Chianti Classico once again held its presentation in Florence's Stazione Leopolda, the old train station between Porta al Prato and the Parco delle Cascine (just outside the city walls), whose construction was begun in the 1841, and which is named after Grand Duke Leopoldo -- it was discarded (as a train station) in 1860, and was thereafter put to many uses, ranging from site of the Espozizione Nazionale (National Fair) opened by King Vittorio Emanuele in 1861 to munitions plant in WWI. The bombing it suffered in WWII destroyed the roof; a makeshift roof held up by iron pipes was applied, and the complex used as a railway warehouse until 1993, when it was transformed into an extraordinarily beautiful exposition area, which now hosts all sorts of things, from fashion shows to wine tastings. As Carlo Macchi points out, the lighting's beautiful, the temperature is just right, there's all the space one could want, and it's also quiet. In short perfect, and I began with the Riserve, starting with the one Chianti Classico Riserva 2001 being presented.
The 2004 Chianti Classico Riservas, of which there were about 20, were instead for the most part quite good, showing depth, vigor, and the onset of maturity; it is a fine vintage and should you come across bottles of either Chianti Classico Riserva or Chianti Classico D'Annata you should definitely consider them.
I continued with the 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva, which was, I thought, weaker -- 2005 was a cooler, wetter vintage. As a result the grapes didn't ripen as well; the wines have less richness of fruit, and wood steps in to carry more than I might have hoped. There are (as always) exceptions to this dreary picture, but on the whole, when buying Chianti Classico 2005, be it Riserva or Vino D'Annata (some producers were presenting it too), one has to choose with considerable care.
There were quite a few 2006 Chianti Classico Riservas, and they provided a very welcome change after the 2005s, with much richer fruit and much more grace and elegance. It was a better vintage, and the greater ripeness of the grapes translated into nimble, wines with a nice balance between fruit and structure, for both the 2006 Riserva and the 2006 Chianti D'Annata. As is always the case, one must choose with care, taking into account one's personal preferences and the style of the winery, but the 2006 vintage is a much, much surer bet than the 2005.
The 2007? There were some 2007 Chianti Classico Riserva barrel samples, but I decided to wait on them, and taste through some of the 2007 Vini D'Annata. I found the vintage more high-strung than the 2006; though the fruit was nice, the tannins were on average brasher and more aggressive than those of the 2006 wines were last year (when they were the same age as the 2007 wines are now). This, coupled with lively acidities many of the wines display, means that they will likely be long-lived, but at present are more aggressive. As a result, at least for now they're not as much wines to drink by the glass far from the table as wines to be enjoyed with foods.
As is always the case at the Chianti Classico Anteprima, there were far too many wines for me to hope to taste them all in the time allotted. I selected some because I'm familiar with them, others because fellow tasters said good things about them, and still others because their names caught my eye. The wines are presented in the order that I tasted the Riservas.
The Wines, Tasted February 17 and 18 2009
Il Poggiolino
Il Poggiolino Chianti Classico Riserva 2001
Elegant ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and vinous, with sour berry fruit supported by leaf tobacco and bitter graphite shavings that confer a dusky feel to the wine and bring to mind dappled shade. On the palate it's medium bodied and rather dry, with moderate sour berry fruit supported by tannins that are splintery and tongue drying, and flow into a clean distinctly tannic finish. I had expected a little more richness given the nose; it's not a wine that I would sip on its own, though it will work (sooner than later) with a hearty stew or roast. I wouldn't keep it much longer, because it has reached its peak, I think.
1 star
Il Poggiolino Chianti Classico Riserva 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is frankly oaky, with quite a bit of cedar laced with vanilla and some spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's brighter than I had expected, with moderately intense rather sour cherry fruit that gains direction from sour berry fruit acidity, and is supported by tannins that have a greenish cedar-laced underlay, and flow into a clean savory finish. Given the palate I would allow the nose a year to get its bearings, in the hope that fruit will emerge from behind the oaky screen now present, and then drink it with a stew or succulent roast. The score reflects the present, though I think it could do interesting things in the future.
1 star
Il Poggiolino Chianti Classico 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit supported by mentholated accents and clean spice; there's a rather brooding quality to it that I rather enjoyed. On the palate it's fairly rich, with lively cherry fruit supported by clean rather tart strawberry raspberry acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly tannic finish with tart overtones. Pleasant, and will drink quite well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and will also go quickly. Worth seeking out.
2 stars
Castello di Monterinaldi
Castello di Monterinaldi Chianti Classico Riserva 2003
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with delicate berry fruit supported by brambles and the heather of a Tuscan field in summer, with some underlying alcohol. On the palate it's ample, with moderate fruit supported by tannins that have a slightly sour, distinctly brambly nature and flow into a clean rather dry tannic finish. In a searingly hot vintage grapes can either overripen or not ripen, and I have a feeling that the latter happened here -- the grapes didn't reach the degree of ripeness they normally would have. Because of its tongue-drying nature it will work well with succulent grilled meats or hearty stews.
1 star
Tenuta di Riseccoli
Tenuta di Riseccoli Chianti Classico Riserva 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, with cherry fruit supported by slightly jammy berry fruit acidity and by some greenish bramble; the overall impression is airy. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean rather sour tannic finish. Pleasant in a traditional key, and will drink nicely with stews or roasts. Worth seeking out if you like the style.
2 stars
San Felice
San Felice Poggio Rosso Chianti Classico Riserva 2004
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a decidedly traditional key, with balsamic notes and polished leather mingled with savory sea salt; there's not much fruit, but it's pleasant and shows nice control. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by moderate almost lemony acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, and flow into a clean tannic finish with sour underpinning. Pleasant in a fairly traditional key, and will drink well with stews or roasts; because of the dryness of the tannins I wouldn't drink it far from the table, at least not for a few years.
2 stars
San Felice Il Grigio Chianti Classico Riserva 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, in a slightly rustic key, with balsamic notes and animal accents - stable straw to be precise -- overlying brash acidity and hints of dried mushrooms. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry fruit supported by lively cherry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh cherry finish that gains direction from tart berry fruit acidity, and flow into a clean fairly tart finish. Pleasant, and will drink very well with succulent red meats or stews; it also has the capacity to age nicely for a number of years, and if I had the fortune to have a case I'd set some aside.
88-90
San Felice Chianti Classico 2006
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with pleasant floral accents mingled with berry fruit that gains depth from hints of mint and berry fruit jam. Pleasant and inviting. On the palate it's light-medium bodied, with fairly bright berry fruit supported by warm tart citric acidity that gains in intensity as the wine flows towards the finish, while the tannins are still just a bit young, and slightly blocky, though they will smooth with time. Pleasant, in a fairly direct key, and will drink well with hearty pasta dishes, beans (fagioli all'uccelleto with sausages come to mind), and simple grilled meats or light stews. Expect the bottle to go quickly, and if you like traditional Chianti you will enjoy it.
