The famed Gallo Nero, the seal with the black rooster that symbolizes the region, however, was issued by the Consorzio del Marchio Storico Chianti Classico, and for one reason or another -- cost, politics, and even philosophy (some producers disagreed with the Consorzio's efforts to promote other aspects of the region, for example olive oil) -- many Chianti Classico producers, including some of the best, chose not to apply the Gallo Nero to their bottles.
Seen from the inside a producer's decision to not apply a black rooster seal to his or her bottles might make perfect sense, but from a more general, and especially non-Italian perspective the presence of roosters on some, but not all bottles, was frankly confusing. Was it because some bottles were better than others? Because of geography? Because of cost? Because of the age of the winery? The true reason, individual choice, certainly wasn't apparent from the bottle.
The folks at the Consorzi were well aware of this confusion, and over the past few years have devoted a great deal of energy to bringing just about everybody together; as a result they were able to incorporate the Consorzio del Marchio Storico into the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico, and now there is just the latter, which oversees all aspects of production, from quality control through marketing and promotion. To mark the change the Consorzio has redesigned the fascetta that is applied to all bottles of Chianti Classico, adding a small black rooster to it to help underscore the wine's association with the Chianti region. All Chianti Classico producers have the rooster now, and there will no longer be any guessing as to what its presence or absence means. There has been another, less obvious though perhaps not less important change in Chianti Classico. The wine must now be made exclusively made from red grapes: Malvasia and Trebbiano, which were once required (10-30% in the initial DOC regulations drawn up in 1966, 5% "For the sake of tradition" in the 1984 DOCG update, and up to 5% in the DOCG regulations specific to Chianti Classico adopted in 1996) are now prohibited.
To be honest, I have mixed feelings about this; while it is true that when Baron Bettino Ricasoli developed the formula for Chianti in the mid 1800s, he said that for the wines he meant to age, he just used red grapes, Sangiovese for backbone and character, and Canaiolo to add grace and elegance, it is also true that he added some Malvasia del Chianti (a white grape) to the wines intended to be drunk young.
In other words, he was making different wines for different goals, and while it is certainly true that requiring white grapes in all Chianti Classico was a gross and unfortunate distortion of his formula, I'm not certain that prohibiting white grapes entirely isn't a distortion in the other direction, because a small percentage of Malvasia (Bettino didn't use Trebbiano) adds a deft and pleasant liveliness to both palate and bouquet of youthful Chianti.
Nor am I completely alone in these feelings; when I tasted Chianti Classico at a show in Greve this fall, a number of producers told me they would keep putting white grapes into their vino d'annata until the prohibition went into effect, and I recently encountered a vino da tavola that was, I was told, the winery's Chianti Classico, without barriques and with 10% white grapes added. It was quite nice, in a lively, fresh, youthful key, and I wouldn't be surprised if some Chianti Classico producers who want their vino d'annata to be young, immediate, and ready to drink continued to slip some white grapes into the blend -- much like producers who wanted their Riserva to have greater depth and power used to omit the required 5% white grapes. We shall see.
In the meantime, a few observations on the vintages poured.
The Chianti Classico Disciplinare offers producers a fair amount of latitude in releasing their wines; producers cannot release the vintage wine until the October following the harvest, and must age Riserve for two years, at least three months of which must be in bottle. These are minimum times, and many producers hold their wines longer. Most, but not all producers skip a year between the vino d'annata and the Riserva, and thus would pour, for example, the 2003 Chianti d'annata and the 2001 Riserva (keep in mind that in poor vintages, e.g. 2002, many producers will not make a Riserva). This year's presentation featured:
- Chianti Classico 2005 -- All barrel and tank samples
- Chianti Classico 2004 -- Some producers have already bottled it, and others will shortly
- Chianti Classico 2003 -- Just about all bottled
- Chianti Classico 2002 -- Just a few samples, all bottled
- Chianti Classico 2001 -- Just a few samples, all bottled
- Chianti Classico Riserva 2003 -- Most of these are in bottle, though there were a few barrel samples
- Chianti Classico Riserva 2002 -- A few brave souls did make it
- Chianti Classico Riserva 2001 -- A fair number of producers presented it
- Chianti Classico Riserva 2000 -- A few producers presented it
The 2005 vintage was too young to say much about, though it appears to be quite variable; overall the summer was cool and wet, but some areas got much more cold and wet than others. It required careful work in the vineyards, and a measure of luck.
The 2004 vintage struck me positively: The wines display considerable elegance and finesse, and promise quite nicely.
The 2003 vintage was one of the hottest in recent memory, and though one often hears that heat and sun make for a good vintage, one can also have too much of a good thing: Many vineyards suffered heat stress, which interferes with the ripening of the grapes -- in severe cases they simply dry into raisins, whereas in less severe cases the accumulation of polyphenols in the skins can be affected, while the sugars continue to accumulate in the pulp. If this happens the wines can be quite alcoholic, and also shrill, with greenish unripe tannins. The other thing that can happen with very hot weather is that the grapes can overripen, producing big soft wines with plumy to cooked aromas and tastes, and ample lax tannins; wines of this kind bring to mind an overstuffed cushion.
Unfortunately, when a winery has problems with heat stress all the wines can be effected, with those made from vineyard selections (the riserve) being big and soft, and those made from the remaining grapes being alcoholic and shrill. In short, 2003 is a vintage to approach with care, and it helps to know where, exactly, the winery is. Wineries whose vineyards are at higher elevations, for example the upper reaches around Panzano or above Radda will have probably had fewer problems than those in more lowlying areas, say the slopes below Castellina in Chianti.
The 2002 vintage has been widely described as the worst vintage of the past 20 years, and while it was poor, I'm not sure I would go that far. First of all, almost nobody made a Riserva, and this means that with a couple of exceptions all the best grapes went into the Chianti d'Annata. Second, while it is true that the wines are lean, with lively acidities and greenish to brambly overtones in their fruit, it's also true that they tend to drink quite well. In short, they're not wines for long aging, but they do display a certain charm and will go nicely with foods; to be honest, I prefer them to the 2003 vintage.
A great deal has been written about 2001, which was an excellent vintage. 2001 Chianti D'Annata is by now mature and can be nice to very nice, whereas the more recently released Riserve are still climbing; one could drink them now, but they will reward those with the patience to give them a few more years.
Though the heat didn't come until August, 2000 in some ways resembles 2003: Many of the wines, especially Riserve, are big, soft, and flabby, while many of those that are not are shrill. Approach the vintage with caution.
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La Storia del Chianti
More about how the Chianti Classico region developed over the past 50 years.
Chianti Croce e Delizia
General observations on Chianti Classico.
