Sparkling Wines To Ring In The New Year (Or To Simply Enjoy)

I recently went to Spumantia, a presentation of sparkling wines in Viareggio, on the Tuscan coast. It was interesting, because rather than focus on a particular appellation, there was everything from light, spritzy Prosecco through much more serious, Franciacorta, Champagne, and even Gavi. I had a great time, and here's a selection of the wines that impressed me most. They'll be nice on New Year's Eve, and also a great way to celebrate Valentine's Day too.

• Casale Falchini Metodo Classico Millesimato 2003
  Pale greenish brassy gold with brassy reflections and fine perlage. Elegant bouquet with breadcrumbs and minerality mingled with dappled shade and tropical fruit that adds richness. On the palate full, rich, with bright mineral-laced fruit that gives way to a long mineral finish with savory accents that gains depth from peppery sparkle. Quite pleasant in a slightly decadent key, and will work well with rich risotti, creamy fish, or white meats.
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• Carpené Malvolti Kerner Brut
  Carpené is known for Prosecco, but also makes this from Kerner, a grape that grows in the Alto Adige. Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and fine perlage. Rich, elegant bouquet with honeysuckle, citric acidity, and underlying sweetness. On the palate full and soft, with pleasant slightly bitter gooseberry fruit supported by citric acidity that flows into a clean bitter finish, while the sparkle contributes pleasing softness. Quite welcoming, and will be nice as an aperitif or with delicate vegetable or mild cheese dishes.
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• Il Calepino Brut Metodo Classico
  This is a Chardonnay, and spent 36 months on the lees. Lively gold with brassy reflections, and has a fairly rich bouquet with gunflint minerality laced with vegetal accents and some butterscotch. Nice balance. On the palate it's bright, with lively minerality supported by the sparkle, which confers a salty feel, and flows into a clean savory finish with gunflint bitterness. Quite approachable, combining complexity with a brightness that will make you sip and sip again.
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• Tenuta Bonomi Castellini Franciacorta Brut
  Pale brassy gold with brassy reflections and fine intense perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with clean citric acidity and hints of marzipan supported by some gunflint. Nice balance and has quite a bit to say. On the palate it's clean, with bright minerality and crisp apple fruit supported by clean mineral acidity that flows into a clean finish. Quite nice, and will drink well with foods, especially creamy risotti, or white meats. Very pleasant, and quite approachable.
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• La Scolca D'Antan 1995
  Pale brassy gold with brassy highlights and fine perlage. The bouquet is rich and complex, with smoke and bitterness mingled with balsamic notes, hints of petroleum, and pleasing acidity. Great depth. On the palate it's rich and full with bright acidity and an abundance of bread crumbs supported by marzipan and toasted bread crust, while the sparkle is soft and welcoming. It's a wine one could have a long conversation with, and well worth seeking out.
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• Astoria Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Superiore Di Cartizze 2006
  Pale brassy gold with greenish reflections and fine perlage. Deft bouquet with clean crisp apple fruit supported by hints of chalk and some minty herbal spice that adds considerable depth. On palate full and bright with crisp apple fruit supported by clean mineral acidity that flows into a clean bracing apple finish. Nice as an aperitif, and it will also be nice at a cookout with grilled fish or vegetables.
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• Azienda Agricola Caseo Gran Cuvée Pas Dosée 2001
  Lively gold with brassy greenish reflections and fine perlage. Rich nose with elegant citric fruit shot with butterscotch and hints of winter squash that sound odd but work. Considerable depth. On palate full, with bright white berry fruit supported by minerality and some tropical fruit, with pleasing acidity, which flows into a clean butterscotch finish with greenish accents and peppery spice. Quite nice, and will drink very well with foods. The Oltrepo has great potential and here we see it.
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• Andreola Orsola Valdobbiadene Prosecco Millesimato Dry 2006
  Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections. Rich bouquet with deft crisp apple fruit supported by floral accents, and though it's quick to say there's great depth. On palate full, with bright apple fruit that's crisp but not acidic, gaining depth from the sparkle, which adds volume and flows into clean apple finish. Quite pleasant and will be very nice as an aperitif or at poolside. Carefree pleasure in a glass.
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• Villa Diamant Franciacorta Pas Dosé 2002
  Brassy gold with fine intense perlage. Rich bouquet with butterscotch, some minerality and hints green apple. Great depth, and very tight. On palate bright, with clean rich minerality supported by sparkle and savory accents with mineral-citric acidity that flows into a clean savory finish with underlying bitterness. It demands and holds one's attention. Wow!
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• Anteo Metodo Classico Nature
  This is a pinot nero pas dose, and is pale brassy white with brassy reflections; the perlage is fine. Clean bouquet with minerality and some greenish vegetal notes mingled with acidity and some gunflint. On palate clean and deft, with bright minerality supported by sparkle and clean bitter accents. Quite nice, and will drink well with foods, from fish to creamy white meats. Lots to say in a crisp mineral key.
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• Vazart Coquart Spécial Foie Gras Champagne
  This is called foie gras because they think it's a good match. It's pale brassy gold with fine perlage, and has an elegant nose with gunflint and butterscotch mingled with marzipan and some dried fruit. On palate it's full and rich, with honeysuckle and candied fruit supported by peppery sparkle and clean mineral acidity that flows into a fairly sweet finish. Quite elegant, and more delicate than vibrant, with an intriguing decadence to it as well. Not Brut (their Brut is good too), but very nice.
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