Tuesday, June 26, 2007

The 2004 Barbaresco, Tasted at Alba Wines

Barbaresco is made downriver from Alba, on the right bank of the Tanaro River. 2004 was just a fine vintage for Barbaresco, and the wines display considerable elegance and finesse, coupled with supple muscle. It's a powerful vintage, and the wines tend to be very young: While one could press them into service now with rich red meats, almost all will benefit considerably from another year or two of bottle age, and many will continue to climb for a decade or more. In short, the 2004 Barbaresco offers much to enjoy.

If one were to pick nits, Carlo Macchi of Wine Surf found some of the wines to be slightly dilute, and wonders how long they will age; he says the situation arose because the farmers, who are still smarting from the hail, rain, and heat that befell them in 2002 and 2003, were hesitant to carry out a vigorous green harvest in 2004 for fear that the shoe would drop yet again. I did not note this as much, and think the lighter expressions, which are still quite pleasant, will simply drink well with lighter foods.

The wines, Tasted May 7 and 8 2007:

Azienda Agricola Abrigo Orlando
Via Cappelletto 5
Treiso (CN)
http://www.orlandoabrigo.it

Abrigo Orlando Vigna Montersino Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with sour berry fruit supported by greenish accents and spice, with some cedar too. On the palate it's full, with rich red berry fruit supported by clean slightly citric acidity, and by ample sweet tannins that flow into a clean smooth finish. Elegant, and will drink very well with succulent red meats -- a porterhouse cut comes to mind, though it's not Piemontese -- though I might be tempted to set it aside for a few years. Worth seeking out, and expect it to do very nice things.
2 stars

Abrigo Orlando Vigna Rongallo Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents mingled with red berry fruit and some spice. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by moderate spice and sweet tannins that flow into a clean smooth finish. It's pleasant, but not as well defined as I might have liked; it has a lumbering feel to it and I found myself wishing it were more on its toes. This said, it will drink well with red meats, either stewed or roasted.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Cà del Baio -- Cascina Valle Granda
Via Ferrere 33
Treiso (CN)
http://www.cadelbaio.com

Cà del Baio - Cascina Vallegranda Valgrande Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rather green, with vegetal notes -- almost artichoke -- mingled with spice, and not much in the way of fruit. It gives an impression of considerable youth too, and Nebbiolo can be fairly vegetal. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity, and by tannins that are smooth and savory, while laying a clean burr over the tongue. I'd have liked greater richness to the fruit, which is a touch flat. It will in any case drink well with succulent red meats, and will age nicely, becoming lacy with time. In short, a wine to set aside.
2 stars

Cà del Baio - Cascina Vallegranda Asili Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with bitter oaky notes mingled with cocoa and some yellow peach, but not much else in the way of fruit. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by some acidity, and by tremendous bitter tannins that flow into a hot tannic finish. It's very young, and needs at least a couple of years to get its bearings, though it will benefit from more time, and age well for a decade or more. I think it will clean up nicely.
2 stars


La Ganghija Azienda Agricola Di Rapalino Enzo
Viale Rimembranza, 11
12050 Treiso (CN)
Tel. 0173 638176

La Ganghija Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is muted to a degree, though there is cedar mingled with ripe plum, and some sea salt as well. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense rather mineral plum cherry fruit supported by warm mineral acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean mineral finish. It's fairly direct, and I found myself wanting more depth, and greater richness of fruit; because of its rather dry tannic structure it will drink well with fattier meats.
1 star

La Spinetta
Via Annunziata 17
14054 Castagnole Lanze (AT)
http://www.la-spinetta.com/

La Spinetta Vigneto Valeirano Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish accents that bring watermelon rind to mind mingled with plum fruit and spice, with some underlying cedar. Quite a lot going on, in a very young key, and it's still developing. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by moderate cherry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean deft berry fruit finish with cedar-laced tannic underpinning. Pleasant, though it needs a couple of years to really come together; it will drink quite well with red meats, in particular roasts or stews, and will age quite well. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

La Spinetta Vigneto Starderi Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Almandine ruby with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with floral accents mingled with green leather and underbrush, with underlying spice.; the overall effect is fairly bright. On the palate it's full, with bright berry fruit supported by clean tart acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly tart brambly finish. It's pleasant, in a distinctly traditional key, and will drink well with stews or roasts, though I would give it a few years to develop, because it's quite young now. I found it growing upon me.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola F.lli Molino
Via Ausario
Treiso (CN)
Tel 0173 638 384

