A Montaribaldi Barbaresco Vertical (And More)

As a label, Motaribaldi is a relative newcomer to Barbaresco's wine pantheon. As producers, on the other hand, the Taliano Family has been around for quite some time, and before the "kids," Luciano and Roberto, decided to begin bottling in the mid-1990s the grapes from their 19 hectares of vineyards were eagerly sought out by the likes of Gaja, Prunotto, and others along those lines.

As is often the case with good wineries, it's best to let the wines, which I tasted following a tasting session at Alba Wines this spring, speak for themselves, with an occasional observation thrown in.

At the outset they fermented in cement:

Montaribaldi Barbaresco Sorì Montaribaldi 1995
This was their second vintage. Dusky almandine with orange in the rim. The bouquet is rich, with elegant red berry fruit supported by clean tart accents and some greenish overlay, also green leather and the beginnings of leaf tobacco with pleasant spice and acidity as well. Still quite young, with considerable freshness. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful, bright cherry fruit supported by delicate berry fruit acidity, and by clean spice, while the tannins are quite smooth, approaching the fist of steel in a velvet glove that is the ideal definition of Nebbiolo. The finish is fairly long, and quite deft. Very nice, and vibrantly young, though there is an element of coarseness to it that is a reflection of the vintage. It will drink very well with succulent red meats, in particular grilled red meats or hearty stews, including game, and has a long life ahead of it
88

Montaribaldi Barbaresco Sorì Montaribaldi 1996
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rich green leather and hints of leaf tobacco mingled with spice and slight red berry fruit mingled with dried flowers and hints of underbrush. Great depth, and much to plumb. On the palate it's quite elegant, with rich red berry fruit supported by clean deft slightly mineral acidity and by tannins that are extremely smooth, and lead into a clean rich berry fruit finish. Very nice, combining elegance, grace and finesse, and extremely pleasant to drink now, though if one were fortunate enough to have several bottles one could age most of them for many more years. It will drink well with foods, but is also a wine one could enjoy with like-minded friends.
93-4

In 1997 they introduced fermentation in steel, with temperature regulation:

Montaribaldi Barbaresco Sorì Montaribaldi 1997
Deep black almandine with dusky ruby reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with clean rich green leather supported by some pungent accents and by intriguing hints of hardwood ash and smoke that are likely the wood used, coupled with savory accents that add depth, and red berry fruit that helps bind it all together. It's quite muscular, and revolves more around power than finesse. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful red berry fruit supported by clean sweet berry fruit acidity and by rich, chewy tannins that flow into a clean deft berry fruit finish. It's quite elegant, in a muscular key, clearly revealing the power of the vintage, which makes it more approachable than the 96, though perhaps less interesting (for me) -- it's louder, but less refined, and this is a general characteristic of 97 with respect to 96.
90-91

Montaribaldi Barbaresco Sorì Montaribaldi 1998
In 1998 there were thunderstorms that soaked the vineyards before the harvest. Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim -- it's a little lighter than the 97. The bouquet is fairly rich, with green leather mingled with some leaf tobacco and slight sea salt mingled with dried prunes and carob; it's not as rich as the 97, and also a bit more mature - more than the 96 too - with considerable balance and elegance. On the palate it's ample and rich, with clean smooth cherry plum fruit supported by moderately intense, rather graceful berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly rich finish with some cocoa and carob overtones. Quite nice, but much closer to peaking than either the 97 or the 96.
88

Montaribaldi Barbaresco Sorì Montaribaldi 1999
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, in a fresher key -- it's much younger than the older wines -- with clean red berry fruit with some brandied berry fruit accents, supported by some green leather and slight citric acidity with pleasant spice that provides direction, and though it's quick to write it displays great harmony and is very pleasant to sniff. Inviting, even, it's like a well-chiseled athlete. On the palate it's ample and rich, with young red berry fruit that gains direction from bright slightly sour berry fruit acidity, and is supported by tannins that are smooth and sweet, but are still a bit young and display a burr that will fade with time. In other words, with time it will reach if not exceed the 1996, but it is several years behind it and simply needs time to reach its optimum expression. It's a wine one could drink now, and very much enjoy, but also hold for many years and enjoy considerably more than one would now.
90-91

