The 2005 Roero and Barbaresco, Tasted at Alba Wines

To begin at the beginning, I'm sorry these notes have been so long in coming. This said, I have coupled the Roero and Barbaresco notes together because this year few producers presented Roeros, because the majority decided to hold back, aging the wines a little longer.

Both Roero and Barbaresco were presenting the 2005 vintage, and (as has been the case for many other Italian appellations) it was a distinct letdown with respect to 2004: much cooler, much more rain, and as a result many producers found themselves with weaker fruit, and used oak or other cellar techniques to compensate for Mother Nature's stinginess.

Many but by no means all, but what this means for the consumer is that one must select with greater care than in a better vintage.

The Wines, beginning with Roero, and Followed by Barbaresco and a few 2003 Barbaresco Riservas that instead come from a very hot vintage.

La Contea
Piazza Cocito, 8
12052 Neive (CN)
Italy
http://www.la-contea.it/

La Contea Mai Vist Roero 2005 DOCG
Garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by rosa canina and some spice from grape, opens nicely to reveal green leather as well. On the palate it's medium bodied, and rather languid, with fairly rich chewy cherry fruit that has a clean cedar-laced bitter underpinning and is supported by ample smooth tannins that again have a bitter tang to them, while the acidity is moderate, but sufficient to hold it up, and it all flows into a cedar-laced bitter finish. Quite young, in a fairly middle of the road key, and has a fair amount of baby fat now. If the body follows the nose over the next couple of years will be pleasant to drink with roasts or stews.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Cornarea
Via Valentino, 150
12043 Canale d'Alba (CN)
http://www.langhe.net/cornarea/

Cornarea Roero 2005 DOCG
Almandine with black reflections and paler rim. The bouquet is dusky, with a fair amount of cedar bitterness mingled with wood smoke, with iodine and sea salt emerging with swishing, but less fruit than I might have liked. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by clean slightly mineral acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly bright finish. It's a little thinner than some, and I'd have liked more depth to the fruit, but it will I think clean up nicely with time, becoming graceful in a rather ethereal key. If you like highly concentrated wines it won't work for you, but I think it will have something to say to a person of the proper disposition as it ages. I found it growing upon me.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola F.lli Massucco
Via Serra, 16
12050 Castagnito (CN)
http://www.cosebuonedicampagna.it

Massucco F.lli Roero 2005 DOCG
Deep black cherry with almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with considerable clean cedar, which casts a blanket over all else, hiding whatever fruit there may be. On the palate it's ample, with moderate savory berry fruit supported by tannins that are fairly aggressive, and by tart cedar-laced acidity that flows into a tongue-drying cedar finish. Too much oak for the amount of fruit, at least now, and though this may change it also may not.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Cascina Chicco
Via Roma, 80
12043 Canale (CN)
http://www.cascinachicco.com/

Cascina Chicco Montespinato Roero 2005 DOCG
Deep black cherry ruby black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit laced with green leather and rosa canina, and underlying spice. Nice balance in a traditional key. On the palate it's medium bodied, with graceful slightly sour cherry fruit supported by clean sour cherry acidity and by ample smooth tannins that have a slight hint of cedar to them, and flow into a clean warm berry fruit finish that's fairly long. It's pleasant, albeit very young, and though not one of these wines that's up front in a tasting, will drink very well with foods, in particular grilled meats (including lamb), roasts, and stews. I'd give it a year or two to get its bearings, and expect it to age well for a decade or more. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Ponchione Maurizio
Via R. Sacco, 9a
12040 Govone (CN)
http://www.albeisa.org/it/aziende_scheda.asp?id=14

Ponchione Maurizio Monfrini Roero 2005 DOCG
Almandine with black reflections and orangish almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and frankly medicinal with a strong cedar overlay at the outset that brings a linens chest to mind; with further swishing red berry fruit also emerges to balance the oak, and it assumes a pleasant international cast. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense generic berry fruit supported by some tart berry fruit acidity, and to a greater degree by cedary tannins that lay a dusty trail over the tongue and flow into a clean bitter cedar laced finish. It draws too much from oak for my preference, and not enough from fruit, at least now, and though the oak will fold in with time there is the problem of not enough fruit behind it.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Renato Buganza
Cascina Garbianotto, 4
12040 Piobesi d'Alba (CN)
http://www.renatobuganza.it

Buganza Renato Bric Paradis Roero 2005 DOCG
Almandine with black reflections and orange almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with smoky berry fruit supported by cedar and spice with underlying green leather. Nice balance, and very young. On the palate it's not as rich as I had expected from the nose, with fairly lean slightly brambly berry fruit supported by clean smooth tannins and moderate brambly acidity that flow into a clean bitter finish. I'd have liked greater fullness, though I think it might age nicely in a fairly ethereal way, becoming lacy with time.
1 star

Buganza Renato Gerbole Roero 2005 DOCG
Black almandine with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is jammy with a fair amount of acidity and some greenish accents with underlying peppery cedary spice. On the palate it's nondescript, with moderate berry fruit supported by some acidity, and by tannins that have a splintery burr, but aren't as defined as I might have liked, and flow into a bitter tannic finish with hints of hazelnut. It's as if the fruit stepped out for a breath of air, leaving everything else to hold the fort. Disconcerting.
1 star

Almondo Giovanni
Via San Rocco, 26
12046 Montà (CN)
http://www.giovannialmondo.com

Almondo Bric Valdiana Roero 2005 DOCG
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is an eye-opening rush of oak that brings barrel slats to mind; I'm sorry to say it but there's no other way to put it, and the fruit is at least now hidden by the wood. On the palate it's ample and oaky, with moderate berry fruit and more sour cherry acidity than I had expected, but also a terrific wash of cedar from the oaken barrels, which covers all.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Negro Angelo & Figli
Cascina Riveri
Frazione S. Anna, 1
12040 Monteu Roero (CN)
http://www.negroangelo.it/

Negro Angelo e Figli Prachiosso Roero 2005 DOCG
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry fruit supported by spice and some cedar, with an underpinning of green leather. Very young and obviously in mid stride, but promising. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright berry fruit supported by clean sour cherry acidity and by tannins that are still splintery and unsettled, and flow into a clean slightly bitter splintery finish with greenish overtones. It needs another year or two to get its bearings, but will clean up nicely in a middle of the road key, I think, and drink well with grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

