Benvenuto Brunello 2007: Vintage Impressions and Tasting Notes

Benvenuto Brunello was held at the end of Febriary this year, and we were blessed with nice weather for the two days of the event. In terms of Brunello, we were offered the 2002 Brunello, and the 2001 Brunello Riserva. Since I liked the 2001 vintage I tasted last year, I began with the 2001 Riserva, and tasted through them all. As one might expect, there were highs and lows, but my overall impression was quite positive. There are some excellent wines to be had, and they will age very well. In other words, fine wines for special occasions.

The 2002 vintage is a very different story: A few of the largest producers, who could pick through a large volume of grapes to make a small volume of bottles, produced acceptable wines, as did a small number of small producers. But the vast majority of the winemakers would have done well to follow the lead of the few who decided just to make Rosso in 2002.

Put simply, the 2002 Brunello di Montalcino is a wine that's Non all'Altezza, as Italians say -- it doesn't meet the standard. Sample after sample was lacking in fruit, presented unusual, in some cases off-putting aromas, lacked structure, or presented combinations of structure and aroma that were frankly improbable -- overripe fruit, for example, which only makes sense when you realize that the laws governing Italian winemaking allow what's known as a taglio migliorativo: winemakers can blend up to 15% of one or more other vintages of a given wine into a specific vintage of said wine to shore it up. For example, one could add 1997 and 2001 to the 2005, and here I suspect many producers tried to shore up their weak 2002 wines with a robust shot of 2003. Unfortunately 2003 has a different set of problems -- it was a very hot, dry vintage that yielded many heat-struck wines -- and combining the two vintages simply made a wine with two sets of problems rather than one.

The bottom line is that the winemakers who took everything that was supposed to be 2002 Brunello and sold it as Rosso di Montalcino probably had the right idea; I did find a few wines that were pleasant -- wines made by people who didn't try to compensate for Nature's stinginess with oak, concentrators, or other-vintage additions -- but they tended to be uniformly light, and not what one expects from what should be the flagship of Tuscan appellations, if not of all Italian appellations.

I'm sorry to come down so hard on the vintage, but if I were to fork over a hefty sum for a 2002 Brunello (there is some talk of reducing the prices, but not by much) I would be tremendously disappointed. And if I had no other experience with the wine, after buying a bottle of 2002 I would also write it off as completely overblown.

Fortunately, the 2001 Brunello is still here to enjoy, and if you should happen upon a bottle of 1999, that vintage is shaping up to be spectacular.

The wines, tasted February 2007:

Agricola Centolani - Tenute Friggiali e Pietranera
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.friggialiepietranera.it

Tenute Friggiali e Pietranera Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, and a bit penetrating, with spice mingled with white truffles and nose-tingling acidity; there's also a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's bright, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are ample and smooth, working towards silky, and it all flows into a warm clean sour cherry finish. It's still climbing, but will drink well now with a succulent roast, for example leg of lamb. Something to think about if you like a more traditional, slightly drier interpretation of Brunello.
2 stars

Agostina Pieri
53020 Castelnuovo Abate -SI
Tel. 0577 375785

Agostina Pieri Brunello di Montalcino 2002
Slightly brownish deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is penetrating, with burnt cork and pungent medicinal notes -- iodine, primarily -- mingled with sea salt. Not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with moderate generic berry fruit supported by slight red plum acidity, and by ample smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly sour finish. It's somehow neither here nor there, and comes across as nondescript.
1 star

Altesino
53028 Torrenieri-SI
http://www.altesino.it

Altesino Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections. The nose is unusual; the first impression is Coca Cola, and this is likely wood-fruit interaction; with more swishing spice and alcohol emerge, but not much fruit. Disjointed, and gives an impression of needing time. On the palate it's oddly languid, with moderate cherry fruit supported by tannins that are cedary, and lay a warm wash over the tongue, flowing into a clean cedar-laced finish. It's direct, and needs more time for the wood to fold into the wine, say another 2-3 years; drink it with succulent red meats or stews. The score reflects the moment; it could become quite interesting as it develops.
1 star

Altesino Brunello di Montalcino 2002
Black almandine with brownish black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, and green, with lively acidity mingled with bitter medicinal accents and some wet stable straw. Angry, in a penetrating way, and with more swishing hot iron enters the picture as well. On the palate it's flat, with moderately intense bitter fruit supported by tannins that lay a warm cedary burr over the tongue. I expect much more than this from a Brunello; it's light, which is fine given the vintage, but utterly lacking in grace.
1 star

Argiano
53020 S. Angelo in Colle - SI
http://www.argiano.net

Argiano Brunello di Montalcino 2002
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine ruby. The bouquet is fairly intense, with wet leather mingled with plum fruit and some medicinal notes, iodine in particular, and hardwood ash bitterness. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards full, with moderately intense slightly sour cherry plum fruit whose ripeness -- the plum part -- is a surprise considering the vintage, supported by tannins that lay a warm cedary burr over the tongue, and flow into a clean bitter tannic finish. It's disjointed, more on the palate than the nose, and I would give it a year to get its bearings before drinking it with grilled or roasted red meats.
1 star

Banfi
53020 S. Angelo in Colle - SI
http://www.banfi.com/

Banfi Brunello di Montalcino 2002
Impenetrable black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with warm slightly brambly acidity and moderately intense berry fruit that gains direction from graphite shavings and slight cedar; graceful in a youthful key. On the palate it's full, and fairly rich, with clean warm cherry fruit that gains direction from moderate sour cherry acidity, and flows into a clean slightly tannic sour cherry finish. It's pleasant, in a direct up-front sort of way, with a little less acidity than I might have expected from the vintage (i.e. the selection of bunches was very careful, and they used only the ripest) and will drink nicely with foods, though it will benefit from at least another year in bottle. I doubt it will ever scale to great heights, but it is one of those wines that contributes nicely to the meal by being there. In terms of accompaniments, succulent, not too fatty red meats.
2 stars

Banfi Florus Moscadello di Montalcino
Pale gold with brassy reflections. The bouquet is rich, and bright, with heady apricot, a mixture of very ripe and dried, mingled with cut flowers and honeysuckle, with underlying honey and hints of bitter brown sugar, while a fellow taster also finds licorice. Quite pleasant. On the palate it's full, and rich, with honey sweetness and rich apricot fruit supported by deft dried apricot acidity that flows into a clean sweet apricot finish. Quite nice, and will drink nicely with rich cheeses, or far from the table.
2 stars

Barbi
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.fattoriadeibarbi.it/

Barbi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is settled, with earthy notes mingled with some spice, warmth, and leaf tobacco. Not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense cherry fruit that gains direction from sour berry fruit acidity, and is supported by clean sweet tannins that flow into a long warm finish. The palate reflects the nose, and the overall impression is more towards staid than vibrant; it will drink well with succulent red meats.
1 star

Barbi Brunello di Montalcino 2002
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with wet leather mingled with animal notes -- bitter stable straw -- and some spice, with underlying dried flowers and slight prune. On the palate it's oddly flat, with moderately intense decidedly savory berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a bitter fruit laced finish that is again fairly savory. Unusual, and it feels as if someone shook some salt into the barrel. My God.
No star