Montaribaldi Barbaresco Sorì Montaribaldi 2000
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and clearly from a hotter vintage, with warmth and alcohol mingled with spice and hints of green leather, but less fruit than is present in the 1999, while there is instead more smoke, which is more from oak perhaps, and also a bit more spice. On the palate it's ample, but in a very different register, with the fruit much more balsamic and considerably less intense -- lean, even -- the acidity is also warmer and weaker, while the tannins are ample and very smooth in a warm, leaner, greener key than the 1999, and it all flows into a much warmer finish. It's clearly from a much warmer vintage than the 1999, and as a result displays less depth, and is simpler. It will also be shorter lived, though (by comparison with many 2000s that I have tasted) it does display considerable depth. But it is weaker than the 99, or the 96, and as a consequence is also more aggressive.
86-7

Montaribaldi Barbaresco Sorì Montaribaldi 2001
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim that's actually fairly far into orange. They say that 2001 didn't start out well, with cold weather and rain, which was fixed by the final weeks before the harvest that turned everything around. The bouquet is quite elegant, displaying great finesse with rich slightly greenish berry fruit supported by bright sour berry fruit acidity and by clean spice. Very pleasant to sniff, though also very young, and clearly has a long way to go. On the palate it's ample and bright, with rich red berry fruit with hints of brandied fruit supported by deft red currant acidity and by tannins that are smooth and sweet, and though it's not as charged as the 99; it's lithe and supple, like a dancer, and displays great elegance and poise. A delight to drink; a fellow taster says it's shorter, and he's right, but one can take a second sip.
91

Montaribaldi Barbaresco Sorì Montaribaldi 2002
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and a fair amount of almandine in the rim. The bouquet is greenish, with spice and some bell pepper greenness supported by peppery spice. It's obviously a cool weather vintage, and in some ways brings to mind the high mountain Nebbiolo of the Alta Piemonte. On the palate it's ample, and fairly rich, with clean bright berry fruit supported by moderate slightly greenish acidity, and by smooth slightly greenish tannins that flow into a clean slightly greenish finish. It's elegant, in an underripe cool weather key, and though one would not want to age it, it does display considerable grace and will drink well with foods over the next few years. Harmonious and balanced, within this context, and I found it growing upon me.
86-8

Montaribaldi Barbaresco Sorì Montaribaldi 2003
Fairly deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with overripe cherry and forest berry fruit supported by slight greenish accents, with not much in the way of acidity -- an overripe puppy. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with rich jammy berry fruit supported by clean soft acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean rather bitter finish. It's not out of whack, but obviously the child of a hot vintage that had a profound influence on what went into the bottle.
82-3

Montaribaldi Barbaresco Sorì Montaribaldi 2004
Lively black almandine with black reflections and some orange in the rim. The bouquet is lively, and quite young, with rich red berry fruit mingled with prunes, supported by clean balsamic acidity that's fresh but also rather aggressive -- a sign of youth -- and some animal tang. Promising, though frightfully young. On the palate it's full, with rich red berry fruit directed by deft berry fruit acidity that has hints of rhubarb to it, and supported by clean sweet tannins that still have a youthful peppery burr, and flow into a clean sweet tannic finish. It's very young, but promises to become quite elegant with time; it's one of those wines that one could drink now with succulent roasts or stews, but it will richly reward those with the patience to give it time. By comparison with some of the others it's a little more rustic now, but I think it has great potential for the future.
86-8 now, and it is climbing.

