannins that have a dusty feel to them and flow into a tongue curling tannic finish that brings chestnut leaves to mind -- likely a gift of the wood it spent 4 years in per the regulations governing the DOC. It's very much alive, though in a coarse, disjointed way that comes as no surprise when one considers that it was their first vintage; it's a wine that was obviously a learning experience, but it does suggest potential. In short, for a wine lover it's a fascinating bottle to taste, because it opens a window onto a world long gone.

Thinking back, Gioberto says they made lots of demijohns and bottled a little Brunello -- bottling was almost with a funnel, while the botti were what one could get from the Consorzio, and the wood type indeterminate -- some oak, some chestnut.
1 star

La Fortuna Brunello di Montalcino 1978
Deep almandine with brownish reflections and almandine rim fading into orange. The bouquet is much richer than the 74, and much more controlled; the emphasis has shifted from making wine in bulk to making Brunello to bottle it. The vintage was good, but not great, Gioberto recalls, and they were beginning to select the grapes in the vineyards and manage the fermentation. The beginning of the shift towards quality. The bouquet is rich, with leaf tobacco and brandied cherries mingled with alcohol and spice with some savory accents. Very much alive, and several fellow tasters wonder what happened the interval from 1974. On the palate it's rich, with bright fruit supported by clean bright sour cherry acidity and smooth sweet tannins with some oak leaf accents that flow into a clean bright finish with dry tannic underpinning. Beautiful balance, and quite a bit more than head and shoulders above the 74. It's a wine one needn't be a wine lover to appreciate, and will contribute considerably to a meal built around a steak or roast beef.
2 stars

In 1985 they started fermenting in steel (before they used cement) and also began to work with wood to a greater degree.

La Fortuna Brunello di Montalcino 1985
This is the first vintage Gioberto really feels to be his. It's deep cherry ruby with elegant slightly orange ruby rim. Impressive intensity of color for a 20-year old Sangiovese. The bouquet is elegant, with surprisingly fresh cherry fruit mingled with berry fruit jam -- a fellow taster says amarene, which are sour cherries -- savory accents, India ink, and lacy overtones; the effect combines voluptuousness with slight distance, and is rather haunting. With time, caramel also emerges. On the palate it's rich, with bright red berry fruit supported by equally bright acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight burr to them, and flow into a clean bitter cherry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. It's quite graceful, and one would never guess it's more than old enough to vote; it brings to mind a ballet dancer, and is most impressive. A beautiful combination of power mingled with grace and voluptuousness; it's quite approachable, and in this isn't absolutely typical of older Brunello, which tends to be more reserved. But it is nice.
92

La Fortuna Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1990
This is a selection in the vineyard, and was their first attempt at a Riserva. Deep black cherry ruby with cherry rim that has brownish almandine accents. The bouquet is rich, though more mature than the 85's; it has more leather and leaf tobacco accents, and some pungent India ink as well, with underlying berry fruit. Gioberto says it was shaping up to be great, but they were hit by hail, and as a result they had to anticipate the harvest or loose everything. On the palate it's full, and rich, with slightly balsamic red berry fruit supported by smooth cedar-laced tannins that flow into a fairly warm clean slightly tannic finish. It's a much more classic expression of Brunello than the 85, which is a bit sweeter and more voluptuous -- here we have greater distance, and a wine that is more reserved. But elegant, and has a great deal to say, and improves with time most impressively. A pity that the hail hit because it did result in a slightly dilute feeling to the wine.
92

La Fortuna Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1997
Deep black cherry ruby with ruby reflections and rim. The bouquet is powerful, and quite fresh, with jammy berry fruit supported by violets and some floral accents, with hints of India ink bitterness as well. It's quite impressive, and very harmonious in a powerful key; it brings to mind a weight lifter who hasn't overdone it and isn't muscle-bound. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful red berry fruit supported by clean chewy tannins that have a slight burr to them and by clean bitterness; there is a little less acidity than other vintages, and also a hint of sweetness, and this is the ripening that we had in 1997 revealing itself. Many 1997 wines come across as over the top, while this instead toes the line, and is extremely pleasant, in a slightly more up front sort of way than "lesser" vintages are. In other words, great balance, elegance, and power, but not quite as much finesse, and this is a vintage variation of the sort that makes wines so interesting. It will in any case age very well, and should you come across a bottle that has been well kept, it will add joy to an occasion built around succulent red meats. Of the wines poured, it's the one that will be most appreciated by the widest variety of wine drinkers -- those new to Brunello will be excited, those who prefer tradition will find it, while those who prefer the more modern style will find things to appreciate too.
92-4

Though the Montalcino production area is small, there's considerable variation between the more northerly area where La Fortuna is located, and the hotter, drier zone towards Castelnuovo Abate, to the south. A number of the more northerly wineries have purchased vineyard area in the south, including La Fortuna, which bought its vineyards in 1996-7. Production began with the 2001 vintage.

La Fortuna Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep ruby with cherry reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy red berry fruit supported by alcohol and slight menthol with some cedar as well. It's still quite young, and though it is harmonious, it is still developing. On the palate it's full, and a bit sweet, with rich berry fruit supported by clean cedar laced tannins and considerable bitterness that emerges in the finish, which carries at length with dry tannins and some smoky accents. It's very young, and needs time to come together -- the tannins have some cedar and sea salt that at present are a bit forward, and need some time to reabsorb into the wine. Also, the sweetness is a bit of a surprise, and the tannic structure, if it holds as is, draws more from oak than I would like. This wine, unlike the earlier ones, draws from vineyards both in the northern section of the appellation and the south, near Castelnuovo Abate (where they bought some land), and has a different feel with respect to the others. The bouquet is elegant, but on the palate it does have these sweetish accents, which are likely at least in part related to a fairly high alcohol content, and I have the impression that they're still working out how best to mingle the northern and southern halves of the appellation -- it feels like a change in direction somehow, but the wine is also very young and judging it is like judging a toddler. I will be quite curious to follow it as it evolves.
2 stars

After the tasting proper, we went to dinner in a nice restaurant in Montalcino. As one might expect, Gioberto and Angelo served more Brunello.

2003 Brunello La Fortuna
Prerelease sample, bottled 2 months before tasting
Lively ruby with ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with violets and jammy berry fruit laced with some cedar, alcohol that is evident but not overbearing, and moderate acidity. Very young, and does reveal the summer heat. On the palate it's full, soft, and rich, with clean berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and considerable India ink bitterness that flows into a clean bitter finish. It's qite elegant, though a little lighter than I had expected, and there are slight greenish accents that are likely related to the way the grapes dealt with the summer heat. It's not a fruit bomb, nor is it overripe, problems that could have surfaced considering the vintage, and I found myself preferring it over the 2001. Expect it to age quite nicely, becoming ethereal with time.
88

La Fortuna Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep cherry ruby with ruby rim. The bouquet is rich, and young, with powerful berry fruit supported by alcohol, while direction comes from bitter accents and some graphite shavings. Voluptuous, with the brashness of youth. On the palate it's full, and rich, with red berry fruit supported by clean sweet tannins that have slight bitter accents and flow into a clean bitter finish. There's considerable elegance and finesse in a woefully young key, and though one could drink it now with grilled or stewed meats (we had the latter), it will richly reward those with the patience to give it the time it needs. Now it's a toddler, but in 5-8 years it will be most impressive, and go from there.
88 now.

