Carmignano: the 2009 Vintage Presentation

Carmignano is one of the smallest Italian appellations. It is also one of the oldest: Cosimo III De'Medici recognized it in the edict with which he set the boundaries of the four best winemaking areas of Tuscany, in 1716. In terms of composition, Carmignano is, like most other Tuscan reds, based on Sangiovese. Specifically:

• Sangiovese at least 50%
• Canaiolo Nero up to 20%
• Cabernet Franc and/or Cabernet Sauvignon, from 10 to 20%
• Trebbiano Toscano, Canaiolo Bianco, and Malvasia del Chianti up to 10%
• Other red varietals authorized by the Province of Prato, up to 10%

The Cabernet merits a brief aside: It has long been grown in the area, and indeed Cosimo III, who called it Uva Francesca, planted some in his vineyards.

The vineyards are located in the Communes of Carmignano and Poggio a Caiano, on hillsides whose elevations range between 50 and 200 meters above sea level; this is lower than Chianti Classico, where the elevations range from 200 to 600 meters above sea level, and as a result daytime temperatures are warmer during the summer months. This hastens the ripening and therefore the harvest, which is usually a couple of weeks ahead of Chianti Classico's.

Carmignano is also just a few miles from the higher peaks of the Apennines, and because of this proximity it gets the night breezes, which bring temperatures down sharply, thus guaranteeing good temperature excursions that help the bouquet to develop. These mountains also bring the occasional summer thunderstorm, the rainfall from which, according to Capezzana's Count Ugo Contini Bonaccossi, helps maintain balance in the vineyards and further promotes ripening.

The maximum allowable yield for Carmignano DOCG is 8 metric tons per hectare, with a yield into wine of 70%. The basic Carmignano wine ages for 2 years, one of which in wood, prior to release, whereas Carmignano Riserva ages for 3 years, two of which in wood. The choice of wood type -- barrique, tonneau, or botte grande -- is up to the winemaker. The aging potential of Carmignano is similar to that of Chianti Classico: The basic wines are usually best when drunk 3-5 years after the harvest, though they can age much longer in exceptional vintages, while the Riserva generally ages well, for up to 15 years.

In addition to Carmignano DOCG, the region's producers also make several DOC wines. The most intriguing, from a historical standpoint, is Vin Ruspo (literally, stolen wine), a wine patterned after the wine the share-croppers used to make on the sly, by taking the last load of grapes home each day of the harvest, and keeping the juices that ran from the baskets during the night. It's a dry, fruity rosé. There is also Barco Reale, a lighter red named after a walled Medici Family hunting preserve located in Carmignano; it's designed to be drunk sooner than Carmignano, and is similar to Rosso di Montalcino in this respect. And finally, there is Vinsanto, the traditional Tuscan dessert wine made from white grapes allowed to dry on straw mats until mid-winter before they're pressed.

Before we get to the wines, a couple of words on the vintages:

Some of the whites and the Vin Ruspo are from the 2008 vintage, which was a bit weaker than the 2007 or the 2006. Pleasant, but with less depth and richness to them. The remaining whites, Vin Ruspo, Barco Reale, and some of the Carmignano are from the 2007 vintage, which is a bit more high strung than the 2006 was -- nice fruit, but also lively rather aggressive tannins, which make for brasher wines. They do drink quite well with foods, and the Carmignano also has nice aging potential. There is also 2006 Carmignano and Carmignano Riserva; 2006 was a good vintage, and the wines display lively fruit coupled with nice tannic structure and nimble acidity. They also have the potential to age nicely for a number of years, especially the Riserva wines.

The Wines, Tasted Blind on June 1 2009

Podere il Sassolo
Via di Citerna 5
Carmignano (PO)
055 870 5983

Podere il Sassolo Barco Reale di Carmignano DOCG 2007
Dusky ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is young, and vinous, with bright berry fruit supported by dusky greenish accents mingled with some savory accents. On the palate it's light, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have some underlying greenish bitterness, and by mineral acidity that flows into a clean vegetal finish with underlying minerality. Simple, direct, and pleasant; it will drink well with grilled meats, light stews, and also with hearty meat or red sauced pasta dishes.
1 stars

Podere il Sassolo Carmignano DOCG 2006
Deft almandine with almandine in the rim too. The bouquet is fresh, and vinous, with warm tart berry fruit acidity and some spice; there's also brambly underpinning, and it's fairly aggressive. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that do have a slight Sangiovese burr, and flow into a clean fairly bitter finish. Pleasant in a medium bodied scrappy key, and will drink quite well with grilled meats, light stews and such; it also has the acidity necessary for fried foods. A fine food wine that will go quickly.
2 stars

