Frascati DOC: A Quick Rundown

Frascati is one of the classic Roman appellations, a white wine that many (correctly) associate with open-air dining in the Eternal City - it's one of the wines commonly sold by the pitcher in Roman eatieries, and goes very well with the classic quickly cooked Roman pasta dishes, for example bucatini all'Amatriciana or saltimbocca alla Romana.

Given its association with Roman trattorie, one might be tempted to dismiss it as a jug wine of little consequence, But I wouldn't agree. At least not completely; there's no denying that a lot of Frascati DOC is jug wine, but there are also winemakers who are devoting care and attention to it, with excellent results.

To begin at the beginning, Frascati, like many other Italian wines, is a blend: It must be 50% Malvasia Bianca di Candia. That's set, but winemakers have considerable latitude for the remaining 50%: 10-20% Trebbiano Toscano, 10-40% Malvasia del Lazio (the Puntinata clone), and also up to 30% Greco, Trebbiano Giallo, Bellone, and Bombino Bianco, and up to 15% other white varietals allowed in the Regione Lazio. In other words, a Frascati could be 50% Malvasia Bianca di Candia, 10% Trebbiano, and 40% Malvasia del Lazio, but it could also be 50% Malvasia Bianca di Candia, 10% Trebbiano Toscano, 10% Malvasia del Lazio, and a combination of one or more lesser varietals -- for example, Greco and Grechetto are popular, as is Bombino Bianco, while another producer who is aiming for a more international wine adds Sauvignon Blanc instead. The one varietal nobody I talked with was enthusiastic about was Trebbiano Toscano; most said they used the minimum required and no more.

Vineyards must be planted on well exposed, well-drained but not totally dry volcanic soils rich in potassium and phosphorous, and poor in calcium. The minimum planting density for new vineyards is 3000 vines per hectare, while the maximum yield is 140 quintals per hectare for Frascati Spumante (which I didn't taste) and 130 quintals per hectare (13 tons) for Frascati Superiore. This is a lot, and many producers farm to lower yields.

Fermentation is generally in steel, but wood is allowed, and some producers are using it with their Frascati Superiore, with interesting results.

Frascati Vs. Frascati Superiore?

The appellation allows the production of both. As one might expect, plain Frascati is slightly less concentrated and less alcoholic: It is released in the spring following the harvest, and must be at least 11% alcohol, have a minimum acidity of 4.5 g/l, and a minimum dry residue of 15 g/l. Producers can indicate the vintage but are not required to do so.

Frascati Superiore is also released in the spring following the harvest, but must be at least 11.5% alcohol, with a minimum total acidity of 4.5 g/l, and a minimum dry residue of 15 g/l. Producers must indicate the vintage.

The other important thing to keep in mind when selecting Frascati is that it can be either dry - Secco - demi-sec - Amabile - or sweet - Abboccato, and the label must say what it is. I bring this up as a matter of scruple, because all the Frascati Superiore I was given at Vinitaly -- I simply asked producers for their Frascati Superiore -- was Secco. Nobody offered anything Amabile or Abboccato.

And what to drink with these wines? Simple, quickly cooked foods ranging from pizza through vegetable frttatas and eggplant or pepper-based dishes, to red sauced pasta dishes (and pasta alla carbonara), and onto quickly cooked meats or fish, including mildly spiced oriental dishes. In short, Frascati Superiore is quite versatile, and will contribute nicely to a wide variety of situations.

Enough Talk! The Wines:

Cantina Cerquetta
Via Fontana Candida, 20
00040 Monteporzio Catone (RM)
http://www.cantinacerquetta.it

Cantina Cerquetta Frascati Superiore DOC 2007
Lively brassy gold with brassy reflections. The bouquet is fresh, with some bitter accents mingled with white berry fruit and moderate acidity. On the palate it's light, and rather soft, with clean mineral-laced citric fruit that flows into a clean bitter finish. Direct, and will drink well with foods, but doesn't display as much depth as I might have liked.
1 star