Bottom Line: This is one of my favorite Brunello producers, and it was an honor to be invited to their tasting. For further information, check their site.

Lagrein, A Delight from the Südtirol

Italy has a great many varietals that are little-known outside their production areas, let alone further afield. In some cases this is a Good Thing, because the varietals aren't particularly good, at least as they're being cultivated -- they're just what has traditionally been grown in the area since time immemorial, and by now have adapted to the local conditions.

In others it's a great pity, and Lagrein falls into this class. The name sounds, and is, German, while the wine is a red or rosé produced primarily around Bolzano, in the Südtirol, and this invites a brief aside.

If you go north into the mountains from Verona towards Austria, you'll follow the valley of the Adige River, which is inhabited by Italian speaking people up to the city of Trento, whose province is called Trentino. Italians refer to what is north of Trentino as the Alto Adige, but the locals, who speak German, call the area the Südtirol. And indeed they were Austrian until the end of World War I, when the victorious Italians, who correctly considered a border at mid-valley to be indefensible, annexed the Austrian part of the Val D'Adige, up to the Passo del Brennero or Brennerpass. The Nazis did take it back during WWII, but following the war it was returned to Italy, and has actually made out very well since then, because the Italian Government, faced with a strong separatist movement, granted the Province of Alto Adige considerable autonomy and invested heavily in it. Buying off the enemy, one might say, but the ploy worked, because now a majority of the people living in the area would rather not return to Austria even if it were possible to do so.

Returning to Lagrein, there are two theories about the origin of the varietal. One holds that it came from the Val Lagarina, where, according to XIV century documents, a red grape was cultivated. The other says that the varietal is Greek in origin, from Lagara, a colony in Magna Grecia famed for a wine called Lagaritanos. To be honest, the former hypothesis seems easier to me, and therefore more probable, but I don't have any data to back up my opinion.

The varietal is in any case now grown in the province of Bolzano, and has adapted especially well to a specific set of cobbled slopes called Gries, which give, I was told, smoother tannins and greater finesse. Those lucky enough to have vineyards in the Gries say so on their labels, calling the wine Lagrein Gries (or something similar), while those whose lands aren't in the Gries simply call the wine Lagrein, adding, if they want, Dunkel, which means dark (i.e. red, as opposed to Lagrein Kretzer, the rosé).

There is Lagrein beyond Gries, of course, and a number of other areas within the appellation also give excellent results, including San Michele all'Adige, Mezzocorona, and Mezzolombardo.

And the wine? Red Lagrein, especially that from stony soils, tends to be a voluptuous dark ruby red, and quite mineral on the nose, with smoke and gunflint mingled with --and sometimes overshadowing -- forest berry fruit, a mixture of currants and blackberries with underlying plums, while the palate tends to be fruity, and buoyed by nice acidity, while the tannins are quite smooth. In short, they are clean, fresh fruity wines that drink quite well with simple red or white meats, and are also the sort of thing one could break out with roast poultry or other drier meats.

In terms of production, the maximum allowable yield specified by the Disciplinare for red Lagrein is 140 quintals/hectare, and the minimum alcohol content is 11%. The yield is high for the production of quality wine, and most producers harvest considerably less; with increasing concentration and richness of fruit the alcohol content is also often higher than the minimum.

The vintage wine is simply called Lagrein, and is released the year following the harvest; though a few producers use wood casks or barrels in producing it, many do not, preferring to mature the wine in steel or cement. There is also Lagrein Riserva, which must be kept for a minimum of two years prior to release, and here, as one might expect, the wine goes into wood, generally oak. Some use large botti, which allow oxygen to filter, but do not have much direct influence on the wine. Others instead use barriques, and I have mixed feelings about this, because I find that the nuances imparted by the small oak overshadowed the characteristics of the wine, both in the nose and on the palate. In other words, I don't think Lagrein benefits much from oak, and because of this I often found myself liking a producer's vintage wine better than his or her Riserva. Often, but not always; Lagrein aged in large oak can do very interesting things.

In terms of vintages, I tasted primarily 2006 and 2005 base wines; 2006 as a vintage was much better than 2005, which was wet and cool. Therefore the 2006 wines, as a group, show greater depth and finesse, while many of the 2005 wines are leaner. The Riserve were primarily 2004 and 2003, and here the tables were reversed; the 2004 vintage was quite elegant, whereas the 2003 vintage was hot in the Südtirol too. Finally, there were a couple of 2002 Riserve, and they impressed me quite favorably: one of the producers told me it was a good vintage for them, and I'd have to agree with him.

Red Lagrein, Tasted at the 2006 Vinitaly:

Gojer Franz Glögglhof
Via Rivellone, 1 39100 Bolzano - Italia
http://www.gojer.it/

Franz Gojer Glögglhof Südtiroler Lagrein 2006
Lot 6
Deep black almandine ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is delicate, with airy berry fruit supported by savory sea salt, hints of sandalwood, and hardwood smoke. Inviting. On the palate it's it's medium bodied, and bright, with savory red berry fruit supported by deft acidity and clean slightly brambly tannins -- the wine is aged in large wood -- that flow into a clean slightly bitter savory finish. Deft and elegant, it will go quite well with grilled meats and foods that have smoky accents, and could also be pressed into service with succulent grilled fish.
91

Franz Gojer Glögglhof Südtiroler Lagrein Riserva 2005
Prerelease sample
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with garnet rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, though in the air, with hardwood ash mingled with cedar and some oaky sweetness, and moderate berry fruit. On the palate it's full, and savory, with moderate fruit laced with sandalwood. The oak is a touch too predominate and overshadows the fruit, giving what a fellow taster calls "grip," but the fruit isn't as there as I'd have liked. It also suffered the vintage.
2 stars

Abbazia Di Novacella
Via Abbazia, 1 39040 Varna (Bolzano) - Italia
http://www.abbazianovacella.it/

Abbazia Novacella Südtirol Lagrein 2005
Lot 71.06
Deep black almandine ruby with violet rim. The bouquet is bright, with quite a bit of alcohol, some India ink, and hardwood ash minerality mingled with graphite shavings. Deft and inviting in an exotic way. On the palate it's medium bodied with bright mineral-laced fruit -- moderate berry -- supported by smooth sweet tannins. Quite elegant, and more about finesse than power. Drink it with grilled meats, light stews, and hearty soups.
2 stars

Abbazia Novacella Praepositus Lagrein Riserva 2004
Lot 70.06
Impenetrable pyrope with violet rim. Smoky bouquet with spice and sandalwood with peppery overtones; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with considerable oak that overshadows the fruit, laying down smoky warmth with savory overtones, and I found myself wishing the oak would lift to reveal the underlying fruit. But it didn't.
1 star

Josef Weger
Via Casa del Gesù, 17 39057 Cornaiano (Bolzano)
http://www.wegerhof.it/

Josef Weger Südtiroler Lagrein 2005
Lot 06233
Deep pigeon blood ruby with violet rim. The bouquet is fairly intense and smoky, with hardwood ash and cedar mingled with some minerality, peppery spice, and moderate underlying berry fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich smoky berry fruit supported by clean, warm cedary acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bitter finish with smoky overtones. Elegant, privileging finesse over power, and will work well with grilled meats or spicy stews -- goulash, for example.
2 stars

Thurnhof Tenuta Vitivinicola Berger Hans E Andreas
Via Castel Flavon, 7 39100 Bolzano
http://www.thurnhof.com/

Thurnhof Merlau Lagrein 2006
Barrel sample
Deep pigeon blood ruby; the nose is surprisingly rich, with aggressive spice and smoke mingled with warmth and minerality. On the palate it's bright, and mineral, with considerable warmth supported by cedar-laced tannins that owe at least some of their characteristics to the wine's being a barrel sample, and flow into a warm clean finish. It's promising, but too young to score.

