The 2005 vintage, and things were difficult. As was true in much of the rest of central/northern Italy, the 2005 summer was cool and damp in Piemonte too, and as a result the grapes didn't ripen as well as they might have given more sun and less damp; the problem was compounded by a 10 days of rain during the harvest, from October 3 to 13th, and several producers told me that what they managed to harvest before the 3rd became Barolo, while what they harvested after either became Nebbiolo d'Alba or went to the bottlers. Others smiled as they said that upon hearing the weather report, they went out, started to pick, and didn't stop until it was all in.
Given the climatic situation, the results are what one might expect: Most of the 2005 Barolos are weaker than the 2004s poured last year, and within this framework there are also wines made from grapes picked after the rains began. I'm not saying to avoid them; quite the contrary, because I very much enjoyed some of the wines, which are graceful and elegant in a cool weather key. But it is a vintage that should be approached with care, and when purchasing the wines you should keep in mind that it probably will not be a long-lived vintage.
In other words, you're primarily looking for wines to drink now, or at the most within 3-5 years. Not wines to set aside for an important occasion in the future.
One important general observation I would like to make is that the pendulum continues to swing back towards the traditionalist (for want of a better term) camp; new French oak continues to be less apparent than it once was, and this is especially important for the 2005 Barolo, some of which would have been extremely oaky had it been made a few years ago, because producers would have added wood to compensate for Nature's stinginess. Now, they seem to have decided to leave well enough alone, and I commend them for it; the wines, while not as powerful, are better balanced, more graceful, and more pleasant to drink.
Last thing: In addition to pouring the current vintage, the producers poured (later in the afternoons, after the tasting sessions) bottles of their 1999 vintages, and these were quite interesting. Some very impressive wines, and I was impressed by the almost universal high quality. Granted, I was selecting what I tasted (20-30 producers were pouring each afternoon, more than I could work through well), but even so I would have expected a few wines to stumble. They didn't.
Quite the contrary, the 1999s of a number of winemakers whose current vintages didn't impress me impressed me very much. In other words, while some Barolo immediately shows its potential, other wines are slow off the block, coming into own only after years of bottle age. Ugly ducklings, if you will, and this is something to keep in mind. Barolo needs time, and even what wasn't too impressive in youth can undergo spellbinding transformations. It is worth noting that this is especially true of wines made in the more traditional style, with longer fermentation and maceration times, and aging in large oak casks rather than barriques.
The wines appear in the order they were poured in in the mornings, and you will also find tasting notes from afternoon visits included.
The Wines
Francesco Rinaldi
Francesco Rinaldi e Figli Cannubbio Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with dusky cedar and spice, also some warmth. Not much fruit. But hardwood ash. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by sweet tannins that do have a greenish cedar overlay, and flow into a warm, tart, savory finish. It's clearly from a cooler wetter vintage, but does display pleasing elegance and grace.
2 stars
Tasted in the afternoon:
Francesco Rinaldi Brunate Barolo 1999
Deep brownish almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is smoky, with some nose tingling spice and moderate fruit, and underlying leafy underbrush. Not as deft as some. On the palate it's ample, bright, and fairly soft, with clean fairly bright berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins. It's not tired, but has reached its peak and is either holding or has begun to decline. In short, should you come across a bottle, enjoy it now, because it's still a fine wine, but I owuldn't hold it longer.
2 stars
Barale Fratelli
Barale Fratelli Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is dusky, with moderate sour berry fruit and wood smoke, also some spice and licorice root. On the palate it's ample, with rather sweet berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that gain direction from some deft berry fruit acidity, and flow into a clean fairly bright tart finish. Pleasant enough in a lesser vintage key; it will drink nicely with succulent grilled meats, and also has the legs to age well for a decade or more.
2 stars
Barale Fratelli Castellero Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some spice and hints of hardwood ash. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and rather sweet, with soft berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and by cedar laced tannins that flow into a warm tart finish. It's lax, and a bit settled, and young to be in this condition.
1 star
Tasted in the afternoon:
Fratelli Barale Castellero Barolo 1999
Almandine with orange in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich in a smoky key, with savory accents and spice, with some underlying cedar as well. It's a bit settled, and more bitter than bracing. On the palate it's ample and rich, with cherry fruit supported by smooth cedar-laced tannins and warmth. It's pleasant to drink, but has clearly peaked and though I did find it graceful I didn't find it quite as exciting as some of the other 99s.
2 stars
Brezza Giacomo e Figli
Brezza G. e Figli Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2005
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some sour berry fruit supported by spice and some cedar, also savory accents and wood smoke. On the palate it's ample, with soft cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly tart finish. Pleasant enough, in a softer key, and will drink nicely with grilled meats or roasts. Not a wine to age for long, but pleasant to drink.
2 stars
Brezza G. e Figli Sarmassa Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish accents mingled with spice and some sour berry fruit, though what really emerges is the greenish spice. On the palate it's fairly rich, with clean bright sour cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish; it's richer than many, and will drink well with simple roasts or stews. It also has the legs to age well for 5-10 years.
2 stars
Cascina Adelaide
Cascina Adelaide Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is rustic, with balsamic notes and stable straw supported by considerable acidity. Angry, and not much fruit. On the palate it's bright, with greenish petroleum laced sour cherry fruit supported by greenish acidity and sweet tannins. Quite old style, and also reflects the difficulties posed by the vintage. If you like the style you will like it, but you have to like the style.
1 star
Cascina Adelaide Preda Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is smoky, with some balsamic notes and hints of petroleum. Not much fruit, but there is cedar. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with greenish berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and clean greenish acidity that flows into a deft clean berry fruit finish. It's very much a child of a weak vintage, but does display a certain pleasing grace, and also has the capacity to age nicely for 3-5 years at least.
2 stars
Cascina Adelaide Per Elen Barolo Riserva DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, and hot, with considerable leather mingled with warmth and spice, and some greenish accents. On the palate it's ample and rich, with fairly bright sour cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins, while there is ample acidity that provides a counterpoint to peppery spice, and it all flows into a clean fairly tart peppery finish. Nice balance, and much more interesting on the palate than I expected form the nose, it will drink well with succulent red meats, especially fattier roasts that will benefit from the acidity and peppery tannins, and will also age well for many years. If you like the style, which is fairly traditional, you will enjoy it.
2 stars
Damilano
Damilano Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some spice and alcohol, but not much fruit. Hints of cedar, rather. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by warmth and cedary laced tannins that flow into a greenish cedary finish. It's clearly a cool weather wine, and there isn't as much fruit as there would be in a better year.
1 star
Damilano Liste Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with rosa canina and some nutmeg mingled with spice and hints of sweetness. Nice balance in a lesser vintage key. On the palate it's ample, with smooth rich cherry fruit supported by graceful berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that work from below the surface, flowing into a warm sour berry fruit finish. It's an ample wine, and rather soft, but moves gracefully, and will also age well for at least 5-10 years. A nice expression of the vintage.
2 stars
E. Pira e Figli
E. Pira e Figli Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar and hints of white glue but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with soft berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by smooth sweet cedar laced tannins. It's rather lax, and I found myself wishing for greater tightness, but it is in keeping with the vintage.
1 star
Tasted in the afternoon:
Chiara Boschis Cannubi Barolo 1999
From a magnum: Almandine with bright black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with smoky slightly dried cherry fruit supported by cedar and dusky accents. Quite rich, and very pleasant. On the palate it's ample and quite bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by smooth bright berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that display the classic steely velvet of Nebbiolo, and flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Very young yet (being in a magnum helps), and it's more of a food wine than a meditation wine -- the brightness and acidity are such that it really begs an accompaniment.
90-91
Gianni Gagliardo
Gianni Gagliardo Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense and vinous, with spice and some, but not much berry fruit, and peppery nose tingling acidity as well. On the palate it's richer than the nose suggests, with pleasant rather soft cherry fruit supported by graceful berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a bright berry fruit finish. Pleasant in a lesser vintage key, and still quite young; I would give the nose another year or two and then drink it with a steak or roast, though it does have the legs to age well for up to a decade. Worth seeking out.
2 stars
Gianni Gagliardo Serre Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with pronounced cedary notes mingled with spice and nose tingling acidity; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by sour plum acidity, and by smooth soft well polished tannins that flow into a fairly bright greenish finish. It's not overripe, but is soft, in a fairly acidic key, with the tannins from oak stepping in more than they would in a richer vintage. This said, if you like bigger softer wines that do have a tart component it will work well with grilled meats, but you have to like the style. I might give it a year to develop the nose, but don't think it will age for much more than 5-8.
1 star
Marchesi di Barolo
Marchesi di Barolo Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with chocolate and cocoa mingled with alcohol, but not much fruit. Some greenish spicy notes and petroleum, however. On the palate it's ample, with moderate generic cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a cedary burr and flow into a warm cedary finish. I'd have liked greater depth to the fruit, which is surrendering to wood.
1 star
Marchesi di Barolo Sarmassa Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep -- very dark -- black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with tart berry fruit laced with green apricot greenness and supported by moderate acidity and spice, also some hints of white glue that are wood fruit interaction. On the palate it's ample and rich, with clean fairly powerful red berry fruit supported by smooth sweet nutmeg laced tannins that flow into a clean fairly rich finish, with some sweet accents. It's a child of the vintage, with the limitations attached thereto, this said it does display pleasing grace, and will drink nicely with foods.
2 stars
Tasted in the afternoon:
Marchesi di Barolo Cannubi 1999
Deep cherry ruby with ruby rim. The bouquet is deft, with goudron and rosa canina mingled with warmth, spice, and a fair amount of alcohol. Nice balance in a powerful, muscular key. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful red berry fruit supported by lively sour berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long bright tart finish. Quite rich and quite young yet; it will drink very well with grilled red meats (steak, in particular) or roasts now, and will continue to climb for many more years.
90-91
Michele Chiarlo
Michele Chiarlo Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with soft sour berry fruit supported by some balsamic accents and nutmeg spice, also some greenish notes and hints of cedar. On the palate it's ample and soft, with warm slightly sour cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that settle into the floor, as it were, while direction comes from fairly bright sour cherry acidity. It's soft, and this is the vintage. It does have a fair amount of acidity, however, and I would be tempted to give it 2-3 years to get its bearings and develop. But not much more than that.
1 star
Michele Chiarlo Cerequio Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and a bit pungent, with wet leather and some balsamic accents mingled with sea salt and some peppery spice. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by slight acidity, and by ample very smooth sweet tannins; the finish is more of the same, and I found it to be settled, especially considering its youth, and wonder how long it will age for.
1 star
Poderi Luigi Einaudi
Poderi Luigi Einaudi Nei Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some spice and floral accents. Not much else. On the palate it's moderately intense, with lax berry fruit supported by bright acidity and tannins that have a greenish cedar underlay and flow into a warm fairly tart finish. The palate is marginally more interesting than the nose, though the overall impression is one of directness.
1 star
Poderi Luigi Einaudi Costa Grimaldi Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish notes mingled with leafy accents and some sweet jammy notes and spice -- nutmeg; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and full, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Pleasant in a lesser vintage key, and will drink well with foods; it's not a great wine but shows that even in off years those who work well get results.
2 stars
Luciano Sandrone
Luciano Sandrone Cannubi Boschis Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry raspberry fruit that is laced with hints of sweetness, white glue, and spice, a combination that brings -- in an odd way -- detergent to mind. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich, soft cherry raspberry fruit supported by smooth sweet cedar laced tannins, while there is also a cheeky acidity that provides direction and leads into the finish. It's not typical of Barolo, but is rather a response to the vintage This said, it is pleasant, and will drink well with simple roasts or stews, and will also age 5-10 years. I'm not sure how much further.
