A Discovery, and Something I already Knew About

One of the nicest things to do at Vinitaly is wander about and stop when something catches the eye, for example a colleague waving from the Carpenè Malvolti stand:

Turns out that they have been working with Kerner, a varietal developed in 1969 by August Herold, who crossed Reisling Renano and Schiava in the Weinsberg/Württemberg National Teaching and Research Institute in Germany, and dedicated the result to Justinius Kerner, a local physician and poet.

Kerner, which is considered to be an Austrian varietal, does very well in high mountain areas, and was introduced into the Alto Adige in the 70s, where it adapted to its new surroundings well enough that it was included in the list of varietals allowed in the Valle Isarco (or Südtirol Eisacktaler) DOC established in 1993.

Carpenè Malvolti, which has long bought grapes in the Alto Adige, decided to see how it would work as a sparkling wine, and presented the results this year at Vinitaly. I was impressed.

Kerner Carpenè Vino Spumante Brut
It's a 2005, Lot 060831/K
It's pale papery white with fine persistent perlage, and has a rich, elegant bouquet with bright floral accents and hints of honeydew melon mingled with some sweetness. Very pleasant. On the palate it's rich, and full, with bright rose petal-laced white berry fruit that gains definition from underlying minerality; despite the brut on the label I found it to be fairly sweet, with this sweetness conferring additional roundness under the peppery notes from the sparkle; the finish is crisp, with green apple accents.

It's engaging, and will work quite well as an aperitif or simply with friends. It will also work nicely with foods, for example delicate firm cheeses or fish, including crustaceans, though I don't think it's quite crisp enough to work with richer, fattier fare along the lines of a risotto. In short, a very pleasant discovery.
91

After the discovery, something I've had before:

Carpenè Malvolti Rosè Cuvée Brut
This is a 2005, lot 06079-5/R

Pale rose pink with fine persistent white perlage that rings the glass. The bouquet is quite fresh, with delicate rose petals laced with raspberry and sweet strawberry acidity, which gains depth with a gentle swish. Quite nice. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful rose laced raspberry fruit supported by delicate raspberry acidity that carries into a long clean raspberry finish.

Quite nice, a wine that will work very well as an aperitif or far from the table, and will be perfect for a romantic occasion. Well worth seeking out.
90

Chianti da Scoprire e Non Solo...

Last year the folks at Casa Frassi, a dynamic winery not far from Castellina in Chianti, organized a tasting dedicated to inexpensive Chianti Classico, and the conference at the end of the tasting caused a considerable stir, because Giovanni Ricasoli, who was then President of the Chianti Classico Consorzio, said that one of the biggest problems facing the Italian wine market was overpricing -- both on the part of some wineries, and as a result of some restaurant owners's habit of substantially marking up the wines they served, for example asking 25 Euros for a bottle they paid the winery 5 for.

As Giovanni pointed out, these sorts of markups stifle the sector, because consumers won't buy more than one bottle, and as a result the wine sits in the restaurant, and no more comes down the pipeline from the winery. Much better, Giovanni said, to mark the wines up less, and sell more wine, which would be a win-win situation for both restaurant and winery.

As one might expect, many restaurant owners howled at being called price gougers, and the debate was fast and furious. But didn't lead too far, to judge from the end-of tasting conference this year, which covered the same ground, albeit without Giovanni Ricasoli's contribution -- others were there in his stead, and said pretty much the same things.

Of course one doesn't go to a wine tasting for the end-of-tasting panel discussion (at least I don't) -- what interested me were the wines, and this year the organizers did things a bit differently. Rather than concentrate exclusively on Chianti Classico producers who don't overprice their wines, they decided to cover all of the province of Siena, with wineries from Chianti Classico, San Gimignano, Montepulciano, and Montalcino. Again, one of the criteria for admission to the show was reasonable pricing, though in the case of Montepulciano and Montalcino resonable doesn't necessarily mean inexpensive.

There were a few too many for me to do in one day, so I began with the Montalcino section, and worked around the tasting hall, finishing up with a few wineries from San Gimignano. I didn't get to Montepulciano -- given my impressions of the 2003 vintage at the Anteprima in February, I chose to concentrate on the other Denominations present.

The wines, tasted March 18 2006:

BRUNELLO PRODUCERS

Podere la Fornace
Località Podere La Fornace
53024 Montalcino (SI)

Podere La Fornace Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Barrel sample
Fairly deep purple brick ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly direct, and vinous, with red berry fruit supported by brambly notes and some spice. Simple, but not bad for a barrel sample. On the palate it's fairly bright, with sour cherry fruit that has slight quinine bitterness and is supported by ample slightly greenish tannins that flow into a clean rather bitter brambly finish. It will drink well with hearty pasta dishes, succulent red meats off the grill, or light stews. I would drink it now, within a year or two.
1 star

Podere La Fornace Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Fairly delicate black almandine with some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is still quite young, with jammy berry fruit supported by some acidity and some nutmeg-laced spice. It's still developing. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards full, with fairly rich slightly sweet berry fruit that has some underlying butterscotch notes that are youth; the wood needs another year at least to work its way into the weave of the wine. In terms of tannins, they're full and tightly woven, and lead into a clean fairly bitter finish. A babe that needs time, and will develop nicely in a middle of the road key.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Le Chiuse
Località Pullera 228
53024 Montalcino (SI)

Azienda Agricola Le Chiuse Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Deep black cherry with black reflections and white rim. I found the bouquet to be off at the vintage presentation in Montalcino, and it was no different here, alas. Something may have happened to the lot.

The Brunello was a very different story, and they had a couple of older vintages; for completeness's sake I have copied my notes for the 2001 Brunello from my Brunello tasting notes.

Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, in a mature key, with polished leather and raw beef mingled with leaf tobacco and slight balsamic notes supported by some cedar, and hints of dried plum. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful slightly balsamic cherry plum fruit that gains direction from deft berry mineral-berry fruit acidity, and is supported by broad sweet smooth tannins that flow into a long clean slightly sour berry fruit finish. Quite elegant, and will drink nicely now with succulent red meats, though it will also do very interesting things if you have the patience to allow it to age. Worth seeking out if you like the fairly traditional style, and perhaps even if you don't.
90

Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino 2000
Delicate almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, and a little wild, with balsamic notes mingled with green leather and savory leaf tobacco, with underlying peppery spice from grapes and some hints of dried flowers, while delicate red berry fruit works from underneath it all to tie it together. Elegant in a decidedly traditional key. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful cherry fruit that gains direction from deft sour cherry acidity that also has some raspberry notes, and is supported by ample smooth tannins that aren't as tight as they might have been in a better vintage, but that don't reveal the heat as much as many other 2000 Brunelli do, and flow into a long clean fruit laced finish with tannic underpinning. Elegant, and though it will improve from another 3-5 years cellaring, it will drink well now with succulent red meats. A steak, in particular. Worth seeking out if you like this style.
2 stars

Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1999
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with deft slightly jammy red berry fruit, a mixture of cherries and currants with a little raspberry acidity to give direction, and underlying savory spice. Much younger than the 2000, or, for that matter, the 2001. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful cherry fruit that gains direction from deft acidity, and is supported by full tightly woven tannins that have a slight youthful burr, and flow into a long berry fruit finish that again gains definition from a combination of tannic underpinning and bitterness. Quite elegant, and though it is a child now it will be gorgeous by the time it reaches adulthood. If you must, drink it with a thick porterhouse cut, or stewed game now, though it will reward you if you have patience. Expect it to age well for 10-15 years.
92

Azienda Agricola Fossacolle
Località Tavernelle, 7
53024 Montalcino (SI)

Fossacolle Rosso di Montlacino 2004
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright and brambly with a fair amount of acidity that is supported by sour lemon-laced cherry fruit and some greenish vegetal notes. Scrappy, in a word. On the palate it's light, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a greenish splintery burr and lead into a moderately long bitter tannic finish. It's quite direct, and will drink well with meats off the grill, or hearty pasta dishes, and could be pressed into service with a platter of fried meats and vegetables as well. Versatile, and the bottle will go quickly.
2 stars

Fossacolle Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Fairly dark almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense in a traditional key, with leaf tobacco and saddle leather mingling with spice and hints of nutmeg, while it is all held together by deft red berry fruit that gains further grace from some dried flowers. Classic. On the palate it's not quite as full as I'd have expected, with fairly intense cherry fruit that has been to a degree dried out, supported by bitter tannins that have some quinine notes and are fairly splintery, and it flows into a fairly long bitter finish tannic finish. I'd have liked more fruit; to be frank it falls a bit short, and at present the tannins are showing their splintery side. They will smooth with time, and it will become lacy in an ethereal key, but in the meantime it's unsettled. If you like the rather distant ethereal traditional style you will like it, but you'll have to give it at least 5 years to get its bearings.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Uccelliera
Podere Uccelliera 45
Castelnuovo dell'Abate
53020 Montalcino (SI)

Uccelliera Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Deep pigeon blood ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is closed at first swish, though more brings out deft red berry fruit supported by pleasing slightly brambly spice. Quite young, but engaging. On the palate it's full, with bright cherry fruit that gains direction from raspberry acidity, and is supported by ample sweet tannins that flow into along bright berry fruit finish. Quite direct, and pleasant too; it will work very well with succulent grilled meats, including fattier fare such as sausages or chicken with its skin, and also with light stews. Expect the bottle to go quickly.
2 stars

Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Fairly deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim tending towards orange. The bouquet is bright, with leaf tobacco and green leather mingling with berry fruit and bright acidity, with underlying slightly peppery spice. Nice balance and quite engaging, though it is also very young and obviously has a ways to go. On the palate it's full, rich, and again young, with bright berry fruit that gains direction from some brambly acidity, and is supported by tannins that are still very young, and reveal some bitter cocoa notes from wood that have yet to fold into the wine. Pleasant in a fairly international key but still a babe; it needs a couple of years to get its bearings, at which point it will drink well with succulent red meats -- either roasts, off the grill, or stews. Give it the time it needs, and if you like the style it's worth seeking out.
2 stars

Uccelliera Rapace IGT Toscana 2003
This is a blend of 70% Sangiovese, 20% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon; it's impenetrable black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with a blend of jammy Sangiovese violet cherry and Merlot black currant that has a languid feel to it, but is kept from settling by a bright vegetal contribution from the Cabernet. Nicely balanced, and there's also some underlying cedar to tie things together. On the palate it's full and soft, with ample cherry and black currant fruit that gains definition from some warm bell pepper vegetal notes -- the Cabernet acts like a cop, keeping the others in line -- supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long clean fruit laced finish. Casting PC aside it brings to mind a pretty girl who's winking and giving a come hither look; it's quite approachable -- the Italian word would be ruffiano -- and though I would now drink it with succulent, not too fatty red meats -- thickly cut roast beef not too rare comes to mind -- it is also a wine you may want to drink with friends far from the table when you want to enjoy a glass but not focus on it to the exclusion of all else. If you like the international style, you will like it very much.
2 stars

Azienda Agrario Conti Costanti
Colle al Matrichese
53024 Montalcino (SI)

Conti Costanti Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Deep almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, and vinous, with brambly red berry fruit supported by nutmeg spice from grapes and by slight grassy notes that add character. On the palate it's medium bodied and bright, with lively red berry fruit that gains direction from peppery raspberry spice, and is supported by ample sweet tannins that have a slight burr to them, and flow into a long clean berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant, and while it will contribute considerably to a dish of pasta with a rich sauce, I'd be more tempted to serve it with grilled meats, the classic Tuscan grigliata mista with everything from filet to spare ribs, and might be tempted to break it out with fried meats as well. Well worth seeking out, and expect to need a second bottle.
2 stars

Conti Costanti Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is quite young and wound tight, with some red berry fruit mingled with slight cedar and some cocoa and coffee ground bitterness; it's a toddler who needs time to grow. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful red cherry fruit supported by clean sour cherry acidity, and by ample smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long fruit laced finish. Here too it's young, but its youth isn't quite as evident. I would buy it and set it aside, because though nice now it's a foreshadowing of what it will be 8-10 years down the road. Well worth seeking out.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Tenuta Montluc
Località Polo
53024 Montalcino (SI)

Montluc Rosso di Montlacino 2004
Bright cherry ruby with pale pink rim. The bouquet is lively, with quite a bit of spice and some nose tingling acidity, and underlying red berry fruit. Direct. On the palate it's fairly full, with bright cherry fruit supported by deft acidity and by tannins that have a slight cedary burr and flow into a long warm tannic finish with a fair amount of acidity. The vines come across as a bit young, and indeed are, as I discover from talking to the winemaker; my impression is that the winery will bear watching because quite interesting things could come when the vines are more mature. Returning to this wine, it's pleasant enough in a direct scrappy key, and will drink well with grilled meats, including fattier cuts, or light stews.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Tassi
Viale Pietro Strozzi 1/3
53024 Montalcino (SI)

Tassi Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is quite bright considering that it's a barrel sample, with slightly mentholated cherry and raspberry fruit supported by deft raspberry acidity. On the palate it's medium bodied and deft, with bright cherry fruit supported by tannins that display a warm cedar overlay and flow into a warm finish. It's very much a work in progress, but promising, and will drink nicely with grilled red meats or light stews.