The Chianti Classico Anteprima, held in Florence's Stazione Leopolda on February 20-21, featured more than a hundred wineries, and more than 400 wines. This is quite a bit more than I could hope to taste in the time allotted, and I therefore selected wines, some based on prior experience, others because fellow journalists suggested them, and still others because they caught my eye. The Wines I tasted:
Castello Di Fonterutoli
Via Ottone III, 5
Località Fonterutoli
I-53011 Castellina in Chianti (Si)
http://www.fonterutoli.it/default_eng.htm
Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico Fonterutoli 2004
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is young, and vinous, with intense berry fruit laced with sea salt considerable bitter graphite shavings mingled spice -- nutmeg and cardamom, in particular -- while sour citric acidity provides depth. Quite fresh, and gives an impression of muscular sinuosity. On the palate it's medium bodied, and rich, with fairly intense black cherry fruit supported by lively acidity and by fairly sweet tannins that have a deft brambly graphite shaving burr, and flow into a long slightly sour berry fruit finish. Pleasant, though it's still a bit disjointed, and needs another year to get its feet under it; it will drink quite well with rich pasta sauces, and with succulent red meats. Expect it to go quickly, and you may want a second bottle handy.
86-7
Castello di Querceto
Dudda 50020 Lucolena
Greve in Chianti Firenze
http://www.castello-querceto.it/
Castello di Querceto Chianti Classico 2004
Lively ruby with black reflections and some orange in the rim. The bouquet is fairly deft, in an austere key, with brambly berry fruit supported by underbrush and a fair amount of iodine mingled with sea salt. Tight. On the palate it's medium bodied and rounder than I might have expected from the nose, with powerful brambly berry fruit that gains direction from some brambly acidity, and is supported by fairly smooth sweet tannins that have a clean Sangiovese burr; the fruit fades into a fairly long slightly bitter finish. It's more austere than some other Chianti Classicos, but deft too, and will drink quite well with meat-based pasta sauces, including heartier dishes such as lasagna, or with grilled or roasted meats. Expect the bottle to go quickly.
2 stars
Castello di Querceto Il Picchio Chianti Classico Riserva 2001
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, with bright jammy red berry fruit supported by deft acidity and clean spice with some toasted cedar overtones; there's quite a bit going on. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful cherry fruit that gains direction from deft citric acidity, and is supported by ample tightly woven tannins that lead into a long fruit laced finish with pleasing acidity to keep it alive. Quite elegant, and will drink well with grilled meats or roasts, or with rich stews, including game along the lines of boar or venison. It also has the capacity age well for many years.
90
Azienda Agricola Fontodi
50020 Panzano in Chianti
http://www.fontodi.com/
Fontodi Chianti Classico 2004
Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is frankly disjointed and typical for a barrel sample, with quite a bit of wood and cedar, and little else. The palate is much more promising, with fairly rich cherry fruit that gains direction from lively citric acidity, and is supported by tannins that lay a dusky, bitter dusty trail over the tongue, and flow into a fairly quick bitter finish. To be frank, it's too young to pour, or to score, but it promises quite nicely, and I await a more complete version eagerly.
Fontodi Chianti Classico 2003
Fairly delicate almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with sour cherry fruit supported by forest berry fruit and some mint, with nutmeg and sea salt contributing, and underlying sea salt as well. Quite a bit going on, in a fairly hot key. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright red berry fruit, a mix of sour and ripe cherries with some green raspberry acidity supported by deft brambly tannins that flow into a long hot finish with brambly tannic overtones. It's big, and young, and aggressive, and needs time, and though it will never achieve the balance of a less extreme vintage it is pleasant. Drink it with succulent grilled meats or stews, and expect it to age nicely, softening some but never completely loosing that aggressive edge.
84
Isole e Olena
Località Isole 1
50021 Barberino Val d'Elsa
Tel 055 807 2767
Isole e Olena Chianti Classico 2004
Barrel sample
Fairly deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is out of whack, with a fair amount of iodine and sea salt, and some citric acidity overlying cedar, with very sour berry fruit as well. It needs bottle age. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards light, and surprisingly aggressive, with bright sour cherry fruit driven by tongue-tingling peppery spice and considerable greenish bramble, which flow into a peppery green finish. It feels like a colder vintage wine than 2004 was, somehow, and I doubt it will ever completely lose its aggressive edge, though it will fade some with time; it will in any case drink quite well with succulent fatty meats, if you like the style. Indeed, if you do, the bottle will go very fast.
Isole e Olena Chianti Classico 2003
Almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, in a distinctly aggressive key, with quite a bit of acidity mingled with bramble, alcohol, and hot spice; there isn't much fruit to speak of. On the palate it's bright, with zesty citric red berry fruit supported by tannins that have a warm cedary burr, and flow into a fairly long peppery finish with citric berry fruit overtones. It's a child of a hot vintage -- one can almost feel the waves of heat rising from the ground -- and will drink best with richer, fattier cuts of meat off the grill, or perhaps even fried meats and vegetables.
2 stars
Badia a Coltibuono
Località Badia a Coltibuono
53013 Gaiole in Chianti (SI)
http://www.coltibuono.com
Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with peppery spice from wood balancing moderately rich cherry and forest berry fruit; the effect is pleasing in a rather seductive and slightly luscious key, the Italian word that comes to mind is ammiccante, which means "come hither." On the palate it's medium bodied and graceful with elegant red berry fruit that gains direction from some acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that have slight cedary notes, and by an underlying graphite bitterness that carries into the finish, gradually overshadowing the fruit. Pleasant, and will drink quite well with hearty soups or rich pasta dishes, and also with grilled red meats -- or poultry with it skin -- and light stews. You may want a second bottle handy.
2 stars
Bibbiano
Via Bibbiano 76
53011 Castellina in Chianti
http://www.tenutadibibbiano.com
Bibbiano Chianti Classico 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is powerful, and rich, with an interesting mixture of fruit and vegetal notes mingled with cedar; the combination brings candied mentholated watermelon rind to mind, somehow. Atypical, but not unpleasant. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards light, with delicate bitter brambly berry fruit that gains direction from some brambly acidity, and from smooth sweet tannins whose bitter cedar component carries through into the finish. It's softer than some of the other wines on the palate, at least in terms of fruit, and I would therefore drink it with drier white meats.
1 star
Casa Sola
Via Cortine, 5
50021 Barberino Val d'Elsa
http://www.fattoriacasasola.com
Casa Sola Chianti Classico 2004
Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and lively ruby rim. The bouquet is flat -- a bit of acidity, and some forest berry fruit, but not much else, and this is a consequence of its being a barrel sample. On the palate it's medium bodied and again disjointed, with a fair amount of alcohol and some brandied cherry fruit supported by brambly tannins and lasting warmth; the finish is brambly, and fairly acidic. It needs time, and though it is really not yet ready to come out, I expect that it will work more on the interplay of brambles and acidity than fruit when it does.
Casa Sola Chianti Classico 2003
Moderately intense almandine ruby with black reflections and some almandine on rim. The bouquet is rich and rather languid, with nutmeg peppery spice mingled with grilled bell pepper and red berry fruit, and some underlying jammy notes. On the palate it's medium bodied, with less fruit than I might have expected from the nose; what is there is red berry with plum overtones, and is supported by tannins that have an angry cedar-laced burr, and flow into a distinctly tannic finish. There isn't much acidity, and therefore the direction comes from the tannins; drink it with fattier meats that beg a tannic bite to clear the palate.