Cascina Val del Prete di Bartolomeo Roagna
Strada Santuario, 2
12040 Priocca (CN)
Tel: +39 0173 616534

Cascina Val del Prete Roero 2005 DOCG
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is oaky, like sniffing a barrel slat, and while this is to be expected in a heavily oaked new wine, I'd at least have liked to find some fruit peering out from somewhere. Bitterness yes, airy cedar yes, fruit no. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with (again) quite a bit of cedar that overshadows all else and flows into a clean bitter finish with some warmth and hints of cocoa (also from wood). It's trying very hard, but the results, at least for me, do not work.
1 star

Cantina Del Nebbiolo
Via Torino, 17
12040 Vezza d'Alba (CN)
http://www.cantinadelnebbiolo.com

Cantina del Nebbiolo Roero 2005 DOCG
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with cherry fruit supported by some rosa canina and bell pepper (not roasted) as well mingled with spice, and some hints of berry fruit jam too. On the palate it's fairly rich, with clean young berry fruit supported by zesty cherry acidity laced with some vegetal accents, and by lively tannins that have a warm splintery burr and flow into a clean bitter finish with acidity and tannic underpinning. It's not a wine that will stand out at a tasting, in part because it's unsettled in its youth, but it will clean up nicely in a middle of the road key and be a pleasant wine to drink with foods, I think, ranging from meat-based risotti through stews and simple grilled meats. I'd give it 2 years to get its bearings, and expect it to age nicely for another 5-10.
2 stars

The 2005 Barbaresco

Adriano Marco E Vittorio
Frazione San Rocco Seno d'Elvio, 13A
12051 Alba (CN)
http://www.adrianovini.it

Adriano Marco e Vittorio Sanadaive Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a slightly rustic key, with fairly rich balsamic acidity mingled with sea salt and saddle leather; I found myself enjoying it. On the palate it's ample, with fairly powerful cherry fruit supported by clean bracing acidity and by tannins that are a bit behind in their development, with considerable splinteriness to them, and it all flows into a clean bitter finish with tannic underpinning. It's developing yet, and needs another couple of years to get its bearings, but will be quite nice with roasts or stews when it has, and will age well for at least a decade.
2 stars

Adriano Marco e Vittorio Basarin Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Almandine with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is muted at first swish, though further swishing brings up mentholated red berry fruit supported by spice and sour berry fruit acidity. On the palate it's bright, with fairly light berry fruit supported by clean mineral acidity and by tannins that are frankly brambly, and flow into a brambly tannic finish. It feels like a cool weather wine, and I found myself wishing there were more richness to the fruit, which is fairly flat.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Piazzo Armando
Frazione S.Rocco Seno D'Elvio, 31
12051 Alba (CN)
http://www.piazzo.it

Piazzo Armando Sorì Fratin Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is pungent, with cut flower bitterness mingled with some wood smoke and green leather; further swishing also brings out berry fruit and slight rosa canina. On the palate it's bright, with lively berry fruit supported by clean cherry acidity, and by tannins that are still packed with baby fat they have to lose. In short, it's very young, but will clean up well, becoming lacy with time. I'd give it 2-3 years, and expect it to age well for a decade or more.
2 stars

Piazzo Armando Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Deep black lam with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is more rustic than some, with balsamic accents mingled with stable straw and horse lather, and supported by pungent wood smoke. On the palate it's ample and fairly rich, with bright red berry fruit supported by clean berry fruit acidity that has some bitter accents, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly tart berry fruit finish. Fairly traditional, and will drink well with succulent roasts or stews; it also has the capacity to age well for a decade or more, and I would give it at least two years to develop before opening it.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Molino F.lli di Dario Molino
Via Ausario, 5
12050 Treiso (CN)
http://www.molinovini.com

Molino Fratelli Teorema Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up cedar mingled with spice and green leather, and some underlying berry fruit. On the palate it's full, with rich slightly sour cherry fruit supported by clean cherry acidity and by tannins that have a warm cedar-laced burr, and flow into a long cedary finish. It's in mid-stride, and though the destination promises to be quite nice, it has yet to get there. Give it a couple of years to get its bearings, and it could do very nice things over a longer period. In other words, if I had a case I'd set it aside in the depths of the cellar and leave it there for a number of years. And then drink it with an elegant roast. Worth seeking out for the future.
2 stars

Molino Fratelli Ausario Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Deep black garnet ruby with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is spicy, with nutmeg and cedar mingled with some underbrush, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by sour acidity that feels in an odd way distinct from the fruit, and by tannins that are ample and fairly dry, and flow into a dry tannic finish. It feels recently bottled, and though fruit may reemerge on the nose, the oaky preponderance on the palate may not fade with time.
1 star

Cascina Morassino
Via Ovello, 32
12050 Barbaresco (CN)
Tel 0173 635149

Cascina Morassino Ovello Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense in a cedary key with pungent bitterness and some frankly medicinal notes, but not much (yet) in the way of fruit. It may come, but the wood is powerful. On the palate it's ample and again heavily oaked, with moderate berry fruit overshadowed by cedary bitterness that provides the guidance, and tannins that have a strong tongue-drying cedary overly that flows into a distinctly cedary finish. It may -- with time -- reveal fruit, but then again it may not.
1 star

Cascina Morassino Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Deep black almandine with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is frairly rich, with delicate rosa canina mingled with mentholated spice and wet leather, while there is also an underpinning of red berry fruit. Very young, but nicely balanced. On the palate it's ample, with bright red berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and clean sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long fruit finish with tannic underpinning. It's pleasant in a youthful key, and brings to mind a teenager who's just beginning the transformation into adulthood. Promising, but not there yet, and though one could drink it now with a hearty stew or roast it will richly reward those with the patience to let it develop. I'd give it at least 5 years, and expect it to do much more over 10-15. Worth seeking out to set aside.
2 stars

Moccagatta
Via Rabajà, 24
12050 Barbaresco (CN)
Tel 0173 635152

Moccagatta Bric Balin Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is so oaky it's chemical at present, with aromas I associate more with a woodshop -- chips and shellac -- than a wine glass. On the palate it's full, with the fullness deriving more from wood, which has contributed mightily, than from fruit, and the finish is frankly cedary. I doubt it will ever completely digest the oak it has had forced upon it.
1 star