2 stars
Poggio Reale - Spalletti
Poggio Reale Spalletti Chianti Classico Riserva 2004
Deep pigeon blood ruby with slight hints of orange in the nail. The bouquet is fairly rich, with delicate tart berry fruit supported by a fair amount of cedar and some dusky underbrush, with slight hints of damp leather. On the palate it's ample, with moderate fruit supported by tart acidity and by tannins that have a decidedly bitter cedar overlay and carry into a cedar-laced finish. The oak isn't completely carrying the show, but it's more evident than I might have liked at this stage, and I would give the wine a year or two to absorb it. Drink it with succulent roasts or stews.
1 star
Ormanni
Ormanni Borro del Diavolo Chianti Classico Riserva 2004
Pale slightly almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is bright, with deft slightly vegetal berry fruit supported by airy spice and alcoholic warmth; there's nice depth and it's harmonious. On the palate it's rich, with lively red berry fruit supported by tannins that have a clean slightly splintery Sangiovese burr that flows into a deft cherry finish with tannic underpinning. Pleasant in a bracing traditional key, and still quite young; though one could drink it now with a steak or roasts and enjoy it much, it will reward those blessed with the patience to give it another 3-5 years. Worth seeking out if you are of traditional bent, and even if you prefer smoother softer more fruit driven wines you will enjoy it.
88-90
Ormanni Chianti Classico 2005
Delicate almandine ruby with some orange towards the rim. The bouquet is delicate, with pleasing raspberry fruit supported by deft acidity and hints of saddle leather. Elegant in a deft traditional key. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich cherry raspberry fruit supported by clean raspberry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long tart berry fruit finish. Elegant, and moves with the grace of a dancer; it will drink well with succulent grilled meats or light stews, and will also age nicely for 3-5 years. Worth seeking out if you like the style.
2 stars
Il Molino di Grace
Il Molino di Grace Il Margone Chianti Classico Riserva 2004
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, in a decidedly greenish key, with cedar and vegetal accents overshadowing underbrush; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, and rather tart, with moderately intense sour berry fruit supported by clean rather bitter cedar laced tannins, which flow into a cedar-laced finish. It has a pleasing rather slender gracefulness to it, and though I wouldn't suggest it if you like smoother, softer fruit driven wines, if you like a degree of tartness it will drink quite well with succulent grilled meats or light stews, and also has the legs to age nicely for 5-8 years, becoming lacy with time. Very different from last year's wine, and this simply underscores the importance of the vintage in Chianti Classico.
88-90
Il Molino di Grace Chianti Classico Riserva 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, with slightly greenish berry fruit supported by spice and some underlying cedar; it's nicely balanced and harmonious. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright slightly sour cherry fruit supported by deft sour berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a slightly greenish sour berry fruit finish. Graceful, and light on its toes, like a danced; it will drink nicely with succulent grilled meats -- a porterhouse steak would be nice -- and also with hearty stews, while it also has the legs to age nicely for a number of years. Worth seeking out.
88-90
Il Molino di Grace Chianti Classico 2006
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is clean and fresh, with lively cherry raspberry fruit supported by clean deft berry fruit acidity and by pleasant slightly mentholated spice. Pleasant in an upfront key. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by tannins that are still a bit blocky, and need another year to smooth. It's quite direct, and will drink well with foods, in particular simple grilled meats or light stews.
1 star
Fattoria di Vegi
Fattoria di Vegi - Silvio Chiostri Chianti Classico Riserva 2004
Cherry ruby with some orange in the rim. The bouquet is bright, with greenish sour berry fruit supported by brambly acidity and some spice. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich berry fruit that's supported by smooth sweet tannins, while there's not quite as much acidity as I might have expected, and it flows into a clean rather jammy berry fruit finish with a dry tannic underpinning. The wood is carrying the show a little more than I'd have liked -- it has polished out the acidity -- and needs another year to fold in, at which point the wine will work well with red meats, perhaps more medium rare than rare, and will be a good bet if you like a softer, less aggressive style.
2 stars
Castello di Tornano
Castello di Tornano Chianti Classico Riserva 2004
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, with sour berry fruit laced with bell pepper jam and airy spice; it's quite pleasant to sniff and invites repeated swishing. On the palate it's bright, in a rather scrappy key, with zesty sour cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have a decidedly dusky cedar-laced bitterness, and flow into a clean bitter finish that leaves a dusty trail over the tongue. If you like this rather aggressive, scrappy style, you will enjoy it, and it will drink quite well with succulent meats off the grill. If you instead prefer smoother, softer wines it won't work for you.
2 stars
Castello di Tornano Chianti Classico 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with deft red berry fruit supported by cedar and tangy acidity; the overall impression is harmonious. On the palate it's full and bright, with rich slightly sour berry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean, rather bitter tannic finish that's fairly long. It will drink nicely with succulent roasts or hearty stews, and also has the wherewithal to age nicely for 8-10 years. Powerful for a Chianti Classico base.
2 stars
Castello di Monsanto
Castello di Monsanto Il Poggio Chianti Classico Riserva 2004
Lively black cherry ruby with hints of orange in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with tart red berry fruit supported by some cedar and pleasant spice; the overall impression is graceful in a zesty tomboyish key. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rich cherry and red berry fruit that gains direction from brisk, but not invasive, acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly sour cherry finish with tannic underpinning. Quite pleasant; it's one of those wines one hates to pour out at a tasting, and will drink very well with succulent grilled meats or roasts.
90-91
Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with vegetal accents mingling with bright berry fruit and pleasing spice. Interesting to sniff, and welcoming too, in a rather cheeky tomboyish key. On the palate it's fairly rich, with lively cherry fruit supported by tart berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long clean berry fruit finish with some underlying vegetal accents that are likely youth. Pleasant, and I found myself enjoying it, though I would give it at least a year and perhaps two to get its legs about it before drink it with succulent roasts or hearty stew.
2 stars
Castello di Monastero
Castello di Monastero Chianti Classico Riserva 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish red berry fruit supported by a fair amount of cedar and slightly peppery spice. On the palate it's dry, with moderately intense rather bitter berry fruit directed by cedary bitterness more than acidity, and it flows into a decidedly bitter cedar-laced finish. There's more oak than I would have liked, and it's overshadowing the fruit. While it will fold in with time, I'm not sure that it the problem will ever completely resolve.
1 star
Castello di Bossi
Castello di Bossi Berardo Chianti Classico Riserva 2004
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections; it looks vibrant. The bouquet is powerful, with a great rush of slightly minty cedar that brings a pine chest to mind, with some underlying bitterness but not much fruit. The wood predominates completely. On the palate the situation is better; there is some fruit that manages to emerge from under the tarp oak has cast over it, and there is even a hint of direction from acidity, but then both are swallowed by bitter cedar accents that flow into a lasting bitter cedar finish. Extremely oaky, and though there is an underpinning of fruit that keeps it from being absolutely one-track, you have to like heavily oaked wines to find it interesting. If you do you will like it very much, and even consider it excellent, but if you don't you will not. In short, a wine that takes no quarter.