2 stars
Luciano Sandrone Le Vigne Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with jammy vegetal berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by pleasant peppery (the vegetable) notes as well, which add depth. On the palate it's full and rich, with fairly powerful cherry and forest berry fruit supported by bright acidity, and by tannins that have a peppery burr to them now, but that will smooth nicely with time. Pleasant, and will drink well with roasts or stews; one of the nicer wines poured in this series of 2005 Baroli.
2 stars
Tasted in the afternoon:
Luciano Sandrone Le Vigne Barolo 1999
Dusky almandine with black reflections and brownish almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright cedary bitterness and hardwood ash supported by moderately intense spice; there's not that much fruit. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by bright acidity, and by warm peppery spice that flows into a fairly tannic finish. It's a bit more settled than some of the others, though it does display considerable depth and elegance: wood has polished it, and as a result there's not as much richness to it. I wouldn't hold it much longer, though it is quite drinkable now.
2 stars
Virna Borgogno
Virna Borgogno Cannubi Boschis Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is unusual, with greenish mentholated notes mingled with sandalwood, eucalyptus, and berry fruit -- an abundance of wood fruit interaction, I suspect. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate generic berry fruit supported by tart acidity and by smooth cedar laced tannins that flow into a clean tart finish. Very much a child of the vintage.
1 star
Virna Borgogno Preda Sarmassa Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with quite a bit of cedar mingled with wood smoke and spice, and also fair nutmeg. On the palate it's ample, soft, and smooth, with frankly generic fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that owe something to oak, and by mineral acidity that flows into a clean fairly sweet vanilla-laced finish.
1 star
Virna Borgogno Barolo Riserva DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry plum fruit with prune overtones and some spice, mingled with a fair amount of alcohol. Hot weather wine. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright cherry plum fruit supported by bright peppery cedar laced tannins and greenish berry fruit acidity that flow into a warm berry fruit finish. It's clearly hot weather -- the prune is quite evident -- and has some savory accents as well; because of its aggressiveness it will drink well in the near term with succulent red meats, and it will also age, though I'm not sure for how long. Or how well. It is a child of the vintage.
2 stars
Tasted in the afternoon:
Virna Preda Sarmassa Barolo Riserva 1999
From a magnum: Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with rich leathery berry fruit supported by clean fresh rosa canina and dried flowers, also by spice and hints of hardwood ash. Quite nice. On the palate it's full, and rich, with clean bright sour berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that have some leathery overtones coupled with a peppery burr, and flow into a clean bright sour berry fruit finish. Graceful, and will drink very well with hearty red meats, either roasted or stewed. It will also be long lived.
88-90
Boroli
Boroli Cerequio Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is deft, with rosa canina and some Moroccan leather mingled with spice and hints of plum, but not much else in the way of fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that are again quite soft, working from below the surface, and by moderate mineral acidity. It's very much a child of the vintage and soft too; I'd have liked greater brightness to the acidity than I found.
1 star
Boroli Villero Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some berry fruit supported by leather and graphite shaving bitterness. Fairly direct, in a cool vintage key. On the palate it's ample and soft, with cherry plum fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are fairly smooth, with hints of silkiness to them, but not much else. It's not overripe, and this is a plus, but also lax, and a bit settled; it will age well for a couple of years, but certainly not for long.
1 star
Bric Cenciurio
Bric Cenciurio Costa di Rose Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rustic, with considerable stable straw mingled with wet horse and savory balsamic notes. Not much fruit, though there is some greenness. On the palate it's ample and green,, with fairly bright sour berry fruit laced with greenish spice and supported by bright greenish acidity, also by tannins that have a peppery burr and flow into a warm greenish finish. It's green, something Nebbiolo can do in an off year, and given this, if you like the style does have something to say. But you have to like the style and keep the caveats in mind.
2 stars
Bric Cenciurio Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with quite a bit of cedar mingled with pungent spice and some petroleum. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense generic red berry fruit supported by bitter cedar laced tannins and spice, also by fairly bright mineral acidity. Direct, and a child of the vintage.
1 star
Tasted in the afternoon:
Bric Cenciurio Costa di Rose Barolo 1999
From a magnum: Fairly deep ruby with almandine rim and black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar and some dusky notes mingled with warmth and berry fruit. The oak is evident, and apparent on the palate too, which is smooth and ample with fairly rich berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and cedar-laced tannins that flow into a cedary finish. Oak has capped the wine, and though it's pleasant to drink, it has reached its peak. I wouldn't keep it longer.
2 stars
Grimaldi Giacomo
Grimaldi Giacomo Le Coste Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with savory cedar and sawdust mingled with some warmth. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and smoky, with moderately intense generic berry fruit supported by rather lax tannins and some mineral acidity that flows into a rather pungent finish with leathery overtones. It's settled, and suffers the vintage.
1 star
Grimaldi Giacomo Sotto il Castello di Novello Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with considerable cedar mingled with greenish petroleum accents and some spice. Quite a bit of cedar, and not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense generic berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by moderately intense berry fruit acidity; it's fairly direct, and pleasant in a fairly simple key.
1 star
Germano Angelo
Germano Angelo Vigna Rué Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rustic, with balsamic notes and saddle leather mingled with stable straw and savory warmth. On the palate it's ample and rather sweet, with moderately intense frankly generic cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm savory finish. Direct, and fairly simple; and in this a child of the vintage.
1 star
Bergadano Cav. Enrico
Bergadano Cav. Enrico Sarmassa Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is spicy, with greenish accents and some berry fruit, though not too much. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich greenish berry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Direct, and unassuming, but does have a certain grace, in a lesser vintage key.
2 stars
Bergadano Cav. Enrico Sarmassa Barolo Riserva DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is smoky, with considerable alcohol and some spice, mingled with leather and warmth. A bit disjointed. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright berry fruit supported by fiery tannins that flow into a bright very peppery tannic finish. The child of a hot vintage, displaying the stridency that heat can bring; it brings to mind a person who has been goosed, and is reacting loudly.
1 star
Scarzello Giorgio
Scarzello Giorgio Vigna Merenda Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is balsamic, with warmth and some nutmeg spice; the overall impression is fairly graceful. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet Moroccan leather laced tannins, and by deft sour mineral acidity that flow into a clean fresh tannic finish with a degree of cedar in the underpinning. It's direct, and soft, and not really what a Barolo should be, but does display a certain grace.
1 star
Scarzello Giorgio Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with rich cherry fruit supported by greenish accents and spice, there's also elegant rosa canina, and it's very pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's rich, and full, with powerful cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by acidity that's a touch less bright than it might have been in a better vintage, but is very much present, and flows into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant, and a beautiful expression of a difficult vintage; it's approachable now and will drink well for a decade or more.
2 stars
Tasted in the afternoon:
Scarzello Vigna Merenda Barolo 1999
From magnum; it's almandine with some orange in the rim. The bouquet is rich and delicate, with rosa canina and warmth mingled with nutmeg and spice. Nice balance and quite graceful, with many facets. On the palate it's full and rich, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by bright sour berry fruit acidity and smooth peppery tannins that flow into a clean fresh bright berry fruit finish. Very pleasant and tremendously alive -- the magnum helps with this; it will work very well with succulent meats now, and will also age well for a decade or more.
92
Rinaldi Giuseppe
Rinaldi Giuseppe Cannubi San Lorenzo - Ravera Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish accents and some spice mingled with hints of white glue and green leather, and also with some savory notes. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins. Graceful in a lesser vintage lacy sort of way, and will age nicely for 5-8 years, though I wouldn't keep it much beyond that.
2 stars
Rinaldi Giuseppe Brunate - Le Coste Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is frankly oaky, with cedar and some sweetness mingled with greenish accents and some spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, and bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by brighter than expect berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are smooth, with a sweet slightly cedary overlay, and flow into a fairly tart finish. Pleasant in a lesser vintage key, and will drink nicely with roasts or stews.
2 stars
Tasted in the afternoon:
Rinaldi Giuseppe Vigna le Coste Barolo 1999
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful and dusky, with balsamic notes and pungency mingled with spice and hints of menthol and hardwood ash. Nice balance and still young, in a traditional key. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful sour cherry fruit supported by smooth velvety tannins that flow into a clean fresh sour berry fruit finish. Quite nice, with much to say; it will drink very well with succulent red meats now, and will also age well for many more years.
92-3
Roberto Sarotto
Roberto Sarotto Audace Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit rustic, with balsamic notes mingled with stable straw and savory accents, also some acidity, and a greenish overlay. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that gain direction from bright berry fruit acidity, and flow into a clean fresh berry balsamic berry fruit finish. It's fresh, in a fairly traditional key, and if you like the style will work well with succulent red meats. It will also age nicely for 5-8 years.
2 stars
Sebaste
Sebaste Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish jammy accents mingled with berry fruit and spice mingled with hits of petroleum. Nice balance in a cool vintage key. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright plum finish. It's pleasant, in a slightly softer weak vintage key, and has quite a bit to say; it will drink well with grilled meats or light stews, and will also age well for 5-8 years at least.
2 stars
Sebaste Barolo Riserva DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and leathery, with warmth and spice, and fair greenish accents. On the palate it's fairly direct, with rich red berry fruit supported by moderately intense berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that have peppery accents, and flow into a clean peppery finish. It is a child of the vintage, with the warmth and spiciness that comes with extreme heat, but will as a result of them drink well with succulent stews or hearty roasts. Not something to drink far form the table, or when one wants elegance and balance. With few exceptions, 2003 didn't give either.
1 star
Cantina Bartolo Mascarello
Cantina Bartolo Mascarello Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is muted; swishing brings up some spice and some alcohol, and more swishing also cherry plum fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a warm cedary burr and flow into a clan berry fruit finish. Pleasant in a cool vintage key, and will drink nicely with red meats or light stews, and also has the legs to age for 8-10 years. Worth seeking out, especially if you're more traditionally minded.
2 stars
Tasted in the afternoon:
Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 1999
Delicate almandine with orange in the rim. The bouquet is elegant, with fairly rich balsam-laced red berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity. Quick to write, but beautiful balance and harmony. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful red berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight leathery feel to them, and flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Very nice, and quite young; it's quite drinkable now, but will reward those blessed with the patience to give it longer.
91-2
Famiglia Anselma
Famiglia Anselma Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish berry fruit supported by bright jammy accents and berry fruit acidity; nice balance. On the palate it's full and smooth, with rich berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by slightly greenish berry fruit acidity; it's pleasant in a fairly traditional key and will drink nicely with succulent grilled meats. Worth seeking out.
2 stars
Prunotto
Prunotto Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with leathery accents and some balsam, and also a fair amount of alcohol. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, soft, and moderately rich, with generic cherry fruit supported by dusky acidity and by ample smooth sweet tannins that work from below the surface, flowing into a clean fairly tart berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. It's a bit soft, and smooth in a fairly international key, but will drink nicely with foods, and has the capacity to age well for 3-5 years.
2 stars
Prunotto Bussia Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with some pungent spicy notes mingled with red berry fruit and hints of wood glue; there are also vegetal accents and it gives an impression of being in mid stride. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by lively sour cherry-currant acidity, alcohol, and by tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a clean bright finish. The palate is ahead of the nose, and assuming the nose follows the palate it will develop into a pleasingly zesty, rather cheeky wine in young adulthood, and also age well for 10-15 years. In short, something to think about for tomorrow, because it's very much unready today.