Baricci
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577 848109

Baricci Brunello di Montalcino 2002
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and slightly brownish almandine rim. The bouquet is rustic, with animal tang -- wet horse with a bit of stable straw thrown in, and some greenish accents. On the palate it's softer than I had hoped, with moderate generic bitter fruit supported by tannins that are a bit funky, and flow into a clean bitter finish. A good rustic wine has bright sour fruit, but this one really doesn't; it's more settled, and flags. Because of the acidity present it will drink with light grilled meats.
1 star

Bartoli Giusti Tenuta Comunali
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.bartoligiusti.it

Bartoli Giusti - Tenuta Comunali Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is bright, with moderate berry fruit and quite a bit of dusky pencil shavings with peppery spice that adds depth. On the palate it's rich, with bright red berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and deft citric acidity that flow into a warm sour cherry finish. Elegant, though very young, and will become lacy with time, assuming you don't drink it now with a steak or platter of rich grilled meats. Expect it to age for at least a decade.
2 stars

Brunelli
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.tenutabrunelli.it/

Brunelli Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is powerful, and frankly chemical, with a rush of cedar mingled with petroleum and some spice, with underlying slightly balsamic alcohol. It's like visiting a cabinet maker's. On the palate it's ample and very smooth, with soft slightly sour cherry fruit supported by smooth tannins that exude cedar, and flow into a long finish that gradually displays cocoa bitterness and some coffee grounds as well. There was a battle in the barrel and the fruit came up short.
1 star

Brunelli Brunello di Montalcino 2002
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The nose is eye-opening, and not in a good way; with sea salt and considerable animal bitterness mingled with some underlying cedar. On the palate it's medium bodied with moderate generic fruit supported by tannins that have bitter cedary overtones and flow into a savory green finish that's unusual, and not at all what one would expect from a Brunello.
No star

Camigliano
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.camigliano.it/

Camigliano Brunello di Montalcino 2002
Deep black lam with some orange in the rim; it looks quite dark for the year. The bouquet is odd, with hints of hazelnut mingled with sea salt and some spice. Not much fruit at all. On the palate it's more of the same, with moderate rather savory generic berry fruit supported by smooth bitter tannins. It's what it is.
No star

Canalicchio di Sopra
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.canalicchiodisopra.com

Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with balsamic notes and sour berry fruit mingled with pleasing spice, while there is also some menthol and peppery spice. On the palate it's ample, and rather languid, with bright sour cherry fruit that gains direction from warm acidity and clean fairly dry tannins that flow into a warm clean tannic finish. It's a bit too dry, though the fruit is nice; this is likely a result of time in wood, which does dry fruit, and was more common when Brunello had to spend 4 years in wood. This said, it will drink nicely with succulent red meats, and is pleasant if you like the style.
1 star

Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino 2002
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is flat, with some sea salt mingled with some bitter medicinal accents. On the palate it's flat, with moderate very bitter sour berry fruit supported by tannins that have an initial greenish cedary rush that gives way to peppery, almost salty angry very bitter warmth.
No star

Canneta
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.canalicchiodisopra.com

Canneta Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. Looks mature. The bouquet is clean, with balsamic warmth and some old asphalt mingled with berry fruit that has dry floral accents and some underbrush as well. On the palate it's full, with delicate slightly sour cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and deft almost brambly acidity that flow into a clean slightly tart berry fruit finish. Elegant, and displays considerable balance in a very traditional style that privileges fairly tart fruit and finesse over ripeness and concentration. If you like the traditional style you will like it very much; it will drink well with a steak or roast, including leg of lamb. Worth seeking out.
88-90

Canneta Brunello di Montalcino 2002
Almandine with brownish reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is delicate, with leathery notes mingled with sour berry fruit and some pungent underbrush with India ink bitterness, while there is delicate acidity to provide direction. Nice balance, and harmonious. On the palate it's fairly light (for a Brunello) with moderate sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are distinctly green, and flow into a warm tannic finish that's fairly long. It's very young, and will profit from at least a year in bottle; with time it will also become lacy, and quite delicate. Because of its acidity it will age nicely, and could do interesting things with time.
1 star

Capanna
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577 848298

Capanna Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit unusual, with moderate berry fruit mingled with balsamic notes; the combination brings watermelon to mind at first sniff before resolving into its component parts and also revealing some acidity. On the palate it's full, with moderate berry fruit supported by tannins that are warm and cedary; the overall ensemble has a tired feel to it.
1 star

Capanna Moscadello di Montalcino
Tawny brassy yellow with golden reflections. The bouquet is rich, and languid, with honeysuckle and hints of eucalyptus mingling with sugars and tropical fruit, while there are also underlying hints of botrytis. On the palate it's full, and smooth, with powerful crystallized honey sweetness mingled with some herbal notes that add depth, and pleasant tropical fruit that all flow into a clean rich sweet finish. It's fairly direct, but pleasant to drink.
1 star

Caprili
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.caprili.it/

Caprili Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with sour berry fruit laced with balsam and some warm saddle leather mingled with heather from a Tuscan field and a degree of warmth. Nice balance, and pleasant in a fairly traditional key. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry fruit that gains direction from moderate sour cherry acidity, and is supported by ample smooth sweet tannins that are working towards silky, though not there yet -- there's a slight burr -- and it flows into a clean fruit laced finish with tannic underpinning. It's pleasant, but climbing, and will become graceful with time. Time it deserves -- it will age well for a decade or more -- and will drink quite well with succulent red meats. Worth seeking out
2 stars

Caprili Brunello di Montalcino 2002
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and leathery almandine rim. Quite dark. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up leather -- a fellow taster says freshly tanned -- and leaf tobacco mingled with some iodine, bitterness, and slight hints of prune fruit. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by ample smooth tannins that flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish that gains direction from bitter savory notes. It's definitely lesser key, but displays a certain grace, and will drink nicely with red meats off the grill or light stews. It has sufficient acidity to age nicely for a few years, though I wouldn't keep it for too long.
2 stars

Caprili Moscadello di Montalcino
Pale brassy white with brassy highlights. The bouquet is rich, with honeysuckle and slightly greenish sweetness mingled with white blossoms. On the palate it's full, and rich, with slight petillance and full rich fruit supported by refreshing honeydew melon sweetness and deft acidity that keeps it from being cloying; the finish is more honeydew melon, gradually fading. Quite nice, and will drink very well at poolside on a hot summer day, or on the patio in the evening. Given the proper occasion, you'll want more than one bottle.
2 stars

Casanova di Neri
53028 Torrenieri - SI
http://www.casanovadineri.com

Casanova di Neri Cerretalto Brunello Riserva 2001
Deep black cherry ruby with almandine in the rim. The bouquet is powerful, with cedar and sweet spice nicely balancing powerful berry fruit. Quite elegant, and a wine that you will sniff again and again, but there's a richness and feel to it that I usually don't associate with Brunello. On the palate it's full, a broodingly elegant presence with powerful very ripe berry fruit that has some plum overtones supported by smooth sweet tannins that still display some cedary warmth, but are headed towards velvety smoothness. The acidity is held firmly in check, and as with the nose, I find it very good but not what I associate with Brunello -- polish aside, the acidity is different, and the wood plays a major role. The result is a superb wine that could just as easily be from elsewhere as from Montalcino. In short, if you like this elegant ripe fruit driven international style, you will like it very much and I do recommend it. But if you prefer a fine wine that displays its territorial roots, this isn't it. It's very young and will age for at least 15 years, assuming you have the patience.
88-90

Casanuova delle Cerbaie
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.casanuovadellecerbaie.com/