2 stars
Castello delle Stinche
Castello delle Stinche Vigna Castello di Lamole Chianti Classico Riserva 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry impenetrable. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by some cedar and deft acidity with some cedary spice as well. On the palate it's ample, and fairly soft, though there is delicate citrus acidity to provide direction, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by clean cedar laced tannins that flow into a warm fairly tart finish. It's a bit oaky at present, though said oak will likely fold in with time, at which point the acidity, which is fairly distinct, will fully assume the role of providing direction. In short, give it a couple of years, and then enjoy it with a steak.
2 stars
Casaloste
Casaloste Don Vincenzo Chianti Classico Riserva 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is frankly oaky, with quite a bit of bitter cedar and some underlying jammy berry fruit with hints of cut flowers as well. It opens nicely in a distinctly international key. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by dusky tannins that have a slightly bitter cedary underlay, and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. There's less acidity than I have found in Casaloste in the past, and to be honest I miss the direction the acidity provided; while cedar bitterness works it's not quite the same thing. Not as exciting. The wine will drink well with succulent red meats, and will age nicely for 3-5 years, and perhaps more.
2 stars
Casaloste Chianti Classico Riserva 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is cedar-laced, with some red berry fruit but not as much as I might have hoped, and some underbrush with faintest hints of stable straw. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggested, with moderately rich sour cherry fruit that gains direction from sour berry fruit acidity, and is supported by very dry cedar laced tannins that flow into a fairly dry tannic finish. The wine is doing a valiant job of trying to digest a great load of oak, and I think it will succeed; there is sufficient acidity to work well with succulent meats, and if you like tannins that are well polished by wood you will enjoy it. If you prefer less oak you probably should pass on it.
2 stars
A fellow taster says oak is for caskets, not for casks.
Villa Calcinaia
Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
Cherry ruby with hints of almandine, and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a slightly rustic key, with balsamic accents and some stable straw mingled with warmth and vinous notes. Pleasant, and I found myself enjoying it. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by some bitter acidity, and by cedar laced tannins that flow into a clean cedar-laced finish. It has a tired feel to it -- the fruit is allowing the cedary part of the tannins to carry the show -- and though I liked the nose I found the palate wanting. A pity.
1 star
Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and a bit overripe, with cherry prune fruit supported by cedar and some balsamic accents with underlying vegetal notes. On the palate it's ample, with moderately rich rather generic berry fruit supported by moderately intense mineral acidity, and by tannins that are smooth and cedar laced, and flow into a rather bitter finish. It's more lax than I might have liked, and lacking in richness of fruit.
1 star
Terreno
Terreno Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rum. The bouquet is fairly intense, with dusky plum-laced fruit mingled with underbrush and greenish mentholated spice. Nice balance, and harmonious in a fairly austere key. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry fruit that gains direction from deft berry fruit acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Pleasant in a middle of the road key, and will drink quite nicely with foods, in particular grilled red meats or hearty roasts. It also will age nicely for another 3-5 years at least.
2 stars
Terreno Chianti Classico Riserva 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up delicate berry fruit laced with spice, hints of cocoa, and some jammy mentholated accents that add depth. On the palate it's full, with bright cherry fruit supported by lively citric acidity and by tannins that will be velvety in a year, but are still a bit blocky now, and flow into a clean fairly bitter finish. It needs a year, and when it's ready will drink nicely with succulent red meats, in particular richer fare along the lines of a well-marbled steak.
2 stars
Terreno Chianti Classico 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted -- youth in action -- though swishing brings up some spice with moderately intense red berry fruit. Nice balance, but clearly still developing. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by clean bright mineral acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long decidedly tart finish. It will drink nicely with succulent red meats or light stews, but needs a year to get its bearings and figure out where it's going.
2 stars
Tenuta di Lilliano
Tenuta di Lilliano Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is shut tight, though swishing brings up some cedar, with greenish mentholated accents as well. Not quite nobody home, but in that direction. On the palate it's bright, with an abundance of sour berry fruit supported by deft sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, though they have a greenish cast, and flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish. The palate is much more along than the nose, and frankly traditional in style; I would give the wine a year overtones get its bearings, and then drink it with succulent grilled meats, or even a platter of fried meats and vegetables, or hold it for a few more years, by which time it will likely become lacy. If you like the traditional style you will enjoy it, but give it time.
2 stars
Tenuta di Lilliano Chianti Classico 2007
Lively ruby with black reflections and ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with clean vegetal accents mingled with spice and wet leaves, and also with clean spice. Nice balance, and though there's not much fruit it is pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly bright cherry fruit that gains direction from tart acidity and dusky bitterness, and is supported by clean rather green tannins that flow into a long bitter slightly greenish finish. It's fairly traditional, and pleasant, though I would have liked a little more richness overtones the fruit than I found. It will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews.
1 star
Tenimanti Angelini - San Leolino
Tenimenti Angelini San Leonino Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is vinous, with an initial rush of cut flowers that opens to reveal some tart acidity and delicate berry fruit. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich red berry fruit that gains direction from sour berry fruit acidity and is supported by tannins that are fairly smooth and cedar laced. It has a slightly lax feel to it, and I found myself wishing for greater richness of fruit; the tannins come to the fore and do a good job of carrying the show, but they're taking on a task that's really not theirs.
1 star
San Fabiano Calcinaia
San Fabiano Clacinaia - Cellole Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and cedar laced, with clean underlying bitterness, but not much fruit. It gives an impression of being in mid stride. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are smooth and fairly well polished, and flow into a tart finish. It's very young, and needs another year at least to get its bearings, at which point it will be pleasant in a middle-of-the-road key, and work quite well with succulent grilled meats or hearty roasts, for example leg of lamb.
2 stars
San Fabiano Calcinaia Chianti Classico 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, and frankly oaky, with cedar and shellac mingled with bitter accents and dusky coolness, as it opens some fruit does emerge. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderate fruit overshadowed by sweetish vanilla and oaky bitterness, which flow into a dry tannic finish. It needs time, at least a year, to digest the (large volume of) oak that it has been fed, and given the amount, to be honest I'm not sure if there's enough richness to the fruit to balance things out.
1 star
Casa Sola
Casa Sola Chianti Classico Riserva 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and vinous, with red berry fruit supported by moderate cedar and some peppery spice. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense fruit supported by warm sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a warm splintery burr and flow into a clean fairly dry splintery tannic finish. It's in mid stride, and the tannins need another year to smooth, at which point it will drink nicely with red meats.
1 star
Ruffino
Ruffino Riserva Ducale Oro Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit supported by alcoholic warmth, nose tingling spice, and some underbrush. Nice balance in a fairly austere key. On the palate it's fairly rich, with smooth rather jammy cherry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a greenish youthful burr, and flow into a clean fairly bright berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. It's pleasant, in a rather graceful in a middle of the road key, and will drink nicely now with succulent grilled meats or hearty stews, and is ready to drink, though I think it will reward those who have the patience to give it 3-5 years.
