Thoughts about the 2004 Amarone Della Valpolicella

2004 was a very fine vintage, and therefore one might expect it to have been a banner year for the Veneto's most sought after wine. It is and it wasn't and this invites reflection. But first, some background.

Though Amarone is now eagerly sought out by connoisseurs, this hasn't always been the case, and indeed one can gather this from the name. It's a wine that's made by allowing the grapes, a blend of primarily Corvina and Rondinella (Molinara, the third major grape of the traditional blend, is no longer required because it was primarily a filler that would guarantee quantity in vintages when the others failed) and some complementary varietals to dry on mats late into the fall, and then fermenting the raisins. The original goal of this tremendous labor was Recioto, a sweet red wine that dates back to the Romans, and which was the stuff of nobility and kings in the days before processed sugar, when sweets were a treasured rarity.

Alas, the barrels didn't always yield sweet Recioto: Sometimes the wine fermented to dryness, and what emerged was Amarone, a brooding, tremendously concentrated and highly alcoholic wine. Amarone, or Big Bitter One, and the name does convey the sense of loss that the winemakers felt when what they expected to be Recioto turned out not to be.

Recioto is still beloved of the winemakers of Valpolicella, but over the past 50-75 years the popularity of Amarone has soared among wine drinkers the world over, and those who are inclined to make lists rank it on a par with the other great Italian reds, Brunello, Barolo and Barbaresco.

For the region (and the wine) this is a mixed blessing. For the region, because the same blend of grapes is also used to make both Valpolicella and Valpolicella Superiore, and the much higher price that Amarone commands tempts winemakers to divert grapes to the production of Amarone. As a result, the production of, especially, Valpolicella Superiore is squeezed.

A relative lack of what would be considered a Riserva in other appellations is, I think, detrimental to the Valpolicella appellation, because it means that the supply is concentrated at the extremities, as it were, with an abundance of quaffing wine (Valpolicella) and quite a bit of very expensive wine, the Amarone, but not as much in between (i.e. what one breaks out for a nice meal that's not a major Event) as there should be.

The high prices Amarone commands are also, I think, detrimental to Amarone, because producers are tempted to jack up production, putting grapes that would have been better in a lighter wine onto the drying mats together with the very best. The result is an Amarone that has the concentration and high alcohol content typical of the wine, but feels forced, and I found a number of the at the presentation of the 2004 vintage. I also found wines that will be frankly superb, and this brings up another point: Amarone is a wine that needs time. Years; I wouldn't drink any of the wines we were poured before 2010, and if I could would give them much longer, decades even. Amarone has that sort of a lifespan, and richly rewards those who give it the time to grow and develop.

For a much more detailed look at the commercial situation surrounding Amarone (in Italian), see Franco Zilian's post on Vino Al Vino. Put briefly, he's not at all happy with the situation, because he thinks it's being overproduced, and fears a crunch may be coming (one of the statistics he prints, that the value of the unsold Amarone in winery cellars, 170 million Euros, is close to the total value of the all the wine sold by Valpolicella producers, 220 million Euros, supports his fears -- a lot of Amarone isn't moving).

Returning to the Amarone presentation: Good Amarone is superb, but because of the production strategies surrounding the wine it's not a sure bet, and consumers should select with care, even in the best of vintages.


The wines, tasted January 2008



Accordini Stefano
Via Alberto Bolla, 9
37020, Pedemonte (VR)

Accordini Stefano Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep garnet ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is powerful, with sandalwood and licorice root mingled with red berry fruit and a fair amount of alcohol, and some slight underlying greenish accents. On the palate it's fairly full, but drier than I expected, with moderately rich cherry plum fruit supported by tannins that have a tongue-drying cedar overlay to them and flow into a dry tannic finish with some plum accents with savory overtones. It's not as clean as I'd have hoped, and also has been dried by wood. This said, because of its power and the tannins it will drink well with hearty stews or fatty roasts that need something to clear the palate between bites. Expect it to age well for at least 10 years.
1 star

Cantine Aldegheri
Via A.Volta,9 37015
Sant'Ambrogio di Valpolicella (VR)

Aldegheri Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep garnet ruby with garnet in the rim. The bouquet is powerful, and fairly sweet, with jammy plum berry fruit accents mingling with licorice root and clean spice, with some mint and graphite shavings as well. Lively in a rich rather voluptuous key. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry fruit laced with considerable bitterness and supported by smooth sweet tannins that carry into a long bitter finish. Quite elegant in a very young international key, and it needs another 2-3 years to get its bearings, at which point it will drink well with hearty stews or roasts, including spicier fare such as goulash, or even a bollito misto. It will also reward those with patience to give it time, and age well for at least a decade.
2 stars, now

Azienda Agricola Antolini Pierpaolo e Stefano
Via Prognol, 22 37020
Marano di Valpolicella (VR)

Antolini Pierpaolo e Stefano Moròpio Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is frankly rustic at first swish, with a rush of barnyard tang mingled with animal musk, which opens with swishing to reveal savory accents with slight mentholated aromas and some leaf tobacco. Not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean plum laced finish with sandalwood underpinning and hints of licorice. It's very young, in a fairly traditional key, and though it won't stand out at a tasting, it will, I think, do interesting things with time, gaining a delicate, lacy grace. But you have to like the more traditional style.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Arduini Luciano
Via Belvedere, 7 37020
Corrubbio di Negarine (VR)

