2003 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

Vino Nobile has come through two very difficult vintages: 2002 was one of the wettest, and coldest summers in recent memory, and by all rights they should have gotten a break in 2003. Instead they got one of the hottest, driest summers in decades: Daytime temperatures climbed up into the 90s (F, high 30s C) by mid-May and stayed that way until mid-September, while it hardly rained at all.

Areas where the vineyards are surrounded by higher mountains that can generate cooling night-time breezes at least got some respite from the scorching days (the Chianti Rufina area, for example), but Montepulcianto doesn't enjoy this luxury -- the vineyards may be at comfortable elevations, but there are no nearby highlands to generate the cooling breezes, and as a result temperature excursions were reduced; this has a negative impact upon bouquets.

More importantly, however, the high temperatures hastened ripening, while the extreme drought stressed the vines in many of the vineyards. This is a dreadful combination; grapes that ripen too quickly don't have time to accumulate the volume of complexity-providing compounds they would accumulate in a normal year, while vines that are heat-stressed can simply stop producing the polyphenoloc compounds responsible for color and structure, while continuing to accumulate sugar.
Quite a bit of sugar, and as a result the wines of a summer like 2003 tend to be quite alcoholic. What else they display depends upon how the vineyard reacted to the heat. If the vines overcame the drought (older vines with deeper, better developed root structures are better at resisting doubts than young vines, which may require irrigation to survive); the fruit tends to be ample and very ripe to overripe, with jammy to cooked nuances (with careful leaf management the winemaker can shade the grapes, and thus protect them some from the heat, but there's only so much one can do) and ample, very soft tannins. If the vines instead suffered the drought and the grapes stopped ripening, the tannins tend to be green and rather shrill, and as a result so does the wine, which comes across as badly unbalanced.

To be frank I don't envy a winemaker faced with a vintage like 2003 -- Andreas März says "a lot of tears were shed" -- and the temptation to do something in the cellar must have been overpowering. Concentrate, to attempt to coax something more from the stinginess of the fruit (while removing some alcohol, perhaps), use small oak to attempt to balance the astringent greenness of the unripe tannins, anything. I had the impression that the producers of Nobile di Montepulciano tried everything, with varying degrees of success.

And what does this mean for the consumer? First of all, the 2003 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is not a vintage to lay down for posterity. Few if any of the wines poured at the vintage presentation in February 2006 will improve significantly with time, and many will fade. Therefore, it's a wine to be drunk now. It's also a wine to approach with caution; while one of the truisms of the wine industry says that in some vintages anyone can make a good wine, another says that faced with adversity the best will emerge. And that's what happened here; though I found most of the wines to be weak, a few did buck the trend and will be pleasant to drink over the fairly short term.

The Wines, Tasted February 23 2006:

Avignonesi S.P.A.
Fattoria le Capezzine 53040
Valiano di Montepulcinao (SI)
Tel: 0578 724304 - Fax: 0578 724308

Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with a rush of brandied plums mingled with menthol and savory balsamic notes that gain in intensity with time, underlain by some graphite shavings. On the palate it's big and soft, with ample cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that though large play second fiddle to the fruit, and flow into a clean fruit laced finish that gains definition from some citric acidity. It's big, and soft, but holds together nicely, and if you like big soft wines it will be a good bet. I would drink it sooner than later.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Casale
Via di Nottola, 9
53040 Montepulciano Stazione
Tel: 0578 738257 - Fax: 0578 738257

Casale Daviddi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is ample and soft, with nutmeg spice, acidity, and some underlying cedar; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with more fruit that one might have expected from the nose, overripe cherry plum, supported by soft smooth tannins that flow into an unusual, slightly disquieting finish with licorice overtones. It's big, soft, and heatstruck and I would drink it with drier white meats.
1 star

Casale Daviddi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is deft, and nicely balanced, with fairly rich red berry fruit -- cherries and some black currants -- supported by pleasing nutmeg laced spice. Quite a bit going on, in a deft way. On the palate it's full and bright, with fairly intense slightly sour cherry and forest berry fruit that gains direction from red currant acidity, and is supported by ample warm tannins that are still quite young, but have smoothed over nicely, and lead into a long sour berry fruit finish. Elegant, and it will drink quite nicely with succulent red meats, either off the grill or roasted, or stewed. It will also age nicely for at least 5-8 years, and perhaps more. Worth seeking out.
90

