This year Nebbiolo Prima began with the 2008 Roero, followed by the 2008 Barbaresco and the 2007 Barolo; there were also a few Barbaresco Riservas, and on the last day a number of 2005 Barolo Riserva wines.
The afternoons were structured somewhat differently, with Monday afternoon dedicated to the 2001 vintage, a retrospective if you will, Tuesday and Thursday dedicated to winery visits and tastings. Wednesday free (and I did take advantage of that), and Friday there was an optional visit to Diano and Dogliani to taste Dolcetto di Diano and Dolcetto di Dogliani/Dogliani.
A full week, but both pleasant and instructive and I learned quite a bit during the afternoon sessions, while the mornings were profitable as always.
To begin, a couple of words on the vintages.
2008 : We tasted 2008 wines from Roero and the three Communes of Barbaresco, which, as the crow flies are quite close to each other. Very different wines, however. Roero continues to be the most uneven, in part because of the characteristics of the terroir, which is sandy and well drained, and yields -- if left to itself -- wines that are powerful, because Nebbiolo is, but revolve more around finesse and elegance within the Nebbiolo spectrum. And if the winemaker lets them be they can be quite nice.
If, because some winemakers want something more substantial, and try to bulk them up either by going for concentration and complete polyphenolic ripeness, or through the use of new wood that Nebbiolo is really not that good at balancing. And when this happens, the wines feel bulky and forced.
Barbaresco extends over a larger area on the opposite bank of the Tanaro river, and the 2008 vintage is not of as uniform quality as some other recent vintages have been. Though there were some exceptions, I found that in general the wines from the Communes of Barbaresco and Treiso showed significantly better than those from Neive, with nice fruit and bracing acidity in a variety of styles; as always, you'll have to match the wines to your tastes but there are many fine bottles to be had. Neive is instead more uneven.
With Barolo we had the 2007 vintage, which is more approachable than the 2006 we tasted last year, with many of the wines richer, more opulent, and readier to drink. This said, as vintages go it's not as good as the 2006, and though the bottles will work better in the short term (3-5 years and perhaps a little longer) the 2006 has, I think, much better potential for long-term againg. This is not a bad thing; I ofund many wines that will be quite pleasant with foods (not as much in the way of meditation wines), and vintages that mature sooner are necessary, because they give us something to enjoy while we await the vintages that need time.
A final practical point: I took a terrific volume of notes in the course of the five days of Nebbiolo Prima. To put everything up at once would be unthinkable, and putting up all of the Barolo notes together would be awkward. So I will be posting Roero and Barbaresco, and then Barolo by Comune, in the space of several posts. The wines are listed in the order they were poured, which within the Communes is by vineyard.
Let's get started with the 2008 Roero!Cantina del Nebbiolo Roero DOCGPale brick almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is vinous, with cherry fruit supported by mentholated accents and some jammy notes, also slight gum Arabic. And spice. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright mineral acidity and dusky graphite shaving bitterness, but not much fruit, and it flows into a fairly long bitter finish with sour mineral underpinning. It's rather austere, and though it will drink well with succulent meats that will benefit from its briskness. If you like the style you will enjoy it, but if you prefer more fruit driven wines it won't work as well for you.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Careglio Roero DOCG 2008Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with dusky bitterness and moderate fruit supported by some sour berry fruit acidity, while there is also some gunpowder to it. On the palate it's medium bodied, with lively sour berry fruit supported by brambly acidity and tannins that are rather splintery, and flow into a greenish splintery finish. It's quite young in a scrappy tannic key, and will drink well with fattier meats. Aggressive, and you have to like the style; if you prefer smoother softer wines it won't work as well for you.
1 star
Cascina Chicco Montespinato Roero DOCG 2008
Dusky brick almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with brambly accents and some underbrush, and also moderate alcohol. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense sour berry fruit, cherries with some currants, supported by dry brambly tannins that have a scrappy burr to them, and flow into a clean slightly greenish brambly finish with a bitter underpinning. Pleasant in a brambly scrappy key, and will work well with fattier roasts or stews; roast fresh (as opposed to cured) ham comes to mind. With the proper dish it will be perfect, but you have to like fairly aggressive wines with tongue-drying tannins.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Cascina Val del Prete Roero DOCG 2008Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit mingled with quite a bit of cedar and some spice. Lots of oak. On the palate it's an oak concentrate, with moderate fruit that gives way to cedar that wells up and flows over the tongue; and flows into a long oak laced finish. It's like licking a barrel slat, and though the oak will fold in some with time, I doubt it will ever fold in completely. Something to consider only if you like heavily oaked wines.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Porchione Maurizio Monfrini Roero DOCG 2008 Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is brambly with quite a bit of oak as well, and some savory notes; not much fruit emerges. On the palate it's more nicely balanced than the nose suggests, though still revolving more around minerality and cedar than fruit; it's medium bodied with bitter minerality and some spice, and flows into a clean rather mineral finish. It's pleasant in an austere key, and will become rather ethereal with time, I think. With respect to some of the others it doesn't try as hard, and this is a good thing.
2 stars
Marco Porello Torretta Roero DOCG 2008Deep black almandine with black reflections and some orange in the rim. The bouquet is moderately intense with quite a bit of cedary oak and some savory notes, but not much fruit. On the palate it's further along, with savory minerality and some berry fruit supported by tannins that are quite dry and rather splintery, and flow into a clean savory finish. It's quite young, and needs another year to come together, but will be pleasant in a rather ethereal key with time, I think. Not a wine to drink tomorrow.
2 stars
Rabino F.lli Roero DOCG 2008Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit rustic, with balsamic accents and some wet stable straw mingled with slight gum Arabic and mineral acidity; as it opens sour berry fruit also emerges. On the palate it's fairly bright, with sour decidedly mineral berry fruit supported by tannins that have a distinct dusky bitter cedar and graphite shaving burr that's almost peppery, and flows into a fairly long rather bitter savory finish. It's bitter, and fairly aggressive, with tannins that are quite dry, but if you like the style displays pleasing grace, and will drink well with grilled or roasted red meats. But you have to like the style; if you prefer smoother softer more fruit forward wines it won't work as well for you. It will I think be fairly long-lived.
2 stars
Negro Angelo e Figli Prachiosso Roero DOCG 2008Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with cold coffee and coffee grounds, supported by bitterness and slight shellac, but not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense sour berry fruit supported by cedar laced tannins and some brambly acidity that flow into a fairly long rather dry finis with a bitter cedary underpinning. It's pleasant but needs a couple of years to get its bearings, at which point it will drink well with grilled meats or roasts, and it will become more ethereal with time.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Giovanni Almondo Bric Valdiana Roero DOCG 2008Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is younger than many, with some violets at first swish mingled with berry fruit, sea salt and some spice. On the palate it's medium bodied and rater bitter, with minerality and some sour berry fruit supported by tannins that are quite bitter and rather dry, with a cedary overlay to them that flows into a very savory dry cedary finish. The nose is more interesting than the palate in this phase, because the palate reveals a surfeit of oak; it may fold in with time, but time will tell.