Arduini Luciano Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, and fruit driven, with powerful black currant fruit laced with red berry fruit and sweetish, slightly sandalwood-mint accents. Opulent, of the starlet in a glass variety. On the palate it's full, and very smooth, with powerful black currant and forest berry fruit supported by very smooth tannins and just enough acidity to provide direction, and it all flows into a clean currant laced finish with tantalizing, slightly sweet hints of licorice. It's quite international in style, and if you like the style you will enjoy it very much. But you do have to like the smoother softer style; it will drink well with succulent, drier roasts.
2 stars

Cantina Vini Armani A.
Via Ceradello, 401
37020, Dolcè (VR)

Vini Armani A. Amarone Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep pyrope ruby with violet overtones and black reflections. The bouquet is powerful, with cherry and plum fruit laced with sweetness and some sandalwood with some hints of wet plaster that sound odd but add depth; it's elegant in a rich key and brings Recioto to mind because of its sweetness. On the palate it's full, and fairly sweet, with powerful plum fruit that gains direction from cedar acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean plum-laced finish with a sweet sandalwood underpinning. It feels more like an ammandorlato than a true Amarone fermented all the way to dryness, and will drink well with hearty stews, especially things along the lines of goulash. I enjoyed it, but if you prefer drier red wines it is a touch sweet.
2 stars

Benedetti Soc. Agr. Corte Antica
Via C.S. Prunea di Sotto, 5
37015, Gargagnago (VR)

Benedetti Corte Antica di Benedetti Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, but not as clean as I might have hoped, with barnyard tang mingled with spice; there isn't much in the way of fruit, and with more swishing savory accents emerge. On the palate it's fairly rich, but also woefully young and going several directions at once; the fruit is cherry laced, while the tannins have an angry cedar/graphite shavings burr and flow into a clean very bitter finish. While some toddlers look good and suggest they will be handsome as adults, others do not, and this one is ham fisted. It needs time. Too young to score.

Benedetti Corte Antica di Benedetti Amarone Croce del Gral Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with clean berry fruit supported by cedar and some greenish accents; the overall impression is quite harmonious. On the palate it's full, but not quite as full as I expected, with elegant cherry fruit supported by some forest berry acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that have faint sandalwood overtones and flow into a clean sandalwood and berry fruit finish. It's quite elegant, though in mid-stride, and though one could drink it now with a stew or roast, it will richly reward those who have the patience to give it another 5-10 years to develop. Worth seeking out if you like wines that revolve more around subtlety and finesse than power.
2 stars

Cantine Cav. G.B. Bertani
Via Asiago, 1
37023, Grezzana (VR)

Cav. G.B. Bertani Amarone Della Valpolicella Villa Arvedi 2004
Deep black garnet ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is obviously in the formative stage, a polite way of saying it's shut tight, though something -- some sandalwood and hints of fruit -- manage to emerge. Promising in any case, but not there yet. On the palate it's full and quite rich, with powerful cherry fruit that gains depth and direction from a combination of graphite bitterness and clean berry fruit acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long clean berry fruit finish. It will have great depth and elegance when it gets where it's going, in 3-5 years, and will develop beautifully for many years thereafter, but at present it's at the start of a long journey. In other words, a wine to set aside, but not drink now, and if you or your heirs will be celebrating on down the road it's worth seeking out and setting aside. But not for now.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Boscaini Carlo
Via Sengia, 15
37015, Sant'Ambrogio di Valpolicella (VR)

Boscaini Carlo Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with nose-tingling spice and sandalwood mingled with some red berry fruit. On the palate it's full, and quite young, with fairly rich, moderately sweet red berry fruit supported by clean sweet tannins that flow into a clean sandalwood-laced finish that still has some oaky overtones. It's a babe in swaddling clothes, and needs another couple of years to get its bearings; this said, I found myself wishing it were a little more refined than what I found.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Bussola Tommaso
Via Molino Turri, n. 30
37024, S. Peretto (VR)

Bussola Tommaso Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with forest berry and black currant fruit supported by hints of sandalwood and slight mentholated accents, with underlying spice. Pleasant. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful warm cherry plum fruit supported by sandalwood accents and some warmth, while the tannins are quite smooth, and flow into a clean slightly bitter berry fruit finish with (again) hints of sandalwood. Quite nice, though very young; it will drink nicely now with a hearty succulent roast or a rich stew, but will gain considerably in finesse and elegance as it ages, and will be worth meditating over in the future, say a decade from now.
88

Azienda Agricola Cà La Bionda
Via dell'Artigianato, n. 18
37020, Valgatara (VR)

Cà La Bionda Vigneti di Ravazzol Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, and frankly jammy, with black currants and forest berry fruit mingled with some sandalwood and sweet overtones that bring a Recioto to mind. On the palate it's full, but a bit drier than I had expected, with black currant and plum fruit supported by tannins that have a warm cedary burr that covers all, and flows into a clean cedar laced finish with underlying sweetness. There's a lot of oak here, and the wine has yet to digest it; if it does it will be quite smooth in an international key, but that will take a few more years. At present it will drink best with succulent to fatty red meats, but I would be tempted to give the body time to catch up with the nose.
1 star

Cà Rugate
Via Pergola, 36
37030, Montecchia di Crosara (VR)

Cà Rugate Amarone Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with garnet reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, and clearly developing, though swishing brings up berry fruit laced with sandalwood bitterness and underlying spice. A work in progress. On the palate it's ample, with moderate fruit that is supported by dry bitter tannins that flow into a clean bitter finish with some tannic accents and some warmth. I'd have liked greater richness of fruit than I found.
1 star