Azienda Agricola Dei
Via di Martienza, 35
53045 Montepulciano
Tel: 0578 716878 - Fax: 0578 758680

Dei Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is a bit wild, with balsam and sea salt mingled with a fair amount of acidity, and some hot iron as well. Not much fruit at first, though some plum does emerge with time. On the palate it's big, with fairly ripe red berry fruit supported by ample sweet tannins that flow into a long sour finish; the palate is interesting enough, but I'd have liked more from the nose of a Nobile. Because of its greater acidity, however, it will drink well with red meats.
2 stars

Boscarelli
Via di Montenero, 28
53040 Cervognano
Tel: 0578 767277 - Fax: 0578 766882

Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is warm, with some acidity mingled with jammy berry fruit and plums, with some underlying greenish cedar. On the palate it's full, and rich, with ample rather sweet cherry and raspberry fruit supported by warm citric acidity, and by tannins that are big and smooth, and work from behind the surface to provide support. Drink it with drier meats, and if you like this big soft style you will like it.
2 stars

Boscarelli Nocio dei Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and oak laced, with greenish cedar notes mingled with some spice, and with fairly rich red bouquet providing support to it all. On the palate it's full, and bright, with lively cherry fruit directed by brisk citric acidity and supported by tannins that have a warm cedary burr. It's elegant, but needs another year for two for the oak to fold in, and will drink very well in the future with rich red meats. In short, a wine that needs time, and is worth waiting for.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Godiolo
Via dell'Acqua Puzzola, 13
53045 Montepulciano
Tel: 0578 757251 - Fax: 0578 757251

Godiolo Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is closed at first swish, though with time cedar and hardwood ash come up, supported by alcohol and by some underbrush. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with the structure coming more from big soft tannins that press off the tongue than the fruit, which is actually fairly intense -- cherry with black currant acidity -- and it flows into a long warm finish with some tannic berry fruit overtones. It's odd, and though there isn't a lack of fruit per se I'd have preferred that it come more to the fore than it does. It will in any case drink well with succulent red meats, including grilled meats or roasts, and if I had a couple of bottles I'd set one aside, because I have a feeling that it may do interesting things as it develops. There is certainly sufficient acidity for it to step forward as the tannins smooth.
The jury's out.

Godiolo Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2001
Lively garnet ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is delicate, with rich slightly berry fruit, a mixture of cherries and forest berries, supported by deft spice, a mix of pepper and nutmeg, and by clean cedar. Quite pleasant, and invites a second sniff. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful black cherry fruit that gains direction from lively acidity, and is supported by clean slightly brambly tannins that flow into a long warm sour berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. Quite nice, and will drink very well now with succulent red meats. If you have the patience to give it another three to five years, however, it will richly reward you.
91

Azienda Agricola Poliziano
Via Fontago, 1
53040 Montepulciano Stazione
Tel: 0578 738171 - Fax: 0578 738752

Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Deep black almandine with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright overripe cherry fruit with some greenish overtones and a fair amount of cedar. It's richer than many, and not quite as evidently the product of a hot vintage, but the mark is there just the same. On the palate it's full and soft, with ample cherry plum fruit supported by big tannins that start out smooth, but then reveal a brambly burr, and flow into a long warm finish with bitter brambly overtones. By comparison with many other 2003 Nobili it displays more grace, but it remains very much a child of the vintage, a big soft wine that I would drink fairly soon, with drier red or white meats.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Poggio Alla Sala
Strada della Chiana, 3
53045 Montepulciano
Tel: 0578 767224 - Fax: 0578 767748

Poggio alla Sala Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with black cherry rim -- poured ink. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up jam-laced plum fruit balanced by fairly sweet cocoa, with some greenish cedary spice as well. On the palate it's full, and quite smooth, with fairly rich plum fruit supported by ample slightly brambly tannins, and by some sour plum acidity that emerges in the end to keep it from settling through the floor as so many others do. In short, it displays a degree of grace, and I would drink it with drier meats, soon because as the tannins smooth it will fade.
2 stars