Thurnhof Lagrein Riserva 2004
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is spicy, with quite a bit of wood smoke and peppery notes, but not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderate fruit supported by considerable minerality that flows into a clean sandalwood-laced finish. Fairly delicate, but I found it a touch dry, especially in the finish, which gives up lasting warmth. Drink it with red meats, or game.
1 star.

Mayr Josephus Erbhof Unterganzner
Via Campiglio, 15 39053 Cardano (Bolzano)
Tel. 0471 365582- Fax 0471 365582

Josephus Mayr Südtiroler Lagrein Riserva 2004
Lot 1-A
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with violet rim -- poured ink. The bouquet is smoky, and spicy, with India ink and cedar mingled with minerality and red berry fruit. On the palate it's full and elegant, with rich bitter minerality and berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and warmth. Great finesse and considerable elegance; worth seeking out.
2 stars.

Josephus Mayr Lamarein Vino Da Tavola
This is made like an Amarone, drying the grapes after the harvest, and pressing them in December, and since no local appellation allows this it's a plain table wine, though this particular bottle was made (in minute quantities) from the 2004 harvest. It's deep pigeon blood ruby with violet rim, and has a fairly rich bouquet with spice and iodine mingling with red berry fruit and delicate cedar. On the palate it's fuller and richer than a Lagrein, with bright sour berry fruit supported by graphite-laced tannins that are quite smooth, and by deft acidity that keeps it all in line. Pleasant, and will contribute nicely to a meal built around a hearty roast or stew.
88-90

Mumelter Georg - Griesbauerhof
Via Rencio, 66 39100 Bolzano
http://www.tirolensisarsvini.it/

Griesbauerhof Südtirol Lagrein Riserva 2004
Lot 9
Impenetrable pyrope ruby -- poured ink -- with deep pyrope rim. The bouquet is muted; with swishing iodine and sea salt emerge mingled with peppery spice. On the palate it's full enough, with moderate bitterness and minerality, though I found it lacking in finesse, and thought it a bit plump. Drink it with red meats.
1 star

Greisbauerhof Georg Mumelter Südtirol Lagrein 2005
Lot 7
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with ruby rim. The bouquet is slightly animal, with iodine and sea salt mingled with wet fur and some spice. Eye opening. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderate berry fruit supported by fairly bright bitter minerality and moderate warmth, with clean bitter overtones and quite a bit of graphite that carries into a warm clean finish. It will drink well with roasts or stews, but you have to like this style.
1 star

Popp Maso - Menz Andreas
Via Terzo di Mezzo, 5 39020 Marlengo (Bolzano)
http://www.popphof.com/

Andreas Menz Doc Popphof Südtiroler Lagrein-Merlot 2004
Lot 0406
This is a blend of 30% Merlot and 70% Lagrein, and is deep pigeon blood ruby with dark garnet rim. The bouquet is interesting, with a mixture of mineral graphite and some black currant fruit supported by moderate acidity and some hardwood ash. On the palate it's fuller and softer than straight Lagrein, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by clean graphite-laden tannins that flow into a clean smooth finish. Pleasant, and a bit more approachable than some Lagrein tour court; it will drink well with roasts or stews.
2 stars

Laimburg Cantina - Podere Provinciale
39040 Ora-Vadena (Bolzano) - Italia
http://www.laimburg.bz.it/

Imported to CA by Vitis Imports and to CT by Angelini Wines

Laimburg Südtirol Lagrein 2005
Lot 0603 BL
Deep black cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is bitter, with smoke and animal hair -- wet horse -- mingling with considerable warmth. On the palate it's full, and softer than the nose suggests, with bitter minerality that gains definition from acidity and fairly sweet tannins that do reveal large wood, and flow into a clean bitter finish. Graceful, and though it's not really tight, it will drink well with succulent red meats.
2 stars

Laimburg Barbagol Lagrein Riserva 2003
Lot 0608BL
Deep black almandine. The bouquet is smoky, with some cedar and spice, and underlying warmth. Bracing in a bitter way. On the palate it's medium bodied with fairly bright minerality supported by bitter overtones that flow into a clean bitter finish. It grew on me; my initial impression was "ho-hum," but I found myself finishing the sample in my glass. Drink it with succulent red meats.
2 stars

Tenuta Kornell
Via Bolzano, 23 39018 Settequerce (Bolzano)
http://www.kornell.it/

Kornel Greif Lagrein 2005
Lot 31006
This is aged in botti and old barriques after fermentation in steel; it's deep black cherry ruby and has a nicely balanced spicy bouquet laced with berry fruit and hardwood ash. On the palate it's bright, with moderate minerality supported by clean sweetish tannins and a fair amount of acidity that flow into a clean finish. It's quite direct and quite easy to drink, and will work well with foods. Refreshing, and expect the bottle to go quickly.
2 stars

Niedermayr Josef - Azienda Vinicola
Via Casa di Gesù, 15 39050 Cornaiano Sulla Strada Del Vino (Bolzano)
http://www.niedermayr.it/

Niedermayer Lagrein Aus Gries 2005
Lot 30/11/06
Deep pigeon blood ruby with ruby rim. The bouquet is mineral, with iodine and some spice mingled with moderate acidity. On the palate it's moderately intense, with pleasing minerality that flows into a frankly mineral finish; it's direct, and will drink well with foods, without striving for the limelight. Expect the bottle to go quickly.
1 star

Niedermayr Südtiroler Lagrein Aus Gries Biacedelle 2005
Lot not apparent
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is a bit wild, with stable straw and spice mingled with warmth and smoke. On the palate it's medium bodied, and fairly rich, with pleasant berry fruit that gains direction from bright acidity (a characteristic of the vintage), and is backed by clean minerality and warm cedar-laced tannins that flow into a clean dry tannic finish. It's much defter than the Base, and will drink well with red meats or light stews, especially if served with polenta.
2 stars

Niedermayr Südtiroler Lagrein Aus Gries Riserva 2004
Lot 24/10/06
Poured ink with violet rim. The bouquet is smoky, with iodine and strong smoke; the impression is penetrating, and there isn't much fruit. On the palate it's full and fairly soft, with quite a bit of oak that overshadows the minerality of the grape, and leads into a long warm oak-laced finish. It gives an impression of trying very hard to be a Wine, and I find the attempt a bit too much.
1 star

Bolzano Cantina Produttori - Santa Maddalena - Gries
Piazza Gries, 2 39100 Bolzano
http://www.cantinabolzano.com/

Bolzano Cantina Sociale Collection Südtirol Lagrein Grieser 2005
Lot 7/079
Grieser is the location of the vineyard; the wine is deep black almandine with back reflections, and has a fresh bouquet with a fair amount of berry fruit mingled with India ink and some spice. Pleasant. On the palate it's light, with bright berry fruit laced with sandalwood and graphite, and supported by clean mineral acidity that flows into a slightly bitter finish. Very drinkable.
2 stars