Giuseppe Campagnola
Località Valgatara, via Agnella, 9
Marano di Valpolicella (VR)

Giuseppe Campagnola Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with considerable sandalwood mingled with some spice, and underlying bitterness laced with barnyard tang. Not much fruit. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggests, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by some sweetness, and by bright cherry red currant acidity, while the tannins are greenish, with a fairly marked sandalwood underpinning that flows into a clean, slightly sweet sandalwood finish. It's toddling, and unsurely at that; it will do interesting things with time, becoming elegant in a graceful, lacy key, but that's at least 2-3 years down the road. In other words, a pleasant wine in a traditional key, but much too young to drink now. If you like the style, it's worth buying and setting aside.
2 stars

Cantina di Soave
Viale Vittoria, n. 100
37038, Soave (VR)

Cantina di Soave Amarone Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep slightly purple ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with forest berry fruit supported by some vegetal accents and a fair amount of sandalwood, with underlying spice. Quite young. On the palate it's full, and fairly sweet, with cherry plum fruit supported by hints of licorice and sandalwood, with mineral acidity to provide depth, and slightly greenish sandal laced tannins that flow into a clean greenish finish with sweet underpinning. It's more an ammandorlato than a fully dry Amarone, and if you like this style has considerable grace to it, though it needs time to come together and grow. It will work well with succulent, even spicy roasts, or rich hearty stews. But do give it time, 2-4 years at least, and perhaps more.
2 stars

Cantina della Valpantena
Via Colonia Orfani di Guerra
37034, Quinto (VR)

Cantina Sociale della Valpantena Torre del Falasco Amarone Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, in a rather haunting way, though very young, with cherry plum fruit that has some forest berry fruit accents supported by greenish sandalwood and spice, with underlying warmth. A (young) adolescent. On the palate it's full, but not as rich as I had expected, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by smooth tannins that have a cedar overlay to them, and flow into a clean berry fruit finish; I might have liked greater richness to the fruit, which gives way to the tannins and allows them to carry the show, especially in the finish, which is a bit dry. As is the case with many of these wines, it is up in the air, and I trust that the tannins will fold in with time, but I would have liked a little more fruit.
1 star

Cantina di Negrar
Via Ca' Salgari, n. 2
37024, Negrar (VR)

Cantina Sociale della Valpolicella Negrar Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense in a youthful key, with forest berry fruit and plum fruit laced with berry fruit jam, and supported by sandalwood and spice; I found it growing upon me as I swished. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by clean sweet tannins that gain depth from a slightly greenish sandalwood underlay, and flow into a clean bright finish. Quite elegant, though in diapers; it will, I think, become very interesting with time, though at present it is at the beginning of a long journey. I wouldn't think of opening it before 2011, and would expect it to do wonderful thing in the decade following. In short, a wine to set aside. If you must drink it now, do so with a rich stew or roast.
2 stars

Cesari
Località Sorsei
37010, Cavaion V.se (VR)

Gerardo Cesari Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, in a decidedly greenish youthful key; with sandalwood and some berry fruit supported by slight acidity and pleasant greenish overtones. On the palate it's full, with fruit that's pleasant but a touch less intense than I might have expected, supported by clean sandalwood laced tannins that have a peppery cedary underpinning, and flow into a clean sandalwood laced finish. Pleasant, in a slightly understated way, and is still working to find itself; it needs another year for all the pieces to fall into place. One could drink it now with succulent red meats, but I think it will reward those who give it time.
2 stars


Gerardo Cesari Il Bosco Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish sandalwood mingled with jammy berry fruit with underlying spice; the impression is one of airiness, and also subtlety in a very young key. On the palate it's full and fairly rich, with elegant cherry plum fruit laced with some sandalwood acidity, and supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly dry fruit laced finish that gains direction and depth from sandalwood bitterness and slight graphite. It's very young, but graceful, and will develop quite nicely over the next few years, becoming lacy with time. If you like this fairly austere style you will like it very much, and it will only get better.
88

Tezza
Stradella Maioli, 4
37142, Poiano (VR)

Azienda Agricola Tezza Fabio Contrà Malini Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and ruby rim. The bouquet is greenish, with red berry fruit and a fair amount of cedar, which is actually more imposing than the fruit. On the palate it's full, and fairly rich, with bright cherry and forest berry fruit supported by clean slightly greenish tannins, while there is also an underlying sweetness that adds depth and direction, and it all flows into a fairly sweet greenish finish. It's not quite ammandorlato, but not dry either, and my overall impression is that it's fairly direct. Though this is in part a factor of youth, I doubt it will ever be as complex as some.
1 star

Corte Rugolin
Via Rugolin
37020, Valgatara (VR)

Corte Rugolin Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and hints of black almandine in the rim. The bouquet is savory, with greenish accents mingled with slight balsamic notes at the outset, and further swishing brings up some sandalwood. Not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with moderate rather dry cherry fruit that's overshadowed by savory sandalwood accents, and flows into a warm savory sandalwood finish with slight hints of balsamic berry fruit. It's a bit rustic, and you should only consider it if you like this style; it will in any case drink well with succulent red meats or hearty stews. Expect it to become lacy with time, though the basic character will likely remain the same.
1 star

Cubi Valentina
Località Casterna, 60
37022, Fumane (VR)