Tassi Aqua Bona
This is a bland of Cabernet, Sangiovese, Petit Verdot and some Merlot; it's impenetrable pyrope with almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with forest berry fruit supported by peppery spice and graphite shavings with underlying cedar, and some mentholated notes that add coolness. Pleasant in a young international key. On the palate it's full, and quite soft, with ample fresh red berry fruit supported by some greenish vegetal notes and deft underlying cedar that flows into a long warm bitter finish. Quite international in style, and smooth, though also very young; if you like the style it will drink well with drier meats and dishes that aren't too rich.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Fuligni
Via Saloni 33
53024 Montalcino (SI)
Tel. 0577 848 039

Fuligni Ginestreto Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Lively black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense and a little wild, with underbrush laced with menthol ad supported by lively acidity, while there is also an undercurrent of lathered horse; there's not much fruit, but it is harmonious. On the palate it's full and deft, with warm balsamic red berry fruit supported by lively balsamic acidity and by tannins that are ample and fairly soft, and flow into a long clean balsamic finish with some underlying bitterness. It's quite traditional, and if you like the studied smoothness and roundness of the more modern style it won't work for you, but if you do like this style it has quite a bit of character and will drink well with grilled meats, or with light stews. Indeed, it will drink very well, and you may need a second bottle.
2 stars

Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino 2000
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is warm, and slightly balsamic, with soft red berry fruit supported by balsamic acidity and some mentholated acidity; it gives an impression of laxness that is fairly typical of the 2000 Brunelli. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense jammy cherry plum fruit supported by warmth and by ample smooth tannins that work from below the surface to provide direction; it's laxer and softer than I prefer my Brunello to be, but this is the vintage at work. They did as well as can be expected considering the searing heat of August 2000. I would drink it sooner than later, because with time it will flag.
1 star

Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is much richer than the 2000's, with powerful berry fruit supported by menthol and nutmeg spice, with some hints of cedar as well. Quite young, and it obviously has a ways to go though it's headed in the right direction. On the palate it's full, with bright cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and a fair amount of cedar-laced bitterness that flows into a fairly long savory finish with peppery overtones. The fruit's a little bit drier than I might have liked, but the wine is also very much in mid stride, and as the anger of the tannins settles the fruit will emerge, likely in a decidedly traditional ethereal key. It's really to young to be judged, and I would give it time because at present it is going in several directions at once. If put with my shoulders to the wall, however, I would say that it will be quite elegant in a traditional key.

Fuligni SJ Rosso di Toscana IGT 2004
This is a blend of Sangiovese, with 20% Merlot; it's impenetrable pyrope ruby with some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with warm red berry fruit and some cedar mingled with greenish vegetal notes and some spice; also a fair amount of alcoholic warmth and some chalk. On the palate it's fairly full, with moderately intense greenish fruit that has vegetal overtones and is supported by fairly angry tannins that have a lively greenish burr to them, and flow into a long fairly bitter finish. I found it disjointed, and would never have guessed it had Merlot had I not been told it was here. (check this). Rather Cabernet from immature vines.
1 star

Baricci
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel: 0577848109

Baricci Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Lively black cherry ruby with some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is bright, and fairly vegetal, with greenish notes mingling with spice and red berry fruit while there is some underlying gum Arabic as well. On the palate it's fresh, with bright cherry fruit that has slight jammy overtones and gains direction from lively cherry acidity, while the tannic structure is clean and deft, with slight splintery overtones that flow into a moderately long finish. Pleasant in a middle of the road key, and will drink well with succulent red meats off the grill, or light stews, and could also be pressed into service with a platter of fried meats in summer. Direct, and if you like this slightly scrappy up front style you will like it.
1 star

Baricci Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is a bit unusual, with slightly balsamic notes mingled with berry fruit; the combination brings to mind very ripe pineapple, which I don't usually associate with red wines, and there's also menthol and some spice. On the palate it's full, rich, and fairly languid, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by ample tannins that have a warm youthful burr, and by moderate acidity that flows into a fairly long bitter finish. I'd have liked greater depth; the fruit isn't quite as rich as I'd have expected given my experience with the vintage.
1 star

CHIANTI CLASSICO PRODUCERS

Azienda Agricola Casa Frassi
Località Casafrassi
53011 Castellina in Chianti (SI)

Casa Frassi Chianti Classico MMIII 2003
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fresh, and a little unusual, with red berry fruit mingled with hints of menthol and berry fruit jam; the combination makes me think of cotton candy somehow. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful jammy cherry plum fruit supported by deft acidity, and by tannins that are ample and sweet and flow into a bright berry fruit finish with mentholated overtones. It is the product of a hot vintage, but much less obviously than many other 2003 Chianti Classicos I have tasted, and will drink well with succulent red meats or light stews.
2 stars

Chianti Classico MMIII Riserva 2003
Deeper ruby than the basic Chianti Classico, though the rim remains almandine. The bouquet is more charged, with quite a bit of cedar mingling with some bitter notes, and chemical overtones. There isn't much in the way of fruit. The palate reflects the nose; it's ample and soft with moderate red berry fruit supported by large smooth tannins that owe much of their substance to wood; by comparison with other 2003 Riservas I've tasted the fruit isn't as far veered into plum, but it has a lax softness to it that is clearly an effect of the heat.
1 star

Fattoria Le Pici
Località Le Pici
53010 San Gusmè
Tel. 0577 359 081

Le Pici Chianti Classico 2003
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with bright berry fruit and fairly deft cedar overtones, with some slightly medicinal notes as well. The wood is a strong participant. On the palate it's fairly full, and soft, with ample plum-laced fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and flows into a dry finish; it's very much a creature of the vintage, and will drink well with drier meats. I'll be curious to taste better vintages.
1 star

Vigna del Boschetto Vino da Tavola
This is a 2003 (by law, Vini da Tavola cannot specify a vintage), and is made with Sangiovese, 10% white grapes, and no small wood. It's paler black ruby with more almandine in the rim, and has a bright, slightly jammy red berry fruit bouquet that gains life and direction from the pungency of cut flowers and zesty mentholated acidity. Pleasant and invites further swishing. On the palate it's light, with bright berry fruit supported by slightly greenish notes and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long brambly finish with lasting warmth. Fun, and lively; it hasn't the slightest pretension, and will drink very well with simple grilled meats or even fried foods. Expect the bottle to go quickly and people to clamor for more.
2 stars

Podere Terreno alla Via della Volpaia
Strada di Volpaia
53017 Radda in Chianti (SI)

Podere Terreno alla Via della Volpaia Chianti Classico 2003
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, and rather jammy, with red berry fruit mingled with brambles; the overall effect is fairly charged. On the palate it's brighter than I'd have expected, and lighter on its feet too, with fairly full cherry fruit bolstered by sour cherry acidity and some lemony notes, and supported by ample smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long citric finish. It gives an impression of being from a cooler vintage than many 2003 Chianti Classicos, and this is because they're fairly high on a hill; though it isn't tremendously complex, and doesn't display great depth, it has a certain scrappy charm about it, like a tomboy who's all elbows and knees, and it will drink well with simple grilled meats, lights stews, and also with mixed fried meats and vegetables. If you like this fairly aggressive style, you may want a second bottle.
2 stars

Podere Terreno alla Via della Volpaia Chianti Classico 2001 Riserva
Deep black cherry ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with spice and menthol mingling with airiness and underlying red berry fruit. On the palate it's full, with moderately rich cherry fruit that has slight jammy overtones and gains direction from some sour cherry acidity, while the tannins are quite young, and have a slight burr to them that carries through into a cherry laced slightly bitter finish. Pleasant in a fairly traditional key, and needs another year or two to get its bearings about it; it will drink well with roasts or stews that aren't too fatty. Expect it to age well for another 8-10 years, becoming lacy with time.
2 stars