2 stars
Ruffino Santedame Chianti Classico Riserva 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, in a decidedly international key with berry fruit supported by quite a bit of cedar that doesn't completely overshadow, but does make its presence felt. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich, soft cherry fruit supported by moderately intense mineral berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh finish. It's quite approachable in an international key, and if you like this smoother, softer style will drink very well with succulent, not too fatty red meats. Worth seeking out if you like the style.
2 stars
Ruffino Santedame Chianti Classico 2007
Lively pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright and fresh, with lively tart cherry and strawberry fruit supported by some hints of violets, and also sweetish berry fruit jam. Graceful in a fresh youth-in-a-glass key. On the palate it's equally fresh, with lively cherry plum fruit supported by deft acidity and considerable dusty bitterness that flow into a clean fairly bitter finish. Pleasant in a young lively (zesty, even) key, and will be perfect at a cookout or with quickly cooked entrees indoors. Worth seeking out for when you want a lark of a wine, and expect it to go quickly.
2 stars
Rocca di Castagnoli Tenuta di Capraia
Rocca di Castagnoli Tenuta di Capaia Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by vegetal accents and a fair amount of pungent cedar, while there are also underlying bitter graphite shaving accents. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly bright direct cherry fruit supported by moderately intense cherry mineral acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly tart berry fruit finish. It's direct and up front in a cheeky sort of way, and will drink nicely now with succulent grilled meats or hearty stews, while it will also age nicely for a number of years, and will, I think, reward those who have patience.
2 stars
Rocca di Castagnoli Tenuta di Capraia Chianti Classico 2006
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is frankly oaky, in a young closed key; swishing brings up some cedar and hints of shellac and hardwood ash but little fruit. On the palate it's richer than the nose would suggest, with bright slightly sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have an angry splintery burr and flow into a fairly long finish. It needs a year, perhaps two, to get its bearings, at which point it will be pleasant in a middle of the road key, and work well with grilled red meats, light stews, and roasts.
2 stars
Rocca di Castagnoli Poggio a'Frati
Rocca di Castagnoli Poggio a'Frati Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit that gains definition from clean slightly greenish accents and brambly acidity. On the palate it's fairly light, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are warm and rather splintery, and flow into a clean splintery tannic finish. It's graceful, in a very traditional, and rather tart key, and if you like this style you will enjoy it, with foods -- it will be nice with a succulent porterhouse steak, and will also work well with fried meats and vegetables. If you like smoother, softer wines, it won't work as well for you.
2 stars
Rocca delle Macie
Rocca delle Macie Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with fairly intense smoky cedar and underlying peppery spice; swishing brings up some berry fruit too, but other things are overshadowing it now. On the palate it's ample, with moderately rich fruit that is again overshadowed by warm cedary bitterness that carries into a decidedly bitter, almost tongue-turning finish. I'd have liked more fruit; though what is present is not completely delinquent it's not up to the task of guiding the wine.
1 star
Renzo Marinai
Renzo Marinai Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is pungent, with very ripe cut flowers mingled with something that brings to mind dusky shadow and graphite shavings, cola sweetness, and a fair amount of alcohol. It's brooding. On the palate it's ample, with moderate berry fruit whose sweet accents bring cola to mind, supported by bitter smooth tannins that have a fair amount of oak too, and flow into a bitter finish. It's settled, in an overripe key, and though the tannins will with time fold into the wine, the fruit is soft enough and ripe enough that I fear it will fade by the time they do.
1 star
Querciavalle
Querciavalle Millennium Losi Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is a bit overripe, with jammy cherry plum fruit supported by bitterness and some spice; there's not much in the way of acidity. On the palate it's ample and rather settled, with moderately intense generic berry fruit supported by tannins that have a splintery burr and warm savory hazelnut overtones, and flow into a rather bitter finish. It's more settled than a Riserva should be; I would have liked more depth to the wine, and greater richness overtones the fruit.
1 star
Piccini
Piccini Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is slightly overripe, with fairly tart jammy red berry fruit supported by some vegetal accents and savory spice. On the palate it's fairly direct, with moderately intense generic berry fruit supported by bitter accents and some acidity, while the tannins are rather blocky. It's quite direct, and fairly simple, and though the wine is perfectly drinkable I would have expected greater depth from a Riserva than it displays. While it is true one could do (much) worse, one can also do much better.
1 star
Piccini Salco Chianti Classico 2007
Black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit supported by balsamic accents and mentholated spice. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that aren't quite as incisive as I might have liked. It's fairly direct, and also a bit lax. This said, it will drink well with simple foods, red sauced pasta dishes and such, and is not demanding. There is a place for this kind of wines.
1 star
Monteraponi
Monteraponi Il Campitello Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
Lively almandine ruby with some hints of orange in the rim. The bouquet is rich, with lively sour berry fruit supported by deft slightly brambly acidity and by clean spice from the grapes. Invigorating. On the palate it's fresh, with bright slightly sour cherry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are still quite young, displaying a slightly greenish youthful burr, and flow into a clean fresh sour berry fruit finish. Quite nice, in a zesty traditional key, and if you like the style it will work very well with succulent grilled meats or hearts stews and roasts in the short term, and also age nicely over the next 5-8 years at least. Worth seeking out even if you prefer the smoother, softer international style.
90-91
Melini
Melini Vigneti La Selvanella Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, in a frankly oaky key at the outset, though swishing brings up some red berry fruit with sweetish jammy accents and brambly undertones. On the palate it's medium bodied, with sour berry fruit that's brighter than I expected, supported by deft acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, though they do display a splintery, brambly burr that flows into a clean rather dry tannic finish. It's fairly direct, but will drink very well with foods, in particular succulent grilled meats, roasts, and also with mixed fried meats and vegetables. Scrappy, and if you like the style it will go quickly now, or (if you set it aside) age nicely for 5-8 years.
2 stars
Melini Granaio Chianti Classico 2007
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh and bright, with berry fruit supported by fairly intense vegetal accents and pleasing spice. Not quite as ripe as some, but pleasant. On the palate it's ample, and fairly soft, with rich cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Direct, and up front, and will drink well with foods; it's one of those wines that supports nicely without demanding center stage, and is also quite versatile.
2 stars
Macchiavelli
Macchiavelli Vigna di Fontalle Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry impenetrable. The bouquet is oaky, with an interaction between oak and very ripe fruit that brings cola to mind, supported by cedar-laced bitterness. On the palate it's fairly direct, with ample moderately tart red berry fruit supported by some berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean rather bitter finish. It's direct, and a bit simpler than I might have wanted from a Riserva, but will drink well with grilled meats or light stews.
1 star
Lamole di Lamole
Lamole di Lamole Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
Deep ruby with some orange in the rim. The bouquet is vinous, with bright raspberry cherry fruit supported by clean spice and alcoholic warmth. Inviting, in a young, vigorous key. On the palate it's bright, with lively red berry fruit supported by sour raspberry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh slightly greenish fruit laced finish. Pleasant, in a lively, zesty key, and though it's not a wine for lovers of studied smoothness of the well polished Merlot variety, it will work very well with foods, ranging from succulent grilled meats or roasts through platters of fried meats and vegetables. In other words, versatile, and if you like the style you will like it very much.