Casanuova delle Cerbaie Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with balsamic warmth and some saddle leather mingled with cedar and citric acidity; moderate sour cherry fruit too. On the palate it's full, with warm slightly balsamic cherry fruit supported by dusty tannins that have warm balsamic overtones, and also some cedar, which flows into a warm cedar laced finish. It's a bit tired, and though it will settle gracefully into a lacy wine with time, I found the tannins to be overly dry at present, and this is likely due to length of time spent in wood. In terms of accompaniments, because of the dryness of the mouth, I would go with succulent cuts of meat, along the lines of leg of lamb or stewed venison. If you like the style you will enjoy it.
1 star

Casisano Colombaio
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.brunello.org/

Casisano Colombaio Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with underbrush and cedar, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, and flat, with moderate sour cherry fruit supported by warm balsamic acidity and by tannins that are warm and quite dry, and flow into a warm dry tannic finish. I found it overly dry; the initial fruit was obviously nice, but the wood sapped it with time. Because of its dryness, it will drink well with succulent meats, especially red, that beg a dry wine to clear the palate between bites.
1 star

Castelgiocondo
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.frescobaldi.it/

Castelgiocondo Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, with pronounced cedar mingled with sour red berry fruit, and deft alcohol. On the palate it's full, and frankly oaky, with a rush of cedar that covers all, flowing into a clean slightly sour alcoholic cedar finish. Too much wood for the fruit, which surrenders rather sadly.
1 star

Castelgiocondo Brunello di Montalcino 2002
Deep black cherry ruby -- poured ink, even -- with cherry ruby rim. No traces of garnet, and to be honest it looks like it's from a different vintage. The bouquet is equally unusual within the 2002 context, with ample soft red berry fruit -- a mixture of strawberries and raspberries with cherry overtones -- and moderate slightly greenish accents. It's not as rich as a more normal vintage of this wine is, but is on a different plane with respect to most of the other 2002 Brunelli poured at the tasting. On the palate it's full, soft, and fairly sweet, with ample berry fruit that gains strong sour accents with time, supported by a tremendous load of greenish oak that leads into a tongue-drying bitter cedar finish. Very unusual. Because of the astringency of the tannins it will drink best with succulent meats, and I would drink it fairly soon, because the fruit is soft and there isn't much acidity to support it -- tannic bitterness is taking over that function, and bitterness is not acidity.
1 star

Castiglion del Bosco
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.castigliondelbosco.it

Castiglion del Bosco Campo del Drago Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections. The nose is quite intense, and unusual too -- a great rush of porcini mushrooms that are almost chewy in their consistency; with more swishing slight bright berry fruit emerges from around the edges. A fellow taster's glass is different, with considerably more red berry fruit that's quite bright, with the mushroomy aromas present but playing a supporting roll. On the palate it's full, with fairly bright cherry fruit that gains definition from red currant acidity, and is supported by ample smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long clean slightly sour berry fruit finish. Pleasant, though the nose is a little unusual (and this may be a phase it's going through, or more likely the bottle I tasted), it will drink very well with foods, in particular grilled meats or roasts, and will also age nicely. Worth seeking out if you like this clean middle-of-the road style.
90

Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona
53020 Castelnuovo Abate - SI
http://www.ciaccipiccolomini.com/

Ciacci Piccolomini D'Aragona Brunello di Montalcino 2002
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with wet leather and spice mingling with red berry fruit, and some iodine as well. The palate reflects the nose, with moderate sour cherry fruit that gains some direction from sour cherry acidity, and by tannins that have a spicy burr, and flow into a warm, sour, distinctly tannic finish. It's clearly the child of a lesser vintage, but does have personality, and will drink nicely with succulent not too fatty red meats or light stews, and could do nice things over the next 3-5 years, though I wouldn't keep it longer. A nice expression of a difficult vintage.
1 star

Col d'Orcia
53020 S. Angelo in Colle - SI
http://www.coldorcia.it

Col D'Orcia Poggio al Vento Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful and penetrating, with dusky bitter underbrush mingled with some balsam and Moroccan leather, with quite a bit of alcohol as well, and with time dried flowers. On the palate it's rich, and full, with powerful sour cherry fruit that is supported by deft red currant acidity, and by ample smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long clean sour fruit finish with tannic underpinning. It's quite elegant in a decidedly traditional key, and will drink nicely with succulent red meats now -- a Porterhouse cut might be nice -- though it will reward those blessed with patience, becoming lacy with time. Expect it to age well for at least 15 years, and if you like this style it's well worth seeking out.
90

Col D'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino 2002
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly vegetal, with greenish notes and bitter iodine mingling with sea salt, some balsamic spice, and slight animal tang. Quite a bit of brambly acidity too. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense very sour red currant fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins, which flow into a clean sour greenish finish that continues at length. It's quite astringent, enough to feel thinner than it is, and very much a wine from a rainy summer. In other words, atypical for what one expects from Brunello, though quite in keeping with the year, and does display a certain grace; because of its bright acidity will drink well with a platter of grilled roasted meats.
2 stars

Coldisole
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577 355789

Coldisole Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Impenetrable black almandine ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and fairly rustic, with wet horse mingled with graphite shavings and some brambly underbrush, and underlying marzipan spice. On the palate it's full and soft, with ample sour balsamic cherry fruit that gains direction from some raspberry acidity, and is supported by warm balsamic tannins that flow into a clean savory sour cherry finish with clean tannic underpinning. It's a little dry, but will drink nicely with succulent meats, and is worth considering if you prefer the more traditional, slightly rustic style of Brunello. Expect it to age nicely, becoming lacy with time.
2 stars

Collemattoni
53020 S. Angelo in Colle - SI
http://www.collemattoni.it

Collemattoni Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Black almandine with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and rather medicinal, with greenish overtones and a fair amount of spice. On the palate it's full, and fairly soft, with moderately intense dusty cherry fruit supported by clean fairly tart smooth tannins that flow into a clean rather bitter finish. I'd have liked more brilliance to the fruit than I found; the feel of the wine is a bit settled, and though this is in part due to the youthful tannic burr overshadowing the fruit, it's also due to lack of fruit.
1 star

Collosorbo
53020 Castelnuovo Abate - SI
http://www.collosorbo.com/

Collosorbo Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine with black reflection and brownish rim. Looks mature. The bouquet is rich, with slightly balsamic sour cherry fruit supported by deft acidity and green leather, with underlying hints of leaf tobacco and warm spice. Very nice balance in a traditional key. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful slightly sour cherry fruit that gains direction from slightly greenish acidity, supported by clean sweet slightly greenish tannins that have a peppery overlay and flow into a long clean berry fruit finish with a cedary tannic underpinning. It's quite young, and is still coming together, and though it will drink nicely now with succulent red meats, I would be tempted to give it another 2-3 years, because I think it will do very interesting things with time. In short, a wine to set aside and have patience with. Well worth seeking out if you like this style.
88-90

Collosorbo Brunello di Montalcino 2002
Deep almandine ruby with black reflections and slightly dusty almandine rim. The bouquet is closed, though swishing opens it nicely, bringing up wet leather and some bitter nutmeat accents mingled with bright peppery acidity, some prune, and hints of brown sugar. On the palate it's full, with fairly bright red berry fruit supported by clean slightly greenish sour cherry acidity and by ample sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly greenish finish with tannic underpinning and sour accents that continue at length. It's pleasant, and quite drinkable in a lesser key; it will drink well with red meats or light stews.
2 stars