1 star
Fabrizio Battaglino Sergentin Roero DOCG 2008Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The nose isn't as clean as I might have liked; there's wet cloth and some bitterness and some spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's bitter, and cedar laced, with again very little fruit, and it flows into a quite dry mentholated finish with considerable cedar. That continues at length, gradually revealing bitter spice.
No Star
Cascina Cà Rossa Audinaggio Roero DOCG 2008Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is one track, with a great deal of shellac and some underlying cedar. It's like sniffing a freshly soaked new barrel, after the water has been drained. The palate reflects the nose, with a great deal of cedar and some warmth, and peppery spice from the tannins, which flow into a warm peppery finish. The grapes are completely covered by the oak they went into.
Renato Buganza Gerbole Roero DOCG 2008Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of cedar that throws a blanket over most everything else; there is some spice too but the fruit is hidden. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderate fruit supported by considerable tart warmth and cedary tannins that flow into a warm tannic finish. Very heavily oaked, and you have to like oak to like the wine.
1 star
Renato Buganza Bric Paradis Roero DOCG 2008Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is savory with warmth and some cedar mingled with some shellac; a lot of wood that overshadows the fruit almost completely. On the palate it's savory, with fairly bright sour minerality and tannins that have a peppery burr and flow into a fairly bitter finish; the oak is present and does condition the wine, though not as completely as in some of the others in the flight; it will drink well with fattier meats and such, and will age well for a number of years, becoming more ethereal with time. But it is particular, and you have to like the style.
2 stars
Pelassa Daniele Antoniolo Roero Riserva DOCG 2007Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is dusky, and rather rustic, with some stable straw mingled with spice; not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with rather bitter berry fruit supported by dry spicy tannins that lay a peppery burr over the tongue and flow into a fairly long peppery finish. I'd have liked more fruit; the tannins end up stepping in to do duty, and aren't as interesting as fruit would have been.
1 star
Taliano Michele Ròche dra Bossora Roero Riserva DOCG 2007Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is surprisingly fresh for a Riserva, with floral notes, violets in particular, supported by spice and some jammy berry fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied with fairly bright savory berry fruit supported by slight brambly berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are fairly bright, with a cedary burr that flows into a fairly long tannic finish. Pleasant, though it needs another year to come together, and will drink well with succulent grilled meats or hearty stews.
2 stars
Deltetto Braja Roero Riserva DOCG 2007Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with sour berry fruit and some spicy bitterness, but not much in the way of fruit; there is however a fair amount of cedar to it. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggests, with moderately intense very sour berry fruit supported by cedar laced tannins and minerality that flow into a clean rather bitter mineral finish. Pleasant, though it's not a wine to drink by the glass; it will instead work nicely with grilled or roasted red meats, especially more succulent cuts that will benefit from the tannins.
2 stars
Cascina Chicco Valmaggiore Roero Riserva DOCG 2007Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with moderate sour berry fruit supported by considerable cedar, and some wet coffee grounds, that are another manifestation of cedar, with some savory accents as well. On the palate it's medium bodied with fairly bright sour cherry fruit supported by savory mineral aciodity and by tannins that have a slight cedary burr, and flow into a clean sour cherry finish a dry tannic underpinning that has hints of cold coffee to it. Pleasant, in a young key, and will drink quite well now with grilled or roasted meats, and will also age nicely becoming ethereal and lacy with time. It grew upon me.
2 stars
Cascina Cà Rossa Moripissano Roero Riserva DOCG 2007Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with candied berry fruit supported by quite a bit of cedar, and some bitter cold coffee, with some spice too. On the palate it's moderately intense, with sour berry fruit supported by tannins that are rather splintery, and flow into a savory splintery tannic finish. It's fairly aggressive, and isn't a wine to drink by the glass, at least not now, though it will work well with succulent meats, and will age nicely too.
2 stars
Casetta F.lli Roero Riserva DOCG 2007Pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. It looks older than it is. The bouquet is moderately intense, with considerable brambles supported by some greenish accents and underlying savory berry fruit. On the palate it's graceful, with sour cherry fruit supported by brambly sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are savory and rather splintery, flowing into a savory berry fruit finish. Graceful in a traditional key, and though it is beginning to show a degree of steeliness it's still quite young. I would give it time, because though it's pleasant now it will likely do interesting things.
2 stars
Matteo Correggia Rocche d'Ampsej Roero Riserva DOCG 2007Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with quite a bit of cedar mingled in with shellac and hints, frankly, oak -- there's not much fruit, and it's like sniffing a wood shop. The palate reflects the nose; there's a lot of cedar, and considerable oaky bitterness, but not much fruit, and it flows into a bitter oaky finish. Too much oak, for me.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Pace Roero Riserva DOCG 2007
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is intense with an oddly eye-opening savory stable straw mix that a fellow taster describes as wet paint, with some savory notes as well. On the palate it's a bit brighter than the nose suggests, with savory berry fruit supported by tannins that have a cedary underpinning and flow int0 a dry tannic finish with underlying bitterness. It's not as clean as it might be on the nose, and this penalizes the palate, which I found more interesting.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Malvirà Mombeltramo Roero Riserva DOCG 2007Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is moderately intense, with jammy berry fruit supported by greenish brambly accents and spice with a fair amount of alcohol as well. On the palate it's medium bodied, and decidedly mineral more than fruit driven, with minerality and graphite shaving bitterness supported by warm peppery tannins that flow into a clean rather bitter finish. If you like the style, which revolves more around minerality than fruit you will enjoy it, and it will drink well with succulent red meats. But you have to like the style, which isn't for everyone.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Malvirà Renesio Roero Riserva DOCG 2007Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, and greenish, with quite a bit of cedar but not much fruit. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggests, and quite mineral, with moderate berry fruit, though what really emerges in addition to minerality is graphite shaving bitterness, while the tannins have a warm cedary burr and flow into a rather bitter cedar laced finish. I'd have liked more and richer fruit.
1 star
Monchiero Carbone Printi Roero Riserva DOCG 2007Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and almandine rim; it's considerably darker than most. The bouquet is different too, with jammy plum prune fruit supported by warmth and some balsamic notes, with hints of leather and horse (not lathered) too. On the palate it's ample and fairly smooth, with sour berry fruit that again has warm balsamic accents, and is supported by warmth and by splintery tannins that flow into a warm rather tannic finish. It's a bit more rustic than some, but not animal, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. But you have to like the style, and it does have the tannic tongue drying qualities many of the Roeri presented this year have displayed.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Cascina del Pozzo Roero Montegalletto Roero Riserva DOCG 2007Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with a degree of savory mustiness to it. On the palate it's savory, with considerable sour bitterness and tannins that are quite splintery, and flow into a bitter savory tannic finish. It's quite brash, and isn't a wine to drink by the glass in the near future, though its brashness will make it a good bet with fattier red meats, while its acidity and tannin will make it ageworthy, though I'm not sure how well it will do in the long run because there isn't as much richness of fruit as I might have liked.