Cantina Cerquetta Antico Cenacolo Frascati Superiore DOC 2007
This is made from Trebbiano Verde, Malvasia del Lazio, and several other autochthonous grapes. It's bouquet is surprisingly rich, with clean herbal accents including heather from a freshly cut field, minerality, and some wood smoke too. Pleasant complexity. On the palate it's full and rather languid, with pleasing minerality supported by mineral acidity that flows into a clean mineral finish. It's fairly direct, a food wine that will drink well with white meats or fish, and also be a nice apartitif. Quite fresh, and the bottle will go quickly.
2 stars

Cantine Colli Di Catone S.r.l.
Via Frascati, 31-33
00040 Monteporzio Catone (RM)
http://www.collidicatone.it

Colli di Catone Frascati Superiore DOC 2007
Pale brassy yellow with greenish brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly mineral with some greenish accents. On the palate it's direct, with clean bitter accents and some savory notes that increase in the finish. It will work quite well with foods.
1 star

Colli di Catone Villa Romana Frascati Superiore DOC 2007
This has more Malvasia del Lazio, and some Chardonnay to increase fruitiness -- a wine they developed to attract international consumers who might not be interested in a Frascati. It's pale brassy white with brassy reflections, and has a fairly rich bouquet with floral accents and minerality (the former from the Chardonnay) supported by hints of wood smoke and heather from a cut field in summer. On the palate it's full, and languid, with pleasant white fruit -- specifically yellow peach -- supported by a mix of tart minerality and warmth that flows into a long warm peach and white plum finish. Pleasant and quite approachable; it will drink well with simple meats or fish, and also work well with vegetarian dishes.
2 stars

Colli di Catone Satinato Frascati Superiore DOC 2007
This is a 50-50 blend of Malvasia del Lazio and Malvasia di Candia; it's brassy yellow with brassy reflections and has a fairly intense, quite mineral bouquet that gains depth from hints of wood smoke, vegetal accents, and spice. On the palate it's full, and quite mineral, with clean rather languid minerality that flows into a clean mineral finish with tart overtones.
2 stars

Colli di Catone Colle Gaio Frascati Superiore DOC 2004
This is a single vineyard wine made entirely of Malvasia del Lazio. The fermentation is long and slow, and it then spends a year in tank, followed by 2 years in bottle. It's lively brassy yellow with brassy reflections and slightly greenish reflections. The bouquet is pleasant, with white berry fruit mingled with mineral acidity supported by pungent overtones. On the palate it's rich, with bright tropical fruit -- pineapple laced with grapefruit -- supported by greenish acidity and slight sweetness that flows into a long greenish finish. Pleasant, and interesting from a wine writer's standpoint because it provides concrete proof that Frascati can age much better than is generally thought. It will drink well with firm, not too sharp cheeses, and with white meats. Atypical for a Frascati, but I enjoyed it, and one could also drink it chilled on a hot day.
2 stars

After the current vintage, a quick and very interesting vertical of Colli di Catone Colle Gaio Frascati DOC:

Colli di Catone Colle Gaio Frascati Superiore DOC 2001
Brassy gold with brassy reflections. The bouquet is beginning to mature, with pungent gunflint ingled with tartness and hints of caramel; it's pleasant. On the palate it's full and languid, with clean soft white berry fruit supported by savory minerality that flows into a long savory finish. Pleasant, and eye-opening, because one would never expect a Frascati to age this well for this long.
2 stars

Colli di Catone Colle Gaio Frascati Superiore DOC 1998
Lively greenish gold, and looks a little fresher than the 2001. The bouquet is too, with deft gunflint supported by minerality and clean spice, with underlying caramel and savory accents. On the palate it's full and fresh, with clean citric pineapple fruit supported by clean spicy minerality and considerable tart acidity that flows into a clean tart finish. Quite nice, and I would never have guessed its age; I rather suspect the vintage was cooler than 2001, and this makes for the greater freshness. A pity to pour it out.
88