Valentina Cubi Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and black cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly green, with penetrating balsamic notes mingled with greenish accents and some spice; with more swishing some dried flowers also emerge, and also spice. Pleasant, though in a more mature key than many. On the palate it's full, and a little flat, with moderately intense berry fruit that's overshadowed by warm savory overtones, and supported my smooth savory tannins that flow into a clean savory finish. It's a touch settled, and I found myself wanting greater richness of fruit; this said, I would drink it with hearty roasts or stews.
1 star

F.lli Farina
Via Fontana, n. 8
37020, Pedemonte (VR)

F.lli Farina Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with powerful sandalwood mingled with greenish accents and some cedar, and underlying red berry fruit with red currant acidity to provide direction. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry fruit that gains direction from sandalwood and hints of balsamic warmth, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly dry finish with a mixture of balsamic notes and sweetness derived from alcohol, which is fairly high. It's elegant, in a very young key, and needs time, at least 2-3 years, before it has its leg about it. When it's ready it will drink well with rich stews or hearty roasts along the lines of leg of lamb.
2 stars

F.lli Fabiano
Via Verona, 6
37060, Sona (VR)

F.lli Fabiano Amarone Della Valpolicella 2004
Impenetrable black garnet ruby with black reflections and garnet rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with sandalwood mingled with some berry fruit and plum jam laced with cut violets (unusual, but that's what I smell) underlying it all. Quite a bit going on, and it gives an impression of being in stride, towards a goal. On the palate it's full, with fairly bitter sandalwood-laced berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and smooth bitter tannins that flow into a clean bitter finish. It's pleasant, in a rather austere key, and more about bitterness and its interaction with tannins than about fruit, but I found myself rather enjoying it. If you like the style it will drink well with fattier grilled meats, or even with a rich Veronese boiled dinner.
2 stars

Fraccaroli Domenico
Via Boschetto, 6
37030, Lavagno (VR)

Fraccaroli Domenico Grotta del Ninfeo Amarone Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with sandalwood and savory accents mingled with India ink and graphite shavings; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful fairly sweet cherry plum fruit that gains direction from smooth plum acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly sweet berry fruit finish. Elegant, in a rich key that brings Recioto to mind, and given the palate I would give the nose a year or two to catch up. Drink it with flavorful even spicy stews or hearty roasts, and expect it to age quite well for a decade or more.
2 stars

Gamba Gnirega
Località Gnirega
37020 Marano di Valpolicella (VR)

Gamba Gnirega Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with elegant jammy plum cherry fruit that gains depth from sandalwood and some spice; though it's young it's also harmonious. On the palate it's full, and smooth, with fairly intense plum fruit that gains direction from some sandalwood bitterness, and is supported by clean tannins that have a sandalwood-cedar burr, and flow into a clean fairly dry slightly butter finish. It's quite young, but also quite promising, and will drink very well with a roast or stew now, though those who are willing to give it time will be happy that they did. A wine to set aside.
2 stars

Gnirega
Via Gnirega, 2
37020, Marano di Valpolicella (VR)
Tel: 045-8004812

Gnirega Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Impenetrable black almandine ruby with black reflections and black cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with balsam-laced berry fruit that has some underlying greenish accents, and is supported by a fair amount of sandalwood. On the palate it's full, with the structure coming in large part from warm, savory balsamic tannins, while there is some fairly tart fruit as well, and it flows into a clean savory balsamic finish. I'd have liked greater richness of fruit, and also perhaps less maturity of same; it has a slightly tired feel to it.
1 star

Guerrieri Rizzardi
Via Verdi, 4
37011, Bardolino (VR)

Guerrieri Rizzardi Calcarole Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Impenetrable black almandine with black cherry reflections and ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit supported by sandalwood and slight greenish accents, and gains depth from some savory notes as well; I found it growing upon me. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit that gains direction from a sandalwood acidity underpinning, and is supported by tannins that have a warm, slightly greenish burr to them, flowing into a clean slightly greenish savory finish. It's elegant, in a fairly traditional key, and also very young; it would give it at least 2 years to get its bearings, and then drink it with succulent roasts or stews, or give it longer, by which time it will become lacy, and sip it alone. If you like the more traditional style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Guerrieri Rizzardi Guerrieri Rizzardi Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Impenetrable black almandine ruby with black reflections and black almandine in the rim. The bouquet is intense, and haunting, with greenish accents mingled with balsam and green leather, and slight wet horse as well, with underlying spice to provide direction. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit that isn't as well defined as I'd have liked -- there's a distracting balsamic undercurrent to it -- supported by greenish splintery tannins that flow into a clean bitter finish. It needs time, another 3-5 years, and with time will likely clean up in a fairly traditional key, drinking well with rich stews or roasts, but it needs that time. If you instead prefer more modern style wines, it won't work as well for you.
2 stars

I Scriani
Via Ponte Scrivan, n. 7
37022, Fumane (VR)

I Scriani Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is muted; swishing brings up some plum sweetness mingled with chemical accents, in particular iodine. Not much fruit. On the palate it's full, and fairly sweet, almost surprisingly so, with moderate cherry plum fruit supported by sweet accents and peppery spice that flow into a clean spicy finish with licorice overtones and dusky brown sugar sweetness that at least in part comes from alcohol. It's quite charged, but not as rich in fruit as I might have liked, and the other elements end up carrying the show forward. I'd have liked greater depth and more fruit.
1 star

