Garantito IGP: Siena's Ricciarello is IGP: But What Does it Taste Like?

This time Stefano Tesi takes the stand:



For the Sienese, and, we may as well admit it, especially for the Sienese pastry industry, 2011 will be a year to remember. Symbolic, like 1260, the year the city defeated Florence in the battle of Monteaperti.

Also because, though this time the triumph was more bureaucratic and less striking, the adversaries were in part the same. And the battle, conducted with certificates and reports, was every bit as violent. I'm talking about the so-called "Ricciarello War," an engagement that began in 1996 and had been hard-fought in Florence, Rome and Brussles, until, in 2010, the EU accepted Siena's requests and assigned the city's classic almond macaroons the long-sought-after IGP status.

It took until October 28, however, for the completion of the certification protocol, at which point it became possible to sell "Ricciarelli di Siena IGP." A product that now, with the onset of the Christmas season, will make its appearance on Italian tables. According to EEU law, from now on no sweet labeled Ricciarello di Siena can be made beyond the provincial borders, and all must be made following the rigid production code approved by the EEU.

Obviously, similar sweets made elsewhere aren't Ricciarelli, and this is a red light for the Florentines, Pratesi and Grossetani who have long made similar looking almond-scented sweets that in fact don't contain almonds. Identifying them however as the Ricciarelli, that Pellegrino Artusi called "Sienese" in recipe 629 of his famous book.

As always happens when the subject of brands and industry arises, the problem is not one of local pride. And just as obviously, the IGP battle brought together everyone on the Sienese side, from the Chamber of Commerce to the Fondazione Qualità della Provincia.

The implications go considerably beyond local economics, tourism, local identity, and one-upmanship. The Ricciarello di Siena IGP is the first Italian sweet to obtain IGP status, and a production code that requires the use of specific ingredients. And it is the first time that the name Siena has received protection in the form of geographic recognition. At present the label is being used by just four companies, but another 50 or so could adopt it, and as a result the brand's worth is already esptimated to be several million Euros. "This in an historic moment in which," notes Mauro Rosati, Qualivita's Director, "countires with ample cash reserves, such as Quatar, are investing heavily in this sector to buy protected names that they plan to release onto global markets in the future."

To guarantee the production methods, and in particular, the ingredients used, the University of Siena has gotten involved. The heart of the problem is the almonds. The traditional recipe, and therefore the IGP production code, calls for 30-50% sweet almonds, and up to 6% bitter almonds; the latter are expensive, and therefore some substituted for them with ground apricot pits, or even the de-oiled flours that are the waste product of almond oil extraction. Both substitutes give qualitatively inferior results, but it turns out that they can be detected through a DNA analysis of the oils contained in the ricciarelli, an analysis developed by researchers of the Cogep Laboratories, which are part of the University of Siena.

Everything set?

From a legal standpoint yes: Siena's Ricciarelli are certified, guaranteed, stamped, and inspected.

Unfortunately, however, from a qualitative standpoint, in other words, taste (the Ricciarelli we eat will have to be tasty and enjoyable, no?) the ridged production code says nothing at all. It specifies shape, height, weight, appearance, and firmness. That's it. What would happen, one wonders, if one of these precious ricciarelli tasted like fish, or smelled of lavender, or were too bitter?

I hope people will keep this in mind when it comes time to codify the production of another classic Sienese sweet that is being fought over: Panforte. Its battle began before the Ricciarello Skirmish, and the paperwork was sent to Brussels in 2002. The Sienese do know how to wait...


Published Simultaneously by IGP, I Giovani Promettenti.

We Are:
Carlo Macchi
Kyle Phillips
Luciano Pignataro
Roberto Giuliani
Stefano Tesi

The IGP Barolo Tastings: Verduno, Serralunga and More

The last day of tasting in Wellcom's offices in Alba for the IGP team: 2007 Barolo from the Communes of Verduno and Serralunga, and a few Barolo and Barbaresco wines from older vintages.

Just a few samples from Verduno, but high quality, with beautiful balance.

Serralunga instead, as usual, is striking in its power, which in this vintage was -- in some wines -- accompanied by excessive alcohol and tannins that are quite rustic. Just some, many of the other Serralunga wines instead display the classic tightly woven Serralunghese "megatannins", and with them the sensation is one of almost velvety fullness and balance that continues almost infinitely.

Of the 56 wines we tasted, 11 impressed all of us, and thus became IGP selections, the list of which I posted upon my return to Florence. Here are the notes for all the wines tasted, in the order poured.

Wines from the Commune of Verduno

Commendator G. B. Burlotto Acclivi Barolo DOCG 2007

An IGP Selection Deep black almandine with brilliant black reflections and almandine rim. Elegant bouquet with berry fruit, cherries, violets, and rosa canina; it's quite fresh and as it opens some leaf tobacco and slight leather also emerge. Pleasant. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a spicy burr, and flow into a clean peppery finish with some underlying bitterness. A fresh, lively expression of Barolo that will brighten the day.
2 stars

Alessandria F.lli Barolo DOCG 2007

Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, rather metallic at first swish, with berry fruit and some menthol supported by warm spice; it opens to reveal berry fruit -- cherry and slight raspberry acidity -- with nice depth, and muscular. On the palate it's full, with bright cherry fruit supported by slightly greenish accents, acidity that is slightly lactic with hints of scalded milk, and tannins that have some cedar to them, and flow into a warm splintery tannic finish that again has some lactic acidity to it.
2 stars

Alessandria F.lli San Lorenzo Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet has greenish leaf tobacco and some spice mingled with red berry fruit and some acidity; the effect is airy and rather alcoholic. It's less developed, needs time. On the palate it's bright, with lively red berry fruit supported by tannins that are smooth and fresh, with slightly greenish accents and have a slight burr; the acidity is raspberry and flows into a clean slightly greenish sour berry fruit finish.
2 stars

Alessandria F.lli Monvigliero Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and smoky with some cedar, bright berry fruit supported by cherry acidity and crushed cherries with slight vegetal accents and hints of rosa canina. On the palate it's full, with bright red berry fruit supported by mentholated spice and tannins that have slight greenish cedary notes, and flow into a clean fairly tart cedar laced finish. Nicely balanced in middle of the road key.
2 stars

Alessandria F.lli Gramolere Barolo DOCG 2007

An IGP Selection
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is quite fresh, with elegant floral accents, rosa cainina, cherry fruit, spice, deft cedar, hints of goudron, berry fruit acidity with slight scalded milk, and greenish notes; it's quite harmonious. On the palate it's full, and bright, with dusky cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and slight brambles, and by tannins that are smooth and sweet and flow into an elegant cherry fruit finish. Pleasant and will also age nicely.
2 stars

Sebaste Mauro Monvigliero Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is greenish with leaf tobacco, berry fruit, some spice, and rosa canina; it's lively, with nice acidity, and inviting. On the palate it's bright, with lively berry fruit acidity and bright cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long sour cherry finish with slight dusky tannic underpinning. Pleasant in a fairly traditional key.
2 stars

Wines from the Commune of Serralunga Ascheri Sorano Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fresh, with bright cherry fruit supported by greenish accents, spice, cracked cherries, some leaf tobacco and green leather; it's elegant and powerful On the palate it's bright, with fresh slightly jammy cherry fruit supported by tannins that are a touch drier than expected, some acidity that has scalded milk accents, and flows into a dry finish with some cedar and some berry fruit. Less interesting on palate than nose.
2 stars