Moccagatta Basarin Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and quite bitter, almost quinine-like in its bitterness, with some medicinal notes as well but not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with moderate fruit that's strongly overshadowed by savory accents and tongue curling cedar that flows into a dry tannic finish. It's like licking a barrel slat, and though things may improve some with time, the basic cast is set, as it were.
1 star

Castello Di Verduno
Via Umberto I, 9
12060 Verduno (CN)
http://www.castellodiverduno.com

Castello di Verduno Rabajà Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a cedary key, with moderate spice as well, and some red berry fruit, but not too much, and hints of rosa canina. On the palate it's richer than I had expected from the nose, with fairly intense cherry and forest berry fruit supported by bitterness and fairly smooth tannins that flow into a clean cedar-laced tannic finish. It's pleasant enough, though it needs at least a year to get all of its pieces together, and probably two. It will drink well with succulent roasts or stews. I found it growing upon me.
2 stars

Azienda Vitivinicola Albino Rocca
Via Rabajà, 15
12050 Barbaresco (CN)
Tel 0173 635145

Rocca Albino Vigneto Brich Ronchi Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. Looks charged. The bouquet is powerful, and oaky, with quite a bit of cedar laced with pungent bitterness, mingled with savory accents, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and bitter, with moderate fruit supported by some tart acidity, and by ample bitter tannins that have a cedary underpinning, and flow into a clean bitter finish. I'd have liked more fruit than I found.
1 star

Rocca Albino Vigneto Loreto Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with chalky red berry fruit supported by spice and hints of raw beef. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by clean berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright finish. Pleasant, in a youthful way, and also (at present) up front, like a smiling teen. In short, a babe, and I would expect it to do interesting things with time. But it is pleasant now, and much less oaked than many of the other wines poured today. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Michele Chiarlo Azienda Vitivinicola
Strada Nizza-Canelli, 99
14042 Calamandrana (AT)
http://www.chiarlo.it

Chiarlo Michele Asili Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Deep black almandine with almandine in the rim. The bouquet is powerful, and frankly oaky, with a great deal of cedar mingled with spice, and not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, and fairly bitter, with only moderate fruit, which surrenders the driver's seat to cedar-laced bitterness that flows through the tannins and into a fairly long bitter finish. I would have expected, and hoped for more.
1 star

Rinaldi Francesco E Figli
Via U. Sacco, 4
12051 Alba (CN)
Tel: 0173 440484

Rinaldi Francesco e Figli Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Almandine with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is bright, with almost jammy berry fruit laced with some herbal accents and supported by pleasing mentholated spice. Tomboyish. On the palate it's medium bodied and graceful, with pleasing sour berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have hints of velvet about them, and though they're not powerful are pleasant. The wine is more finesse than power, taking what the vintage offered and working with it rather than transforming it, and the results are quite nice, revolving more around grace than power. I'd expect it to do interesting things with time too, though one could drink it now with Piemontese dishes (Carne all'albese, Piemonte's reply to steak tartare, comes to mind, as do meat stuffed pasta dishes and light stews or grilled meats), it will also age nicely becoming lacy and ethereal. If you like the style you will like it very much.
88-90

Cascina Luisin
Via Rabajà, 23
12050 Barbaresco (CN)
Tel: 0173 635154

Cascina Luisin Sorì Paolin Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Black lam with black reflections and lam in the rim. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up some brambly notes mingled with bitterness. Not much fruit. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggested, with fairly lively cherry fruit supported by clean bright cherry acidity and by tannins that have a slight burr to them, but are deft, and lead into a clean bitter finish. I enjoyed the palate and hope that the nose is shut down due to recent bottling; assuming this is the case the wine will recover nicely over the next couple of years, and be pleasant thereafter in a rather brambly key, a wine to drink with foods, in particular succulent roasts or stews. It's a wine you should consider only if you like this style; if you prefer smoother, more elegant wines it won't work for you.
2 stars

Cascina Luisin Barbaresco Rabajà 2005 DOCG
Deep garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with cherry fruit supported by delicate spice with hints of rosa canina and some underlying leather; quite young but developing nicely. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich slightly sour cherry fruit supported by clean brisk berry fruit acidity and tannins that are in a distinctly angry phase, laying a peppery trail over the tongue as the flow into a fairly long tart peppery finish. It's woefully young, and I wouldn't consider opening it for at least 2 years, but will clean up nicely and be rather long lived, I think. In short, a wine to set aside, because with time it will do very interesting things.
2 stars

Cascina Vallegranda Cà del Baio Az. Agr. di Grasso Giulio
Via Ferrere n° 33
12050 Treiso
Tel. 0173 638219

Cascina Vallegranda Cà del Baio Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Black almandine with reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit supported by rosa canina and jammy accents that mingle with some fresh bell pepper with underlying pencil shavings and spice. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have an underlying core of steel, but are also splintery at present, and flow into a clean fairly bright finish. Pleasant in a very young key, and would give it another year at least to get its bearings about it, and then drink it with a succulent stew, or a hearty roast, including such things as leg of lamb. It's more about finesse than power, and I found myself rather enjoying it.
2 stars

Cascina Vallegranda Cà del Baio Valgrande Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Deep black garnet ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright forest berry fruit supported by some greenish accents and by pleasant spice. Graceful. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry snd forest berry fruit supported by pleasant berry fruit (red currant) acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long clean berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. It's very young, but has an appealing grace and harmony to it, and one could drink it already with a stew or a roast, especially something more substantial such as leg of lamb. I would, however, be tempted to give it a few years, and expect that it will age well for 10 or more.
2 stars

Montaribaldi
Via Rio Sordo, 30A
12050 Barbaresco (CN)
http://www.langhe.net/montaribaldi/

Montaribaldi Sorì Monteribaldi Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with a well balanced mixture of cedar and red berry fruit supported by some red berry fruit acidity and vegetal accents. Young, but quite promising. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright berry fruit supported by moderate red berry fruit acidity and bitter accents, while the tannins are clean and cedar laced, flowing into a decidedly bitter finish. It's young, and needs at least a year to get its bearings -- two would be better -- at which point it will drink nicely with grilled meats or stews, and should age well too.
2 stars