1 star
Castello Di Ama
Località Ama
53013 Gaiole in Chianti
http://www.castellodiama.com/
Castello di Ama Chianti Classico 2004
Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is disjointed, with an airy rush of candied black currant fruit mingled with gum Arabic and some cedary bitterness. Needs bottle age. On the palate it's medium bodied, with what is at this stage relatively minor fruit, supported by brambly cedar based tannins and some acidity. It's unsettled, and scoring it would be to do it a disservice because there is potential.
Castello di Ama Chianti Classico 2003
Fairly deep black cherry ruby with black reflections, The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up red berry fruit mingled with plums, and some pleasant berry fruit acidity underlain by spice and sea salt. On the palate it's medium bodied in a rather scrappy key, with bright red berry fruit -- a mixture of cherry and raspberry -- supported by lively acidity, and by tannins that have an as of yet upstanding cedary burr. It needs a year, but will resolve nicely, and drink well with grilled meats or hearty pasta sauces.
2 stars
Castello di Ama Vigneto Bellavista Chianti Classico 2001
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is surprisingly fresh, with a mixture of spice and blackcurrant fruit that is, well, luscious; not quite MM in a glass, but well along in that direction. On the palate it's full, rich, and smooth, with powerful cherry fruit that gains depth from some berry fruit jam, and direction from delicate acidity, while smooth sweet tannins provide support, and lead into a long forest berry fruit finish. Quite elegant, and very pleasant to sip; it's not quite a meditation wine, but you could drink it far from the table if you wanted. At table? With a succulent porterhouse cut grilled rare. Worth seeking out if you like the modern style of Chianti, and even if you're a traditionalist you'll find things to like.
2 stars
Agricoltori Chianti Geografico
Via Mulinaccio, 10
53013 Gaiole in Chianti (SI)
http://www.chiantigeografico.it
Agricoltori del Chianti Geografico Chianti Classico 2004
Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is smoky, with a considerable rush of cedar mingled with alcohol, peppery spice, and iodine. On the palate it's promising, though a touch softer than I expected from the nose; there's fairly rich cherry and black currant fruit that has a surprising languidity to it, perhaps because there isn't that much acidity driving it, and the tannins are smooth, albeit with a slight cedary burr; the finish is cedar laced, but this is also because the wine is not yet in bottle and has yet to develop. It promises to be graceful in a fairly soft key.
Carpineto
Località Dudda 17/B
50022 Greve in Chianti
http://www.carpineto.com
Carpineto Chianti Classico 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with a pleasing mixture of red berry fruit and sea salt with underlying pencil shavings and a fair amount of iodine; it brings to mind a well-plumped pillow, somehow. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards full and fairly rich, with ample slightly bitter red berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that are a touch overpolished for my taste, and by moderate acidity, which provides some direction, but not too much, and it all flows into a soft cherry fruit finish. I found myself wishing for more direction than it has; it's fairly big, and a bit too soft for me, though if you like smoother wines with less bite it will work well for you, perhaps with roasted white meats.
1 star
Poderi Castellare di Castellina
Località Castellare
Castellina in Chianti (Siena) 53011
http://www.castellare.it
Castellare di Castellina Chianti Classico 2004
Cherry ruby with black reflections and lively ruby rim. The bouquet is fresh and quite young, with cut flowers, in particular violets, mingled with some sea salt, hints of iodine, and jammy forest berry fruit a mixture of cherries and blackberries. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards light, with moderately intense brambly red berry fruit, a mix of cherries and raspberries, supported by some sour acidity and by greenish brambly tannins that flow into a long brambly finish. It's aggressive, in a rather splintery way, and though it is obviously very young I'm not sure what it will do anon; there isn't that much fruit backing up the structure, and as a result I'd be more tempted to drink it now than to wait for future developments. It will work beast with simple quickly cooked meats, or hearty legume based soups.
1 star
Castelli del Grevepesa
Via Grevigiana 34
50024 Mercatale Val di Pesa
http://www.castellidelgrevepesa.it/
Castelli del Grevepesa Clemente Settimo Chianti Classico 2004
Barrel sample
Pale back cherry ruby with some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is oaky, like sniffing a barrel slat, and this is because of its being in barrel now. On the palate it's more promising though still heavily oak laced; there is some red berry fruit under all the veneer, but I'm a little worried about the acidity, which isn't quite as strong as I might have liked.
Castello di Meleto
Località Meleto
53013 Gaiole in Chianti (Siena)
http://www.castellomeleto.it
Castello di Meleto Chianti Classico 2004
Barrel sample
Fairly deep slightly cloudy cherry ruby paling at the rim. The bouquet is smoky, with sea salt and iodine mingling with violets. Disjointed. On the palate it's quite promising, with fairly rich slightly bitter cherry fruit supported by graphite shaving bitterness and by tannins that will be quite smooth when they have settled; he finish is long and fruit laced. It's going to be fruit driven in a very clean modern key, and if you like this slightly opulent style you will like it very much. One of those wines one hates not to score.
Castello di Meleto Chianti Classico 2003
Black cherry ruby with black reflections and ruby rim tending towards almandine. The bouquet is fairly rich, and mentholated, with underlying red berry fruit and spice; it's nicely balanced. On the palate it's bright, with surprisingly acidic sour berry fruit supported by clean brambly tannins that flow into a hot tannic finish. It's quite aggressive, in a rather dry key, and if you like this style it will work quite well with fattier meats off the grill, or even a platter of mixed fried meats and vegetables. Particular, but in the proper occasion it will be perfect, and will go very fast.
1 star
Castello di Verrazzano
Località Verrazzano
50022 Greve in Chianti (FI)
http://www.verrazzano.com
Castello di Verrazzano Chianti Classico 2004
Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and quite young, with violets and cherry fruit laced with balsamic saltiness and an undercurrent of cedar. On the palate it's tongue-curlingly oaky, like licking a sheet of veneer, with brambly acidity and sour cherry fruit added. There are Works in Progress, and there are outlines, and this falls into the latter category. It needs time, though I would venture to say it will be a brambly, fairly aggressive wine in a traditional key when it emerges blinking into the light.
Castello di Vicchiomaggio
Via Vicchiomaggio 4
50022 Greve in Chianti (FI)
http://www.vicchiomaggio.it
Castello di Vicchiomaggio San Jacopo Chianti Classico 2004
Pale slightly almandine laced ruby with frankly almandine rim. Color is not the strongpoint of Sangiovese, and we see that here. The bouquet is delicate, with some flowers, brambles, and dry heather mingling with fairly tart red berry fruit, a mix of cherries and some raspberries, with some greenish undertones to provide a counter. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright brambly cherry fruit that gains direction from some sour cherry and raspberry acidity, and is supported by brambly tannins that flow into a clean brambly finish. It's extremely traditional, and graceful too, though you have to like the style -- if you like big soft marvels of concentration this is not for you -- drink it with succulent, not too fatty red meats. I would give it a year or two.