Fattoria Ambra

Fattoria Ambra Vin Ruspo DOCG 2008
Pale salmon pink with bright pink reflections and rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cut flowers and some greenish accents mingled with spice and mentholated notes. On the palate it's bright, with considerable minerality more than fruit, supported by spice and clean fresh tannins that flow into a slightly greenish finish.
1 star

Fattoria Ambra Barco Reale di Carmignano DOCG 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with dusky black reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with minerality and graphite shaving bitterness mingled with vegetal accents and some red berry fruit. On the palate it's fairly rich, with ample rather lax forest berry fruit supported by greenish acidity and moderately intense rather green tannins that flow into a long greenish finish. It is, as I said, lax; I'd have liked more tightness and definition to the acidity and the tannic structure, which accompany the fruit but don't seem to have a firm grip on where they're going.
1 star

Fattoria Ambra Santa Cristina In Pilli Carmignano DOCG 2007
Deep pigeon blood ruby with violet accents and some purple in the rim. The bouquet is fresh, with violets and some bitter pencil shavings mingled with some slight vegetal accents and forest berry fruit. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich plum cassis fruit supported by moderate acidity and clean sweet tannins that have a slightly bitter cedar laced underpinning, and flow into a fairly bitter finish. More international in style, and needs a year to settle and absorb the wood; it is more soft in style and will work well with drier meats or could be sipped by the glass. If you like the style you will enjoy it, if you're more aggressive in your tastes it will work less well for you.
2 stars

Fattoria Ambra Eliziana Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with graphite shavings but not much fruit. On the palate it's fairly light, and dry, with moderate berry fruit supported by slight mineral acidity and by tannins that have a warm cedary underpinning with lasting bitterness that carries into the finish. I found it to be lacking in fruit.
1 star

Fattoria Ambra Vigne Alte Montalbiolo Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and young, with red berry fruit supported by spice and cedar with some savory greenish accents; it gives an impression of being in the process of coming together. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright sour cherry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity that has fairly strong vegetal overtones, and by smooth dusky cedar laced tannins that flow into a clean sour finish. It's young and needs time, a year at least, to get its bearings and figure out what it wants to do with itself. If it comes together well, it will age nicely for a decade or more, in a lacy key.
2 stars

Fattoria Ambra Vin Santo di Carmignano DOCG 2002
Tawny amber tending towards Moroccan leather; it's the darkest and brownest of the vinsanti poured. The bouquet is intense, with cedar and warmth mingled with green walnut skins and some aldehydes, also greenish notes and shellac, while there is underlying dried fruit, in particular dates. On the palate it's ample, with rich brown sugar sweetness supported by deft dried apricot acidity that flows into a long clean walnut skin laced finish with lasting warmth and brown sugar sweetness underpinning. Pleasant, and will be nice with friends far from the table, or with a book by the fire. It has a lot to say.
2 stars

Fattoria di Bacchereto
Fattoria di Bacchereto Terre a Mano Carmignano DOCG 2007
Pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly aggressive, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by brambly acidity and some cedar, with underlying peppery spice and a fair amount of alcohol. Nice in a rather scrappy key. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by deft sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are smoother than I expected, and flow into a clean sour cherry finish. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well with grilled meats, light stews, and also has the wherewithal to work well with fried meats and vegetables. Versatile, and will go quickly; Worth seeking out if you like the style.
2 stars

Podere Allocco
Podere Allocco Barco Reale di Carmignano DOCG 2007
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to white. The bouquet is Fairly rich, with greenish accents and vegetal notes, mingled with spice, some mentholated balsam, and warmth; with more swishing some berry fruit also emerges, but the basic balsamic warm vegetal cast continues. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with moderately rich slightly greenish cherry plum fruit supported by moderate bitter acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a smooth slightly greenish berry fruit finish with lasting bitterness. Direct, and a touch duskier than I would have liked, though it will drink well with drier meats and similar; I'd also be tempted to serve it with meatballs or an Italian meatloaf.
1 star