88-90
La Marcellina
La Marcellina Sassocupo Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by spice and some bitter graphite shavings, while there is also a fair amount of vanilla. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by some tart berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a splintery cedar-laced overlay, and flow into a fairly clean tart tannic finish. It has a lax feel to it, which brings to mind someone whose arms are hanging down, and I would have liked, and perhaps expected, more depth and tightness than I found.
1 star
Il Colombaio di Cencio
Il Colombaio di Cencio - I Massi Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of spice mingled with nose tingling acidity and some dusky pencil shavings, but not much fruit. On the palate it's fairly rich, with very smooth sweet berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that are well polished, and flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. The nose is behind with respect to the palate, and I'd give the wine a year to get its bearings, and then drink it with succulent, not too fatty red meats. If you like this fairly international style you will enjoy it, and even if you're more traditional in outlook it does have a story to tell. But give it the year it needs.
2 stars
Il Colombaio di Cencio I Massi Chianti Classico 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, and frankly oaky, with a rush of cedar that covers most everything, and (if one concentrates) hints of red berry fruit that try to emerge from under the oaken cover. Very young, and out of sorts. On the palate it's further along, with fairly bright cherry and forest berry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are fairly smooth and display a cedar overlay that's again youth. It needs a year to get its bearings and come together, at which point it will be quite approachable in a fairly international fruit driven style, and, if you like the style, be worth seeking out. Even if you're more traditionally minded you'll find things to enjoy and ponder upon.
2 stars
I Sodi
I Sodi Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is surprisingly overripe, with jammy cooked berry fruit supported by moderate spice and some gum Arabic. Not what I would expect, and I wonder what happened. On the palate it's ample and rather smooth with moderately intense, fairly generic, tired red berry fruit supported by tart berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are savory, and lay a burr over the tongue. It's lax, rather like the boneless cat of Peanuts, and to be honest I'd expect more of a Riserva.
1 star
Felsina
Felsina Rancia Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a rather rustic key, with savory balsamic notes mingled with some wet stable straw spice. Pleasant, and considerable depth. On the palate it's rich, with deft red berry fruit supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity, and by clean sweet tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a clean fresh cherry finish with spicy tannic underpinning. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well with foods, in particular succulent grilled meats -- a porterhouse steak would be nice -- or hearty roasts, for example leg of lamb. It will also age nicely for 5-8 years, and perhaps more.
88-90
Felsina Chianti Classico 2006
Delicate ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, generic berry fruit that has a tired feel to it supported by some gum Arabic. On the palate it's lax, with moderately intense cherry fruit that has a generic feel to it, supported by slight acidity and by tannins that are smooth and rather soft. I'd have preferred greater tightness and definition; as it is it spreads out.
1 star
Fattoria San Michele a Torri
Fattoria San Michele a Torri Tenuta La Gabbiola Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
Deep cherry ruby with black cherry reflections and cherry rim paling to white. The bouquet is intense, and vinous, with tart berry fruit supported by brambly acidity and the heather of a Tuscan field in summer. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by deft sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are slightly greenish, and rather dry, laying a warm tannic wash over the tongue as they flow into a tart tannic finish. Pleasant, in a scrappy traditional key, and will drink quite well with succulent roasts or stews, while it also has the wherewithal to drink, now with a platter of fried meats and vegetables; it will also age nicely for 3-5 years at least.
2 stars
Fattoria San Michele a Torri Tenuta La Gabbiola Chianti Classico 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright berry fruit supported by clean spice and deft mentholated accents; it's quite young but has a fair amount to say, and promises well too. On the palate it's full, with rich languid cherry plum fruit supported by clean slightly mineral berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long tart berry fruit finish. It's quite young, and the tannins need to smooth, but when they do it will be rather laid back, a relaxed (not settled) wine that will drink nicely with red meats, in particular roasts or stews. I found it growing upon me.
2 stars
Fattoria Nittardi
Fattoria Nittardi Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, with, well, petroleum comes to mind, supported by greenish accents and underlying cedar. Lots of wood and this is what it has done. On the palate it's fairly rich, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by slight acidity -- it has been pretty well polished -- and by tannins that are very cedary, and flow into a decidedly cedar-laced finish. A lot of oak, and it has overshadowed the fruit considerably. Too much, for me.
1 star
Fattoria La Ripa
Fattoria La Ripa Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up moderately intense rather jammy red berry fruit supported by nose tingling spice. Direct, and this is also a factor of youth. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by deft sour berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright rather tart berry fruit finish. It's quite young, and the nose needs another year to get its bearings, at which point the wine will be quite nice with succulent grilled meats or hearty stews. If you like the traditional style it's worth seeking out, though you should give it the time it needs, and it will also age well for 5-8 years at least.
2 stars
Fattoria La Ripa Chianti Classico Riserva 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with sweetish cherry fruit supported by clean spice and slight vegetal accents that bring to mind a Tuscan field, and also by deft underlying acidity. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by brisk sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are still a bit splintery, but promise to develop into smoothness with time. Graceful, in a very traditional key, and if you like the style it will drink quite well with succulent red meats. A porterhouse would be perfect.
2 stars
Fattoria La Ripa Chianti Classico 2007
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim paling to white. The bouquet is fresh, and quite young, with bright floral accents mingled with tart strawberry cherry fruit. A smiling teen on a sunny day. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by clean fairly rich raspberry sour cherry acidity, and by sweet tannins that though smooth do have a slight greenish youthful burr, and flow into a clean fresh rather tart finish. Freshness in a glass, and a perfect wine for a cookout -- it will match both the grilled meats and the potato salad -- and with simple foods in the house too; if you like the more traditional style you will like it very much, and even if you're a modernist at heart you'll enjoy it with foods.
2 stars
Fattoria di Montecchio
Fattoria di Montecchio Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is a bit rustic, with balsamic accents mingled with some wet stable straw and underlying bitterness; there's also some leaf tobacco. On the palate it's ample, and rather soft, with moderately intense generic red berry fruit supported by slight mineral acidity, and by tannins that are fairly smooth and flow into a clean rather savory finish. It's lax, and I'd have liked more acidity and greater ripeness to the fruit, which has a tired feel to it. It's like someone who has settled too far into a deep armchair.
1 star
Dievole
Dievole Dieulele Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet isn't quite as clean as it might have been, with some red berry fruit supported by dusky underbrush that has some animal accents. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly ripe red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have splintery cedary accents and flow into a rather cedary finish. It's fairly direct, and I'd have liked more depth than I found.
1 star
Castello di Vicchiomaggio
Castello Vicchiomaggio La Prima Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and young, in an oaky key, with cedary hardwood ash that overshadows moderately intense red berry fruit and some brambles. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense berry fruit that's more generic than I might have expected supported by clean sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly tannic finish. The fruit is neither as bright nor as intense as I might have hoped, nor is there much acidity -- enough to keep the wine from settling, but not enough to give it drive, and with time I fear that it will all settle and fade.