2 stars
Cecchi
Loc. Casina dei Ponti, 56
53011 Castellina in Chianti (SI)
http://www.cecchi.net/en/home.asp
Cecchi Chianti Classico 2004
Fairly deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and decidedly traditional, with a mixture of herbal notes and cherry fruit supported by bramble, peppery spice, and sea salt; with time one might also expect balsam, but it isn't here yet. On the palate it's deft, in a fairly light key, with pleasingly graceful cherry fruit supported by some sour cherry acidity, and by brambly tannins that have slight greenish notes, and flow into a long clean cherry bramble finish. This isn't a wine that will win at a tasting, but it will do very well at the dinner that follows because it will complement food beautifully, in particular meat based pasta dishes, grilled meats, or light stews. You'll likely want a second bottle.
2 stars
Cecchi Chianti Classico Messer Pietro di Teuzzo 2004
Barrel sample
Libely ruby with black reflections. The nose is shut tight, though with swishing some brambles emerge that bring the basic Chianti Classico to mind. On the palate it's similar to its sibling, though it obviously has quite a ways to go; there's brambly berry fruit supported by cedar laced tannins that are still splintery at present.
Castello di Cacchiano
53010 Monti in Chianti
Tel: 0577 747 018
Castello di Cacchiano Chianti Classico 2002
Delicate almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is deft, with red berry fruit, a mixture of sour cherries and some raspberries, mingling with green leather and some iodine, and underlying sea salt and greenish bramble. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite deft, with rich rather sour cherry fruit that gains direction from some lemony acidity, and sis supported by peppery brambly tannins; the fruit fades fairly quickly into brambles and alcoholic warmth that continue at length in the finish. Delicate and deft, in a decidedly traditional key, and proof that if one is careful one can make good -- not great, but good -- wine even in a very off year. I would drink it with a succulent porterhouse cut, grilled rare.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Cerbaia
Strada Cerbaia 16
50020 San Donato in Poggio (Fi)
http://www.cerbaia.com/
Cerbaia Chianti Classico 2002
Almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is rich, with brambly red berry fruit supported by some sour raspberry acidity and by pleasing vegetal notes that are clearly the result of the vintage. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense red berry fruit, a mixture of fresh and sour cherries, supported by greenish tannins that are decidedly brambly, and flow into a spicy green tannin finish with pleasing sour berry fruit underlay. It's quite pleasant, and though not a wine to lay down, is something to seek out if you like a more traditional style, to accompany succulent grilled meats, especially steak or lamb chops, which will benefit from the acidity in the wine. Well worth seeking out.
90
Montemaggio
Località Montemaggio
53017 Radda In Chianti
http://www.montemaggio.com
Fattoria di Montemaggio Chianti Classico 2002
Almandine ruby with almandine rim fading into orange. The bouquet is moderately intense, with a relatively simple balance between slightly greenish berry fruit and cedar with underlying pencil shavings; the palate reflects the nose with moderately intense rather greenish red berry fruit supported by brambly tannins that flow into a clean brambly finish. Pleasant in a traditional key, but direct; what you see is what you get. Drink it with succulent grilled or roasted meats.
1 star
Rodano
Località Rodano 84
53011 Castellina in Chianti
Tel 0577 743 107
Rodano Chianti Classico 2002
Almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is delicate, and frankly inviting, with pleasing slightly sour cherry fruit mingled with dried flowers and some bramble, with underlying airy spice from grapes. Quite nice, and invites repeated sniffs coupled with concentration to understand what it has to say. On the palate it's medium bodied, with delicate red berry fruit supported by some brambly acidity, and by tannins that are clean and glancing. It's very much the child of an off vintage, but graceful, and if you like traditional rather austere wines you will like it very much. Drink it now with succulent, not overly fatty grilled or roasted meats. Stews would likely be too much for it.
2 stars
Dievole
Via Dievole 6
53010 Vagliagli (SI)
http://www.dievole.it/
Dievole Chianti Classico 2004
Barrel sample
Black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is disjointed, with quite a bit of oak mingling with peppery spice; not much fruit yet. On the palate it's fairly light, with rather dry berry fruit supported by cedar laced tannins that at present dominate. It needs time, but I wonder how much fruit will remain when it has done its time. Too soon to tell.
La Madonnina
Via Palaia 39
50027 Strada in Chianti
http://www.triacca.com
La Madonnina Bello Stento Chianti Classico 2004
Almandine ruby with white cherry rim. The bouquet is shut tight, though some brambly spice with slight acidic overtones emerges with determined swishing. It's like a person drawn up into a ball, arms covering face. On the palate it's fairly light, and lively, with distinctly sour red berry fruit, a mixture of currant and greenish blackberry, supported by splintery brambly tannins that flow into a fairly long warm finish. It's quite aggressive, in an underripe key, and is not something you should look into if you like smoother softer wines. On the other hand, if you like more aggressive wines, it will work well with succulent fairly fatty grilled meats.
1 star
Le Miccine
Strada Traversa Chiantigiana
53013 Gaiole in Chianti
http://www.lemiccine.com
Le Miccine Chianti Classico 2004
113 barrel sample
Oaky, with considerable sea salt and some iodine. On the palate it's full, and fairly rich, with sour citrus laced berry fruit supported by clean tannins that flow into a fairly long lemon laced finish. It promises much better on the palate than it does on the nose, and may develop nicely.
Le Miccine Chianti Classico 2003
Fairly deep almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is closed, though swishing does bring up some plum-laced berry fruit and nutmeg spice. On the palate it's soft, but deft, with fairly bright jammy cherry fruit that gains definition from raspberry jam acidity, and is supported by tannins that are ample and smoothly woven; it flows into a clean acidic raspberry laced finish. I think the nose is suffering bottle shock, and expect it to develop with time; it will drink nicely with succulent red meats, and I would expect it to hold well for a few years, though it doesn't have the depth necessary for longer aging.
2 stars
Monte Bernardi
Via Chiantigiana
50020 Panzano in Chianti
http://www.montebernardi.com/
Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico 2004
Fairly deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is brambly, with spice -- nutmeg and some cardamom -- mingled with red berry fruit and greenish vegetal overtones; quite pleasant in a fairly traditional key. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite deft, with pleasing slightly sour cherry fruit supported by brambly tannins whose spice continues at length, gaining bitterness as the fruit fades. Pleasant in a tomboyish traditional key, and will drink quite well with succulent grilled meats, including lamb chops and other fattier cuts. If you like the style the bottle will go quite fast.
2 stars
Piccini
Località Piazzole
53011 Castellina in Chianti
http://www.tenutapiccini.it
Piccini Solco Chianti Classico 2004
Barrel sample
Fairly deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is surprisingly rich, with candied berry fruit and bell pepper accents, but obviously still has a ways to go. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately rich fruit and quite a bit of brambly acidity. It's not a fruit bomb by any means, and we shall see what becomes of it when it is released.