2 stars
Abbona Marziano
Abbona Marziano Ravera Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents mingled with spice and some bell pepper notes. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by warmth and cedar laced spice that flow into a warm savory berry fruit finish with cedary tannic underpinning.
1 star
Abbona Marziano Pressenda Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim; quite charged. The bouquet is intense, with rich tart berry fruit supported by bright slightly greenish cedar with underlying spice and warmth, also dusky shadow. On the palate it's ample, and rich, in a rather languorous key, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are warm and savory, and flow into a fairly tart dusky berry fruit finish with savory tannic underpinning with some menthol. It's not as monolithic as some, but rather has a lanky grace to it, in a somewhat lighter key, and could do interesting things with time, becoming lacy and ethereal over the years. It made me think.
2 stars
Elvio Cogno
Elvio Cogno Ravera Barolo DOCG 2005
Elegant ruby with almandine rim, and black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit supported by clean warm moderate acidity, with some cedar, underbrush, and some leather, and, as it opens, mint. Nice balance, and pleasant in a cool vintage key. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful red berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and dusky tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Deft, with bright acidity that holds it up, while the tannins are peppery and quite young. It will age well for a decade or perhaps more, though it will not be really long lived. In terms of accompaniments, drink it with grilled meats or stews. Worth seeking out if you like this style.
2 stars
In the afternoon:
I visited Elvio Cogno the first time I went to Piemonte, and have made a point of returning to see Nadia and Walter (Elvio's daughter and son-in-law) when I can. This time I went with Filippo Bartolotta, and our chatting and tasting made for a very pleasant couple of hours after our morning tasting session.
Elvio Cogno Anas-Cëtta Langhe Doc Bianco 2008
Nascetta is an autochthonous white varietal that was once grown in the Langhe. However, when Nadia and Walter decided to plant it they discovered it had not just vanished from the vineyards, but also from memory: when the Authorities heard about it, they demanded it be ripped out, because -- even though it was autochthonous -- it was not among the varietals approved for planting by the Province of Cuneo. They held on, and now other producers of Langa are beginning to experiment with it too. Much to our benefit, because it is potentially more interesting, I think, than the Arneis grown in Roero. It also has good aging potential; they recently held a vertical going back to the 1996 vintage, which had held up very well.
Returning to 2008: Brassy gold with greenish highlights and brassy green reflections. Beautiful bouquet with rich floral accents -- Nascetta is an aromatic grape -- mingled with tropical fruit, honeysuckle, spice, and honey, with underlying minerality that provides direction and foundation. On the palate it's full and rich, with clean bright citric fruit supported by bright minerality and savory accents, and also hints of petroleum. Very pleasant, with a great lot to say, and versatile too. Nadia said that in Japan it's quite popular with sushi, and I can see why.
88-90
Elvio Cogno Barolo Vigna Elena 2004
Ravera is a blend of the Lampa and Michet cultivars of Nebbiolo; Vigna Elena is Nibbiolo Rosé in purezza. The vineyard was planted in 1991, the year their daughter Elena was born, and she drew the label when she was little. It spends 3 years in large wood, and is only made in good vintages. Deep almandine with brownish black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful and elegant, with rich leathery berry fruit supported by spice from grapes, some goudron, savory accents, lively red currant acidity, and a deft overshadowing of spice. Quite nice and very clean. On the palate it's very young, with rich, full berry fruit supported by def savory acidity and smooth sweet tannins that are showing hints of velvet, and flow into a clean berry fruit finish with sour berry fruit acidity and spice that lasts and lasts. Very young and very nice, one could drink it now if one wanted to, but it will age beautifully for many, many years. Rock-like solidity and tremendous character, most impressive.
92-3
We also tasted something new:
Barolo Bricco Pernice 2005
This is from a new vineyard, and is dedicated to Elvio Cogno, who is doubtless as pleased with the label -- Elena is putting her talents to use, studying graphic design -- as he is with what's in the bottle. The wine is deep almandine with black reflections and white rim. Rich bouquet with powerful spice and warmth mingled with bitterness and leather, and some wood smoke too. Quite austere, and comes across, with respect to the others, as being reserved. Young, too like a toddler who doesn't want to be awakened. On the palate it's rich and full, with powerful berry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and tannins that have an angry peppery burr and flow into a clean, fresh, very astringent finish. It's one of the finest 2005 Barolos I've had, but needs time. Quite a bit, two years or perhaps more, and it will age well for many thereafter. The future will be beautiful, and well worth waiting for.
2 stars
Piazzo Armando
Piazzo Armando Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with rosa canina, red berry fruit and some nutmeg mingled with green leather and pleasant spice; nice balance. On the palate it's ample and rich, in a softer key, with fairly bright berry fruit supported by bright slightly greenish acidity and smooth sweet tannins that have a cedary underpinning, and flow into a bright fairly tart finish. Pleasant, in a cool weather key, with a fair amount of tartness that will give the wine some life; I'd expect it to age well for up to a decade and perhaps a little more.
2 stars
Fratelli Serio e Battista Borgogno
Fratelli Serio e Battista Borgogno Cannubi Barolo Riserva DOCG 2003
Leathery almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is warm and quite alcoholic, with spice and acidity, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and bright, with lively sour berry fruit supported by considerable warmth and by clean sweet tannins that have savory accents, while direction comes from fairly bright acidity that flow s into a clean bright berry fruit finish. Pleasant, and much less heat struck than many 20'03 wines; it will drink well with roasts or stews, and has the wherewithal to age nicely for many years.
2 stars
Borgogno Giacomo e Figli
Borgogno Giacomo e Figli Barolo Riserva DOCG 2003
Fairly deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with leathery warmth and moderate acidity supported by nose tingling spice; there's not much fruit but the overall impression is harmonious, in a hot weather key. On the palate it's full, with bright, spicy berry fruit supported by smooth sweet spicy tannins that flow into a fairly long warm finish. It's not really heat struck, though it does have that register to it. It will drink well with foods, succulent steaks and hearty roasts, though the anger of the tannins is such that it won't work well drunk far from the table. Disjointed, and this is a hot summer at work.
2 stars
Tasted in the afternoon:
Giacomo Borgogno Barolo Riserva 1999
Almandine with almandine rim and some orange in the nail. The bouquet is rich, with bright balsamic acidity mingled with greenish accents and spice; there's also clean fresh berry fruit acidity. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's full and rich, with elegant sour berry fruit supported by bright sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a hot peppery burr and flow into a long greenish finish. Elegant in a zesty and very much alive key, and will drink very well with foods, though it's a little too bright for sipping.
88-90
Camerano Vittorio
Camerano Vittorio Barolo Riserva DOCG 2003
Dusky almandine with black reflections and almandine rim fading to brown. The bouquet is fairly intense, with spice and nutmeg mingled with quite bit of alcohol and a fair amount of cedar; there's not much in the way of fruit. On the palate it's bright and full, with considerable warmth and moderate berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have an angry cedary peppery burr, and flow into a warm tannic finish. It's a child of a hot vintage, and as such has all the limitations of same. A bit angry, not much acidity, and the wood the wine was put into steps in to carry it forward.
1 star
Tasted in the afternoon:
Camerano Barolo 1999
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with savory balsamic acidity supported by leaf tobacco and warmth, and also some saddle leather. Fine balance in a traditional key. On the palate it's ample and rich, with clean bright berry fruit -- cherry with hints of raspberry -- supported by deft berry fruit acidity that still has some raspberry freshness to it, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean deft finish. Quite nice, displaying terrific finesse in a decidedly traditional key, and will drink very well with succulent red meats; it's also a wine to enjoy far from the table with like-minded friends, and will age very well for many more years.
92-3
Filippo Bartolotta and I were very much impressed by Camerano's 1999 Barolo, and paid a visit to the winery the next afternoon.
Founded in 1875, Camerano is the second oldest Barolo producer in the Comune of Barolo. The winery is located in the heart of town, and is small. They have 10 hectares of land, 6 of which are planted with Nebbiolo da Barolo, 1 with Barbera, and 1 with Dolcetto. Fermentation is traditional; the Barolo undergoes 20-25 days of maceration on the skins following fermentation, and then goes into large (30-50 hectoliter) Slavonian oak casks. The Barbera also goes into oak, again, large, but French. The Dolcetto is in steel.
Camerano Dolcetto D'Alba 2008
Lot DA08
Deep pigeon blood ruby with violet rim. The bouquet is rich, and fruit driven, with strawberry and black cherry fruit supported by peppery accents and bitter notes. Quite nice. On the palate it's full and rich, with lively berry fruit supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity that flows into a bright, tart berry fruit finish. A fine food wine that will go very well with grilled meats and light stews, and also be a good choice for cookouts or picnics. A delight to drink.
2 stars
Camerano Barbera D'Alba 2007
Lot LBA07
Lively almandine cherry ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with deft berry fruit supported by spice, alcohol, and some peach peel, with underlying cedar that supports. On the palate it's full, with clean rich red berry fruit supported by sweetness -- not residual sugar, but sweetness of fruit -- that confers roundness, while the acidity is marked, but not domineering. Rather, it provides deft direction, while the tannins are smooth and cedar laced, flowing into a clean fresh rich sweet berry fruit finish. Chewy and rich, a fruit driven wine that's quite nice, and has a great deal to say. It will drink beautifully with succulent red meats, and also with grilled white meats. Eminently enjoyable.
90-91
They make two Barolos.
- Barolo Camerano, with a gold label, is a blend of their vineyards. Some of the vines that go into the basic Camerano are planted on sandy soils, which confer exceptional aromas, while others instead grow on more compact soils that supply structure.
- Camerano Barolo Cannubi San Lorenzo is a vineyard selection. Fermentation is in cement, followed by a brief period in steel before wood. The malolactic fermentation occurs naturally, when it wants.
We tasted the 2005 and 2004 vintages:
2005 Barolo Camerano Gold Label
Delicate pinkish ruby. Elegant floral nose with deft red berry fruit supported by dusky underbrush and pungency. Quite nice, inviting repeated sniffs, and also very young. On the palate it's ample, smooth, and soft, with powerful sour berry fruit supported by warmth and smooth soft tannins that flow into a clean fresh warm berry fruit finish supported by alcohol and spice. Beautiful and very fresh, with nice depth, though the softness of the 2005 vintage is evident. It will age nicely for a decade, perhaps more.
2 stars
Camerano Barolo Cannubi San Lorenzo 2005
A deeper garnet than the Barolo Camerano, it's deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, though behind with respect to the Gold Label, with berry fruit supported by greenish accents, spice, and leather. Very young; it's like a sleeping toddler who really doesn't want to be disturbed. Needs time. On the palate it's full and rich, and again very young, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by warm splintery tannins that flow into a clean fresh finish. It's more austere than the Gold Label, and needs more time; I also found it to be more severe than its sibling, and think it will perhaps surpass it, though perhaps not -- 2005 does influence the wine.
Barolo Camerano 2004
Deft almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with red berry fruit supported by slight balsamic accents and clean fresh leather. Great depth in a fresh fairly fruity key, with a lot to say in impressive harmony. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and warm leathery acidity that flow into a clean warm finish. Very fresh, bright, and frankly impressive, with beautiful balance between sweetness of fruit and savory accents, and is at the beginning of a long steady climb. There's a richness here that's simply absent from the 2005. Very nice.