Corte Pavone
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.loacker.net/

Corte Pavone Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and dark almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and frankly oaky, with cedar mingling with greenish accents and some bitter hardwood ash, while there is underlying cocoa and spice. Not much fruit. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful berry fruit that is supported by clean sweet tannins that owe an obvious allegiance to oak, displaying both cedar and sweet cocoa, while the wine is kept from settling by moderate sour cherry acidity, and the finish is long and fruit laced with cocoa overtones. It's going to be elegant in a distinctly international key, given the concentration of oak, but it needs at least a year if not two for the oak to fold into the wine. If you like the style you will like it, but you have to like heavily (and well) oaked wines.
2 stars

Donatella Cinedi Colombini
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.cinellicolombini.it/

Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Impenetrable black almandine ruby -- looks like poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense, and rather animal, with wet horse mingled with India ink bitterness and some balsamic notes, with underlying Moroccan leather; it has a certain distance to it and demands attention. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful cherry plum fruit that is quite soft, but gains direction from some plum acidity, while the tannins are large and smooth, and flow into a clean spicy slightly tannic finish with moderate fruit. It isn't as tight or as bright as I might have liked; the fruit is soft, lumbering some, and feels hotter than I generally associate with the 2001 vintage. A fellow taster who liked it better than I did says he thinks it's a wine to set aside and evaluate in a few year's time.
1 star

Donna Olga
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577849314

Donna Olga Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Black cherry ruby with black reflections and slight almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit laced with saddle leather and some spice. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by clean berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that lay an warm tannic burr over the tongue, flowing into a clean frankly tannic finish. It's very young, but bright, and will drink well with succulent red meats that beg a tannic bite to clear the palate now, though I think it will also age nicely for the next few years. I wasn't familiar with this winery, and it is a pleasant discovery. Traditional in style.
2 stars

Fattoi
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.fattoi.it

Fattoi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich and a little odd, with acidity and hints of mushroom mingled with sea salt and slight balsamic overtones; a fellow taster wondered about corkage, and was told all the bottles are like this. On the palate it's full, with bright slightly sour cherry fruit that gins direction from bright slightly balsamic cherry acidity, and flows into a clean berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. It's fairly direct, but will drink nicely with foods, and is also quite young; I think it could do quite interesting things with time, and would likely set it aside for a few years.
2 stars

Fornacina
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.cantinafornacina.it/

Fornacina Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with marzipan-laced red berry fruit supported by some balsamic notes, and clean spicy accents, in particular hints of sage. Inviting. On the palate it's full and bright, with lively red berry fruit supported by clean bracing tart cherry red currant acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly savory finish. It's very young, and the tannins will benefit from a year, though one could already drink it with a steak or hearty stew. I found it quite appealing in an up front sort of way; the Italian expression that comes to mind is a viso aperto, someone who looks at you honestly with nothing to hide, and it is a complement. Well worth seeking out.
2 stars

Franco Pacenti
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577 849277

Pacenti Franco Canalicchio Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine with brownish reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is delicate, with cherry fruit supported by saddle leather and dried flowers; it's more mature than some, but also quite graceful, almost willowy. On the palate it's full, with deft slightly leathery cherry fruit supported by ample sweet smooth tannins that flow into a clean slightly tannic finish with fruit underpinning. It's just a touch dry in the finish, though this is at a tasting, where there's no food to accompany the wine; if it were with a succulent roast or a hearty stew one wouldn't notice this at all. It's quite nice, and well worth seeking out if you prefer the more traditional style of Brunello, though I would not hurry into drinking it, because it will do very interesting things with time.
2 stars

Pacenti Franco Canalicchio Brunello di Montalcino 2002
Almandine with brownish black reflections and almandine rim, a color more in keeping with the vintage. The bouquet is ample, and delicate, with wet leather mingled with delicate dried floral accents and spice, with underlying nose tingling acidity and moderate fruit. On the palate it's fairly full, with moderate rather bitter berry fruit supported by bitterness more than acidity, and by ample tannins that are fairly smooth, and flow into a clean slightly sour berry fruit finish. It's very much a child of the vintage, displaying a pleasing lacy grace in a lesser key, and will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews.
1 star

Fuligni
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.empson.com

Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with warm Moroccan leather mingled with balsamic notes and some acidity, with underlying tart berry fruit; the overall feeling is rather lacy. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense berry fruit that atarts bright but then gives way to marked dry bitterness with a cedary bitter tannic underpinning with some smoky notes. It was promising, but the fruit was dried out to a degree by wood, and as it stands it's a bit disjointed. It may develop nicely with time, but time will tell.
1 star

Gianni Brunelli - Le Chiuse di Sotto
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.giannibrunelli.it

Gianni Brunelli - Le Chiuse di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep back almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cocoa and some spice mingled with moderate berry fruit and some underlying strawberry raspberry red fruit. Nice balance. On the palate it's full, with bright red berry fruit supported by deft citric acidity, and by ample smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean tannic finish. It's direct, and not long on subtlety, but will drink quite well with foods, ranging from hearty roasts thought light stews, and has the capacity to age nicely for at least a decade.
2 stars

Il Palazzone
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577 835678

Il Palazzone Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep, almost impenetrable black almandine with almandine in the rim. The bouquet is deft, with elegant dusky red berry fruit supported by some underbrush and Moroccan leather, with underlying balsamic spice and sea salt. Quite a bit going on, and pleasant to sniff in a traditional key. On the palate it's full, with bright, rich slightly sour cherry fruit that gains direction from acidity laced with graphite bitterness, and is supported by ample sweet rich tannins that flow into a fairly long lightly bitter cherry finish with tannic underpinning. It's elegant, though it needs another year at least in bottle, and will drink nicely with foods; those with the patience to wait -- a decade or more -- will be very nicely surprised. Worth seeking out if you like the more traditional style of Brunello.
2 stars

Il Palazzone Brunello di Montalcino 2002
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up some cedar. No fruit, and not much else, though with instance some tart notes creep out. On the palate it's a bit brighter than I expected, with moderately intense sour berry fruit supported by tannins that are quite cedary, and flow into a warm astringent finish with savory overtones. It somehow brings to mind a bird with a broken wing: It may struggle, but really doesn't get off the ground, though with respect to some of the other wines I liked the mouthfeel better. Because of its tartness and astringency it will drink well with succulent red meats.
1 star

Il Poggione
53020 S. Angelo in Colle - SI
http://www.tenutailpoggione.it

Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with licorice and wood smoke mingled with cedar and some spice, with underlying warmth. On the palate it's full, and fairly soft, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by slightly balsamic acidity and by clean sweet tannins that flow into a warm tannic finish. I found the fruit lacking, as a result it has a flattish feel to it.
1 star

Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino 2002
Deep black almandine with brownish black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is shut tight, though swishing brings up some iodine and slight bitterness, and more swishing slight acidity too. On the palate it's full, and languid, with moderately intense generic sour berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity, and by ample smooth tannins that gradually pull apart to reveal a warm peppery tannic burr that flows into a fairly long peppery tannic finish. It's big, and soft, and richer than many of the 02 wines, though it remains very much a child of the vintage, with its greenish aggressiveness. It will drink best with red meats.
1 star