1 star
Castello Vicchiomaggio Agostino Petri Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is a bit rustic, with balsamic notes mingling with wet leather and damp hardwood ash, and some underlying acidity. It's not old, but not really fresh, either. The palate reflects the nose; there's moderately intense rather languid cherry plum fruit supported by slightly metallic acidity, and by tannins that are greenish and smooth, flowing into a tart finish. This isn't what I usually expect from Vicchiomaggio, and I wonder if the vineyards were perhaps hit by hail.
1 star
Castello di Verrazzano
Castello di Verrazzano Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some fairly ripe berry fruit supported by slight cedar and some greenish leathery accents. On the palate it's moderately intense, with tired, rather generic red fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and by tannins that are splintery and flow into a tired finish. I'd have expected more than I found, especially from a Riserva.
1 star
Castello di Querceto
Castello di Querceto Il Picchio Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some red berry fruit and also hints of bell pepper. It brings to mind a person who doesn't want to be seen. On the palate it's bright, with rich red berry fruit supported by deft sour cherry acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, though they do display a youthful burr, and flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. It needs another year at least to get its bearings, but when it does will come together quite nicely, and will drink very well with succulent roasts or stews in the short term, while aging well for 5-8 years and perhaps more. Worth seeking out.
2 stars
Castello di Querceto Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit and delicate spice. Promising, but needs time. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by moderately intense rather greenish acidity, and by tannins that have a dusky, bitter burr and flow into a clean bright finish. It's one of those wines that may come across and a bit simple in a tasting, but that will be drunk much more quickly at table than wines that score more highly. In terms of accompaniments, it will work quite well with succulent grilled meats, light stews, and hearty roasts. Expect the bottle to go quickly, something one doesn't usually say (with a smile) about a Riserva.
2 stars
Castello di Cacchiano
Castello di Cacchiano Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry impenetrable. The bouquet is lively, with brambly berry fruit supported by clean greenish spice and refreshing coolness. On the palate it's brisk, with lively slightly sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly tart greenish finish that continues at length. Pleasant, in a rather graceful, willowy key, and will drink very nicely with foods, in particular red meats off the grill or light stews, and it also has the legs to age well for 5-8 years. Worth seeking out, especially if you prefer the more traditional style.
90
Castello di Cacchiano Chianti Classico 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with brooding greenish accents and spice that do a nice job of supporting black cherry fruit. A dusky collection of aromas that brings dappled shade on a crisp fall day to mind. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich cherry and forest berry fruit that gains direction from sour cherry acidity, and is supported by tannins that have a peppery tang and flow into a clean tart finish. Pleasant, and will drink nicely with pasta dishes, risotti, and simple meats.
2 stars
Castellare di Castellina
Castellare di Castellina Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is frankly vegetal, with some underlying cedar that has a haunting quality to it, but not much in the way of fruit. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich tart cherry and forest berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by rather greenish tannins that flow into a tart, rather bitter tannic finish. It's pleasant in a slightly rustic key, and will drink well with foods, though you should only consider it if you like this style. If you prefer more studied smoothness and softness, it won't work as well for you.
2 stars
Villa di Geggiano
Villa di Geggiano Chianti Classico Riserva 2006
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up dusky berry fruit laced with slight vegetal accents and pleasing savory spice. It's very young, but promising in a fairly traditional key. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rich cherry fruit supported by greenish berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long tart finish. Quite elegant, and will drink very well with roasts or stews in the short term, and also age nicely for a number of years, becoming lacy with time. Perhaps a meditation wine too, though time will tell. Worth seeking out if you like the more traditional style.
2 stars
Villa di Geggiano Chianti Classico 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim fading to orange. The bouquet is fairly rich, with mentholated red berry fruit supported by clean, rather haunting spice and hints of green leather; there's something ethereal to it and I found it growing upon me. On the palate it's clean and rich, with elegant red berry fruit, a mix of sour cherry and raspberry, supported by deft berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are a touch greenish and flow into a clean dry tannic finish. It needs time, a year at least, at which point it will drink quite nicely with succulent red meats off the grill or out of the oven. Traditional in style, and if you like the style it's worth seeking out; I would expect it to age nicely for at least 5 years.
2 stars
Vignamaggio
Vignamaggio Castello di Monna Lisa Chianti Classico Riserva 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit supported by dusky graphite shaving bitterness and clean spice; though quite young it promises nicely and is pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's full and quite smooth, with rich red berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that display some bitter accents, but are quite smooth, and flow into a clean peppery fruit laced finish. Quite pleasant in a fruit driven key, and if you like this middle of the road style, it will drink very well with hearty roasts or stews in the near term, and be something to sip by the glass in a few years' time.
2 stars
Vignamaggio Terre di Prenzano Chianti Classico 2006
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and some orange in the rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, and rather vegetal, with red berry fruit mingled with greenish cedar accents and some spice. Still very young, and it needs time to settle. On the palate it's fairly light, and further along than the nose, with bright slightly greenish berry fruit supported by warm sour cherry acidity and by smooth fairly sweet tannins that flow into a clean peppery fruit laced finish. Pleasant, though it needs a year to get its bearings, at which point it will be graceful in a middle of the road in key and drink well with grilled meats, light stews and similar dishes.
2 stars
Vignamaggio Chianti Classico 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is rather languid, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by berry fruit jam and pleasing nose tingling spice, while there is also some vegetal acidity to provide direction. On the palate it's fairly rich, with clean slightly sour berry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a deft sour cherry fruit finish. It's graceful, in a light, rather willowy key, and will work well with grilled meats or light stews; though it's ready to drink it will age well for a few years, becoming lacy and rather ethereal with time.
2 stars
Terrabianca
Terrabianca Croce Chianti Classico Riserva 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with rather pungent red berry fruit supported by cedar and some spice. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by clean fresh mineral acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a rather tart finish with dusky pencil shaving bitterness. It's fairly direct, though this is also youth at work, and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews, while aging well for another 5-8 years. I'd have liked greater richness to the fruit, but it will drink well with foods, and will age nicely, becoming lacy with time.
2 stars
Mannucci Droandi
Mannucci Droandi Ceppeto Chianti Classico Riserva 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit laced with some cedar and a fair amount of peppery spice. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a marked cedar underpinning, and flow into a cedar laced ripe fruit finish. It's quite international in style, and also quite approachable albeit young; in a year's time it will drink very well with roasts or stews, and will also age nicely for another 3-5 years at least.
2 stars
La Madonnina
La Madonnina Chianti Classico Riserva 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish berry fruit supported by deft brambly acidity and nose tingling spice from the grapes. On the palate it's fresh, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by lively sour cherry acidity, and by tannins that have a youthful splintery greenish burr, and flow into a clean peppery fruit laced finish with a cedar-laced underpinning. Pleasant, in a very young key, and if you like the style it will drink well with succulent red meats or light stews. Expect it to age nicely for 3-5 years, too.