Fattoria di Lornano
Località Lornano
53035 Monteriggioni (SI)

Fattoria di Lornano Chianti Classico 2003
Black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is unusual and surprisingly young, with violets mingled with cut flowers -- irises, mostly -- and some balsamic notes, with underlying graphite and cedar shavings. Not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with ample fairly lax soft cherry fruit that does gain definition from some sour berry fruit acidity, and is supported by ample smooth tannins that have a slight cedary veneer, and flow into a long cedar laced finish. It's very much a child of the vintage, and is a bit heat struck; this said, it will drink well with simple grilled meats and the like.
1 star

Fattoria di Lornano Chianti Classico Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with savory sea salt and some cedar mingled with brambly chemical notes and some acidity. Not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderate fruit supported by some acidity, and by splintery tannins that are laced with India ink bitterness, and flow into a long bitter finish. I'd have liked greater richness of fruit than I found, and to be frank I expect more from a Riserva.
1 star

Commendator Enrico Toscana IGT 2001
This is a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot; it's impenetrable pyrope with purple rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense, with some black currant fruit overshadowed by cedar and distinctly vegetal notes, and some underlying pungency; it comes across as angry, rather than welcoming, and this is likely because it is still digesting the wood it has. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense forest berry fruit that is rapidly overtaken by cedar laced bitterness from wood, which continues, blazing a trail into the finish, which is long and cedar laced with considerable bitterness. Too much wood for my liking, and it overshadows the fruit.
1 star

Azienda Agricola La Ripa
Casella Postlae 20
50020 San Donato in Poggio (SI)

Fattoria La Ripa San Giorgio delle Rose Rosso delle Colline della Toscana Centrale IGT 2003
Fairly deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy red berry fruit supported by some bright acidity and by some brambly notes. Appealing. On the palate it's light, with deft red berry fruit that gains direction from some sour cherry acidity, and is supported by light tannins that lead into a clean slightly bitter finish. Pleasant in a very direct, rather brash key, a wine that will work well with simple foods -- it would be ideal on a picnic or with an out door grill -- and that will go quite quickly. Worth seeking out if you like the style, and if you do you will want several bottles.
1 star

Fattoria La Ripa Chianti Classico 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is warm, with brambly berry fruit that has some jammy overtones supported by some balsam and slightly greenish spice. It gives an impression of warmth. On the palate it's full, and round, with ample cherry plum fruit supported by full soft tannins that gain direction from some sour slightly balsamic acidity, and flow into a fairly long slightly balsamic finish. It has the softness one often finds in 2003 but isn't quite as sedate as many other wines, thanks to the acidity, which comes through; this said I would drink it now with simple grilled meats or light stews, because I don't think it will age for long.
1 star

Fattoria La Ripa Chianti Classico Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and cherry rim shifting into almandine. The bouquet has fairly dry red berry fruit supported by cedar and iodine with considerable underlying brambly acidity On the palate it's full and deft, with fairly rich cherry fruit that gains direction from moderate acidity, and is supported by tannins that have considerable India graphite shaving bitterness, and flows into a long clean tannic finish. It's not a wine I would drink far from the table, but it will contribute nicely to a meal built around a succulent porterhouse cut; in terms of preferences, if you like traditional fairly austere Chianti you will like it. If you instead prefer a softer more fruit driven wine, it is not as good a choice. In any case, expect it to age nicely for a decade or more, becoming lacy and ethereal with time.
2 stars

Fattoria La Ripa Santa Brigida Rosso delle Colline della Toscana Centrale IGT 2000
A blend of Sangiovese and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon; it's deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with warmth and some vegetal notes mingled with bell pepper and considerable graphite shavings, with underlying warmth that holds it all together. Nicely balanced. On the palate it's full, and rich, with fairly bright slightly balsamic red berry fruit that has warm savory stewed pepper overtones and is supported by ample tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a long clean rather vegetal finish. It does reflect the heat of August 2000, though to a lesser degree than many 2000 wines I have tasted, and will drink well with succulent red meats. You have to enjoy a more traditional style to like it -- it's far removed from a smooth fruit driven Merlot -- but if you like the style it is quite nice and will drink well for at least another 3-5 years.
2 stars

Fattoria La Ripa Santa Brigida Vinasnto 1992
This is quite different from most vinsanti; it's dry, and if you're used to sweet vinsanti it does require a shift of gears. It's pale golden with lemon tallow reflections and whitens to the rim. The bouquet is bright, with considerable alcohol mingled with citrus and green almond skins, with some underlying walnut skin bitterness as well. On the palate it's full, and sweeter than it is in many years, though by vinsanto standards it's dry; it's warm, with bitter almond and walnut meats supported by some sweetness, and by lively citric acidity that mingles with warmth and carries though into a very long warm finish, while the nuts gradually fade, and with time only walnut skin remains. It's elegant, with considerable depth, and if you like drier rich wines -- it in a way brings a Marsala to mind -- you will like it very much. But you do have to like the style.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Le Fioraie
Località Fioraie 2
53011 Castellina in Chianti (SI)

Le Fioraie Chianti Classico 2003
Almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit and some sea salt mingling with hints of leaf tobacco and menthol. Pleasant, and a fair amount going on in a traditional key. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly intense red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by ample sweet tannins that have a slight splintery burr, and flow into a clean fruit laced slightly bitter finish. It's deft, in a fairly traditional key, and will drink quite well with foods, though I'm not sure I would age it for very long because though it isn't as soft or as overripe as many 2003 wines, it did feel the effects of the summer heat. Expect the bottle to go quickly, and if you like the style you may want another.
2 stars

Le Fioraie Chianti Classico 2000 Riserva
Almandine with slightly brownish reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with warm balsamic fruit laced with some greenish notes and balsamic acidity, and some greenish notes as well. On the palate it's full, with ample rather balsamic berry fruit that gains direction from decidedly salty acidity, and is supported by ample slightly splintery tannins that flow into a long warm finish. It's very traditional in feel, and though the summer heat does emerge it doesn't have the softness many of the 2000 Chianti Classicos displayed; if you like the traditional style it will drink well with succulent red meats, though I wouldn't hold onto it for too long because it is more linear than full.
2 stars

Le Fioraie Piemaggio Rosso di Toscana IGT 2000
This is a blend of 65% Sangiovese, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Merlot; it's fairly deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with spice mingling with bell pepper vegetal notes and some red berry fruit, in particular black currants. On the palate it's full, with powerful red berry fruit, a mixture of cherries and black currants with some blackberries for good measure, supported by ample tannins that combine the smoothness of Merlot with the backbone of the Cabernet Sauvignon, while the Sangiovese provided the underpinning, and it all flows into a fairly long bitter tannic finish. Pleasant in a not-quite international key; the tannins are a little too rough to be international, but it will drink well with succulent red meats. I await a better vintage, because in a more balanced year it will be quite interesting.
2 stars

VERNACCIA DI SAN GIMIGNANO PRODUCERS

Azienda Agricola Cesani
Località Pancole, 82 d
53037 San Gimignano (SI)