Il Poggione Moscadello di Montalcino 2006
Pale brassy yellow with slightly greenish reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is elegant, with powerful honeydew melon mingled with freshly peeled Williams pear and underlying sweetness. Quite rich, and with time some gooseberry also emerges. On the palate it's full, soft, and rich, with pleasant sparkle supporting chewy granular white pear fruit that carries majestically into a long pear fruit finish. Sweetness in a glass, and you have to like sweet wines to enjoy it. Assuming you do, it's quite sensual, and will drink very well at poolside, or with a friend who also likes sweet wines in the evening, or, if you're really decadent, it will be nice over very good vanilla ice cream. In short, a beautiful lark that will bring much pleasure to the proper people in the proper setting.
2 stars

Innocenti
53028 Torrenieri - SI
Tel. 0577 834227

Innocenti Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some saddle leather mingled with spice and dried flowers. On the palate it's full and quite soft, with moderate cherry fruit that gains direction from slight sour cherry acidity, and is supported by ample rather laxly woven smooth tannins that flow into a long warm finish. It's frankly settled, and I'd have expected (and liked) much more fruit than I found.
1 star

La Colombina
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.lacolombinavini.it

La Colombina Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and some spice. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some berry fruit supported by Moroccan leather and some marzipan, with underlying peppery spice. Low key. On the palate it's full, and smooth, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly acidic finish with moderate fruit. It's an oddly flat wine, and I'd have liked greater life than I found.
1 star

La Fiorita
53020 Castelnuovo Abate - SI
http://www.fattorialafiorita.it

La Fiorita Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, and a bit unusual, with rich marzipan at first swish, which opens to reveal red berry fruit supported by pleasing herbal accents and deft spice. Pleasant. On the palate it's quite nice, with rich red berry fruit supported by deft cherry acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean rich berry fruit finish. The tannins are ample, moving like a wave, and quite smooth, though they also have a slight burr to them, and need another year ate least to settle into place; The wine is quite nice in an up-front key, and though it will drink well with foods now, it will smooth nicely with time, gaining slight animal accents that will give it further depth, and within a decade or so be something to drink far from the table.
2 stars

La Fiorita Brunello di Montalcino 2002
Deep black almandine that's quite dark considering the vintage, with brownish garnet rim; a colleague looks at it and says, "evoluto," i.e. well along in its maturity. The bouquet is a bit rustic, with horse hair mingled with wet leather and hardwood ash with underlying balsamic notes and prunes, with angry peppery acidity. On the palate it's full, with the fullness coming mostly from wood, with some plum prune fruit, but only some, and it flows into a clean plum finish. It feels overlarge for its fruit, which is surprisingly ripe given the vintage, and the overall impression is fairly empty.
1 star

La Fortuna
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.tenutalafortuna.it

La Fortuna Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with sour berry fruit, a mix of cherry and raspberry, supported by some herbal notes and menthol, and by clean alcohol and spice. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by brisk raspberry acidity, and by tannins that are smooth and sweet, with a core of steely velvet that is beginning to emerge, and lead into a clean slightly sour berry fruit finish. It's quite young, but promises very well; it will drink nicely now with succulent roasts or stews, and will do very interesting things with time, becoming lacy and delicate over the years. Worth seeking out if you like the fairly traditional style, and I would give it time.
2 stars

La Gerla
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.lagerla.it

La Gerla Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. Elegant bouquet with deft saddle leather mingled with warm balsamic notes, raspberry fruit and dried flowers. Quite bit going on in a graceful traditional key. On the palate it's full, with delicate cherry fruit that gains direction from raspberry acidity and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long warm sour berry fruit finish that gains depth from savory accents. Graceful, in a lacy sort of way, though very young; if you like the traditional style you will like it very much, though it needs at least a couple of years to get its bearings, and will continue to improve for many more. Drink it with succulent red meats -- a Porterhouse cut sounds nice -- but if you can stand to wait you will be richly rewarded.
2 stars

La Gerla Brunello di Montalcino 2002
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. Surprisingly dark. The bouquet is fairly rich, and disjointed, with sweetness mingled with hardwood ash and nose tingling spice with a fair amount of underlying cedar. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderate fairly sour berry fruit supported by tannins that are quite cedary, and flow into a clean very bitter finish. It's disjointed, and feels like it's going in several different directions at once. Because of its aggressive bitterness it will drink best with grilled meats, roasts, or stews.
1 star

La Lecciaia
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.lecciaia.com

La Lecciaia Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rustic, with animal notes and green leather shot through by animal tang. On the palate it's full, with much of the fullness coming from ample smooth tannins, while the fruit is fairly flat, a soft slightly balsamic cherry that lets the tannins do most of the work.
1 star

La Mannella
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.lamannella.it

La Mannella Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright berry fruit supported by balsamic acidity and delicate raspberry notes, while there is also spice, in particular menthol and hints of sage, mingled with some Moroccan leather. On the palate it's full, and a bit dry, with ample red berry fruit supported by tannins that lay a warm cedar trail over the tongue, and flow into a clean cedar laced finish. I found it a touch too dry.
1 star

La Poderina
53020 Castelnuovo Abate - SI
http://www.saiagricola.it/

La Poderina Poggio Banale Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and also aggressive, with balsamic notes mingled with hardwood ash and penetrating slighty greenish peppery spice. Not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense fruit supported by ample smooth tannins that have savory balsamic overtones and flow into a clean dry finish. It's dry, and the fruit feels tired; as does the warmth of the finish somehow, as if it ran out of steam.
1 star

La Poderina Moscadello di Montalcino
Brassy yellow with golden reflections and pale slightly greenish highlights. The bouquet is fairly intense, with biancospino gooseberry mingled with clover honey and saffron, and also heather from a cut field, with underlying sugars that are quite pronounced. In short, sweet. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful clover honey and honeydew melon laced with some vegetal notes and hints of candied apricot that flow into a rich sweet finish that gradually fades to dried apricots and peaches. It's very rich, and you have to be a devotee of sweet wines not to find it cloying, because there isn't that much acidity to hold the sweetness in check. In short, particular, and you have to like the style to like it. If you do you will like it very much.
1 star

La Serena
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577 848659

La Serena Gemini Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is powerful, with rich slightly greenish cherry fruit that has some red currant accents, and is supported by clean sweet cedar with some underbrush as well; harmonious and pleasing to sniff. On the palate it's full, with fairly powerful cherry fruit supported by tannins that lay a smooth glancing burr over the tongue, and flow into a clean rather tannic finish with some fruit overtones. It's very young, and I found it to be overly tannic; the cedar is frankly a bit angry and a bit too much for me.
1 star

La Torre
53020 S. Angelo in Colle - SI
Tel. 0577844073

La Torre Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with forest berry fruit supported by greenish spice and a fair amount of warmth, with some underbrush as well. On the palate it's full at the outset, though the fruit -- sour cherry -- rapidly deflates into a fairly astringent tannic finish with lasting warmth. I'd have liked greater persistence to the fruit, which starts out well but simply collapses. Because of it's dry tannic warmth it will drink well with succulent red meats, e.g. leg of lamb.
1 star