90-92
Camerano Barolo Cannubi San Lorenzo 2004
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim; it's slightly more almandine than the Gold Label. The bouquet is quite elegant, displaying greater finesse than the Gold, with deft violets mingled with rosa canina, which is beginning to emerge, and some greenish leather that adds very pleasant depth. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful berry fruit supported by clean bright mineral acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly bright, fairly long finish. It's a little behind on the palate with respect to the Gold Label, and though it does display great finesse needs more time. Camerano is more approachable, and Cannubi is more reserved, and this makes perfect sense. In the long run -- 10-15 years -- Cannubi will certainly emerge, and distance its sibling, but that is for the future. Now, it's very good, but needs more time.
88-90
Bovio Gianfranco
Bovio Gianfranco Vigna Arborina Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is dusky, with warmth and some cedar, mingled with alcohol and some spice with mentholated accents. Fairly graceful, though not as deft as I might have liked. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense sour berry fruit supported by a fair amount of acidity, and by warm cedar laced tannins that flow into a fairly long very dry hot tannic finish. An angry young man, and it needs a couple of years to come together. Expect it to age well for a decade.
1 star
Bovio Gianfranco Vigna Gattera Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with dusky leather mingled with some balsamic notes and savory accents; it's pleasantly balanced in a cool weather key. On the palate it's ample and fairly sweet, with moderately bright plum cherry fruit -- there's not as much acidity as I might have liked -- supported by very smooth sweet tannins that work from below the surface, as it were, and flow into a smooth fairly sweet cherry plum fruit finish. It's softer and much sweeter than is average for Barolo, and this is an effect of the vintage; also because of this softness and the timbre of the acidity I'm not sure how long it will age. If you like bigger softer fruit driven wines, it will work for you.
1 star
Cascina del Monastero
Cascina del Monastero Bricco Luciani Barolo DOCG 2005
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with spicy cedar laced with a fair amount of alcohol and savory accents, but not much in the way of fruit. Warmth, and some vegetal accents, but not fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by bright slightly sour cherry acidity and by warm splintery tannins that flow into a clean rather bitter tannic finish. Quite young, and will clean up nicely in a lesser vintage key; it needs a couple of years to get its bearings and will age well for a decade or more.
2 stars
Cascina del Monastero Bricco Riund Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish leather mingled with some spice and menthol. On the palate it's ample and fairly rich, with moderate fruit supported by sour mineral acidity, and smooth sweet well polished tannins that do most of the work, flowing into a rather green polished finish. The wood is more present than fruit, and this is an effect of the vintage.
1 star
Silvio Grasso
Silvio Grasso Bricco Luciani Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim; it also has a fair amount of sediment, which may be the lot, because fellow tasters had sediment in their glasses too. The bouquet is dusky, with smoke and some rather languid berry fruit laced with green leather, also some spice from grape. On the palate it's ample and bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by brisk berry fruit acidity and by tannins that lay a warm peppery burr over the tongue and flow into a clean peppery finish. Pleasant enough in a very young, rather angry key; it needs at least a year to settle and perhaps two, and will age well for a decade or more.
2 stars
Cascina Ballarin
Cascina Ballarin Bricco Rocca Barolo DOCG 2005
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with sour berry fruit supported by cocoa and greenish cedar backed by quite a bit of alcohol; nice balance in a very young key and is clearly still developing. On the palate it's full and bright, with clean deft sour berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity that's fairly tart -- not quite red currant but in that direction, and by peppery tannins that flow into a warm tannic finish with sour fruit underpinning. It's quite young, and needs a couple of years to get its bearings, at which point it will work well with succulent meats, and also age well for a decade or more. A sleeper that might do very interesting things with time. Worth seeking out.
2 stars
Cascina Ballarin Bussia Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of cedar and some cola mingled with spice and slight berry fruit; it's very young and very oaked. On the palate it's ample, and fairly rich, with powerful berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and pronounced vanilla laced cedary bitterness from the tannins, which are quite smooth and flow into a clean fairly rich finish. Deft in an international key, and needs a couple of years to get its bearings. Will age well for 8-10 and perhaps more.
2 stars
Andrea Oberto
Andrea Oberto Vigneto Brunate Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is dusky, with greenish cedar and some sour berry fruit, though it's in mid stride and obviously still developing. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with moderate rather bitter berry fruit supported by warmth and by smooth tannins that are broadly woven and rather lax, flowing into a clean decidedly bitter finish. I found it lacking in acidity; as a result it feels settled, and will continue to settle with time.
1 star
Andrea Oberto Vigneto Rocche Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with warm berry fruit supported by slight balsamic acidity and hints of rosa canina, with some nutmeg as well. Fairly traditional in feel. On the palate it's full, and rich, with bright fairly sweet cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean tart berry fruit finish. It's ample, and not as tightly woven as I might have expected in a better vintage, but does display a certain grace in a traditional key, and though it is simple by comparison with what one will find in a better vintage, I enjoyed it. It's ready now, and will age at the most 5-8 years.
2 stars
Marcarini
Marcarini Brunate Barolo DOCG 2005
Dusky almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with bright slightly jammy berry fruit supported by nose tingling spice and some savory accents, also some green leather that emerges with swishing. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by dusky tannins, and by moderately intense acidity -- I'd have liked a little more, though what's present does provide direction -- and it all flows into a clean spicy tannic finish. It's in mid stride, and needs a year for the pieces to come together, at which point it will be pleasant in a fairly direct middle of the road key, and age well for 8-10 years.
2 stars
Marcarini La Serra Barolo DOCG 2005
Almandine with black reflections and orange in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with peppery spice mingled with greenish accents and wet leather, also some minerality. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by warm berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that do have some cedar to them, but aren't as angry as I had expected from the nose, and flow into a clean warm berry fruit finish. Pleasant in a softer cool weather key, and I liked the fruit's being tarter, rather than overripe.
2 stars
M. Marengo
M. Marengo Brunate Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, and greenish, with quite a bit of cedar and some alcohol, but not much fruit, though there is some green leather. Cool vintage. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich plum -- almost prune -- fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity -- I would have liked more -- and by smooth well polished, fairly lax tannins that flow into a dusky finish that gradually fades. It's trying hard, but comes up a bit short, and I'm not sure how it will age, because it feels tired now.
1 star
Vietti
Vietti Brunate Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with warm greenish accents and some hot iron mingled with alcohol and some nose tingling spice; more swishing brings up some cedar as well. On the palate it's ample and moderately intense, with fairly bright sour cherry fruit supported by some warmth and by moderate sour mineral acidity that flows into a dry tannic finish. It's lacking in fruit, and as a result the structure steps in to fill the void; this is an effect of the vintage. I would give it a year for things to come together, and expect it to age for 5-8 years.
1 star
Vietti Rocche Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with spice and hints of white glue laced with some red berry fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate fruit supported by slight acidity, and by angry cedar laced tannins that cover all in the finish -- it's like parquet, almost. Woefully young, and squalling.
1 star
Vietti Castiglione Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is spicy, with a fair amount of wood smoke and hardwood ash, and cedar as well. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, and lax, with moderate dusky cherry plum fruit supported by mineral acidity and dusky tannins that flow into a cedar laced finish. Tired, and not with the brightness I would have hoped for from for a Barolo of a more normal vintage.
1 star
Vietti Lazzarito Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with a great rush of greenish cedar mingled with oak -- it's like a wood shop, or sniffing a cedar chest, and there are sweetish oaky accents as well. On the palate it's ample, with bright cedar laced fruit supported by moderate acidity and sweet oaky tannins that flow into a cedar laced finish. If you like heavily oaked wines you'll like it, but if you don't you won't. This sort of wine was more common a few years ago than it is now.
1 star
Oddero Poderi e Cantine
Oddero Poderi e Cantine Brunate Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, in a delicate key, with rosa canina that has a certain pungency to it, leading a fellow taster to mutter about Barolo chinato, and also delicate underlying prune and rhubarb fruit. Pleasant in a cool weather key; it lacks the brightness one finds in more normal vintages. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense very sour cherry fruit supported by sour, almost mineral acidity, and by tannins that are ample and smooth, flowing into a warm mineral finish. There's something ethereal to it, of a sort I would expect in a wine that's older than this. It's a child of the vintage, and comes across as shy, painfully so, but interesting, and will be interesting to follow. But it is much lighter than Barolo normally is, and made me think. Quite a bit. If you're of similar inclination, it will have the same effect upon you.
2 stars
Oddero Poderi e Cantine Vigna Mondoca di Bussia Soprana Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense and difficult to get a grip on, with some mentholated balsamic notes mingled with nutmeg and sour berry fruit; it comes across as having erected barricades to keep people out. On the palate it's ample, with greenish tannins and sour cherry fruit that flow into a green splintery finish.
1 star
Tasted in the afternoon:
Oddero Vigna Rionda Barolo 1999
Deep almandine with black reflections and orange in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with leather and leaf tobacco supported by spice and some minerality. On the palate it's full, rich, and smooth, with leathery berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a warm cedary burr and flow into a clean long warm finish. Quite pleasant in a more mature key, and will work very well with roasts or stews now. I'm not sure how much longer I would age it, however. 5 years, perhaps.
2 stars
Mauro Molino
Mauro Molino Vigna Conca Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections; looks dark. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some wet leather and slight dusky cedary spice, supported by alcohol. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with richer than expected cherry prune fruit supported by moderate acidity and very smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean rather mineral finish. It's quite soft, and doesn't have the bite I expect from a young Barolo; it's drinkable now and if you like the style it will work for you, though I don't think I would age it for long.
1 star
Mauro Molino Gallinotto Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and smoky, with savory accents, and some leather that emerges with swishing, also savory spice and sea salt. Not much fruit. On the palate it's bright, with moderately rich plum fruit supported by mineral acidity and soft tannins that flow into a splintery cedar laced finish with underlying minerality. Young, and needs a year, though the laxness of the fruit is such that it won't have much longer.
1 star
Renato Ratti
Renato Ratti Conca Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with moderate sour berry fruit supported by toasty cedary accents and some alcoholic warmth, with hints of brown sugar sweetness as well that is probably a wood fruit interaction. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a greenish bitter cedar overlay and flow into a cool dusky finish with cedary tannic underpinning. It's a bit heavy, with oak stepping in to carry some of the load fruit carries in better vintages, but will age nicely for 8-10 years.
2 stars
Renato Ratti Rocche Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections; not poured ink but in that direction. The bouquet is powerful, and frankly oaky, with berry fruit and cedar whose interaction brings very ripe yellow peaches to mind, and also spice and sweetness. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by slight acidity, and by considerable tannic bitterness that flows into a tongue curling bitter finish. It needs a couple of years to soften the tannins, but the fruit is soft enough now that I'm not certain what it will be like by then.
1 star
Mauro Veglio
Mauro Veglio Vigneto Gattera Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry plum fruit mingled with spice and some greenish accents, also slight berry fruit jam and some spice. Cool weather. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly bright cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by very smooth sweet tannins that work from below the surface, and flow into a clean sour cherry finish. It's big, and soft, but nicely defined, and if you like the style it will drink well with drier meats, though it's not what I think of as Barolo -- too lax -- and also is not a wine that is going to age particularly long. A child of the vintage.
1 star
Mauro Veglio Castelletto Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some pungent spice and a fair amount of oak. Not much fruit, though there are greenish accents. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by some mineral acidity, and by smooth tannins that have an oaky sweetness to them and flow into a clean dry finish. The fruit isn't as rich as I'd have liked, nr as bright, and the tannins overshadow things; while they will fold in, the relative lack of fruit is a problem that won't go away.
