Vernaccia Di San Gimignano: The 2008 Vintage, Primarily

Vernaccia di San Gimignano's origins are shrouded in the mists of time: Some even suggest that the grapes used to make it were brought by the Etruscans. In any case, over the centuries the vines adapted superbly to the soil, and by the Renaissance Vernaccia was considered Italy's finest white wine, fit to fire the imaginations of poets, artists and Popes. Because of its historical renown, it was the first Italian wine to be awarded DOC status, in 1966.

This recognition proved a mixed blessing -- As Riccardo Falchini notes, in the centuries after the Renaissance warfare and turmoil swept away most of the region's enological traditions. Thus, most of the modern (as of 1966) white wines of San Gimignano bore little resemblance to their ancestor; in short order Vernaccia acquired a reputation of being light and spritzy that has still not been dispelled today, despite tremendous improvements in quality, especially on the part of the leading vintners.

Part of the problem is that Vernaccia grape is not noble, and therefore requires careful cultivation to low yields and superb technique to give good results; even today there are considerable differences in quality and much is still spritzy. Why do vintners persevere with it rather than plant Chardonnay? Because it's distinctive and unique, and the best is excellent: Powerful and full-bodied, with a rich, heady bouquet and a crisp clean taste that lingers long on the palate, a golden-hued wine that both warms and inspires. As Montenidoli's Elisabetta Fagiuoli observes, "it is really a red wine made from white grapes."

The Vernaccia appellation is fairly small, about 850 hectares of vineyards, planted on Pliocene hilly terrains of an average altitude of 280 M ASL around the town of San Gimignano; the soil types are primarily argille sabbiose (sandy clays) and sabbie gialle (yellow sands). The predominant varietal is, as one might expect, Vernaccia di San Gimignano, though the DOCG regulations allow a maximum of 10% non-aromatic white varietals to be added. The most popular blending varietal is Chardonnay, though it is not as popular as it was in the past. In other words, people are concentrating more on their Vernaccia.

The vineyards are primarily trained to the Guyot system, with a minimum planting density of 3000 vines per hectare, which many producers exceed by a considerable margin. The total allowable yield per hectare is 90 quintals, and many harvest much less.

The harvest generally falls between September and October 15, and is followed by temperature controlled fermentation; some producers ferment everything in steel or cement vats, while others barrel ferment some of their wines. The minimum alcohol level for Vernaccia di San Gimignano tout court is 11%, and the wine can be released in the spring following the harvest. There is also a Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva, which must be at least 11.5% alcohol, and must be aged for a year, at least four months of which in bottle,, prior to release. As general notes, most Vernaccia di San Gimignano is more than 11% alcohol, sometimes considerably more, and though some producers do make the Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva, it is not that popular.

This said, the wines released in 2009 (primarily 2008, with a few older wines as well), tasted in San Gimignano at the end of June 2009:

Agricoltori del Chianti Geografico

Agricoltori del Chianti Geografico Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fresh, with pleasing bitterness and honeysuckle mingled with some brambly accents and slight bitter almond, with underlying hints of tropical fruit, in particular honeydew melon. Welcoming. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich mineral laced citrus fruit supported by acidity and a fair amount of underlying bitterness that flows into a fairly long tart sour tannic finish. Direct in a wide-eyed youthful key -- nothing to hide -- and will work well with cheese or egg based antipasti, and also has the strength o work with lighter white meats, or even fried fish.
2 stars

Agricoltori Del Chianti Geografico Pietravalle Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is surprisingly fresh, with floral accents mingled with mineral acidity and some scalded milk, with underlying greenness and spice, and also some bitterness. Nice balance. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich mineral laced citron fruit supported by spice that has savory accents and flow into a warm decidedly salty finish. It's quite young, and will develop further with a year or two, but will work nicely now with hearty grilled fish or white meats, and will also be nice with fried fish or meats and vegetables.
2 stars

Fattoria di Cusona

Fattoria di Cusona Titolato Strozzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and some greenish highlights; white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and brooding, with tartness mingled with sour minerality and hints of gooseberry, and as it opens, hints of scalded milk that resolve into floral accents. It comes across as bulked up, and lumbers some. On the palate it's fairly direct, and quite savory, with warm salty lemon fruit supported by bitter minerality and acidity, which flow into a clean savory finish. Much minerality and savor in a direct fairly simple key, and it will work quite well with flavorful foods, for example fried white meats and vegetables, or fried fish, and also with fattier grilled fish along the lines of salmon. Up front.
1 star

Fattoria Cusona di Guicciardini Strozzi 1933 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2007
Clear bottle. Brassy yellow with some greenish accents and white rim. The bouquet is a bit overripe, with tropical fruit -- mentholated pineapple -- supported by vegetal accents and a certain coolness that brings dappled shade to mind. On the palate it's ample, and decidedly languid, with broad yellow berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by savory bitterness that has hints of scalded milk to it, and flows into a warm rather savory greenish finish. It's a bit overripe, and softer than I might have hoped for; as a result it spreads out some.
1 star

Fattoria Cusona di Guicciardini Strozzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2006
Clear bottle. The wine is brassy yellow with golden reflections and pale rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and decidedly savory, with sea salt and gunflint mingled with some loquat and bitter almond, and underlying greenish accents. Nice balance. On the palate it's bright, with lively bitter savory minerality supported by greenish mineral acidity that flows into a clean bright mineral finish with both saltiness and acidity that carry at length. Pleasant in a mature muscular key, though it's very much a food wine not to be drunk by itself; it will work well with flavorful grilled or roasted fish, and also with robust white meats.
2 stars

Fattoria Cusona di Guicciardini Strozzi Spumante Brut IGT Bianco Toscana
Pale brassy yellow with greenish reflections and fine intense perlage. The bouquet is moderately intense, with white fruit supported by some sparkle and greenish accents, with underlying minty notes. On the palate it's ample and soft, with clean minerality supported by moderate white fruit and sparkle, which flow into a clean fairly rich mineral and white fruit finish. It's direct, but pleasant in a cheeky sort of way, and will drink well as an aperitif or with foods.
2 stars

Tenuta Le Calcinaie

Tenuta Le Calcinaie Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections. The bouquet is clean, and deft, with the heather of a Tuscan field mingled with slight bitter almonds and savory minerality. Graceful. On the palate it's medium bodied, with clean smooth mineral laced slightly brambly lemon fruit supported by minerality and deft acidity. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well with creamy, not too rich risotti, vegetable based pasta dishes, and delicately prepared white meats, from land or sea. You may want a second bottle.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Fratelli Vagnoni

Azienda Agricola Fratelli Vagnoni Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Brassy yellow with slight greenish highlights and brassy reflections. The bouquet is muted, and cool, though swishing brings up some citrus that almost brings to mind a lemony glaze with underlying brambly wood from grape, and, as it opens, a degree of bitterness. On the palate it's fairly direct, with minerality supported by mineral acidity and underlying gunflint bitterness that flows into a fairly long bitter mineral finish. Fairly direct, and will drink well with egg or cheese based dishes, also with vegetable-based pasta or risotto.
1 star