Podere Allocco Carmignano DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with petroleum-laced red berry fruit supported by greenish accents and a fair amount of bitterness; with swishing the petroleum resolves into more balsamic notes, and there's a brooding quality to it. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly bright berry fruit supported by deft slightly greenish acidity, and by tannins that are a little thinner than I might have expected, and flow into a fresh bitter berry fruit finish. It will drink well with foods, and is pleasant in a direct, upfront sort of way. I would drink it now to enjoy its freshness.
1 star

Fattoria di Artimino
Fattoria Artimino Rosato di Carmignano Vin Ruspo DOCG 2008
Pale salmon pink with salmon reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish accents and spice mingled with some underbrush; there's less fruit than in some of the others. On the palate it's bright, with tart acidity and moderate berry fruit supported by some greenish accents and spice, flows into clean bright berry fruit finish.
1 star

Fattoria Artimino Villa Artimino Carmignano DOCG 2007
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is muted; swishing brings up savory accents and some underbrush mingled with minerality and vegetal notes; not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with light rather tart berry fruit supported by warm mineral acidity and tannins that are light and glancing, and flow into a clean fairly dry bitter finish. It's not as fruit driven as some -- less concentration, less richness -- but because of its acidity will work well with succulent grilled meats along the lines of ribs, and also with fried meats and vegetables. Expect it to go quickly in the proper setting.
1 star

Fattoria Artimino Barco Reale di Carmignano DOCG 2007
Lively ruby with black reflections and pale rim. The bouquet is bright, with lively tart berry fruit supported by clean greenish accents andspice; there's a cheeky welcoming quality to it, and it is pleasant to sniff, in a lively zesty key. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by greenish acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright cherry red currant finish with vegetal underpinning and some tannic accents. A lark of a wine, which will be quite nice with simple first course dishes, and also work well as an aperitif with meat based antipasti, or at a cookout Expect it overtones go quickly, and you may want a second bottle.
2 stars

Fattoria Artimino Vigna Grumarello Carmignano DOCG 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with dusky cedar and some blackish accents, supported by savory notes, but not much fruit. On the palate it's moderately intense, with ample rather generic berry fruit supported by some greenish brambly acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly soft bitter finish with brambly underpinning. It's a bit settled, and the structure is carrying things more than the fruit.
1 star

Fattoria Artimino Villa Medicea Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with almandine in the rim. The bouquet is intense, and extremely vegetal, with a mixture of artichoke and asparagus greenness -- beyond bell pepper -- underlain by mineral graphite bitterness. Eye opening. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense vegetal laced berry fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity -- enough to provide direction -- and by smooth sweet tannins that fade more than flow into the finish, which declines, with vegetal accents. It seems to be from a cooler vintage, and one has the impression that the grapes didn't ripen as well as they might have. This said, if you like this sort of intensely vegetal wine, it does display a certain grace.
2 stars

Fattoriadi Artimino Vin Santo di Carmignano DOCG 2005
Pale tawny amber with apricot reflections and rim with some hints of gold. The bouquet is intense, with oatmeal and brown sugar mingled with dates and some dried figs, also walnut skins and some spice supported by a fair amount of alcohol and some dried fruit, in particular apricots, and saddle leather. Considerable concentration and quite a bit going on. On the palate it's ample, and softer than I might have expected from the some, with fairly rich brown sugar and oatmeal supported by walnut skin bitterness that advances deliberately; it brings to mind a whale flowing below the surface, and flows into a fairly long, warm, but not really acidic finish with brown sugar and date sweetness laced with some walnut skin savory bitterness. It's laxer than some Vinsanti, and also more brooding, but does have a story to tell, and if you like vinsanto you'll find it interesting.
2 stars

Tenuta La Borriana
Tenuta La Borriana Rosato di Carmignano Vin Ruspo DOCG 2008
Pale salmon pink with white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with red berry fruit supported by some pungent cut flowers and moderate mentholated spice. On the palate it's ample, with sour berry fruit supported by vegetal minerality and spice, and by dusky tannins that flow into a warm dusky finish with some greenish accents. It's a bit more aggressive than some of the rosati, and if you like the style it will work well wit cold cuts, or as an aperitif, or with white meats.
1 star

Tenuta La Borriana Barco Reale di Carmignano DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with bitter berry fruit supported by greenish accents and graphite shavings, and also some bitter spice that has spice overripe accents. On the palate it's bright, with tarter, more sour than expected cherry fruit supported by vegetal bitterness and some peppery spice, also some cedar, which flows into a clean rather bitter finish. Nose and palate are going in slightly different directions, though the overall impression is successful; it will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and also has the wherewithal to work well with fried meats and vegetables; it's a wine that won't work as well if you like smooth well polished wines, but will go nicely with foods.
2 stars