1 star
Mauro Veglio Barolo Castelletto 1999
Deep black cherry ruby -- there's more red, and less garnet than in some. The bouquet is deft, with bright berry fruit laced with balsamic accents, warmth, cedar, and some savory spice. On the palate it's full, rich, and smooth, with powerful red berry fruit supported by bright acidity and very smooth sweet tannins that display considerable polish, and flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant, in a less aggressive key than some, and will drink well with succulent roasts or stews. I have the impression that it has reached its peak, and is holding. In other words, I would drink it now.
90-91
Monfalletto
Monfalletto Bricco Gattera Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. Looks dark. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedary greenness mingled with spice and a fair amount of alcohol, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, smooth, and rather bitter, with moderate cherry plum fruit that gains direction from some acidity, and is then overshadowed by nose curling cedary bitterness that rises like a wave and carries into a the finish. It's softer than I like in Barolo, and I found the bitterness offputting.
1 star
Monfalletto Enrico VI Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a greenish key, with a fair amount of nose tingling spice as well, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich plum cherry fruit supported by dusky tannins that flow into a clean tannic finish. Fairly direct, and needs another year for everything to fall into place, though I wouldn't age it for much more because it does display the softness that is typical of the 2005 vintage.
1 star
Bocchino Eugenio
Bocchino Eugenio La Serra Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish accents supported by slight nose tingling sour spicy acidity, and by some green leather, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, and fairly sweet, with brighter than expected cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and by tannins that lay a peppery burr over the tongue and flow into an angry peppery finish. The wine needs a couple of years to reabsorb the pepper, but won't age for that much longer. This said, among the larger, softer wines it's one of the freshest.
2 stars
Bocchino Eugenio Lu Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is unusual, with rich almost voluptuous sweet strawberry and berry fruit laced with yellow peach; it seems like something from a different, fresher vintage, and is also quite up front, of the scantily clad starlet who's (ahems) are straining against her bodice variety. Not what I think of as Barolo. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich cherry strawberry fruit supported by smooth strawberry acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh finish. It's quite up front, and quite direct, and though not what I expect from a Barolo -- no fist of steel in a velvet glove here -- will drink well with succulent meats. If you like the style.
1 star
Voerzio Gianni
Voerzio Gianni La Serra Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. Improbably dark. The bouquet is powerful and jammy, with plum fruit mingled with greenish cedar and hints of sandalwood. Very different from most of the wines, and brings to mind some of the things that were presented at the height of the modernist wave, in the late 90s. The palate is not quite as rich as I had expected, though it is very much luscious, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by smooth acidity, and by ample very smooth tannins that have some sandalwood greenness to them, and flow into a warm rather savory finish in which the tannins reveal cedary accents. A starlet in a glass, and eye-catching though not quite as opulent as she might have been in a sunnier year; if you like the style you will like the wine, but you have to like the style. Extreme in any case.
1 star
Aurelio Settimo
Aurelio Settimo Barolo DOCG 2005
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is dusky, with spicy berry fruit supported by warmth and red berry fruit with pleasant peppery accents. Nice balance. On the palate it's full, with pleasant, bright berry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet-savory tannins that flow into a clean savory finish. Nice balance and quite deft in a lesser vintage key, and will age well for 8-10 years. Worth seeking out if you like the style.
2 stars
Aurelio Settimo Rocche Barolo DOCG 2005
Lively black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with brambly heather-laced acidity and some menthol supported by spice and warmth, and by a fair amount of wood smoke. Nice balance, in a cooler vintage key. On the palate it's full, with rich berry fruit supported by clean savory spice and moderate mineral acidity, while the tannins are warm, with a peppery burr, and flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish. Graceful, in a lesser vintage key, and more about finesse and bramble than about richness of fruit; it will develop nicely over the next 3-5 years, and work quite well with foods. Nice, but more particular than some other vintages, and is more a wine for wine lovers who want to explore what's in their glass. In other words, it's more demanding.
2 stars
Aurelio Settimo Barolo Rocche 1999
Leathery almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with leathery accents and spice mingled with leaf tobacco and underbrush, and deft spice. Quite elegant, and has a lot to say. On the palate it's full, rich, and clean, with bright berry fruit supported by deft sour berry fruit acidity and by warm sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. Classic old-style Barolo, and very, very nice.
92-3
I visited Teresa Settimo the day after Alba Wines this year, and much enjoyed the visit: her vineyards are beautiful, and drain very well -- it had been raining for hours when I arrived, and though the ground was sloppy, there weren't any puddles. Nice, extremely functional winery too, and after visiting she poured while I took notes.
Aurelio Settimo Dolcetto D'Alba 2007
Lot LB09
Deep pyrope ruby. The bouquet is rich, with powerful red berry fruit, almond blossoms, and some mentholated accents. Nice balance, and pleasant. On the palate it's full and bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by dusky rather bitter acidity, which flows into a clean fresh sour berry fruit finish. Quite zesty, and will be perfect with grilled meats, light stews, and similar dishes. Worth seeking out.
2 stars
Aurelio Settimo Langhe Nebbiolo 2005
Lot E08
This was harvested in late October, after the rains that came suddenly on the 3rd and continued for 10 days. Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with berry fruit supported by greenish accents and spice, with underlying peppery notes. Nice balance and zesty. On the palate it's bright, with zesty cherry fruit supported by spice and deft mineral citric acidity, and by tannins that are warm and splintery, and flow into a splintery tannic finish. Pleasant in a cool vintage key; the grapes are more brambly than they would have been in a warmer vintage, and the wine will drink quite well with foods. it will also age nicely for 3-5 years.
2 stars
Franco Molino
Franco Molino Cascina Rocca Rocche dell'Annunziata Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is pungent, with greenish spice but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and lax tannins that flow into a splintery finish with fair warmth. It's a child of the vintage, and though there is fruit the wood takes a much more active role than it would in a better vintage.
1 star
Franco Molino Cascina Rocca Villero Barolo DOCG Riserva 2003
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with an initial rush of butcher's wax that's followed by some spice and leather; there's not much in the way of fruit. On the palate it's ample, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by spicy tannins that flow into a fairly bright tannic finish; one can feel the heat radiating from the vineyards, and it's very much a child of the vintage: hot, alcoholic, and angry. But in this context it works fairly well, and will drink nicely with stews or roasts.
2 stars
Mario Gagliasso
Mario Gagliasso Rocche Dell'Annunziata Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with iodine and cedar mingled with some nose tingling spice, also slight leather, but not much fruit. Lots of wood. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense plum fruit supported by tannic warmth and some acidity that flows into a clumsy cedar laced finish. It feels tired.
1 star
Mario Gagliasso Torriglione Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with a great rush of cedar and some greenish accents, but not much fruit. It's like sniffing a (winey) barrel slat. On the palate it's ample, with moderate cherry plum fruit supported by slight dusky acidity, and more by smooth soft well polished tannins that flow into a soft tannic finish. It's big, and heavily oaked with smooth oak, and if you like the style you will enjoy it, though I found it to be fairly far from what Barolo should in my opinion be.
1 star
Rocche Costamagna
Rocche Costamagna Rocche Dell'Annunziata Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is powerful, and bitter, with alcohol and angry cedar laced with hardwood ash; there's also some underlying cherry plum fruit. Direct, and up front, without much depth, and this is the vintage. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by almost sugary acidity -- it's not sweet but brings to mind the appearance of cotton candy -- and by deft tannins that flow into a clean fairly tart finish. The palate and the nose seem to be from different wines; the former I found confrontational, whereas the latter I rather enjoyed. If the nose develops following the palate the wine will be fairly pleasant, though it won't have too long to do so because the structure of the wine is already soft and well along. In short, the jury is out.
Rocche Costamagna Bricco Francesco Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is eye opening, with bright rather metallic acidity and some spice, supported by cedar and some underlying berry fruit. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by some berry fruit acidity, and by smooth rather lax tannins that settle quickly into a soft finish. Not as much depth, nor as much tightness as I would have hoped for.
1 star
Stroppiana Oreste
Stroppiana Oreste Vigna San Giacomo Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and very oaky, with a great load of cedar that covers almost all, save some smoky notes. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by brisk berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that have a cedary burr, and flow into a clean fresh tannic finish. It needs another year for the nose to develop and cast off the oak, but it's not going to be particularly long lived, because the fruit is already soft now.
1 star
Stroppiana Oreste Gabutti Bussia Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with moderate berry fruit supported by some balsamic accents and leathery warmth, also quite a bit of alcohol. On the palate it's ample, with bright sour berry fruit supported by warmth and spice, and by tannins that have some cedary notes and flow into a lastingly warm finish with a dusky bitter underpinning. It's a bit disjointed, and comes across as trying hard; I would give it a couple of years to get its bearings, and expect it to age well for more. Tannins and cedar overpower fruit some now.
1 star
Tasted in the afternoon:
Stroppiana Oreste Cabutti Bussia Barolo 1999
2 years in large wood. Pale almandine with orange rim. The bouquet is rich, with bright berry fruit supported by hints of nutmeg and rosa canina, with underlying smoky mentholated spice and leaf tobacco. Quite nice. On the palate it's ample and fairly rich, with clean bright berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and moderate warmth that flow into a clean warm finish. Pleasant though a touch more direct than I might have expected.
2 stars
Tenuta L'Illuminata
Tenuta L'Illuminata Tebavio Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is frankly oaky, with considerable cedar that covers most everything else. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with brighter than expected sour cherry fruit supported by acidic warmth, and by tannins that have a warm oaky burr and flow into a warm rather osur finish. It needs time for the nose to catch up to the palate, though I'm not sure how much time it will have, because it's fairly soft. A nice expression of a difficult vintage in a decidedly oaky key, and if you like the style it's pleasant enough. But you have to like the style.
1 star
Bosco Agostino
Bosco Agostino Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with considerable cedar and spice mingled with some bitter accents and sea salt, not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with much sourer than expected berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by smooth ample tannins that flow into a warm rather green sour berry fruit finish. It's brighter and livelier than many of the wines poured, and does display a degree of freshness, though it's a far cry from a Barolo of a better vintage. This said, it will drink well with stews or roasts in the short term, and is alive. But I wouldn't age it for long.
2 stars
Alessandria Fratelli
Alessandria Fratelli Monvigliero Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is muted, with swishing bringing up hints of hardwood ash and cedar, but little else. Nobody home. On the palate it's ample, with soft plum cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by ample soft smooth tannins that flow into a soft finish. Lax, and already quite settled. It will settle further with time.
1 star
Alessandria Fratelli Gramolere Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some greenish cedar and spice, supported by moderate berry fruit -- there's not that much -- and by alcohol and some leather. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich sour berry fruit supported by dusky tannins that are cedar laced, and flow into a long tart finish with lasting alcoholic warmth. The nose is behind the palate, and it needs time, at least a year, to get its bearings and figure out what it wants to be; I found it to be fairly direct, without as much complexity as I might have liked. In its defense, it needs time, and time does bring complexity. In short, a bit too young to score.
Tasted in the afternoon:
Fratelli Alessandria Monvigliero Barolo 1999
From a Magnum
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with leather and balsamic notes mingled with tart spice and savory accents; more swishing brings up coffee grounds and leaf tobacco, and it is nicely balanced, with quite a bit going on. On the palate it's full and powerful, with fairly rich balsam-laced berry fruit supported by warmth and clean cedar-laced tannins that flow into a warm, fairly tannic finish. There's not as much acidity as I might have expected, and because of this it's a bit less exciting than it might otherwise have been.
2 stars
Bel Colle
Bel Colle Monvigliero Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is powerful, with a rush of cedar and considerable smoky overtones that cover most everything. On the palate it's ample and sweet, with lax cherry plum fruit supported by slightly greenish tannins that flow into a warm finish. Lax, and settled, and is going to do more with time; what s holding it up is a great deal of new oak.