Azienda Agricola F.lli Vagnoni Fontabuccio Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2007
Clear bottle. The wine is pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is bright, and brambly, with considerable heather and bitterness mingled with minerality that brings to mind a hammer against granite. Pleasant and nicely defined. On the palate it's bright, with rich minerality supported by some bitterness and mineral acidity that flow into a long clean savory mineral finish. Quick to write, but quite pleasant to drink, and will work very well with all sorts of foods, from pasta and risotti though white meats from land or sea. In short versatile, and you may want a second bottle.
90

Azienda Agricola F.lli Vagnoni Vinbrusco IGT Bianco Toscana 2008
Vinbrusco was, traditionally, a white wine made by blending Vernaccia with the white grapes used to make Chianti, i.e. Malvasia and Trebbiano. F.lli Vagnoni's interpretation is slightly different, with 70% Vernaccia di S.Gimignano, 10% Vermentino, 10% Malvasia del Chianti, and 10% Trebbiano Toscano. Clear bottle. The wine is brassy slightly greenish yellow with brassy reflections and paler white rim. The bouquet is muted at first swish, though more swishing brings up heather and herbal accents mingled with spice and citrus, also some mint. Airy. On the palate it's ample, with lively lemony fruit supported by brisk slightly sour lemon acidity and some bitterness that flow into a clean fairly bright citric finish with greenish underpinning and some bitterness. Quite approachable, in a direct sort of way, and will drink well with grilled fish or white meats. Expect the bottle to go quickly.
1 star

Azienda Agricola F.lli Vagnoni I Mocali Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2007
Fairly rich brassy gold with brassy reflections and yellow in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with tart greenish acidity laced with gunflint and some spice,also greenish almond bitterness and some crushed peach pit. On the palate it's fairly intense, in a languid key, with minerality and some mineral acidity more than fruit supported by butterscotch laced milky bitterness with some savory accents that flow into a bitter mineral finish. It's a bit settled, and I'd have liked greater brightness and verve.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Fontaleoni

Azienda Agricola Fontaleoni Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections. Looks inviting. The bouquet is fairly rich, with delicate herbal notes mingled with bitterness and the heather of a Tuscan field in the summer sun, while there are also savory accents that provide depth. Nice balance. On the palate it's fairly rich, with clean tropical fruit, pineapple laced with grapefruit, supported by bright slightly mineral acidity that flows into a fairly long grapefruit finish with underlying bitterness. Pleasant, and will work well as an aperitif with cheese or egg based antipasti, and will also work well with vegetable or fish based pasta or risotto, and with steamed or roasted fish. It grew on me; worth seeking out.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Fontaleoni Notte di Luna Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with bright brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with minerality and some bitterness mingled with heather and slight underlying spice from grapes. Opens nicely, with greenish floral accents supported by sea salt emerging. On the palate it's fairly direct, with savory minerality supported by some bitterness and mineral acidity that flow into a clean citric finish with underlying bitterness that provides definition. A nice food wine, a bit tighter than some, and will work well with fish, creamy risotti or pasta dishes, and also has the wherewithal to be nice with fried meats or fish and vegetables. Quite versatile, and will go quickly. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Fontaleoni Vigna Casa Nuova Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Charged golden yellow with brassy golden reflections and pale yellow rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish heather and bitter almond nutmeats mingled with some spice and hints of citron acidity. Quite young, and still developing, but promises well. On the palate it's bright, with rich decidedly bitter minerality laced with some citron fruit and clean underlying bitterness that flows into a fairly long bitter finish. Bitter used many times, but that's what comes across, and it will work well with succulent grilled or roasted fish, cheese dishes, and also with fried or quickly cooked whit meats that aren't too spicy. In short versatile in a fairly charged key, and will be perfect given the proper setting.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Fontaleoni Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2007
Brassy yellow with brassy golden reflections and lemony overtones. The bouquet is fairly intense, with lemony fruit mingled with strong gunflint and some butterscotch toffee, with underlying minerality as well. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich lemony fruit supported by mineral acidity and some bitterness, and by savory notes as well that flow into a warm finish with tongue-sparkling white pepper. It's not as lithe as some of the younger wines -- more bulk to it -- but if you like the style it is pleasant; there's quite enough acidity to keep it from settling, and it will drink well with rich fish or creamy white meats.
1 star

Panizzi

Panizzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Brilliant brassy yellow with brassy reflections and slight green highlights. The bouquet is dusky, with fairly intense floral accents -- cut flowers and hints of honeysuckle mingled with slight loquat -- supported by some greenish bitterness and by underlying slightly pungent minerality. On the palate it's fairly full, and direct, with bright mineral-laced lemon fruit supported by bitterness and some sea salt that work into a fairly long bitter finish with white pepper spice. It's direct, and up front, a very approachable wine that will work well with flavorful fish or vegetable based pasta sauces, or with egg vegetable based entrees, along the lines of a frittata or soufflé.
2 stars

Panizzi Vigna Santa Margherita Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is bright, and ripe, with pineapple fruit mingled with greenish accents and some mint, and also strong herbal notes -- greenish bitter almond/crushed peach pit, and some honeysuckle. It seems quite ripe, and is charged too. On the palate it's ample, with rich ripe loquat fruit supported by minerality and mineral acidity with some underlying bitterness, while there are also peppery accents that flow into a distinctly mineral finish. It's not as powerful on the palate as on the nose, but is graceful, and will work nicely as an aperitif. Truth be told, it's more of an individualist than a team player, and I would almost be tempted to drink it by the glass without foods that might distract. Of course it will also work well with foods, especially flavorful fish or white meats, and I would also think to serve it with oriental dishes. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Panizzi Evoé Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2006
Slightly orange brassy gold with old gold reflections and pale rim. Clearly a little older. The bouquet is intense, with ample crushed peach pit and almond skin greenness mingled with spice and a fair amount of alcohol, and also a dusky coolness; there's also butterscotch and some minty accents. Quite a bit going on in a fairly intense, very modern key. On the palate it's rich, with powerful fairly sweet white fruit supported by bitter almond laced tannins -- it feels like chewing a peach pit -- alcohol, and warmth. It is an extreme expression of Vernaccia, and fairly international in character; also quite young, and if you like the style you will like it. If you don't you won't and there's no middle ground. In short, it's a wine to pour if you know the tastes of your companions. I would also expect it to age well for 3-5 years at least.
2 stars

Panizzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2005
Brassy yellow with brilliant golden reflections and highlights. The bouquet is rich, with greenish bitter almond mingled with spice and alcohol, and also greenish acidity. Pleasant in a decidedly mature key. On the palate it's ample, with rich savory lemony fruit that has sour accents and is supported by a combination of sour citric acidity and dusky raspy tannins, and flows into a clean bitter finish. Pleasant, in a mature key -- you have to like this in a wine -- and will drink well with hearty fish stews or similar, also with creamed white meats, and might be a good bet with a chicken pot pie. Worth seeking out if you like the style.
2 stars