2 stars
La Madonnina La Palaia Chianti Classico 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, with an initial rush of cedar that gives way to dusky red berry fruit with some spicy undertones and hints of tartness. It's very young and clearly still getting its legs about it. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich berry fruit that's quite smooth, supported by moderate acidity and by cedar-laced tannins that flow into a clean fairly dry finish. It's a bit more oaky than I might have liked, though this is also a factor of youth, because with time the oak will fold in. When it does the wine will be approachable in a rather soft middle of the road key, and will drink nicely with succulent, not too fatty roasts or grilled meats. I'd have liked a little more tightness than I found.
1 star
La Madonnina Bello Stento Chianti Classico 2007
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is quite young, and fresh, with tart strawberry fruit supported by bright acidity and some spicy floral accents. Youth in a glass. On the palate it's light, with bright cherry strawberry fruit supported by fairly bright acidity, and by clean sweet tannins that flow into a bright finish. Quite simple, and quite direct, and when you set it out on the table you'll have to open a second bottle posthaste because the first will vanish. Perfect for a cookout, with simple, quickly cooked meats, and also with fried meats and vegetables. A lark of a wine.
2 stars
Concadoro
Concadoro Chianti Classico Riserva 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with clean cedar-laced red berry fruit supported by peppery spice; it's quite young, but enticing in a modern key. On the palate it's fresh, with rich vanilla laced berry fruit that gains direction from moderately intense berry fruit acidity, and flows into a clean fresh cherry finish with vanilla underpinning. Quite international in style, and also quite approachable though still young, and it will benefit from another year in bottle. If you like the style you will enjoy it very much, and it's worth seeking out. Expect it to age well for 5-8 years at least.
2 stars
Concadoro Vigna di Gaversa Chianti Classico 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry berry rim. The bouquet is smoky, with fairly intense dusky cedar that overshadows most everything else. Oak in a glass, and this is in part youth and in part style. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that are fairly dry and cedar laced, flowing into a rather dry tannic finish. There's quite a bit of oak here, too much for me at present, and though some of the oak will fold in with time, I wonder if it will all be able to. If it does, it will be fairly international in style, and something you should only consider if you like strongly oaked wines.
1 star
Concadoro Chianti Classico 2007
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy berry fruit supported by fairly rich vanilla. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with fairly rich jammy fruit supported by moderate acidity -- quite enough to keep it on its toes -- and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Elegant in a decidedly international fruit driven key, and if you like this style you will enjoy it very much. It will drink nicely by the glass far from the table, or with quickly cooked, not too rich meats or vegetables. Worth seeking out if you like the style.
2 stars
Collelungo
Collelungo Chianti Classico Riserva 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. Oaky nose with greenish vanilla that in large part overshadows the fruit. Very young, and with time the oak will fold in, but at present it's imbalanced. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright slightly sweet berry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by tannins that are extremely vanilla laced, flowing into a fairly long vanilla finish. A study in oak, and though it will absorb some with time -- there's ample fruit to hold it together -- it is a wine that you have to like the style to enjoy.
2 stars
Collelungo Campocerchi Chianti Classico Riserva 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is frankly oaky. Pleasant, but very oaky, and you have to like the style to enjoy it. On the palate it's full, with fruit that is strong enough to emerge from the mantel of oak, though said mantle is quite present, and it flows into a fairly tart (there is acidity to provide direction) finish with a solid oaky underpinning. It's an extreme wine, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. If you instead of a more traditional bent you may react with horror. But it is a fine expression of the style, and if you like it you will enjoy it very much.
2 stars
Collelungo Chianti Classico 2007
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry impenetrable. The bouquet is fairly intense, and oaky, with quite a bit of cedar and some dusky cherry plum fruit; it's still getting its bearings and looking about. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich, fairly languid cherry plum fruit supported by deft acidity and by tannins that are quite smooth and have a hint of vanilla-cocoa about them, which derives from wood. It's elegant in a very international fruit driven key, and if you like the style you will like it very much, either by the glass, or with simple, quickly cooked entrees. It needs another year to come together -- the tannins are still a bit splintery -- but is worth seeking out if you like the style.
2 stars
Casa Emma
Casa Emma Chianti Classico Riserva 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is very young, and a bit unsettled, with an initial rush of something that brings lactic acid to mind, and that is likely wood-fruit interaction, and, with more swishing, cedar and a fair amount of spice; there's not much fruit, at least not yet. On the palate it's ample and rich, in a rather seductive key, with bright cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that do display some vanilla accents, but are nowhere near as oaky as the nose. It's like a person going in two directions at once, and since the palate will eventually win out, I expect that the wine will be quite graceful in an elegant, approachable international key. But it needs at least a year and perhaps two to reach that stage, by which point it will be worth seeking out if you like the style.
2 stars
Casa Emma Chianti Classico 2007
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit supported by some mentholated accents and some spice. Very young yet. On the palate it's ample, with rich red berry fruit supported by deft acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a delicate berry fruit finish. Quite deft, in a rich fruit driven key, and if you like the style will drink nicely either by the glass or with quickly cooked entrees. I would drink it sooner than later to enjoy its freshness, and if you like this smoother, softer (within reason, it's not Merlot) style it's well worth seeking out.
2 stars
Bibbiano
Bibbiano Vigna del Capannino Chianti Classico Riserva 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit supported by spice and vinous warmth. Very, very young, too. On the palate it's bright, with rich berry fruit supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a youthful Sangiovese burr, but promise well, and flow into a tart berry fruit finish. It's quite promising, but like a partially painted canvas; we can see where it's going and that it will be good, but it's not there yet. Give it at least 2 years, and expect it to drink nicely for 5-8 more. The score is more on the basis of the palate than the nose, which is still out in left field.
2 stars
Cantine del Castello di Brolio
Barone Ricasoli Rocca Guicciarda Chianti Classico Riserva 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is frankly rustic, with balsamic notes mingled with wet horse and some smoky stable straw. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by lax acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, but again lax; it's have liked greater tightness and definition to it all.
1 star
Villa Montepaldi
Villa Montepaldi Chianti Classico 2006
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is delicate, with clean berry fruit supported by some bitter cedar and floral accents, with alcoholic warmth and hints of sea salt as well. On the palate it's medium bodied, with deft slightly sour berry fruit supported by raspberry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean rather tart finish. Graceful, and will drink nicely with hearty meat-based pasta dishes or light stews, also with simple grilled meats and vegetables. Expect the bottle to go quickly.
2 stars
Isole e Olena
Isole e Olena Chianti Classico 2006
Deep cherry ruby with some orange in the rim. The bouquet is delicate, with cherry fruit supported by hints of leather and just enough acidity to keep it from feeling settled. On the palate it's clean and fresh, with fairly tart cherry raspberry fruit supported by tannins that have a greenish overlay and flow into a warm tart tannic finish. It's up front, and direct (in part because of youth), in a pleasingly open manner, and will drink quite well with grilled meats or light stews; expect the bottle to go quickly.