Colli di Catone Colle Gaio Frascati Superiore DOC 1997
Brassy greenish gold with brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with citric fruit mingled with some gunflint; by comparison with the 98 it's not as well defined and stumbles some, though it is pleasant. On the palate it's full, and rich, with fairly intense minerality laced with clean citric acidity; by comparison with the 98 it's less acidic, and therefore more spread out. The finish is clean and savory with gunflint bitterness. Pleasant, quite, in fact, though the 98 has greater depth and finesse.
2 stars

Colli di Catone Colle Gaio Frascati Superiore DOC 1994
Deep lemony yellow with brassy reflections; it shows its age but isn't discoloring. The bouquet is moderately intense, with gunflint that opens to reveal spice and bitterness as well. Fair amount going on. On the palate it's ample and clean, with bright lemony fruit supported by peppery spice and clean bitterness that carries, along with the fruit, into a very long citric finish. A decidedly pleasant surprise, because I would never have thought Frascati capable of aging this way.
2 stars

Colli di Catone also owns Casal Pilozzo:

Casal Pilozzo Frascati Superiore Secco DOC 2007
Pale brassy white with greenish reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense with pleasing hoppy (as in the aroma of the hops one adds to the wort when making beer) accents supported by greenish acidity and some spice. A bit unusual for a Frascati, but I liked it. On the palate it's full, and fairly sweet, with bright minerality that has some greenish tannic support from the grapes, and flows into a warm fairly sweet finish that gradually resolves into clean tart acidity. Pleasant, and frankly intriguing on the nose, and will work well as an aperitif with cheese or fish dishes, and will hold well for 3-5 years. The hops are particular, but if you like them you will enjoy the wine very much.
2 stars

Alma Vini
Via di Fontana Candida, 381
00132 Roma (RM)
http://www.casatamerge.it

Alma Vini Conte Jacopo Frascati Superiore DOC 2007
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections. The bouquet is delicate, with minerality mingled with some heather and clean bitterness with underlying acidity. On the palate it0s full, with rich honey-laced very ripe apricot fruit that gives way to mineral warmth with a long warm acidic burr. Quite nice, and will work very well as an aperitif or with fish, and also with quickly cooked meats. Worth seeking out.
88-90

Cantina Sociale Di Monteporzio Catone
Via Aldo Moro, 5
00040 Monteporzio Catone (RM)
http://www.cantinasocialempc.com

Cantina Di Monteporzio Frascati DOC Superiore 2007
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and pale rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish honeydew melon supported by gunflint and some spice with hints of underlying sweetness. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich lemony fruit supported by cleans our lemony acidity and a slight greenish tannic burr from grapes that flows into a warm citric finish. Quite approachable, in a direct sort of way, one of those wines one sets out on the table and has to replenish quickly; drink it with light, zesty summer foods.
1 star

Cantina di Monteporzio Frascati Superiore Single Vineyard DOC 2007
Pale brassy yellow. The bouquet is fairly rich, with clean mineral acidity mingled with hops and some gunflint. On the palate it's light, and deft, with considerable minerality that grows in warmth and flows into a clean mineral finish with slight savory accents. Pleasant in a very direct key, and will drink well with antipasti, deft fish, and quickly cooked meats.
2 stars

Cantine Volpetti
Via Nettunense Km 7,800, 21
00040 Ariccia (RM)
http://www.cantinevolpetti.it

Cantine Volpetti Elegie Romane Frascati Superiore DOC 2007
Deeper gold than many, with brassy reflections and highlights. The bouquet is delicate, with pleasant floral accents supported by clean minerality and hints of honeydew melon, which are joined by heather and sage as it opens. On the palate it's ample and fairly soft, with moderate minerality supported by tart bitterness that flows into a clean mineral finish. I's have liked greater fullness on the palate; it ocmes across as a bit flat, and is less interesting than the nose suggested.
1 star

Cantine Silvestri
Via Nettunense km. 18,190
00040 Lanuvio (RM)
http://www.cantinesilvestri.it