Cesani Pancole Vernaccia di San Gimignano 2004
Pale brassy yellow with lemony reflections and white rim. The bouquet is quite powerful, with lively citrus that has substantial gunflint mingling with bitter almond blossoms and some savory overtones, with quite a bit of alcohol as well. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful citric fruit supported by fairly intense lemony acidity that has some dried apricot overtones, and flows into a long citric finish. To be frank, it's a little looser than I had expected -- there's a touch of sweetness in the initial attack -- and I found myself thinking I might have liked greater crispness. It will in any case drink well as an aperitif with fish or cheese based antipasti, and also has the wherewithal to work well with white meats.
1 star

Cesani Sanice Vernaccia di San Gimignano 2003
Fairly deep lemon yellow with brassy reflections and pale lemon rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with citric notes and some very ripe pineapple mingled with moderate vegetal acidity. On the palate it's full and quite smooth, with powerful pineapple citric fruit supported by clean pineapple acidity that flows into a fairly long finish. It's a bit soft, and this is an effect of the vintage. It will in any case drink well with hearty fish dishes or delicately cooked white meats, especially in cream sauces.
1 star

Cesani Luenzo IGT Rosso 2002
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with brambles and underbrush mingled with dried sticks and faint hints of chalk and sea salt and underbrush. On the palate it's fairly thin, with lively acidic berry fruit supported by fairly sweet tannins that flow into a clean tannic finish. Quite drinkable, though not a wine to lay down for posterity. Enjoy it with succulent red meats that aren't too rich.
1 star

Cellori San Gimignano DOC Rosso 2002
Impenetrable pyrope to the rim: Poured ink. The bouquet is powerful, and a bit unusual, with spice -- a mixture of pepper and something airy mingled with India ink, menthol, and cedar -- that makes me think of darkened shadows at night. No fruit, really. On the palate it's full, with the same mixture of cedar and menthol with some bitter notes, and very little fruit. I wonder what they did to counteract the vagaries of the bad 2002 vintage, because I've never encountered a wine like this before. No score.

Azienda Agricola Le Calcinaie
Località Santa Lucia 36
53037 San Gimignano
Tel. 0577 943 007

Tenuta Calcinaie Vernaccia di San Gimignano 2004
Pale brassy yellow with slight greenish highlights. The bouquet is powerful, with greenish almond blossoms mingled with bright lemony fruit and some heather. Pleasant and engaging. On the palate it's full, with pleasant white fruit, a lemon mingled with hints of honeydew melon and slight savory notes, and underlying almond, supported by deft citric acidity that flows into a long clean slightly bitter finish. Pleasant, and will drink nicely as an aperitif with fish, cheese, or even meat based antipasti, and also will work well with (in addition to the standard fish one associates with white wines) with white meats in cream sauces, and eggy or cheese based dishes. Quite versatile, and you may want a second bottle.
2 stars

Tenuta Calcinaie Simone Santini Vigna ai Sassi Vernaccia di San Gimignano 2003
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and some greenish notes on the rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with an alcoholic fullness underlain by some bitter almond and moderate citrus. On the palate it's fairly direct and full, with a degree of sweetness as well; there's generic white berry fruit supported by fairly deft acidity that continues at length, but the overall impression is somewhat overblown -- the heat of the vintage has sapped the deftness of the wine.
1 star

Tenuta Calcinaie Chianti Colli Sensi 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, and brambly, with a fair amount of deft acidity supporting violets and red berry fruit, with some underlying graphite shaving bitterness. On the palate it's again light and lively, with bright direct berry fruit that gains direction from some sour cherry acidity, and is supported by moderately intense smooth tannins that flow into a clean fairly acidic finish. Very direct, a wine that has no pretensions and that people will simply drink with their food; if you're the guest at the meal -- a cookout would be ideal -- you'll be happy, but if you're the host you may regret needing to put out so many bottles.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Il Lebbio
Località San Benedetto 11/C
53037 San Gimignano (SI)

Il Lebbio Tropìe Vernaccia di San Gimignano 2004
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with ripe apricots mingled with sprigs of mint and some bitter almonds, and underlying sweetness. On the palate it's zestier than I might have expected from the nose, with bright lemony fruit that's shot through with gunflint bitterness and savory notes, and supported by bright mineral acidity that flows into a long clean mineral finish. Pleasant, and will drink well as an aperitif, or with rich creamy dishes that will benefit from the wine's acidity.
2 stars

Il Lebbio Vernaccia di San Gimignano 2005
Pale papery white with slight greenish reflections. The bouquet is fresh, and young, with some bitter almond mingled with almond skin and slight honeydew melon. Fresh. On the palate it's light, and quite zesty, with bright citric/mineral acidity supported by slight honeydew melon, and flowing into a warm zesty mineral acid finish. It's quite linear -- little but the acidity on the palate, and it dominates on the nose as well. In short, direct, and I'd be tempted to drink it with fried fish, or perhaps even fried chicken, which I find to clash with the tannins of red wines. You have to like light, spritzy wines to like it.
1 star

2003 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

Vino Nobile has come through two very difficult vintages: 2002 was one of the wettest, and coldest summers in recent memory, and by all rights they should have gotten a break in 2003. Instead they got one of the hottest, driest summers in decades: Daytime temperatures climbed up into the 90s (F, high 30s C) by mid-May and stayed that way until mid-September, while it hardly rained at all.

Areas where the vineyards are surrounded by higher mountains that can generate cooling night-time breezes at least got some respite from the scorching days (the Chianti Rufina area, for example), but Montepulcianto doesn't enjoy this luxury -- the vineyards may be at comfortable elevations, but there are no nearby highlands to generate the cooling breezes, and as a result temperature excursions were reduced; this has a negative impact upon bouquets.

More importantly, however, the high temperatures hastened ripening, while the extreme drought stressed the vines in many of the vineyards. This is a dreadful combination; grapes that ripen too quickly don't have time to accumulate the volume of complexity-providing compounds they would accumulate in a normal year, while vines that are heat-stressed can simply stop producing the polyphenoloc compounds responsible for color and structure, while continuing to accumulate sugar.
Quite a bit of sugar, and as a result the wines of a summer like 2003 tend to be quite alcoholic. What else they display depends upon how the vineyard reacted to the heat. If the vines overcame the drought (older vines with deeper, better developed root structures are better at resisting doubts than young vines, which may require irrigation to survive); the fruit tends to be ample and very ripe to overripe, with jammy to cooked nuances (with careful leaf management the winemaker can shade the grapes, and thus protect them some from the heat, but there's only so much one can do) and ample, very soft tannins. If the vines instead suffered the drought and the grapes stopped ripening, the tannins tend to be green and rather shrill, and as a result so does the wine, which comes across as badly unbalanced.

To be frank I don't envy a winemaker faced with a vintage like 2003 -- Andreas März says "a lot of tears were shed" -- and the temptation to do something in the cellar must have been overpowering. Concentrate, to attempt to coax something more from the stinginess of the fruit (while removing some alcohol, perhaps), use small oak to attempt to balance the astringent greenness of the unripe tannins, anything. I had the impression that the producers of Nobile di Montepulciano tried everything, with varying degrees of success.