Ascheri Sorano Coste e Bricco Barolo DOCG 2007

An IGP Selection Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by some menthol and spice, and chewy cherry fruit; it's fresh and young. On the palate it's full, and powerful, with crushed cherry fruit supported by powerful tannins that have a warm dusky burr, flow into a clean tannic finish. Very young, needs at least a couple of years -- when it's ready it will display nice balance and depth in a middle of the road key.
2 stars

Batasiolo Vigneto Corda della Briccolina Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is powerful, with cherry plum fruit supported by plum accents, alcohol, some acidity, and greenish spice; it displays nice depth in a more international key On the palate it's fairly rich, and a bit less powerful than nose suggests, with tart berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and tannins that have a dusky bitter burr, and flow into a fairly long cedar laced finish with warmth and some bitterness.
2 stars

Batasiolo Vigneto Boscareto Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. Rustic nose, with lathered horse, some balsamic accents, greenish notes, spice, and moderate berry fruit. On the palate it's fairly rich, with slightly balsamic berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins, sea salt, and moderate acidity; in the finish, which is long, the tannins gain a cedary burr. If you like a more traditional style -- it's far from a soft wine -- you will like it.
2 stars

Baudana Luigi Baudana Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is ripe, with candied berry fruit supported by hardwood ash, some menthol alcohol, some spice, and as it opens hints of truffle. On the palate it's bright, and ready, with lively cherry fruit supported by some jammy accents, fairly bright acidity, tannins that have some greenish notes, and a pleasant tannic, spicy finish. Nice depth, fresh, middle of the road key.
2 stars

Baudana Luigi Cerretta Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit with oak and oak bitterness, graphite shavings and dusky penetrating spice; the effect is brooding. On the palate it's bright, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by tannins that separate from the fruit, and have a dry cedar laced burr that needs time to work into wine. At present overly tannic with too much cedar.
1 star

Casa Vinicola E. di Mirafiori Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is smoky and savory with berry fruit supported by dusky brooding greenish mentholated accents and some balsam, with warmth and animal hair. An interesting mix. On the palate it's ample, and laxer than expected, with moderate ripe greenish berry fruit with slight jammy notes supported by moderate acidity, and smooth dusky tannins that have slight bitter accents and flow into a greenish finish. I found it a touch settled, but would give it time because I think it will likely come around.
2 stars

Cascina Cucco Barolo DOCG 2007

Crystalline almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with plum cherry fruit supported by spice, jammy notes, some menthol, goudron, some cedar and spice. Massive. On the palate it's full, with greenish berry fruit supported by dusky tannic bitterness and some greenish berry fruit acidity that flows into a clean rather greenish finish; it's pleasant in a fairly large key, though it displays some depth as well, and the acidity provides nice direction. It grew on me.
2 stars

Cascina Cucco Cerrati Vigna Cucco Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by berry fruit jam, some greenish vegetal accents, spice, and slightly brambly acidity. On the palate it's bright, with ripe cherry fruit supported by moderately intense tannins and by fairly deft berry fruit acidity; it's more graceful than powerful, and displays pleasing finesse on the palate will become ethereal with time
2 stars

Cascina Cucco Cerrati Barolo DOCG 2007

An IGP Selection
Deep black almandine with black reflections The bouquet is rich, and slightly jammy, with cherry fruit supported by berry fruit jam and some greenish accents, slight concord grapes, slight vegetal notes, slight cedar. On the palate it's scrappier than the nose suggests, with moderate berry fruit supported by cedary tannins that have a distinct burr and flow into a warm tannic finish. It needs time, because the tannins are out of whack, but does have considerable potential. The score reflects today.
2 stars

Ceretto Bricco Rocche Prapò Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and cooked, with jammy berry fruit supported by stewed cherries, considerable vanilla, and some spice. A bit overblown. On the palate it's ample and soft, with cooked cherry plum fruit supported by fairly deft plum acidity and by tannins that are warm and sweet with a cedary cocoa cast that carries into a long finish that becomes quite dry. Very ripe, and if you like this oaked style you will enjoy it, but you have to like it.
1 star

Gabutti Azienda Agricola - Boasso Serralunga Barolo DOCG 2007

Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is eye opening, with cooked cherry fruit and some cedar, some jammy accents, and also some badly overripe berry fruit of the sort that begins to be sharp. On the palate it's ample, with moderate almost brandied berry fruit supported by warmth and ample very dry tannins that dry out the mouth. Lacks substance.
1 star

Gabutti Azienda Agricola - Boasso Margheria Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet has ripe cherry fruit supported by warmth, alcohol, greenish accents and some spice with slight dusky shadow. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by bright acidity and by tannins that are smooth, flowing into a bright sour berry fruit finish. The tannins aren't quite up to snuff; they're a little thin and a bit green. I'd have liked more depth and richness to the palate, and would give it time, in the hopes that it becomes ethereal
1 star

Gabutti Azienda Agricola - Boasso Gabutti Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy cherry fruit supported by alcohol, sweetness, and some leather; it's quite ripe. On the palate it's fruity on the outset, with tannins that start smooth but become peppery and quite angry, covering the tongue with a cedary veneer. It needs at least a couple of years for the tannins to fold in, and they may never really do so.
1 star

Germano Ettore Cerretta Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit rustic, with balsamic accents and some wet stable straw, wet leather, savory notes, sea salt, and penetrating acidity minerality, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with very ripe cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and some greenish notes; the tannins are warm and have a slight burr, and flow into a dry tannic finish. It's very young in a fairly traditional key, but I would have liked more brightness and verve, and a touch more fullness. It may do nice things with times, but the dryness of the finish is worrisome.
2 stars

Germano Ettore Prapò Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with floral accents, spice, berry fruit, some duskiness, jammy notes, and some bell pepper On the palate it's full, with bright cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and dusky tannins that flow into a greenish berry fruit finish with warm tannic underpinning. Nice depth though quite young, in a fairly traditional key, and will become ethereal with time
2 stars

Germano Ettore Serralunga Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. Rustic nose, with balsamic accents, wet stable straw, some wet leather, lathered horse, some bramble, and rosa canina, On the palate it's savory, with sour cherry fruit supported by tannins that have some stable straw accents to them and flow into a fairly long tannic finish with mineral accents. Old style taken to extremes, and you have to like the style to enjoy the wine. If you do (and I rather did) you will enjoy it and it will become ethereal with time.
1 star

Gigi Rosso Airone Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit supported by spice and some minerality; with slight greenish peppery accents and peppery spice. Pleasant. On the palate it's full, with bright fresh cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that have considerable structure and a youthful burr, it flows into a moderately long berry fruit finish. Still coming together in a fairly traditional key, and will improve.
2 stars

Grimaldi Bruna Badarina Barolo DOCG 2007

Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and spicy, with red berry fruit supported by mentholated greenish accents, some cedar, and slight scalded milk. On the palate it's full, with bright ripe cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity, slight minerality, and tannins that are warm and have a youthful burr, flowing into a rather bitter finish in which some cedar emerges. Very young -- it needs a couple of years -- in a middle of the road and may become quite interesting with time.
2 stars

Grimaldi Bruna Bricco Ambrogio Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep slightly brownish almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is powerful, and a bit cooked, with berry fruit and cedar mingled with brambly accents and hints of camphor, nose tingling acidity, and some spice; the fruit is eclipsed by acidity and bramble On the palate it's ample and rich, with bright cherry raspberry fruit on outset that's fairly sweet, supported by berry fruit acidity, and by moderately intense tannins that are fairly sweet.
2 stars

