An Older Wine: Villa Petriolo Golpaja Toscana IGT 2001

Lot 0302

This is a Sangiovese in purezza aged in small wood, and is Villa Petriolo's flagship wine; in presenting it they say it combines an attachment to the land with a modern approach in the cellar, and I would say I agree.

The 2001 Golpaja Toscana IGT, which was released a few years ago and is by now entering maturity, is deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim, and has a fairly intense bouquet with red berry fruit supported by tart brambly acidity and some animal hair - wet horse - with hints of green leather too. Nice balance and quite rich. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards full, with rich sour berry fruit supported by bright brambly acidity and hints of underbrush, and by smooth slightly greenish brambly tannins that flow into a long clean brambly finish with bright prune fruit and savory tannic underpinning. Quite nice, in a graceful scrappy key, and still quite young - it has at least another 5-8 years ahead of it. In terms of accompaniments, if you like this style, you might even be tempted to sip it far from the table. But it will go best with foods, in particular succulent, flavorful grilled meats. Elisabetta's aunt Adriana was serving steak and rosticciana (spare ribs well salted and peppered, and grilled over a gentle flame), and the pairing was just about perfect.
90-92

A Note: I have been asked where to find these older wines. Unfortunately, unless one happens to have a bottle in the cellar one's options are limited (even in Italy): barring a visit to the winery, one can visit a well-stocked wine shop that also has older wines and the facilities to keep them properly -- ideally, a refrigerated room -- or a restaurant with a good wine cellar. Neither suggestion is ideal, I know, but I think it's important to discuss wines after they've been released, and see how they are doing.

Campriano: This Year's Wines from Ranuccio Neri

I have long liked Ranuccio Neri's wines, and was therefore rather distressed when he told me a few years ago that he was no longer making a white -- the people overseeing the production of Bianco Val D'Arbia, his appellation, had decided it required "sprucing up," and decreed that Chardonnay be added to it. Since he didn't have any and had no intention of planting any, he wasn't going to make it any more.

So this year I was delighted to discover that he has changed his mind, and is once again making his white. As he always has, from Trebbiano Toscano, and since the Bianco Val D'Arbia appellation still requires Chardonnay he doesn't have, he is labeling it as an IGT. I began with it:

Campriano Bianco IGT Toscana 2007
Lot 6008
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections. Pleasant bouquet with floral accents and heather mingled with white berry fruit and some spice form the grapes. Quite fresh and gives a good idea of what Trebbiano is capable of when well grown. On the palate it's medium bodied and deft, with clean mineral laced citric fruit that flows into a clean citric finish with underlying minerality, and though the term minerality is often overused, it's apt here. A very pleasant wine, which will drink well as an aperitif or with hearty vegetable or legume based soups, and also with simple meat or fish dishes, or with a slice of Tuscan pecorino cheese. Expect the bottle to go quickly.
2 stars

Campriano Rosato Toscana IGT 2007
Lot 6008
This is a blend of Sangiovese and Canaiolo Nero, and is pale salmon pink with brilliant highlights. The bouquet is bright, with heather and red berry fruit supported by clean raspberry acidity and some crushed sage herbal notes. Quite inviting. On the palate it's deft, with bright slightly greenish red berry fruit supported by raspberry acidity and smooth light tannins that flow into a warm tart finish. It's a bit of a lark, one of those wines that will finish before you expect it to. Ideal for a cookout or picnic, or indoors too, for example with quickly grilled meats or even pizza.
2 stars

Campriano Chianti Colli Senesi 2006
Lot 16406
Lively cherry ruby with cherry rim. Fresh bouquet with lively red berry fruit supported by clean slightly leafy underbrush. Deft, inviting, and pleasant in a traditional key, displaying considerable finesse. On the palate it's clean, with slightly brambly red berry fruit supported by warmth and brambly tannins with some vegetal accents that flow into a clean bright finish. It's a bit young -- a year would add grace -- but will drink quite well with grilled meats or light stews, and I'd be tempted to serve it with a platter of mixed fried meats and vegetables too. It's one of those wines you will set out, turn your back, and find empty when you turn around again.
88-90

Campriano Vinsanto del Chianti 2001
Tawny amber; the color is dark because Ranuccio also slipped some Caniolo into it. Fairly rich bouquet with dark brown sugar laced with walnut skins, dried fruit, and some walnut butter acidity. Inviting. On the palate it's full, and quite sweet, with elegant brown sugar sweetness supported by warmth and clean apricot acidity that flows into a long warm finish with brown sugar and dried apricot overtones. Quite nice, and if you're a fan of sweet wines (and I am9 you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Want to know more about Campriano? Check out Ranuccio's Site

The Latest From Brunello: It's Even Worse Than We Thought...

I haven't said much about the Brunello scandal of late, mostly because to write well about it one must be in Montalcino with one's ear to the ground. I am not.
However, Monty Waldin is, and his report, which Franco Ziliani has reposted, is frankly frightening. And very much worth reading (Scroll down past Franco's Italian to Jancis Robinson's introduction in English and Monty's report, also in English).

To add to this, another friend and colleague tells me that the Italian police have paid visits to all the major figures involved in the Brunello scandal -- cellar masters, agronomists, winery owners, consulting enologists and so on -- and examined the hard disks of their computers. Since many of these people, especially the consulting enologists, also work elsewhere, the scandal could very well spread to other appellations. The other thing my friend says is that the investigation no longer just regards winemaking. The inspectors are looking at land use, hiring, accounting practices, and everything else. It will take a while for the dust to settle, I fear.