Azienda Agricola Poggio Bonelli
Località Poggio Bonelli
53019 Castelnuovo Berardenga
http://www.poggiobonelli.it/
Poggio Bonelli Chianti Classico 2004
Barrel sample
Inkly imp pyrope ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is frankly oaky, with some underlying berry fruit, and a fair amount of graphite, but unbalanced. On the palate it's rather soft, with moderately intense fruit overshadowed by cedar notes. Oak over wood and it may continue in this vein.
Querciabella
Via di Barbiano 17
50022 Greve in Chianti
http://www.querciabella.com/home.htm
Querciabella Chianti Classico 2004
Barrel sample
Black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is oaky, with cocoa and some coffee, overshadowing candied fruit. Very much a work in progress. On the palate it's fairly rich, with powerful very smooth cherry plum fruit supported by tannins that are ample, smooth, and oak laced. It promises to be elegant in a decidedly international key, and if you like the style you will like it very much. But do give it a year at least to get its bearings.
San Fabiano Calcinaia
Località Cellole
53011 Castellina in Chianti
http://www.sanfabianocalcinaia.com
San Fabiano Calcinaia Chianti Classico 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is a bit unusual, with brambles and bitter cedar with overshadowing hardwood ash; it's still unsettled and at present the oak is overshadowing the fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich berry fruit -- sour cherry and some raspberry -- that gains direction from brambly raspberry acidity, and is supported by brambly tannins that flow into a clean savory finish with some sour red berry fruit to hold things together. Deft, in a scrappy key, that I wouldn't have expected from the nose, and to be frank it needs time, at least a year, at which time it will have smoothed and softened considerably -- though it will never be voluptuous -- gaining the cool (but exciting) definition of a well toned athlete. Drink with succulent red meats, off the grill or out of the oven, but do give it the time it needs.
2 stars
Tenuta di Lilliano
Località Lilliano
Castellina in Chianti
http://www.lilliano.com/
Tenuta di Lilliano Chianti Classico 2004
Pale black almandine ruby with black reflections and some orange in the rim. The bouquet is shut tight, though swishing brings up animal hair and saddle leather mingled with some red berry fruit and hints of leafy underbrush. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by brambly citric acidity, and by fairly smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long slightly peppery finish, with sour berry fruit overtones. Traditional, in a scrappy tomboy key; it's not a wine that will show well in a tasting, but it will drink very well with foods, which is to my mind more important. Serve it with rich meat-based pasta sauces, succulent grilled meats -- chicken or spare ribs would be nice indeed, though sausages wouldn't be amiss -- or with stews. If you like the style you can expect the bottle to go quickly.
2 stars
Tenuta di Lilliano Chianti Classico Riserva 2003
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up hot peppery spice and some underbrush; there's not much fruit to speak of -- it needs time to develop. On the palate it's fairly rich, with warm jammy red berry fruit supported by clean deft brambly acidity, and by smooth fairly sweet tannins that flow into a fairly quick tannic finish with some underlying cherry plum fruit. It needs time for the nose to develop -- I'd give it a year -- but is pleasant in a middle of the road key, and will drink quite nicely with grilled or roasted meats, or stews. Though it won't win at a tasting, if you set out a bottle you'll find yourself setting out another.
2 stars
Rocca delle Macie
Località Le Macie
53011 Castellina in Chianti
http://www.roccadellemacie.com
Rocca delle Macie Chianti Classico 2004
Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly well developed for a barrel sample, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by quite a bit of alcohol, and peppery nose tingling spice, with underlying slightly greenish brambles. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense rather bitter plum-berry fruit and a fair amount of glancing cedar-laced tannins with youthful splintery undercurrents. It will likely be nice enough, though I found the fruit a touch flat now -- not as much acidity as I might have liked, and the task of keeping it up falls to the brambly elements of the tannins. The bottle may correct this, but we shall have to wait and see.
Rocca delle Macie Riserva di Fivizzano Chianti Classico Riserva 2001
Deep black cherry ruby with black almandine reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with fairly dusky cherry fruit supported by spice and cedar with some animal hair as well. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards full, with fairly rich red berry fruit -- cherry with some raspberry brightness -- supported by ample smooth tannins that flow into a long clean finish. It's good, but I found it a touch settled, and would have liked more steel in the tannins, which are a trifle lax. It will in any case drink well with red meats, be they grilled, roasted, or stewed.
2 stars
Ruffino
Marketing and PR: Tenuta Poggio Casciano
Via Poggio al Mandorlo 1
50011 Quarate di Bagno a Ripoli
http://www.ruffino.com/
Ruffino Santedame Chianti Classico 2004
Delicate black cherry ruby with ruby reflections. The bouquet is spicy, with animal hair mingled with quite a bit of sea salt, and a fair amount of cedar, but not much in the way of fruit at first swish. Further swishing confirms. On the palate it's medium bodied with moderate fruit -- sour red berry -- supported by smooth sweet tannins that have burnt coffee overtones with hints of cocoa, from wood. I'd have liked more fruit; it will in any case drink well with grilled meats or with lighter stews.
1 star
Terrabianca
San Fedele a Paterno
53017 Radda in Chianti
http://www.terrabianca.com/index.html
Terrabianca Scassino Chianti Classico 2004
Delicate almandine ruby with slightly stronger almandine at the rim. The bouquet is spicier than I might have expected, with considerable cedar and some shellac, but not much in the way of fruit. In its defense one can say it's still very young, and obviously needs time for the aromas to develop. On the palate it's again strongly oaked, with fairly bright citrus-laced red berry fruit supported by tannins that have strong cocoa and coffee accents from wood toast, and flow into a long fairly sweet oaky finish. The oak will settle some with time, but I expect that it will always predominate; if you like this rather polished though not softened -- lively acidity does come through -- style, it will work well with succulent drier meats served with rich gravies.
1 star
Torraccia di Presura
Via Della Montagnola 130
50027 Strada in Chianti
http://www.torracciadipresura.it/eindex.html
Torraccia di Presura Il Tarocco Chianti Classico 2004
Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is spicy, with pepper and nutmeg laced with some cardamom, and with some underlying brambly acidity. On the palate it's deft, though disjointed, with fairly bright sour cherry plum fruit supported by lively brambly tannins that have smoky overtones; it will likely clean up nicely in a fairly traditional way.
Villa Vignamaggio
Via Petriolo 5
50022 Greve in Chianti
http://www.vignamaggio.com/
Vignamaggio Chianti Classico 2004
Barrel sample
Fairly deep r with cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, with quite a bit of cherry fruit supported by elegant spice and a fair volume of pencil shavings. Promising, and quite good for a barrel sample. On the palate it's full and rich, with bright cherry fruit supported by clean slightly brambly tannins that have dusky bitter overtones, and flow into a fairly quick finish. It is a barrel sample, and as such is obviously a work in progress, but we can see where it is going and I think it will be worth waiting for. Another of those wines I hate not to score.