Grimaldi Bruna Camilla Barolo DOCG 2007

Brownish almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit and some greenish notes, slight camphor, cedar, and considerable greenish spice. On the palate it's full, with rather greenish berry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity, spice, and tannins that are smooth, flowing into a clean fresh finish that displays nice depth and elegance.
2 stars

Manzone Paolo Serralunga Barolo DOCG 2007

Slightly brownish almandine with black reflections, and almandine rim paling to orange. It looks older than it is. The bouquet is eye opening, with bell peppers, old leather, menthol, some pee (of the human variety), some vegetal notes, and as it opens some of the animal notes fade in favor of unusually floral aromatics reminiscent of Ruché. On the palate it's empty and sweet, with berry fruit that again brings Ruché to mind, supported by tannins that are rather splintery and by moderate acidity. Odd.
1 star

Manzone Paolo Meirame Barolo DOCG 2007

Black almandine with black reflections, slight browning at the rim. The bouquet is intense and quite oaky, with clean cedar of the barrel slat variety, some spice, and not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with richer than expected berry fruit supported by jammy berry fruit acidity that has slight candied accents, and tannins that are monolithic and cedar laced but not dry, flows into a cedar and berry fruit finish. New style, and needs time for the nose to come together and emerge. If it follows the palate be pleasant in a modern key.
2 stars

Massolino Vigna Rionda Parussi Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit supported by greenish accents and some spice, and also some cedar. On the palate it's bright, with fresh cherry fruit supported by deft acidity, and by fairly light, deft tannins with some mineral underpinning that flow into a clean mineral cherry finish with tannic underpinning.
2 stars

Massolino Vigna Rionda Margheria Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is vegetal, with greenish accents, some spice, leaf tobacco, and duskiness. On the palate it's full, with jammy cherry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity and tannins that have sweet vanilla accents, and flow into a fairly long tannic vanilla laced finish with lasting bitterness and some underlying sweetness. The fruit is a little more tired than I might have liked.
1 star

Massolino Vigna Rionda Parafada Barolo DOCG 2007

An IGP Selection
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with powerful rosa canina mingled with leaf tobacco and green leather, and underlying spice. Deft in a traditional key. On the palate it's bright, with bright cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a youthful splintery burr and flow into a warm tannic finish with underlying berry fruit. Pleasant in a traditional key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Palladino Serralunga Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with leaf tobacco and leather supported by nose tingling spice, some smoke, and brambles with some sweetish accents. Pleasant. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by tannins that have slight peppery accents, and by fairly bright sour berry fruit acidity that flows into a peppery black pepper finish. Pleasant but very young in a traditional key, needs another year to get its bearings.
2 stars

Palladino Parafada Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is moderately intense, and brambly, with some leather, acidity, savory accents, and bramble, but not much fruit. On the palate it's fairly rich, with moderate berry fruit supported by peppery accents that carry into a decidedly tannic finish. I found it lacking in verve and oomph.
1 star

Pio Cesare Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is powerful, with intense cedar and some leather, penetrating, like a person in your face, but not too pleasant. On the palate it's dry, with moderate berry fruit supported by tannins that have a bitter cedar laced burr that becomes splintery in the finish.
1 star

Pio Cesare Ornato Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with candied berry fruit with some cedar and slight greenish accents, and fairly intense spice; it's charged in a ripe key. On the palate it's full, and ripe, with cherry plum fruit supported by warm tannins that have a cedary burr and moderate acidity, flowing into a greenish fairly dry tannic finish. Youth but also extraction from oak. If you like the style, which is ripe but red more than plum fruit, and like extraction you will enjoy it. I found it oaky.
2 stars

Porro Guido Lazzairasco Barolo DOCG 2007

An IGP Selection
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim; it's paler than some. The bouquet is rich, with mentholated berry fruit with vegetal accents, bell peppers, spice, some rosa canina, some leaf tobacco, some nose tingling acidity and slight wet leather. Comes across as airy. On the palate it's fresh, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are smooth and fairly rich, deft. Graceful in a middle of the road key, with pleasant richness of fruit, revolves more around finesse than power, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Porro Guido S. Caterina Barolo DOCG 2007

An IGP Selection
Almandine with black reflections, almandine rim, and bright ruby reflections too. The bouquet is fairly intense, and jammy with greenish accents and berry fruit, some menthol, some heather, and considerable spice, nutmeg in particular. On the palate it's quite ripe, with berry fruit that has some plum (ripe, not prune) accents and a cheeky slightly vegetal feel, and is supported by moderate acidity and tannins that have a peppery burr, flowing into a bright finish with ripe fruit and moderate tannins. I'd have liked a little more depth and verve to the tannins, which do dry some, and need a year to fold in. This said, it will age nicely, in a pleasant middle of the road key, and displays considerable potential
2 stars

Rivetto Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with spice and some fruit, but more nose tingling acidity, and if one insists plum and greenish accents. Closed. Brooding. Big. On the palate it's ample and soft, with ripe cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity, ample tannins that are smooth with a greenish burr and flow into a fairly long full finish. If you like the style you will enjoy it, but you have to like the style.
2 stars

Schiavenza Serralunga Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is rich, with mentholated rosa canina, floral notes, leaf tobacco, and some underlying berry fruit. On the palate it's bright, and rich, with pleasant berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and brisk mineral acidity. Deft in a fairly traditional key, and has quite a bit to say.
2 stars

Schiavenza Broglio Barolo DOCG 2007

Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with leather and leaf tobacco mingled with some floral accents, and as it opens cedar. On the palate it's fairly rich, in a middle of the road key, with bright cherry fruit supported by lively cherry acidity and by tannins that are fairly splintery, a factor of youth, and flow into a clean rather bitter finish with a peppery tannic underpinning. It needs time, at least a year, and will be pleasant in a fairly rich key.
2 stars

Schiavenza Prapò Barolo DOCG 2007

An IGP Selection
Bright almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is deft, with berry fruit and some red berry fruit supported by leather, leaf tobacco, some rosa canina, and pleasant spice. Elegant. On the palate it's bright, with lively red berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and tannins that are smooth and fresh, and flow into a clean savory finish with tannic underpinning. Elegant, and will drink very well with foods; it also has considerable aging potential and will do interesting things with time.
2 stars

Sciavenza Bricco Bricco Cerretta Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry plum fruit supported by pleasant floral accents, hints of violets and rosa canina, some menthol, and spice. Nice balance and depth, quite fresh. On the palate it's bright, with mentholated berry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity -- some raspberry and some plum -- and by tannins that have a slight splintery burr that emerges powerfully in the finish. Quite fresh, but the tannins need time to fold in. I'd expect it to age well, improving and becoming ethereal with time
2 stars

Sebaste Mauro Prapò Barolo DOCG 2007

An IGP Selection Deep almandine with black reflections almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and rich, with greenish vegetal notes, berry fruit, spice, leaf tobacco some greenish cedar, alcohol, and quite intense nose tingling spice. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit -- I had expected more -- supported by moderate acidity and tannins that are moderately intense, and have a splintery burr with some chocolaty accents. Given the nose I had expected somewhat more on the palate, but it is still very young and coming together.
2 stars

Three 2007 Barbaresco Wines

Fontanafredda Rubin Barbaresco DOCG 2007

Lively almandine ruby with brilliant reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fresh, with some menthol and some greenish accents, spice, moderate berry fruit, and some brambles; nice depth in a more delicate key. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and tannins that are warm and have a slight splintery burr, flowing into a tannic finish with lasting warmth and some cocoa; it's still quite young, and needs another couple of years. Expect it to be middle of the road key, and it has considerable potential
2 stars