Montaribaldi Sorì Monteribaldi Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with a well balanced mixture of cedar and red berry fruit supported by some red berry fruit acidity and vegetal accents. Young, but promising. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright berry fruit supported by moderate red berry fruit acidity and bitter accents, while the tannins are clean and cedar laced, flowing into a decidedly bitter finish. It's young, and needs at least a year to get its bearings -- two would be better. By comparison with the 2004 its smoother and a bit less aggressive -- the 2004 is has more zing to it, and at present is brasher and more angular, With time, I think the 04 will develop more strongly than the 05 -- there's more to it. This said, a score for the 2005: 87

After tasting through Barbaresco, we moved on to their other wines:

Montaribaldi Righei Moscato D'Asti 2007
Pale brassy gold with white highlights and fine perlage. The bouquet is elegant, with clean honeysuckle mingled with honeydew melon and loquat, and a fair amount of sugar as well. Inviting. On the palate it's rich, with creamy honeydew melon fruit supported by clean sweetness that gains direction from loquat acidity, and is supported by sparkle that confers a delicately creamy mouthfeel that goes on at considerable length. I'd have liked, perhaps, a little more sparkle and acidity, but it is quite harmonious and my objection is a quibble, because I could easily down a bottle, especially accompanied by creamy cheeses.
2 stars

Montaribaldi Capurnal Roero Arneis 2007
Brassy gold with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is quite young -- it has been recently bottled -- with greenish accents mingled with grapefruit and herbal accents. On the palate it's bright, with lively grapefruit fruit supported by brisk acidity and by clean savory accents that flow into a clean slightly bitter finish. Pleasant, and will drink nicely with cheese or egg based antipasti, creamy risotti and similar, and also white meats, either fishy or fowl.
1 star

Montaribaldi Stissa D'Le Fàvole Langhe Chardonnay 2006
Brassy gold with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is bright, with clean citric acidity mingled with some petroleum and underlying minerality of the sort one smells when striking a block of granite, and bitter butterscotch. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich mineral acidity supported by clean mineral accents and some bitter tannins derived from the barrels in which some (about 40%) fermented, and it flows into a clean fairly bitter finish. It will drink well as an aperitif, with fairly rich antipasti, or with succulent fish -- fried, for example, or even fried meats and vegetables.
2 stars

Montaribaldi Nicolini Dolcetto D'Alba 2006
Lively purple ruby with brilliant ruby rim. The bouquet is bright, with lively violets mingled with savory accents and rich berry fruit, which gains definition from clean bitter almonds. Zesty, and quite inviting. On the palate it's rich, with lively bright red berry fruit supported by clean bitterness and by ample tannins that flow into a clean tannic finish that gains definition from underlying bitterness that continues at length. Quite nice, and will drink very well with all sorts of things, from hearty pasta dishes through fagioli all'uccelletto (Tuscan beans with sausages) and on up to simple grilled meats. Expect the bottle to go quickly. Worth seeking out
2 stars

Montaribaldi La Consolina Barbera d'Asti 2006
Lively ri with black reflections and ruby rim. The bouquet is bright, with lively berry fruit supported by considerable lemony grapefruit acidity, cut flowers - violets in particular - and some wet underbrush as well, which adds depth and complexity. Intriguing. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite bright, with lively red berry fruit -- a mix of cherries and raspberries -- supported by deft raspberry acidity and by moderately intense smooth tannins that flow into a fairly long warm tart finish. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well with a wide variety of foods ranging from pasta dishes through grilled meats and light stews. Worth seeking out.
88-90

Montaribaldi Dü Gir Barbera D'Alba 2006
This spent 16 months in wood, a mixture of old and new. Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and lively cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, with chocolaty notes mingled with brisk acidity and a fair amount of cedar, with underlying berry fruit. But the oak predominates, at least in this early post-bottling phase. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly irch berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that do have a vanilla component from wood, and by moderately intense acidity that flows into a clean slightly bitter berry fruit finish with underlying cedar. It's pleasant, and display excellent command of oak, but I found the Consolina more enjoyable. A judgment call, and personal preference, but I have to say what I think, and, this said, Dü Gir will drink well with roasts or stews.
2 stars

Tasting Through Ruffino

This fall Ruffino presented a new wine: Lodola Nuova Syrah, a Cortona DOC wine produced not far from where they make their Lodola Nuova Nobile di Montepulciano. The presentation was held at the Tenuta di Montemasso, a recently restored former convent on the highest ridge overlooking Florence from the Chianti Classico side, and even had I not been interested in wines I would have eagerly accepted the invitation to see the convent and admire the view.