Molino Ausario Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Fairly deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with greenish vegetal notes mingled with red berry fruit and some spice; the overall impression is harmonious. On the palate it's full, with bright red berry fruit supported by clean slightly greenish acidity and by ample sweet tannins that flow into a clean berry fruit finish. Elegant, and bracingly youthful; it exhibits considerable vitality of the sort one associates with the teen years, and will drink very well with succulent grilled red meats or roasts now; expect it to age nicely for a decade or more too.
88-90

Molino Teorema Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Black almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit supported by spice and alcohol, with some greenish accents and hints of underbrush as well. On the palate it's full, with bright cherry fruit that gains direction from delicate cherry acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that are fairly light -- not much smoothness from oak here -- and flow into a clean berry fruit finish. Quite traditional, and will drink well now with red meats, though it will also reward those with the patience to give it time, because it will be come lacy with age, and have a great deal to say. Impressive.
90

Azienda Agricola Ada Nada
Via Ausario 12 Località Rombone
Treiso (CN)
http://www.adanada.it

Nada Ada Cichin Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, and a bit off putting, with singed leather mingled with spice and some ripe berry fruit. On the palate it's warm, with moderate berry fruit supported by warm cedar-laced acidity that flows into a warm finish. It isn't really off, but isn't exciting either, and I found myself wanting more.
1 star

Nada Ada Valeirano Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Black almandine with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with green leather and spice mingling with rosa canina and some red berry fruit, with underlying greenish accents; it's in a state of flux. On the palate it's ample, and full, with bright red berry fruit that gains direction from clean tart berry fruit acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean deft sour berry fruit finish. It's quite young, and will age very well, though one could enjoy it now with succulent red meats -- a porterhouse would be nice, as would leg of lamb, or venison. If you like this style you will like it very much, and even if you subscribe to the "red wines should be low in acidity" school you'll find things to ponder over here. Expect it to age well for a decade or more.
88-90

Azienda Agricola Vitivinicola Pelissero
Via Ferrere 10
Treiso (CN)
http://www.pelissero.com

Pelissero Nubiola Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with green leather mingled with some singed overtones and white glue, and also sea slat; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with moderate fruit supported by savory tannins that flow into a clean savory finish with bitter accents; I'd have liked more fruit than I found.
1 star

Cantina Vignaioli Elvio Pertinace
Località Pertinace 2
Treiso (CN)
Tel 0173 442 238

Pertinace Vigneto Marcarini Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Black garnet with black reflections. The bouquet is leathery, with some cherry and plum fruit that emerges from under the tarp, as it were, and greenish accents too. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderate slightly bitter fruit supported by clean brambly acidity that flows into clean greenish overtones. I'd have liked greater richness to the fruit than I found; it's a little weak, and a bit tannic.
1 star

Pertinace Vigneto Nervo Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Almandine with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is a bit wild, with barnyard tang mingled with savory accents, deft acidity, and greenish overtones; if you like this style it is pleasant, but if you prefer more fruit driven wines it won't work for you. On the palate it's full, with bright slightly sour cherry fruit supported by sour plum acidity, and by clean sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly greenish sour finish. Pleasant, in a very traditional key, and will drink well with succulent red meats or light stews, though I would give it a couple of years to get its bearings, and expect it to age well for a decade or more. Worth seeking out if you like this more traditional style.
2 stars

Azienda Vitivinicola Rizzi
Via Rizzi 15
Treiso (CN)
http://www.cantinarizzi.it

Rizzi Pajorè Suran Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is oddly dilute; it brings to mind something that has had water added to it, somehow. This said, it has greenish accents mingled with spice, green leather, and some underbrush, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate sour cherry fruit supported by a combination of cherry fruit acidity and tannins that have a brambly greenish burr; the overall impression is fairly lax and I found myself wanting better definition.
1 star

Rizzi Nervo Fondetta Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Almandine with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with frankly vegetal accents mingled with some spice and brambles, but not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied and lax, with moderate fruit supported by ample smooth sweet tannins that gain direction from moderate acidity; the impression that comes to mind is a rug that extends out covering the floor, but it doesn't reach up as it were -- it lays low.
1 star

Vigin Azienda Agricola
Via Meruzzano, 33/a
12050 Treiso (Cuneo)
Tel. 0173 638210

Vigin Noemy Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Black almandine with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is frankly oaky, with considerable cedar and greenish accents from wood. Not much fruit. The palate reflects the nose; there's moderate plum cherry fruit that has soft bitter accents, and it's supported by moderate mineral acidity, and tannins that have a oaky feel to them. One has an impression of the fruit nimbly hop-skotching away, leaving everything else to do as best it could.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Adriano Marco E Vittorio
Fraz.ne San Rocco Seno d'Elvio, 13/a
12051 Alba (Cuneo)
http://www.adrianovini.it