Cantine Silvestri Frascati Superiore 2007
This is a blend of Malvasia Puntata, Malvasia di Candia, Trebbiano del Lazio, and Trebbiano Toscano. It's brassy yellow with golden reflections, and has a bright bouquet with heather and honeydew melon mingled with some spice and minerality. On the palate it's full, with bright mineral acidity and clean citric fruit supported by clean spice and slightly greenish tannic support from grapes that flow into a clean fairly bitter finish. Pleasant, and will work nicely as an aperitif or with a wide spectrum of quickly cooked foods. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars

Cantine Silvestri Antica Roma Frascati Superiore DOC 2007
This has the same varietals, plu 30% Greco. It's pale brassy gold with pinkish highlights due to the Greco. The bouquet is fairly rich, with minerality and white berry fruit supported by some gunflint, a degree of bitterness, and some animal hair. On the palate it's full and round, with pleasant white peach fruit that gains direction from yellow plum acidity and flows into a clean tart finish. Pleasant, and will drink very well as an aperitif or with quick summer dishes. By comparison with the Frascati base it's a bit heavier and not quite as graceful, but pleasant nonetheless.
2 stars

Agricoltura Capodarco Soc. Coop. A RL
Viale S. Nilo, 10, Grottaferrata (RM)
Tel 06 9413492

Agricoltura Capodarco San Nilo Frascati DOC 2006
Pale brassy yellow with brilliant reflections. Clean bouquet with deft minerality and hints of graphite mingled with some greenish acidity. The palate is ample, and sweeter than one might have expected, with pleasant white fruit - plum and peach - supported by clean white berry fruit acidity that flows into a clean fairly long finish with clean bitter accents. Pleasant, and has a fair amount to say.
2 stars

Agricoltura Capodarco Biancodarco Frascati Superiore DOC 2006
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections. The bouquet is elegant, with minerality laced with some gunflint and greenish accents. On the palate it's quite mineral, with clean minearal acidity that flows into a mineral finish. Pleasant, but I'd have liked greater richness overtones the palate.
1 star

Gotto D'Oro
Via del Divino Amore, 115
00040 Frattocchie Di Marino (RM
http://www.gottodoro.it

Gotto D'Oro Frascati Superiore DOC 2007
Pale brassy white with brilliant brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with floral accents mingled with some minerality and hints of honeydew melon with underlying vegetal spice. On the palate it's medium bodied and bright, with ample white fruit -- peaches with some tart apricot -- supported by clean fresh acidity that flows into a warm finish. Direct, and a bit short, and while this shortness invites another sip, it also means the bottle will go even faster than it otherwise might. A perfect wine for simple foods, and ideal on cookout or picnic.
1 star

Castel De Paolis
Via Val de Paolis s.n.c.
00046 Grottaferrata (RM)
http://www.casteldepaolis.it

Castel De Paolis Frascati Superiore DOC 2007
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections. Fairly rich bouquet with bright hops mingled with spice and slight greenish accents, and underlying ground pepper and gunflint. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's bright, with pleasant honeydew melon fruit laced with warm hoppy acidity and flows into a clean mineral finish. A very pleasant lark of a wine.
2 stars

Castel De Paolis Frascati Superiore DOC 2006
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is rich and quite mineral with heather and some faintly lemony acidity. On the palate it's full and rich, with fairly intense lemony fruit that gains depth from hoppy greenness and flows into a clean fairly long mineral finish. Quite pleasant, and will drink well with antipasti, egg-based dishes, and quickly cooked lighter meats, for example Saltimbocca. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Cantina Villa Franca
Via Villafranca, 14 00041
Albano Laziale (RM)
http://www.cantinavillafranca.com

Cantina Villa Franca Frascati Superiore Secco DOC 2007
This is a blend of Malvasia, Malvasia del Lazio, Trebbiano, and Grechetto; it's pale brassy gold with greenish reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with clean heather and some minerality. On the palate it's fresh, and savory, with clean citric acidity supported by savory accents that flow into a warm lemony finish with tart accents. Quite nice, and will work well with quickly cooked meats, fish, and fried meats and vegetables.
2 stars