And what does this mean for the consumer? First of all, the 2003 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is not a vintage to lay down for posterity. Few if any of the wines poured at the vintage presentation in February 2006 will improve significantly with time, and many will fade. Therefore, it's a wine to be drunk now. It's also a wine to approach with caution; while one of the truisms of the wine industry says that in some vintages anyone can make a good wine, another says that faced with adversity the best will emerge. And that's what happened here; though I found most of the wines to be weak, a few did buck the trend and will be pleasant to drink over the fairly short term.

The Wines, Tasted February 23 2006:

Avignonesi S.P.A.
Fattoria le Capezzine 53040
Valiano di Montepulcinao (SI)
Tel: 0578 724304 - Fax: 0578 724308

Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with a rush of brandied plums mingled with menthol and savory balsamic notes that gain in intensity with time, underlain by some graphite shavings. On the palate it's big and soft, with ample cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that though large play second fiddle to the fruit, and flow into a clean fruit laced finish that gains definition from some citric acidity. It's big, and soft, but holds together nicely, and if you like big soft wines it will be a good bet. I would drink it sooner than later.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Casale
Via di Nottola, 9
53040 Montepulciano Stazione
Tel: 0578 738257 - Fax: 0578 738257

Casale Daviddi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is ample and soft, with nutmeg spice, acidity, and some underlying cedar; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with more fruit that one might have expected from the nose, overripe cherry plum, supported by soft smooth tannins that flow into an unusual, slightly disquieting finish with licorice overtones. It's big, soft, and heatstruck and I would drink it with drier white meats.
1 star

Casale Daviddi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is deft, and nicely balanced, with fairly rich red berry fruit -- cherries and some black currants -- supported by pleasing nutmeg laced spice. Quite a bit going on, in a deft way. On the palate it's full and bright, with fairly intense slightly sour cherry and forest berry fruit that gains direction from red currant acidity, and is supported by ample warm tannins that are still quite young, but have smoothed over nicely, and lead into a long sour berry fruit finish. Elegant, and it will drink quite nicely with succulent red meats, either off the grill or roasted, or stewed. It will also age nicely for at least 5-8 years, and perhaps more. Worth seeking out.
90

Azienda Agricola Dei
Via di Martienza, 35
53045 Montepulciano
Tel: 0578 716878 - Fax: 0578 758680

Dei Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is a bit wild, with balsam and sea salt mingled with a fair amount of acidity, and some hot iron as well. Not much fruit at first, though some plum does emerge with time. On the palate it's big, with fairly ripe red berry fruit supported by ample sweet tannins that flow into a long sour finish; the palate is interesting enough, but I'd have liked more from the nose of a Nobile. Because of its greater acidity, however, it will drink well with red meats.
2 stars

Boscarelli
Via di Montenero, 28
53040 Cervognano
Tel: 0578 767277 - Fax: 0578 766882

Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is warm, with some acidity mingled with jammy berry fruit and plums, with some underlying greenish cedar. On the palate it's full, and rich, with ample rather sweet cherry and raspberry fruit supported by warm citric acidity, and by tannins that are big and smooth, and work from behind the surface to provide support. Drink it with drier meats, and if you like this big soft style you will like it.
2 stars

Boscarelli Nocio dei Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and oak laced, with greenish cedar notes mingled with some spice, and with fairly rich red bouquet providing support to it all. On the palate it's full, and bright, with lively cherry fruit directed by brisk citric acidity and supported by tannins that have a warm cedary burr. It's elegant, but needs another year for two for the oak to fold in, and will drink very well in the future with rich red meats. In short, a wine that needs time, and is worth waiting for.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Godiolo
Via dell'Acqua Puzzola, 13
53045 Montepulciano
Tel: 0578 757251 - Fax: 0578 757251

Godiolo Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is closed at first swish, though with time cedar and hardwood ash come up, supported by alcohol and by some underbrush. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with the structure coming more from big soft tannins that press off the tongue than the fruit, which is actually fairly intense -- cherry with black currant acidity -- and it flows into a long warm finish with some tannic berry fruit overtones. It's odd, and though there isn't a lack of fruit per se I'd have preferred that it come more to the fore than it does. It will in any case drink well with succulent red meats, including grilled meats or roasts, and if I had a couple of bottles I'd set one aside, because I have a feeling that it may do interesting things as it develops. There is certainly sufficient acidity for it to step forward as the tannins smooth.
The jury's out.

Godiolo Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2001
Lively garnet ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is delicate, with rich slightly berry fruit, a mixture of cherries and forest berries, supported by deft spice, a mix of pepper and nutmeg, and by clean cedar. Quite pleasant, and invites a second sniff. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful black cherry fruit that gains direction from lively acidity, and is supported by clean slightly brambly tannins that flow into a long warm sour berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. Quite nice, and will drink very well now with succulent red meats. If you have the patience to give it another three to five years, however, it will richly reward you.
91

Azienda Agricola Poliziano
Via Fontago, 1
53040 Montepulciano Stazione
Tel: 0578 738171 - Fax: 0578 738752

Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Deep black almandine with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright overripe cherry fruit with some greenish overtones and a fair amount of cedar. It's richer than many, and not quite as evidently the product of a hot vintage, but the mark is there just the same. On the palate it's full and soft, with ample cherry plum fruit supported by big tannins that start out smooth, but then reveal a brambly burr, and flow into a long warm finish with bitter brambly overtones. By comparison with many other 2003 Nobili it displays more grace, but it remains very much a child of the vintage, a big soft wine that I would drink fairly soon, with drier red or white meats.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Poggio Alla Sala
Strada della Chiana, 3
53045 Montepulciano
Tel: 0578 767224 - Fax: 0578 767748

Poggio alla Sala Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with black cherry rim -- poured ink. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up jam-laced plum fruit balanced by fairly sweet cocoa, with some greenish cedary spice as well. On the palate it's full, and quite smooth, with fairly rich plum fruit supported by ample slightly brambly tannins, and by some sour plum acidity that emerges in the end to keep it from settling through the floor as so many others do. In short, it displays a degree of grace, and I would drink it with drier meats, soon because as the tannins smooth it will fade.
2 stars

Icario
Strada per Torrita, 3
53045 Montepulciano
Tel: 0578 758845 - Fax: 0578 758441

Icario Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is delicate and vinous, with slight animal hair and mineral acidity supporting red berry fruit and some nutmeg spice; it's clearly a hot vintage wine, but manages a certain grace nonetheless. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with fairly intense cherry plum fruit that gains definition from some sour plum acidity, and flow into a long plum laced finish; the tannins are ample and for the most part smooth, though they do reveal a splintery burr in the finish. It's big, and clearly the product of a difficult vintage, but also displays a pleasing grace and fullness of fruit; if you like big soft fruit driven wines will like it. In terms of accompaniments, drier meats.
2 stars