Panizzi Il Bianco di Gianni IGT Bianco Toscana 2004
Lively brassy greenish gold with brassy reflections and green highlights. The bouquet is intense, and decidedly herbal, with artichoke greenness mingled with spice and some gunflint -- it's mature, and though it's quick to write there's quite a bit to say. On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with rich sour lemony fruit supported by greenish accents and minerality that flow into a clean greenish finish. Pleasant, in a mature key, and will drink quite well with flavorful fish or creamy white meats; is the sort of wine that creeps up on own, and I found myself enjoying it considerably. I would also expect it to age well for at least 5 more years.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Casale Falchini

Azienda Agricola Casale Falchini Vigna a Solatio Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Brilliant brassy gold with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with tropical fruit mingled with heather and some bitterness; then herbal accents, in particular slight mint, come forward mingled with sea salt. On the palate it's full and direct, with fairly rich mineral-laced savory lemon fruit that flows fairly quickly into a bitter mineral finish. The buildup of the nose is more impressive that the palate, which I found more direct. This said, it is quite approachable, and is one of those wines that will seem to drink itself when set on the table; it will work quite well with risotti or rich pasta sauces (vegetable or fish more than meat), and also ahs the wherewithal to work well with white meats form land or sea.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Casale Falchini Ab Vinea Doni Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2007
Lively brassy gold with brassy reflections and greenish highlights. The bouquet is ripe with floral accents and quite a bit of alcohol mingled with mint and nettles, some bitter almond, and underlying butterscotch that makes it feel slightly bulked up. On the palate it's ample, with bright slightly greenish citron fruit supported by greenish bitterness and savory accents that flow into a warm decidedly mineral savory finish with some underlying hints of butterscotch and balsam. I found myself rather enjoying it. A versatile food wine. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Casale Falchini Vigna a Solatio Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2007
Brassy yellow with golden reflections and brassy rim. The bouquet is bright, with rich loquat fruit supported by greenish spice and some cedar, also by a certain airiness and white pepper. On the palate it's fairly rich, with ample bright white berry fruit laced with loquat and minerality that flows into a clean mineral finish with savory accents and some gunflint as well. Pleasant, in an ample, fairly soft key -- I would have liked more crispness -- and will drink well with rich fish dishes or white meats.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Casale Falchini Spumante Metodo Classico IGT Bianco Toscana 2005
Brassy gold with intense fine perlage. The bouquet is elegant, with intriguing greenish accents mingled with savory notes and sea salt, and tart apple acidity, with some bitter almond as well. Nice balance and pleasant to sniff; with further sniffing hints of lees also emerge. On the palate it's ample, with fullness coming from both wine and sparkle; the fruit is quite dry with some hints of apple, but more almond and bitterness, while the sparkle provides pepper and fullness, and it flows into a distinctly savory mineral finish. Pleasant, and will work quite well as an aperitif or with foods; it's versatile and has quite a bit to say. One of those wines one hates to pour out at a tasting.
88-90.

Azienda Agricola Casa Alle Vacche

Azienda Agricola Casa Alle Vacche Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Brassy white with brilliant brassy reflections and pale yellow in the rim. The bouquet is muted at first swish, revealing slight smoky bramble and cool minerality, but it gives an impression of wanting to be left alone. On the palate it's full and direct, with clean moderately acidic minerality laced with hints of scalded milk and some savory accents, which flow into a fairly long mineral finish with underlying acidity. It's quite direct in a rather loose key, a simple wine that will support what it's served with without hogging the limelight, and will work well with simple vegetable based pasta dishes or risotti, and also with vegetable based entrees or cool summer dishes, for example panzanella.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Casa Alle Vacche I Macchioni Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Pale brassy gold with brilliant apricot laced brassy reflections, and white rim. The bouquet is muted; swishing brings up faint floral accents mingled with some spice, and slight greenish overtones. Nice balance, and is clearly developing. On the palate it's ample, with moderately rich mineral laced bitter citric fruit supported by bitterness that flows into a fairly long decidedly bitter finish. It's not as bright as I would have hoped on the palate, but rather a bit settled.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Casa Alle Vacche Crocus Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2007
Brassy yellow with brilliant old gold reflections and yellow rim. It looks older than some. The bouquet is fairly intense, with delicate greenish almond fuzz supported by butterscotch and toffee, and by some lactic acid -- not sure how else to describe it. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich mineral laced sour loquat fruit supported by mineral acidity, which flows into a clean bitter mineral finish with tropical fruit overtones. It's not as graceful as the younger wines, and I found myself missing that grace.
1 star

Gruppo Italiano Vini Melini

Gruppo Italiano Vini Melini Le Grillaie Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Brilliant brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted at first swish, giving up faint hints of toffee more than caramel; more swishing brings up minerality and some savory notes, with delicate underlying bitterness. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich savory mineral laced very ripe sour lemon fruit supported by savory accents, some tannins from the grapes and underlying savory bitterness that flows into a fairly long bitter finish. The overall impression is one of languidity, with the nose being slightly behind the palate; this said it's a pleasant food wine that will work well with creamy pasta dishes or risotto, and will also be a nice general summer wine, working well with quickly cooked meats or fish, and with the egg based dishes along the lines of a frittata that make summer heat more bearable. I might be tempted to break it out at a cookout too, for those who would rather not a red.
2 stars

Palagetto Tenute Niccolai

Palagetto Tenute Niccolai Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
A clear glass bottle. The wine is pale brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections and paler brassy highlights. The bouquet is smoky, with heather and fairly intense pungent notes mingled with bitter almond and underlying bitterness, with slight hints of lathered horse. On the palate it's bright, with rich savory lemon fruit supported by bitter accents and minerality that flow into a clean mineral citric finish that again gains definition from some minerality. It's more complex and more mineral than some, and will work well as an aperitif with fish or cheese based antipasti, though it will be better with fished based dishes, ranging from grilled salmon through more exotic fare, and I might even be tempted to serve it with more richly flavored dishes, for example kedgeree. I found it growing upon me.
2 stars

Palagetto Tenute Niccolai Santa Chiara Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is bright, with greenish accents and peach pit bitterness mingled with heather and some citron acidity. Nice balance in a fairly rich key. On the palate it's bright, with rich bitter citric fruit supported by greenish acidity and underlying sea salt that carry into a bracingly fresh lemony sea salt finish. Quite nice, in a decidedly zesty key, and will drink well with simple grilled white meats, flavorful grilled fish, and also with creamy dishes or fried fish and vegetables. It grew upon me.
88-90

Palagetto Tenute Niccolai Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2005
Lively gold with brilliant gold reflections and brassy highlights. The bouquet is intense, and clearly mature, with greenish accents and balsam mingled with white berry fruit and spice, while there's also fair gunflint minerality and mineral acidity. Nice balance, and quite rich. On the palate it's ample, with rich greenish sour lemon fruit supported by dusky gunflint bitterness and a fair amount of savory acidity that flow into a clean bitter finish. Pleasant, in a mature key, and has quite a bit to say; it will work well with hearty creamy dishes, either fish or fowl, and I might be tempted to think about eastern dishes as well..
2 stars