Rizzi Rizzi Barbaresco DOCG 2007

An IGP Selection
Almandine with ruby reflections and almandine rim; it's paler than many. The bouquet is moderately intense, with rosa canina, mineral notes, some red berry fruit, fairly bright acidity that has hints of tamarind too, and raspberry. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and tannins that have a warm splintery burr and flow into a bright slightly tannic finish. Graceful and very young; it needs 3-5 years.
2 stars

Rizzi Boito Barbaresco DOCG 2007

An IGP Selection
Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and rather metallic at first swish, with nose tingling spice and some wet tree bark, tamarind, tartness, green leather, spice. Opens nicely in a very austere key. On the palate it's full, and rich (without the austerity noted on the nose), with pleasingly ripe cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and moderate berry fruit acidity, which flow into a clean fairly bright berry fruit finish. Pleasant, with nice depth; it's not quite as bright as the Rizzi, but is quite approachable.
2 stars

2006 Barbaresco

Montaribaldi Ricu Barbaresco DOCG 2006

Leathery almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit more tired, with moderate berry fruit and some savory accents, plum cherry fruit and some spice; it's fairly mature and there are balsamic accents as well. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense plum cherry fruit supported by cedar-laced tannins that are quite dry, and flow into a rather bitter very tannic finish.
1 star

2004 Barbaresco

Cortese Giuseppe Rabajà Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2004

Lively ruby with bright reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rustic, with balsamic notes and wet stable straw mingled with some coffee grounds, spice. Powerful and particular. On the palate it's full, smooth, fairly rich, with bright berry fruit supported by tart berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are smooth and fairly sweet, and flow into a fairly long tart finish. Mature, and if you like the style, which is fairly rustic on the nose, you will enjoy it. But you have to like the style, which is decidedly not modern.
2 stars

A Few Older Barolos

2006 Barolo

Cascina del Monastero Bricco Riund Barolo DOCG 2006

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with rosa canina and spice mingled with some minerality and dusky accents, and some berry fruit and wet leaves; it is clearly a little older but pleasant. On the palate it's ample and smooth, bright berry fruit supported by savory notes and tannins that are warm and rather salty, flow into a clean savory finish with tart berry fruit underpinning, Powerful, the tannins are steelier than those of the 07's, with nice depth: a good food wine that will work well with a hearty stew, and also age well.
2 stars

Gagliasso Barolo Riserva DOCG 2005

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, cedar laced, and fairly bright, with some mint, leather and leaf tobacco. Nice depth. On the palate it's quite pleasant, with ripe cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by deft sour berry fruit acidity with raspberry accents. Nice depth and elegance.
2 stars

Oddero Poderi e Cantine Vigna Rionda Barolo 2005 DOCG

Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is bright and mentholated, with some minerality and bright berry fruit acidity. On the palate it's bright, with lively berry fruit supported by oak bark-laced acidity and by tannins that are fresh and quite dry, and flow into a warm fresh berry fruit finish. Pleasant, and will drink quite well with foods, the tannins are dry and aggressive, and if you like the style you will enjoy it considerably.
2 stars

Oddero Poderi e Cantine Collaretto Langhe Bianco DOC 2009

Pale brassy yellow with brassy greenish reflections. The bouquet is bright, and vegetal, with nice acidity, slight minerality, greenish notes, heather, and bramble On the palate it's smooth, rather languid, with white fruit supported by languid citric acidity, flowing into some heather and mint in the finish. Pleasant in a fairly direct key
1 star

Oddero Poderi e Cantine Cascina Fiori Moscato D'Asti DOC 2010

Pale brassy white with fine perlage. Rich sweet nose, with peaches, honey, honeydew melon -- it's almost chewy in its sweetness -- and apricots, a cornucopia On the palate it's full, and sweet, with pleasant honeydew melon supported by moderate citric acidity -- enough to keep it alive -- and sweetness, while the sparkle provides depth and elegance. Quite pleasant in a rather honey laced key.
2 stars

IGP Tastings: 2007 Barolo From Barolo, Monforte and Castiglione Falletto

The third day of the Giovani Promettenti's tastings at Wellcom's offices in Alba opened with wines from the town of Barolo (from whence the wine Barolo draws its name), followed by those of Castiglione Falletto and Monforte.

To begin with Barolo, we much enjoyed the elegance and roundness of the tannins and the readiness of some of the wines, though Alcohol continues to be a distinctive marker for the vintage, and in some of the wines is over the top.

Castiglione Falletto's wines showed the best, thanks to elegance that doesn't (as all too often happens) come at the expense of power, and also to considerable freshness that always plays a part in making wines ready to drink from the outset.

With Monforte, we had quibbles that we hope will fade with time. At present the 2007 Monforte wines seem to be mostly about immediate impact, with little thought for the future, though we are certain that this impression will fade as they develop.

Immediately after the tasting (and before unmasking the bottles, which we tasted blind) we talked about the wines and selected the 12 (out of 66) that impressed us all, publishing the list immediately. Here you will find the tasting notes for all the wines we tasted, in the order they were poured.

Wines from the Comune of Barolo

Abbona Marziano Terlo Ravera Barolo DOCG

Deep cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is vinous, with some berry fruit and moderate spice, supported by bramble, warmth, alcohol, some cedar, and nose tingling acidity. Quite young. On the palate it's full, with the directness of youth, displaying fairly bright berry fruit supported by cedary tannins and warmth, with moderate acidity that flows into a fairly long dry tannic finish with greenish cedar accents. It's very young, in a middle of the road key, with a fair amount of alcohol, and also oak that will fold in with time.
2 stars

Barone Riccardi Sarmassa Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some alcohol with slight berry fruit, slight cedar, and hints of tar, rosa canina and dried flowers as opens. On the palate it's full, and rather languid, with ripe fruit supported by minerality; the tannins are smooth, fairly soft, and moderately rich. A more delicate interpretation that favors finesse over power; it needs time.
2 stars

Borgogno F.lli S&B Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is brighter than some and fairly intense, with greenish cedar, leaf tobacco, some spice, and greenish leaf tobacco. It's young, and doesn't display much fruit. On the palate it's tannic, with warmth and cedar more than fruit, flowing into a cedary finish. I found it overly oaked.
1 star

Borgogno Francesco Vigna Brunate Barolo DOCG 2007

Lively almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fresh, bright, and vegetal with some bell pepper and red berry fruit mingled with dusky graphite shaving bitterness and spice. Nice complexity in a youthful key. On the palate it's bright, with lively acidity and tart berry fruit supported by tannins that are warm, and have a youthful burr, flowing into a warm tart finish. Lots of acidity, and the wine will be long lived in a brash key. If you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Brezza Bricco Sarmassa Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some berry fruit, some greenish accents, spice, rhubarb, floral acents, and slight laundry soap. On the palate it's medium bodied and more mineral than acidic, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by minerality and dry splintery tannins that flow into a mineral tannic finish. The fruit falls out in mid stride, and I found myself wishing there were more. It may do interesting things in the future, because the interaction between tannin and minerality is interesting.
1 star

Brezza Sarmassa Barolo DOCG 2007

An IGP Selection
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with floral accents and berry fruit mingled with graphite shaving bitterness, some dark chocolate, spice, alcohol, leaf tobacco, and all supporting tart acidity and moderate berry fruit On the palate it's fairly rich, bright berry fruit supported by smooth tannins and fairly tart berry fruit acidity, the tannins have slight burr and underlying mineral warmth, and flow into a clean bright slightly tannic finish with lasting fruit. Pleasant in a fairly traditional key.
2 stars