Montaribaldi Palazzina Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately rich, with cedar mingled with red berry fruit and some medicinal accents. On the palate it's brighter than I expected, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity and by tannins hat are fairly smooth, and flow into a clean slightly bitter finish. It's very much in mid-stride, and needs time, at least a year to get its act together, but will be pleasant in a fairly graceful key that privileges finesse over power, and will do interesting things as it ages. If you like this style, it's worth seeking out.
2 stars

Cantina Del Pino
Strada Ovello, 15
12050 Barbaresco (CN)
http://www.cantinadelpino.com

Cantina del Pino Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately rich, with some berry fruit that's overshadowed to a degree by cedar, and some greenish accents as well. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with moderate berry fruit supported by bright sour berry fruit acidity and smooth tannins that have a velvety surface to the, and it all flows into a clean tart finish. I'd have liked greater richness overtones the fruit, which is less intense than it might have been.
1 star

Boffa Carlo
Via Torino, 17
12050 Barbaresco (CN)
http://www.boffacarlo.it

Boffa Carlo Casot Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Deep black almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is rather rustic, with considerable balsamic acidity mingled with animal tang -- lathered horse -- and spicy savory accents. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by clean berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are frankly immature, and to be honest bring to mind a deer's new set of antlers with velvet hanging from them -- they need time to become what they will. When it's ready it will drink very well with succulent roasts or grilled meats, and also go nicely with stews -- brasato al Barolo comes to mind -- but it needs 2-3 years. If you like the style you will like it; if you prefer the more fruit driven modern style you will probably not.
2 stars

Boffa Carlo Vitalotti Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Black almandine with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit supported by chalk and bright heathery berry fruit acidity -- there's something of a field in summer here -- and some green leather as well. Intriguing. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich savory berry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by tannins that have a clean bitter iodine-laced overlay to them, and flow into a clean bitter finish. It's not a wine that will stand out at a tasting, because the fruit is overshadowed by the bitterness in the finish, but it will drink nicely with foods, though it needs another couple of years to come together. Expect it to age well for 10 or more, in a fairly traditional key.
2 stars

Poderi Colla
San Rocco Seno d'Elvio, 82
10051 Alba (CN)
http://www.podericolla.it

Poderi Colla Roncaglie Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Almandine with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with sour cherry fruit supported by greenish accents and some spice. On the palate it's medium bodied with bright, rather acidic berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a warm splintery burr. The word that comes to mind is lean, and it's very much in a lesser key with respect to some of the other wines poured. On the other hand, it combines fruit and fruit-based acidity, and its acidity will make it long lived; I would expect it to become ethereal and rather lacy with time, and if you like the more traditional style you will enjoy it. Not now, but in years to come. In short, particular, but if you like the traditional style I think you will like it.
2 stars

Cà Romè
Via Rabajà, 36
12050 Barbaresco (CN)
http://www.carome.com

Cà Romè Maria di Brun Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Deep almandine with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit supported by a mixture overtones tart acidity and some cedar with underlying mentholated spice. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright sour cherry fruit supported by clean berry fruit acidity that has slight mineral accents, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long tannic finish with lasting bitterness. Pleasant, though very young, and needs at least a year to get its bearings, and perhaps two. It's not a wine to seek out if you like fruit driven power, but I found it growing upon me.
2 stars

Giacosa Carlo
Strada Ovello, 9
12050 Barbaresco (CN)
http://www.carlogiacosa.it

Giacosa Carlo Montefico Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and frankly rustic, with considerable balsam mingling with animal tang -- wet stable straw and some warmth as well. This said, I found myself rather enjoying it -- but then again, I do like rustic wines upon occasion. On the palate it's ample, with bright berry fruit supported by clean sour berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long berry fruit finish. Pleasant, and if you like the style it will drink very well with a hearty roast or stew now, and also has the capacity o age well for many, many years. If you like this style, it's well worth seeking out.
2 stars

Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Gresy
Via Rabajà, 43
12050 Barbaresco (CN)
http://www.marchesidigresy.com

Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Gresy Martinenga Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is well, not as clean as it might be; there's balsamic acidity mingled with spice and some berry fruit, but not much. On the palate it's brighter than the nose would suggest, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by bright slightly brambly acidity and by smooth tannins that flow into a clean tart finish. I hope the nose is in a stupid phase, because I found myself rather enjoying the palate, though it's obviously form a lesser vintage that doesn't have the depth nor intensity of a finer year. It does open with time, and I would give it at least a year, perhaps two before thinking about opening it, and perhaps hold it for considerably longer, because the acidity it needs to age is there.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Rabajà di Bruno Rocca
Cascina Rabajà, 29
12050 Barbaresco (CN)
http://www.brunorocca.it

Rabajà di Bruno Rocca Rabajà Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and disjointed, with a mixture of fruit and oak that brings (flat) cola to mind. Atlanta's finest, poured yesterday, with some greenish accents and cedar thrown in. On the palate it's ample and bitter, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by slight acidity, and by fairly sweet tannins that owe much of their character to Lord Oak, and flow into a clean cola laced finish. Too much wood for the fruit, at least for me, and I'd have been much happier with something less intense.
1 star

La Cà Nnova
Località Casa Nuova, 1
12050 Barbaresco (CN)
http://www.albeisa.org/it/aziende_scheda.asp?id=185

La Cà Nova Montestefano Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rustic, with penetrating chemical accents mingled with barnyard tang and some balsam. Not as inviting as it might have been. On the palate it's moderately intense with rather weak fruit supported by some bitterness and by tannins that have a splintery feel to them. I'd have liked greater depth and richness than I found.
1 star

Cascina Delle Rose
Località Tre Stelle
Strada Rio Sordo, 58
12050 Barbaresco (CN)
http://www.cascinadellerose.it

Cascina Delle Rose Rio Sordo Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, in a traditional key, with green leather mingled with berry fruit and warmth. Quite young, but promises nicely. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich berry fruit that gains direction from tart berry fruit acidity, while the tannins are smooth and sweet, with hints of velvet-lined steel, and flow into a clean tart finish. Quite nice in a traditional key, and though one could drink it now with a stew or roast, it will age very well, becoming more interesting with time. If you like the style it's something to set aside.
87-9