Palagetto Tenute Niccolai I Noccolò IGT Bianco Toscana 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted; swishing brings up some greenish accents and citrus supported by underlying bitterness. Quite young and still developing. On the palate it's fairly rich, with lively citric fruit laced with yellow plum and supported by a combination of sour lemony acidity and tannins that have a raspy core and flow into a clean rather raspy lemony finish.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Le Rote

Azienda Agricola Le Rote Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Brilliant brassy yellow with lively brassy reflections and pale yellow highlights with faintly yellow rim. The bouquet is muted at first swish; more swishing brings up heather and some vegetal accents mingled with citric tartness and spice. A nice balance. On the palate it's bright, with lively lemony citric fruit supported by bitterness and some savory accents, with underlying hints of bramble as well that flow into a fairly long savory bitter finish. Deft, in a more languid than tight key, and will drink well as an aperitif with fish or cheese based antipasti, and will also work nicely with white meats, from land or sea. I think it will also age nicely for a few years.
2 stars

La Mormoraia

La Mormoraia Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections. The bouquet is shut tight; swishing brings up some heather and bitter almond with underlying savory accents and a citric underpinning. Nice balance. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich decidedly savory lemon fruit supported by underlying savory bitterness that flows into a fairly long savory citric finish. It's ample, and fairly direct, and will drink well with flavorful fish, for example grilled salmon, and also with white meats, ranging from roasted chicken though fried meats and vegetables. In short, versatile, and worth seeking out.
2 stars

La Mormoraia Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2006
Brassy yellow with brassy reflections and greenish highlights. The bouquet is fairly intense, with tropical fruit laced with greenish accents and savory butterscotch. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich minerality more than fruit, supported by mineral acidity and some savory accents that flow into a bitter mineral finish. It's not as bright as I might have liked -- the minerality is there but lacks verve -- but is pleasant enough in a smoother softer key, and if you like this style you will enjoy it; in terms of accompaniments, I would go with delicately flavored fish or white meats.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Canneta

Azienda Agricola Canneta Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Clear bottle. The wine is pale brassy yellow with bright brassy reflections and pale brass rim. The bouquet is fairly intense,with ith savory bitterness mingled with some bitter almond and as it opens slightly pungent floral accents. On the palate it's bright, with lively savory minerality supported by a degree of peppery tartness that flows into a clean rather tart mineral finish with underlying savory notes and peppery spice that lasts. Direct, and because of the peppery accents, which are quite palate cleansing, will work well with creamy Italian dishes, and I might be tempted to serve it with moderately spiced oriental dishes (the Cantonese school comes to mind) as well.
1 star

Fattoria San Donato

Fattoria San Donato Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Brassy yellow with brassy reflections and pale yellow rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with heather and mint mingled with savory notes and floral accents; it's not as tightly defined as some, but seems rather expansive. On the palate it's ample, and fairly direct, with bitter mineral laced citric fruit that has dusky bitter undertones that flow into a bitter fairly tannic finish that's also fairly long. It's direct, and up front, a wine that will drink well with grilled fish or simple white meats, and also has the wherewithal to work well with fired meats or fish, but isn't as complex as some.
1 star

Fattoria San Donato Angelica Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2006
Brassy gold with brilliant golden reflections and pale yellow rim. Clearly a little older. The bouquet is intense, with butterscotch and minerality nicely balanced, and some bitter almond, which emerges with time and swishing to do its part carrying the show. Also a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's ample, with fairly intense butterscotch laced minerality supported by dusky savory notes more than acidity, and by slightly raspy tannins that again have bitter butterscotch overtones, and flow into a clean finish with slight underlying oaky sweetness. Vernaccia is masked by wood, but the wood is well used, and if you like deftly oaked whites you will enjoy it. It's just that it's much more generic than a Vernaccia made in steel from the same grapes would have been. In short, you have to like the style.
2 stars

Fattoria San Donato Benedetta Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2006
Brassy yellow with brassy reflections and yellow in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish bitter almond laced with acidity and minerality; though it's quick to write there's nice balance and it's pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's fairly full, with rich lemony fruit supported by dusky bitterness and warm sour lemon acidity that flow into a long salty sour lemon finish with hints of lactic acid. Pleasant, in a fairly mature key, and will drink well with succulent grilled fish or white meats. A nice balance of age, power, and freshness. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Il Palagione

Il Palagione Hydra Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections and pale papery lemony yellow in the rim as well. The bouquet is fairly intense, with strong greenish accents and underlying mineral acidity, with some bitterness as well; with swishing heather also emerges, and with time savory gooseberry. On the palate it's languid, with fairly bright sour lemon fruit supported by sour citric acidity and by some savory bitterness that flows into a clean bitter savory finish. It's fairly direct, and will work well with foods, supporting rather than taking center stage. I would drink it with creamy risotti, vegetable (including red sauced) or fish based pasta dishes, and also with white meats from land or sea, either grilled or fried. It opens nicely and is a nice food wine.
2 stars

Il Palagione Enif IGT Bianco Toscana 2008
This is a blend of Trebbiano and Malvasia. Brassy yellow with greenish reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted; swishing brings up some herbal accents, and some spice, but one has the impression that nobody is home. It needs time. On the palate it's fairly rich, with lively lemony fruit supported by lemony acidity and some minerality, which flow into a clean fresh citric finish. Quite approachable, and direct, a food wine that will work well with first course dishes and similar, and might also be a good bet on a picnic.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Zeta Project

Azienda Agricola Zeta Project Impronta Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with considerable heather and slightly smoky bitterness mingled with slight bramble and underlying minerality. Nicely defined. On the palate it's fairly rich, with lively lemony fruit supported by savory citric acidity and some bitterness, which flow into a clean savory finish. It's up front, and very much a food wine, which will work well with fish, cheese or egg based antipasti, creamy vegetable or fish based first course dishes, and will also be nice with frittata and other such egg based second course dishes, as well as with white meats. In short, quite versatile, and while not terrifically complex it one of those wines that will go quickly as it accompanies what it's served with.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Zeta Project Zeta Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Pale brassy gold with brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with rich greenish peach pit bitterness mingled with some bitter almond and a fair amount of gunflint minerality, as well as citric acidity. On the palate it's fairly rich, with clean gunflint laced citric fruit supported by bitterness and clean bright acidity that flow into a fairly long clean greenish finish with underlying citric acidity. Pleasant, and will drink well with grilled fish or white meats, and also with creamy white meat based dishes. It's ready now, but will age well for 3-5 years at least.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Zeta Project Cassandra Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2007
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and papery white rim. The bouquet is more intense than I expected, and rather balsamic in an angry way at the outset, with green accents and wood smoke mingled with bitter crushed peach pits and balsam; with swishing savory butterscotch also emerges, and some scalded milk, while the anger fades more into green bitter almonds. On the palate it's rich, with lively rather smoky minerality supported by mineral acidity and peppery spice that flows into a bright peppery finish with underlying mineral acidity that's fairly long. It's ample and powerful; the Italian word that comes to mind is irruento, whose English translation might describe bulls in china shops. This said, it will work well with hearty, richly flavored foods, and also has the capacity to age well for a number of years. I found it a bit bulky, but if you like the style you will enjoy it.
1 star