Icario Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Vitarroccia 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with unusual floral accents mingling with cedar and Gum Arabic, with underlying spice. Pleasant in a decidedly international key. On the palate it's full and quite smooth, with fairly intense ripe cherry fruit that is soft, but gains direction from some deft acidity, and is supported by ample smooth tannins that are derived in part from oak, but have the good grace to stay out of the way, allowing the fruit to emerge. It's obviously a hot vintage wine, and has a degree of softness to it as a result, but it also displays pleasing grace. Proof that even in a difficult vintage one can achieve good results with hard work. Drink it with red meats, in the next year or two.
2 stars

La Bandita e Lunadoro
Via Terrarossa, Loc. Pagliareto
Tel: 0578 748154 - Fax: 0578 748154

La Bandita e Lunadoro Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with black cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is delicate, with a pleasing mixture of vanilla and very ripe plums with some nutmeg as well. Graceful in an international key. On the palate it's full, rich, and smooth, with powerful cherry plum fruit that gains direction from sour cherry acidity, and is supported by tannins that are ample and smooth, and reveal a slight youthful burr in the finish. It's quite elegant in an international key, and if you like big soft fruit driven wines you will like it very much. Drink it with drier meats, either white or red.
2 stars

Tenuta Di Gracciano
Via Umbria, 59
53040 Gracciano
Tel: 0578 708340

Gracciano Svetoni Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is frankly overripe, with a mixture of plums and black currant fruit supported by delicate vanilla laced spice and violet blossoms; the effect is deft and quite youthful, in an international key. On the palate it's big, and soft, with ample plum black currant fruit that's not quite as well defined as I might have liked, supported by big smooth tannins that work from below the surface, guiding the wine along. I would drink it relatively soon, rather than give it time, because it will continue to soften as the tannins smooth with time, and there isn't that much acidity to step in later. A fruit bomb, and soft enough that of you want to open it at table I would open it with drier meats, likely white meats. If you like the style you will like it very much, but you have to like big soft smooth wines.
2 stars

Tenimenti Agricoli Lodola Nuova
Via Lodola, 1
53040 Valiano
Tel: 0578 724032 - Fax: 0578 724032

Lodola Nuova Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Deep black pyrope ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, with some berry fruit jam and plum laced with cedar and hints of nutmeg. It gives an impression of softness. On the palate it's full, and soft, with fairly bright red berry fruit laced with berry fruit jam and supported by black currant acidity and ample smooth tannins that flow into a moderately long tart finish with tannic underpinning. The nose may be in the stupid phase, and I would give it a few months to develop as there are sufficient acidity and tannic structure to allow this. Drink it with drier meats, perhaps with gravy.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Contucci
Piazza Grande
53045 Montepulciano
Tel: 0578 757006 - Fax: 0578 752891

Contucci Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is cedar laced with plum fruit, a combination that brings flat coca cola to mind mingled with some nutmeg spice and iodine. On the palate it's ample, smooth, and soft, with fairly rich plum fruit supported by clean tannins that have a warm cedary burr, and flow into a fairly long warm finish. By comparison with some of the others it displays a degree of grace, and will drink well with red meats.
1 star

Bindella
Via delle Tre Berte, 10/a
53040 Acquaviva
Tel: 0578 767777 - Fax: 0578 767255

Bindella Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is warm and spicy, with hardwood ash and some plum fruit mingling with peppery tang. Overripe. On the palate it's full and soft, with ample cherry plum fruit supported by large sweet tannins that flow into a long warm finish; it's a big, soft wine, and I'd have liked better definition and structure. This said, it will drink well with drier red meats.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Canneto
Via dei Canneti, 14
53045 Montepulciano
Tel: 0578 757737 - Fax: 0578 757737

Canneto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Deep black pyrope ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up peppery spice and some sea salt, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with cherry plum fruit supported by full sweet tannins that take the show from the fruit, and much of the fullness is tannic in origin, and it all flows into a fairly bitter finish. It's big, soft, and a bit unbalanced; I'd have liked greater richness and languidity in the fruit given the smooth softness of the wine.
1 star

Azienda Agricola La Ciarliana di Frangiosa Luigi
Via Ciarliana, 31
Tel: 0578 758423 - Fax: 0578 758423

La Ciarlana Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is cooked, with vanilla and stewed berry fruit supported by considerable warmth, and some underlying cedar as well. On the palate it's richer than the nose suggests, with fairly bright spice-cake laced red berry fruit that gains definition from lively acidity, and fades into unusual gingersnap notes that are clearly from wood. If you like smooth soft heavily oaked wines you will like it, but I found it a bit much. A surfeit of oak.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Romeo
Podere Corsica, loc. Nottola
53040 Gracciano
Tel: 0578 708599 - Fax: 0578 708599

Romeo Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with black cherry rim: Poured ink. The bouquet is frankly oaky, with spice and cedar, mingled with some herbal notes and a fair amount of iodine, but not much in the way of jam nor fruit at first swish; with time plums do emerge. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate very ripe fruit that gains direction from some citric acidity that carries at length, while much of the volume is derived from the tannins. I would expect more from a Nobile.
1 star

Carpineto
Strada della Chiana, 62
53045 Montepulciano
Tel: 0578 30073 - Fax: 0578 30073

Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with black cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some mineral acidity at first sniff, which opens into cedar and berry fruit jam with subsequent sniffs. It needs time to develop. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately rich cherry plum fruit that gains definition from citric acidity, while the tannins flow into a warm splintery burr that continues at length. It's a pleasant interpretation of a hot vintage, with better definition in the big soft fruit than many, but the tannins need time to settle and loose their splinteriness, and I'm not sure how much time they will have, because the fruit is already quite soft. Drink it sooner than later with drier meats, served with gravies or sauces.
1 star

Fattoria di Palazzo Vecchio
Via Terrarossa, 5
53040 Valiano di Montepulciano (SI)
Tel. and Fax (+39) 0578- 724170

Fattoria di Palazzo Vecchio Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Impenetrable black almandine ruby with some almandine in the rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense, and disjointed, with warm cedar mingling with some balsamic animal tang, red berry fruit and nose tingling alcohol. Big, and lumbering; it's like sniffing a cedar chest. On the palate it's full, and ample, with rather dry slightly sour cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by cedar-laced greenish tannins that flow into a fairly splintery tannic finish that clearly owes much of its character to wood. It is young, and will soften with time, but I doubt it will ever loose this child-of-a-hot-vintage feel it has; a fellow taster mutters about lack of substance. Drink it with succulent red meats or stews, and give it a year or two to settle and loose some of this youthful disjointedness.
1 star

Fattoria Le Casalte
Via del Termine, 2
53045 Sant'Albino
Tel: 0578 798246 - Fax: 0578 799714

Le Casalte Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Deep black garnet ruby with black reflections and garnet rim. The bouquet is vegetal, with greenish notes and pungent overtones that rise up into the nose, and a fair amount of sea salt as well, mingled with some balsam. On the palate it's full and quite smooth, with ample plum fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by big smooth sweet tannins; it's like looking into a hangar somehow. Because of its softness it will work best with drier meats. Pity about the nose, because it was more interesting on the palate.
1 star