Icario
Strada per Torrita, 3
53045 Montepulciano
Tel: 0578 758845 - Fax: 0578 758441

Icario Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is delicate and vinous, with slight animal hair and mineral acidity supporting red berry fruit and some nutmeg spice; it's clearly a hot vintage wine, but manages a certain grace nonetheless. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with fairly intense cherry plum fruit that gains definition from some sour plum acidity, and flow into a long plum laced finish; the tannins are ample and for the most part smooth, though they do reveal a splintery burr in the finish. It's big, and clearly the product of a difficult vintage, but also displays a pleasing grace and fullness of fruit; if you like big soft fruit driven wines will like it. In terms of accompaniments, drier meats.
2 stars

Icario Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Vitarroccia 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with unusual floral accents mingling with cedar and Gum Arabic, with underlying spice. Pleasant in a decidedly international key. On the palate it's full and quite smooth, with fairly intense ripe cherry fruit that is soft, but gains direction from some deft acidity, and is supported by ample smooth tannins that are derived in part from oak, but have the good grace to stay out of the way, allowing the fruit to emerge. It's obviously a hot vintage wine, and has a degree of softness to it as a result, but it also displays pleasing grace. Proof that even in a difficult vintage one can achieve good results with hard work. Drink it with red meats, in the next year or two.
2 stars

La Bandita e Lunadoro
Via Terrarossa, Loc. Pagliareto
Tel: 0578 748154 - Fax: 0578 748154

La Bandita e Lunadoro Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with black cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is delicate, with a pleasing mixture of vanilla and very ripe plums with some nutmeg as well. Graceful in an international key. On the palate it's full, rich, and smooth, with powerful cherry plum fruit that gains direction from sour cherry acidity, and is supported by tannins that are ample and smooth, and reveal a slight youthful burr in the finish. It's quite elegant in an international key, and if you like big soft fruit driven wines you will like it very much. Drink it with drier meats, either white or red.
2 stars

Tenuta Di Gracciano
Via Umbria, 59
53040 Gracciano
Tel: 0578 708340

Gracciano Svetoni Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is frankly overripe, with a mixture of plums and black currant fruit supported by delicate vanilla laced spice and violet blossoms; the effect is deft and quite youthful, in an international key. On the palate it's big, and soft, with ample plum black currant fruit that's not quite as well defined as I might have liked, supported by big smooth tannins that work from below the surface, guiding the wine along. I would drink it relatively soon, rather than give it time, because it will continue to soften as the tannins smooth with time, and there isn't that much acidity to step in later. A fruit bomb, and soft enough that of you want to open it at table I would open it with drier meats, likely white meats. If you like the style you will like it very much, but you have to like big soft smooth wines.
2 stars

Tenimenti Agricoli Lodola Nuova
Via Lodola, 1
53040 Valiano
Tel: 0578 724032 - Fax: 0578 724032

Lodola Nuova Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Deep black pyrope ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, with some berry fruit jam and plum laced with cedar and hints of nutmeg. It gives an impression of softness. On the palate it's full, and soft, with fairly bright red berry fruit laced with berry fruit jam and supported by black currant acidity and ample smooth tannins that flow into a moderately long tart finish with tannic underpinning. The nose may be in the stupid phase, and I would give it a few months to develop as there are sufficient acidity and tannic structure to allow this. Drink it with drier meats, perhaps with gravy.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Contucci
Piazza Grande
53045 Montepulciano
Tel: 0578 757006 - Fax: 0578 752891

Contucci Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is cedar laced with plum fruit, a combination that brings flat coca cola to mind mingled with some nutmeg spice and iodine. On the palate it's ample, smooth, and soft, with fairly rich plum fruit supported by clean tannins that have a warm cedary burr, and flow into a fairly long warm finish. By comparison with some of the others it displays a degree of grace, and will drink well with red meats.
1 star