Lambardi
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577 848476

Lambardi Brunello di Montalcino 2002
Pale almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up some medicinal aromas -- iodine, mostly -- mingled with some cedar and hints of cumin. Nobody home, and this doesn't change with further swishing. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that lay a warm splintery burr over the tongue, and flow into a moderately long clean bitter finish with some earthy accents. It's weak, especially the nose, which is frankly shut down, and though the nose will likely perk up some with time the wine will still be the child of a weak vintage, and not much is going to change that. Drink it with flavorful red meats.
1 star

Le Chiuse
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.aziendaagricolalechiuse.it

Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though insisting brings up delicate leather-laced berry fruit mingled with delicate spice and alcoholic warmth. On the palate it's full, with fairly intense balsam-laced fruit supported by tart cherry acidity that rapidly surrenders to hot smooth tannins that have an angry burr, and flow into a clean decidedly tannic finish. It's dry, perhaps a little too dry now, but also quite young, and I would set it aside to give the tannins time to settle; it's a wine that works on the interplay between tannin and acidity, and there's quite enough acidity to give the tannins time. In short, I think it will be much more interesting in the future--5 to 10 years or more -- than it is now, and think it will be worth waiting for. The score reflects today.
1 star

Le Gode
53024 Montalclno - SI
http://www.legode.it/

Le Gode Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Impenetrable black almandine ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is eye opening, with a terrific rush of cedar with slight nutmeg and herbal overtones; it's like sniffing a barrel slat, and though there may be fruit under it it's not making it out; more sniffing brings up cocoa and some sweetness, but still little if any fruit. On the palate it's full, with moderate fruit that rapidly surrenders to tongue-bending cedar notes that carry though into a long blocky cedar finish. It's overoaked, at least for me.
1 star

Le Macioche
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://web.tiscalinet.it/macioche

Le Macioche Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflectiosn and almandine rim. The bouquet is delicate, with raspberry acidity mingling with delicate sour cherry fruit that gains in intensity, while underlying slight cedar and hints of balsam provide support. On the palate it's full, with bright cherry fruit supported by clean sour cherry acidity, and by ample sweet tannins that do a fine job of supporting, flowing into a clean sweet berry fruit finish that gains depth from dusky bitter overtones. It's quite nice, albeit very young, and will drink well with succulent red meats now, though it will also well reward those with the patience to wait a few years. Expect it to hold well for a decade or more.
2 stars

Lisini
5302D S. Angelo in Colle - Si
http://www.lisini.com/

Lisini Ugolaia Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and slightly overripe, with cherry that has some plum overtones, and moderate underlying warm balsamic acidity. On the palate it's full, and surprisingly languid, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit that gains direction from bitter graphite acidity, and is supported by tannins that lay a warm veneer over the tongue, and flow into a bitter tannic finish. My impressions are that it is very young, and that the tannins are unsettled; it needs at least a couple of years for them to come into line. Assuming they do, and they probably will, it will become quite interesting on down the line, but it needs the time to get where it's going. At present it's a stumbling toddler; give it at least 5 years before thinking about opening it, and expect it to hold for 15, at least.
2 stars

Marchesato degli Aleramici
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.marchesatodeglialeramici.it/

Marchesato degli Aleramici Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with delicate spice mingled with greenish accents. Not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with moderately rich plum cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by tannins that are ample and cedar-laced, and find themselves carrying the show more than they perhaps should; the finish is warm, tannic, and savory. Because of its tannic aggressiveness I would drink it with succulent red meats that beg something to clear the palate between bites.
1 star

Mastrojanni
53020 Castelnuovo Abate - SI
Tel. 0577 835681

Mastrojanni Schiena D'Asino Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and slightly brownish almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some hardwood ash and some hot iron. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by deft sour cherry-mineral acidity, and by tannins that are clean, but have an angry cedar-laced burr that carries through into a clean tannic finish. It's very young, and needs another year at least for the pieces to come together; when they do it will be pleasant in a middle of the road key, and work quite well with succulent red meats off the grill or our of the roasting pan, and will be nice with rich stews as well. But do give it time, and it will likely do very interesting things.
2 stars

Mocali
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577849485

Mocali Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright in a traditional key, with green leather mingling with leaf tobacco, carob seed, sea salt, hardwood ash, and delicate, slightly mineral acidity. On the palate it's full, and smooth, with moderately intense slightly sour berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that are fairly simple, and flow into a delicate finish. It's not as rich as I might have liked; the fruit is delicate but could be more concentrated, and the tannins could have more muscle than they show. This said it is elegant, and will drink nicely with succulent, not too fatty red meats now (e.g. roast beef cooked rare), and will age nicely, becoming lacy with time.
2 stars

Mocali Vigna Vigne Delle Raunate Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is shut tight, though swishing brings up some acidity and slight tart overtones mingled with red berry fruit and some Moroccan leather. It's a work in progress. On the palate it's full, but again with moderately intense fruit; it's bright raspberry, supported by moderate raspberry acidity, and by tannins that are ample, soft, and smooth, with a warm youthful burr than needs at least a year and perhaps more to settle in. It's going to be quite elegant in a lacy fairly traditional key, and if you like this style you will like it, but it needs at least a couple of years to get its bearings; at present it's stumbling a bit. In short, a toddler; with time it will be very nice, one of those wines you swish in the glass and think about.
2 stars

Palazzo
53024 Montalcino - SI
Telefono 0577 848479

Palazzo Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit mingled with marzipan and a fair amount of cedar, with spice and some savory notes as well. On the palate it's full, soft, and somewhat overripe, with cherry plum fruit supported by maple cedar-laced tannins that flow into a plum laced tannic finish. I found it to be a bit overripe, and also tannic; the tannins will smooth nicely with time, but the fruit is bit ripe, and this will continue. Bitter hardwood accents from the tannins too, and the overall impression is disjointed.
1 star

Piancornello
53020 Castelnuovo Abate - SI
Tel. 0577844105

Piancornello Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is medicinal, with iodine and sea salt mingling with bitter graphite, and moderate plum fruit with slight acidity. On the palate it's full and quite smooth, with frankly overripe cherry plum fruit supported by ample smooth sweet tannins that work from beneath the surface, while there is some acidity to keep it from settling into flab, and it all flows into a clean somewhat tannic plum finish. It's overripe to a degree that is surprising for 2001, and also big and soft; if you like this style you will enjoy it, but I found it atypical for Brunello, and found myself wishing for brighter, fresher fruit.
1 star

Poggio Antico
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.poggioantico.com/

Poggio Antico Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with an initial rush of cocoa mingled with sweetness that rapidly gives way to clean slightly smoky berry fruit with faint balsamic warmth and hints of wet straw. A fair amount going on, and it opens nicely. On the palate it's full, and rich, with bright cherry fruit supported by lively sour cherry acidity, and by ample sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly rich tannic berry fruit finish. It's still very young, and to be frank needs time, at least 2-3 years, to get its bearings. When it does it will be quite elegant in a middle of the road key, but we're not there yet. Give it time, and it will nicely reward you.
2 stars

Poggio dell'Aquila
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577848533

Poggio Dell'Aquila Brunello di Montalcino 2002
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up some spice mingled with cedar and moderate warmth. Not much fruit. On the palate it's a bit richer than I might have expected from the nose, with moderately rich cherry-raspberry barnyard tang supported by some raspberry acidity, while the tannins are large and smooth. The nose is a little behind the palate, though the overall impression is graceful, and not bad within the context of the 2002 vintage. I'd give it a year, and drink it with red meats, and it may develop nicely in a lacy low-key way with time.
1 star

Quercecchio
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.quercecchio.it/