Accordini Igino
Via A. Bolla,7
37020, Pedemonte (VR)

Accordini Igino Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Impenetrable black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is intense, with red berry fruit laced with sandalwood and slight balsamic note, and some pleasant greenish accents that have a rather ethereal feel to them. Very young, but going in the right direction. On the palate it's full, with rich berry fruit, a mixture of cherries and red currants that also supply acidity, supported by sandalwood laced tannins that have greenish overtones and flow into a clean fruit laced finish with sandalwood bitterness. Young, but quite pleasant, and will drink very well with succulent roasts or rich stews now, though if you have the patience to wait it will have much more to say.
88

Manara
Via Don Cesare Biasi, 53
37020, S. Floriano (VR)

Manara Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and dark almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and fairly sweet, with a heady mixture of berry fruit jam and slight sandalwood that brings a Recioto to mind, and is supported by hints of cut squash. Voluptuous, with quite a bit going on, and it invites a second sniff. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit that's more acidic than I expected from the nose, and also has balsamic overtones that were completely unexpected, while the tannins are warm and savory, and flow into a clean slightly bitter savory sandalwood finish. It's up in the air at present, and needs another year overtones get its bearings; this said, if you serve it with a succulent leg of lamb now it will work very well, and I expect that it will also age nicely, becoming lacy with time. Worth seeking out to set aside.
2 stars

Manara Postera Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and deep cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is intense, with greenish accents that bring watermelon rinds to mind at first sniff, followed by sandalwood and warmth, with nose tingling spice and some jammy accents. Nice balance, though very young. On the palate it's full, and rich, with jammy cherry plum fruit supported by a combination of sweetness from fruit and dusky graphite bitterness that is quite nice, while the tannins are clean and sandalwood laced, and flow into a clean sandalwood finish. It's pleasant, in a fairly traditional key shifted more towards ammandorlato than dry Amarone, and also almost painfully young; one feels like a child molester when drinking it. This said, it will work now with rich stews, including spicier dishes such as goulash, though it will reward those with the patience to give it a few years, or even many.
2 stars

Mazzi Roberto
Via Crosetta, n. 8
37024, S. Peretto (VR)

Mazzi Roberto e Figli Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and black almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with dusky greenish accents mingled with sandalwood and penetrating balsamic spice that has some barnyard tang to it; underneath this all there is some menthol and red berry fruit. Brooding. On the palate it's full, and fairly sweet, with elegant cherry fruit that gains direction from some sour cherry acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that have sandalwood overtones, and flow into a slightly smoky berry fruit finish. Quite elegant, in a way that brings ammandorlato to mind more than a completely dry Amarone, and if you prefer dry wines it will perhaps not work for you. Then again it might, because there's something captivatingly exotic about it, and I would be tempted o drink it with like-minded friends far from the table.
88

Società Agricola Monteci
Via San Michele, 34
37026 Pescantina (Vr)

Monteci Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Impenetrable black almandine with black almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and a bit wild, with barnyard tang mingled with penetrating balsamic notes, and some savory bitterness, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full, though the fullness is more tannic than fruit driven, and it flows into a bitter savory finish. To be frank I had expected more; it brings to mind a large, rather empty hall that should be filled with fruit but sadly isn't.
1 star

Monte del Frà
Via Custoza, 35
37066, Sommacamapagna (VR)

Monte del Frà Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and some cherry in the rim. The bouquet is fairly metallic, with some savory accents and hints of balsam, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with the fullness mostly tannic, and moderate fruit supported by savory accents that flow into a clean savory finish. I'd have liked more fruit than I found.
1 star

Monte Zovo
Località Zovo, 23
37013, Caprino Veronese (VR)

Monte Zovo Amarone Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is airy, with a fair amount of bitterness mingled with India ink and minerality; there's not much fruit to the mix, however. On the palate it's ample, with the structure primarily from savory tannins, while there isn't too much fruit to hold it together; I'd have liked more fruit than I found.
1 star

Montresor
Via Cà di Cozzi 16/a
37024, Verona (VR)

Giacomo Montresor Castelliere delle Guaite Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Fairly deep black almandine with black reflections and rim. The bouquet is frankly rustic, with barnyard tang mingled with some balsamic notes and warmth, and though there are sea salt overtones there's not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with richer than expected savory plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have pleasant sandalwood overtones, and flow into a clean savory finish with sandalwood accents. It's distinctly traditional, in a rustic key, and if you like this style you'll find that it has quite a bit to say; I found the palate to be better than the nose at present and would give it a year or two to come together, expecting it to age nicely for a decade or more. Worth seeking out if you like the style, though if you prefer modern fruit driven wines it won't be a good bet for you.
2 stars

Giacomo Montresor Capitel della Crosara Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with plum fruit laced with sandalwood and berry fruit jam, and pleasing underlying spice; there's some sweetness as well, though perhaps not enough to think in terms of an ammandorlato. On the palate it's ample, and fairly sweet, with elegant plum fruit supported by clean slightly greenish sandalwood tannins, and by pleasant savory accents as well, that flow into a clean bitter savory finish with some fruit. It's pleasant in a decidedly sweet key, though I would have liked a greater richness to the fruit, which yields center stage to the other elements.
1 star

Musella
Località Monte del Drago
37036, San Martino Buon Albergo (VR)