1 star
Negro Angelo e Figli Sudisfà Roero Riserva DOCG 2007Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim; it looks older than it is. The bouquet is savory, with some sour berry fruit and slight mentholated accents with some bramble too. Pleasant in a rather restrained key. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by savory minerality and some acidity, and by tannins that have a brambly underlie to them, and flow into a savory brambly finish. I'd have liked more richness to the fruit, which is not quite evanescent, but could have been brighter and fuller.
1 star
Negro Lorenzo San Francesco Roero Riserva DOCG 2007Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with dusky bitter minerality and some savory notes, but not much fruit. On the palate it's savory, with savory minerality more than fruit supported by dry brambly tannins that flow into a rather savory finish with a marked tannic burr that carries at length. It's quite young, and displays some depth, but I would have liked more fruit and less savory minerality.
1 star
BarbarescoAs I noted in the introduction, the 2008 Barbaresco was more variable from Comune to Comune than tome previous vintages have been. We start with wines from the Comune of Barbaresco, in the order poured, which is by vineyard:
Massimo Penna Sorì Sartù Barbaresco DOCG 2008 Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish minerality and spice supporting savory notes and some saddle leather. On the palate it's graceful, in a delicate key, with moderately rich berry fruit supported by deft acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly mentholated finish. Pleasant, and will drink nicely with grilled meats or light roasts, and will also age nicely for many years.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Molino Teorema Barbaresco DOCG 2008 Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with berry fruit supported by some bramble and delicate spice that has slight hints of menthol. On the palate it's rich, with elegant berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that re rather splintery, and flow into a warm savory finish with slightly splintery tannic underpinning. It's quite young and needs another couple of years to come together, but should do so rather gracefully, and age nicely for many years.
2 stars
Piazzo Armando Fratiri Barbaresco DOCG 2008Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and greenish, with savory vegetal accents mingled with slight barnyard tang and balsamic acidity. On the palate it's fairly bright, with sour berry fruit supported by balsam-laced acidity and by tannins that have a rather coarse splintery burr, and flow into a fairly long savory decidedly tannic finish. It's a babe, and needs time to come together; the fruit has a fairly traditional feel to it, and it will I think be in that direction, though at present it is simply too young.
Adriano Marco e Vittorio Sanadaive Barbaresco DOCG 2008Cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit supported by slight greenish accents and hints of cedar; it's still coming together. On the palate it's pleasant, with elegant sour berry fruit supported by sour greenish berry fruit acidity and tannins that have a greenish overlay and flow into a long rather vegetal tannic finish. It's very young, but displays nice promise, and will drink well now with succulent grilled meats or roasts, while it also has the capacity to age nicely for many years, becoming lacy with time.
2 stars
Albino Rocca Barbaresco DOCG 2008Deep black almandine with black reflections and some almandine in the rim, paling to orange. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some savory notes, and spice. It's really not ready. On the palate it's moderately intense, with sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are rather brambly, and flow into a clean brambly finish with mentholated accents. It's promising, but rather like a toddler who finds herself on the runway of a fashion show for adults -- it needs another couple of years to begin to show what it has the capacity to be. I would give it time, because I think it could go places.
2 stars
Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco DOCG 2008Pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense,with ith rosa canina and berry fruit supported by some cedar and pleasant floral accents; there's nice grace and dpeth in a young key. On the palate it's graceful, with delicate cherry and forest berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have a brambly burr and flow into a clean rather brambly finish. It's quite young, but shows well, and will become quite interesting in a fairly traditional key with time. It grew upon me.
2 stars
Cantina Del Nebbiolo Barbaresco DOCG 2008Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is decidedly brambly with greenish accents and is supported by some red berry fruit, though what really emerges now is the bramble. On the palate it's bright, with brambly berry fruit supported by savory minerality and tannins that have a steely youthful splintery burr, and flow into a warm savory finish; it's quick to write but pleasant and graceful in a fairly traditional key, and will drink well with grilled meats or stews now, if you must, and will also age well for many years. If you prefer the more traditional style you will enjoy it, and even if you are a modernist at heart you will find things to think about.
2 stars
Taliano Michele Ad Altiora Barbaresco DOCG 2008 Fairly deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some animal tang and some savory notes mingled with plum prune fruit and slight balsam, and also hints of sandalwood and menthol. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's deft, with bright sour berry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are still quite young, and a little more blocky than they will be, but are beginning to display steel as well, and flow into a clean tannic berry fruit finish. It needs time, a couple of years at least, and will age well for a decade or more thereafter. Pleasant in a fairly traditional style.
2 stars
Prunotto Barbaresco DOCG 2008Pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up sour brambly berry fruit with slight greenish accents and hints of rosa canina. Quite nice, and it's one of those bouquets that invites repeated sniffs. On the palate it's graceful, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a peppery burr and flow into a fairly long savory sour cherry finish with tannic underpinning. It's not a wine to be drunk by the glass now, but will work well with succulent red meats, and also has considerable aging potential; I would if I had a case age most of it because I think it will do interesting things with time.
2 stars
Cà du Rabajà Barbaresco DOCG 2008Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. Darker than some. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit that has some plum accents supported by spice and minerality that add nice depth, in a very young context. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense sour berry fruit supported more by tannins that have a blocky feel than by acidity, which I found somewhat lacking; the wine's not really settled, but doesn't have all of the verve I might have hoped for from the nose, and flows into a fairly bitter tannic finish. I'd have liked more acidity to keep it up.
1 star
Cantina del Pino Barbaresco DOCG 2008Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with ripe fruit wrapped around cedar and some spice; the two are nicely balanced and the combination is harmonious. On the palate it's quite smooth, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported more by minerality than acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a rather bitter mineral tannic finish that continues at length. I'd have liked a little more acidity, which has been smoothed out by the wood, whose tannins overshadow some on the palate. It needs time for the wood to fold in, and I would give it, though I did find the relative lack of acidity problematic.
1 star
Cascina Morassino Morassino Barbaresco DOCG 2008 Deep black almandine with almandine reflections and white rim. The bouquet is powerful, with quite a bit of petroleum mingled with some barnyard tang and some airy spice; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied to full, with moderate fruit supported by savory notes and acidity, and by tannins that are warm and splintery. It's quite young and still coming together, but I found myself wishing for more pronounced fruit and greater depth.
1 star
Moccagatta Bric Balin Barbaresco DOCG 2008 Deep almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with floral accents supported by berry fruit and a fair amount of cedar; it's nicely balanced and harmonious. On the palate it's a bit more aggressive than I expected, with moderate fruit supported by mineral acidity and tannins that are decidedly peppery and flow into a cedar laced peppery burr. I'd have liked greater richness of fruit, and somewhat less tannic angriness.
1 star
Olek Bondonio Barbaresco DOCG 2008 Pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with deft rosa canina mingled with bramble and some mentholated accents too, and also some sandalwood. Nice depth, and quite young too. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry fruit supported by bright sour cherry acidity and by tannins that have clean brambly accents and some greenish overtones, and flow into a fairly bright brambly tannic finish. It's quite young, but has nice potential, and will age well for a decade at least; if you prefer round smooth fruit driven wines it won't work as wlel for you, but if you like a more traditional style you will enjoy it.