But I am interested in wines, and Ruffino took advantage of the occasion to present the current vintages of a number of their other wines, some of which I was familiar with, and others -- especially those from a couple of extra-Tuscan estates -- that were new to me. It was a beautiful evening, watching the lights twinkle on over Florence as dusk fell, and enjoying a considerable variety of foods with the wines -- everything from cold cuts through chicken curry and steak with the reds, and grilled cuttlefish spiedini with the whites.


The wines, in the order I tasted them:

Tenuta Lodola Nuova Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2005
Lot 1L08149
Lively cherry ruby. The bouquet is bright and brambly, with sour red berry fruit and cherries laced with brambly acidity and some underbrush. Both lively and scrappy. On the palate it's bright and medium bodied with fairly rich slightly sour cherry fruit supported by clean bitter tannins with a deft burr that flow into a clean bitter finish. Pleasant in a bright key and will drink well with foods, ranging from minestra di pane (Tuscan bread kale and soup) through risotti, grilled meats, and light stews. Expect it to drink quickly.
2 stars

La Lodola Nuova Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2004
Lot L07347
Deep cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with cherry and red berry fruit -- There is some Merlot that presents as forest fruit -- supported by bramble, underbrush, and spice. Nice depth combined with considerable elegance. A head above the 05 and this is the vintage. On the palate it's full and smooth, with elegant berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slightly greenish cedary burr, and flow into a clean bitter finish. Brooding, and elegant in a fairly international key, and is a wine you'll like if you like a richer, fruit driven style.
2 stars

Tenute Sante Dame Chianti Classico 2006
Lot 08176
Lively cherry ruby with white rim. The bouquet is deft, with clean red berry fruit supported by smooth black currant fruit and slight hints of bramble. Welcoming in an international key. The palate reflects the nose, and the wine is medium bodied with bright rather languid cherry and forest berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight bitter cedar burr that flows into a clean bitter finish. Pleasant in an international key, and if you like rather softer fruit driven wines (as opposed to the more brambly acidic traditional style) you will much enjoy it. Because of its rich smoothness it will work better with drier cuts for example roast beef medium rare or turkey or pork loin, and it will also be nice with moderately spiced Oriental dishes.
2 stars

Tenute Sante Dame Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
Lot 07339
This is primarily Sangiovese, with some Colorino and Merlot, and is deep cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of cedar mingled with spice and underlying tart cherry fruit. The vintage is weaker than the 06, and wood steps in to a degree. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderate berry fruit supported by brambly acidity and tannins that contribute considerable cedary bitterness that carries into a long cedar-laced finish. By comparison with the 2006 Chianti Classico Base it feels thin and this is because the vintage was less good. In terms of accompaniments, because of the savory tannic bitterness that flows through it I'd be tempted to serve it with grilled meats.
1 star

Tenute Sante Dame Romitorio IGT Toscana Centrale 2004
Lot 07015
This is 60% Colorino and 40% Merlot, and is deep pigeon blood ruby with violet rim -- Colorino is used to impart color, and it does. The bouquet is intense, with red berry fruit laced with mint, some cedar, and hints of sandalwood, with underlying chopped beef and prunes, perhaps from a touch of overripeness. It does in any case have a fair amount to say in a fairly international key. On the palate it's ample, rich, and very smooth, with powerful forest berry fruit that gains direction from graphite shaving bitterness more than acidity, and is supported by ample very polished tannins that carry the fruit into a clean bitter finish. It's frankly voluptuous, like a sumptuous 50's starlet in a glass, and if you like the style you will like it very much. If you don't you won't like the wine, and there's no middle ground I can see. Because of its rich smoothness it will work well with flavorful non-fatty meats, e.g. a pot roast or medium rare roast beef sliced fairly thick.
2 stars