Tenuta La Borriana Carmignano DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and paler rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with dusky berry fruit supported by some cedar and also lacquer; the other things are more evident than the fruit. On the palate it's ample and rather bitter, with moderate sour berry fruit --cherry and some black currant -- supported by some berry fruit acidity and tannins that have a dusky graphite burr, and flow into a bitter finish. It's quite young, and needs another year for the tannins to finish folding in; this said, I'd have liked a little more richness of fruit, because the bitterness of the tannins overshadows things. It will in any case drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and is fairly up front.
1 star

Podere Piaggia
Via Cegoli 47
59016 Poggio a Caiano
Tel 055/8705363

Piaggia Il Sasso Carmignano DOCG 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, with lively berry fruit supported by greenish vegetal acidity and some spice with hints of dried mushrooms as well. Nice balance. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright, ripe cherry and forest berry fruit supported by dusky berry fruit acidity laced with bitterness and underbrush, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright fairly tart finish that's also long. Nice, and will drink quite well with grilled meats or light stews now, while also having the legs to age well for 6-10 years. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Piaggia Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish vegetal accents and fairly intense berry fruit supported by spice and some cedar. It's quite young, and needs another year. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry and forest berry fruit supported by clean dusky berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that gain definition from dusky graphite bitterness, and flow into a clean fresh cherry fruit finish with underlying tannic bitterness. It's quite young, a child in the woods, and needs another couple of years for things to come together, at which point it will be graceful in a rich international key, and also age well for a decade or more. Worth seeking out if you like the style, and even if you're more traditionally minded you'll find things to think about.
2 stars

Piaggia Poggio de'Colli IGT Toscana 2007
This is a Cabernet Franc
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit supported by greenish accents and underbrush, with underlying graphite shavings. Nice balance and rich, in a youthful key; it's clearly still coming together and developing. On the palate it's ample, with rich smooth berry fruit supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish; it's not quite a starlet in a glass but definitely more voluptuous in style than most of the wines from this area, and if you like this rich fruit driven style you will enjoy it. Considerably, and it will age well for a decade or more.
2 stars

Tenuta le Farnete
Tenuta Le Farnete Barco Reale di Carmignano DOCG 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with jammy graphite laced berry fruit supported by some vegetal accents and a certain coolness that brings dappled shade to mind. Fairly direct, too. On the palate it's ample, with soft ripe cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and moderately intense vegetal acidity that flow into a tart to sour finish. It's direct, and an easy to drink simple wine that will work well with meat based pasta dishes, simple grilled meats, and light stews; this said, a little more tightness to the acidity would have been nice.
1 star

Tenuta Le Farnete Carmignano DOCG 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit laced with petroleum at first swish, which opens into vegetal-balsamic accents, with underlying acidity and some pencil shavings as well, also rubber. Quite young, but interesting. On the palate it's bright, with clean fresh sour cherry fruit supported by citric laced berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish. It's a good food wine that will drink well with hearty meat-based pasta dishes, succulent grilled meats, including chicken with the skin, and also with light stews. Expect the bottle to go quickly.
2 stars

Tenuta Le Farnete Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some cherry fruit with slight vegetal accents. On the palate it's ample and fairly languid, with cherry fruit supported by sour cherry and currant acidity that flows into a clean tart finish with up bitterness; the tannins are fairly smooth, though there is a slight cedar overlay to them. It's ample, in a fairly direct key, and though I generally prefer wines that are tighter and more closely defined, it will drink well with succulent grilled meats. Because of its relative softness I'm not sure how long it will age for.
1 star

Pratesi
Pratesi Locorosso Barco Reale di Carmignano DOCG 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and pyrope rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with dusky bitterness and vegetal accents mingled with graphite shavings and ripe bitterness, also plum cherry fruit and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry and forest berry fruit supported by some greenish accents and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly greenish berry fruit finish with lasting bitterness. Pleasant, in a direct key, and will work quite well with simple grilled meats or light stews. What you see is what you get, and it will go quickly with foods.
2 stars

Pratesi Vigna di Carmio Carmignano DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with violet reflections and purple cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar and berry fruit; the interaction brings the glue I used to use to assemble models to mind, and there is also some peppery underlying spice. On the palate it's ample, with moderate dusky berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a dusky cedary bitterness to them, and by slight acidity that flows into a bitter finish. I'd have liked greater concentration of fruit.
1 star