Brezza Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2007

An IGP Selection Deep black almandine with black reflections almandine rim. The bouquet has berry fruit supported by cedar, some prune, greenish vegetal accents, some spice, and alcohol; it's brooding, in an airy sort of way, and also in mid stride. On the palate it's bright, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by mineral acidity and by dry slightly splintery tannins that lead into a long mineral finish with dry tannic underpinning moderate fruit, and considerable warmth. It's pleasant in a scrappy mineral key, and will be long lived, becoming ethereal. If you like the style you will enjoy it very much.
2 stars

Ceretto Bricco Rocche Brunate Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with cedar and some spice, warmth, some alcohol, not much fruit. Rather, greenish accents and heather with warmth, slight leather, and hints iodine. On the palate it's ample, with moderate plum cherry fruit supported by dry tannins and by brighter than expected mineral sour berry fruit acidity tart enough to bring to mind green grapes, flows into a long clean finish.
2 stars

Ceretto Zonchera Barolo DOCG 2007

An IGP Selection
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with balsam, mint, red berry fruit, some rhubarb, licorice root, slight brown sugar, and warmth. On the palate it's ample, smooth, and riper than some, with cherry plum fruit supported by moderately intense tannins that are smooth, and flow into a warm tannic finish supported by moderate acidity. I'd have liked a little more force to the tannins, but it does display pleasing grace and finesse.
2 stars

Comm. G. B. Burlotto Vigneti Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with floral accents and leaf tobacco mingled with sea salt and herbs that bring gravy to mind, warmth, some vegetal accents, and spice. On the palate it's full, with ripe cherry plum fruit supported by plum acidity and tannins that are smooth and moderately intense, flow into a warm plum cherry finish with deft tannic underpinning. Quite young, but promises well.
2 stars

Fenocchio Giacomo Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with cherry fruit that has some jammy accents spice, vegetal notes, some leather, and slight leaf tobacco. Graceful. On the palate it's quite (unexpectedly, even) dry, with moderate fruit supported by tongue drying tannins that flow into a cedary finish with moderate minerality. I found it overly dry on the palate. A pity, because the nose is pleasant.
1 star

Gagliardo Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and penetrating, with dusky greenish leather and some animal notes mingled with wood that is slightly musty, vegetal notes, and not much fruit. On the palate it's ripe, with greenish prune fruit supported by sweetness from alcohol and considerable cedar; it has a candied feel to it, a headache in the making, and flows into a cherry plum finish that's fairly sweet. Lots of quite ripe fruit with considerable oak, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. But you do have to like the style.
1 star

Marchesi di Barolo Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2007

An IGP Selection
Poured pyrope ink. The bouquet is powerful, with jammy prune fruit floral accents and spice; casting PC aside it's a busty starlet in a glass, juicy and luscious. On the palate it's ample, soft, sweet, with berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and tannins that are smooth and have a slight youthful cedary burr. Seductive in a ripe key and if you like the style you will much enjoy it.
2 stars

Marchesi di Barolo Coste di Rose Barolo DOCG

An IGP Selection Deep pyrope with black cherry rim. The bouquet is ripe, with plum cherry fruit supported by sweetness, some acidity, slight greenish vegetal accents, heather, hints of leaf tobacco, and floral notes. A seductive starlet in a glass. On the palate it's ample and soft, with rich plum cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm berry fruit finish, where the tannins reveal a certain greenish dryness. Pleasant, in a rich ripe fruit key, but needs a year or two.
2 stars

Marchesi di Barolo Sarmassa Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep pyrope with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet has berry fruit and plum cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity, greenish vegetal accents, some spice, and some alcohol; it's quite swank. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by deft mineral acidity and by tannins that are warm and slightly savory, flow into a clean tannic finish Pleasant in a brash ripe key, and this is an odd combination, but it works.
2 stars

Poderi Einaudi Terlo Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet has cedar, spice, warmth, some berry fruit with deft underlying berry fruit acidity, and opens nicely. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. Pleasant in a bright middle of the road key.
2 stars

Poderi Einaudi Costa Grimaldi Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit, cherries, some greenish accents, spice, and some alcohol. On the palate it's fairly bright, lively cherry fruit supported by smooth berry fruit acidity and spice. Very tannic finish. It's middle of the road in style, and needs at least a couple of years.
2 stars

Poderi Einaudi Nei Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. Charged. The bouquet is fairly intense, with alcohol, cedar, moderate berry fruit, spice, and alcohol; despite its power there's not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with dusky berry fruit and plums supported by alcohol and greenish tannins, flows into a warm berry fruit finish with quite a bit of alcohol, dry slightly greenish tannins carry into a greenish tannic finish.
1 star

Terre da Vino Essenze Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly green, with cedar and some plum cherry fruit supported by warmth and spice; it's fairly direct and this is in part youth. On the palate it's ample, with rich plum cherry fruit supported by crushed cherry acidity and tannins that are warm and smooth, flow into a clean savory finish. Pleasant, in a fairly direct key, and has a pleasing brashness to it, tomboyish in a ripe key, which is a trick to do but works here. The Italian word that comes to mind is ruffiano, which translates as ingratiating in the way scamps can be.
2 stars

Terre da Vino Paesi Tuoi Barolo DOCG 2007

Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, floral, and quite fresh for a Barolo, with spice, some greenish vegetal accents, plum prune fruit, some cedar, slight graphite shavings, and alcohol. On the palate it's ample and fairly sweet, with cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and smooth sweet tannins that have a greenish burr, and flow into a clean plum berry fruit finish. A pleasantly savory wine with nice depth. It's very young, needs a year or two.
2 stars

Vajra G. D. Bricco Viole Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and vegetal, with prunes, some pepper, slight alcoholic sweetness, and spice; there's nice balance in a ripe but not overripe key, On the palate it's rich, with dusky cherry prune fruit supported by prune acidity and warmth; the tannins are warm and fairly sweet, with a slight burr, and flow into a prune plum finish with a greenish vegetal tannic underpinning. Pleasant in a brash key, with acidity that does a nice job of supporting quite ripe fruit. Expect it to also be long lived.
2 stars

Vajra G. D. Albe Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is complex, with alcohol, leaf tobacco, camphor, some vegetal notes, berry fruit, slight petroleum, and spice; a fellow taster finds truffles instead of petroleum, and another lathered horse. Differing associations. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense plum cherry fruit that's fairly sweet supported by smoky tannic accents and acidity that flow into a moderately dry tannic finish. I found it a bit dry, though this is also a factor of youth.
2 stars

Virna di Borgogno Cannubi Boschis Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine -- poured ink -- with almandine rim. The bouquet is oaky, with dusky cedar and greenish accents, alcohol, spice, and some prune fruit; it's penetrating, savory, and I would have liked more fruit. On the palate it's fairly rich, and ready, with plum cherry fruit supported by dusky cedar from the tannins that colors the fruit, and there is also cocoa in the finish A heavily oaked wine, young and ripe, and if you like the style you will enjoy it, but I found oak and chocolate from oak to impinge.
1 star

Virna di Borgogno Preda Sarmassa Barolo DOCG 2007

An IGP Selection
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with violets, berry fruit some spice, and greenish accents, and is pleasant though coming together. On the palate it's full, and rich, with bright berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and tannins that are a touch dry, and this is a factor of youth; they flow into a fairly long cherry finish with deft tannic underpinning. Graceful, and will also age nicely for a decade at least. Give it at least 2 years before opening it.
2 stars