Bolzano Cantina Sociale Südtirol Lagrein Taber Riserva 2001
Lot L6129
Deep pigeon blood ruby with violet rim. The bouquet is clean, with minerality and spice mingled with graphite and some iodine; nice balance. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful red berry fruit laced with graphite bitterness and supported by clean mineral acidity that flows into a long warm finish with spicy mineral overtones. Quite elegant, and will drink well with succulent roasts or stews, especially if accompanied by polenta.
88-90

Terlano Cantina
Via Silberleiten, 7 39018 Terlano (Bolzano)
http://www.kellerei-terlan.com/

Terlan Lagrein DOC 2005
Lot 06340
Deep pigeon blood ruby with brick red rim. The bouquet is medicinal, with India ink and some spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, and quite direct, with moderate minerality supported by clean acidity and smooth tannins that flow into a clean bitter finish.
1 star

Terlan Lagrein Gries Riserva 2004
Lot 07009
Poured pyrope ink with dark rim. The bouquet is smoky with some iodine and sea salt laced with underlying bitterness. On the palate it's medium bodied and spicy, with warm peppery acidity that has an underlying bitter tartness to it, and flows into a clean bitter finish. I found it overcharged, and thought that it lumbered some.
1 star

Terlan Lagrein Porphyr Riserva 2004
Lot 06215
Poured pyrope ink, and has a spicy bouquet with cedar and some greenish vegetal accents mingled with sandalwood and warmth. Not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with ample minerality supported by cedar and acidic warmth that flow into a warm finish. It comes across as trying too hard.
1 star

Ansitz Pfitscher - Tenuta Vini - Pfitscher Klaus
Via Gleno, 9 39040 Montagna (Bolzano)
http://www.pfitscher.it/

Ansitz Pfitscher Lagrein Kotznjoater 2005
Lot 182
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, with cherry fruit supported by minerality and some underbrush with smoky sea salt spice that gains with swishing. On the palate it's deft, with bright berry fruit supported by clean sandalwood tannins that are quite smooth and flow into a clean bitter sandalwood finish. Pleasant, one of the Lagreins I liked best, and will drink well with roasts or stews.
2 stars

Andrianer Kellerei Gen.landw.Ges. ·
Kirchweg 2 · I-39010 Andrian (Bolzano)
http://www.andrianer-kellerei.it/

Adrieaner Kellerei Südtiroler Lagrein 2005
Lot 07/065
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with moderate cherry fruit supported by clean sandalwood spice and some alcohol and acidity. On the palate it's medium bodied, and dry, with moderate cherry plum fruit supported by clean sweet tannins that flow into a clean finish. It's direct, but will drink nicely with simple meat dishes ranging from quickly cooked meats through light stews. Pleasant.
2 stars

Adrianer Kellerei Selection Sonnegut Südtiroler Lagrein Riserva 2004
Lot 07/011
Deep cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, with some berry fruit that emerges, mingled with cedar, after quite a bit of swishing -- it's bottle shocked. On the palate it's full, and fairly rich, with warm berry fruit supported by clean tart acidity and tannins that throw a glancing wash over the tongue, and flow into a clean dry finish. I found it less full than the 05, and this is also due to the influence of wood, which overshadows somewhat. Drink it with succulent red meats.
1 star

Adrianer Kellerei Tor di Lupo Lagrein Riserva 2004
Lot 06/296
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, with some sandalwood and smoke, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full and quite soft, with warm, fairly acidic berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have mineral accents and flow into a clean mineral finish. Pleasant, and will drink well with stewed game, or hearty, fatty red meats.
2 stars.

Adrianer Kellerei Südtiroler Lagrein Bioland 2005
Lot 07/65
This is organic; it's impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim, and has a young bouquet with hints of violets mingled with spice and warmth; it's still closed, though with more swishing mineral acidity and berry fruit also emerge. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly light plum fruit supported by sandalwood-laced tannins that gain direction from bright acidity and flow into a clean dusky tart finish. Pleasant in a light key, and will drink well with simple foods, ranging from elegant burgers through lamb chops.
2 stars

Braunbach - Cantina Vini E Spumanti
Via Padre Romedius, 5 39018 Settequerce Terlano (Bolzano)
http://www.braunbach.it/

Von Brauback Call Div Lagrein Dunkel 2005
Lot 07
Deep black almandine with dusky cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with mineral notes mingled with hardwood ash and sea salt, and underlying plum fruit. On the palate it's light, and graceful, with fairly rich plum fruit supported by sweet smooth tannins that lay a warm wash over the tongue and flow into a clean berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. The considerable warmth in the finish makes the wine less graceful than it was in the attack, and also is such that I wouldn't open it far from the table, though I would enjoy it with a succulent roast or stew that requires something to balance it.
2 stars

Castel Sallegg
Vicolo di Sotto, 15 39052 Caldaro (Bolzano)
http://www.castelsallegg.it/

Castel Sallegg Alto Adige Lagrein Riserva 2003
Impenetrable pyrope ruby -- poured ink. The bouquet is pungent, with underbrush and plum fruit laced with smoke and some minerality, and underlying sandalwood. On the palate it's full, and very smooth, with moderate fruit and clean sweet tannins that gain direction from minerality and flow into a clean mineral finish with fruit acidity. Pleasant in a rather reserved way, and will drink well with roasts or stews; it's more austere than many of the wines.
1 star

Castel Schwanburg
Via Schwanburg, 16 39010 Nalles (Bolzano)
http://www.schwanburg.com/

Castel Schwanburg Lagrein Riserva 2004
Lot 301? (last number blurred)
Deep cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with berry fruit and considerable spice supported by a fair amount of black pepper, mingled with sea salt and India ink; the combination brings to mind dusky shade. On the palate it's full, and quite soft, with moderate plum berry fruit supported by warmth and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean tart finish with lasting warmth. A pleasant food wine that will drink well with roasts or stews, including game.
2 stars

Hofstätter Josef - Tenuta Weingut
Piazza Municipio, 7 39040 Termeno (Bolzano)
http://www.hofstatter.com/

Hofstäter Lagrein 2006
Lot 10607A
Pale brick ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is somewhat closed, though swishing brings up sandalwood mingled with tart acidity, minerality, and some underbrush. On the palate it's fairly bright, with moderate berry fruit supported by bright, fairly mineral acidity that flows into a clean tart warm finish. Pleasant, and will drink well with simple grilled meats; it will go quickly in the proper setting.
1 star

Steinraffler Lagrein 2002
Lot 42804A
This is a selection named after the vineyard, which is rocky. The bouquet is dusky, with underbrush and a fair amount of acidity laced with bitter cedar. On the palate it's light and peppery, with moderate fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean finish. It's lean, and this is an effect of the vintage, while the use of large wood rather than barriques saves it, as barriques would have overpowered it. As it stands it's graceful in a clean key, and speaks nicely about both the varietal and the winemaker who drew quite a bit from a difficult situation.
2 stars

Walch Wilhelm
Via A. Hofer, 1 39040 Termeno (Bolzano)
http://www.walch.it/

Wilhelm Walch Südtirol - Alto Adige Lagrein 2006
Lot 070742
Rich brick ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is a bit funky, with warmth and hints of stable straw mingled with tart acidity and some gunflint. On the palate it's light, and quite smooth, with bright berry fruit supported by clean sweet tannins that flow into a clean warm finish. Quite direct, and will drink well with quickly cooked meats, including, because of its warmth and acidity, fried foods. It will go quickly in the proper setting.
1 star