2 stars
Rattalino Quarantadue42 Barbaresco DOCG 2008Deep almandine with black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and rather vegetal, with greenish accents mingled with some spice; the fruit doesn't emerge much, surrendering to oak. On the palate it's dusky, with greenish accents and minerality supported by bitter notes, while there isn't much fruit, and it flows into a fairly long bitter finish. There's a lot of oak, and at present it overshadows the other components, especially the fruit, and though oak will fold in with time, it will always play a very significant role in the wine.
1 star
Cascina Morassino Ovello Barbaresco DOCG 2008 Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to white. The bouquet is fairly intense, and rather greenish, with vegetal accents mingled with spice and sour berry fruit acidity with fairly intense cedar as well. On the palate it's fairly bright, with sour berry fruit supported by some greenish berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a fairly pronounced peppery cedar-laced burr, and flow into a long decidedly bitter peppery finish. It's fairly aggressive in its youth, and though I wouldn't drink it by the glass it will work well with fattier red meats off the grill or from the oven, and will age well for a number of years. To be frank the tannins need a couple of years to work into the wine; it's simply not ready yet.
Azienda Agricola la Cà Nova Montestefano Barbaresco DOCG 2008 Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim with orange paling to white. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and fairly intense alcohol, and by cedar and slight balsamic notes too. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright bitter berry fruit supported by graphite shaving bitterness and tannins that have a peppery underlay and flow into a clean peppery finish that's fairly aggressive. It's very young, and needs time, at least a year, to get its bearings and come together; it is heavily oaked and if you like the style you will enjoy it, though if you prefer large wood, which has less of an impact, you may like it less.
1 star
Azienda Agricola La Spinona Bricco Faset Barbaresco DOCG 2008 Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with elegant rosa canina mingled with some berry fruit and spice; it's fresh and graceful in a very young key, and invites a second sniff. On the palate it's fairly rich, with dusky berry fruit supported by savory minerality and dusky graphite bitterness that flows into a fairly long savory finish. It needs a couple of years, and is a wine that will work much better with rich succulent meats than by the glass; if you prefer smoother softe3r wines it won't work for you, but it will do a good job with the proper foods, and also has nice aging potential.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Montaribaldi Sorì Montaribaldi Barbaresco DOCG 2008 Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit rustic, with wet horse supported by balsamic accents and some stable straw, and savory notes too. On the palate it's bright, with greenish berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and considerable graphite shaving bitterness that flows into a spicy tannic finish. It's young, and needs a couple of years to come together, and will also age well for a decade or more.
2 stars
Cascina delle Rose Tre Stelle Barbaresco DOCG 2008 Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish berry fruit supported by some cedar and slight brambly notes; it's very young and still coming together. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by deft sour berry fruit acidity that has pleasing savory accent, and by tannins that have a warm savory burr and flow into a clean sour cherry finish with lasting warmth. Pleasant though woefully young, and will drink well with grilled meats or roasts in the short term, though it is quite age worthy.
2 stars
Poderi Colla Roncaglie Barbaresco DOCG 2008Black almandine with black reflections and orange in the rim. The bouquet is deft, with bright slightly greenish berry fruit supported by spice and brambly greenish acidity, and by a fair amount of alcohol too. On the palate it's bright, with sour cherry fruit supported by greenish berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a warm slightly greenish burr, and flow into a clean spicy tannic finish. It's bracing, and will drink well with succulent red meats in the short term, while it also has the capacity to age nicely for many years.
2 stars
Albino Rocca Ronchi Barbaresco DOCG 2008 Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish vegetal accents supported by shellac and spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's bright, though with more acidity and greenish spice than fruit, while the tannins are quite peppery and fairly aggressive and flow into a warm peppery finish. It's heavily oaked and the oak overshadows to a degree the fruit.
1 star
Cà Del Baio Asili Barbaresco DOCG 2008 Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with rosa canina and deft floral accents mingled with some berry fruit and slight greenish accents that almost bring bell peppers to mind. Nice depth in a young key. On the palate it's pleasant, with considerable depth, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, displaying steel though a youthful burr, and flow into a clean rather bitter -- graphite shaving -- sour cherry finish. Graceful, in a fairly traditional key, and will drink very well in the short tem with succulent meats, but also age well for a decade at least.
2 stars
Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Gresy Martinenga Barbaresco DOCG 2008 Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is pleasant, with brambly accents and rosa canina mingled with some berry fruit and spice; it's slightly greener than some but displays considerable depth and elegance, and there are hints of leaf tobacco to it too. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit and acidity supported by smooth sweet tannins that are beginning to reveal steel -- no velvet yet -- and flow into a clean bright sour cherry finish. Quite pleasant in a traditional key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it very much.
2 stars
Castello di Verduno Rabajà Barbaresco DOCG 2008Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish vegetal accents supported by spice and alcohol, while there isn't much fruit. Spice and cedar, but not fruit. On the palate it's brighter than I expected, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by mineral acidity and by tannins that have a fairly pronounced peppery burr and flow into a clean sour rather bitter peppery berry fruit finish. Its' a big, powerful wine, a well muscled athlete in a middle of the road key, and will drink well with roasts or stews in the near term, and also age well for at least a decade. It's not about subtlety, but not all wines are, and it has considerable pleasing power to it.
2 stars
Cortese Giuseppe Rabajà Barbaresco DOCG 2008Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to white. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish bitterness mingled with spice and a fair amount of cedar too. On the palate it's full, and peppery, with fairly intense red berry fruit supported by bright sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a lively peppery burr and flow into a clean peppery finish that continues at length. Quite vigorous, and will drink well with succulent roasts or stews. It will also age nicely.
2 stars
Cascina Luisin Rabajà Barbaresco DOCG 2008Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit supported by rosa canina and spice with some underlying cedar and a fair amount of alcohol as well; it's quite powerful and still quite young. On the palate it's powerful, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by mineral laced berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have some steel to them, and also considerable angry peppery graphite bitterness and flow into a bitter sour berry fruit finish with a fair amount of alcohol and tannic underpinning. It's well muscled, but lither, like a decathlete, and will drink very well with roasts or stews, though I would give it a few years because it will be more interesting then than it is now.
2 stars
Cà du Rabajà Rabajà Barbaresco DOCG 2008Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to white. The bouquet is intense,with ith quite a bit of alcohol and fairly intense greenish accents supported by spice and some menthol. On the palate it's bright, with powerful sour cherry fruit supported by fairly brisk acidity and by tannins that are fairly rich, with slight hints of steel and a touch of peppery spice to them. Big, in a middle of the road key, and will work very well with grilled or roasted meats, though I would give it 3-5 years, and if I had more than one bottle age the second for longer.