Wines from the Commune of Castiglione Falletto

Fenocchio Giacomo Villero Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet has cherry fruit with some berry fruit, spice, greenish accents, acidity, and some candied fruit - jammy accents. On the palate it's pleasant, with ripe cherry fruit supported by deft acidity and tannins that are smooth and fairly rich, flow into a fairly long clean tannic finish.
2 stars

Boroli Villero Barolo DOCG 2007

Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and quite oaky, with cedar, some berry fruit, and greenish accents; though the fruit does emerge oak predominates. On the palate it's fairly bright, with cherry fruit apparent in the attack, but then overshadowed by cedary oaky tannins that cover all, blanketing it in warmth. Oak in a glass.
1 star

Boroli Barolo DOCG 2007

Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim tending to orange. The bouquet is moderately intense, with berry fruit tartness and some vegetal accents, greenish notes, hints Marsiglia laundry soap, and spice. On the palate it's ample and fairly direct, with sour berry fruit supported by tannins that flow into a dry tannic finish; I found it overly tannic on palate and tongue drying. This in a tasting situation. There is nice acidity however, and it will work better with foods -- rich roasts and stews, in particular -- than some of the other wines we tasted, and may do interesting things with time
2 stars

Bricco Boschis Cavallotto Bricco Boschis Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and greenish, with spice and peppery accents, black pepper, moderate berry fruit, and slight rubber; it's penetrating and slightly musty. On the palate it's fairly bright, with cherry fruit supported by tannins that are slight dry, and moderate berry fruit acidity, and flow into a fairly bright tannic finish with nice acidity. Needs time,
2 stars

Ceretto Bricco Rocche Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and dusky, with animal notes, some leather, hardwood ash, considerable alcohol, and greenish notes with some burnt cork. On the palate it's ample and quite ripe, with smooth plum fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh fairly tart finish.
2 stars

Fontana Livia Barolo DOCG 2007

An IGP Selection
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and aromatic, with petroleum, intense berry fruit, greenish vegetal accents, leather, spice, licorice root, rhubarb, and considerable alcohol. On the palate it's ample with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are smooth and slightly greenish, with petroleum accents. Modern in style, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. But give it time.
2 stars

Fontana Livia Villero Barolo DOCG 2007

An IGP Selection Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with greenish leaf tobacco, spice, cedar, some berry fruit and quite a bit of alcohol with underlying hardwood ash. Pleasant. On the palate it's full, with rich berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and moderate acidity, flows into a clean slightly greenish tannic finish. Pleasant, though the tannins aren't quite as powerful as they might be. It compensates for this with elegance and richness. A touch too ready say, the others at the moment of tasting, but I found myself enjoying it and we did select it.
2 stars

Oddero Poderi e Cantine Villero Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with alcohol, dusky notes, plum fruit, nose tingling acidity, oak, peppery black pepper spice, some vegetal accents, and plum cherry fruit. On the palate it's ample with moderately rich plum fruit supported by minerality more than acidity, and by tannins that are blocky and cedar laced, flowing into a cedary finish. There as nice fruit but oak is overshadowing it; it may emerge with time and I would wait a couple of years on it, as it may do interesting things.
1 star

Sobrero Francesco Ciabot Tanasio Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine. The bouquet is animal with smoky accents, and frankly rustic, with wet stable straw as it opens. On the palate it's fairly bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are smooth, and flow into a warm berry fruit finish in which some of the rustic elements of the nose emerge. It's particular, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. But you have to like rustic wines.
2 stars

Sordo Giovanni Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and some vegetal notes, slight berry fruit jam and spice. Nice depth. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright berry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are smooth and fairly sweet. Though I liked the nose, I found the palate somewhat lacking in verve.
2 stars

Sordo Giovanni Rocche di Castiglione Barolo DOCG 2007

An IGP Selection
Lively almandine ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, with lively berry fruit supported by raspberries and floral accents, some vegetal notes, and nice acidity; there's nice balance and depth. On the palate it's bright, with fresh lively cherry raspberry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and raspberry acidity that flow into a warm sour berry fruit acidity. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well with roasts or stews.
2 stars

Sordo Giovanni Parussi Barolo DOCG 2007

An IGP Selection Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents, fairly rich berry fruit, and some spice; it displays nice depth and complexity. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry raspberry fruit supported by smooth sweet berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are deft and smooth, with a slight burr, flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. Enjoyable.
2 stars

Terre del Barolo Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is dusky, with cedar that's not completely clean, and greenish accents, but not much fruit. The palate reflects the nose, with greenish cedar-laced berry fruit supported by cedary tannins that flow into a fairly green finish.
1 star

Wines from the Commune of Monforte d'Alba

Abbona Marziano Pressenda Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections - poured ink. The bouquet is powerful and frankly oaky, with considerable cedar that overshadows moderate berry fruit, and some goudron. A lot of oak, which conditions the wine. On the palate it's powerful, with peppery tannins and cherry fruit that's more intense supported by moderate acidity and peppery tannins that flow into a peppery finish. Quite aggressive in an oaky key; it needs time.
1 star

Amalia Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with quite a bit of youthful oak mingled with spice, and a fair amount of alcohol, and underlying fruit. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are bright and fairly dry, with spicy peppery accents, and flows into a fairly long sour berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. It has considerable potential but needs a couple of years to get its bearings. A wine to wait for.
2 stars

Ascheri Pisapola Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep pyrope with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is spicy, with greenish accents, some berry fruit, bell peppers, some licorice root, and dusky shade. On the palate it's fairly rich, with moderately intense cherry fruit overshadowed by bitter cedar laced tannins and some mineral acidity; the finish is decidedly tannic with languid berry fruit supported more by minerality than acidity, while the tannins overshadow all. It's frankly unready.


Batasiolo Bofani Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some berry fruit supported by dusky notes, cedar, some wet leather, alcohol, and some spice. On the palate it's bright, with decidedly tannic fruit supported by aggressive peppery tannins, fruit is cherry, but the peppery spice of the tannins overshadows it all, and it flows into a peppery tannic finish. It's frankly underage, and needs time to come together.
1 star

Bolmida Silvano Bussia Barolo DOCG 2007

An IGP Selection Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich and fresh, with violets and berry fruit supported by some greenish accents, acidity, and spice. On the palate it's fresh, with violet-laced plum cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a splintery burr of youth, and flow into a clean bright finish, while the acidity is pleasant and rather cheeky. Quite pleasant, in a tomboyish key.
2 stars

Bolmida Silvano Vigne dei Fantini Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is funky and penetrating, with smoke and a certain mustiness; as it opens some floral accents emerge however. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity, with smooth, glancing tannins and some violets in the finish. Fairly direct and up front.
1 star

Cascina Ballarin Bussia Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and jammy, with some berry fruit and berry fruit jam, plum-prune-grape, also some greenish vegetal accents. On the palate it's quite ripe, with plum cherry fruit supported by fairly sweet tannins and minerality more than acidity, though what comes though is the sweetness, and flow s into a fairly long finish. Lots of very ripe fruit, with sweetness derived in part from alcohol, and it's a wine that you will like if you like the style.
2 stars

Cascina Chicco Rocche Castelletto Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is smoky and savory, with some spice but not much fruit; it gives an impression of being in a holding pattern. On the palate it's pleasant, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. I'd have liked a little more acidity, but it does have pleasing fruit freshness and richness.
2 stars