Cooperativa Produttori del Barbaresco
Via Torino, 52
12050 Barbaresco (CN)
http://www.produttoridelbarbaresco.com

Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, and jammy, with berry fruit supported by berry fruit jam and a intense vegetal accents that almost bring pepper jelly to mind. On the palate it's full, with bright slightly sour cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. It's quite young, but will drink well with succulent roasts or stews now, and also has the legs to age well for a decade or more. Enjoyable in a middle of the road key.
87-9

Terre Da Vino
Via Bergesia, 6
12060 Barolo (CN)
http://www.terredavino.it

Terre da Vino La casa in Collina Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with berry fruit supported by savory accents, slight balsam, and hints of cedar with underlying greenish accents. On the palate it's ample and rich, with bright cherry fruit supported by slightly bitter berry fruit and by clean sweet tannins that are quite young, and display a youthful burr as they lead into a warm tart finish. Pleasant in a middle-of-the-road key, and will drink well with foods, which is what a wine is all about. I found it growing upon me.
2 stars

Prunotto
Località San Cassiano, 4/G
12051 Alba (CN)
http://www.prunotto.it

Prunotto Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit rustic, with balsamic notes mingled with wet horse and hints of stable straw, and some penetrating bitterness as well. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderate fruit supported bys light acidity and by underlying bitterness. I'd have liked greater richness than I found.
1 star

Filippino Domenico - Azienda Vitivinicola di Elio Filippino
Frazione Serra Capelli, 5
12057 Neive (CN)
http://www.eliofilippino.com

Filippino Domenico Sorì Capelli Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Almandine with black reflections. The nose is airy, with cedar and some chemical accents, but not much fruit. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggests, though not too rich, with fairly lively red berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by splintery tannins that flow into a warm tannic finish. At present it won't stand out at a tasting, and probably won't do much with foods either. However, I think it may be what an Italian would call an acqua cheta -- the quiet water that undermines a bridge -- and it may do very interesting things, in a traditional lesser vintage key, with time. Never great, but graceful, and with a lot to say to those willing to listen.
2 stars

Filippino Domenico San Cristoforo Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Almandine with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is youthful, and rather green, with brambly berry fruit supported by vegetal accents and some heather from a cut field. On the palate it's ample, with fairly thin tart berry fruit supported by clean slight greenish tannins, while the acidity is also greenish. It gives the impression of deriving from a wet summer, and though it's not a wine that will excite the passions of those who like fruit driven smooth wines, it will drink well with foods, and in this context is approachable. I'm not sure how long it will age for.
1 star

Casa Vinicola Fratelli Giacosa
Via XX Settembre, 64
12057 Neive (CN)
http://www.giacosa.it

Giacosa Fratelli Basarin Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with floral accents, mostly rosa canina, mingled with menthol and some cedar, and underlying red berry fruit. On the palate it's ample, with moderate rather dry cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and tannins that lay a tongue-drying trail and flow into a dry rather bitter finish. I'd have liked greater richness of fruit than I found.
1 star

Giacosa Fratelli Basarin Vigna Gian Matè Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some, but not much red berry fruit supported by greenish spice. On the palate it's moderately intense, with slight red berry fruit supported by tart acidity and by tannins that have a warm burr to them and flow into a clean bitter finish. It's fairly direct, and doesn't have as much richness of fruit as I'd have hoped to find; the other elements carry the show but aren't as good at it.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Negro Angelo & Figli
Cascina Riveri
Frazione S. Anna, 1
12040 Monteu Roero (CN)
http://www.negroangelo.it/

Negro Angelo e Figli Basarin Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
This is a wine they had problems with; Angelo Negro told me Angelo Negro that very low vineyard yields (less than 50 q/ha) threw the grapes out of balance. Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, and rather metallic, with hot iron mingled with red berry fruit and some balsamic accents. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bitter berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and tannins that have a pronounced brambly bitterness overtones them, and flow into a decidedly bitter finish. I'd have liked greater richness and balance to the fruit than I found; it has a tired feel to it.
1 star

Poderi e Cantine Fratelli Oddero
Frazione Santa Maria, 28
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.odderofratelli.it

Poderi e Cantine Oddero Gallina Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is muted, and though swishing does bring up some acidity and hints of dried mushrooms, there isn't much fruit -- some jammy accents, and hints of greenness, but that's it. The palate reflects the nose; there's moderate rather dry fruit that gains some direction from brambly acidity, and is supported by dry tannins, but not much else. It's fairly settled now and will only settle further with time.
1 star

Battaglio
Via Salerio, 15
12040 Vezza d'Alba (CN)
http://www.battaglio.com

Battaglio Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Black almandine with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is oa bit overripe, with hints of brown sugar mingled with berry fruit and plums, and some underlying hot iron and spice. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate fruit supported by some tart mineral-berry fruit acidity, and by smooth tannins that flow into a clean tannic finish. It's direct and up front, and I found myself wishing for greater complexity, because one expects more from a Barbaresco.
1 star

Punset - Azienda Agricola Biologica di Marcarino Marina
Frazione Moretta, 5
12057 Neive (CN)
http://www.punset.com

Punset Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is deep into the rustic, with a mixture of penetrating balsamic notes and savory animal tang that used to be more common than it is now. On the palate it's similar, with animal tang laced with balsam and supported by warm balsamic acidity. If you like the style you will enjoy it, but you have to like this rustic style, and I found it to be a bit much.
1 star

Punset Campo Quadro Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with balsamic notes mingled with sea salt and warm balsamic acidity that provides direction, but not much fruit. On the palate it's fairly full, with moderately intense sour cherry plum fruit supported by mineral acidity and tannins that are splintery and fairly lean, flowing into a clean splintery tannic finish with underlying minerality. It's very young and frazzled enough that it's not showing well; it needs at least a year and more likely 2 to get its bearings; I expect it to become quite elegant with time. But it needs the time. In short, a wine to set aside.
2 stars

Francone - Antichi Poderi Dei Gallina
Via Tanaro, 45
12057 Neive (CN)
http://www.franconevini.com