Adriano Marco e Vittorio Basarin Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with an intriguing mixture of animal notes -- wet stable straw -- and greenish overtones; there isn't much fruit, but it is interesting. On the palate it's full, with moderate red berry fruit supported by decidedly mineral acidity -- it's almost glancing -- and by tannins that have a splintery feel to them and lead into a bitter finish. I'd have expected something brighter from the nose than I found on the palate. It will drink well with red meats, but I'd like more from a Barbaresco.
1 star

Adriano Marco e Vittorio Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with alcohol and bitter berry fruit mingled with bitter notes that bring shade to mind, and underlying hardwood ash. There's something brooding about it. On the palate it's full, and bitter, with considerable oak that overshadows the fruit, laying a bitter sour trail over the tongue and flowing into a bitter finish. Oaky, with the wood overshadowing the fruit at present; though it may fold in with time, it also may not.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Antichi Poderi dei Gallina
Via Tanaro 45
Neive (CN)
http:// www.franconevini.com

Antichi Poderi dei Gallina Vigneto Gallina L'Ciaciaret Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with green leather and some rosa canina mingled with spice, and savory accents, though there isn't much fruit per se. On the palate it's bright, with lively, almost brambly berry fruit supported by clan sour berry fruit acidity, and by ample tannins that have a warm slightly angular burr to them, and flow into a clean slightly bitter finish. It's pleasant, in a traditional key, and will dink well with succulent red meats or light stews; if one were to look for a defect (and that's our job), it's fairly direct. But it will also age nicely over a decade or more.
2 stars

Battaglio Azienda Vitivinicola
Via Salerio, 15 12040
Vezza D'Alba (CN)
http://www.battaglio.com

Battaglio Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with greenish vegetal notes mingled with spice and cedar; it's quite young and at present the wood is overshadowing some. On the palate it's full, with moderately rich frankly mineral acidity -- there isn't much fruit -- supported by clean sweet tannins that lead into a savory finish; I'd have liked greater fruit than I found, though the wine will drink well with succulent meats.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Bonino
Via Rio Sordo 11
Barbaresco (CN)
http://www.aziendaagricolabonino.com/

Bonino Romano Sorì Basarin Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is rich, with candied, almost mentholated fruit that gives an (illusionary) impression of sweetness; it brings to mind a Moscato di Scanza, almost, though here we have yellow peach accents too. Unusual for a Barbaresco. On the palate it's full, and languid, with rich plum cherry fruit that has yellow peach accents, and a tannic bitterness that adds depth but distracts from what the fruit is doing. A bit odd, and this said it will drink well with succulent red meats, but to be honest, if someone asked me to identify the varietal blind I'm not sure I'd have said Nebbiolo.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Cantina del Bricchetto di Franco Rocca
V. Bricchetto, 4
12057 Neive (Cuneo)
http://www.cantinadelbricchetto.com/

Cantina del Bricchetto Albesani Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is greenish, with moderate spice and considerable cedar mingled with some berry fruit, but not much. Not quite like sniffing a cedar chest, but in that direction. On the palate it's a bit thinner than one might have expected, with moderate berry fruit supported by considerable cedar that flows into a clean cedar laced finish. Too much oak for me, and it overshadows the fruit. At least now; I would give it at least a couple of years.
1 star

Cascina Luisin
Via Rabajà 23
Barbaresco (CN)
Tel 0173 635 154

Cascina Luisin Sorì Paolin Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with green leather and spice mingled with some red berry fruit and greenish accents. On the palate it's fairly bright, with greenish berry fruit supported by moderate acidity; it'd have liked more richness than I found, though it will drink well with succulent red meats, and will age nicely for a number of years. In short, it is a wine that could reserve some nice surprises; I found it growing upon me.
2 stars

Cascina Luisin Rabayà Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Almandine with brownish black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up warmth and some rosa canina mingled with acidity and underlying red berry fruit. On the palate it's full, and smooth, with ample rather tart berry fruit that gains direction from sour cherry acidity, and is supported by ample smooth tannins that have a youthful burr to them, and flow into a clean tannic finish. It's fairly direct, and though this is in part a factor of youth, it's also the wine; in terms of style it's fairly traditional, and will drink well with succulent red meats or stews. With time it will become lacy, I think.
2 stars

Fattoria San Giuliano
Via Circonvallazione 14
Neive (CN)
Tel 0173 67364

Fattoria San Giuliano Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with yellow peaches and some herbal accents laced with alcohol and hints of red berry fruit. Nice balance. On the palate it's full, with rich red berry fruit that gains direction from clean sour cherry acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean tart finish. It's quick to write but quite nice in a youthful key; it will develop quite nicely with time, and age well for a decade or more. Worth seeking out; if you must drink it now, a porterhouse steak would be nice.
2 stars