Elena Walch Castel Ringberg & Kastelaz
Via A. Hofer, 1 39040 Termeno (Bolzano)
http://www.elenawalch.com/

Elena Walch Lagrein Alto Adige 2006
Lot 070741
Deep black cherry ruby with ruby rim. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up tart berry fruit supported by peppery spice with mineral accents that come to overshadow the fruit as the wine opens. On the palate it's full and soft, with bright berry fruit supported by quite a bit of acidity that flows into a warm clean finish with some underbrush. It's a bit evanescent, and bring to mind a person who is withdrawing.
1 star

Elena Walch Castel Ringberg Alto Adige Lagrein Riserva 2003
Lot 5215/? (blurred)
Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim. The bouquet is smoky with hardwood ash and quite a bit of cedar mingled with sweetness from oak, and clean brambly notes, though there isn't much fruit. On the palate it's full and quite soft, with ample plum fruit that likely derives its nature from the heat of the vintage, while support comes from smooth tannins with an oaky underpinning that flow into a clean finish. It's well made but the wood overshadows the fruit, especially on the nose, bringing to mind a flower bed with a tarp thrown over it. This is in part the vintage, and I would expect less ripe vintages to be more fruit driven.
1 star

Rottensteiner Hans Casa Vitivinicola
Via Sarentino, 1/a 39100 Bolzano
http://www.rottensteiner-weine.com/

Rottensteiner Südtiroler Lagrein Riserva 2004
Lot 1706
Deep cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, with swishing bringing up some spice but not much else; it brings to mind a person hugging her knees, head down. On the palate it's quite soft, with moderate berry fruit supported by warm minerality that flows into a clean tart sour finish. It's lacking in fruit on the palate too, and though this may be a phase it also may not; yields are fairly high, between 100 and 120 quintals/hectare, and this may be too much..
1 star

Rottensteiner Select Lagrein Dunkel Grieser Südtiroler
This is a selection made form vines at least 20 years old, following a green harvest to reduce yields to 80-90 quintals hectare, and it also spends 12 months in barriques. It's deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim, and has a smoky, somewhat metallic bouquet with considerable spice. On the palate it's full, with moderate fruit and quite smooth, flowing into a clean finish. It isn't as rich nor as incisive as I might have hoped.
1 star

Lun H. - Cantina Vini
Via Villa, 22/24 39044 Egna (Bolzano)
http://www.blogger.com/www.lun.it

H. Lun Südtirol - Alto Adige Lagrein 2005
Lot 05 126
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly deft, with spice mingled with red berry fruit and sandalwood, with underlying underbrush and slight animal tang. Pleasant. On the palate it's medium bodied with clean rich fruit supported by very smooth tannins that flow into a clean smooth finish; the effect is quite polished. Quite smooth, surprisingly so for a Lagrein, and is a good one to try if you're new to the varietal and like smoother, softer red wines. It will drink well with succulent red meats, because despite it smoothness there is some warm berry fruit acidity to keep it up.
2 stars

H. Lun Albertus Lagrein Riserva 2004
Lot 26056
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit laced with fairly intense oak -- they use a combination of large and small wood for 12 months -- and some sandalwood warmth too. It's not as interesting as the Base. On the palate it's full, and smooth, with moderate fruit that gradually gives way to cedar, though not completely, and flows into a clean dry finish. It's pleasant enough, but the oak gets in the way for me, polishing it overmuch.
1 star

Sölva Peter & Söhne Tenuta
Via dell'Oro, 33 39052 Caldaro (Bolzano)
http://www.soelva.com/

Peter Sölva Lagrein Fassprose 2006
Barrel Sample
This is from a 50-year old vineyard, and is fermented and aged in steel; no wood. It's lively cherry ruby with almandine rim, and its bouquet is pleasant for a barrel sample, with a fair amount of berry fruit and some animal tang. A work in progress. On the palate it's full, with rich berry fruit that has clean bitter notes and tannins that have a clean sandalwood burr and flow into a clean bitter finish. It promises well, though it's not ready to be scored yet.

Peter Sölva De Silva Lagrein Edizione 2004
Lot LO9171
This is a cru from a 65 year-old vineyard, and spends time in a mixture of large and small wood. The bouquet is moderately intense, opening to reveal tart acidity and brambly notes but not much fruit; the impression is dusky. On the palate it's full and bright, with fairly intense cherry plum fruit supported by considerable acidity and some cedar from wood that wraps the wine up, carrying it into a fairly quick finish with oaky overtones. It's quite young and needs a year to get its bearings, at which point it will drink quite well with succulent meats, or game. The score reflects today, not tomorrow.
1 star

Mayr Thomas Cantina Vini
Via Mendola, 56 39100 Bolzano
http://www.mayr.cjb.net/

Thomas Mayr Südtiroler Lagrein Dunkel 2004
Lot 2495
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with brambly red berry fruit backed by a fair amount of alcohol and spice, with clean underlying smoky notes. Classic. On the palate it's fairly full and graceful, with elegant red berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean finish, while direction comes from deft acidity. Quite pleasant, and will drink well with roasts or stews, including dishes made with game.
88-90

Thomas Mayr Südtiroler Lagrein 2005
Lot 2729
Deep black cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is a bit wild, with hardwood ash and acidity mingled with brambles and some bitter accents; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's light, with moderately intense generic berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean finish. It's quite direct, and I found myself wanting more fruit at the outset, though the strawberry acidity that emerges in the finish, carrying at length, caught my attention and I found, as I sipped again, the wine growing on me. It holds together quite nicely and invites reflection.
2 stars

Lentsch H. Tenuta
Via Nazionale, 71 39051 Bronzolo (Bolzano)
http://www.lentsch.it/

H. Lentsch Morus Südtiroler Lagrein 2003
Lot 0606
This is from a porphyritic terrain. It's deep black almandine with brick rim, and has a dusky bouquet with some spice and underbrush mingled with clay and minerality, but not much in the way of fruit. On the palate it's full, with the fullness more mineral than fruit driven, supported by bright acidity that flows into a warm fairly long peppery finish. It's a bit direct, and I found myself wanting more fruit.
1 star

Merano - Cantina Vini Soc. Agricola Coop.
Via S. Marco, 11 39012 Merano (Bolzano)
http://www.meranerkellerei.com/

Meran Sanct Gereon Lagrein Südtirol 2004
Lot 0715
Deep black cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with smoky notes and some spice that gains direction from tart acidity. Not much fruit. On the palate it's full and smooth with moderate fruit and a fair amount supported by moderate acidity. Fairly direct.
1 star

Meran Segen Lagrein Riserva 2002
Lot 4103
This wine spent 12 months in barriques, it's deep ruby with cherry rim and has a frankly oaky bouquet with some spice. The vintage was light and there's a lot of wood, which overshadows it. On the palate it's fairly full, with moderate fruit overlain by sweet vanilla from oak, and it all flows into a warm peppery finish. I found it nondescript, and this is a problem related to the vintage, I think.
1 star

Brigl Josef - Cantina Vini
Via Madonna del Riposo, 3 39057 S. Michele - Appiano (Bolzano)
http://www.brigl.com/