Quercecchio Brunello di Montalcino 2002
Black almandine with black reflections and lm rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with sour berry fruit supported by some green leather and some spice. On the palate it's full, and soft, with ample sour cherry fruit supported by clean sour berry fruit acidity, and by smooth tannins that have clean slightly greenish overtones that flow into a clean sour tannic finish. It's a bit lax, but bright enough, and a pleasant expression of the vintage, though the nose needs another year to come together. Drink it with red meats, giving it the time the nose needs but not too much longer.
1 star

San Filippo
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.sanfilippomontalcino.com

San Filippo Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with delicate cherry fruit mingled with green leather and some balsamic accents, with underlying hardwood ash. On the palate it's full, and a bit overripe, with ample smooth soft cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean plum laced finish; there's sufficient acidity to keep it from flagging, but it is large and soft. If you like the style it will work well with drier meats. Because of its softness I wouldn't age it for too long.
1 star

San Polino
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577835775

San Polino Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by greenish cedar and clean spice. On the palate it's it's ample and smooth, with fairly bright cherry and forest berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are ample and quite smooth, flowing into a clean slightly dusky berry fruit finish. Pleasant in a large, soft, slightly overripe key, and will dink well with drier meats, including pot roasts and such.
2 stars

Santa Lucia
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.s-lucia.it

Santa Lucia Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Impenetrable black almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up some hardwood ash and sea salt with slight balsamic notes; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's full, and warm, with fairly powerful bright cherry fruit supported by clean sour cherry acidity, and by ample smooth soft tannins that flow into a clean rather peppery finish. It's big, and a bit soft for me; because of its softness it will drink well with drier meats.
1 star

Santa Giulia
53028 Torrenieri - SI
http://www.sgiulia.it

Santa Giulia Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep almandine ruby with brownish highlights and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with hardwood ash peppery notes mingled with spice, cedar, and delicate raspberry laced cherry fruit. On the palate it's full, and bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by deft sour cherry acidity that has some raspberry accents, and by ample smooth tannins that lead into a tart cherry finish with tannic underpinning. Pleasant, though a touch soft, and nicely balanced, with considerable life; it gives the impression of still coming together, and I would perhaps give it another year. Because of its combination of delicacy and ripe but not overripe fruit, it will work well with drier red meats, for example roast beef cooked medium, or a beef pot roast. It will likely keep 5-8 years, though I don't know how much longer.
2 stars

Sesti
53020 S. Angelo In Colle - SI
Tel. 0577844113

Sesti Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright cherry fruit supported by green leather and bitter hardwood ash spice. On the palate it's full, and bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity, which flows into a clean deft slightly sour cherry finish. It's direct, and a little soft, but will drink nicely with drier red meats served with rich gravies -- roast beef cooked rare, for example. Worth considering if you like larger, softer fruit driven wines.
1 star

Sesti Brunello di Montalcino 2002
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit wild, with animal notes mingled with balsam and warmth. Not much fruit. On the palate it's full, and soft, with ample fairly weak generic bitter fruit that has barely the acidity to provide it direction -- it's like a boat becalmed -- and ample smooth tannins that work into a warm tart finish. The structure feels overly large for the fruit.
No star

Solaria
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577 849426

Solaria Solaria Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, and a touch overripe, with jammy cherry and blackberry fruit supported by spice and some graphite shavings. Nice balance in a fairly traditional key. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity and dusky bitterness, while the tannins are smooth ad sweet, leading into a clean fairly rich berry fruit finish. Graceful, in a fairly traditional key, and will drink well with succulent red meats or light stews, though I would give it another year before I opened the bottle, and would expect it to age nicely for up to a decade.
2 stars

Solaria Brunello di Montalcino 2002
Black almandine ruby that's surprisingly dark given the vintage. The bouquet is shut down tight; nothing emerges other than slight tartness. On the palate it's full, and soft, with ample fairly tart berry fruit that gains direction from moderate acidity, and is supported by big cedar-laced tannins that flow into a strikingly dry finish. Too much wood and too little fruit at the outset, and now we have a great deal of astringency.
No star

Talenti
53020 S. Angelo In Colle - SI
http://www.talentimontalcino.it

Talenti Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with fairly intense rather sour cherry fruit mingled with green leather, hardwood ash, cedar, and smoky acidity. A fair amount going on, though it's very much in mid-stride. On the palate it's full, and soft, with fairly intense red cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly sour berry fruit-prune finish with a long tannic underpinning. It seems a touch flat because the tannins have still not settled into the wine; it needs at least a year, and probably two to get its balance, and will age nicely for may years thereafter, and drinking nicely with red meats.
2 stars

Talenti Brunello di Montalcino 2002
Deep black almandine ruby -- surprisingly dark given the vintage -- with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit wild, with cedar and nose tingling acidity mingled with slight animal tang and some cool accents. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense plum berry fruit that is supported by tannins that have a hot cedary burr, and it's the burr more than acidity that guides the wine into a bitter slightly smoky finish. It's disjointed, and going in several directions at once.
No star

Tenimenti Angelini - Val di Suga
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.tenimentiangelini.it

Tenimenti Angelini Spuntali Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, brambly even, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by brambly overtones and some tart sour berry fruit acidity, with cedar as well. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by brightbf acidity, and by tannins that suck all the moisture from the tongue on the way to a hot tannic finish, leaving it bone dry and wondering what happened. I'm not sure how much this astringency will fade with time, but because of it the wine will work well with fattier grilled meats or roasts that beg something to clear the palate between bites. In short, particular, and you have to like the style and have the proper occasion for it.
1 star

Tenimenti Angelini Brunello di Montalcino 2002
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some cedar mingled with wet leather and sea salt, with underlying prune fruit. On the palate it's full, and a bit richer than I expected from the nose, with unusual (for the vintage) very ripe plum fruit that gains support and direction from moderate acidity, and from decidedly peppery tannins that flow into a warm tannic finish. It's big, and fairly soft, and frankly not what I expect from a Brunello, which should have much more body and command than this wine does.
1 star

Tenuta Caparzo
53028 Torrenieri - SI
http://www.caparzo.com/

Tenuta Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Almandine ruby with brownish highlights and almandine rim. The bouquet is closed, with some cedar and berry fruit mingled with oak. On the palate it's full and soft, with ample cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a plum laced finish that gains life from fairly lively berry fruit acidity, while the tannins lay a warm veneer over the tongue. I'd have liked greater depth and richness to the fruit, with is a bit overripe and has a tired feel to it.
1 star

Tenuta Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino 2002
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit smoky, with some medicinal accents, and slight sea salt. On the palate it's full, and soft, with ample cherry plum fruit that's a bit odd given the vintage, supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly bitter finish. It's direct, and soft for a Brunello, a wine that is clearly the expression of a difficult vintage, though I don't know I would have guessed a cold wet one given the ripeness of the fruit. Because of its softness it will drink with drier meats.
1 star

Tenuta di Sesta
53020 Castelnuovo Abate - SI
http://www.tenutadisesta.it/

Tenuta di Sesta Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black lam r with black reflections an brownish almandine rim. The bouquet is frankly wild, one of the only at this tasting, with balsamic notes and wet tree bark mingling with spice and wood smoke. On the palate it's medium bodied, and fairly full, with lax red berry fruit supported by ample smooth tannins that flow into a warm rather bitter tannic finish. Direct, and will drink well with drier meats. I'd have liked greater depth and brightness.
1 star