Ruffino Modus IGT Toscana 2005
Lot 07253
This is a 25-25-50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese; it's deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim, and has an intense bouquet with fairly marked vegetal accents - the Cabernet - supported by brambles and cedar. There's less fruit than one might expect from a richer vintage, but it's nicely balanced and they did a good job with what Nature offered. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fruit laced slightly bitter finish. I'd have liked and expected more acidity than there was; if you like smooth fruit driven wines you'll enjoy it with rich, not too fatty meat dishes. If you prefer a more traditional, more aggressive style it won't work as well for you.
1 star

Poggio Casciano Nero al Tondo Toscana IGT 2004
Lot 06156
This is a Pinot Noir, and is pale ruby with hints of almandine in the rim. The bouquet is bright, with fairly brambly acidity laced with menthol and sour cherry. Pleasant in a slightly muted key, and is a wine one can listen to. On the palate it's medium bodied with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by clean sour berry fruit acidity that gains a degree of languor from slight sweetness and is supported by clean light brambly tannins that flow into a tart savory finish. It's pleasant, though I have the impression that the climate's a little too warm for the grape.
2 stars

Tenuta Greppone Mazzi Brunello di Montalcino 2003
Lot 07137
Pale almandine ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with decidedly jammy red berry fruit supported by some underbrush and menthol. On the palate it's full, with fairly sweet red berry fruit supported by ample sweet tannins that have some greenish cedary accents, while the acidity is rather low. It's a good expression of Brunello given the long, searing 2003 vintage -- it has improved some since I tasted it at the Anticrime -- but is nowhere near what Brunello can be in a good vintage.
1 star

Tenuta Borgo Conventi Braida Nuova Venezia Giulia IGT 2004
This is extra-tuscan, a 40-60 blend of Refosco and Merlot, and is deep pigeon blood ruby with a fairly intense bouquet that features mentholated red berry fruit laced with black currant fruit, some brambly acidity, and some hints of sage and graphite; it has an almost chewy feel to it. On the palate it's full, rich, and quite smooth on the attack, with slightly bitter black currant fruit supported by graphite shaving bitterness and deft brambly acidity, while the tannins are laced with cedar and flow into a clean bitter finish. It will drink quite well with succulent grilled meats or hearty roasts, and will also go quickly. Because of its aggressive bitterness it won't drink as well by the glass far from the table. Perfect in the proper setting.
2 stars

Tenuta Borgo Conventi Collio Bianco 2004
Lot 06138
This is a blend of 66% barrel fermented Chardonnay and 33% Malvasia Istriana in steel. It's pale brassy yellow and has a rich bouquet laced with honeysuckle and caramel with somementholated accents and hints of candied fruit as well. Harmonious. On the palate it's full, with rich white berry fruit supported by greenish accents and peppery spice that flow into a clean savory finish. Fairly direct, but pleasant, and will be nice as an aperitif or with cheese or fish dishes, while it also has the body necessary for white meats, and sufficient acidity to work well with fried foods.
2 stars

Tenuta Borgo Conventi Collio Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Lot 07180
Bale brassy gold with brassy reflections. Bright bouquet with classic gooseberry aromas mingled with tropical fruit and some floral notes, as well as honeydew melon. Nice balance and inviting. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich slightly bitter gooseberry fruit that flows into a clean bitter gooseberry finish. Pleasant in a direct way, and will drink quite well with fish or cheese based dishes, and also with creamy white meats.
2 stars

La Colombara Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Extra Dry 2007
Pale papery white with fine perlage. Bright bouquet with fairly rich apple accents supported by tart apple acidity; nice crispness too. On the palate it's fresh, and light, with lively green apple fruit supported by crisp aple acidity and flows into a clean crisp finish. Quite approachable in a clean, direct key, and will be pleasant either as an apreitif or at table, especially with creamy dishes such as risotto.
2 stars

And Finally, The Reason for the Evening:

La Lodola Nuova Syrah Cortona DOC 2006
Deep cherry ruby. The bouquet is fresh and quite varietal, with cut tobacco and green leather miongled with spice and underbrush. The vines seem young - there's a directness to it that comes from vineyard youth, but it promises well. On the palate it's moderately rich - the youth of the vineyards is more apparent and comes through as a thinness of fruit, though there is underbrush, which is supported by pronounced graphite bitterness. It's a child, in every sense of the word, and needs time - at least 3-5 more vintages for the vineyards to begin to produce more mature fruit. In short, the future is promising, and it will be interesting to see how this Syrah develops.