Conterno Franco C. Sciulin Bussia Munie Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine -- poured ink -- with almandine rim. The bouquet has cherry fruit supported by cedar and greenish accents, spice, and some smoky notes too. On the palate it's ample and soft, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate slightly milky acidity and by tannins that are smooth and sweet; it's pleasing in a ripe but not overripe international key.
2 stars

Conterno Franco C. Sciulin Pugnane Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit supported by spicy jammy notes; more than one fellow taster finds toffees, and it is sweet in any case, and ripe. On the palate it's ripe, with cherry plum fruit supported by nice berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are rather dry, and flow into a clean bright tannic finish. Quite international with pleasant richness of fruit, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Conterno Paolo Riva del Bric Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some smoke, berry fruit, penetrating spice, and some acidity. On the palate it's ripe, with cherry plum fruit supported by dry tannins that display considerable oak and flow into a tannic finish. Oaky.
1 star

Conterno Paolo Ginestra Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with alcohol, tannic accents, ripe berry fruit, some prunes, some spice, and cedar. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry prune fruit that draws up quickly, finishing with tannins that are dry and cut the fruit off, and a fair amount of alcohol; there is some mineral acidity too, but it really just comes up short.
1 star

Costa di Bussia Campo dei Buoi Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with plum cherry fruit supported by some greenish accents, cedar, and slight graphite shavings. On the palate it's fill and ripe, with rich plum cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a rather green fairly long cedar laced finish. It's tending towards a riper style, and is pleasant, but you have to like the style.
2 stars

Fenocchio Giacomo Bussia Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and some violet highlights. The bouquet is fresh, in a candied way, with toffees called "caramella mou" in Italian, sweetness, some berry fruit and berry fruit jam, and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's ample, soft, and smooth, with fairly intense cherry plum fruit supported by violets; the tannins are smooth and slightly splintery, and flow into a clean finish with slight graphite shaving bitterness.
2 stars

Giacosa F.lli Vigna Mandorlo Barolo DOCG

Deep black almandine with black reflections and violet rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish plum accents and some spice; considerable ripeness in a charged key. On the palate it's full, and ripe, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by tannins that have greenish accents and flow into a fairly long slightly greenish ripe plum cherry finish
2 stars

Giacosa F.lli Bussia Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is oaky, with a great load of cedar and some berry fruit that tries to emerge, but with little success; a fellow taster mutters about old pecorino cheese on the nose, and when he says it I realize he's right. On the palate it's moderately fruity with cherry plum fruit supported by mineral acidity and glancing tannins.
1 star

Grasso Elio Gavarini Chinerea Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is decidedly greenish with considerable lactic acid and spice; it's up in the air and not happy at being there. On the palate it's ample, with ripe berry fruit mingled with plum cherry fruit, and supported by tannins that are cedar laced and splintery, flowing into a dusky finish with greenish tannic accents. It's unready, and the nose in particular isn't working for me at this time.

Grasso Elio Ginestra Casa Matè Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is jammy, with plum-cherry fruit supported by greenish accents and some spice. Casting PC aside it's like a stacked starlet in a glass, voluptuous but also green. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by tannins that have some scalded milk to them, and also mint, and are that are splintery (youth, and oak), while there isn't that much in the way of acidity, and it flows into a tannic finish with some plum fruit. I'd have liked somewhat defter acidity, though in its defense it is very, very young.
1 star

Parusso Armando Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections - poured ink. The bouquet is powerful, and quite aromatic, with floral richness that brings Ruché to mind; there's sweetness, rhubarb and licorice root too, and as it opens some underlying tart accents. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by ample smooth tannins and moderate acidity that flow into a clean slightly mineral minty plum finish that's fairly long, and settles into graphite shavings bitterness. It's particular, and not what I think of as Barolo, but does have a certain grace in a very ripe key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Parusso Armando Mariondino Barolo DOCG 2007

An IGP Selection
Deep pyrope ink with almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish vegetal notes and berry fruit -- plum-cherry -- supported by some acidity; it's ripe but has acidity that gives direction, and also some quinine and spice and slight balsamic accents. On the palate it's full, with rich plum cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and mineral acidity, and flows into a clean fairly mineral finish, with some floral notes -- violets -- and that emerge. Pleasant in a powerful very ripe key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Parusso Armando Le Coste Mosconi Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and cedar laced, with some rhubarb according to the other tasters, whereas I find cedar and cedar chest. An oaky marvel. On the palate it's ripe, with plum cherry fruit supported by cedary tannins that have greenish accents nicely integrated with fruit. The overall package is quite successful, simply a lot of oak and very ripe fruit. It would however be an anathema for traditional minded.
2 stars

Parusso Armando Bussia Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim with hints of purple. The bouquet is fairly rich, with plum fruit supported by cedar and greenish accents -- a lot of oak well balanced by rich ripe fruit. On the palate it's ample, rather tannic, with less fruit than the nose suggested and more dry oaky tannins, which flow into a very tannic splintery oaky finish. It's like licking a barrel slat.
1 star

Poderi Colla Dardi le Rosse Bussia Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black cherry ruby with black cherry reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents and spice and underlying some prune fruit. On the palate it's ripe, and rich with fairly intense plum fruit at the outset, though the fruit then flags, giving way to dry tannins that carry into a dry tannic finish. I'd have liked greater richness of fruit to support the tannic accents.
1 star

Prunotto Bussia Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with ripe cherry plum fruit supported by greenish tannic accents, some acidity, and pleasant spice. On the palate it's bright and fresh, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by lively plum acidity and by tannins that are smooth and full, and flow into a bright plum cherry finish. Nice depth and elegance, and pleasant in the context of the style, which is fairly modern.
2 stars

Saffirio Josetta Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black cherry with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar laced tart berry fruit supported by some greenish spice and some smoky accents. On the palate it's ample and soft with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by tannins that are rather dry and flow into a dry tannic finish.
1 star

Saffirio Josetta Persiera Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep pyrope ink with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish jammy accents, leaf tobacco, some spice, and quite a bit of alcohol; the effect is rather haunting. On the palate it's fairly rich, with spicy berry fruit supported by cherry notes and acidity, while the tannins warm and cedar laced. Quite ripe.
1 star

Saffirio Josetta Francesco 1948 Barolo DOCG 2007

Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with sweetness mingled with some penetrating acidity and cedar, and also with very ripe plum berry fruit and a lot of oak. On the palate it's ample, with rich plum fruit supported by plum laced tannins and moderate acidity that flow into a plum finish. Pleasant enough in a ripe charged key.
2 stars

Simone Scaletta Chiriet Barolo DOCG 2007

Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with floral accents and some red berry fruit supported by some vegetal notes and slight cedar; with respect to many Monforte wines it is considerably less ripe, and more towards berry fruit than plum, though there is some underlying sweetness. On the palate it's full, and fairly sweet, with cherry plum fruit supported by languid tannins and moderate acidity that flow into a warm slightly cedary finish with soft cherry accents.
2 stars

Garantito Igp - Barolo Vigna La Rosa Vertical: 2007-2004-1999-1996-1982 and 1967

This time Luciano takes the stand:



It's not often that one can combine the technical requirements of a tasting with drinking pleasure. Quite the contrary, it's ever rarer due to conflicting appointments, the press of time, and the anxieties of wanting to know. But it does occasionally happen. For example, if we find ourselves in a historic estate, Fontanafredda in Serralunga, enjoying a pleasant evening seated around a table with a dear friend, Monica Tavella, a dynamic winemaker such as Danilo Drocco, and a few Promising Youths, for example Carlo Macchi, Kyle Phillips, and Pasquale Porcelli.