2 stars
Wines from TreisoAzienda Agricola Pelissero Nubiola Barbaresco DOCG 2008
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with sour cherry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and some berry fruit jam, also slight sweetness and a fair amount of cedar. Nicely balanced in a fairly bright key, and also a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's fairly rich, and direct, with bright berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and dusky tannins that have a peppery burr and pronounced graphite shaving bitterness that flows into a long bitter finish. It's up front and direct, and this is youth; with time it will gain in complexity and should be fairly long lived.
2 stars
La Ganghija di Rapalino Enzo Barbaresco DOCG 2008Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with moderate berry fruit and quite a bit of oak that presents as cedar, with peppery spice, and as the wine opens the cedar increases. On the palate it's a bit brighter than I expected, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by fairly bright acidity and tannins that have a strong cedary overlay and flow into a cedar-laced finish. There's lots of oak, but also lots of fruit, and the two balance fairly well, though at present the oak comes out in the end; this will change as the wine ages, and it will be pleasant in a slightly international key. If you like the style you will enjoy it, but do give it a couple of years to digest the wood.
2 stars
Eredi Lodali Lorens Barbaresco DOCG 2008Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents and some sour berry fruit supported by considerable cedar and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's fairly bright, with rich cherry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit and mineral acidity, and peppery tannins that have a cedary overlay to them and flow into a fairly long finish that gradually settles into cedar. It's middle of the road, and quite young; it needs a year or two to digest the oak it has eaten, at which point it will work quite nicely with roasts or stews, and also have the capacity to age nicely for a decade or more.
2 stars
Terre da Vino La Casa in Collina Barbaresco DOCG 2008 Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with considerable hardwood ash and cedar supported by sea salt and some menthol, and balsamic accents, and some underlying berry fruit that isn't really strong but does emerge. On the palate it's fairly rich, and more savory and mineral than fruit driven, with savory minerality and some sour berry fruit acidity supported by tannins that are warm and slightly splintery at this stage, and flow into a rather bitter mineral finish. I'd have liked greater richness to the fruit.
1 star
Cà del Baio Valgrande Barbaresco DOCG 2008Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish accents that bring peach fuzz and almonds to mind, laced with red berry fruit and spice; it's very young and still coming together. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by dusky bitterness and sour cherry acidity, and by tannins that are steely though very young, and flow into a clean fairly bitter finish. Quite pleasant in a fairly traditional key, and it is drinkable, but it has a long way to go before it reaches its peak. I'd give it 3-5 years at least, and if I had more bottles give some considerably more.
88-90
Azienda Agricola Molino Ausario Barbaresco DOCG 2008Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and slight almandine in the rim. Fiarly rich bouquet with berry fruit mingled with some hardwood ash and nose-tingling spice with slight hints of gum Arabic as well; as it opens the chemical accents take precedence over the fruit, and this is in part youth. On the palate it's fairly rich, with ripe jammy berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have a fairly intense cedar-laced peppery burr, and flow into a fairly long cedary finish. It's a bit heavily oaked, and quite ripe -- the fruit is jammy -- and once it has absorbed the oak will be fairly international in style; if you like riper fruit driven wines you will enjoy it. But give it a year at least to come together.
2 stars
Pertinace Marcarini Barbaresco DOCG 2008Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, and penetrating, with greenish cedar and some wood smoke mingled with some spice and warmth; there's not much fruit however. On the palate it's fairly intense, with sour cherry fruit supported by moderate sour berry fruit acidity and tannins that have a distinct cedary burr and flow into a fairly long rather bitter cedar laced finish. It's heavily oaked, and if you like wines that have a degree of oak you will enjoy it. If you like them less you will like it less.
1 star
Pertinace Vigneto Nervo Barbaresco DOCG 2008Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar and vegetal notes mingled with some leaf tobacco and a fair amount of alcohol and some underlying pungency. Not much fruit, though there is some sourness, and as it opens some lacquer emerges. On the palate it's fairly rich, with moderate fruit supported more by minerality than acidity, and by tannins that hare smooth and do reveal an oaky component that carries through into a fairly spicy finish that does have some sour berry fruit accents. It made me think; it feels like it's in an unfortunate phase, and may come together in an interesting way, aging gracefully. I'm reserving judgment because it has promise that's not coming though.
Ceretto Bricco Asili Bernardot Barbaresco DOCG 2008Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and airy, with savory notes and sea salt supporting spice and oak, which overshadow fruit. On the palate it's fairly rich, with warm sour cherry fruit that is supported by moderate acidity and tannins that have a cedary burr and flow into a fairly long sweet cedar laced finish. It's quite young and needs time; at which point it will be fairly direct in a fairly international key.
2 stars
Grasso Fratelli Vallegrande Barbaresco DOCG 2008Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a dusky spicy greenish key, and while there is much spice and a fair amount of alcohol there's not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense sour berry fruit supported by tannins that are powerfully oaked and very dry, flowing into a splintery dry finish with lasting bitterness. At present the fruit is completely overwhelmed, and while the oak will fold in some with time I wonder if it will ever fold in enough.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Orlando Abrigo Rocche Meruzzano Barbaresco DOCG 2008 Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense and quite ripe, with prune fruit supported by greenish cedar and some peppery spice; it gives an impression of considerable concentration and quite a bit of oak. On the palate it's full and powerful, with peppery spice and cedar more than fruit, while there isn't much acidity, and the tannins are decidedly oak-laced. It's heavily oaked, to the point that wood overshadows fruit, and though things may change in the future they also may not.
1 star
Rizzi Pajore Barbaresco DOCG 2008 Almandine with pale black reflections and almandine rim. One of the paler wines of the morning. The bouquet is elegant, with rosa canina and floral accents mingled with slight peach, red berry fruit, and some mentholated notes, and also underlying spice. Quite young but promising in a traditional key. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit that has slight greenish accents and is supported by warm vegetal acidity -- something Nebbiolo can display -- and by smooth sweet tannins that have a hint of steel to them, and work more with finesse than raw power. Pleasant in a very young traditional key, and will also age well for many years. By comparison with most of the 2008 wines it's more graceful, and if you're traditionally minded you will like it.
88-90
Rizzi Nervo Fondetta Barbaresco DOCG 2008 Fairly pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim; it's paler than most of the wines poured today. The bouquet is in mid stride, with a fair amount of cedar and some greenish vegetal notes, and also some vegetal spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's moderately intense with fairly generic sour berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and tannins that are firm, but not yet steely. I'd have liked a little more richness and brightness to the fruit, which is present but doesn't really lead.
1 star
Vigin Noemy Barbaresco DOCG 2008 Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to white. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of cedar, and some spice, but not much fruit; oak definitely predominates. On the palate it's ample, with minerality more than fruit supported by mineral acidity and tannins that have a great deal of cedar to them, and flow into a fairly long cedar laced finish with some bitter coffee grounds and cocoa; it's like licking a barrel slat dipped in wine. Too much oak for me.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Nada Giuseppe Casot Barbaresco DOCG 2008Almandine with brownish black reflections and orangeish highlights and rim. The bouquet is balsamic, with leaf tobacco and some ml mingled with slight greenish accents and some rosa canina, and some sweetness that adds depth. Very traditional. On the palate it's full, with delicate rose-laced sour berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity that has some leathery accents, and by tannins that are warm and slightly splintery in youth, and flow into a clean bright leather and dried-leaf laced sour berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. Quite pleasant in a very traditional style, and though one could drink it now it will improve considerably with time, and age nicely for at least a decade. If you are traditionally minded you will like it, and even if you're of more modern tastes you will find things to enjoy, especially as it ages.