Musella Amarone Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with balsamic notes laced with savory accents and spice, with sandalwood as well, and wet animal hair. Not much fruit. On the palate it's full, and fairly rich, with sweetish plum fruit whose sweetness is at least in part from alcohol, supported by greenish savory tannins that flow into a warm clean finish. It's fairly direct, and I doubt it will gain in complexity with time.
1 star

Nicolis Angelo
Via Villa Girardi, n. 29
37029, San Pietro in Cariano (VR)

Nicolis Angelo e Figli Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with India ink mingled with greenish sandalwood accents and underlying bitterness, while there is also hardwood ash and sea salt, with hits of green leather and underlying cherry and forest berry fruit. Quite a bit going on, in a young key that's in mid stride. On the palate it's full, with fairly intense cherry fruit supported by dusky graphite bitterness, while direction comes from equally dusky savory acidity, and it flows into a clean savory fruit laced finish that gains definition from underlying bitterness. It's elegant, in a youthfully muscular key, and will gain considerably with time, though one could enjoy it now with a succulent roast. Expect it to age nicely for a decade at least, in any case.
2 stars

Novaia
Via Novaia, 3
37020, Marano di Valpolicella (VR)

Novaia Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with iodine mingled with some spice and slight sandalwood, with underlying hardwood ash. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with moderately intense savory plum fruit supported by peppery spice and smooth tannins that flow into a clean fairly savory finish. It's direct, in an up-front sort of way, and will drink well with succulent red meats, especially things off the grill or from the oven.
1 star

Pasqua
Via Belvedere, 135
37131, S. Felice Extra (VR)

Pasqua Vigneti e Cantine Villa Borghetti Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, in a greenish sort of way, with sandalwood and balsam mingling with green leather and rather haunting spice, though there isn't much in the way of fruit. The palate reflects the nose, with greenish accents and hardwood ash spiciness, mingled with balsamic notes, but not much in the way of fruit, while there is instead ample alcohol that provides considerable warmth. I would have preferred more fruit than I found. This said, because of its aggressive power, it will drink well with fattier meats.
1 star

Pasqua Vigneti e Cantine Terre del Cariano - Cecilia Beretta Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Impenetrable black almandine with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is intense, and rather bitter, with hardwood ash mingled with balsamic notes and warmth, with underlying bitterness, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with much of the fullness coming from savory tannic accents and peppery spice, but again, not as much fruit as I would have liked. Drink it with succulent stews or hearty roasts that will balance its spicy, peppery power.
1 star

Recchia
Via Cà Bertoldi, 10
37024, Negrar (VR)

F.lli Recchia Cà Bertoldi Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by spicy berry jammy berry fruit accents and hints of gum Arabic, and some greenish sandalwood as well. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with moderate berry fruit that's overshadowed by peppery spice, and flows into a clean peppery finish with underlying tannic support. I'd have liked greater richness and lushness to the fruit, which falls short with respect to the body of the wine.
1 star

F.lli Recchia Enorama Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Impenetrable almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is smoky, with hardwood ash supported by some balsamic notes and spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich smoky plum fruit that is more tart than rich, and is supported by bitter accents that flow into a clean bitter smoky finish It's powerful, but lacking in the lushness that makes an Amarone enjoyable to drink.
1 star

Roccolo Grassi
Via S.Giovanni di Dio, 19
37030, Mezzane di Sotto (VR)
Tel: 045-8880089

Roccolo Grassi Amarone Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections; it's almost poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense, with sandalwood mingled with red berry fruit and some jammy notes, and some underlying greenish spice. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful red berry fruit supported by clean spicy tannins that flow into a clean, slightly greenish bitter finish. It's quite young, but will drink well with succulent roasts or hearty stews now, and will age nicely, becoming lacy over the next decade or two. In short, direct now, but destined to grow in a very interesting way with time.
2 stars

Sant'Antonio
Via Monti Garbi - Frazione San Briccio
37030, Mezzane di Sotto (VR)

Tenuta Sant'Antonio Selezione Antonio Casagrandi Amarone Della Valpolicella 2004
Impenetrable black almandine with black cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with jammy black currant fruit laced with India ink and some minerality with underlying heather from a cut field, which might sound odd, but works well. Nice depth. On the palate it's fairly rich, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins, while direction comes from pleasing sour plum acidity, and it all flows into a clean slightly bitter finish. Pleasant, and will drink well now with succulent roasts or stews, though it will reward those who have the patience to give it time. Expect it to come into its own in about 10 years.
2 stars

Tenuta Sant'Antonio Campo dei Gigli Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and black cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, and sugary, with a mixture of berry fruit and brown sugar with underlying alcohol and red berry fruit. Airy. On the palate it's full, and sweet, though not as sweet as a Recioto, with bright cherry and forest berry fruit that gains direction from sour berry fruit acidity, and is supported by sweet tannins that flow into a clean cherry and forest berry fruit finish. It's quite lively, and will drink very well with stews or roasts now, and will also age well for a number of years. In short, a wine to enjoy now, and also to set aside for the future. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

San Rustico
Via Pozzo, n. 2
37020, Valgatara (VR)

San Rustico Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and black cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with hardwood ash mingled with spice and some sandalwood, but not much fruit, On the palate it's full and fairly sweet, with cherry plum fruit supported by spicy tannins that flow into a clean spicy finish. I'd have liked greater depth to the fruit than I found; this said, it will drink well with flavorful red meats now, especially fatty roasts that will benefit from the peppery tannins, and will age nicely for at least a decade.
2 stars