Pratesi Carmione IGT Toscana 2006
A Bordeaux blend, 50 Cabernet Sauvignon, 10 Cabernet Franc and 40 Merlot
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and pyrope rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing does bring up some pencil shavings and spice. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with considerable bitterness and some sour accents, but, again, less fruit than I would have liked. Oak carries it.
1 star

Fattoria Le Ginestre
Fattoria Le Ginestre Rosato di Carmignano Vin Ruspo DOCG 2008
Pale salmon with white rim. The bouquet is distinctly green, with vegetal accents and some spice supported by berry fruit and a fair amount of alcohol. More charged and much more vegetal than some. On the palate it's ample and bright, with lively tart red currant fruit supported by brisk acidity and light tannins that flow into a tart finish. Pleasing in a cheeky sort of way, and will be quite nicely with meat based risotti, cold cuts, and similar, will also be a good cookout wine.
2 stars

Fattoria Le Ginestre Barco Reale di Carmignano DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents and spice mingled with vegetal accents and some cedar. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich greenish berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, with a slight splintery greenish burr, and flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish. Pleasant, in a fairly aggressive key, and will drink quite well with succulent grilled meats, e.g. spare ribs or chicken with the skin, or lamb chops, and will also work nicely with fried meats and vegetables. In a word, scrappy, and if you like the style it has quite a bit to say.
2 stars

Fattoria Le Ginestre Carmignano DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and bitter, with leathery accents and spice mingled with greenish notes and charcoal; there's also a degree of artichoke vegetal accents in the bitterness. Not much fruit however. On the palate it's ample, with richer than expected rather lithe cherry and forest berry fruit supported by languid black currant acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fruit laced finish. The nose is behind the palate, which is pleasant in a scrappy key but a little lighter than I might have hoped for. I would give the nose a year to catch up, and drink it with meat based pasta dishes, lesser grilled meats, or perhaps rich legume based dishes along the lines of fagioli all'uccelletoo, tomatoey beans with sausages.
1 star

Fattoria Le Ginestre Vin Santo di Carmignano DOCG 2003
Pale tawny amber with dried apricot reflections and leathery slightly greenish rim. The bouquet is intense, with dried walnut -- the wood more than the nut -- supported by spice and graphite shavings, hints of eraser, and also a fair amount of alcohol. Unusual, but one of Vinasnto's hallmarks is its variability. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich brown sugar sweetness laced with walnut skin bitterness that has some dried leather accents, and is supported by moderate acidity that flows into a warm sweet brown sugar finish with tart, almost smoky overtones. It's pleasant, though a vinsanto more for lovers of vinsanto than those who have little experience with the genre; if you are willing to listen it does have a tale to tell, but you have to be willing to sit and give it time.
2 stars

Castelvecchio
Castelvecchio Vin Ruspo DOCG 2008
Pale pink with brilliant pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is bright, with sour red currant fruit supported by some greenish accents and mentholated spice. Pleasant and lively. On the palate it's rich, with deft cherry red currant fruit supported by lively lemony currant acidity, and by slight, smooth, sweet tannins that flow into a bright finish. Graceful, and will work well as an aperitif or with cold cuts, and also with hearty meat based risotti, white meats, and similar. Expect the bottle to go quickly.
2 stars

Castelvecchio Barco Reale di Carmignano DOCG 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is frankly vegetal, with greenish accents and cut hay mingled with some brambly notes and slight cedar, also savory accents and bitterness. On the palate it's ample, with bright slightly greenish cherry and forest berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and brisk slightly vegetal acidity that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Graceful, in a bright fruit driven key, and will drink quite well with grilled meats -- it will be nice at a cookout --or light stews, and will also work well with fried meats and vegetables. Expect the bottle to go quickly if you like the style, and you may want a second bottle.
2 stars

Castelvecchio Carmignano DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit supported by dusky cedar and hardwood ash. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by bright berry fruit acidity, which leads into a clean bright berry fruit finish. Pleasant, and will drink well with succulent grilled meats.
2 stars