88-90
Wines from NeiveFontanabianca Bordini Barbaresco DOCG 2008Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is spicy, with unusual banana aromas that are I think wood-fruit interaction supported by peppery spice and some cedar. On the palate it's frankly generic, with moderate fruit supported by tannic minerality and peppery spice that carry though into a fairly long peppery finish. The fruit is overshadowed by wood, and I'm not sure it will ever emerge from this situation.
1 star
Francone I Patriarchi Barbaresco DOCG 2008Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit funky, with barnyard tang mingled with yellow peach and some greenish accents; there's also slight musty dried orange peel, but not much fruit. On the palate it's fairly full, with minerality and spice more than fruit supported by tannins that have peppery accents and very faint gingersnap sweetness, and flow into a tannic finish. I'd have liked more fruit, which simply isn't there at present. It may emerge but then again it may not.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Montaribaldi Palazzina Barbaresco DOCG 2008 Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, and greenish, with quite a bit of cedar and some polished leather, with underlying penetrating acidity, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with moderate generic fruit that's largely overshadowed by the tannins, which are distinctly oaky and lay a veneer over the tongue, while direction comes more from bitterness and minerality than acidity. It's lacking in fruit and brightness, forcing the tannins to come lead the way.
1 star
Negro Angelo e Figli Cascinotta Barbaresco DOCG 2008Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense and a bit unusual, with powerful sweaty redhead of the sort I associate more with Sauvignon supported by sea salt and some berry fruit, which takes second place to the sweat, while there is also some yellow peach, and as it opens the sweat shifts towards leather and leaf tobacco, while the peach gains in intensity and a fair amount of alcohol also emerges. It's like one of those people who doesn't pass unobserved. On the palate it's full, with cherry plum fruit supported by some cedar laced acidity and tannins that have a degree of oakyness to them, more savory than bitter, and flow into a long warm finish. It's a bit unusual, and if one were to ask me what it was away from Piemonte I'm not sure I would have guessed Barbaresco, at least not in this phase of its evolution; this said, it has a certain liveliness to it, and will drink well with succulent roasts or stews, and may also do interesting things as it ages.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Piero Busso Mondino Barbaresco DOCG 2008 Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish cedar and some spice, and a fair amount of alcohol as well. Not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied and rather mineral, with minerality predominating over fruit, and spicy, peppery tannins that flow into a warm peppery finish. I'd have liked more fruit and brighter fruit driven acidity than it displays; what comes out is more oak and the oak and tannins carry the show.
1 star
Cascina Saria Barbaresco DOCG 2008Lively black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to white. The bouquet is moderately intense and somewhat funky, with cedar and slight barnyard tang supported by some spice, and some savory accents. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and bitter, with minerality and bitter graphite laced tannins that have a peppery burr, while there isn't much fruit to provide depth or interest.
1 star
Rivetto Cà Vanin Barbaresco DOCG 2008Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange; by comparison with many of the Neive wines it's a bit paler and more garnet colored. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a mineral key, with some pungent accents and slight leaf tobacco, which gains in intensity as it opens, and there are also slight hints of sweetness too. Not quite rosa canina though I had the feeling it could be lurking off stage. On the palate it's not as bright as I had hoped; there is some sour berry fruit, and some berry fruit acidity, but the tannins are peppery and powerful enough that they take over, leading into a decidedly savory finish with some savory accents.
1 star
Villadoria Barbaresco DOCG 2008Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is bitter, with moderate graphite shavings supported by savory accents and camphor-laced cedar with underlying spice; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's a bit brighter than I expected, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a slight peppery burr and flow into a fairly dry tannic finish. It's in mid stride, but the fruit shows promise; I would give it 3-5 years because it may develop nicely, though there will always be an oaky component to it.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Rivetti Massimo Froi Barbaresco DOCG 2008Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with bright berry fruit supported by cedar and some floral accents; it's nicely balanced though very young, and needs time. On the palate it's fairly rich, with pleasant cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have a warm cedar-laced burr, but complement rather than overshadow the wine, and carry into a fairly long rather bitter cedar laced finish. Pleasant, in a middle of the road key, and will also age nicely for many years. But do give it a couple to get its bearings before you open it.
2 stars
Cascina Luisin Sorì Paolin Barbaresco DOCG 2008Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling overtones orange. The bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish cedar accents and some spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with moderately rich cherry fruit supported by mineral acidity and by tannins that are fairly bright, and steely, and flow into a warm mineral finish with a fairly bright tannic underpinning that becomes savory as it fades. It's quite young, and working though the oak, but should clean up nicely in the space of a couple of years, and age well for a decade or more.
2 stars
Antica Casa Vinicola Scarpa Tettineive Barbaresco DOCG 2008Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. Paler than many. The bouquet is a bit rustic, with balsamic notes and some stable straw mingled with wood smoke and sea salt, and some leather and leaf tobacco as well; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's fairly rich, with minerality more than fruit supported by tannins that have a peppery burr, and flow into a clean mineral finish with leaf tobacco laced tannins that gradually give way to savory bitterness. It's fairly traditional in style, but I might have liked a little more fruit. With time it may do interesting things.
2 stars
Battaglio Barbaresco DOCG 2008Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is spicy and greenish, with peppery pungency but not much fruit at all. Brambly greenness such one can almost see the thorns, but not fruit. On the palate it's a bit brighter than I expected, though still green, with spicy greenish accents and cedar more than fruit supported by some savory notes, and flowing into a warm tannic finish that's fairly long.
1 star
Castello di Neive Santo Stefano Barbaresco DOCG 2008Pale almandine with brownish-black reflections aln almandine rim paling to dusky orange. The bouquet is intense, with quite a bit of greenish cedar, and a fair amount of alcohol, but little in the way of fruit. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggests, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a warm sour berry fruit finish with savory underpinning. The nose is behind the palate and I would give the wine a year, perhaps two to develop; it should clean up nicely in a fairly traditional key.
2 stars
Barale Fratelli Serraboella Barbaresco DOCG 2008Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with greenish red berry and plum fruit supported by spice and some penetrating acidity, with slight leaf tobacco as well. Quite young, but with pleasing depth. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich sour cherry plum fruit supported by dusky greenish tannins and some sea salt laced mineral acidity, which flow into a clean slightly splintery tannic finish. It's very young and coming together, but promises nicely in a fairly traditional key, and may become graceful, in a rather ethereal way.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Pelissero Pasquale Bricco San Giuliano Barbaresco DOCG 2008Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with quite a bit of spicy cedar laced with some sweetness and supported by quite a bit of alcohol; it brings to mind old large wood. On the palate it's full, with spicy minerality more than fruit, supported by mineral acidity and tannins that have a warm peppery burr and flow into a fairly long tannic finish. Lots of oak, which overshadows the fruit.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Ressia Canova Barbaresco DOCG 2008Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is greenish, with some vegetal accents and some spice mingled with spice and leaf tobacco. Not much fruit. On the palate it's fairly bright, with sour cherry fruit supported by sea salt and bright sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are fairly smooth and flow into a tart berry fruit finish. The palate is more along than the nose, and displays fruit that has pleasant acidity; I would give it at least a year for the nose to develop, and then drink it with a steak.