San Rustico Gaso Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Impenetrable black almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is intense, with overripe cherry plum fruit supported by some greenish sandalwood spice and peppery accents, and it is all supported by sweetness that brings a Recioto to mind, On the palate it's fairly sweet, with rich dusky plum fruit supported by slightly balsamic warmth, and by clean sandalwood-laced tannins that flow into a fairly sweet finish with bitter sandalwood overtones. It's more an ammandorlato than an Amarone, and if you like this slightly sweeter style it will drink well either far from the table or with rich, flavorful to piquant cheeses. I would give it 3-5 years to get its bearings before drinking it in any case.
2 stars

Santa Sofia
Via Cà Dedè, 61
37020, Pedemonte (VR)

Santa Sofia Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately rich, with slightly sour berry fruit supported by balsamic notes and some greenish accents. Harmonious. On the palate it's full, with moderate fruit supported by bitter accents that flow into a clean bitter finish. I'd have liked greater fruit-driven richness than I found, though it is pleasant; I would give it a few years before drinking it, and expect it to become lacy with time.
2 stars

Santi
Via Ungheria, n. 33
37031, Illasi (VR)

Santi - GIV Proemio Amarone Della Valpolicella 2004
Impenetrable black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with powerful cut squash, which is unusual and likely a result of sandalwood-fruit interaction, with delicate spice and plums as well. On the palate it's full and much sweeter than I expected from the nose, with bright plum fruit that gains depth from India ink bitterness, and is supported by sweet tannins that are very smooth at the outset, and flow into a clean sandalwood-laced peppery finish. It's a bit unusual, and because of its sweetness is not a wine I would drink at the table, except with rich cheese dishes. I think that is developing, and though the sweetness will remain I would expect the bouquet and fruit to do interesting things over the next few years.
2 stars

Sartori
Via Casette, n. 2
37024, Negrar (VR)

Sartori Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflection and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, in a greenish key, with red berry fruit supported by some diesel fuel and warm greenish spice. Considerable depth, and I found it growing upon me. On the palate it's full, and bright, with lively red berry fruit supported by clean sweet tannins that have a peppery burr to them, and by bright berry fruit acidity that carries into a clean berry fruit finish with a lively underlying peppery tang. Quite pleasant, in a lively key, and will drink very well with succulent roasts or stews now, and promises to age well for a decade or probably more as well. In short, a wine for today and tomorrow.
88

Speri
Via Fontana, n. 14
37020, Pedemonte (VR)

Speri Viticoltori Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with sandalwood mingled with some spice, and a fair amount of iodine. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense generic berry fruit supported by considerable peppery spice that flows into a clean spicy finish. I'd have liked more fruit than I found.
1 star

Tinazzi
Via delle Torbiere, 13
37017, Lazise (VR)

Tinazzi Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black lam ruby with black cherry reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright berry fruit supported by brandied berry fruit and black currant overtones, with some iodine as well. On the palate it's fairly direct, with moderate berry fruit that is supported by tannins that have distinctly bitter overtones, and flow into a clean bitter finish. To be frank, I'd have expected greater richness of fruit than I found; it falls a bit flat.
1 star

Tinazzi La Bastia Cà Dei Rocchi Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Impenetrable black almandine with black reflections and almandine on the rim. The bouquet is mineral, with some spicy notes and sandalwood, but not much in the way of fruit, and I would have expected more despite its being muted. On the palate it's ample, with moderate berry fruit supported by clean iodine laced minerality and spice, while the tannins are smooth and fairly rich; again, I would have expected more fruit than I found. As things stand, the tannins carry the show and though they do do a good job, fruit would be much better suited for this task.
1 star

Tinazzi Aurum - Valleselle Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with dusky red berry fruit mingled with peppery spice and a fair amount of sandalwood-cedar. Brooding, and very young. On the palate it's powerful, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by angry peppery spice and full tannins that have yet to completely absorb the wood they aged in. It needs time, at least a couple of years, though one could press it into service now with a well marbled porterhouse cut.
1 star

Tedeschi F.lli
Via Giuseppe Verdi, n. 4/a
37020, Pedemonte (VR)

F.lli Tedeschi Capitel MonteOlmi Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with jammy plum fruit mingled with sandalwood and licorice root; it gives an impression of being in mid-stride, and as it opens savory balsamic notes begin to emerge as well. On the palate it's full, and bright, with rich cherry fruit supported by clean slightly mineral acidity and by tannins that are powerful and steely, and flow into a long finish. It is again young, but shows considerable promise, and will drink nicely with stews or roasts, though I would give it a couple of years to get its balance, and expect it to age well for a decade or more.
2 stars

Tenute Galtarossa
Via Andrea Monga, 9
37029 San Pietro in Cariano (VR)

Tenute Galtarossa Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is intense, in a rather haunting elegant key, with cherry fruit that has slight hints of brandied about it, supported by some licorice and hints of savory sandalwood. Pleasant, and augurs well for the future too. On the palate it's full, and fairly sweet, though not quite in the ammandorlato range, with powerful forest berry fruit, in particular black currants, supported by warmth and savory spice, while there is also some citric acidity to provide direction, and it all flows into a warm spicy finish that has a youthful peppery buzz. It's graceful, and though one could enjoy it now with a hearty stew or roast, I think it will profit considerably from more time in bottle. Expect it to age well for at least a decade and probably much more.
2 stars

Tommasi
Via Ronchetto, n. 2
37020, Pedemonte (VR)