Impressions?

Enjoyable, and the reds are bound by a common stylistic thread; they tend to be fruit driven and fairly soft, with acidities that are held firmly in check. In other words, they're fairly international in style, and if you like this style you will enjoy them. Even if you prefer the more aggressive, traditional style with more evident acidity and tannin, you will find things to enjoy, though you'll have to be more careful in selecting. I would recommend, for the traditionally minded, Le Lodole Nuove's Montepulciano, and also the Tenuta Borgo Conventi's Braida Nuova Venezia Giulia IGT.

There were also several whites, and while the Tuscan ones didn't impress me, I liked the two from Friuli Venezia Goilia, a region much better suited to white wines than Tuscany. And I much enjoyed Ruffino's Prosecco, which I tasted at Spumantia but have also included here.

Torrevento: Fine Wines from Puglia

Torrevento is one of the largest Puglian wine producers, with holdings in all the major , and about 400 hectares under vine. Like most large Puglian wineries, they started out selling cistern wines, inky tannic things with high alcohol contents that other winemakers further north would buy by the cisterna (a tank truck is an autocisterna) to bolster whatever it is that they were making where they happened to be.

However, when the younger generation joined in, in 1990, they decided to start putting their own name on the bottles. It took a while for the established wine press to notice this new development, but with time a steady stream of successes has ensued.

Francesco Liantonio told us that they were among the first to work seriously with Nero di Troia, the northern Puglian grape that is currently attracting a great deal of attention. It hasn't always, however, because, by comparison with some of the other southern red varietals it gives low yields: At the most 95 quintals/hectare, and though this is a lot by the standards of quality wine making (especially further north, where the sun is less intense), those in the business of making blending wines needed more to turn a decent profit.

So while others were stripping it out, Francesco and his associates were among the few who were looking at it with a different eye, and liking what they saw. They also grow other autochthonous southern varietals, and in the course of a meal at Florence's Ristorante Oliviero we were treated to a very pleasant sampling of their production. We began with:

Matervitae Bombino Bianco Puglia IGT 2007
Brassy gold with brassy reflections. Rich bouquet with considerable citrus that gains depth from herbal accents and some green apricot. On the palate it's fairly rich with clean rather languid lemony fruit with green apricot accents flowing into a long green apricot finish. Pleasant in a direct, up front key, and will work well as an aperitif, or with fish or cheese-based antipasti, and also with fish-based pasta dishes or risotti, or with grilled or roasted fish or white meats. In short, versatile, and impressive for an entry-level wine.
2 stars

Followed by Reds:

Torre del Falco Murgia IGT Nero Di Troia 2006
This is another entry-level wine; it's deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim, and has a direct, fairly rich bouquet with jammy red berry fruit supported by some spice and hints of caramel from the grapes (no wood). On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich dry cherry fruit supported by underbrush and moderate acidity, while there is also considerable graphite bitterness in the tannins that's typical of Nero di Troia, and provides both backbone and depth. Direct, up front, and will drink nicely with meat-based pasta dishes, simple grilled meats, and other like dishes. A wine that doesn't demand attention, but rather supports what it's served with, and will go quickly.
2 stars