There we were, after tasting the latest Mirafiore wines in Oscar Farinetti's avant-garde tasting room, in the dining room of the villa, enjoying a classic Piemontese meal: a cold chopped antipasto, a hot antipasto, agnoletti al plin with the sauce from a roast, meat, and dessert. And during the hours we enjoyed, we chatted of this and that, of icy harvests, of plans for the future, and as we sipped an unexpected Barolo vertical developed, leaving us with no choice but to accept Barolo's immortality.

You understand: We're at Fontanafredda, our base for the IGP in Langa Tastings. A hundred hectares of vineyards, planted in 1878 by King Vittorio Emanuele for his Bella Rosin, then property of the Monte dei Paschi Bank for 72 years, and since 2008 one of Oscar Farinetti's jewels.

We never tire of repeating it, This Is How Great Wines Should Be Tasted: Giving to them at least some of the time they gave us by enjoying them, with food, and if possible while talking with those who know them. It's a humanist tasting, one in which the notes taken, while indispensable, are only the key with which to gain access to the spirit in the glass, and, more importantly, to the spirit of the land and those who lived on it.

I always make this comparison: the aristocracies of Piemonte, Tuscany and the Veneto maintained solid ties to the land, investing and promoting innovations, whereas the Neapolitan aristocracy consumed their estates in the construction of palaces designed to rival those of the King. One of the reasons for the Neapolitan's defeat and ultimate collapse may be this differing approach to agriculture. Cavour and Ricasoli thought about wine, while Nicotera made pacts with the Mob to govern Naples after the fall of the Bourbons.

And this echoes down the paths of history, weighing upon the blameless generations that followed. More than to be or to have, the anthropological and psychological dichotomy is that which sets production and consumption in opposition.

2007 - We begin with a vintage I detest, because it brings me back to the concentrated fruity style of the 90s, which continues to do great damage in regions such as Calabria, Sicily and Puglia. It's not a deft vintage, even when a winemaker as good as Danilo does his best to maintain elegance, and succeeds in preserving freshness. The wine is perfect, and almost ready. Now, and that's the rub.

2004 - We step back three years; Monte Dei Paschi was still on the scene, though Danilo's hand was already on the wines. Our negative Kantian prejudice flips to positive when 4 replaces 7. A vintage that's always great and climbing, no matter the wine: From Barolo to Taurasi, passing through Gaglioppo, Amarone and Brunello. Intense, fresh, ample, dynamic, I'd almost say it's my favorite.

1999 - The vintage we all agree on: winemakers, enologists, wine lovers: a fullness of expression that began in the vineyard and ends in the glass. I won't talk to you about the wine's integrity after 12 years, because with Barolo it's what one expects. The nose still has considerable fruit and a nice spicy cast, while the attack on the palate is unhesitating, and perfectly balanced, with all the components at a very high level; the freshness is no longer distinct, but very long, and sustains it all. A long, intense, persistent finish that sends ripe cherry fruit up to the nose.

1996 - Here the audience is divides. Neither Carlo nor Pasquale find it exciting, whereas Kyle and I like it. Its strongpoint is certainly its acidity, which takes power in a leaner context, but the wine is on its toes and dynamic, without the least sign of failure; it opens with authority and closes cleanly. With respect to the 1999 and the 2004 it lacks complexity, and is thus considerably less seductive.

1982 - We're before the methanol scandal. A vintage justly considered great, and the quality of the wine emerges clearly. I mention integrity because I must, but know that in doing so I'll pass for a schoolboy: the nose is dominated by mature aromas, leather, ash, wood toast, but also wild and brandied cherries, hints of licorice, very pleasant rhubarb. Excellent acidity that is slightly separate from the wine, finesse, and delightful drinkability for and exciting, satisfying wine.

1967 - At this point Danilo, caught up in the moment, said the unexpected: "I want to taste the 1967 with you." Good, think I; when I was 10 I didn't drink, so here's an opportunity to make up for lost time. An excellent vintage according to the official Barolo vintage classification, and called "Convincing" by Giancarlo Montaldo in his summary la Langhian history for those drinking today. The wine is indeed perfectly fresh, no slippage after 44 years, nor sediments; the color is brilliant and lively, perhaps a little deeper than usual. The mature nose displays flashes of fruit; it's supported by alcohol, close to 14%, and by vibrant acidity. A drinkable Barolo, worlds apart from the styles in vogue in the 90s, and precisely because of this it displays an irresistible allure.

http://www.fontanafredda.it

Published Simultaneously by IGP, I Giovani Promettenti.

We Are:
Carlo Macchi
Kyle Phillips
Luciano Pignataro
Roberto Giuliani
Stefano Tesi

Tasted at Dogliani: Cantina Clavesana

One of the high points (for me) of the IGP trip to Piemonte was our tour the Cantina Clavesana took us on of the Clavesana area between Dogliani and the Barolo appellation, and Luciano has written eloquently of the beauty and authenticity of the land and the wines.

This spring Nebbiolo Prima ended with an afternoon dedicated to Dolcetto; enough people signed up that there were two busses. I ended up on the one that began with Diano and then went to Dogliani, and ended up staying longer in Diano to taste everything, and then hitching a ride with another slow-tasting journalist to Dogliani. We arrived late enough that rather than taste through the wineries decided to sip and talk.

I did taste Clavesna, however, because though I did meet Anna Bracco, Clavesana's Director, at Vinitaly, I didn't have time to taste the wines then. So I grabbed the opportunity to taste them in Dogliani. I'm glad I did.

Cantina Clavesana Dolcetto di Dogliani 2010

This is the Cantina's primary wine, 1.5 million bottles and half of their total production. Violet with pale rim. The bouquet is moderately intense with berry fruit and violets supported by spice, some warmth, and underlying bitter almonds. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by bitter berry fruit acidity and some greenish accents, with fairly light tannins that flow into a pleasant slightly greenish finish with a rather bitter burr. It's a classic food wine of the kind that you have to set two bottles of out, because one will simply vanish. The perfect day-to-day wine.
2 stars

Cantina Clavesana Il Clu di Clavesana Dogliani DOCG 2008
This wine is made from grapes gathered from 20 of their associates; it spent 6 months in large oak and several months thereafter in bottle. Total production is 150,000 bottles. Deep violet ruby with ruby rim. The bouquet is moderately rich, with berry fruit and spice supported by vegetal accents and some savory notes, while the palate is fairly rich, with sour berry fruit supported by deft acidity and tannins that have a warm peppery burr and flow into a warm sour berry fruit finish. It's quite approachable and more similar to a Dolcetto than to many Dogliani wines in that while there is concentration and power it doesn't go to extremes; it's quite approachable, and versatile, and will go quickly.
2 stars

Cantina Clavesana 110 Dogliani alla Giornata Dogliani DOCG 2008 This is made from a specific associate's vineyard, and a Giornata is a measure of land, what a man and a team of oxen can work in a day -- about a third of a hectare. Lively ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit laced with some greenish accents, cedar and slight leaf tobacco, and lively berry fruit acidity with some spice, and also some graphite shaving bitterness. On the palate it's fresh and fairly rich, with lively berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a warm dusky burr and are also supported by bright sour berry fruit acidity, flowing into a tart berry fruit finish. Nice depth and versatility; it's quite pleasant to drink and will work well with a variety of red meats, ranging from simple grilled meats through light stews. You will want more than a bottle, and it's the sort you may find yourself reaching for often.
2 stars