Fazi Battaglia s.p.a.
Via di Graccianello, 3/a
53040 Gracciano
Tel: 0578 708708 - Fax: 0578 708705

Fassati Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with black cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some spice, and acidity, mingled with hints of plum fruit. Not much going on. On the palate it's ample, and soft, with fairly acidic cherry plum fruit that has some licorice bitterness, and is supported by ample smooth tannins. It's disjointed, and flags, though the acidity will allow it to accompany red meats. I'd have wanted more from a Nobile; it's lacking in depth and complexity.
1 star

Il Conventino
Via della Ciarliana, 25/B
53045 Montepulciano
Tel: 0578 715371 - Fax: 0578 716283

Il Conventino Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is somewhat muted, with some acidity and slight plum fruit laced with hints of nutmeg. On the palate it's abundant and quite soft, with moderately intense plum fruit that gains direction from some sour plum acidity, and is supported by tannins that have an angry splintery burr. It's clearly the child of a hot vintage, and I would drink it with white meats sooner than later, because as the tannins smooth with time it will settle and fade.
1 star

La Braccesca s.a.s.
Via della Stella, 10
53040 Valiano
Tel: 0578 724252 - Fax: 0578 724118

La Braccesca Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with black cherry rim. Poured ink. On the palate it's closed at first sniff, though more swishing brings up some spice and alcohol. Not much fruit. On the palate it's full, and flat, with the fullness coming from tannins and from moderate plum fruit that gains direction from some mineral acidity, and it flows into an ample tannic finish. In a word, tired.
1 star

Palazzo Bandino
Via Stiglianesi, 6
53045 Montepulciano
Tel: 0578 61199 - Fax: 0578 62021

Palazzo Bandino Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is oaky, with a mixture of vanilla and cocoa, and some underlying nutmeg and sweetness, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and flat, with the structure coming from tannins more than fruit, and it fades into a decidedly tongue-curling cedar finish that also works its way back up the throat. Oak in a glass, and angry at being there.
1 star

Tenuta Valdipiatta
Via Ciarliana, 25
53040 Gracciano
Tel: 0578 757930 - Fax: 0578 717037

Tenuta Valdipiatta Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Deep almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with ripe red berry fruit mingled with some mint and underlying berry fruit jam. Nicely balanced, and it stands out with respect to the others in that it's not plumy at all. On the palate it's full, with ample slightly sour cherry fruit supported by large tannins that start smooth, but then reveal a marked brambly burr. It will fade with time, but I'm not sure how long I would age the wine because it doesn't have that much acidity to support it, and when what is there fades the rest will settle. Drink it with red meats that aren't too rich.
1 star

Cantine Innocenti
Via Landucci, 10
53040 Montefollonico
Tel: 0577 669537 - Fax: 0577 668863

Cantine Innocenti Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is vinous, with some metallic overtones and overripe plum fruit mingling with some cut flowers. Not much in the way of acidity. On the palate it's richer than I might have expected from the nose, with fairly bright sour red berry fruit supported by tannins that are smooth and have a warm splintery burr, and flow into a fairly long finish in which disquieting cedary metallic notes emerge, and continue at length. A pity, because I liked the acidity.
No star

Casa Vinicola Triacca
Strada per Pienza, 39
53045 Montepulciano
Tel: 0578 757774 - Fax: 0578 757774

Casa Vinicola Triacca Poderuccio Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with black cherry rim. Poured ink, and the bouquet is oak in a glass -- a rush of sweet cocoa and coffee with cedar undertones that grudgingly share the space with some chalk and hints of plum fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate mineral acidity and considerable oak providing structure and direction, while the fruit has simply taken its leave. Disconcerting.
No star

Fattoria Del Cerro
Via Grazianella, 5
53040 Acquaviva
Tel: 0578 767700 - Fax: 0578 768040

Fattoria del Cerro Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is powerful, and frankly green, with smoke and hardwood ash mingled with cedar and vegetal notes; with further swishing a metallic sharpness also emerges. On the palate it's big and soft with moderate plum fruit that gives way to metallic licorice and cumin flavors as the wine fades. Unusual, and I would drink the wine with drier white meats.
No star

Tasted at Vintialy: Il Cavallone

One of the nice things about Vinitaly is the range of producers, from enormous organizations that sell millions of cases per year through vintners with just a few hectares under vine and production in the thousands of bottles. Francesco Nardi's Azienda Agricola Il Cavallone places in the latter end of the scale; he has a few hectares of vineyards overlooking the Valdarno in the Chianti Colli Fiorentini production area, and though he does make a few other wines as well, devotes most of his energy to his Chianti Colli Fiorentini -- "Abandoning one's traditions is a huge mistake."

The wines are all single lot bottlings.

I began with Settelune IGT Toscano 2005, a white made from Malvasia del Chianti and Trebbiano; the name, Seven Moons, comes from the fact that seven moons must pass before the bouquet develops and it's ready to drink. It's bright brassy gold with apricot highlights and has an elegant bouquet with deft floral notes mingled with some honeysuckle, sage, and underlying sea salt. On the palate it's full, with bright white berry fruit supported by warm lively acidity and some peppery spice, and flows into a clean fresh finish that's quite long. Deft, and pleasant in an up front key; the Malvasia adds grace but the Trebbiano does quite well too. It will work nicely as an aperitif or with rich hearty soups, flavorful fish, or delicately cooked white meats, and the bottle will go quickly.
1 star

Il Cavallone Chianti Colli Fiorentini 2003
This is a classic Chianti with the traditional blend. It's lively almandine ruby with black reflections ands has a rich bouquet with bright berry fruit that's somewhat jammy (the effects of the 2003 vintage) but isn't overripe, and gains definition from some black graphite shaving bitterness. Quite nice, and brings back positive memories. The palate is equally traditional, with rich red berry fruit supported by deft slightly brambly acidity and by tannins that have a warm slightly greenish burr and flow into a clean fruit laced finish. This is Chianti as it once was, and if you have been drinking Chianti for a while it will bring back memories; the ideal accompaniment is a platter of mixed grilled meats.
2 stars

Libènter Rosso Toscano IGT 2004
This is a blend of Malvasia Nera and Cabernet Sauvignon; it's deep black cherry ruby with pale rim, and has a fresh bouquet with pleasing floral accents, violets and irises mingled with cherry blossoms and underlying rich berry fruit that gains direction from strawberry acidity and pleasing spice. Quite a bit going on in considerable harmony. On the palate it's deft, in a lively, rather aggressive key, with deft red berry fruit supported by pleasing slightly sour acidity, and by tannins that are tightly woven and have a slightly greenish burr, and flow into a clean berry fruit finish with tart brambly notes and some sea salt. Pleasant, in a slightly more direct key than the Chianti, and will drink very well with grilled meats -- expect the bottle to go quickly.
2 stars.

Where to find the wines? Alas, Francesco doesn't export (yet). This isn't as serious as it sounds, however, because Il Cavallone is not far from Florence -- a pretty half-hour drive -- and once you get there is pleasant. Quite, and if you decide you'd like to stay for a few days, they also have a couple of apartments they let. Check the Il Cavallone site for further contact information and views of the area..