Filippino Domenico Azienda Vitivinicola Di Elio Filippino
Fraz. Serra Capelli, 5
12052 Neive (CN)
http://www.eliofilippino.com

Filippino San Cristoforo Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Black almandine with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with acidity and some greenish accents mingled with green leather, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense fruit supported by ample sweet tannins and moderate acidity; it's rather flat and I found myself wanting greater brightness from the wine.
1 star

Filippino Sorì Cappelli Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately rich, and rather vegetal, with some berry fruit as well, but to a greater degree cedar. On the palate it's brighter than I might have expected, with sour berry fruit supported by tart sour cherry acidity, and by tannins that have a dusky almost graphite burr, and flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish. It's a child in the woods, and needs time, at which point it may clean up quite nicely. But now it's all over the place, and it needs to come together. The score reflects the present.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Fontanabianca
Via Bordini 15
Neive (CN)
Tel 0173 67 195

Fontanabianca Sorì Burdin Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and slight vegetal, with moderate berry fruit. The palate is fairly rich too, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by warm cedar-laced tannins that flow into a clean dry finish. It's quote young, and promises nicely, though it does need a year or two. The score reflects its youthful immaturity.
1 star

Giacosa F.lli SNC
Via XX Settembre 64
Neive (CN)
http://www.giacosa.it

Giacosa F.lli Basarin Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine r with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with green leather and some hot iron mingled with underlying berry fruit, and (says a fellow taster) savory overtones. On the palate it's medium bodied, and fairly soft, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by clean savory tannins that flow into a savory finish. I'd have liked greater richness of fruit than I found.
1 star

Giacosa F.lli Gianmattè Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with green leather mingled with spice and warmth, and some underlying herbal notes, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and deft cedar-laced tannins that flow into a clean berry fruit berry fruit finish. It's fairly direct, and will drink well with succulent red meats or stews. Expect it to age nicely for a number of years.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola La Contea
Vicolo Asilo 13
Neive (CN)
Tel. 0173 677 585
http://www.la-contea.it

La Contea Ripa Sorita Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep garnet with black reflections and garnet rim. The bouquet is moderately rich, with herbal notes and some spice supported by clean roses and underlying berry fruit. A lot going on, and young too. On the palate it's full, with bright red berry fruit supported by lively sour berry fruit acidity, and by ample smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly greenish tannic finish. Quite nice in a direct, fairly traditional key, and will drink well with succulent roasts or stews, and also contribute nicely to a platter of mixed grilled meats. If you like this style you will enjoy it, and it will age well for many years.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Moccagatta
Via Rabajà 24
Barbaresco (CN)
http://www.marcdegrazia.com/mdg/ing/scheda_produ.jsp?KProduttori=31&lingua=ING

Moccagatta Basarin Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep garnet ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, in a greenish key, with clean spice and some vegetal accents; it's fairly green, but pleasant. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderate red berry fruit supported by clean savory tannins and warm citric acidity that flow into a clean berry fruit finish. Pleasant, though I'd have liked a little better definition to the fruit, which is a little lax.
1 star

Moccagatta Bric Balin Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is unusual, with rhubarb mingled with hints of pistachio nuts and some sweetness; with more swishing yellow peaches also emerge. On the palate an initial burst of warm cherry fruit is chopped off at the knees by a tannic wave that rears up and coats all; flowing into a quick dry tannic finish. Tremendously tannic, and this is a result of woeful youth; though tannins will fold in with time, it will take many years for them to do so here. Because of its aggressive dryness it will work well in the short term with succulent, even quite fatty red meats, but I would give it time. The score reflects today.
1 star

At the post-tasting presentation on the afternoon of May 7, Moccagatta presented several other wines, including:

Mocagatta Barbaresco 1971
This is a historic vintage; the wine is deep brownish almandine rim. The bouquet is a trifle musty with savory notes and sea salt mingled in with balsam and dried mushrooms. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful fairly sweet balsam-laced fruit (more dried than fresh) supported by deft acidity and smooth sweet tannins whose warm burr flows into a clean warm finish. Bottles this old are stories unto themselves, and in this case the cork may not have been quite perfect, but the wine was quite interesting, and had a great deal yet to say. In short, it's something for a wine lover to savor with like-minded friends.