1 star
Ascheri
Ascheri Vigna dei Pola Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with rosa canina laced with some rhubarb and nutmeg, with a tendril of some tingling spice as well. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm tart berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning and some greenness; it's pleasant enough in a fairly traditional key and much brighter and more focused than many of the wines poured. It will drink well now with succulent red meats, and also will age well for 5-8 years, perhaps more. More traditional in style, and if you like the style worth seeking out.
2 stars
Ascheri Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and pungent, with smoky stable straw mingled with wet horse and horse pee, and also some nose tingling spice. Rustic. On the palate it's ample, with bright berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and rather graceful berry fruit acidity that flows into a clean bright berry fruit finish. It manages fair grace, and if you like the style, you will enjoy it very much. If you instead seek more delicate fruit driven bouquets it won't work as well for you. In short, more particular, and worth seeking out if you like the style.
2 stars
Tasted in the afternoon:
Ascheri Barolo Sorano 1999
Deep almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is powerful, with smoky leaf tobacco laced with green leather and spice, and an underpinning of dried flowers. Beautiful maturity. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful plum fruit supported by deft leathery acidity and smooth silky tannins that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish that also has hints of licorice root. Beautiful balance and depth, and though it will be quite nice to drink at a meal, it will be just as nice to sip with wine loving friends. Stunning.
92-3
Eredi Lodali
Eredi Lodali Lorens Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with deft rosa canina mingled with slight nutmeg and some cedar, with underlying yellow ripe peach and some greenish accents, also nose tingling spice. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by bright mineral acidity and by smooth tannins that do have a slight cedary component, but aren't exaggerated in that sense, and flow into a clean fairly bitter finish with berry fruit underpinning. Pleasant in a middle of the road key, and will drink well with succulent meats now, and also age well for 3-5 years; it is a child of the vintage and won't be long lived, but is pleasant enough now, and not overly soft.
2 stars
Cavallotto Bricco Boschis
Cavallotto Bricco Boschis Bricco Boschis Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is warm, with some balsamic notes mingled with spice and sour berry fruit; there's also wet leather and some animal tang. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that are soft, but not excessively oaky, and flow into a fairly long sour berry fruit finish with bitter underpinning. It's ample, and not a wine to age, but does have life and depth, and will drink well with succulent meats now.
1 star
Cavallotto Bricco Boschis Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe Barolo DOCG Riserva 2003
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with warmth and cedar mingled with quite a bit of alcohol, and dusky leathery notes as well, mingled with some underbrush. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright cherry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a peppery burr and flow into a clean peppery finish; it's a bit lax, but not overripe, and I would be tempted to hold it for a few years to see how it develops. It might do interesting things, though it remains the child of a hot vintage.
2 stars
Cavallotto Bricco Boschis Vignolo Barolo DOCG Riserva 2003
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some leather and slightly greenish leathery acidity that brings wet leather to mind, supported by dusky almost hazelnut accents. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean sour cherry finish. It's a pleasant surprise on the palate; though it doesn't display the tightness on expects of a great vintage, it does display a pleasing grace, and I would give it a few more years to allow the nose to continue to develop. In short, if left alone it may do interesting things.
2 stars
Tenuta Montanello
Tenuta Montanello Montanello Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish notes and some cedar, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, and soft, with moderate berry fruit supported by bitter minerality and by smooth soft tannins that flow into a decidedly tannic finish with quite a bit of oak. The wood is carrying the show.
1 star
Franco Conterno Cascina Sciulun
Franco Conterno Cascina Sciulun Vigna Pugnane Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is smoky, with some jammy berry fruit accents and some greenish notes, but not much else. On the palate it's full, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by deft sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have greenish mineral accents to them and flow into a clean sour finish with hints of petroleum. It needs a year for the nose to develop, though I wouldn't expect it to age for too long -- 3-5 years, perhaps up to 8. It's a child of the vintage, and though the oak is better dosed than in some cases it is present, and contributes significantly, especially on the nose. I liked the palate better, because there is a degree of brightness to it.
1 star
Franco Conterno Cascina Sciulun Bussia Munie Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit supported by quite a bit of alcohol and some greenish spice. Quite young and needs time. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by clean berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean cherry finish with tannic underpinning. Pleasant grace and power, and will drink quite well with foods in the near term, and also age well for up to 10 years. Worth seeking out.
2 stars
Brovia
Brovia Rocche Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is shut tight, of the nobody home variety -- some hints of white glue, but little else. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich plum fruit supported by cherry plum acidity, and by peppery tannins that flow into a broad plum laced finish with peppery undertones. It's ample, and soft, and smooth, in a ripe fruit driven key, and if you like this style you will enjoy it. I don't find it to be too typical of Barolo, which should -- in my opinion -- be tighter and more controlled.
1 star
Brovia Cà Mia Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is peppery, with moderate fruit and some spice. Shut tight, not happy to be here. On the palate it's ample and fairly rich, with bright cherry fruit supported by moderately intense berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight peppery tang, and flow into a clean fresh finish. Middle of the road in key, and needs another year or two for the nose to develop; will age well for at least a decade.
2 stars
Roccheviberti
Roccheviberti Rocche di Castiglione Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with petroleum and cedar mingled with greenish accents and some underlying jammy fruit. On the palate it's full and fairly sweet, with bright cherry plum fruit supported by deft acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm sour berry fruit finish. It's brighter on the palate than I expected from the nose, and will age nicely for 3-5 years, by which time the bouquet will be much better developed than it is now. This said, it is a child of the vintage, and bigger and softer than one would normally expect of a Barolo.
1 star
Giacosa Fratelli
Giacosa Fratelli Vigna Mandorlo Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is unusual, with berry fruit mingled with some strawberry acidity. On the palate it's ample and soft, with well settled berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that are ample and soft. Settled, like an overweight person in an easy chair with very soft cushions.
1 star
Giacosa Fratelli Bussia Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with leathery berry fruit supported by clean spice and some Moroccan leather, also savory accents. Pleasant in a fairly traditional key. On the palate it's bright, with rich fairly osur cherry fruit supported by bright savory acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright fairly tart finish. Pleasant, and will drink well with foods, also will be fairly long lived. Worth seeking out if you prefer a more traditional style
2 stars
Fontana Livia
Fontana Livia Villero Barolo DOCG 2005
Almandine with black reflections and orange rim. The color of Nebbiolo! The bouquet is deft, with moderately intense leathery notes and slight balsam, with alcohol and some delicate spice from grape as well. On the palate it's ample, with soft berry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long berry fruit finish; by comparison with many it's more into the cherry end of the fruit spectrum, though it does have the same sort of softness that other wines of the morning have showed. It will be fairly short lived -- the tannins are smooth but don't have steel to them -- but is pleasant enough now.
2 stars
Fontana Livia Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with quite a bit of alcohol and considerable greenish accents, not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with dusky acidity and settled cedar laced tannins. It has a tired feel to it.
1 star
Fontana Livia Ettore Fontana Barolo DOCG Riserva 2003
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted. Shut really tight. Nothing emerges; one might as well be swishing water. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate rather soft berry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a soft finish. It's not cooked, and not overripe, and while this is positive, its soft weakness (for a Nebbiolo) is not.
1 star
Giacomo Fenocchio
Giacomo Fenocchio Villero Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and some hints of cherry too. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some cedar with smoky overtones. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate plum cherry fruit supported by warmth and warm savory tannins that flow into a clean warm tannic finish. Fairly direct, and the tannins have a spicy clumpy feel to them; I wonder if the fruit will hold long enough for the tannins to come together and smooth.
1 star
Giacomo Fenocchio Bussia Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish vegetal accents mingled with spice and red berry fruit; pleasant in a very young key. On the palate it's ample, with rich fairly intense red berry fruit supported by brisk berry fruit acidity, and by sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Pleasant, and will drink very well with red meats in the near term, though it will also age well for 8-10 years and perhaps more.
2 stars
Sobrero Francesco
Sobrero Francesco Ciabot Tanasio Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is smoky, with some spice but not much fruit. The palate reflects the nose; there's moderate cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean cherry plum finish. It's fairly lax, and needs another year for the nose to develop -- time that it has, though I'm not sure how much longer it has, because it's settled enough now as it is.
1 star
Tasted in the afternoon:
Sobero Barolo Pernato Riserva 1999
Elegant almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful and earthy, with balsamic notes and spice mingled with red berry fruit, a fair amount of mineral acidity, and some leaf tobacco. Quick to write, but quite harmonious in a youthful key. On the palate it's full and bright, with fairly rich fruit supported by bright peppery spice and considerable warmth that flows into a clean bright finish with warmth and acidity. Quite young, and will continue to age well for many years.
2 stars
Monchiero
Monchiero Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with nutmeg and spice laced with cedar -- a lot of wood here. On the palate it's ample, and bright, with richer than expected berry fruit supported by spice, and by tannins that have an angry cedar component and lay a peppery veneer over the tongue, and flow into a distinctly cedary finish. A surfeit of oak, which will age well for a few years, but the oak will always, I think, predominate.
1 star
Castello di Verduno
Castello di Verduno Monvigliero Barolo DOCG Riserva 2003
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with jammy bouquet f and a fair amount of warmth, also some greenish spice. On the palate it's ample and fairly rich, with quite a bit of alcoholic warmth supported by greenish berry fruit and by tannins that have an angry peppery tang. It's oaky, and an unhappy child.
1 star
Castello di Verduno Barolo Massara Riserva 1999
Dusky almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and balsamic, with savory accents, very old school and quite pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's full and rich, with bright savory berry fruit supported by deft minerality and rich tannins that flow into a warm finish. Quick to write, but graceful, and quite pleasant, and if you like the more traditional style you will enjoy it very much. Quite impressive.
90-91
Casetta
Casetta Barolo DOCG Riserva 2003
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is smoky, with cedar and some leather, but not much in the way of fruit. Some hot iron, however. On the palate it's full, and soft, with intense plum fruit supported by spice and sweetish tannins that flow into a plum finish. It's clearly from a hot, rather overripe vintage, and doesn't display the sort of brightness that one (at least I) associates with Nebbiolo.
1 star
Monti
Monti Bussia Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful and smoky, with quite a bit of rather savory spice, laced with some sweetness and moderate fruit. A lot of oak and the wine hasn't digested it yet. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich sour berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that do have a cedary overlay that gradually emerges with warmth in the finish. It needs a year or perhaps two to get its bearings and come together, at which point it will be pleasant in a fairly tight international style, and age nicely for up to a decade.
2 stars
Monti Barolo DOCG 2005
Deft deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with greenish balsamic acidity and tart cherry fruit supported by spice, alcoholic warmth, and some nose tingling spice. On the palate it's bright, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by sweet slightly splintery tannins that flow into a long clean sour berry fruit finish. Quite elegant in a traditional key, and young; I would give it a couple of years to get its bearings and expect it to age well for at last a decade, becoming very graceful with time. Worth seeking out if you like this style.
2 stars
Poderi Aldo Conterno
Poderi Aldo Conterno Colonnello Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is deft, with spicy sour cherry fruit supported by some rosa canina and warmth, also a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's bright, with rich cherry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and by clean vigorous tannins that flow into a bitter, sour finish that's quite long. Pleasant, and very young; will drink well with foods, and also has the capacity to age well for a decade or more. Middle of the road, and tight..
