Tuesday, July 08, 2008

Commendator G. B. Burlotto: Welcome Alberto! And Fine Wines From Verduno

My last stop at Vintialy each year is to visit Marina Burlotto and her son Fabio, who continue to pour long after others have begin to disassemble their booths. This year was no exception, though I couldn't help but note that he was distracted, and staring off into space between wines.

"I'm going to be a father," he replied when I asked what was on his mind, and at that point I understood his distraction very well. Son Alberto arrived a couple days ago; his mom Federica and he are doing fine, and what better way (for me) to celebrate than publish my notes for their wines?

Commendator G. B. Burlotto Te Elatis Vino da Tavola Rosato
None of the appellations that cover the Langhe contemplate rosé wines, and therefore this is a table wine, and as such has no vintage. But it's a 2007. Lively pinkish salmon with brilliant reflections. Rich bouquet with intense greenish accents mingled with clean red berry fruit and sour forest berry fruit acidity, almost cranberry, and this is Pelaverga at work (the blend is 40 Nebbiolo, 45 Pelaverga, and 15 Barbera). Pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's fresh, with rich raspberry fruit supported by clean slightly greenish acidity that flows into a clean bright berry fruit finish with cleansing acidity. A perfect picnic wine that will drink well with all sorts of summer dishes and also be nice in a carefree winter moment too.
2 stars

Commendator G. B. Burlotto Dives Langhe DOC 2006
Lot DL107
This is a Sauvignon, and is brassy gold with green reflections. The bouquet is bright, with powerful, well -- casting PC aside -- sweaty redheaded woman laced with floral accents and crushed herbs, especially sage, with underlying honeydew melon. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's ample and bright, with greenish citric fruit that has an underpinning of bright gooseberry and flows into a clean bitter gooseberry finish. Extremely varietal, and if you like Sauvignon you will like it, but you have to like Sauvignon. It will work well as an aperitif, or with white meats or fish, including richly flavored grilled fish. It will also age nicely for several years, though its present freshness is nice. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Commendator G. B. Burlotto Pelaverga DOC 2006
Lot VP 207
Lively bright cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, with sandalwood and berry fruit laced with spice and herbal accents (from the grapes), supported by pleasing spice. Quite nice, and considerable elegance. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright sandalwood-laced berry fruit supported by clean brambly tannins that flow into a clean fairly long sandalwood laced berry fruit finish. Pleasant, and will go very well with dishes that can be difficult to pair, for example a bell pepper flan or finianziera, the classic Piemontese organ meat stew. For that matter, it would also be good with a Tuscan Cibreo, which is made with chicken combs and whatnot. Worth seeking out if you like intensely aromatic and slightly exotic wines, and you can expect the bottle to go quickly.
2 stars

Commendator G. B. Burlotto Dolcetto D'Alba DOC 2006
Lot DA107
Deep cherry ruby with violet rim. Bright bouquet with lively cherry and sour red currant fruit with a greenish underpinning supported by clean, zesty bitter almonds. Invigorating. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful red berry fruit supported by clean bright acidity and by zesty tannins that have a warm, deft bitter burr and flow into a fairly long bitter berry fruit finish laced with underbrush. A versatile food wine that will go quickly with grilled meats and light stews, and you will want a second bottle. Worth seeking out.
88-90

Commendator G. B. Burlotto Barbera D'Alba 2006
Lot BA 107
Deep cherry ruby with cherry rim. Bright bouquet with clean zesty raspberry and forest berry fruit fruit supported by raspberry and red currant acidity. Quite fresh. On the palate it's bright, with lively red berry fruit supported by clean tart acidity and by smooth slightly greenish tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning and lasting acidity. It's quite pleasant, what I look for in a Barbera (a bright, lively wine unencumbered by wood), and will drink very well with foods. A second bottle may come in handy.
2 stars

Commendator G. B. Burlotto Aves Barbera D'Alba 2006
Lot BAA107
Deep black almandine ruby with blackish reflections and rim. The bouquet is powerful, with red berry fruit supported by cedar and warm citric spice with some minerality as well. Quite fresh, On the palate it's full and quite soft -- an effect of small oak barrels -- with ample red berry fruit supported by smooth cedar-laced tannins that gradually give way to lasting warmth, a testament from the natural acidity of the grape. It's a good oaked Barbera with much more acidity and life than many oaked Barbere display, but I found myself missing the carefree zestiness of the basic wine. A wine writer picking nits; it will drink very well with succulent grilled meats or hearty roasts, and will also work well with flavorful stews, including game such as venison or boar. If you want to age it, it will hold well 3-5 years.
88-90