Cantina Villa Franca Couvage Frascati Superiore DOC 2007
This undergoes slight cryomaceration prior to fermentation; the wine is brassy white with brilliant brassy reflections, and has a deft bouquet with clean minerality laced with savory accents and slight hints of banana. On the palate it's ample and bright, with white berry fruit and savory apricot fruit supported by clean bitter acidity that flows into a clean bitter finish. It displays considerably more depth than the basic wine, and will work very well with fish, or with creamy white meats, and has the capacity to age well for a number of years. Worth seeking out.
88-90

Cantine Conte Zandotti
Via di Colle Mattia, 8
00132 Roma (RM)
http://www.cantinecontezandotti.it

Conte Zandotti Frascati Superiore DOC 2007
This is 70% Malvasia Puntato del Lazio, with the remainder a mix of Trebbiano, Greco, and Bombino, which is an old autochthonous varietal of the Castelli Romani. It's pale brassy white with brassy reflections and some greenish highlights, and has a clean bouquet with minerality and heather mingled with herbal accents. On the palate it's full and bright, with clean sour lemony fruit supported by sea salt minerality from the soil and by warm slightly greenish acidity. Pleasantly refreshing, and will drink nicely with foods.
2 stars

Conte Zandotti Frascati Superiore DOC 2006
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with heather and minerality supported by clean brambly acidity and some eucalyptus. On the palate it's bright,with pleasant minerality that gains warmth as it flows into a long mineral finish. Quite drinkable, and will work well with a wide variety of light, quickly prepared foods -- in other words, Roman cooking.
2 stars

Villa Simone
Via Frascati - Colonna 29
00040 Monteporzio Catone (RM)
http://www.pierocostantini.it

Villa Simone Frascati Superiore DOC 2007
Lively brassy gold with greenish brassy reflections. The bouquet has floral accents mingled with savory minerality. On the palate it's ample, with clean pleasant not-too-ripe yellow peach fruit supported by warm acidity that flows into a clean, fresh, fairly tart finish. Pleasant, in a rather graceful way, and will drink quite well with foods.
2 stars

Villa Simone Villa dei Preti Frascati Superiore DOC 2007
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and greenish highlights. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright pineapple fruit supported by clean heather and some bright acidity. Quick to write, but there's a lot going on. On the palate it's full, and bright, with clean savory lemon fruit that gains depth from some mineral acidity and flows into a clean fairly bitter finsh. It's quite approachable, and will drink well with a wide variety of foods, from antipasti through salads and such, and on to quickly cooked meats or fish.
2 stars

Villa Simone Vigneto Filonardi Frascati Superiore DOC 2006
Pale brassy gold with greenish reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with pungent minerality laced with gunflint and some hints of caramel, and some sea salt. On the palate it's full, and bright, with pleasant minerality mingled with citric accents that flow into a clean citric finish with some apricot overtones, and minerality. Pleasant, displaying considerable finesse, and will drink very well with foods, though I might also be tempted to sip it far from the table. Worth seeking out.
88

Poggio le Volpi
Via Colle Pisano, 27
00040 Monteporzio Catone (RM)
http://www.poggiolevolpi.it

Poggio le Volpi People Frascati Superiore DOC 2007
The word "People" in English because it's a wine for everyone -- 20% Trebbiano, 10% Sauvignon, and 70% later-harvested Malvasia. Pale brassy white with brassy reflections. The bouquet is rich, with elegant floral accents laced with slight gooseberry and honeysuckle. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately rich white fruit, in particular peach, supported by clean moderately intense mineral acidity that flows into a clean bright finish. It's very approachable -- the People is apt -- and though a purist would frown at the Sauvignon, which adds a "come hither" feel, it is pleasant in an international key and will drink nicely at table.
2 stars

Poggio Le Volpo Epos Frascati Superiore DOC 2007
Tasted a prerelease sample; this is a selection of Malvasia and Trebbiano late harvested and fermented in upright open casks, followed by time on the lees. It's deeper gold with brassy reflections and has a much more intense nose, with citric and tart apricot acidity laced with herbal accents and some savory notes. Nice balance in a charged way. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright ripe apricot fruit that has an unexpected languid sweetness to it and flows into a fairly bitter finish. While the nose is charged, the palate lumbers, giving an impression of a muscular person gasping after trying to run on too hot a day.
1 star