Moccagatta Barbaresco Bric Balin 2000
Ruby almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with leathery notes and balsam mingled with pleasant spice and leaf tobacco. Quite elegant in a rather haunting key. On the palate it's full, and rich, with considerable warmth and fairly rich fruit supported by tannins that have a warm savory burr and flow into a clean fairly tannic finish. Quite nice, though the heat of August 2000 is evident in the tannins, which are more brittle than they might be in a more balanced year.
2 stars

Moccagatta Barbaresco Bric Balin 2003
Garnet with almandine rim. The bouquet is warm, with savory accents and spice mingled with some balsam and underlying tartness bolstered by clean acidity. On the palate it's full, and quite soft with ample sweetish strawberry laced berry fruit supported by warm clean tannins that flow into a clean deft finish with tannic underpinning. Quite nice, though it does reflect the vintage in its softness. But it does have backbone, and will work well with red meats or creamy stews. As I think back to how hot 2003 was, I'm impressed.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Monteribaldi
Via Rio Sordo 30/A
Barbaresco (CN)
Tel 0173 638 220

Monteribaldi Palazzina Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Almandine with black reflections and black cherry rim. The bouquet is slightly greenish, with spice and some green leather mingled with berry fruit and some plum. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit supported by clean slightly tart tannins that flow into a clean berry tart berry fruit finish. Pleasant, though I'd have liked a little more fruit than I found.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Negro Angelo e Figli
Frazione Sant'Anna
Monteu Roero (CN)
http://www.negroangelo.it

Negro Angelo e Figli Basarin Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, and greenish, with some spice and underlying berry fruit, though the greenish accents predominate. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderate red berry fruit supported by some tart berry fruit acidity, and by clean fairly smooth tannins with oaky accents. It's very young, has a bit more oak than some, and gives an impression of feeling its way forward. Needs a year or two at least.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Paitin
Via Serra Boella 20
Neive (CN)
http://www.paitin. It

Paitin Sorì Paitin Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is rather green, with watermelon rind mingled with some sweetness and berry fruit overtones. On the palate it's full, with moderately rich slightly green berry fruit supported by clean bitter tannins that flow into a clean tannic finish. It needs at least a year and perhaps two for the tannins to begin to fold in. I expect they will always display something of a bite, while the wine will drink best with succulent red meats and other foods that benefit from this sort of structure.
1 star

Azienda Vinicola Palladino
Piazza Cappellano 9
Serralunga D'Alba (CN)
Tel 0173 613 108

Palladino Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is slightly greenish, with some spice and greenish overtones, but not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly bright red berry fruit supported by clean sour cherry acidity, and by tannins that have a lively youthful burr and flow into a clean bright finish. It's direct, and quite young, and will drink well now with succulent red meats off the grill or out of the oven. With time it may also do interesting things, though time will tell.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Prinsi
Via Gaia 5
Neive (CN)
Tel 0173 67192

Prinsi Gallina Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is frankly oaky -- a fellow taster says oaky chocolate -- with some greenish cedar accents thrown in. Oak. On the palate it's ample, smooth, and soft, with considerable oak in the tannic structure, which resolves into bitter cedar, while what fruit there is -- cherry -- fades as the wine flows into the finish.
1 star

Punset di Marcarino Marina
Frazione Moretta 5
Neive (CN)
Tel 0173 670 702
http://www.punset.com

Punset Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is a bit wild, with animal tang -- horse stable straw -- mingled with underbrush and a fair amount of acidity. On the palate it's full, with bright tart cherry fruit supported by bitter accents and ample tannins that flow into a clean bitter finish with savory overtones. If you like fairly aggressive, traditional wines, you will enjoy it, but you have to like this style. It will work well with succulent red meats.
2 stars

Punset Campo Quadro Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep almandine ruby with Moroccan leather reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is is fairly rich, with bright sour berry fruit supported by greenish accents and some vegetal notes; it's fairly rich in a traditional key and bright. On the palate it's full, with bright sour cherry acidity and sour berry fruit supported by moderately intense tannins that have a greenish burr to them and flow into a warm tannic finish. It's a bit rustic, and quite traditional, and if you like the style you will enjoy it; expect it to become lacy with time too, improving considerably.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Ressia
Via Canova 28
Neive (CN)
Tel 0173 677 305
http://www.ressia.com

Ressia Fabrizio Canova Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep garnet ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is greenish, with spice and some red berry fruit mingled with oak and some underbrush. On the palate it's full, with bright berry fruit supported by lively sour cherry acidity and clean smooth tannins that flow into a long clean berry fruit finish. Pleasant, in a slightly scrappy key, and will drink very well with foods now, though it will reward those blessed with patience. I found it growing upon me.
2 stars

Rinaldi Pietro Azienda Agricola
Frazione Madonna di Como, 86
12051 Alba (CN)
http://www.pietrorinaldi.com