Brigl Südtiroler Lagrein Riserva 2004
Lot 6148
Deep cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and tart, with sour berry fruit acidity supported by sandalwood spice and warmth. The palate is fairly rich, with bright berry fruit supported by clean sweet tannins and moderate acidity that carry into a warm fruit-laced finish. The tannic structure is a touch lax, but the wine is pleasant, and will drink well with foods.
1 star

Brigl Südtiroler Lagrein Riserva Briglhof 2004
Inky pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful and dusky, with cedar mingling with red berry fruit and smoky spice; the fruit is overshadowed at present. On the palate it's full, with moderately rich berry fruit supported by warmth, sandalwood, and moderate acidity -- the wood has blanketed it and it flows into a dry finish. It's heavily oaked but there is underlying fruit that may handle it given another year; it is in any case quite polished, a bit too polished for me.
1 star

Caldaro Kaltern Kellerei
Via Cantine, 12 39052 Caldaro (Bolzano)
http://www.kellereikaltern.com/

Kaltern Südtirol Lagrein 2005
Lot 6347
Deep black cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with unusual violets mingled with mint and warm almost jammy berry fruit, with underlying sandalwood. A log going on in a brightly colored package. On the palate it's fruit driven, with bright plum berry fruit supported by deft acidity and tannins that have warm peppery notes and flow into a warm, spicy fruit laced tannic finish. It's unusual, and much brighter than the norm; it will drink well with succulent grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

Caldaro Kaltern Kellerei Spigel Lagrein 2005
Lot 7031
Deep cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, and seems overconcentrated, with overripe red berry fruit that has strong jammy accents mingled with smoke and considerable sandalwood spice, with some underlying brambles. It's on steroids. On the palate it's full, and powerfully fruit driven, with fairly sweet berry fruit and acidity supported by tannins that have clean sandalwood overtones and flow into a fairly sweet tannic finish. It's particular, in an overcharged way, and if you like this style it will drink well with succulent roasts and stews, and because of its sweetness, which smoothes the tannins, it will also work well with spicier foods. Takes no quarter.
2 stars

Tiefenbrunner
Via Castello, 4 - Niclara 39040 Cortaccia (Bolzano)
http://www.tiefenbrunner.com/

Tieffenbrunner Castel Turnhof Lagrein 2005
Lot 7057
Lively cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright red berry fruit supported by clean spice and some wood smoke with hints of sandalwood. On the palate it's full, rich, and quite smooth in a crisp clean style with bright berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and tannins that have a warm spicy burr and flow into a clean spicy finish with peppery overtones. Pleasant, and will drink quite well with red meats or light stews; if you like the style it will go very fast.
2 stars

Tiefenbrunner Linticlarus Lagrein Riserva 2004
Lot 5298
Deep cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, with cherry fruit supported by powerful cedar that has some bitter accents and is laced with hardwood ash and greenish notes. It comes across as quite technical, owing much of its character to the cellar. On the palate it's full and fruit driven, with ample rich berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright finish. The nose is still finding itself, but the overall impression is one of considerable rich fruit driven elegance in a forward, international style. I found it quite pleasant, and it is a wine worth seeking out if you like this style.
2 stars

Tramin Kellerei Cantina 1898
Strada del Vino, 144 39040 Termeno (Bolzano)
http://www.tramin-wine.it/

Tramin Südtirol Lagrein 2006
Lot 07079
Deep pigeon blood ruby. The bouquet is very fresh, with violets and prunes that are almost jammy mingled with spice and sandalwood that are overlain by some hardwood ash. On the palate it's ripe, with bright berry fruit that has some sandal notes, and is supported by clean slightly bitter spice that flows into a clean berry fruit finish. Pleasant in a very direct way, and it will drink well with simple grilled meats or lighter stews.
1 star

Tramin Urban Südtirol Lagrein 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is smoky, with sea salt and warmth, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full, in a flabby sort of way -- the fruit spreads out in a lax way, leading quickly into a dry tannic finish that has a tired feel to it. It's too soon for this to happen.
1 star

Happacherhof - Istituto Tecnico Agrario
Via del Monte, 20 39040 Ora (Bolzano)
http://www.ofl-auer.it/

Happacherhof Lagrein 2004 Riserva
Lot 506
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is quite ripe, with powerful plum fruit laced with cedar and some sandal wood; it gives an impression of being a late harvested wine because of the ripeness of the fruit, but I am told it's not. On the palate it's full and soft, with fairly bright fruit supported by ample smooth sweet tannins that owe their foundation to oak, and flow into a clean smoky finish. It's quite well made in an international key, and if you like this smooth polished style -- the acidity has been knocked way down -- you will enjoy it. But you have to like the style.
2 stars

Zemmer Peter
Strada del Vino, 24 39040 Cortina S.S.d.V. (Bolzano)
http://www.zemmer.com/

Zemmer Lagrein 2005
Lot 939
Deep black cherry ruby with black brick rim. The bouquet is fresh, with moderate berry fruit supported by clean spice and some greenish notes. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright red berry fruit supported by sandalwood laced tannins and some mineral acidity that flows into a clean sandal finish. Pleasant, and will drink well with red meats off the grill, or light stews.
2 stars

Zemmer Lagrein Riserva 2003
Lot 804
This was in barrel for 18 months and it shows -- poured pyrope ink. The bouquet is powerful, and smoky, with hardwood ash and spice that almost completely mask the fruit. On the palate it's full, and quite soft, with ample red berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins, while there is some tart acidity that emerges in the finish and carries at length as the fruit fades to reveal peppery accents. It's buffed and polished to a high shine, and if you like this style you will enjoy it, though I found it a bit much, and felt that the wood masks the terroir -- It could be from elsewhere too.
1 star

Niklas - Weingut / Azienda Vitivinicola
Via Brunnen 39052 Caldaro (Bolzano)
http://www.niklaserhof.it/

Niklas Südtiroler Lagrein 2005
Lot 611
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is smoky, with spice and some animal tang -- a change of pace with respect to many other Lagreins -- and underlying acidity as well. On the palate it's deft, and medium bodied, with moderate berry fruit that gains direction from elegant, nicely balanced acidity, and is supported by clean sweet tannins that are quite smooth, and flow into a clean fruit laced finish. Pleasant and graceful, and will drink well with grilled meats. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Niklas Klaser Südtiroler Lagrein-Cabernet Riserva 2003
Lot 502
They added Cabernet to the wine in 1990 to increase color, which fades with time (this was before barriques) and they continue to put it in now because they like the result. The wine is deep black almandine ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit laced with warmth, spice, graphite shavings, wet leather and some hardwood ash. Nice balance and quite a bit going on; the On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful red berry fruit supported by tannins that have a leathery feel to them -- animal notes emerge, especially in the finish, with is long and warm, with acidity that's closely regulated and supports the wine without standing out. The overall impression is one of ethereal distance and maturity; if you like young fruit driven wines it won't work for you, but if you prefer elegant maturity it will. It's particular, and its rich, mature softness is probably also attributable to the heat of the 2003 vintage.
2 stars

Ritterhof Cantina
Strada del Vino, 1 39052 Caldaro (Bolzano)
http://www.ritterhof.it/

Ritterhof Lagrein 2005
Lot 06086
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is spicy with some mineral accents and hardwood ash mingled with moderate fruit and fair warmth. On the palate it's full, and soft, with ample red berry fruit supported by warm sour berry fruit acidity that flows into a clean warm tannic finish. Pleasant, an approachable food wine that will drink well with roasts or stews.
2 stars