Fattoria Poggio Alloro

Fattoria Poggio Alloro Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and papery yellow rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with almost chalky floral accents at first sniff, together with some greenish savory accents and spice, it's not quite cedary, but definitely greenish with some smoky overtones. On the palate it's ample, and rather lax, with minerality and mineral acidity supported by some underlying savory bitterness; it brings to mind a person who has let go.
1 star

Cà del Vispo

Cà del Vispo Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Lively brassy yellow with reflections that have an element of apricot orange to them that suggests, to me, overripening. On the palate it's fairly rich, with greenish fruit that has some sour apricot feel to it, and underlying peppery spice. Quite charged and getting its bearings, though it also seems to lumber some, and there's also quite a bit of alcohol. On the palate it's ample, and softer than I expected, with moderately intense bitterness and some citric acidity, but less in the way of fruit; the finish is fairly long, with greenish citric accents.
1 star

Cà del Vispo Vigna in Fiore Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Brassy gold with greenish highlights and brassy reflections. The bouquet is intense, with creenish accents and peach pits, mingled with not quite almond paste, but something in that direction that brings cedar to mind, and quite a bit of alcohol as well. On the palate it's ample, with quite a bit of alcohol supporting greenish fruit that gains direction from sour citron acidity, and flows into a savory citron laced finish with alcohol underpinning. It's quite charged, and you have to like this slightly over the top style. If you do it will work well with succulent grilled fish, roasted fish, or white meats. But you have to like strong, alcohol intensive wines. In short, particular.
2 stars


Colombaio

Colombaio Selvabianca Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Lively deep lemony yellow with slightly orange reflections and pale yellow rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and greenish, with some cedar mingled with sour lemon, and underlying almond skin and green apricot. It seems to lumber in a lax sort of way. On the palate it's ample, with moderately rich citric fruit supported by a fair amount of savory bitterness that flows into a clean slightly tannic bitter finish. It's ample, and not as tightly defined as I might have liked; the various elements aren't going in different directions, but there is a degree of looseness to it. This said, it will work well with vegetable based entrees, for example a spinach sformato or onion frittata, or with grilled or roasted fish.
1 star

Colombaio di Santa Chiara Albereta Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Lively brassy gold with brassy reflections and pale rim. The bouquet is moderately rich, with some toffee mingled with greenish accents and spice; there's also a certain airiness to it, but not much in the way of acidity or minerality. On the palate it's ample, and fairly direct, with moderately intense minerality more than fruit -- what fruit there is, mostly citric, feels rather overripe -- supported by some bitterness, which flows into an ample rather bitter finish. It's a bit settled, and with less richness of fruit than I might have liked.
1 star

Rampa di Fugnano

Rampa di Fugnano Alata Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Lively brassy yellow with brassy reflections and pale yellow rim. The bouquet is rich, with considerable minerality laced with some bitter almond and underlying pineapple fruit and heather. Nice balance, and pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's bright, and rich, with lively lemony fruit that gains richness from brambly peppery accents and is supported by bitterness, which flows into a bitter slightly peppery citric finish. It's a fresh, lively wine, rather like a boisterous teen, and will drink quite well with creamy fish or vegetable based pasta dishes, with grilled or roasted fish, and also with white meats. In short, versatile, and will also go quickly. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Rampa di Fugnano Privato Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2007
Brassy gold with brilliant brassy reflections and some greenish highlights. Fairly charged. The bouquet is fairly intense, and dusky, with cedar mingled with sea salt and savory bitterness; there are also some haunting greenish accents and almond blossoms, and as it opens lemony aromas. On the palate it's full and rather languid, with bright tropical fruit - loquat - supported by mineral acidity and dusky smoky bitterness that flows into a clean mineral-savory finish with underlying bitterness and tightly controlled acidity, which does reveal some loquat-citric accents as it fades. Deft, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. It's much more reserved than many of the base wines; in terms of accompaniments, I would think of egg or cheese based antipasti, vegetable based pasta dishes or soups, and also of delicately flavored fish or white meat. Versatile, and I found it growing upon me.
2 stars

Rampa di Fugnano Viogniè IGT Bianco Toscana 2007
Pale brassy yellow with greenish reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with honeydew melon supported by greenish vegetal accents and some vegetal acidity. On the palate it's fairly rich, with clean bright lemony fruit supported by loquat acidity and hints of mint that flow into a clean fresh finish with lasting acidity. Quite approachable, and fairly rich, a wine that will work well as an aperitif, or with main course dishes.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola La Lastra
Tel 0577 941 781

Azienda Agricola La Lastra Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and papery yellow rim. The bouquet is deft, with heather and minerality mingled with some bitter almonds; it brings to mind a granite outcrop somehow. Much minerality, and with more swishing delicate heather also emerges, as do some greenish accents. On the palate it's ample and rich, with brambly citric fruit that's a bit more languid than I expected supported by mineral acdityt and by pleasant savory undertones that flow into a tart fairly savory finish. Pleasant, in a fairly rich youthful key, and will drink well with creamy first course dishes, white meats from sea or land, and will also work well with non-Italian dishes, ranging from eclectic American fusion (built around white meats and vegetables) through Chinese dishes of the Canontese or similar schools. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola La Lastra Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2007
Brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections and rim paling to white. The bouquet is muted at first swish, though more swishing brings up green almond and some bitterness with underlying spice and sea salt, and some minerality too; as it opens the bitterness becomes gunflint. On the palate it's full, with bright bitter minerality laced with gunflint and white pepper, and supported by tart mineral acidity that flows into a fairly long bitter mineral finish with decidedly sparkly white pepper spice. It's pleasant, and will work well with richly flavored white meats or fish -- salmon and swordfish off the grill come to mind -- and will also age nicely for 5 years at least.
2 stars

Casa Vinicola Luigi Cecchi e Figli

Casa Vinicola Luigi Cecchi e Figli Castello Montauto Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Clear bottle. The wine is pale brassy white with brassy reflections and very pale greenish highlights. The bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish bitter almonds mingled with heather and some minerality; with swishing a certain pungency also emerges. On the palate it's not as tight as I expected, with rather languid savory lemon fruit supported by citric acidity that flows into a clean bitter savory citric finish that does tighten up nicely. Pleasant, and versatile; it will drink well with all sorts of things, from creamy pasta dishes through grilled fish or white meats, and will also work well with fried meats and vegetables. A good summer wine that will also drink nicely in the winter months, and will age nicely for a few years. Worth seeking out.
88-90

Fattoria Abbazia di Monteoliveto

Fattoria Abbazia di Monteoliveto Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and pappert white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with heather and bitterness mingled with minerality and slight citric acidity. Nice balance, and pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's softer than I expected, with ample fairly rich minerality supported by savory accents and some mineral acidity that flow into a fairly mineral finish. I'd have liked greater depth than I found.
1 star

Fattoria Abbazzia di Monteoliveto La Gentilesca Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2007
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents and ripe tropical fruit, pineapple to be precise, laced with minerality and some gunflint as well. On the palate it's fairly rich, and again a bit overripe, with tropical fruit laced with greenish accents and warmth, and a fair amount of acidity that flow into a warm savory greenish finish with a fairly strong alcoholic underpinning. It's a bit unbalanced, and I found myself wishing for more fruit and less alcohol.
1 star