Tenuta Greppone Mazzi
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.ruffino.it

Tenuta Greppone Mazzi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with an initial rush of greenish spice mingled with berry fruit that has some peppery accents. On the palate it's full, with delicate red berry fruit supported by clean sweet tannins, while the direction comes from sour cherry acidity that flows into a clean fairly rich berry fruit finish with a strong dry tannic underpinning. Deft, and delicate in a traditional key, and will drink nicely with foods, though it needs another 2-3 years to get its bearings and stand up. I expect it to do very interesting things in the future, though at present it's an infant. The score reflects the present, not what it may become.
2 stars

Tenuta La Fuga
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.tenutefolonari.com

Tenuta La Fuga Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Lively almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up delicate raspberry berry fruit mingled with dried floral accents and pleasing spice. On the palate it's full, with bright cherry fruit supported nicely by sour cherry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean tannin laced sour berry fruit finish. Deft, in a bright key, and will work very nicely with foods, though I would give it another couple of years to get its bearings because it is very young. It has quite a bit to say, and a long life ahead of it.
2 stars

Tenuta Oliveto
53020 Castelnuovo Abate - SI
Tel. 0577 807170

Tenuta Oliveto Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is bright, with sweet cherry and berry fruit with unusual hints of brown sugar and spice. Quite rich. On the palate it's full, and soft, and frankly sweet, with ample sweetish cherry fruit supported by clean sweet tannins and a sweet finish that flows into a brown sugar finish. Quite unusual, in a soft key, and if you like this rich rather sweet style (it's what this winemaker does -- his wines are like this year after year), you will enjoy it. But it's not typical of Brunello, and because of its structure will work with drier meats.
1 star

Tenuta Vitanza
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.tenutavitanza.it/

Tenuta Vitanza Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections. The bouquet is smoky, with some plum berry fruit jam and slight balsamic notes, and greenish overtones. Pungent. On the palate it's full, soft, and fairly rich, with ample cherry and plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that work from below the surface, while there is also some acidity to keep it from flagging. It's quite soft, and I'd have expected more from a Brunello Riserva, to be honest.
1 star

Tenuta San Giorgio
53020 Castelnuovo Abate - SI
http://www.tenutasangiorgio.it

Tenuta San Giorgio Brunello di Montalcino 2002
Deep black almandine ruby with brownish almandine reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up some wet leather mingled with slight balsam and sea salt with iodine undertones. On the palate it's full, and surprisingly sweet, with ample plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean soft plum laced slightly smoky finish. It's not what I would expect from a cool wet summer -- much too rich and much too ripe, and I wonder what happened. Because of its ample softness it will drink well with drier meats.
1 star

Tenute Silvio Nardi
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.tenutenardi.com

Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcion 2002
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. Quite dark. The bouquet is fairly intense, and medicinal, with iodine and some eucalyptus mingled with sea salt and some hardwood ash, with nose tingling acidity as well. I'd have liked more. On the palate it's full, and quite soft, with ample plum cherry fruit that is supported by smooth sweet tannins, and it all flows into a clean plum-laced finish. It's unusual given the context of a wet cold summer, but will drink well in an ample smooth soft way, and if you like this sort of big fruit driven wine, it will work well with drier meats. It's not quite what I expect of a Brunello.
1 star

Terralsole
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.terralsole.com

Terralsole Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with fairly intense red berry fruit supported by clean smooth balsamic notes and some Moroccan leather. On the palate it's ample, and smooth, with bright cherry fruit that gains direction from clean acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean smooth berry fruit finish that has some ripe plum overtones. Up front, and quite welcoming; it's also young, and though one could wait for it to do interesting things (and it will) with time, it will be nice now with a hearty stew or a succulent roast. It's one of those wines that will go quickly, because it's enjoyable to drink.
2 stars

Tornesi
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577848689

Tornesi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by clean berry fruit acidity and by deft spice. On the palate it's equally pleasant, with lively cherry fruit that gains direction from brisk cherry acidity, and is supported by smooth youthful tannins that flow into a clean deft berry fruit finish. Quite nice, though young, and will drink very well with foods, though those with the patience to give it a few years will be richly rewarded. Drink it wuth grilled meats, roasts, or stews. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Tornesi Brunello di Montalcino 2002
Deep black almandine with slightly brownish almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with wet leather mingled with some hints of stable straw and slight wet horse, with underlying sea salt and some bitter iodine. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly graceful sour berry fruit that gains direction from clean bitter acidity, and flows into a clean fairly savory bitter finish with tannic underpinning and lasting acidity. It's a nice expression of the vintage, with a simple directness to it, and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

Uccelliera
53020 Castelnuovo Abate - SI
http://www.uccelliera-montalcino.it

Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim with slight brownish overtones. The bouquet is bright, with berry fruit mingled with brambly spice and some hardwood ash; it gives an impression of being in mid stride. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by moderately intense berry fruit acidity that gives way to cedar in the mid palate, and flows into a frankly cedar-laced finish. I'd have liked a greater richness of fruit; though the tannins will smooth, what's not there will not appear.
1 star

Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino 2002
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit wild, with balsam and stable straw mingling with warm acidity and wet leather, and slight hints prune. On the palate it's full, with smoky balsamic red berry fruit that gains pleasing direction from warm balsamic acidity, and is supported by ample sweet tannins that flow into a clean sour balsamic finish. It's a bit rustic, but displays considerable character, and will drink nicely with red meats. A nice expression of a difficult vintage in a traditional, old-fashioned even, style. It will drink well with red meats off the grill or out of the oven. Something to consider if you like this rustic style.
2 stars

Valdicava
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.valdicava.com

Valdicava Madonna Del Piano Brunello Riserva 2001
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with almandine in the rim The bouquet is rich, elegant, and vinous, with powerful red berry fruit supported by deft acidity, and by clean alcohol. Welcoming, and very fresh. On the palate it's full and quite smooth, with powerful red berry fruit that gains direction from deft acidity, and is supported by clean sweet tannins that have a silky feel to them and flow into a clean rich berry fruit finish with some cedar overtones. An elegant food wine that will drink very well with roasted red meats of a certain import. A crown roast, for example. Expect it to age well for a decade or more.
90

Villa Poggio Salvi
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577 848486

Villa Poggio Salvi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Black almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is rich, with slightly greenish berry fruit supported by clean peppery spice with some pencil shavings; it's nicely defined but a touch direct. On the palate it's Full, with fairly powerful red berry fruit supported by tannins that are warm and cedary, leaving a savory trail over the tongue. It's been dried by the wood, and is a bit flatter than I might have liked; this sort of thing was more common in the past when the wines had to spend 4 years in wood than it is now.
1 star

Villa Poggio Salvi Moscadello Di Montalcino
Pale brassy gold with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is powerful, with considerable sweetness mingled with eucalyptus, some hot oatmeal, and intriguing greenish candied honeydew melon overtones. Quite a bit going on in a fairly brash key. On the palate it's full, and sweet, with bright candied melon rind fruit that gains direction from vegetal acidity, and flows into a clean cool vegetal finish. It's unusual, and is a wine you will either like or not; it's more towards the curvy turgidly starlet-in a-glass southern passiti than it is towards the Tuscan vinsanto in terms of feel. If you like the style you will like it, but you have to like the style because it's not about to adapt.
1 star