Ritterhof Crescendo Lagrein Riserva 2003
Lot 05142
The bouquet is closed, though some spice emerges with considerable swishing. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and warm cedar-laced tannins that flow into a clean cedary finish. It's penalized by the vintage, which badly limits the expressiveness of the wine, though it will drink well with hearty roasts or stews.
1 star

Ritterhof Lagrein Gries Bolzano Manus Riserva 2003
Lot 06187
Poured in with violet rim; I was told it had spent 14 months in barriques, and it shows. The bouquet is powerful, with rich sour fruit laced with sandalwood and oak, with underlying pepper and spice and deft acidity. Much richer than the Crescendo. On the palate it's full, with powerful plum laced fruit supported by clean acidity that's held firmly in check, and by tannins that have clean cedary overtones. It's quite young, but promises well, and I'd be tempted to open a bottle with succulent red meats. Much less penalized by the vintage than the Crescendo, and if you like this rather rich, opulent style you'll enjoy it.
2 stars

Colterenzio Produttori - Schreckbichl
Strada del Vino, 8 39050 Cornaiano (Bolzano)
http://www.colterenzio.it/

Colterenzo
Colterenzo Cornell Alto Adige Lagrein 2002
Lot M0901A
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is wild, with balsamic notes and peppery spice mingled with sour, lively mineral-laced fruit. A fair amount going on. On the palate it's clean and bright, with deft heathery berry fruit supported by clean sweet tannins that flow into a fairly quick finish. Given 2002's general reputation it's impressive and has held well, displaying a supple willowy grace; it will be nice with roasts and stews.
2 stars

Colterenzo Mantsch Lagrein Riserva 2003
Lot 50713A
This is aged in a mix of large and small wood, and is lively ruby. The bouquet is fairly bright, with spice, acidity, and green leather mingled with underbrush and alcohol. On the palate it's full and soft, with ample leathery plum fruit backed by a fair amount of sweetness that flows into a clean warm finish with peppery tannins. It's fairly deft, and will drink well with red meats, though you do have to like mature accents in your wine.
2 stars

Colterenzo Lagrein 2006
Lot 70226A
Deep pigeon blood ruby with violet reflections. The bouquet is very fresh, with violets and some red berry fruit -- it's like sniffing a flower bed, and inviting. On the palate it's young, with vibrant cherry and black currant fruit supported by warm wild strawberry acidity and clean sweet tannins that have hints of sandalwood to them. Nice, and will drink well with quickly cooked grilled meats or vegetables. In short, simple, peasant, the sort of wine that will be perfect at a cookout or family meal, and a second bottle will come in handy.
1 star

Martini K. & Sohn Cantina Vini
Via Lamm, 28 39050 Cornaiano (Bolzano)
http://www.martini-sohn.it/

K Martini & Sohn Gurzan Südtirol Lagrein 2005
Lot 6100
Elegant ruby with ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, opening to reveal tart berry fruit laced with sandalwood, some hardwood ash, spice, and bitter notes. On the palate it's ample and full, with bright berry fruit supported by clean acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fruit laced finish. Elegant, displaying a pleasing brightness, and will drink well with foods.
2 stars

K Martini & Sohn Maturum Südtiroler Lagrein Riserva 2004
Lot 0604
Deep ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, with smoke and hardwood ash supporting nose tingling spice and warmth, while there's also moderate berry fruit. On the palate it's full and soft, with ample red berry fruit that gains direction from acidic warmth that gradually emerges, continuing at length, while volume comes from smooth polished tannins. It's buffed to a high shine, and if you like this polished style it is good, but you have to like the style. I found it a bit excessive.
1 star

St. Pauls Weinkelleri
Via Castel Guardia, 21 39050 San Paolo-Appiano (Bolzano)
http://www.kellereistpauls.com/

St. Pauls Lagrein 2005
Lot Lo397
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with ripe cherry fruit mingled with spice and some sandalwood, and warm smoky overtones from grapes. On the palate it's full, and quite smooth, with languid red berry fruit supported by clean acidity and brambly tannins that have spicy sandalwood overtones. Pleasant, in a direct way, and will drink well with simple red meats or light stews. Expect it to go quite quickly.
1 star

St. Pauls Exclusiv Lagrein Gries 2005
Lot 3486
Deep black almandine ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is smoky, with warm spice mingled with berry fruit jam, but it feels a bit shocked. On the palate it's full, with powerful jammy fruit supported by ample tannins that have warm cedary notes and flow into a clean sandalwood laced warm finish. It's bulked up with respect to the basic wine, and lacks its easy, unassuming grace.
1 star

St. Pauls Divinus Lagrein Riserva 2004
Lot 3046
Poured ink that stains the glass. The bouquet is fairly rich, with graceful berry fruit supported by sandalwood and slightly greenish spice, with underlying green leather and hints of jam. Pleasant. On the palate it's full, and smooth, with powerful ripe plumy fruit supported by warmth and smooth sweet tannins that do have a youthful oaky burr and flow into a clean tannic finish. It's pleasant, displaying considerably greater finesse than the Gries, and though the wood is quite evident, the wine is also obviously young, and needs another year to get its bearings. It will be elegant when it does, in a middle-of-the-road key.
2 stars

Kössler Cantina Vini E Spumanti
Via Castel Guardia, 21 39050 San Paolo (Bolzano)
http://www.koessler.it/

Kössler Larcherhof Südtirol Alto Adige Lagrein 2004
Lot not apparent.
Deep black almandine ruby with almandine reflections and rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with spice and sandalwood mingling with leather and some balsamic warmth, with underlying nose tingling acidity. Not much fruit, but the overall impression is airy. On the palate it's full, with powerful tart berry fruit that has some leathery overtones supported by clean sweet tannins that flow into a warm, fairly mineral sandalwood finish. Pleasant in a traditional key -- the grapes come out nicely. It will drink well with stews or roasts, especially game.
2 stars

Muri-Gries Tenuta E Cantina Convento
Piazza Gries, 21 39100 Bolzano
http://www.muri-gries.com/

Muri-Gries Südtiroler Lagrein 2005
Lot 070608
Lively cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, and fresh, with lively cherry fruit that has some sea salt overtones and hints of India ink mingled with spice. The palate reflects the nose, with bright fresh cherry and forest berry fruit supported by deft acidity and clean spice that flow into a clean fairly tart tannic finish. Disarming simplicity and quite pleasant to drink, though it does require foods; it will work well with light roasts or stews, and will also be nice at a cookout or picnic. Worth seeking out, and expect the bottle to go quickly.
2 stars

Abtei Muri sudtiroler Lagrein Riserva 2004
Lot not visible
Deep cherry ruby with ruby reflections. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up some cedar and slight berry fruit. On the palate it's full, with ample red berry fruit supported by tannins that have a distinctly oaky feel to them and flow into a warm, decidedly bitter oaky finish. It has been fed a barrel and hasn't digested it yet; I wonder if it ever will.
1 star

Abtei Muri Südtirol Rosenmuskateller 2005
Barrel sample
Delicate Rose. The bouquet is rich, especially considering that it's from a barrel, with roses supported by graceful lemony acidity and warmth, with sugars and sweetness to round it out. Very nice. On the palate it's rich, full, and sweet, with elegant strawberry-raspberry fruit supported by delightful acidity and sweetness that flow into a clean berry fruit finish. Very nice, a graceful sip of ambrosia that invites another, and then another. In short, dangerous.
2 stars

Cortaccia Cantina Produttori
Strada del Vino, 23 39040 Cortaccia (Bolzano)
http://www.kellerei-kurtatsch.it/

Kurtatsch Lagrein 2006
Lot 01607
Lively cherry ruby with cherry rim. Very fresh bouquet with bright red berry fruit supported by some sandalwood sice and clean acidity, with underbrush as well. Deft in youth, with more fruit than floral notes, and the impression is quite nice. On the palate it's full, with clean moderately intense fruit -- less than I expected from the nose -- supported by clean tannins that have sandalwood overtones from the grapes, and are supported by some fairly mineral acidity as well that carries at length. It's still a little up in the air, but has plenty of direction to it, and will drink well with simple meats or light stews, while the acidity makes it a good bet with fried foods as well.
1 star.