Poderi del Paradiso

Poderi del Paradiso Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Clear bottle. The wine is lively brassy gold with brassy reflections and pale yellow rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with savory notes and gunflint bitterness mingled with warm sour acidity and some brambly accents. Nice balance, and there's something haunting to it. On the palate it's ample, and quite mineral, with savory accents and underlying bitterness that provide direction, while the acidity is also more mineral than citric, and it flows into a long bitter slightly tannic finish. Pleasant, and will drink quite well with creamy first course dishes, while it also has the wherewithal to work well with white meats, from land or sea. In short, quite versatile, and will also age well for 3-5 years.
2 stars

Poderi del Paradiso Biscondola Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2007
Brassy yellow with brassy reflections and slight lemony highlights. The bouquet is fairly intense, with heather and some bitter almond at the outset, and also a fair amount of gunflint; it brings to mind a hammer-blow to a granitic outcrop, and as it opens unusual hints of well salted grilled pepper also emerge. Interesting and somewhat atypical. On the palate it's ample and languid, with fairly rich loquat fruit that has a slight savory pepper underpinning, and is supported by acidity that is quite strong enough to keep the wine from flagging, but not quite as crisp as I might have hoped, and flows into a fairly long warm finish with a smoky tannic underpinning. The nose is more interesting than the palate, and, as I said, it is rather atypical. This said, if you like the style it will work well as an aperitif with fairly rich antipasti, or with creamy risotti or pasta dishes, or with white meats from land or sea.
2 stars

Poderi del Paradiso Lo Chà IGT Bianco Toscana 2008
This is a Charconnay. Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish citric accents mingled with white flowers and dusky spice, also hints of chalk. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's full, with bright lemony fruit supported by deft citric acidity that flows into a fairly long citric finish. Quite approachable in a simple direct key, and will work well with antipasti, creamy risotti and vegetable based pasta dishes, and similar; it also has the acidity necessary for fried fish or vegetables. Expect the bottle to go quickly.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Cesani Vincenzo

Azienda Agricola Cesani Vincenzo Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Lemony gold with brassy highlights and pale yellow rim. Quite charged looking. The bouquet is fairly intense, with heather and nettles mingled with greenness and some cut hay; there's also pleasant bitter almond. On the palate it's ample, and quite mineral, in a rather languid key, with direction coming from savory bitterness and some spice, and also from clean mineral acidity that flows into a fairly long mineral finish with a clean bitter underpinning. It will drink well with grilled fish, including more flavorful kinds such as salmon or swordfish, and also with white meats. A bit more powerful than I might want for run-of-the-mill first courses, though something such as kedgeree would be quite nice with it.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Cesani Vincenzo Sanice Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2007
Deep brassy gold with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and a little atypical, with a degree of sweetness and white fruit, a mixture of banana and some butterscotch toffee supported by slight mint and moderate minerality. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich white berry fruit that gains direction from delicate lemony acidity, and is supported by butterscotch accent as well, which flow into a clean delicate lemony finish. A more graceful, almost willowy expression of Vernaccia that is, I think, oaked, but not heavily. It will work well as an aperitif with fish or cheese based antipasti, and also with delicate fish or white meats. Not quite enough verve for a creamy first course dish.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola San Quirico

Azienda Agricola San Quirico Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Clear bottle. Pale brassy gold with lively brassy reflections that have some apricot overtones. The bouquet is fairly intense, with almost brambly greenish balsamic notes, and underlying vegetal accents -- greenish bitter almond or peach pit -- and some petroleum as well, and sea salt too. On the palate it's ample, and rather languid, with abundant glycerin contributing to the body, and savory mineral acidity that flows into a savory, warm, and fairly balsamic finish that's long and has citric overtones. It's more particular than some, and has something of an old style feeling to it: if you like this in a white wine you will enjoy it, but you have to like the style, which is more balsamic than fresh.
1 star

Azienda Agricola San Quirico Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2004
Lively brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, with sour lemon fruit laced with gunflint and mineral acidity, and there is also some honeysuckle and bitter honey -- a nice combination, and graceful too, in a clearly mature key; if you like mature whites it's quite pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's full and bright, with lively sour lemon fruit supported by lemony acidity and some savory notes, with underlying bitterness that provides definition and flows into a clean sour citric finish; the overall impression is quite pleasant, and it will drink quite well with foods, though if you're like me you might be tempted to sip it far from the table. Very deft.
88-90

Azienda Agricola San Quirico Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2003
Lively brassy yellow with brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of butterscotch and some spice; it brings to mind the summer sun, and heat. On the palate it's ample, with decidedly savory lemon fruit supported by savory accents and bitterness, as well as some minerality though not much in the way of acidity. It's quite interesting, and the sort of wine a wine lover (read wine geek) will enjoy, because it shows very well how Vernaccia reacts to an extreme -- in this case, the hottest summer in many years. How? Rich ripeness of fruit, coupled with softness and a relative lack of acidity. Interesting, but only for those who are seriously into wine; people who simply want a bottle to drink will be much better off with a more recent vintage.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola San Quirico Spumante Brut IGT Bianco Toscana
Pale greenish white with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is moderately intense, with tart apple and savory accents mingled with some greenish notes. Fairly direct. On the palate it's full, and fairly sweet -- a bit sweeter than most bruts --with apple fruit laced with some lemony acidity, and supported by creamy sparkle. Direct, up front, and well suited to a toast or drinking with friends when the wine is not the centerpiece of attention.
1 star


Podere La Castellaccia
Podere La Castellaccia Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish vegetal accents mingled with iodine, some bitterness, and quite bit of chalk - it brings to mind a blackboard eraser. On the palate it's ample, with rich lemon and citron fruit supported by citron acidity and slight greenish accents, which flow into a long citron laced finish with some underlying bitterness. It's laxer than many, and if you like tighter, better defined wines you will perhaps not like it. If you instead prefer a more languid style -- there's quite a bit of acidity, quite enough to keep it from being settled -- it will work well with creamy risotti, white meats from sea or land, and also has sufficient acidity to work well with fried meats or fish and vegetables. In short, a fairly versatile wine in a larger key, and one that will be nice in the summer months as well.
2 stars

Podere la Castellaccia Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2007
Pale brassy white with bright brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is bright, with greenish accents and hints of scalded milk mingled with almond and the heather of a Tuscan field, and also underlying mineral acidity. Nice balance and quite welcoming. On the palate it's rich, with lively lemony fruit supported by brisk lemon-citron acidity and by some savory accents, which flow into a long citron finish. Quite pleasant, and will work well with succulent grilled or roasted fish, and also be a good bet with fried meats and vegetables in the summer months. A little too brightly acidic for creamy dishes, I think, but in the proper setting it will be perfect.
90