Bindella
Via delle Tre Berte, 10/a
53040 Acquaviva
Tel: 0578 767777 - Fax: 0578 767255

Bindella Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is warm and spicy, with hardwood ash and some plum fruit mingling with peppery tang. Overripe. On the palate it's full and soft, with ample cherry plum fruit supported by large sweet tannins that flow into a long warm finish; it's a big, soft wine, and I'd have liked better definition and structure. This said, it will drink well with drier red meats.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Canneto
Via dei Canneti, 14
53045 Montepulciano
Tel: 0578 757737 - Fax: 0578 757737

Canneto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Deep black pyrope ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up peppery spice and some sea salt, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with cherry plum fruit supported by full sweet tannins that take the show from the fruit, and much of the fullness is tannic in origin, and it all flows into a fairly bitter finish. It's big, soft, and a bit unbalanced; I'd have liked greater richness and languidity in the fruit given the smooth softness of the wine.
1 star

Azienda Agricola La Ciarliana di Frangiosa Luigi
Via Ciarliana, 31
Tel: 0578 758423 - Fax: 0578 758423

La Ciarlana Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is cooked, with vanilla and stewed berry fruit supported by considerable warmth, and some underlying cedar as well. On the palate it's richer than the nose suggests, with fairly bright spice-cake laced red berry fruit that gains definition from lively acidity, and fades into unusual gingersnap notes that are clearly from wood. If you like smooth soft heavily oaked wines you will like it, but I found it a bit much. A surfeit of oak.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Romeo
Podere Corsica, loc. Nottola
53040 Gracciano
Tel: 0578 708599 - Fax: 0578 708599

Romeo Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with black cherry rim: Poured ink. The bouquet is frankly oaky, with spice and cedar, mingled with some herbal notes and a fair amount of iodine, but not much in the way of jam nor fruit at first swish; with time plums do emerge. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate very ripe fruit that gains direction from some citric acidity that carries at length, while much of the volume is derived from the tannins. I would expect more from a Nobile.
1 star

Carpineto
Strada della Chiana, 62
53045 Montepulciano
Tel: 0578 30073 - Fax: 0578 30073

Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with black cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some mineral acidity at first sniff, which opens into cedar and berry fruit jam with subsequent sniffs. It needs time to develop. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately rich cherry plum fruit that gains definition from citric acidity, while the tannins flow into a warm splintery burr that continues at length. It's a pleasant interpretation of a hot vintage, with better definition in the big soft fruit than many, but the tannins need time to settle and loose their splinteriness, and I'm not sure how much time they will have, because the fruit is already quite soft. Drink it sooner than later with drier meats, served with gravies or sauces.
1 star

Fattoria di Palazzo Vecchio
Via Terrarossa, 5
53040 Valiano di Montepulciano (SI)
Tel. and Fax (+39) 0578- 724170

Fattoria di Palazzo Vecchio Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Impenetrable black almandine ruby with some almandine in the rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense, and disjointed, with warm cedar mingling with some balsamic animal tang, red berry fruit and nose tingling alcohol. Big, and lumbering; it's like sniffing a cedar chest. On the palate it's full, and ample, with rather dry slightly sour cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by cedar-laced greenish tannins that flow into a fairly splintery tannic finish that clearly owes much of its character to wood. It is young, and will soften with time, but I doubt it will ever loose this child-of-a-hot-vintage feel it has; a fellow taster mutters about lack of substance. Drink it with succulent red meats or stews, and give it a year or two to settle and loose some of this youthful disjointedness.
1 star

Fattoria Le Casalte
Via del Termine, 2
53045 Sant'Albino
Tel: 0578 798246 - Fax: 0578 799714

Le Casalte Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Deep black garnet ruby with black reflections and garnet rim. The bouquet is vegetal, with greenish notes and pungent overtones that rise up into the nose, and a fair amount of sea salt as well, mingled with some balsam. On the palate it's full and quite smooth, with ample plum fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by big smooth sweet tannins; it's like looking into a hangar somehow. Because of its softness it will work best with drier meats. Pity about the nose, because it was more interesting on the palate.
1 star