Kurtatsch Lagrein Freinfeld Lagrein 2003
Lot 12906
Deep pigeon blood ruby. The bouquet is very young, with considerable cedar and sandalwood, with moderate mineral acidity and some sour berry fruit, but not much. On the palate it's full, with bright red berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins; it's further along than on the nose and displays a certain appealing grace the nose has yet to acquire. In short, a babe, and it needs another year to come together and go in one direction. It's too young to score, but could become quite handsome.

Obermoser Weingut Vigneto Vineyard - Heinrich & Thomas Rottensteiner
S. Maddalena, 35 39100 Bolzano
http://www.obermoser.it/

Obermoser Südtiroler Lagrein Riserva Grafenleiten 2004
Lot 08
Deep almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is young and smoky with quite a bit of oak and warm acidity that blend with minerality and warm barnyard tang. Not much fruit. On the palate it's full and smooth with ample sweet tannins that owe their structure in part to wood, supporting fruit that has warm bitter notes and flows into a warm tannic finish. Overcharged for me.
1 star

Ramoser Georg "Untermoserhof"
Santa Maddalena, 36 39100 Bolzano
Tel. 0471 975481

Georg Ramoser Südtiroler Lagrein 2006
Deep ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is very young and a bit out of sorts, with berry fruit and sandalwood-laced spice mingling with floral notes and minerality. The palate is equally fresh and young, with cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and clean sweet tannins that flow into a clean finish. Quite simple, pleasant, and will be nice with simply prepared meats. Expect the bottle to go quickly.
1 star

Georg Ramoser Südtiroler Lagrein Riserva 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is rich and wild, with balsamic notes and animal tang supported by spice and a fair amount of smoky acidity; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with slightly leathery berry fruit supported by tannins that have a warm cedary burr and flow into a clean bitter finish. It's a bit rustic, but will work well with succulent red meats if you like the style.
1 star

Malojer "Gummerhof" - Cantina Vini
Via Weggenstein, 36 39100 Bolzano - Italia
http://www.malojer.it/

Malojer Gummerhof Südtiroler Lagrein Gries 2005
Lot 565
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, with lively berry fruit supported by strawberry acidity and some sandalwood, with underlying warm spice, minerality, and underbrush. Fresh. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright red berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and moderate acidity that flow into a clean spicy finish. Direct, and will drink very well with foods; expect the bottle to go quickly.
2 stars

Malojer Lagrein Riserva 2003
Lot 511
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is powerful and dusky, with a great deal of cedar -- it gives and impression of being pumped up -- and spice that overwhelm the fruit. On the palate it's full, and quite smooth, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by tannins that gain sweet accents from wood, and lfow into a clean oak-laced finish. I found the oak excessive; the wine isn't as interesting as it might have been with less of it.
1 star

San Michele-Appiano Cantina Produttori
Via Circonvallazione, 17/19 39057 Appiano (Bolzano)
http://www.stmichael.it/

Saint Michael Eppan Sanct Valentin Südtirol - Alto Adige Lagrein 2003
Lot 5259
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is animal, with smoky notes and mentholated overtones, some mineral acidity, and little fruit. On the palate it's full, with warm animal accents and tart berry fruit that gains direction from acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly sour acidic finish. It's a bit rustic, but if you like the style will drink well with succulent roasts or stews. It's a demanding wine, and you have to like the style; if you do you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Girlan/Cornaiano Cantina Produttori
Via San Martino, 24 39057 Cornaiano (Bolzano)
http://www.girlan.it/

Girlan Südtirol - Alto Adige Lagrein 2005
Lot 02116
Deep pigeon blood ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with warm berry fruit supported by tart peppery spice and sandalwood. Inviting. On the palate it's full, and quite smooth, with fairly rich berry fruit that gains depth from bitter accents and flows into a clean slightly sour finish. Pleasant in a direct sort of way, and will drink well with light stews or roasts.
1 star

Girlan Lagrein Laurin 2004
Lot 22026
Deep black almandine ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit supported by greenish accents and cedar that mingle with some sandalwood. Nice balance, though the wood is still evident, and this is a factor of youth. On t it's full and soft, with ample red berry fruit supported by clean sour red berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins. It's graceful, but needs more time to come together, another year at least. When it's ready, it will drink well with hearty roasts or stews.

Select Art Flora Lagrein Riserva 2003
Lot 414085
Inky poured black almandine with dark rim. The bouquet is powerful, with some sweetness and a great rush of oak that covers most everything except mineral wood smoke. It's like sniffing the inside of a barrel. On the palate it's full, with moderate red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that are well polished and flow into a soft smooth finish with bitter cedar accents from wood. The fruit must have been impressive to stand up as well as it has, but it's faced with an irresistible force. If you like heavily oaked wines you will like it, but you have to like them.
1 star

Egger - Ramer A.
Via Guncina, 5 39100 Bolzano
http://www.egger-ramer.com/

Egger Ramer Alto Adige Südtirol Lagrein Gries 2006
Lot 70210
Deep cherry ruby. The bouquet is quite fresh, with violets and sweetish berry fruit -- plums, with smoky sandalwood accents (they use large wood, chestnut instead of oak, saying it is better for long term use if you want the wood to be merely a container); the effect is promising. On the palate it's fresh, and young, with lively berry fruit supported by clean acidity and smooth sweet tannins. Very pleasant, and will drink well with simple foods, ranging from light stews through grilled meats, and will also be a nice bet for cookouts of picnics. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Tenuta Kristan Lagrein Gries 2005
Lot 60116 (prerelease, but already bottled)
This is a vineyard selection from a vineyard where they replant continuously, grafting from their own vines, as needed, meaning that the age of the vines ranges from 5-70 years (the French do this too). The wood is a mix of small and large oa, and the wine is deep cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is intriguing, with notes of clover honey mingled with red berry fruit and spice, and sea salt too. Up in the air, but promising. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite smooth, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by clean spice and deft acidity, and it all flows into a clean berry fruit finish. Deft and quite promising, it will be an elegant expression of Lagrein when it comes together; I'd give it until the fall of 2008 before opening it. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Tenuta Kristan Lagrein Gries Riserva 2004
Lot 70210
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit laced with sandalwood and spice; there's more finesse to it than power, and I found it delicate. On the palate it's full, and quite smooth, with pleasant slightly smoky berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly bitter finish. Graceful, and strikes a nice balance between wood and grape; it is ready though it will benefit from another year at least; drink it with stews or red meats. By comparison with some of the other Lagrein Riserve, I found it a bit less polished, but with more character.
90