Podere La Castellaccia Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2006
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is pleasant, with bright minerality supported by greenish almond and peach pit accents, and by slightly candied citron acidity. Nice balance, and it has quite a bit to say. On the palate it's rich, with lively lemon fruit supported by brisk slightly bitter citron acidity that flows into a long clean citron finish with underlying greenish bitterness. Quite pleasant, and will work very well with rich foods, ranging from creamy risotti through fried meats or fish and vegetables. In short, a vino a tutto pasto, a wine for the whole meal, and it will also age nicely for 5-8 years
88-90

Azienda Agricola Signano
Azienda Agricola Signano Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Pale brassy gold with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish heather and green apricot laced with some bitter almond and peach pit. Nice balance in a rather austere key. On the palate it's ample, with bright lemony fruit that gains direction from lemony citron acidity, and is supported by clean bright minerality, with some underlying bitterness, which flow into a long clean slightly bitter finish. A sunny wine that will drink very well with foods, and work with a variety of things, from creamy pasta and rice dishes through vegetable flans and soufflés, and on through white meats. Versatile, and you may find yourself wanting a second bottle. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Signano Poggiarelli Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with apricot laced reflections and pale rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with lemony accents mingled with greenish heather and hints of scalded milk, with underlying bitterness that's more peach pit than gunflint at present. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich lemony fruit supported by peppery bitterness and by clean lemony acidity that flows into a fairly long slightly bitter lemony finish with greenish overtones. It's pleasant, in a charged key, and will drink nicely now with succulent grilled or roasted fish or white meats, and will also work well with fried meats or fish, though it you have the patience to give it 3-5 years, I think it could do interesting things.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Signano Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2006
Brassy gold with brassy orange reflections and yellow rim. The bouquet is intense, with greenish accents mingled with butterscotch and some cedar, and warmth as well, while there are floral accents that bring a mature Moscato to mind, and also some scalded milk. On the palate it's fairly ric, with bright loquat fruit supported by greenish lemony acidity and by some bitterness and sea salt that flow into a clean bright bitter finish with sour lemon underpinning. A pleasant, mature wine that will drink well with flavorful fish or white meats.
2 stars

Cappella di Sant'Andrea

Cappella di Sant'Andrea Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up greenish accents and bitter almond nutmeats mingled with heather and citron acidity. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bitter citron fruit supported by minerality and some bitterness with savory accents that flows into a clean savory citron finish with underlying gunflint minerality that's fairly long. A good, rather powerful food wine that will work well with flavorful dishes, ranging from grilled salmon through fried meats and vegetables, and will also age nicely for 3-5 years. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Cappella di Sant'Andrea Rialto Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and some greenish highlights. The bouquet is fairly intense, and smoky, with heather and brambly slightly balsamic vegetal notes mingled with bitterness and spice; there are also hops in the mix, which I associate more with an IPA (India pale ale), but work nicely here too. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich lemony fruit supported by gunflint bitterness and bright citron acidity that flow into a clean finish that's fairly long, gradually fading into greenish cedary bitterness. It will work well now with flavorful, creamy dishes -- risotto and pasta are obvious, but, but Welch rarebit also comes to mind -- as well as creamy whit meats or fish, and it will also work well with cried meats and vegetables. In short, versatile in a powerful key, and it will also age well for 3-5 years at least.
2 stars

Fattoria Pietrafitta

Fattoria Pietrafitta Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Clear bottle. The wine is brassy yellow with bright brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is a bit overripe, with honeydew melon mingled with greenish accents and bitter almonds, and as it opens some heather as well. On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with fairly rich languid lemon-citron fruit supported by bitterness and greenish accents, with some almost peppery bitterness and savory underpinning as well. It's pleasant, though in a softer key, and if you like tighter, better defined whites it won't work as well for you. If you do like the style, it will be nice with creamy pasta or rice dishes, and also with vegetable based second course dishes. A touch less tight than I'd want for meats, however.
1 star

Fattoria Pietrafitta Borghetto Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with floral accents -- honeysuckle and some sea salt -- supported by hints of mint and bramble, and some greenish notes as well, and some citrus. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich languid citrus fruit laced with bitterness and minerality that flows into a clean tart rather greenish mineral finish with some gunflint bitterness. It gives an impression of having been harvested quite ripe, but not before acidity fell, and is pleasant to sip and to sniff.
2 stars

Fattoria Pietrafitta la Costa Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2007
Brassy yellow with bright brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is unusual, with sweet minty honeydew melon laced with floral accents -- it brings to mind a Moscato -- and some underlying minerality. Quite distinct from the other wines tasted, and pleasant, but atypical; with swishing herbal accents become stronger, with some bitter almond, but the overall imprint remains the same. On the palate it's bright, with rich loquat fruit supported by bitter minerality and mineral acidity that flows into a fairly long rather tropical finish -pineapple- with underlying bitterness that also displays floral accents I usually associate with Malvasia. It's pleasant, though very much in its own world with respect to the other Vernacce, and if you like the style, which is fairly opulent, fruit driven, and dry, you will enjoy it. If you're of more traditional tastes it won't work as well for you. In short, particular.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola il Lebbio

Azienda Agricola il Lebbio Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Brassy gold with brassy reflections and pale yellow rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up greenish notes mingled with green apricot acidity and bitter almond and peach pit nutmeats. Still quite young. On the palate it's bright, with rich slightly brambly lemony citron fruit supported by bitter tannins that have a certain peach pit to them, and by hints of bramble and balsam that work into a warm rather bitter citron-laced finish. Pleasant, and will complement the foods it's served with; it will work well with flavorful fish, and because of the bitterness I'm tempted to say oysters too, and also with rich white meats, in particular fried foods. It will contribute mightily to either chicken (or rabbit) or fish, and I'd even be tempted o serve it with fried lamb chops.
88-90

Azienda Agricola Il Lebbio Tropie Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is bright, with greenish heather mingled with peach pit bitterness and some green apricot acidity, and also with some sea salt and a fair amount of alcohol. It's quite young, but promises nicely. On the palate it's ample, with considerable bitterness supported by peppery minerality and some spice, which flow into a clean bitter peppery finish with underlying gunflint. Again quite young; one could give it 2-4 years, or drink it now with creamy pasta dishes or risotti, or with fish, and I would be tempted by either oysters or scampi. Expect it to grow with time.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Il Lebbio Malvasia IGT Bianco Toscana 2007
Clear glass bottle. The wine is pale brassy yellow with greenish highlights and brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with citron and greenish vegetal accents mingled with alcohol and some spice. On the palate it's ample, though not as bright as I had expected; there's moderately intense citric fruit overlain by minerality and peppery spice, and the overall impression is a bit settled.
1 star

Montenidoli

Montenidoli Vernaccia Tradizionale Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2007
Brassy gold with brassy golden reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and invites thought, with greenish accents mingled with heather and some nettles, and as it opens sour lemon. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense brambly sour lemon fruit supported by brambly acidity and a fair amount of underlying bitterness that flows into a sour slightly bitter lemon finish with raspy savory tannins from grapes and peppery overtones. It's still coming together and needs another year for the pieces to fall completely into place; this said it's pleasant enough in a fairly alcoholic, strongly extracted key. In short, particular, if you like the style, which draws heavily on concentration, you will like it. If you are more attracted to finesse, you will like it less, though you will still find things to ponder. Because of its power it will work best with flavorful fish or white meats -- I could see it with a curry, for example -- and will also be a good bet with fried foods. Expect it to age nicely for at least 3-5 years.
2 stars