Vignamaggio Chianti Classico 2003
Fairly deep almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is clean, and somewhat closed, though swishing brings up bright cherry fruit supported by quite a bit of raspberry acidity with underlying peppery spice. Pleasant in a slightly scrappy key. On the palate it's medium bodied and deft, with lively red berry fruit supported by clean raspberry acidity, and by tannins that have a warm Sangiovese burr, and lead into a long warm finish. Pleasant, and though it lacks the depth of better vintages, it's nowhere near as heat-struck as many 2003s are; it's quite approachable and will drink nicely with rich pasta dishes or succulent grilled meats. I might also consider it for light creamy stews, though in a few months' time.
85
Vignamaggio Castello di Monnalisa Chianti Classico Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is young, and intense, with red berry fruit supported by slightly greenish cedar and nutmeg spice, while there is also underbrush and some sea salt. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards full, with bright cherry and black currant fruit that gains definition from some berry fruit acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that leas into a long shadow-laced tannic finish with bright berry fruit accents. Quite elegant, though it still hasn't completely found itself; it will drink well with grilled meats or stews, though I would give it another year or two to get its bearings.
85
Villa Cafaggio
Via San Martino a Cecione, 5
50020 Panzano in Chianti
http://www.villacafaggio.it
Villa Cafaggio Chianti Classico 2004
Barrel sample
Deep black cherry fruit with black reflections. The bouquet is closed, with some cedar and airy spice, but not much fruit. A barrel sample. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright cherry fruit supported by lively acidity, and by tannins that have glancing cedar overtones. It is very much in the air, but will likely come together nicely.
Villa Calcinaia
Via Citille, 84
50022 Greve in Chianti
http://www.villacalcinaia.it
Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico 2004
Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby. The bouquet is quite young, with cut flowers and violets mingling with red berry fruit and some animal hair. Nice for a barrel sample, and quite intense. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense fairly sour berry fruit that is at present overshadowed by rascally brambly tannins that cover most everything. They will settle when it's in bottle however, and it will likely develop into what I expect from Villa Calcinaia: A light, graceful, easy to drink wine in a fairly traditional key.
Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico 2003
Deep almandine ruby with black reflections and more pronounced almandine at the rim. The bouquet is slightly closed -- a factor of youth -- though wishing brings up mentholated berry fruit with underlying spice and some airy notes as well; it does, in any case, suggest heat, and this is the vintage. On the palate it's deft, with bright cherry and forest berry fruit that gains direction from lively acidity, and is supported by clean tannins that have a rather evident cedar-laced peppery burr. Pleasant, in a lesser key, but quite approachable, and will drink well now with lesser grilled meats or light stews. I don't think I'd hold it for too long.
2 stars
Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Riserva 2003
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with warm mentholated red berry fruit supported by nutmeg spice and some sea salt, with underlying greenish cedar. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite soft, with ample cherry plum fruit that isn't as rich as I might have liked, though it does gain some direction from sour plum acidity, and support from ample softly woven tannins that work from below the surface, as it were, though they do reveal a splintery burr in the finish. It's clearly the product of a hot vintage, and I would drink it now with drier meats because as time passes and the tannins soften it will most likely flag.
1 star
Villa S. Andrea
Via di Fabbrica, 63
Montefiridolfi
50026 San Casciano Val di Pesa
http://www.villas-andrea.it
Villa Sant'Andra Chianti Classico 2004
Barrel sample
Black cherry ruby with black reflections and some orange in the rim. The bouquet is surprisingly developed for a barrel sample, with bright brambly berry fruit supported by pencil shaving bitterness and some underlying cedar. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite smooth, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by tannins that have not yet come together; they reveal an abundant rather angry burr. It needs time, but promises well.
Barone Ricasoli
Cantine del Castello di Brolio
http://www.ricasoli.it
Barone Ricasoli Brolio Chianti Classico 2003
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and smoky, with chewy berry fruit jam supported by sea salt and some animal tang, mingled with balsamic notes and peppery spice. Pungent. On the palate it's medium bodied, and chewy, with moderately intense red berry and plum fruit that has a cooked feel to it, supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have an angry cedary burr. It's very young, but also somewhat heat-struck, and will become quite soft when the tannins have folded in, in a year or so. As a result I'd drink it with drier meats, perhaps a well-done roast.
1 star
Caparsa
Località Caparsino, 48
53017 Radda in Chianti
http://www.caparsa.it/
Caparsa Doccio a Matteo Chianti Classico 2003
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with considerable peppery spice overlying brambly red berry fruit and some pencil shavings; though quite young it holds together well. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright slightly sour cherry and black currant fruit supported by brambly tannins with an as-of-yet unresolved cedar burr that will fold in with time. Pleasant, in a fairly zesty key; I would give it a year and then enjoy it with a hearty pasta dish or grilled meats.
2 stars
Casaloste
Via Montagliari, 32
50020 Panzano
http://www.casaloste.com
Casaloste Chianti Classico 2003
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is intense, and shadowy, with cedar and penetrating sea salt that open some to reveal brambly berry fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit that gains definition from moderate citric acidity, and is supported by brambly tannins that have yet to settle into the wine. It is a bit heat-struck, and by comparison with other vintages of Casaloste I have tasted, much less acidic. But it does hold together well, and may achieve a lacy grace with time. Drink it with grilled meats, or drier roasts with rich gravies. I found it growing on me.
2 stars
Castello d'Albola
Via Pian d'Albola, 31
53017 Radda in Chianti - SI
http://www.albola.com/home.htm
Castello d'Albola Le Ellere Chianti Classico 2003
Ruby with black reflection and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is a bit overripe, with nutmeg and peppery spice mingling with plums and some red berry fruit, and underlying greenish notes. On the palate it's medium bodied, and a bit overripe, with moderate plum berry fruit supported by tannins that have a glancing cedary burr, and flow into a clean tannic finish; there isn't much acidity, and as the tannins round with time it will settle. Drink it with red meats.
1 star
Castello di Bossi
Località Bossi in Chianti
53033 Castelnuovo Berardenga
http://www.castellodibossi.it/default.htm
Castello di Bossi Chianti Classico 2003
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and more marked almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with mentholated red berry fruit supported by spice and some vanilla; the overall effect is quite airy. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by raspberry acidity and by tannins that are rather blocky right now, with a young burr as well. It's woefully young and needs time to figure out where it's going; when it does it will likely be fairly graceful, with a pleasing mixture of bright fruit and direction from deft wood. Drink it with succulent red meats, but do give it time.
2 stars
Castello di Monsanto
Via Monsanto 8
50021 Barberino Val D'Elsa
http://www.castellodimonsanto.it/
Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico 2003
Delicate almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is delicate, and lively, with bright sour red berry fruit, a mix of cherries and raspberries, supported by menthol and some balsamic overtones laced with savory sea salt. Nice balance. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright red berry fruit that does reveal a certain softness though there is also bright acidity to give it direction, while support comes from brambly tannins that lay down a long burr that continues into the finish, with bright acidic overtones. Nice, though very young, and it will drink well with succulent grilled meats or light stews, though I might give it a year to settle and get its bearings about it. Expect the bottle to go quickly, and if you like this fairly traditional style you will like it very much.