Fazi Battaglia s.p.a.
Via di Graccianello, 3/a
53040 Gracciano
Tel: 0578 708708 - Fax: 0578 708705

Fassati Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with black cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some spice, and acidity, mingled with hints of plum fruit. Not much going on. On the palate it's ample, and soft, with fairly acidic cherry plum fruit that has some licorice bitterness, and is supported by ample smooth tannins. It's disjointed, and flags, though the acidity will allow it to accompany red meats. I'd have wanted more from a Nobile; it's lacking in depth and complexity.
1 star

Il Conventino
Via della Ciarliana, 25/B
53045 Montepulciano
Tel: 0578 715371 - Fax: 0578 716283

Il Conventino Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is somewhat muted, with some acidity and slight plum fruit laced with hints of nutmeg. On the palate it's abundant and quite soft, with moderately intense plum fruit that gains direction from some sour plum acidity, and is supported by tannins that have an angry splintery burr. It's clearly the child of a hot vintage, and I would drink it with white meats sooner than later, because as the tannins smooth with time it will settle and fade.
1 star

La Braccesca s.a.s.
Via della Stella, 10
53040 Valiano
Tel: 0578 724252 - Fax: 0578 724118

La Braccesca Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with black cherry rim. Poured ink. On the palate it's closed at first sniff, though more swishing brings up some spice and alcohol. Not much fruit. On the palate it's full, and flat, with the fullness coming from tannins and from moderate plum fruit that gains direction from some mineral acidity, and it flows into an ample tannic finish. In a word, tired.
1 star

Palazzo Bandino
Via Stiglianesi, 6
53045 Montepulciano
Tel: 0578 61199 - Fax: 0578 62021

Palazzo Bandino Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is oaky, with a mixture of vanilla and cocoa, and some underlying nutmeg and sweetness, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and flat, with the structure coming from tannins more than fruit, and it fades into a decidedly tongue-curling cedar finish that also works its way back up the throat. Oak in a glass, and angry at being there.
1 star

Tenuta Valdipiatta
Via Ciarliana, 25
53040 Gracciano
Tel: 0578 757930 - Fax: 0578 717037

Tenuta Valdipiatta Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Deep almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with ripe red berry fruit mingled with some mint and underlying berry fruit jam. Nicely balanced, and it stands out with respect to the others in that it's not plumy at all. On the palate it's full, with ample slightly sour cherry fruit supported by large tannins that start smooth, but then reveal a marked brambly burr. It will fade with time, but I'm not sure how long I would age the wine because it doesn't have that much acidity to support it, and when what is there fades the rest will settle. Drink it with red meats that aren't too rich.
1 star

Cantine Innocenti
Via Landucci, 10
53040 Montefollonico
Tel: 0577 669537 - Fax: 0577 668863

Cantine Innocenti Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is vinous, with some metallic overtones and overripe plum fruit mingling with some cut flowers. Not much in the way of acidity. On the palate it's richer than I might have expected from the nose, with fairly bright sour red berry fruit supported by tannins that are smooth and have a warm splintery burr, and flow into a fairly long finish in which disquieting cedary metallic notes emerge, and continue at length. A pity, because I liked the acidity.
No star

Casa Vinicola Triacca
Strada per Pienza, 39
53045 Montepulciano
Tel: 0578 757774 - Fax: 0578 757774

Casa Vinicola Triacca Poderuccio Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with black cherry rim. Poured ink, and the bouquet is oak in a glass -- a rush of sweet cocoa and coffee with cedar undertones that grudgingly share the space with some chalk and hints of plum fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate mineral acidity and considerable oak providing structure and direction, while the fruit has simply taken its leave. Disconcerting.
No star

Fattoria Del Cerro
Via Grazianella, 5
53040 Acquaviva
Tel: 0578 767700 - Fax: 0578 768040

Fattoria del Cerro Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is powerful, and frankly green, with smoke and hardwood ash mingled with cedar and vegetal notes; with further swishing a metallic sharpness also emerges. On the palate it's big and soft with moderate plum fruit that gives way to metallic licorice and cumin flavors as the wine fades. Unusual, and I would drink the wine with drier white meats.
No star