Casale Mattia
Via Principe Amedeo, 19/23
00044 Frascati (RM)
http://www.casalemattia.it

Casale Mattia Terre del Casale Frascati Superiore Secco DOC 2007
Brassy yellow with brassy reflections. The bouquet is bright, with fresh rather pungent floral accents supported by clean bright yellow berry fruit and quite a bit of heather, and some bitter notes. Quite concentrated, and as it opens hoppy notes emerge too. On the palate it's bright, with lively minerality and clean citric acidity supported by greenish notes that flow into a clean sour white berry fruit finish. Quite drinkable, and will vanish from people's glasses at table.
2 stars

Casale Mattia Frascati Superiore Casale Mattia DOC 2007
"Bonum vinum letificat cor omnis," Good wine uplifts the hearts of all. This is Malvasia from an old vineyard, blended with Trebbiano and Bombino Mollo, another old varietal. It's pale brassy yellow with greenish highlights, and has a rich, clean bouquet with greenish honeydew melon supported by clean minerality and some spice, with gunflint as well. On the palate it's full, with bright minerality supported by clean citric acidity that flows into a clean, long bitter mineral finish. Pleasant in a more charged, more serious key, and will drink well with a wide variety of foods, from cheese or egg dishes through fish and onto white meats, and will also age nicely for at least 3-5 years, if you want to keep it that long.
2 stars

Casale Vallechiesa
Via Pietra Porzia, 19/23
00044 Frascati (RM)
http://www.casalevallechiesa.it

Casale Vallechiesa Le Rubbie Frascati Superiore DOC 2007
This is made from four varietals: Malvasia di Candia, Malvasia del Lazio, Trebbiano, and Greco. It's pale brassy yellow iw brassy reflections and white rim, and has a fairly rich bouquet with white flowers laced with honey and white peaches, and some underlying savory accents. On the palate it's bright, with brambly minerality that flows fairly quickly into a bitter finish with savory accents that is refreshing and will lead it to work well with foods. In short, direct and up front, and will drink well with foods.
1 star

Casale Vallechiesa Vallechiesa Frascati Superiore 2007
This is a vineyard selection made from Malvasia Bianca di Candia, Trebbiano Toscano, and Malvasia del Lazio, with 30% Greco and Bombino. It's pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and has a delicate bouquet with white flowers mingled with minerality and some savory accents. Nice balance and pleasing freshness. On the palate it's bright, with tart minerality that flows into a clean mineral finish; it's pleasant and will drink very well with rich pasta dishes or quickly cooked meats - I found it growing upon me and would be happy to seek it out.
2 stars

Principe Pallavicini
Vicolo Mazzarino, 14
00184 Roma (RM)
http://www.vinipallavicini.com

They have 50 hectares in Frascati (85 in all), and are ripping out Trebbiano in favor of Malvasia del Lazio, Greco Bianco and Grechetto. They aim to finish up with the minimum amount of Trebbiano required by the appellation, 10%.

Principe Pallavicini Frascati Superiore DOC 2007
Pale brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish herbal accents mingled with minerality and some gunflint, and underlying airiness. Quite fresh. On the palate it's bright, with clean warm lemony fruit supported by clean sour acidity that flows into a clean tart finish. Quite approachable, and will drink well with quickly cooked fish or meats, and also with Roman dishes in general. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars

Principe Pallavicini Poggio Verde Frascati Superiore DOC 2007
This has 20% Greco and Grechetto, and undergoes cryomaceration prior to fermentation, as well as 2 months on the lees subsequent to it with battonage. It had just been bottled when I tasted it, and had a rich bouquet with delicious apple mingled with ripe banana, which is an effect of the battonage; I would expect it to have gained minerality with time, because on the palate it's pleasingly full, with considerable glycerine -- another effect of battonage -- mingled with citric minerality that flows into a warmlemony finish with pleasing hints of licorice that are again an effect of the winemaking technique. It's deft, and will be quite nice as an aperitif or with fish or white meats. A nice application of modern technique -- battonage -- to a traditional wine. Worth seeking out.
88