Vigna Pedale Castel del Monte DOC Rosso Riserva 2004
This is a Nero di Troia, and is deep pigeon blood ruby with lively cherry rim. Poured ink; Francesco tells us some of the vineyards are 30 years old, and that they're trained in part to the traditional Alberello style (free standing bushes) and to Spalliera, rows with strung wires providing support. Returning to the wine, the bouquet is delicate, with fairly rich floral accents and clean forest berry fruit -- currants in particular -- laced with spice. Nice depth and pleasing elegance. On the palate it's ample, with clean rich forest berry fruit supported by moderate blackberry acidity and by tannins that are ample, with clean graphite bitterness that continues at length, becoming dusty as it fades, and this is a factor of youth; the wine will become silky with age, and has the capacity to age well for many years. It will work well with succulent, not too fatty red meats, or white meats too, for example turkey or roast beef sliced fairly thick. 200,000 bottles of this wine are produced yearly, and to be frank I'm impressed. This sort of quality usually comes in smaller volumes and at less favorable quality/price ratios (we were given cellar prices, which I am not passing on since the path a wine takes en route can have a tremendous impact upon price).
90-91

Sine Nomine Salice Salentino DOC Rosso Riserva 2003
A more southerly Puglian wine that's 90% Negroamaro and 10% Malvasia Nera; it's impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim and has a vinous bouquet with jammy berry fruit and some gum Arabic mingled with wet earth and moderate spice. Very young. On the palate it's full, ample, and very smooth, with rich clean cherry fruit that has some balsamic accents mingled with underbrush, and is supported by clean sweet smooth tannins that flow into a smooth berry fruit finish. Graceful and elegant in a very approachable key; it doesn't have quite the depth of the Vigna Pedale, but is quite enjoyable and will drink very well with drier meats, for example roast turkey or an arista (roast boned pork loin). Again, excellent quality/price ratio.
88-90

Kebir Puglia IGT Rosso 2002
Puglia was one of the few parts of Italy not to suffer from the dreadfully wet summer weather in 2002 -- simply because it didn't rain, and hasn't rained much any summer since then either, with the result that Torrevento is sinking deep wells from which to provide the water necessary to keep the vines alive. Returning to the wine, Keber, which means sovereign in Arabic and is a bow to Federico II, the Holy Roman Emperor who was excommunicated for his openness with respect to Araby: It's their one nod to international tastes, a blend of Nero di Troia and Cabernet Sauvignon that spends 14 months in barriques, and is inky pigeon blood ruby with violet highlights. Deft bouquet, with forest berry fruit supported by some grassy herbal accents, spice, and hints of underbrush. Inviting, and the Cabernet is quite apparent, but doesn't overpower the Nero di Troia. On the palate it's smooth, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by moderate spice and very smooth ample tannins, while there is sufficient acidity to provide direction, and it flows into a smooth finish. Quite elegant in an approachable international key, and is a wine you will enjoy greatly if you like large, smooth fruit driven wines. It will work well with flavorful, fairly dry meats, or also by the glass farther from the table. As with the others, fine quality/price ratio.
2 stars

And Finished With Another White:

Dulcis in Fundo Moscato di Trani DOC Dolce 2006
This would be more alcoholic, but they interrupt the fermentation when it reaches 12%, leaving sufficient sugar to produce another 3-4% alcohol were it to ferment. It's brassy gold with slight apricot highlights, and has a pleasant bouquet that combines rich honeydew melon with green apricot and quite a bit of sweetness. On the palate it's fairly rich, with languid full honeydew melon fruit that gains depth and contrast from bitter accents that gradually emerge, coming to overshadow the sweetness in the finish. Pleasant and will work quite well with dry patisserie, and is also a wine one could meditate over.
2 stars.

Bottom Line: I'm impressed. They have done a fine job of converting from vini da taglio, blending wines, to first-rate south Italian wines, and have done so while keeping a tight rein on prices -- though I won't give exact figures, everything we tasted sells for under 10 Euros, and most considerably under -- making the wines quite attractive to consumers.

In addition to making wine, Torrevento also makes olive oil, which they are not yet selling, and they grow durum wheat and make high quality pasta, which is for now aimed at the restaurant trade, though with time they hope to expand to quality retailers too.

Want to know more? Check out Torrevento's Site.