Rinaldi Pietro San Cristoforo Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Black almandine ruby. The bouquet is closed, with some spice and moderate acidity as it opens, but closed. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderate berry fruit supported by some berry fruit acidity, and by clean slightly greenish tannins that flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish. I'd have liked greater richness to the fruit than I found.
1 star

Rivetti Massimo Azienda Agricola
Via Rivetti, 22
12052 Neive (CN) -
http://www.rivettimassimo.it

Rivetti Massimo Froi Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Almandine with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is smoky, with some hints of marzipan -- wood-fruit interaction -- laced with hardwood ash, and moderate red berry fruit. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich bright berry fruit supported by lively sour cherry acidity, and by ample tart tannins that flow into a clean tannic finish. It's a bit rustic, but will drink quite well with succulent red meats, either off the grill or out of the oven, and will age nicely with time. If you like this style, it is pleasant, but you have to like fairly aggressive wines.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Sarotto Roberto
Via Ronconuovo 13
Neviglie (CN)
Tel 0173 630 228

Sarotto Roberto Gaia Principe Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Black almandine with black reflections. Closed. The bouquet is shut tight; some spice emerges, but little else. On the palate it's medium bodied, with clean berry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit; I found it rather lax, and the finish is fairly bitter. It needs time to figure what it is about.
1 star

Agricola Sottimano
Via Cottà 12
Neive (CN)
Tel 0173 635 186

Sottimano Cottà Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is closed, with some greenish accents and green leather, and spice as well; not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich bitter fruit supported by bright tart acidity, while the finish is bitter finish and flows into clean sour notes. Will drink well with fattier, richer foods, especially grilled meats.
1 star

Sottimano Fausoni Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep garnet ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly direct, with greenish accents and spice mingled with some underbrush and green leather; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with fairly bright red berry fruit supported by clean sour berry fruit acidity, and it all flows into a fairly rich tannic finish. I liked it better on the palate than the nose, and think it will work very well with succulent grilled meats or hearty stews. I found it growing upon me.
2 stars

Tenuta San Mauro
Loc. S. Mauro, 1
14054 Castagnole Delle Lanze (AT)
http://www.il-tenutasanmauro.com

Tenuta San Mauro Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Garnet ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with considerable oak and hardwood ash mingled with some hot iron, and underlying berry fruit. On the palate it's full, with moderate berry fruit supported both by ample tannins that carry the structure, and have marked bitter overtones, and by clean acidity that carries through into the finish. I found the tannic structure to be greater than the fruit, and the overall effect to be rather empty. A fellow taster says heavy handed on the oak.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Vietti S.S.
Piazza Vittorio Veneto 5
Castiglione Falletto (CN)
Tel 0173 62 825
http://www.vietti.com

Vietti Masseria Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish spice and some vegetal notes mingled with berry spice and some sea slat, but not much fruit. On the palate it's fairly full, with bright berry fruit supported by clean sour cherry spice, and by tannins that have clean slightly brambly notes and flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish. It's quick to write, but pleasant, and will drink very well with succulent red meats in the short term, and also age well in the long term. In short, something to drink now or set aside. All the more impressive because it's the last wine of the day, when one wants to stop. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Cascina Casanova
Frazione Madonna di Como, 48
12051 Alba (CN)
Tel 0173 33716

Cascina Casanova Sorì Sartù Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with considerable spice and almost graphite bitterness mingling with sour berry fruit. Charged, and much more about power than finesse, at least now in its youth. On the palate it's full, greeting the tongue with a hot cedar-laced rush that spreads out, leaving some space to berry fruit, but at present it's more oak and oaky extraction than anything else. The oak probably will fold in with time, but at present it predominates.
1 star

Piazzo Armando
Frazione San Rocco Seno D'Elvio
Alba (CN)
Tel 0173 35 689
http://www.piazzo.it

Piazzo Armando Sorì Fratin Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright forest berry fruit supported by tart acidity and that takes on yellow peach accents with swishing, while there is also some underlying minerality. On the palate it's full, and a bit disjointed, with the tannins, which do reveal an oaky component, heading in one direction while the fruit, which is decidedly sour cherry, going in another; in the end the finish is quite dry and splintery -- oak again. Youth in a glass, and it will pull together with time, though I'd have liked a bit more depth than I found -- the oak is too present for me, at least in the short term. Give it 2-3 years at least end expect it to age 10-15.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Taliano Michele Di Taliano Alberto
Via A. Manzoni, 24
12046 Montà D'Alba (CN)
Tel. 0173 976512