2 stars
Poderi Colla
Poderi Colla Bussia Dardi Le Rose Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and fairly balsamic, with greenish accents interwoven into the balsam, also spice and wood smoke. It's a bit up in the air at present, and there's also a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's ample, and softer than some, with moderate berry fruit supported by relatively mineral acidity and smooth glancing tannins that flow into a mineral tannic finish. It's not quite as rich as I might have liked, less fruit and less acidity.
1 star
Silvano Bolmida
Silvano Bolmida Bussia Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is powerful, with floral accents -- geraniums mostly -- supported by dried orange peel and spice, with underlying berry fruit and quite a bit of alcohol. Powerful, and also fairly heavily oaked. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with a rush of fairly bright berry fruit that is supported by acidity that gives way to cedar from the tannins, and it all flows into a long cedary finish with considerable warmth. Heavily oaked and still digesting it; if you like the style you will enjoy it, but it needs another 3-5 years to get its bearings, and will age well for a decade or more.
2 stars
Silvano Bolmida Vigne dei Fantini Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with a tremendous lot of hot vegetal cedar-laced bitterness on the outset that knocks the head back; there's also peppery spice and a fair amount of alcohol, while, with time, greenish berry fruit emerges laced with floral accents. On the palate it's brighter and more fruit driven than one would expect from the nose; there's fairly intense sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by warm tannins that though cedar laced don't get in the way of the fruit, which flows into a long warm tart finish. It's angry, and I'm not sure what it will do with time, though I would give it a couple of years, because if it goes in the right direction it will do interesting things.
2 stars
Podere Rocche dei Manzoni
Podere Rocche dei Manzoni Big D'Big Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and frankly oaky, with sweetish cola notes that are wood fruit interaction mingled with spice, and some warmth. It's very young and still looking for balance. On the palate it's moderately intense, with moderate berry fruit supported by tannins that are tongue-bendingly cedary, and flow into a very oaky finish; it's like licking a barrel slat, and though the oak will fold in some with time, there isn't that much fruit behind it, and also the polishing provided by the oak has knocked the acidity way down. If you like heavily oaked wines you'll like it, but you have to like that style. If you don't it won't work for you.
1 star
Podere Rocche dei Manzoni Vigna Cappella Santo Stefano Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit supported by cedar and greenish accents, some plum, and also dried orange peel and spice, with dusky greenish overtones as well. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry fruit supported by moderate cherry acidity, and by tannins that are frankly oaky, and need time to smooth, because at present they clump up on the tongue and are very dry. It gives the impression of lumbering; it also needs 2-3 years to get its bearings, and will age well for a decade or more, because there is sufficient fruit and acidity for moderate aging. Not necessarily for long-term aging, however.
2 stars
Gianfranco Alessandria
Gianfranco Alessandria San Giovanni Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with delicate tart berry fruit supported by spice and alcoholic warmth; quite young but promising and pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's ample and rich, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a graceful sour berry fruit finish with lasting warmth. Pleasant, and quite graceful; it needs a year or two to come together and smooth, and will drink very nicely for a decade or more. Worth seeking out.
2 stars
Gianfranco Alessandria Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with inky black reflections and dusky rim. The nose is eye opening, a rush of cedar that smells like an explosion in a wood shop, with shellac to add depth. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by acidic warmth and by tannins that have a soft cedar overlay with a fair amount of cocoa too, and flow into a warm finish. Very heavily oaked, and though the nose is overcome at present there's sufficient fruit on the palate to fight it to a standstill. If you like the style it will work for you, but you have to like heavily oaked wines, and this will hold true as it evolves too.
1 star
Elio Grasso
Elio Grasso Gavarini Chiniera Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and fairly aggressive with hardwood ash and cedar mingled with spice, and some savory accents; there's a degree of pungency to it at first swish that is a bit off-putting, which then gives way to sour berry fruit. On the palate it's ample, with rather bitter berry fruit supported by bitter acidity and tannins that flow into a warm fairly bitter finish. It's quite young, and fairly aggressive, and if you like the style you will enjoy it, but it's far removed from the softer smoothness of the international style, and I'm not sure how much it will smooth with time. Given the acidity it will in any case be long lived. In short, traditional in a slightly rustic key and very young; if you like the style you will like it very much and indeed find it worth seeking out. But you have to like the style.
2 stars
Gemma
Gemma Giblin Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is eye opening, with warm balsamic notes mingled with nutmeg and sour berry fruit, with underlying savory accents and spice from grape, with considerable warmth as well. Quite a bit going on in a graceful, decidedly traditional key. On the palate it's ample, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long bright finish; the wine is ready now but is also at the start of a fairly long journey, and the acidity will do a beautiful job of accompanying it as it ages. If you like the style it's well worth seeking out. If you're of more modern tastes, you'll like it less.
2 stars
Gemma Colarej Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with considerable cedar and greenish accents mingled with some spice. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright sour berry fruit supported by greenish accents and tannins that have a warm cedary overly and flow into a sour cedar laced finish. Fairly direct, and up front; also more oak than I might have liked given the fruit.
1 star
Tasted in the afternoon:
Gemma Barolo 1999
Deep almandine with almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is bright and pungent, with leaf tobacco mingled with wet leather and hardwood ash, and some raw beef as well. Quite a bit going on in a frankly mature key. The palate surprised me, with rich bright berry fruit supported by lively cherry acidity and by smooth steely tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Beautiful wine in a traditional key, and will bring joy to a meal built around succulent red meats. I would, if I had a bottle, wait, however. It still has a ways to go.
92
Podere Ruggeri Corsini
Podere Ruggeri Corsini Corsini Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with cherry fruit supported by cedar and some spicy accents, with moderate acidity and warmth, also dusky greenness. On the palate it's ample, with fairly intense sour cherry fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity, and by tannins that are smooth and have an underpinning of cedar to them, and flow into a clean tannic cedar-laced finish. I'd have liked a little more richness to the fruit than I found; it's a bit dry especially in the finish..
1 star
Josetta Saffirio
Josetta Saffirio Persiera Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intriguing, with cherry fruit laced with violets and some shellac, spice, and a fair amount of alcoholic warmth. On the palate it's full, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a distinctly greenish cedary component and underlying dusky bitterness, and flow into a warm greenish tart finish with some underlying cedar. It's intensely oaked, but also has quite a bit of acidity, and if it absorbs the oak will become fairly graceful in an international key with time. But it needs the time, and if you're of more traditional tastes it won't work as well for you.
2 stars
Josetta Saffirio Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is pungent, with floral accents mingled with spice and cut flowers; quite young and gives an impression of being in mid stride. On the palate it's full, with bright berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and peppery acidity, while the finish is long and peppery. It's fairly direct, and in mid stride, with the fruit less rich than it might be, tannic bitterness carries the day.
1 star
Costa Di Bussia
Costa di Bussia Campo dei Buoi Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with floral accents supported by tart cherry fruit and spice; it's very young, but promising in a brash cheeky sort of way. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by leathery tannins and fairly brisk acidity that flows into a clean leathery tannic finish; it's quick to write, and the wine is very young, but pleasant in a fairly traditional key and will drink well with succulent red meats now, while aging well too. Pleasing freshness in the short term that bodes well for long term too. Worth seeking out.
2 stars
Costa di Bussia Tenuta Arnulfo Barolo DOCG 2005
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with floral accents, and spice supported by moderate berry fruit and hints of soap. One writes what one smells. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly bright berry fruit supported by moderate savory berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a tingly savory finish. Fairly direct, and also fairly soft, though not flabby; I'm not sure how long lived it will be because the tannins are already smooth, and there isn't that much acidity to keep it in line with time.
1 star
Parusso
Parusso Mariondino Bussia le Coste Mosconi 35° Annata Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections. Very oaky nose, with spice and alcohol, but not much fruit at all at the outset; what emerges with time is succulent yellow peach in spades. A bit disconcerting. On the palate it's ample, with rich plum peach fruit supported by warm berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm berry fruit finish. Not quite what I expect of a Barolo; it's the result of fruit wood interaction, and if you like it you will like it, but -- as I said -- it's not typical.
1 star
Cantina Gigi Rosso
Cantina Gigi Rosso Airone Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is musty, almost, with acidity and hints of leather mingled with alcohol, but not much fruit. Pungent, however. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rather lax red berry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are a bit settled, and soft. Disjointed, and I'm not sure it will ever really come together well. In short, a child of the vintage.
1 star
Grimaldi Bruna
Grimaldi Bruna Badarina Vigna Regnola Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with jammy greenish berry fruit supported by pungent cedar and a fair amount of bitterness. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by moderate almost mineral acidity, and by tannins that are warm and bitter, and flow into a clean bitter finish. It's a bit more settled than some, and though quite adequate will, I fear, continue to settle with time. In short, not a wine for long aging.
1 star
Eredi Virginia Ferrero
Eredi Virginia Ferrero San Rocco Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black almandine and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and frankly rustic, with balsamic notes mingled with wet leather and stable straw, and some greenish spice; quite a bit going on in a very old school key, and if you like the style it is pleasant. On the palate it's rich, with bright cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish; pleasant in a traditional key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. The one thing to say is that the acidity isn't quite as marked as I might have hoped, and this means that it perhaps won't age as long as some vintages.
2 stars
Palladino
Palladino Villa Brolio Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is much more cedar laced than I'd have expected from the color; there's warmth and wood shavings mingled with some bitterness, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and bitter, with moderate fruit covered by cedar that flows into a blocky cedary finish. Too much oak, and it overshadows the wine, which is angry. Very angry.
1 star
Schiavenza
Schiavenza Broglio Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedary accents mingled with spice and smoke, also some shellac, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, and fairly soft, with sour berry fruit supported by minerality and cedar laced tannins that flow into a clean cedary finish with mineral underpinning. There's not as much fruit as I'd have liked; the tannins carry it.
1 star
Schiavenza Prapò Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and green, with cedar and some berry fruit laced with spice, but what emerges most is the green cedar. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright berry fruit supported by greenish cedary acidity and spice, and by clean bitterness that emerges in the finish. It's quite young, and if it digests the wood it has eaten will do interesting things, but it needs time to get its act together, a couple of years at least.
2 stars
Cascina Cucco
Cascina Cucco Cerrati Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish acidity and nose tingling spice; it's clearly in mid stride, and developing. On the palate it's fairly rich, with lively cherry fruit supported by warm sour berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean sour peppery finish. Pleasant in a very young middle of the road key and needs a couple of years to get its bearings; once it has them will age nicely for a decade or more. Expect it to improve.
2 stars
Cascina Cucco Cerrati Vigna Cucco Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with jammy greenness mingled with spice and some warmth, also greenish accents and some wood glue, a combination that brings chalk to mind somehow. On the palate it's ample, with moderately rich cherry fruit supported by mineral acidity and cedar laced tannins that flow into a dry mineral finish. Not as rich as I'd have liked, and the fruit is more settled, with bramble but not the greenish acidity that marks good bramble.
1 star
Germano Ettore
Germano Ettore Cerretta Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is intense, with petroleum mingled with dusky spice and greenish cedary bitterness. No fruit at all. But charged. On the palate it's full, with greenish berry fruit supported by bright acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh finish. It's got a lot of fruit -- has to, to stand up to that much oak- -- and it may do interesting things with time, though it is very much behind now, especially on the nose. Needs a couple of years at least, and may age well for a decade or more. But you should only consider it if you like heavily oaked wines.
1 star
Tasted in the afternoon:
Germano Ettore Barolo Cerretta 1999
Deep almandine with black reflections and orange rim. The bouquet is powerful, and smoky, with fairly rich leather-laced berry fruit and warmth; it has nice balance and is still developing. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful berry fruit supported by tannins that have a warm splintery burr and flow into a clean fairly tannic finish with a warm cedary underpinning. Because of the aggressiveness of the tannins, which is I think wood derived, it will work better with a hearty roast or stew than far from the table. Fine, bright, and blessed with a sunny disposition.