Tommasi Viticoltori Cà Florian Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Impenetrable black cherry with some garnet in the rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense, though it gives an impression of being in mid stride; there's spice mingled with iodine and some slightly brandied prunes, while more swishing brings up sandalwood as well. On the palate it's full, in an oddly empty way, with the fullness coming much more from the peppery structure of the tannins than from the fruit -- sweeter than expected cherry plum -- which is overshadowed. It feels like it's in the stupid phase, when a wine shuts down after being bottled, and from whence it may emerge with time, at which point the wine will be fairly lacy. But time will tell.
1 star

Trabucchi
Località Monte Tenda, n. 4
37031, Illasi (VR)

Tarabucchi Amarone Della Valpolicella 2004
Impenetrable black almandine ruby; poured ink. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright black currant fruit supported by considerable sweetness and some sandalwood that complements nicely; the overall impression is considerable youth in a key that brings Recioto to mind. The palate even more; the wine is quite sweet, enough to be considered ammandorlato more than Amarone, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight peppery burr to them, and flow into a clean fairly sweet finis with sandalwood underpinning. Because of its sweetness it's more a cheese or far-from the table wine, and that is how I would drink it, probably fairly soon to enjoy its freshness. It's particular, and you should only consider it if you like this style.
1 star

Vigneti Villabella
Località Cà Nova 2
37011 Calmasino di Bardolino 37011 (VR)

Vigneti Villabella Amarone Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with sandalwood and some iodine mingled with sea salt, but not much fruit, and though harmonious it somehow brings to mind a person hiding behind a blind. On the palate it's full, with rich fairly acidic cherry and forest berry fruit supported by acidity that's almost green apple, and by tannins that have a warm angular burr and flow into a greenish tannic finish with fruit underpinning that leaves the teeth squeaky clean. The Italian word that comes to mind is acerbo, which means both tart and (when applied to teens) undeveloped; the wine could do interesting things but at present it's a squalling toddler who needs at least a couple of years to come together. I think it will, and that it will drink nicely with succulent red meats in the future, and perhaps be something to meditate over, further into the future. The score reflects the present.
1 star

Venturini Massimino
Via Semonte, n. 20
37020, S. Floriano (VR)

Venturini Massimino Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Impenetrable black almandine with almandine in the rim. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up some sandalwood mingled with hints of iodine and slight sea salt. But not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with the fullness coming more from tannic peppery spice than fruit, and it flows into a warm peppery finish; the impression is oddly cavernous, and brings to mind a person wearing a coat several times too large. Because of its aggressiveness it will work best with succulent roasts, along the lines of leg of lamb, or with hearty stews.
1 star

Venturini Massimino Campomasua Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, though also still developing; there's prune fruit supported by slight brown sugar and hints of sandalwood laced with cedar and underlying spice. Harmonious. On the palate it's full, and again up in the air, with moderately rich cherry plum fruit supported by tannins that are frankly green and gain depth from bitter accents, while the finish is fairly long, and again fairly green. The overall impression is fairly aggressive, and because of its warmth and power it will work well with rich stews or roasts, including leg of lamb, and also be a good bet with a boiled dinner that includes fattier cuts as well as more lean meats. I'm not sure how well it will age, because greenness tends to remain with time.
1 star

Zardini Pietro
Via Don P. Fantoni, 3
37029, San Pietro in Cariano (VR)

Pietro Zardini Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Impenetrable black almandine; poured ink. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up cedar and sandalwood laced with some sea salt, and slight balsamic notes. Not much fruit, though with time some plum does appear. On the palate it's full, with fairly bright peppery spice overshadowing berry fruit; the impression is one of a painting with a cloth thrown over it -- one can see the outline, but not the details. And it all flows into a tart finish with peppery hardwood ash. It needs time, at least a year and likely two to get its bearings, and to be honest I'm not sure how the fruit will emerge. If one were to drink it now, it would work best with succulent roasts along the lines of leg of lamb.
1 star

Zenato
Via San Benedetto di Lugana, 8
37019, Peschiera (VR)

Azienda Vitivinicola Zenato Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry and forest berry fruit mingled with some sandalwood and slight savory accents, while there's also an airy acidity that adds grace. Harmonious, though also very young, and it clearly has a ways to go. On the palate it's full, and sweeter than I expected from the nose, with bright cherry plum fruit that gains direction from lively rather mineral acidity, and is supported by clean tannins that have a peppery greenish sandalwood burr and flow into a warm peppery finish. Very young, and pleasant enough, though the word that comes to mind as it flows over the tongue is sassy more than finesse, and this is because of its youth. Give it time to develop, and I would expect it to smooth considerably as it does, gaining grace and elegance in a fruit driven fairly international style.
2 stars

Zeni
Via Costabella, 9
37011, Bardolino (VR)

Zeni F.lli Amarone Della Valpolicella 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, and rich, with plum and cherry fruit supported by haunting sandalwood and spice with an underpinning of moist brown sugar sweetness. Exotic. On the palate it's full, rich, and fairly sweet, with powerful cherry plum fruit that gains direction from lively balsamic acidity, and is supported by bright slightly greenish tannins that flow into a clean peppery finish. It's pleasant, in a boisterously youthful key, and will drink nicely now with succulent roasts or hearty stews, and will also be a good bet with a rich boiled dinner. I think it will also age nicely, gaining depth and elegance over time. If you like the style, it's worth seeking out.
2 stars