Taliano Michele Ad Altiora Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep almandine ruby with black reflections and Moroccan leather in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with green leather mingled with spice and moderate red berry fruit, while there are underlying savory accents and warmth. On the palate it's full, with fairly bright berry fruit supported by ample sweet tannins that are quite young, and do display a debt to oak, but fold in nicely and flow into a dusky bitter fruit-laced finish. It's a toddler stumbling about, but will grow nicely with time, and drink quite well with succulent roasts or hearty stews. Expect it to age well for a decade or more.
2 stars

Azienda Vitivinicola Boffa Carlo
Via Torino 17
Barbaresco (CN)
Tel 0173 635 277

Boffa Carlo Casot Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is smoky at first swish, with some red berry fruit that emerges with subsequent swishes, and underlying spice as well. On the palate it's brash, with a rush of aggressive tannins that coats the tongue, while moderate red berry fruit tries to work in around it, and it finishes up warm with again considerable tannic bite. It's very young, and working things though at present; a score today will likely not reflect what it will become.

Boffa Carlo Vitalotti Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is delicate, with some rosa canina mingled with green leather and tart acidity, while there is also underlying warmth. On the palate it's very young, with moderately rich tart berry fruit supported by tannins that lay a youthful burr over the tongue, and flow into a clean bitter finish. It's promising but very much a work in progress, and needs at least a year to get its bearings; when it does it will be middle-of-the-road in style, and drink nicely with roasts or stews. It will also age well.
2 stars

Cà Romè
Via Rabajà 36
12050 Barbaresco (CN)
http://www.carome.com/index.html

Cà Romè Maria di Brun Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep black lam with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright yellow peach fruit that isn't too common in a red wine, but can occur, and clean underlying herbal notes and spice; the overall impression is harmonious in a rather opulent key. On the palate it's full, with bright red berry fruit that's overshadowed at present by ample rather splintery tannins that flow into a warm fruit laced tannic finish. Another very young wine, and it will do interesting things, but needs time to get there -- figure ate least a couple of years for it to be drinkable, and is will age well for many more.
2 stars

Cantina Del Pino Azienda Agricola
Via Ovello, 15
12050 Barbaresco (CN)
http://www.cantinadelpino.com

Cantina del Pino Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with bitter smoky notes mingling with spice and sea salt, and some nose-tingling acidity. Not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with much of the structure coming from the tannins, whose angry warmth overshadows everything else, and flow into a bitter tannic finish. It may come together, but needs time to do so, at least 3 years.
1 star

Cascina Bruciata
Via Rio Sordo, 19
12050 Barbaresco (CN)
Tel. 0173 638826

Cascina Bruciata Rio Sordo Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit mingling with some green leather and smoky overtones. On the palate it's bright, with rich slightly bitter red berry fruit that gains depth and direction from tart acidity, while support comes from bitter dusky tannins that flow into a clean fruit-laced finish. It will be elegant, though at present it is very young, and needs time, a couple of years at least, to get its bearings. Expect it to age well for 10-15 years, and do very interesting things.
2 stars

Cascina Bruciata Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with smoky red berry fruit supported by greenish spice and warmth. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich red berry fruit that has slight sweet overtones, and gains direction from warm acidity, while the tannic structure is ample and has distinct bitter overtones that flow into a clean slightly bitter tannic finish. Pleasant, though very young, and it still has some baby fat to it; the sweetness is a bit unusual, but works quite well, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Azienda Vitivinicola Michele Chiarlo
SS Nizza-Caneli 99
Calamandrana (CN)
Tel 0173 769030

Chiarlo Michele Asili Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is smoky, with Moroccan leather and warmth overlying dried flours and a certain tartness. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich leathery berry fruit that is supported by ample smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean tart berry fruit finish. Pleasant, though quite young, in a traditional key, and will drink well with succulent red meats in the sort term, though those with the patience to give it a few years will be nicely rewarded. I think it will become lacy with time.
2 stars

La Cà Nova di Rocca F.lli
Via Casa Nuova 1
12050 Barbaresco (CN)
Tel 0173 635 123

La Cà Nova Montestefano Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit wild, with wet stable straw mingled with underbrush and savory accents with underlying spice that adds depth. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and tannins that lay a warm burr over the tongue, and flow into a dry tannic finish. It's a bit rustic, and I found myself wanting greater richness of fruit to stand up to the tannins, which are drying. In terms of accompaniments, it will work well with hearty red meats.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Montaribaldi
Via Rio Sordo 30/A
Barbaresco (CN)
Http://www.ilturismo.com/montaribaldi.htm

Montaribaldi Sorì Montaribaldi Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is lively, with fairly bright berry fruit supported by nose-tingling acidity and some herbal accents that add depth, and slight green leather too. On the palate it's full, with rather sweet fruit that's not as well defined as I expected, supported by angry tannins that overrun everything, and flow into a bitter finish with graphite overtones. It will drink well with fattier meats, but you have to like the style or you will find it too aggressive.
1 star