2 stars
Isole e Olena Chianti Classico 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with delicate cherry fruit supported by floral accents that open into greenish notes with swishing, while there are also hints of gum Arabic. On the palate it's medium bodied, and a bit lax, with ample raspberry fruit that spreads out more than I might have expected -- there isn't quite enough acidity to keep it in place, and the tannins are also rather soft. It brings to mind a stream overflowing its banks, somehow, and I'd have liked greater tightness and definition.
1 star
La Porta di Vertine
La Porta di Vertine Chianti Classico 2006
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is delicate, with floral accents mingled with greenish notes that bring to mind dappled shade, and add a haunting quality to it. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by deft tart cherry acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that gain depth from savory accents, and flow into a clean fairly tart tannic finish. Pleasant, in a lively youthful key, and will drink very well with foods, ranging from pasta or risotto through simple grilled meats and light stews. It would be a very nice wine to drink day by day.
2 stars
La Porta di Vertine Chianti Classico Riserva 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rich cherry fruit that gains direction from sour cherry acidity and depth from pleasant spice. Inviting. On the palate it's medium bodied, and quite deft, with rich sour cherry and raspberry fruit supported by clean deft berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long clean slightly bitter finish. Quite elegant, in a fairly traditional key, and will drink very well with succulent roasts or hearty stews in the short term, while it will also age nicely for 5-8 years or more. Worth seeking out if you like this fairly tart, traditional style.
88-90
Castellinuzza e Piuca
Castellinuzza e Piuca Chianti Classico 2007
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim paling to orange. The bouquet is rich, with elegant youthful floral accents mingled with red berry fruit and deft acidity; it's like a ray of sunlight on a spring day. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright raspberry cherry fruit supported by moderate raspberry acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly rich raspberry finish. Pleasant in a young, very upfront, very fresh key -- what you see is what you get, and it will drink well with simple foods, including cookout fare. A lark of a wine, and you can expect it to go quickly.
2 stars
Castellinuzza e Piuca Chianti Classico 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rich red berry fruit supported by bright raspberry and tart strawberry acidity, and by clean slightly mentholated spice. On the palate it's fresh, with rich cherry strawberry fruit, supported by brisk berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Freshness in a glass, and it will drink very well with grilled meats and the other makings of a cookout, though you could also enjoy it with a platter of fried meats and vegetables, or even with hearty pasta dishes or risotti. Expect the bottle to go quickly, and you will want another.
2 stars
Fattoria Le Due Arbie
Fattoria le Due Arbie Chianti Classico Riserva 2006
Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though some vanilla emerges, which becomes cola (wood-fruit interaction) with time. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry and forest berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are sweet and smooth, and have cocoa overtones that clearly reveal the influence of wood. It's very much a work in progress now, as barrel samples often are, but will be pleasant in a deft middle of the road key, and if you like the style will be worth seeking out.
Fattoria Le Due Arbie Chianti Classico 2007
Barrel sample
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is bright, and rich for a barrel sample, with elegant floral notes and sweet berry fruit supported by moderate acidity. On the palate it's again quite fresh, with delicate, slightly sour cherry and strawberry fruit supported by bright acidity and sweet tannins whose youthful peppery burr is very much to be expected as it's a barrel sample. Promising, however, and will likely be worth seeking out.
Tenuta di Nozzole
Tenuta di Nozzole La Forra Chianti Classico Riserva 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, with elegant berry fruit supported by some dusky cedar laced spice and hints of cocoa with some mentholated accents as well. Quite young, but promising, and displays considerable depth. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful cherry fruit supported by clean rather tart acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that lay a clean glancing burr over the tongue, and flow into a clean bright finish. Pleasant, though it needs another year to get its bearings, and will drink quite well with roasts or stews.
2 stars
Tenuta di Nozzole Nozzole Chianti Classico 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with floral accents and cut flowers mingling with pungent spice and red berry fruit. On the palate it's fairly rich, with clean soft cherry fruit that gains direction from moderate acidity, and is supported by clean sweet tannins that flow into a warm tart finish. Pleasant, in a middle of the road key, and will drink nicely with simple meats or light stews. I found it growing upon me.
2 stars
Lornano
Lornano Le Bandite Chhianti Classico 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with considerable dusky bitter cedar that overshadows most everything else. On the palate it's fairly rich, with languid cherry fruit that gins direction from deft berry fruit acidity and is supported by tannins that are still very young, and as a result have more of a cedar overlay than they will with time. It needs about a year, at which point it will be quite approachable in a fairly international key, and if you like the style, which is smooth and fruit driven, it will work well with drier roasts, for example turkey with all the fixings. Worth seeking out if you like the style.
2 stars
Lornano Chianti Classico 2007
Barrel sample
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is shut tight, though swishing brings up some sandalwood. On the palate it's ample and fairly soft, with rich cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that are still hard and splintery. A work in progress, and though I think it will be fairly fruit driven and soft in style, it's too soon to say.
Podere La Cappella
Podere la Cappella Chianti Classico 2006
Lively ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense and quite young, with an unusual mix of cut flowers, berry fruit, and a fair amount of spice that has a greenish underpinning. It gives an impression of being in mid stride. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich jammy berry fruit supported by deft cherry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a bright berry fruit finish. It needs a year to come together, but will be pleasant in a fairly middle of the road fruit driven key, and if you like wines in a slightly more opulent style you will enjoy it. If you're more traditionally minded, it might not be the best choice, but it does have an appealing brightness I rather enjoyed.
2 stars
Il Borghetto
Il Borghetto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Borghetto 2005
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is interesting, and intense, with warm balsamic accents mingled with cedar and some underlying berry fruit, and quite a bit of nose tingling spice. Rather exotic. On the palate it's ample, with rich rather languid plum cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have a distinctly greenish spicy burr and flow into a fairly sweet dusky tannic finish with well rounded plum overtones. It's unusual, interesting, and a bit outside the fold for Chianti, but if you like rich ripe fruit driven wines that have a tannic bite it's enjoyable, and because of its peppery spiciness will work well with succulent, well marbled to fatty cuts of meat. Particular, and takes no quarter.
2 stars
Il Borghetto Bilaccio Chianti Classico Riserva 2006
Lively rich cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and very young, with quite a bit of alcohol mingled with cedar and nose tingling spice; there's also some, but not too much cherry plum fruit. It's developing. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity, and to a greater degree by greenish tannins that flow into a long clean greenish tannic finish. It is again particular, and a bit outside the fold for Chianti Classico -- more tannic and greener than mast -- but if you like this powerful, decidedly tannic style it will work quite well with succulent roasts or stews. But you have to like the style.
2 stars
Le Filigare
Le Filigare Chianti Classico 2007
Deep slightly dusky cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, and young, with greenish vegetal accents mingled with red berry fruit and some nose tingling spice. Inviting, and quite fresh. On the palate it's light, with fairly rich, fairly soft cherry plum fruit supported by delicate cherry plum acidity, and by tannins that are smooth and fairly light. It's a simple, direct wine that will do a fine job of supporting simple foods, ranging from red sauced pasta dishes through quickly grilled meats. Expect the bottle to go quickly.
1 star
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