Antichi Poderi dei Gallina Vigneto 'L Ciaciaret Gallina Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some balsamic notes and hints of animal tang mingled with greenish savory accents. On the palate it's clean, in a traditional key, with warm berry fruit supported by bitter notes and clean berry fruit acidity, while the tannins are smooth and have a steely feel to them tempered by pencil shaving bitterness. It's young, and clearly from a lesser vintage, but has an appealing grace to it that will lead it to work well with succulent grilled meats or roasts now, and may lead it to do interesting things in the future as well. You should only consider it if you like the style, but if you do, it will drink nicely.
1 star

Barale Fratelli di Barale Sergio
Via Roma, 6
12060 Barolo (CN)
http://www.baralefratelli.it

Barale Fratelli Serra Boella Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some spice and hints of berry fruit. Just hints, and as it opens greenish accents and hints of pencil shaving bitterness also emerge. On the palate it's full, with moderate berry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity and by smooth tannins that flow into a clean fairly tart finish. It's clearly a child of a lesser vintage -- I've said this a lot lately -- and within this context is quite successful. However, I'd have liked richer fruit than I found.
1 star

Tenuta San Mauro di Carosso Clara
Località S. Mauro, 1
14054 Castagnole Lanze (AT)
Tel: 0141 878413

Tenuta San Mauro Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Deep black almandine with black reflections and pinkish rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing does bring up some brambly berry fruit -- mostly brambles -- with slight greenish accents. On the palate it's ample, with richer than expected berry fruit supported by clean berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a dusky feel to them, and flow into a clean long berry fruit finish. I have a feeling that it may be in a stupid post-bottling phase, and it is from a lesser vintage. This said it has a pleasing slightly lean grace to it (the Italian word that comes to mind is Acerbo, which applies to tart apples too) and will drink well with succulent roasts or stews. It's something to consider only if you like the style, but if you do you'll find it has quite a bit to say.
2 stars

Tenuta San Mauro Gaia Principe Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and rustic, with fairly intense warm balsamic notes mingled with horsehair and animal tang, with underlying menthol. Far from studied elegance. On the palate it's ample, with moderate minerality more than fruit, and considerable bitterness as well, supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bitter finish. Too much bitterness, and not enough fruit. At least for me, and though I often like rustic wines this is more rustic than I like.
1 star

Rivetti Massimo
Via Rivetti, 22
12057 Neive (CN)
Tel: 0141 89568

Rivetti Massimo Froi Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Deep almandine with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is muted, and stays that way despite energetic swishing. On the palate it's ample, and rather soft, with moderately intense sour berry fruit supported by clean sour cherry acidity, and by tannins that have a warm splintery burr and flow into a clean slightly bitter tannic finish. A pity about the nose being as flat as it is, because if it had had more to say the wine would have been rather nice. It might be interesting to retaste it in a few months.
1 star

Rivetti Massimo Serraboealla Barbaresco Riserva 2003 DOCG
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly closed, though swishing brings up some green leather mingled with slight berry fruit and some underlying spice. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by mineral-laced plum acidity, and by ample smooth tannins that work from below the surface, as it were, leading into an almost flat finish that simply settles, rather like a person sinking into the ground. It's not working for me.
1 star

Sottimano
Località Cottà, 21
12057 Neive (CN)
http://www.sottimano.it/

Sottimano Cottà Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit unusual, with red berry fruit mingled with watermelon rind with underlying spice, and I think this may be a wood-fruit interaction. On the palate it's moderately full, with rather bitter fruit supported by acidity that's more mineral than fruit based, an dry tannins that are frankly tongue curling, flowing into an achingly dry finish. It needed more depth and richness of fruit.
1 star

Sottimano Currà Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with wood smoke and some ripe berry fruit, but mostly wood smoke, and also some spice. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and some bitterness that flows into a clean fairly bitter finish. It's clearly the child of a lesser vintage, but displays a certain grace and will drink nicely with grilled meats or light stews, and may do interesting things as it ages. That's the word: interesting.
2 stars

Ressia
Via Canova, 28
12057 Neive (CN)
http://www.ressia.com

Ressia Fabrizio Canova Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some barnyard tang -- wet stable straw -- mingled with balsamic notes and some acidity; the word rustic comes to mind, but as I swished it I found myself enjoying it. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggests, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by clean berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean sour cherry finish. If you like this style, it will drink quite well with succulent roasts or stews, but you do have to like the style. If you prefer smoother, softer wines it won't work as well for you.
2 stars

Cascina Saria
Località Riofreddo 9
12057 Neive - (CN)
Tel. 0173 67683

Cascina Saria Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Deep black almandine with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and medicinal, with quite a bit of very bitter iodine and some sea salt, but little else, and certainly no fruit. The palate reflects the nose, with ample bitterness that has an obvious cedar component, but not much in the way of fruit, and a cedar-laced savory finish. The vintage gave little and the wood gave much, I think.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Pietro Rinaldi
Frazione Madonna di Como, 86
12051 Alba (Cn)
http://www.pietrorinaldi.com

Rinaldi Pietro Vigna San Cristoforo Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Black almandine with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up some bitter accents. Not much else, however. On the palate it's ample, with soft, fairly direct red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and smooth tannins that flow into a clean tannic finish. It's direct, and I'd have liked more richness and depth.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Fontanabianca
Via Bordini, 15
12057 Neive (CN)
http://www.fontanabianca.it

Fontanabianca Sorì Burdin Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is shut tight, though some hints of cedar and slight medicinal bitterness emerges form around the edges, mingled with menthol. On the palate it's ample, with the body coming primarily from the tannins, while there's precious little fruit to back them up, and yes, there is something wrong with this picture -- the tannins should support the fruit, not take center stage.
1 star

La Spinetta
Via Annunziata, 17
14054 Castagnole Lanze (AT)
http://www.la-spinetta.com

La Spinetta Vursù Vigneto Starderi Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Black almandine with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with bitter mentholated notes mingled with cedar and some balsamic brambly accents, but not much fruit. The palate reflects the nose; little fruit and frankly mineral tannins that flow into a mineral tannic finish. Barbaresco should have much more depth than this, and also be much richer.
1 star