2 stars
Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva 2002
Deep almandine ruby with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with balsamic notes and sea salt mingling with hardwood ash and some animal tang. Not much fruit, and this is likely the vintage. On the palate it's full, and soft, with balsam laced sour cherry fruit supported by ample smooth tannins that have an unusual smoky savory tang that almost brings toasted cocoa to mind -- but not quite, and flow into a spicy mentholated finish with some cocoa overtones. It's a tremendous act of courage, because the vintage really didn't warrant riserve -- in my opinion -- and though it is good, it doesn't have the richness or depth that I would expect from a riserva. So, hats off to what they obtained from a difficult vintage, while scratching my head at what they called it.
2 stars
Castello di Monterinaldi
Fattoria La Pesanella
53017 Radda in Chianti
http://www.monterinaldi.it/
Castello di Monterinaldi Chianti Classico 2003
Moderately intense almandine ruby with black reflections and ruby rim. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up penetrating cedar and nutmeg mingled with sea salt and some menthol; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's fairly bright, and medium bodied, with moderate generic red berry fruit supported by considerable citric acidity, and by tannins that have a brambly burr. It feels as if the heat of the summer interfered with the ripening of the grapes, leaving the acidity to carry over the fruit. Because of it acidity it will work well with succulent grilled meats, including chicken with its skin, and also with mixed fried meats and vegetables. In the proper situation it will be perfect, but you have to like this acidic, aggressive style.
1 star
Collelungo
Località Collelungo
53011 Castellina in Chianti
http://www.collelungo.com
Collelungo Chianti Classico 2003
Deep almandine ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense and nicely balanced, with red berry fruit supported by mentholated nutmeg spice and by a fair amount of nose-tingling alcohol. Inviting, in its youth. On the palate it's medium bodied, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by brisk citric acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that do have a slightly greenish Sangiovese bur, and flow into a long finish with lasting warmth. It's pleasant, and you will like it if you like a little zest in your wine; if you instead prefer the smoothness of a Merlot give it ample berth. I'd drink it with succulent grilled meats or fatty roasts, including leg of lamb, and think it may age quite well, becoming lacy with time.
2 stars
Fattoria di Cinciano
Località Cinciano 2
53036 Poggibonsi
http://www.cinciano.it
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is a bit overripe, with cherry plum fruit that has sweet jammy overtones supported by peppery spice and some gum Arabic, with underlying coffee grounds. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly intense plum fruit that does derive direction from moderate acidity, and is supported by tannins that have an evident cedar laced burr. It's a bit heat-struck and I found it to be overripe and soft now; what will happen as the tannins smooth with time? I'd drink it with drier meats.
1 star
Fattoria di Petroio
Via di Mocenni, 7
53019 Quercegrossa
Tel 0577-328153
Fattoria di Petroio Chianti Classico 2003
Slightly orange ruby with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with sour cherry acidity and underbrush mingling with spice, a fair amount of alcoholic warmth, and underlying savory sea salt and barnyard tang. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit that gains some direction from moderate acidity, though said acidity is strongly overshadowed by an angry tannic burr that curls the tongue and leaves the teeth squeaky clean. It's a bit disjointed, and I attribute this to the heat of the summer, which overripened the grapes, forcing the tannins to step in where the might not have in a better vintage. Drink it with drier meats served with rich gravies.
1 star
Fattoria Ispoli
Via S. Lucia, 2
50024 Mercatale Val di Pesa
http://fattoriaispoli.com/
Fattoria Ispoli Chianti Classico 2003
Fairly deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up cedar mingled with alcohol and some spice. Not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with smooth soft plum cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by ample rather lax tannins; it is heat-struck and much softened thereby. Drink it with drier meats, and I would drink it now before the tannins have rounded overmuch, because then it will start to flag.
1 star
Fattoria la Ripa
P.O.Box, 1
50020 S. Donato in Poggio
http://www.laripa.it
Fattoria La Ripa Chianti Classico 2003
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is airy and delicate, with slightly mentholated bright red berry fruit, a mix of raspberries and cherries with some green blackberries, supported by lively citric acidity and some underlying spice. Quite traditional. On the palate it's bright, with lively, zesty red berry fruit supported by considerable citric acidity, and by tannins that still have a slightly greenish youthful burr. It needs a year to settle and get its bearings, at which point it will work quite well with succulent grilled meats or light stews; as it stands now its zesty aggressiveness will make it a good bet with fried meats and vegetables. If you like the style you will like it very much, but if you prefer smoother softer wines it's not for you.
2 stars
Fattoria La Ripa Chianti Classico 2000
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with smoky balsamic notes mingling with sea salt and some green leather, while there is underlying red berry fruit to hold it all together. On the palate it's full, and quite smooth, with ample slightly sour red berry fruit supported by clean smooth tannins that have slight balsamic overtones, and flow into a long clean slightly sour berry fruit finish with savory balsamic overtones. It's a pleasant expression of a difficult vintage -- August 2000 was very hot -- and will drink nicely with red meats that are succulent but not too fatty. I'd drink it now, or soon, because I don't think it will age well for too much longer.
2 stars
Azienda San Michele a Torri
Via Di San Michele 36
50018 Scandicci
http://www.fattoriasanmichele.it/
Tenuta la Gabbiola Chianti Classico 2003
Pale black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is moderately rich, with brambly menthol mingled with some sea salt; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards light, with moderately intense plum berry fruit that gains direction from some acidity, and a fair amount of alcoholic warmth, while the tannins are ample and cedar laced. It's a bit disjointed, and though this is in part youth, it's also the vintage. Drink with red meats.
1 star
I Sodi
53010 Monti in Chianti
http://www.agrisodi.com
I Sodi Chianti Classico 2003
Fairly deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is delicate, with pleasing red berry fruit supported by delicate spice and some airy peppery notes; though it's short to write it's beautifully balanced and a pleasure to sniff. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rich bright cherry fruit that gains direction from clean lemony acidity, and is supported by clean smooth tannins that have a slight youthful burr, and flow into a fairly long sour berry fruit finish. Quite deft, and though it doesn't have the depth one finds in better vintages, it is pleasant and will work well with succulent grilled meats or roasts, or with stews that aren't too heavy. I expect that it will also age nicely for 3-5 years. Worth seeking out.
2 stars
Il Colombaio di Cencio
Località Cornia
53013 Gaiole in Chianti
Tel. 0577 747 178
Il Colombaio di Cencio I Massi Chianti Classico 2003
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is smoky at first swish, with a mixture of cocoa, fruit, and underlying sweetness that brings Coca Cola to mind; this is youthful wood-wine interaction, and as the wine airs it gives way to delicate spicy berry fruit with some citric -- grapefruit more than lemon -- overtones. On the palate it's medium bodied and fairly delicate, with lively, acid-driven red berry fruit supported by full smooth tannins that flow into a fairly long grapefruit laced finish. This grapefruit is unusual, and the acidity is likely due to difficulties encountered during ripening. Because of its zesty aggressiveness it will work well with succulent grilled meats, fattier roasts, and also with fried meats or vegetables. If you like the style it has a certain grace to it, and you may want a second bottle.