2 stars
Vigin Nonnorlando Barbaresco DOCG 2008Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is powerful, with quite a bit of oak that presents as cedar in spades, and some underlying bitterness. On the palate it's ample, with more fruit than I would have expected from the nose, sour cherry with some berry fruit acidity, which is overcome in the finish by tannins that have a decidedly cedary overlay and flow into considerable slightly savory cedar in the finish. The fruit is enough to emerge from under the oak ate the outset, but then fades if it succeeds in digesting the oak with time it will be fairly bright in a very international key, it does show some promise, but needs time.
1 star
Azienda Bricco Grilli Lequio Battaglio Serragrilli Barbaresco DOCG 2008Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is penetrating, with some greenish accents and spice, and oak supported by a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's ample, with minerality and tannic spice more than fruit, and it flows into a tannic peppery finish. I'd have liked more fruit and more acidity.
1 star
Marchesi di Barolo Serragrilli Barbaresco DOCG 2008Fairly deep almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents and spice mingled with some berry fruit and slight jammy sweetness, while as it opens cedar also emerges. Quite young in a fairly international key. On the palate it's full, with peppery plum cherry fruit supported by minerality more than acidity, and by tannins that are smooth and have a cedary underpinning, and flow into a fairly quick bitter savory berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. It's fairly international in style and in mid stride; it needs another year to get its bearings, and is worth waiting for because the fruit is there. I would expect it to age well for 8-10 years at least.
2 stars
Azienda Vitivinicola Filippino San Cristoforo Barbaresco DOCG 2008Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is vegetal with penetrating greenish accents and spice, and some sea salt as well; as it opens there are also slight jammy plum accents and a fair amount of warmth. On the palate it's fairly rich, with berry fruit supported by considerable peppery spice and tannins that extend a peppery purr over the wine, flowing into a decidedly tannic finish that's quite dry. Too much oak, especially on the palate. And I fear that the fruit will likely never manage to overcome it.
1 star
Punset Campo Quadro Barbaresco DOCG 2008Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is unusual, with meaty aromas that bring to mind the sort of salty sugo alla Bolognese one gets as a cheap eatery, and as it opens French onion soup also enters the mix. A first for me. On the palate it's savory, to the point of bringing bouillon to mind, with berry fruit supported by peppery tannins; it's by far the saltiest wine poured today, and flows into a warm rather savory finish. It's absolutely atypical, but does have a certain verve to it, and will work well with a succulent steak or fatty roast, along the lines of leg of lamb. It also has the feel of something that is still coming together, and I am not sure a score now will reflect the future.
Azienda Agricola Rinaldi Pietro San Cristoforo Barbaresco DOCG 2008 Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is oaky, with cedar and dusky shadow mingled with some spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with minerality more than fruit driving the show, and a fair amount of peppery spice as well that draws into a peppery finish. I'd have liked more and brighter fruit and acidity; both give way to oak, which carries the show, doing the best that it can, but fruit is more interesting.
1 star
Punset Basarin Barbaresco DOCG 2008Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rather funky, with pungent barnyard tang -- wet stable straw -- mingled with some spice and savory accents. Not much fruit. On the palate it's a bit brighter than one might have expected, with savory accents and some berry fruit acidity supported by tannins that are peppery and flow into a fairly long peppery finish. Wines that are funky in this way on the nose often have brighter balsamic fruit, but this isn't the case here.
1 star
Giacosa Fratelli Basarin Barbaresco DOCG 2008Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with ripe cherry plum fruit supported by jammy accents and some violets; it has an opulent freshness, and is quite different from the majority of the wines poured. On the palate it's quite ripe, with ample cherry plum fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly quick dusky finish that reveals some plum. It's softer and more international in key, and would be pleasant, though I found it a bit short -- it fades faster than I might have liked, and this is a pity.
1 star
Moccagatta Basarin Barbaresco DOCG 2008 Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is powerful, with intense greenish cedar and slight peach fuzz. A lot of oak, which overshadows the grapes. On the palate it's bitter, with fruit that immediately surrenders to cedar that carries into a cedar laced finish; it's like licking a barrel slat dipped in wine, and though the oak will fold in some with time I doubt it will ever fold in completely enough to allow the fruit to emerge.
1 star
Giacosa Fratelli Basarin Vigna Gianmaté Barbaresco DOCG 2008Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is pungent, and balsamic with a fair amount of oak as well. Heat and not much fruit. On the palate it's a bit brighter than the sìnose suggests, with warm sour berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have warm balsamic cedar accents and flow into a warm slightly candied fruit finish with tannic underpinning. It's not defective, but is strange.
1 star
Adriano Marco e Vittorio Basarin Barbaresco DOCG 2008Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, with vegetal accents and greenish notes mingled with some berry fruit spice and slight jammy notes. On the palate it's ample, with berry fruit supported more by peppery tannins than by acidity, and it flows into an angry peppery finish. I'd have liked more depth and richness to the fruit than I found.
1 star
Lequio Ugo Gallina Barbaresco DOCG 2008Almandine with brownish black reflections and almandine rim; it's among the paler wines of the day. The bouquet is a bit rustic, with balsamic notes mingled with stable straw and some spice, and supported by sour berry fruit acidity. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by pleasant sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are smooth, and sweet, and have slight velvety accents, while the finish, which is long and has sour berry fruit accents, also displays some of the balsam that was present on the nose, and flows into lasting warmth. Quite pleasant in a decidedly old style key, and will drink very well with grilled meats or roasts now, and also has the wherewithal to age well for many years. If you're a modernist it won't work as well for you, but if you're traditionally minded you will enjoy it.
2 stars
Oddero Poderi e Cantine Gallina Barbaresco DOCG 2008Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit musty, with wet cardboard mingled with spice and greenish accents. On the palate it's full, with generic mineral laced fruit supported more by minerality than acidity, and by tannins that are a bit splintery, and flow into a peppery tannic finish.
1 star
Castello di Neive Gallina Barbaresco DOCG 2008Pale almandine with brownish black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with chalk and some greenish accents supporting spice and minerality more than fruit, with some rather penetrating cedar as well. On the palate it's a bit sweeter than I expected, with plum cherry fruit supported by minerality more than fruit driven acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight cedary burr and flow into a fairly long plum laced finish. It's riper than many of the wines, and the palate is ahead of the nose, which is still sorting through its issues. I'd give it a year at least to get its bearings, and think about it if I preferred riper as opposed to more aggressive wines; I think it will clean up nicely in a fairly international key.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Cascina Bruciata Rio Sordo Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2006 Almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with balsamic accents mingled with some berry fruit and to a greater degree gum Arabic, and also some spice. On the palate it's ample, with rather dusky berry fruit supported more by minerality and balsamic tannins than acidity, and flows into a rather savory bitter tannic finish. I'd have liked brighter fruit, because what there is is rather settled, and will I fear continue to settle with time.