Commendator G. B. Burlotto Mores Langhe DOC 2005
Lot ML107
Lively ruby with ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright berry fruit acidity laced with cherry and berry fruit, and some hints of Rosa Canina and green leather -- in other words, both Barbera and Nebbiolo make their presence felt. On the palate it's bright, with rich red berry fruit supported by bright sour raspberry acidity, while the tannins are clean and very young, with splintery accents. It's pleasant, but needs another year or two to get its bearings, by which point it will be quite elegant. In short, a promising preteen who needs time, and will age well for another 5-8 years. Drink it with a succulent roast or stew.
2 stars

Commendator G. B. Burlotto Langhe Nebbiolo 2006
Lot LN107
Lively cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is deft, and bright, with lively cherry acidity and clean raspberry fruit with floral accents. On the palate it's full, and bright, with lively greenish berry fruit supported by clean bright sour fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long clean finish. Pleasant, though very young, an will drink well now with succulent red meats -- e.g. a grilled steak. It will also age nicely for 5-8 years, gaining considerable grace with time. A tomboy now, whose knees and elbows are more evident than they will be with time.
2 stars

Commendator G. B. Burlotto Langhe Freisa DOC 2005
Lot LG248
Freisa is, according to genetic studies, a close relative of Nebbiolo. It's also one of the wines best loved by Piemontesi. It's deep almandine with cherry reflections and almandine rim, and has a fresh bouquet with clean floral accents mingled with raspberry fruit and acidity, and some fresh sandalwood greenness, with underlying alcohol. Quite pleasant. On the palate it's fresh, bright, and light, with lively berry fruit supported by brisk brambly acidity and by tannins that are clean and fresh, and have a slight greenish burr that leads into a clean fresh finish. A pleasant picnic wine that is also well suited to quickly cooked meats, light pasta dishes, and so on. Drink it now
2 stars

Commendator G. B. Burlotto Barolo 2004
Lot BR107
Almandine with cherry ruby reflections. The bouquet is fresh and young, with red berry fruit supported by deft acidity and some goudron, with clean savory accents as well, along with green leather and fairly bright acidity. Enticing in youth. On the palate it's full and rich, with elegant red berry fruit supported by clean slightly blocky tannins and bright sour berry fruit acidity that flows into a clean rich berry fruit finish. Pleasant though woefully young, and it will drink well with rich red meats, but needs time, at least a year. If you have the patience to give it more -- 10, 15, even -- you will be richly rewarded.
2 stars

Commendator G. B. Burlotto Barolo Acclivi 2004
Lot BPA107
Deep almandine ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with clean bright berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity laced with green leather and hints of mint. It's pleasant, with greater depth than the Barolo Base, but is also something of a work in progress. On the palate it's full and smooth, with powerful cherry fruit supported by clean slightly greenish cherry acidity and by clean deft tannins that are ample and have a slight youthful burr to them. Quite nice, but is obviously at the beginning of a long journey, and though one could drink it now with a steak or roast (lamb comes to mind), those with the patience to wait will be richly rewarded.
88-90

Commendator G. B. Burlotto Barolo Vigneto Monvigliero 2004
Lot BRM107
Lively almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is rich, with powerful berry fruit supported by rosa canina laced with green leather, tar, and some bitter coffee grounds. Beautiful depth and a great lot going on in a young Nebbiolo. Impressive. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful berry fruit supported by clean mineral acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long clean finish. Quick to write, but there's tremendous harmony and depth, and though one could drink it now with a roast, to do so would be a waste, because it will do most impressive things over the coming years -- expect it to age well through at least 2030. In short, a wine to set aside for a special occasion sometime.
88-90

Commendator G. B. Burlotto Barolo Vigneto Cannubi 2004
Lot BRM 107
Deep almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with delicate rosa canina laced with red berry fruit and green leather and spice. Very young but all the pieces are in place, and the harmony is considerable. On the palate it's full, with rich deft red berry fruit supported by bright mineral acidity and clean sweet tannins that flow into a long clean slightly greenish tannic finish. Rare harmony and finesse for a wine so young, and as was the case for the 2004 Monvigliero, it's a wine that deserves to be set aside for years if not decades.
90-92

Bottom Line: Beautiful wines in a decidedly traditional key.

And Again, Benvenuto Alberto!

Commendator Burlotto's Site, which also has a section dedicated to La Locanda Dell'Orso Bevitore (The Inn of the Drinking Bear), their Agritursmo.

1 comment:

The Candid Corker said...

Thank you for this post! I have been trying to find notes on Burlotto Barolo Acclivi 2004!