2 stars
Il Molino di Grace
Località Il Volano
Panzano in Chianti
http://www.ilmolinodigrace.com
Il Molino di Grace Chianti Classico 2003
Deep black cherry ruby with almandine reflections. The bouquet is fresh, with cherry fruit mingled with violets and some ripe non-acidic red plum. Youth in a glass. On the palate it's full, and soft, with ample cherry plum fruit supported by large smooth tannins, and gains direction from some citric acidity that emerges from behind the scenes, as it were, as the fruit fades; the effect is to keep the wine from settling, and it's rather nice. Pleasant, and a nice interpretation of a difficult vintage; it will drink well with drier white meats served with succulent gravies, though I might also be tempted to press it into service with medium roast beef. I would in any case drink it now because its freshness is nice.
2 stars
La Marcellina
Via Case Sparse, 74
50020 Panzano in Chianti
http://www.lamarcellina.it
La Marcellina Comignole Chianti Classico 2003
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is shut tight; swishing brings up some acidity and brambles mingled with animal hair, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full and soft, with ample plum fruit that flows out, little fettered by acidity, though there are ample soft tannins that provide support. It is badly heat-struck, and will only get softer as the tannins fold into the wine. Drink it with drier meats, perhaps with gravy.
1 star
La Marcellina Sassocupo Chianti Classico 2003
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is shut tight, though swishing does bring up some plum mingled with peppery spice, and underlying oak leaves. On the palate it's big and soft, with moderately intense plum fruit supported by ample tannins that are distinctly splintery, and flow into a fairly long hot finish with an angry tannic burr. It's heat-struck, and as the tannins fold in with time it will only soften further. Drink it now with drier meats.
1 star
Riecine
Località Riecine
53013 Gaiole in Chianti
http://www.riecine.com/
Riecine Chianti Classico 2003
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is delicate, and rather understated, with fairly bright peppery nutmeg spice mingled with floral accents and heat; there's not much fruit. But it is pleasing to sniff. On the palate it's fuller and richer than one might have expected from the nose, with bright plum-laced cherry fruit supported by fairly lively acidity, and by tannins that have a warm cedar-laced burr, and flow into a long hot tannic finish. It is a child of the vintage, but more successful than many despite an evident overripening of the grapes, and will drink well with succulent red meats. I'm not sure how well it will age, and would therefore drink it perhaps sooner than later.
2 stars
Le Corti
Via San Piero di Sotto, 1
50026 San Casciano Val di Pesa
http://www.principecorsini.com
Le Corti Corsini Le Corti Chianti Classico 2003
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with pyrope overtones and slightly almandine ruby rim. The bouquet is shut tight; swishing doesn't bring up much of anything at first, though spice comes up with time. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly bright slightly sour red berry fruit with plum overtones that gains direction from some acidity, and is supported by tannins that have a warm cedar-laced burr. It's heat-struck and the tannins derive more from wood than grape; it'd drink it sooner than later, with drier meats.
1 star
Le Corti Corsini Don Tommaso Chianti Classico 2003
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with deep cherry rim. The bouquet is spicy, with a fair amount of warmth and alcohol bolstering jammy plum fruit; there are also underlying greenish notes. On the palate it's ample and soft, with full plum fruit that gains some direction from moderate acidity, and is supported by tannins that are clearly oak derived, and at present display an angry cedary burr. As they settle in the wine will round even more, so I think I would drink it now rather than wait, with drier meats, perhaps with rich gravies.
1 star
Podere Terreno
Via Terreno alla Volpaia, 21
53017 Radda In Chianti
http://www.podereterreno.it
Podere Terreno alla Via della Volpaia Chianti Classico 2003
Pale black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is brambly, with some spice and acidity as well, but not much fruit. On the palate it's livelier than I expected, with fairly bright cherry fruit supported by lively raspberry acidity, and by tannins that have a warm burr, and flow into a fairly long tannin-laced acidic finish. The nose is likely bottle shocked, and I expect that it will pick up with time, while the structure is pleasing in a hot vintage key; the wine will drink well with succulent meats off the grill, or fried meats, though I would give the nose a few months to recover before opening the bottle.
2 stars
Cantalici
Via della Croce 17/19
Località Castagnoli
53013 Gaiole in Chianti
http://www.cantalici.it
Cantalici Chianti Classico 2004
Barrel sample
Lively slightly cloudy ruby with ruby rim. The bouquet is pleasant, and quite young, with bright red berry fruit supported by brisk acidity and nose tingling spice. Nice for a barrel sample. On the palate it's quite pleasant, with bright cherry fruit that gains direction from lively raspberry acidity, and is supported by clean sweet tannins; it brings to mind a pretty lass crooking her finger at that special someone, and promises very well. Worth waiting for.
Cantalici Chianti Classico 2003
Elegant deep ruby with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with alcohol mingling with cedar and peppery spice; there's not much fruit, however. On the palate it's fairly rich, and also quite soft, with ample plum berry fruit that gains direction from some sour plum acidity, and is supported by ample soft tannins that move from beneath the surface. It's heats-truck, and though far overripe and much softer than I would like does muster a certain grace, and will drink well with drier meats. I wouldn't keep it around for long, however, because it will soften further with time.
2 stars
Rocca di Castagnoli
Località Castagnoli
53013 Gaiole in Chianti
http://www.roccadicastagnoli.com
Rocca di Castagnoli Chianti Classico 2003
Deep almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is cooked, with jammy cherry plum fruit supported by a fair amount of alcohol with some chalky menthol notes. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with full cherry plum fruit supported by full rather lax tannins; the grapes obviously suffered the heat of the summer, and the wine will work best with drier meats. I wouldn't hold it too long.
1 star
Rocca di Montegrossi
Località San Marcellino
53010 Monti in Chianti
Tel. 0577 747 977
Rocca di Montegrossi Chianti Classico 2003
Deep almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with bright red berry fruit supported by mentholated overtones and some wood. On the palate it's fairly rich, with moderately intense fairly acidic red berry fruit supported by clean spicy tannins that have a slight burr to them, and flow into a clean brambly finish. Though it's clearly the child of a difficult vintage it displays considerable grace, and will drink nicely with succulent grilled meats or roasts, and will age nicely for a few years, though I wouldn't keep it for too long.
2 stars
Rocca di Montegrossi Vigneto San Marcellino Chianti Classico 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is warm, and rich, with powerful forest berry fruit balanced by deft acidity and by clean cedar that supports without getting in the way. It has a lot to say, though it is also still quite young, and obviously climbing. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful cherry and forest berry fruit that gains direction from deft cherry acidity, and is supported by tannins that are smooth and soft on the outset, but also reveal a youthful burr that will with time -- another year or two -- smooth over nicely. Quite nice, and though it will now drink very well with succulent red meats, for example leg of lamb or a thick steak, it will also richly reward those with the patience to set it aside for another 2-3 years, or perhaps more. Well worth seeking out.
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