Casale Marchese
Via di Vermicino, 68
00044 Frascati (RM)
http://www.casalemarchese.it

Casale Marchese Frascati Superiore Secco DOC 2007
Lively greenish gold with brassy greenish reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with brambly heather mingled with minerality, honeysuckle and some spice. On the palate it's fresh, with bright brambly white berry fruit supported by clean slightly greenish minerality that flows into a clean savory finish. Pleasant in a slightly overbuilt way -- there's not as much finesse as in some -- but will work well with foods.
1 star

Casale Marchese Frascati Cannellino DOC 2006
This is amabile, or sweet, and from late-harvested grapes. It's pale brassy white with greenish reflections and white rim. The bis fairly sweet, with rich floral accents - white blossoms mostly - mingled with hints of menthol and spice. On the palate it's clean, and sweet, with bright stewed regina Claudia plum fruit that gains direction from moderate acidity.
1 star

San Marco
Via di Mola Cavona, 26
00040 Frascati (RM)
http://www.sanmarcofrascati.it

San Marco Frascati DOC 2007
10% of the grapes undergo cryomaceration; it's pale brassy white, and has a fresh bouquet with clean floral accents and white berry fruit, while depth comes from savory notes. On the palate it's bright, with pleasant apricot-white plum fruit supported by clean lemony acidity and underlying minerality. Pleasant in a light deft key, and will drink nicely with simple meat or pasta dishes, and also with pizza and similar. Expect the bottle to go quickly.
2 stars

San Marco Crio 8 Frascati Superiore Secco DOC 2007
This is called Crio 8 because all the grapes cryomacerate for 8 hours. It's pale brassy yellow with slight pinish highlights and brassy reflections. The bouquet is bright, with deft minerality supported by white peach fruit and some floral accents. Pleasant. On the palate it's full, with bright minerality laced with some citric acidity that flows into a clean mineral finish. Again pleasant, and will drink well with a wide range of foods, from pasta with red sauces through fish and quickly cooked white meats. Expect the bottle to go quickly.
2 stars

Fontana Candida
Via Fontana Candida, 11
00040 Monteporzio Catone (RM)
http://www.giv.it

Fontana Candida Frascati Superiore Secco DOC 2007
A 50th anniversary bottle. It's pale brassy yellow with brassy highlights and reflections. The bouquet is fresh, with pleasing floral accents and some minerality mingled with white peaches. Pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's bright, with clean white fruit supported by minerality and moderate acidity that flow into a clean moderately mineral finish, Direct, and quite welcoming; it will drink well with a wide variety of foods, and also be pleasant with friends on a hot day when the wine is not the reason for the gathering.
1 star

Fontana Candida Terre dei Griffi Frascati Superiore Secco DOC 2007
Pale brassy white with white rim. The bouquet is mineral, with some underbrush and slight gunflint. Airy. On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with warm lemony fruit supported by slightly greenish bitter minerality that flows into a clean rather bitter finish. It's heavier than the basic Frascati, and comes across as trying hard, but to my mind comes up a bit short.
1 star

Fontana Candida Luna Mater Frascati Superiore DOC 2007
This is a new wine that's 50% Malvasia di Candia, 10% - the minimum - Trebbiano Toscano, 20% Malvasia del Lazio, and 10% each Greco and Bombino, and has a striking black and silver label. The wine is brilliant brassy yellow with golden highlights and has a fairly rich bouquet with apricot fruit laced with some green honeydew melon acidity and underlying savory accents with hints of wood smoke too. On the palate it's ample and rich, with fullness coming from glycerin and minerality supported barnyard tang tart warmth, while there is also ripe apricot fruit in the mix. Pleasant in a more muscular (for Frascati) key; if you prefer the lighter, tighter wines it won't work for you, but if you like this slightly bigger style you will enjoy it.
2 stars