Rizzi
Località Rizzi, 15
12050 Treiso (CN)
http://www.cantinarizzi.it

Rizzi Pajoreé Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Deep ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with lively cherry fruit supported by nose-tingling acidity, and slight underlying vegetal accents. Nice balance, though very young. On the palate it's ample, with moderately rich berry fruit supported by clean cherry acidity and by tannins that though round overall have a slightly dry feel to them, and flow into a clean fresh cherry finish. It's pleasant in a middle of the road key but needs time for the various elements to finish pulling together -- I'd keep it a year and perhaps two before thinking about opening it, and would expect it to age well for at least a decade.
2 stars

Rizzi Nervo Fondetta Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and some orange in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with bright berry fruit supported by berry fruit jam and some underlying acidity, coupled with greenish accents that add depth and pleasant spice. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with rich cherry fruit supported by clean sour cherry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that do have a slight youthful burr, but that promise to develop into steely velvet with time. Elegant in a fairly accessible key, and will drink quite well with stews or roasts even now, though I think it will do interesting things with time. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Pelissero Giorgio e Luigi
Via Ferrere, 19
12050 Treiso (CN)
http://www.pelissero.com/

Pelissero Nubiola Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Deep black almandine with black reflections and paler almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, in a more rustic key than some, with balsamic notes mingled with greenish acidity and tart berry fruit with underlying sea salt and wet leaves. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by acidity that's not quite as bright as I had expected, and by ample smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long warm tannic berry fruit finish that is (again) a little less acidic than I had hoped. Because of the relatively less bright acidity the wine feels a bit settled, though this is a judgment call that owes to personal taste; it will in any case drink well with succulent grilled meats, where the tannins will do a fine job of stepping in.
1 star

Rivetto dal 1902
Località Loirano, 2
12050 Sinio (CN)
http://www.rivetto.it

Rivetto dal 1902 Ce' Vanin Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Dark almandine with orange in the rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with balsamic notes mingled with some underbrush and savory spice that gains depth from some acidity, though there isn't much fruit. On the palate it's ample, and fairly bright, in a tart way, with lively sour berry fruit supported by berry fruit minerality and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean tart finish. The acidity is such that it feels thinner than it would if there were more fruit to fill it out, If you like smoother rounder wines it won't work for you, but if you prefer more a more aggressive style it will, and will also age well for a number of years -- always in a slightly lesser key, and this is the vintage, but if you like the style it could reserve some surprises.
2 stars

Abrigo Orlando
Frazione Cappelletto, 5
12050 Treiso (CN)
http://www.orlandoabrigo.it/

Abrigo Orlando Rocche Meruzzano Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Deep black garnet ruby with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by greenish accents and green leather mingled with some rosa canina, and supported by fairly bright slightly balsamic acidity and also some cedar. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's ample and fairly smooth, with moderate red berry fruit -- there's less than I expected -- supported by hints of brown sugar sweetness and moderate acidity, while the tannins are ample and splintery, something that will fold in with time. The relative lack of fruit and acidity came as a surprise and is more of a problem, because the wine feels flatter than I might have liked.
1 star

Abrigo Orlando Vigneto Montersino Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with dusky greenish spice supporting some leather and underlying cedar, with a fair amount of alcohol as well. Pleasant, in a young slightly traditional key. On the palate it's ample, and much smoother than I would have expected, languid even, with moderately intense slightly brandied cherry fruit that gains direction from moderate berry fruit acidity, and is supported by very smooth, well polished tannins that flow into a clean slightly bitter cherry plum finish. It's approachable, and softer than many Barbareschi, and also -- on the palate -- much more modern in style than on the nose. I would have liked greater fullness to the fruit, and perhaps a little more acidity, but found it growing upon me in any case. It's not a wine I would age for too long, but think it will work well with light stews and similar now.
1 star

Ada Nada
Via Ausario, 12
12050 Treiso (CN)
http://www.adanada.it

Ada Nada Valeirano Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Deep black almandine with black reflections and a fair amount of orange in the rim. The bouquet is intense and a bit rustic, with savory balsamic acidity supported by wood smoke and wet leaf pungency mingled with some animal tang. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by clean cherry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long clean tannic finish with mineral acidic underpinning. It's more languid on the palate than I expected, and if you like rich new world style fruit driven wines it won't work for you. However, I found myself enjoying what it had to say, in its rather traditional key, and think it could do nice things with time as well.
2 stars

Ada Nada Cichin Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with spice mingled with hints of brown sugar, stronger greenish accents, and underlying rosa canina and red berry fruit. Nice balance. On the palate it's bright, with rich red berry fruit supported by clean berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long, clean berry fruit finish supported by red currant acidity. Quite nice and eminently approachable in a sunny youthful key; it will work very well now with succulent roasts or stews, and also has the capacity to age well for many years. Worth seeking out.
88-90

Cantina Vignaioli Elvio Pertinace
Località Pertinace, 2
12050 Treiso (CN)
http://www.pertinace.it

Pertinace SCA Vigneto Marcarini Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Dusky Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright berry fruit supported by lively cherry acidity and by peppery spice mingled with underlying vegetal accents. Pleasant in a traditional key. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by warm berry fruit acidity and clean slightly splintery tannins that flow into a warm, fairly savory finish. Pleasant, in a traditional key and will drink quite well with hearty foods now, though I would give it a year or two because it is very young and needs to grow.
2 stars

Pertinace SCA Vigneto Nervo Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly bright in a traditional way, with warm red berry fruit supported by greenish savory accents and some balsamic spice and green leather. Welcoming. On the palate it's full, with bright berry fruit supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fruit laced finish. Quite approachable, and will drink very well with succulent red meats or stews, including flavorful game such as boar or venison. Expect it to age nicely too, for at least a decade.
2 stars

Vigin
Via Meruzzano, 33/A
12050 Treiso (CN)
Tel: 328 4188886

Vigin Noemy Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and fairly oaky, with an initial rush of cedar that carries on, overshadowing some peppery spice and hints, but only hints, of berry fruit. On the palate it's ample, with moderate berry fruit that gains direction from some tart acidity, but is again largely overshadowed by tannins that have a cedary burr and flow into a fairly quick cedar-laced finish. It has eaten a lot of oak and has yet to digest it. I'm not sure it will.
1 star