Montenidoli Fiore Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2007
Pale brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, and quite young, with greenish accents and bitter almond laced with some minerality; it gives an impression of being in mid-stride. On the palate it's ample and quite fresh, with fairly rich lemony loquat fruit supported by moderate mineral citric acidity, and by ample rather smoky bitterness with an raspy tannic underpinning that flows into a long brooding bitter tart finish. It's still up in the air, and needs another year at least for the pieces to settle into place. When they do it will be impressive; as it stands today it's like trying to judge a toddler -- this is a problem one encounters more often with reds than whites, but has happened here. This said, it is (quite) drinkable, already, and will work well with succulent white meats from the sea or the land, especially richer, creamier dishes, and I would be tempted to serve it with spiced dishes as well, including curries. Something to enjoy, or to set aside.
2 stars

Montenidoli Carato Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2005
Brassy yellow with brassy golden reflections and pale yellow rim. It's clearly not a 2008, but not as dark as some of the other older wines. The bouquet is delicate, with deft bitter almond supported by some butterscotch and pleasant underlying minerality, while alcohol also provides a nice counterpoint. Quite a bit to say, and very deft wood use, which complements more than overshadowing the grapes. On the palate it's ample, and rich, with powerful lemony fruit laced with minerality and supported by clean deft butterscotch and some cedary bitterness, which flow into a clean bright bitter almond mineral finish that lasts and lasts. Very nice, with a beautiful interplay of acidity and minerality, and will work very well as an aperitif or with elegant fish dishes; I would also be tempted to serve it with white meats, deftly and delicately seasoned so as to not distract from the wine. It will also age nicely for at least 5 years.
90


Teruzzi & Puthod Tenute Sella & Mosca

Teruzzi & Puthod Tenute Sella & Mosca Vigna a Rondolino Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Clear bottle. The wine is pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and slightly greenish brassy highlights fading to white at the rim. The bouquet is rich, with heather and bitter almond laced with some gunflint and peach pit greenness with underlying minerality that brings to mind a hammer-blow to a granitic outcrop (I studied geology at one time). Nice balance, and interesting. On the palate it's ample, with bright, rich citron fruit supported by clean bitterness laced citron acidity and a fair amount of minerality, while the finish is long and tart with a clean greenish underpinning with a fair amount of gunflint bitterness. Quite pleasant, in a rich, powerful key, and while it will age nicely for 3-5 years at least, it will also drink nicely now with succulent grilled white meats or fish
88-90

Teruzzi e Puthod Tenute Sella e Mosca Terre di Tufi IGT Bianco Toscana 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit and gooseberry mingled with some acidity and minerality, and underlying greenish accents and heather. On the palate it's bright, with lively lemony fruit supported by clean sour lemon acidity and some greenish notes that flow into a tart citric finish. Direct, and pleasant, an approachable food wine that will drink well with antipasti, fish, or meat.
2 stars

Fattoria Il Palagio

Fattoria Il Palagio Le Ginestrelle Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Brassy yellow with greenish highlights and brassy reflections. The bouquet is fresh, young and intense, with a fair amount of alcohol, greenish almond skin accents, white pepper, and spice. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich minerality and some underlying sour lemon acidity, also a slight metallic tang, and it flows into a warm sour finish with moderately sour lemon and minerality. Direct, and up front in a slightly muscle-bound key; it will drink well with fish, egg or cheese based antipasti and also be nice with fish or vegetable based pasta or risotto; it has the acidity and minerality to work well with fried meats or fish and vegetables as well.
2 stars

Fattoria Il Palagio Melaia Sauvignon Blanc IGT Bianco Toscana 2008
Pale brassy yellow with greenish reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with gooseberry and a certain airiness, the combination of which brings a sweaty blonde to mind (don't ask), also some vegetal accents and spice. Nice balance and interesting. On the palate it's full, with rich rather languid white berry fruit supported by peppery acidity that has vegetal accents, and flows into a clean tart peppery finish. Pleasant, in an up front and quite approachable key; it will work well as an aperitif with egg or cheese based antipasti, and will also work quite well with all sorts of main dishes, from creamy risotti through fish zesty flavorful fish. You may want a second bottle, and it's worth seeking out if you like the style.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Villa Lucia

Azienda Agricola Villa Lucia Vivaio Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2007
Pale brassy gold with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is powerful, with caramel and greenish crushed peach pit battling, and very green apricot acidity providing support, while there is also a fair amount of alcohol, and as it opens some heather and hints of banana peel. It's one of the more obviously oaky wines poured, and the interaction between Vernaccia's bitter almond and oak's cedar and vanilla is something you will like or not. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich minerality laced with savory accents and warm cedar that flow into a long warm savory finish. Nice control and depth, and if you like the style you will enjoy it, because it has a fair amount to say. But you have to like the style; it will drink well with flavorful, not too fatty fish, or with vegetarian entrees that aren't too boisterous.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Rubicini
Tel 0577 944 816

Azienda Agricola Rubiconi Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and yellow rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with citric accents -- more citron than lemon -- supported by greenish brambly spice and some savory notes as well that add a haunting quality o it. Nice balance. On the palate it's rich, with lively citron fruit that gains support from some bitter almond bitterness, and from slightly brambly tannins that flow into a clean bright citric finish with savory underpinning. It's, well, the word enthusiastic comes to mind, and it will drink quite well with flavorful entrees, ranfing from grilled salmon or tuna fish though fried chicken with fried vegetables, and it will also age nicely for a number of years. Powerful but well defined. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Rubicini Etherea Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and slight greenish highlights. The bouquet is fairly intense, and decidedly mineral, with some smoky accents and hints of bramble as well. On the palate it's decidedly mineral, with powerful mineral acidity supported by some bitterness, and by savory mineral acidity that flows into a clean fairly fresh, bright savory finish that's long. And has some smoky accents. A pleasant wine that will drink well with fish or cheese based antipasti, and will also work well with fish dishes, ranging from pasta and risotto through grilled. It will also age nicely for 3-5 years.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Rubicini Horos Vendemmia Tardiva IGT Bianco Toscana 2006
Brassy gold with greenish accents and reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with hints of sweetness mingled with heather and some lactic acid, also hints of dried apricot and slight butterscotch. On the palate it's ample and sweet, with fairly bright loquat fruit laced with bitter greenness and supported by deft loquat acidity, while the finish is clean and tempers sweetness with some bitter accents. It's pleasant enough, though to be quite honest I didn't find it as interesting as I might find a Vinsanto. A different expression of San Gimignano's Vernaccia, and interesting (to me as a wine lover) because it's different, but I think there are other grapes better suited to this technique.
2 stars

A bit more about San Gimignano and Vernaccia di San Gimignano:

The Consorzio della Denominazione San Gimignano's Site
A Vernaccia Vertical: An extraordinary day at Montenidoli
Thoughts about older Italian whites in general

And finally:
La Città delle Belle Torri, An Itinerary of San Gimignano