88-91
Rosso Giovanni
Rosso Giovanni Serralunga Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a dusky hot style with considerable cedar and greenish spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's bright and soft, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by smooth soft tannins, and by moderate acidity that flows into a greenish bitter tannic finish. Direct, large, and rather soft; I'd have liked greater depth and tightness than I found.
1 star
Tasted in the afternoon:
Giovanni Rosso Barolo Cerretta 1999
Lively almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is rich, with wet leather and cut tobacco mingled with spice - deft nutmeg - and warmth. Graceful polish. On the palate it's full, with rich minerality and berry fruit supported by sweet tannins that flow into a bitter leathery finish. Pleasant, and deft, though more mature than many of the 1999s; it will work well with rich meat dishes and is ready to drink now.
88-90
Fontanafredda
Fontanafredda La Rosa Barolo DOCG 2005
The bottle is massive, with the mouth looking like a musket barrel. The wine is dark almandine with black reflections and has a powerful bouquet with smoky spice and berry fruit laced with cedar, and also some plum. On the palate it's ample, with fairly soft plum cherry fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and by tannins that have a hot peppery burr that increases with time, becoming decidedly spicy. It's direct, and draws more from wood than fruit - a child of the vintage.
1 star
Fontanafredda Serralunga D'Alba Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and fairly dark rim. The bouquet is spicy, with dusky bitterness and quite a bit of cedar, while there's not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, and soft, with moderately intense plum cherry fruit supported by mineral acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a decidedly mineral finish. It's tired, in a rather overripe way, and frankly settled.
1 star
Tasted in the afternoon:
Fontanafredda Barolo Lazzarito 1999
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with smoky dusky accents mingled with leaf tobacco and spice, nice balance and fairly rich. Beautiful maturity in a more charged key than some. On the palate it's full, rich, and fairly sweet, with powerful cherry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that display a warm burr and flow into a clean fresh slightly sour berry fruit finish. It's not as graceful as some, but does display considerable elegance in a muscular key -- a gymnast as opposed to a ballet dancer. It will also age well for many more years.
89-91
Sordo Giovanni
Sordo Giovanni La Serra Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with cherry fruit supported by greenish berry fruit acidity and spice. Pleasant enough. On the palate it's ample, with bright rather green berry fruit supported by fairly deft berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a spicy sour cherry finish. Pleasant, and though quite young will drink well with foods already, and also has the legs to age well for a decade or more; it may do quite interesting things.
2 stars
Guido Porro
Guido Porro Vigna Lazzairasco Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish fruit accents that are mingled with slight white glue and spice, with some underlying cedar as well. On the palate it's ample, and soft, with moderately intense bitter berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and dusky tannins that flow into a decidedly bitter finish.
1 star
Guido Porro Vigna Santa Caterina Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, with some cedar and spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by soft sweet tannins and moderate acidity, which is just enough to provide backbone but not really decisive. In short, I would have liked more direction and authority.
1 star
Pira Luigi
Pira Luigi Vigna Margheria Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is powerful, with greenish accents mingled with berry fruit and quite a bit of cedar. On the palate it's ample, with bitter cedar laced berry fruit supported by cedary tannins; there's not much acidity because the wood has buffed it out, and as a result the finish is greenish and bitter.
1 star
Massolino Vigna Rionda
Massolino Vigna Rionda Margheria Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with greenish leathery accents mingled with cherry fruit and some forest berry fruit, with spice and dusky shadow. Quite elegant, with considerable depth. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful sweet berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm clean berry fruit finish. Very pleasant and has a lot to say; graceful too. One of the finest 2005s I tasted.
89-91
Massolino Vigna Rionda Barolo DOCG 2005
Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with bright sour berry fruit supported by some wood smoke and rosa canina. Fairly direct and clearly developing. On the palate it's full and bright, with rich berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and fair warmth, andalso by powerful bitter tannins that flow into a fairly long clean tart finish. Pleasant, and young; it needs a couple of years to come together, and though it is clearly a cooler vintage wine will age nicely for 10-12 years at least. More about freshness and finesse than power.
2 stars.
The first time I went to Vinitaly (in 1993) I stopped at Vigna Rionda's stand and came away much impressed by their Barolo. I had never visited the winery, however, and took advantage of the opportunity to stop by them this year in the course of Alba Wines. The winery is in the square under the Castello di Serralunga, and overlooks the vineyards. They use large wood except for Vigna Parafada, which they introduced in 1990 (before then the grapes went into their basic Barolo). The vineyard, a 1-hectare plot whose vines are now 50 years old, produced extremely tannic grapes and they felt small wood would help tame the wine's tannins. They are now gradually shifting it to large wood, however, and the 2007 vintage will be all large wood.
In addition to Parafada, they have another 20 hectares in various parts of the Comune of Serralunga, including 2 1/2 in Vigna Rionda.
We tasted a number of wines on their terrace, which overlooks the valley, and this merits a brief aside: This spring was oneof the wettest in memory, and there were heavy rains just before Alba Wines that resulted in a number of landslides. Some minor, but others serious, and from the terrace we could see, in addition to several minor scars, a major slide where an entire vineyard had funneled into a gulley. A sad sight.
Massolino Vigna Rionda Dolcetto D'Alba 2008
Lot LDD109
Lively violet with violet rim. Bright bouquet with lively violets and berry fruit supported by some jammy notes, spice, bitter almonds, and underlying berry fruit. On the palate it's full and bright with lively cherry fruit supported by considerable warmth and bright tannins. Refreshingly youthful, and will drink well with grilled meats or other quickly cooked foods. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars
Massolino Barolo 2004
Lot BN107
Lively almandine with bright black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful and elegant, with rich berry fruit supported by greenish accents, wet green leather, and warm, almost chestnut leaf bitterness. Quite a bit going on in a young key, and still very much a child. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Great depth, and the difference with respect to the 2005 is day and night -- this is much richer, derived from infinitely superior raw materials, and even in rawest youth displays a harmony of a kind the 2005 may never have.
90-91
Massolino Parafada Barolo 2005
Deep almandine with black reflections and some orange in the rim. The bouquet is rich, with berry fruit supported by sweetness, spice, and some savory accents. On the palate it's ample and rich, with cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and sweet polished tannins that flow into a warm clean berry fruit finish. Deft and a very nice expression of the vintage; nice interplay of finesse and elegance. It's less austere than the 2005 Barolo base, and also less angry; a fellow taster says it "seems less 2005." Not quite as full fleshed as the 2004, but quite pleasant and will age nicely for 8-10 years at least, improving with time.
2 stars
Massolino Vigna Rionda Margheria Barolo 2004
Elegant almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, and powerful, with spicy berry fruit supported by green leather and some rosa Canina. Quite charged and tremendous potential, but very, very young -- rather like a tween who's becoming gangly. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful fairly sweet cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and some leathery acidity that flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish Quick to write, but beautiful harmony in a very young key, and the tannins do reveal some velvet, though they have a long way to go. Very nice, and though it will bring joy to a meal now, it will richly reward those who give it time. The more the better.
90-92
Massolino Parafada Barolo Riserva 1999
Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with dusky leathery accents mingled with spice and alcohol, and some underlying savory cedar. There's considerable depth and it opens nicely; though the presence of barriques is evident, they do not impinge. On the palate it's full and rich, with elegant sour berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and considerable warmth that flows into a clean velvety berry fruit finish with warm tannic underpinning. Very nice, and will also age well for many more years. It has a lot to say, and is a fine conversationist.
92-3
Paolo Manzone
Paolo Manzone Meriame Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep almandine with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, in a greenish key, with spice and hints of sandalwood mingled with some berry fruit and gum Arabic. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by dusky berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight cedar component, and flow into a bright sour cherry finish. Pleasant enough, though it needs a year at least for the nose to come together and develop; I found it growing upon me because the palate is quite graceful, and if the nose follows it it will be quite pleasant.
2 stars
Paolo Manzone Serralunga Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is intense, with dusky cedar mingled with berry fruit and spice, and also with greenish notes; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's it's bright, and fairly sweet, with mentholated cola laced berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm soft finish:; it gives an impression of overripeness, and the oak has smoothed and polished over just about everything. Too much for my tastes; if you like ample soft smooth wines you will like it, but you have to like the style, and I doubt it will be too long lived.
1 star
Rivetto
Rivetto Serralunga Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and spicy, with a fiar amount of mint and some sweet berry fruit laced with warm cedar and spice. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately rich cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by moderately intense berry fruit acidity that flows into a clean fairly tart mineral finish with plum underpinning. Within the context of ample softer wines it is pleasant, because the fruit is more towards cherry and berry than plum, and it is therefore more alive, though soft. If you like the style you will enjoy it, but you have to like the style. If you like tarter, zestier wines with more backbone it won't work as well for you.
2 stars
Rivetto Giulin Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with considerable cedar and some sweetness mingled with jammy accents and spice; there's also almost candied plum fruit -- with a hint of ginger added to it, and notes of candied spice. Not much fruit in the more traditional cherry plum sense of the term. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich candied cherry fruit supported by sweet tannins and moderate acidity; the overall impression is fairly graceful in a softer very ripe key, and I would drink it now because it's not a wine that will age for long or too well, at least that is my impression. If you like the style you will enjoy it, but it's far removed from the fist of steel in the velvet glove.
2 stars
Tasted in the evening:
Rivetto Matiré Langhe Bianco DOC 2008
This is a Nascetta, a white varietal that had almost completely disappeared from the Langhe, but is now making a comeback against concerted odds -- a few years ago the Authorities demanded another producer rip hers out because it was "unauthorized." I cannot but view Nascetta's return with satisfaction, because it is an extremely interesting varietal with considerable potential. This was made with a mixture of purchased and home-grown grapes, as their vineyard is newly planted and just entering production. The wine: Deft brassy gold. The bouquet is powerful and richly aromatic, with bright white plum and considerable minerality. On the palate it's bright, with rich citric minerality and considerable warmth supported by a peppery tang from the grapes, and flows into clean bright finish. It is quite promising, and I await future vintages eagerly.
2 stars
Pio Cesare
Pio Cesare Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with floral accents mingled with cola and spice, and some underlying cedar. Rather cheeky in some ways; also lacy, but clearly reveals wood in any case. On the palate it's ample, with bright cherry and greenish berry fruit supported by cedar laced spice that flows into a clean greenish finish with tart underpinning. Direct, and fairly simple, though this is also youth; it needs another year or two to digest the wood, and will age well for 8-10 years in a fairly international key.
2 stars
Terre del Barolo
Terre del Barolo Barolo DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with candied berry fruit laced with rosa canina and spice; a bit unusual for a Barolo, and this is due to the wine's being very young and completely up in the air. On the palate it's ample, with deft berry fruit supported by leathery acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright tart finish with leathery overtones and some nutmeg and rosa canina. Interesting, and woefully young, it may do very nice things, becoming lacy with time, but it will need a few years to show where it's going. It could become quite impressive in a lacy ethereal key. The jury is out, because it needs time.
1 comment:
Very impressive review of the 05 vintage! I visited Barolo for the first time in May '09 and absolutely loved both the place and the wine. Tasted probably 30 Barolos from the 05 vintage, which all ranged from good to outstanding in my opinion. Given how much I liked the 05's, I definitely need to purchase some 04Barolo given that everyone has hailed it as a great vintage!
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