La Ganghija
Viale Rimembranza, 11
12050 Treiso (CN)
http://www.laganghija.com/

La Ganghija Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, in a decidedly traditional key, with balsamic notes and greenish accents mingling with bright acidity and some barnyard tang. On the palate it's ample, with moderate fairly bright berry fruit supported by clean sour berry fruit acidity and smooth tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a clean slightly mineral finish with greenish balsamic accents. The fruit isn't as rich nor as full as I might have liked, and I consequently found it a bit, not really lean, but settled. The vintage at work.
1 star

La Contea
Piazza Cocito, 8
12052 Neive (CN)
Italy
http://www.la-contea.it/

La Contea Ripa Sorita Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, in an overripe sort of way, with an unusual mixture of prunes and balsamic overtones that also has hints of cola and wood smoke to it. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate fruit supported more by tannins and minerality than acidity, with the tannins being smooth and glancing, and it all flows into a clean bitter finish with smoky accents. It feels as if the grapes weren't perfectly ripe when they reached the cellar, and as a result the fruit wasn't as intense nor as rich as it could have been.
1 star

Giordano Ferdinando
Via Cane Guido, 47 bis
12050 Alba (CN)
http://www.giordanovini.it

Giordano Vini Raggiante Barbaresco 2005 DOCG
Black almandine with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with sweetish red berry fruit supported by greenish accents and fairly bright berry fruit acidity; nice balance in a youthful sort of way. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit directed by lively cherry and forest berry fruit acidity, while the support is clean sweet tannins that flow into a bright, fairly long, berry fruit finish. Graceful in a lithe sort of way, and will drink very well with foods, especially fattier roasts (leg of lamb comes to mind) or rich stews, including those made with game. It's quite drinkable, but more direct than I might expect a Barbaresco to be, at least at this stage. I do think it will also age well, however.
2 stars

We closed with several 2003 Barbaresco Riservas:

Rivetti Massimo
Via Rivetti, 22
12057 Neive (CN)
Tel: 0141 89568

Rivetti Massimo Serraboealla Barbaresco Riserva 2003 DOCG
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly closed, though swishing brings up some green leather mingled with slight berry fruit and some underlying spice. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by mineral-laced plum acidity, and by ample smooth tannins that work from below the surface, as it were, leading into an almost flat finish that simply settles, rather like a person sinking into the ground. It's not working for me.
1 star

Rivetti Dante
Località Bricco di Neive, 12
12057 Neive (CN)
http://www.danterivetti.com

Rivetti Dante Bricco Barbaresco Riserva 2003 DOCG
Deep black almandine with almandine that has some orange to it in the rim. The bouquet is rich, overripe even, with warm jammy fruit laced with cedar and some greenish accents, while there's also quite a bit of alcohol supporting things. On the palate it's ample and soft, with brighter than expected sour berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly warm finish; though the fruit is bright, and not overripe, it's not that full -- the acidity cuts it down to size -- and as a consequence, if you like rounder, smoother fruit driven wines I don't think it will work as well for you. If you instead prefer a more aggressive style, you may find yourself enjoying it considerably, but you do have to like the style.
2 stars

Rivetti Dante Micca Barbaresco Riserva 2003 DOCG
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim going towards orange. The bouquet is is fairly rich, with warm berry fruit supported by underbrush and alcohol, with some cedar as well. On the palate it's fairly bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by brisk citric cherry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean tart finish. It's bright, with considerable life, and will drink well with succulent roasts or stews. In terms of style it's traditional, with acidity that keeps it up and going, and you do have to like wines that revolve around acidity to enjoy it -- it's a far cry from a fruit driven new world wine. This said, because of its acidity it will also be long lived, and do interesting things with time, becoming lacy and ethereal. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

La Contea
Piazza Cocito, 8
12052 Neive (CN)
Italy
http://www.la-contea.it/

La Contea Ripa Sorita Barbaresco Riserva 2003 DOCG
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish spice mingled with rosa canina and quite a bit of warmth, and underlying nose-tingling acidity. On the palate it's ample, and fairly soft, with bright acidity more than fruit supported by clean sweet tannins that are quite smooth; I would have liked more richness to the fruit, which has a citric cast to it, than I found; the end result is, well, frankly aggressive, and unless you like this style you won't like the wine. On the other hand, if you do, it will drink well with fattier roasts or stews, and also has the capacity to age well for at least a decade and probably much longer.
2 stars

Mainerdo
Via Moretta, 20
12057 Neive (CN)
http://www.mainerdo.com

Mainerdo F.lli Barbaresco Riserva 2003 DOCG
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar-laced spice taking the fore, supported by a fair amount of alcohol and some greenish accents that provide depth. But not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by moderate plum acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long warm finish. It's (to be honest) more what I expected of a 2003 Riserva than some of the others, with the softness and relatively low acidity due to the heat of the vintage, and though it does have a certain elegance to it, I find it faltering some; because of its softness it will drink better with drier meats.
1 star

Pelissero Pasquale Az. Agr.
Via Cascina Crosa n° 2
12057 Neive
Tel. 0173 67376

Pellissero Pasquale Eredi Cascina Crosa Barbaresco Riserva 2003 DOCG
Almandine with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is smoky, with hardwood ash mingled with some balsamic notes and nose-tingling spice. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense berry fruit that's supported by fairly bright acidity that has some bitter accents, and by tannins that have a warm spicy burr to them and flow into a clean bitter finish. It's disjointed, with the fruit, which isn't as rich as it would be in a better year, going in one direction while the tannins pull in another. Very much a child of the vintage.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Prinsi di Lequio Franco
Via Gaia 5
12052 Neive (Cuneo)
http://www.prinsi.it/

Prinsi Fausone Barbaresco Riserva 2003 DOCG
Deep black almandine with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of cedar mingled with wood smoke and spice. On the palate it's ample, with richer berry fruit than I expected from the nose, tart plum with some sweetish bitter caramel accents that are from wood, supported by plum acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright finish. It's oddly soft for a Nebbiolo, and this is the vintage at work, but also measures a fair amount of grace, rather (casting PC aside) like a pat person who's also a nimble dancer. Given its brightness it will drink well with succulent roasts or stews, though I might not go with fattier cuts. Roast beef cut thick, on the other hand, would be nice.
2 stars