1 star
Castello di Verduno Rabajà Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, in a vegetal key with a fair amount of cedar as well, and some hardwood ash. On the palate it's ample, with berry fruit that's a little richer than I expected supported by moderate acidity and tannins that have an angry cedar laced burr and flow into a decidedly tannic finish. It's heavily oaked, too heavily for me, though the fruit is pleasant. I don't know how well it will do in absorbing the oak, however.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Nada Giuseppe Casot Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2006Almandine with brownish black reflections and orange rim. The bouquet is rustic, with warm balsamic acidity supporting some green leather and slight stable straw, with underlying barnyard tang. Pleasant, but you have to like the style. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have warm balsamic notes and some sweetness to them, and flow into a fairly long balsam-laced finish. Quite old style, with rustic overtones, and if you like this you will enjoy it very much. If you prefer a more modern style it won't work as well for you.
2 stars
Piazzo Armando Nervo Vigna Giaia Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2006Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit supported by greenish cedary pungency and some cedar laced spice. On the palate it's fairly rich, and a bit riper than I expected from the nose, though the tannins are angry and peppery, and flow into a decidedly spicy finish. It needs time, at least a year, and I would give it because there is some acidity that will give the wine the time it needs. A score now will not reflect the future.
Azienda Agricola Orlando Abrigo Vigna Rongalio Meruzzano Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish peppery spice that has some balsamic overtones and quite a bit of wood smoke. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich slightly greenish berry fruit supported by sour mineral acidity and peppery tannins that do have some oaky accents to them, and flow into a clean peppery tannic finish. It's fairly international in key and quite young; it needs at least a year to come together and two would be better; it will drink well with grilled meats or roasts, and will also age nicely for at least a decade thereafter. It should develop nicely in a fairly muscular middle of the road key.
2 stars
F.lli Casetta Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and rather green, with a fair amount of spice and some green leather as well. Not much fruit. On the palate it's brighter than I expected, with sour cherry fruit supported by tannins that are peppery, and by sour berry fruit acidity that flow into a fairly long peppery finish. It's fairly aggressive, but this is also youth, and will drink well with roasts or stews in the mid term, though I would give it a year overtones get its bearings and come together.
2 stars
Francone Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2006Pale almandine with brownish black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit laced with leaf tobacco and some leather, and some warmth as well. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by bright sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a warm peppery burr, and flow into a clean fairly rich sour berry fruit finish. It's quite young, but displays pleasing vigor in a middle of the road key and will work well now with grilled meats or hearty roasts, and also has the wherewithal to age well for many years.
2 stars
Castello di Neive Santo Stefano Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2006Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of cedar mingled with some greenish accents, leather and some leaf tobacco, while there is also alcohol, but not much in the way of fruit. Smoky pungency, rather. On the palate it's full, with bright sour berry fruit supported by graphite shaving bitterness and tannins that have a youthful peppery burr and flow into a clean peppery finish that's fairly young. It's a very young wine, but displays sufficient fruit to hold while the tannins smooth, and should clean up nicely in a middle of the road key, and age nicely for a decade or more.
2 stars
Punset Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, with savory balsamic accents and some hardwood ash supported by slight peppery spice and some greenish leaf tobacco; there's not that much fruit, though -- more tobacco and spice. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by deft sour cherry acidity, and by tannins that are smooth though they do have some peppery spice to them, and flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish with peppery underpinning. Pleasant in a very young muscular key, and will drink well with roasts or stews now, though it also has the legs to age nicely for 10-15 years.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Rivetti Massimo Serraboella Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2006 Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim; it's paler than many of the wines poured today. The bouquet is fairly intense, and quite young, with red berry fruit supported by berry fruit spice and some alcohol, and by some herbal accents that are quite typical of Nebbiolo. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity and by tannins that are somewhat splintery, and flow into a fairly long tannic finish that gradually dries, revealing some youthful cedar. It needs at least a year and two would be better, and but is pleasant in a muscular middle of the road key, and though I would give it a year at least to come together, could work now with a steak or roast. Expect it to age well for at least a decade.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Roberto Sarotto Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2006 Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is penetrating, with quite a bit of cedar and some spice mingled with some pungency. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and frankly oaky, with minerality and oak more than fruit, and some underlying sweetness that is likely alcohol-related, flowing into a rather sweet tannic finish with cedary underpinning. Too much oak for me.
1 star
Dante Rivetti Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2006Almandine with brownish black reflections; it's one of the paler wines. The bouquet is not rustic, but old style, with leather and some leaf tobacco supported by savory accents and a certain animal pungency mingled with sea salt. On the palate it's fairly bright, with warm savory berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity that does have some acute notes, and a slight balsamic sweetness, and tannins that are peppery and flow into a warm peppery finish that is quite tart, and penetrating, and continues at length. It's a sleeper; from the nose one wouldn't expect the aggressiveness that emerges in the finish on the palate. Because of it, the wine will work better with succulent red meats or stews and isn't something to drink by itself. It will, I think age well for a decade or more, and may become ethereal with time.
2 stars
Adriano Marco e Vittorio Basarin Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2006 Lively almandine ruby with some cherry reflections and slight almandine in the rim; it's a bit brighter and more towards ruby than some. The bouquet is fairly intense, with savory balsamic acidity laced with wet horse and some spice. Quite young. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by moderately intense berry fruit acidity and tannins that are rather blocky in youth, but display hints of velvet and should smooth nicely with time. I would give it a couple of years, and expect it to age well for a decade at least thereafter.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Prinsi Fausone Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2006Almandine with brownish black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rustic, with balsamic notes and some lathered horse supported by slight wet stable straw. There's something sunny to it. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich balsam-laced berry fruit supported by greenish accents and fairly bright balsamic acidity, while the tannins have a slight cedar underpinning (new large wood?) and lasting warmth, and flow into a fairly long balsam-laced finish with some graphite shaving bitterness. Pleasant in a fairly traditional key; it needs another couple of years to get its bearings, and will age well for at least a decade thereafter.
2 stars
In 1932 a group of Florentine speleologists excavated the fissure, finding a few cave bear bones mixed with the sediments, and got 70 meters before they discovered an underground lake. When others returned during the drought of 1962, the lake was dry, and they entered a bizarre world of stalactites and fancifully shaped calcite deposits known as concretions, banded calcite curtains, and shafts that either sink into the ground or disappear into the shadows. By now more than four km of tunnels have been explored, and a kilometer is open to the public.
and you get rained on, but it's all worth it to watch the water spatter into the maw of the pit from above. The itinerary then merges with the second.
o get there.
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