Poderi Colla
Frazione San Rocco Seno D'Elvio 82
Alba
Tel 0173 290 148
http://www.podericolla.it

Poderi Colla Barbaresco Roncaglie DOCG 2004
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with warm greenish accents mingled with acidity and slight underbrush; it's pleasant, in a distinctly traditional key. On the palate it's ample, with a moderate fruit -- there's more acidity than fruit holding it up -- supported by ample tannins that lay a splintery veneer over the tongue and continue at length into a finish that also has greenish, almost minty herbal overtones. Extremely tannic, and a bit disjointed; it needs time - several years - to come together, and it may not; you should only consider it if you like this rather aggressive tannic style. If you do, it may do interesting things with time.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Rabajà di Bruno Rocca
Via Rabajà 29
Barbaresco (CN)
http://www.brunorocca.it

Rabajà Rocca Bruno Rabajà Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Almandine with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with berry fruit mingled with leather and some spice, coupled with rhubarb and peppery spice, with slight hints of stable straw as well. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry fruit that gains direction from wild strawberry acidity, and is supported by ample sweet tannins that flow into a warm tannic finish. It's pleasant, but very young; it needs at least a year to get its bearings, and perhaps two, at which point it will drink nicely with succulent red meats, for example a thick porterhouse cut. It will also age nicely for a decade or more.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Rocca Albino
Via Rabajà 15
Barbaresco (CN)
Tel 0173 635 145

Rocca Albino Vigneto Brich Ronchi Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep garnet with black reflections and ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish herbal notes mingled with slight rhubarb and underlying spice. On the palate it's fairly direct at the outset, with warm fruit that rapidly gives way to a powerful tannic rush that covers all, leading into a finish that combines tannins with slight bitter cocoa that resolves into savory warmth. It's woefully young, and to be honest I'm not sure it will ever fully digest the tannins it has; I would keep it 3-5 years before I even thought about opening it. If you have to drink it sooner, do so with something quite fatty that will balance the tannins. It's too young for a score to mean much, but it could do nice things.

Rocca Albino Vigneto Loreto Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is shut tight, of the lights out and nobody home variety. Insisting, slight spice emerges, but not much else. On the palate it's ample, with fairly direct red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by tannins that lay an angry veneer over the tongue, and flow into a dry tannic finish. It's badly disjointed, and needs time both to come together and for the nose to develop; as things stand it's like looking into a custom car shop and seeing a bunch of parts. About all one can say is that it is quite tannic, and the tannins are aggressive. If the pieces fall together well, it could be very long lived. But it's soon to say, and the wine is too young for a score to mean much.

Tenuta Cisa Asinari Dei Marchesi di Gresy
Via Rabajà 43
Barbaresco (CN)
http://www.marchesidigresy.com

Tenuta Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Gresy Martinenga Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up some red berry fruit supported by clean spice. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry fruit that gains depth from some tart acidity, and is supported by clean tannins that do have a youthful burr, and flow into a clean slightly bitter finish. It's quite direct, and this is part a factor of youth; was it comes into its own over the next 3-5 years it will become graceful, and will, I think, age nicely for many years thereafter.
2 stars

Prunotto SRL
Regione San Cassiano 4/G
Alba (CN)
http://www.prunotto.it

Prunotto Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright greenish berry fruit supported by warmth and some yellow peach overtones, which develop into rhubarb, while there is also underlying spice and slight berry fruit jam. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright berry fruit that's tarter than I expected, supported by smooth ample tightly woven tannins and by acidity that carries through into a long warm tannic finish with bitter spicy undertones. It's quite young, but pleasant in a middle of the road key, and will become graceful as it gets its bearings and the tannins fold in. I'd give it 2-3 years, and enjoy it with succulent red meats -- a hearty stew, including venison, might be nice -- though it has the potential to age for much longer.
2 stars

3 comments:

Anonymous said...

Thanks for writing these reviews! I've been looking for a good way to narrow down my purchases of the '04s.

Just Chris said...

I like your site. I am new to purchasing wine and recently purchased 2 cases of 2004 Barbaresco Rabaja DOCG Luigi Minuto from my wine guru who has done well selling me good wines thus far. I think this translates to Rabajà Rocca Bruno Rabajà Barbaresco DOCG 2004 on your site. Am I correct? Thanks for the help. CW

Kyle Phillips said...

Sorry to be slow in getting back to you. Luigi Minuto is, if I remember right, Cascina Luisin. He has a piece of the Rabaja vineyard and makes a very good Barbaresco that is a bit more traditional in style than Bruno Rocca's. Both are good, in different styles.

Kyle