Castelvecchio Vin Santo di Carmignano DOCG 2005
Pale tawny amber with dried apricot reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, with considerable alcohol and bitter green walnut skin, what's called mallo di noce in Italian, laced with alcohol and some greenish accents, and underlying aldehydes and hints of green watermelon rind. Quite a bit going on in a more youthful key that brings tightly drawn muscles to mind. On the palate it's full, with rich languid bitter walnut fruit supported by some sweetness, and by bright walnut acidity that flows into a long bitter walnut finish with considerable warmth. A more bitter rendition of vinsanto, and though it is sweet, the bitterness does remain, with warmth, and carries at length. It's more particular and more demanding, a style that requires the attention of the drinker, and is therefore more aimed at the vinsanto fan than some others.
2 stars

Tenuta Capezzana
Tenuta Capezzana Trebbiano di Capezzana IGT Toscana 2006
Brassy yellow with lemon peel reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with acidity and butterscotch mingled with spice and some greenish accents; it's quite charged, and if you like the style, which is rather extreme, it is pleasant. On the palate it's ample, with rich minerality laced with greenish accents and some tart lemony fruit that flows into a clean fairly rich greenish finish; the palate reflects the nose and there is a degree of languidity to it; it's an extreme wine, with quite a bit of oak and much concentration, and you have to like the style to enjoy it. If you don't it won't work as well for you. Takes no quarter.
2 stars

Tenuta di Capezzana Vin Ruspo DOCG 2008
Pale salmon pink with salmon reflections. The bouquet is bright, with lively dusky raspberry fruit supported by greenish accents and some brambly acidity. Nice balance. On the palate it's light, with fairly lively cherry and raspberry fruit supported by clean bright raspberry acidity, and flows into a clean bright tart sour berry fruit finish. Pleasant in a light zesty key and will be quite nice either as an aperitif with cheese or egg based antipasti, or as a cookout wine; will also work well with flavorful fish or white meats.
2 stars

Tenuta Capezzana Barco Reale di Carmignano DOCG 2008
Deep pyrope with black reflections and ruby rim; it's close to poured ink. The bouquet is powerful and quite fresh, with vegetal accents mingling with violets and dusky spice; it's voluptuous and quite fresh. On the palate it's ample, with rich vegetal laced berry fruit that has some yellow peach accents -- something that can happen in a red -- supported by fairly bright greenish berry fruit acidity, bramble, and smooth sweet tannins that have leafy undertones, and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. Pleasant, in a very young key, and will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and also will work well as a cookout wine, though there's a bit too much going on for it to work with a picnic. If you like this rather voluptuous fruit-and-floral style you will enjoy it, and I would drink it now to enjoy its freshness.
2 stars

Tenuta Capezzana Villa Capezzana Carmignano DOCG 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with fairly bitter cedar laced berry fruit supported by some graceful spice and vegetal underpinning, also some sea salt and savory accents. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by dusky acidity and bitter tannins that have a graphite shaving underpinning supported by alcohol as well, and it flows into a clean fairly long sour berry fruit finish with alcoholic warmth and bitterness. Pleasant, in a middle of the road key, and will drink well with succulent grilled meats or stews, also with game. Direct, unassuming, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. It will also age nicely for 5-8 years.
2 stars

Tenuta Capezzana Treffiano Carmignano DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, and a bit rustic, with barnyard tang amingled with sour brambly acidity and savory notes. Nice balance, but you have to like the style. On the palate it's ample, with bright cherry fruit supported by dusky sour berry fruit acidity and by smooth fairly sweet tannins that do have some cedar accents, a feature of youth -- they're not polished -- and flow into a clean tart berry fruit finish. Graceful in a frankly traditional old style key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it, much even, because it will drink well now with succulent red meats, be they stewed, from the grill, or out of the oven, and it also promises to be long lived. If you like the style, it's worth seeking out. If you like smoother softer fruitier (on the nose) wines it won't work as well for you.
2 stars

Tenuta Capezzana Ghiaie della Furba IGT Toscana 2004
60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 20% Syrah
Deep pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim; almost poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense, with green leather and underbrush mingled with plum cherry fruit and dusky bitterness, not quite graphite, but more wet chestnut leaves. Brooding. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich tart cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a clean bright sour berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. Graceful, in a rather scrappy aggressive key, and if you like the style, with its tart fruit, bright acidity, and slightly greenish tannins, it will drink very well with grilled meats or hearty stews or roasts in the short term, and will also age well for a decade or more. Worth seeking out if you like the style.
2 stars

Tenuta Capezzana Vin Santo di Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2003
Tawny amber with bright apricot reflections and some amber in the rim. The bouquet is powerful, with considerable walnut rind and some aldehydes mingled with sweetness and greenish accents that confer a haunting feel to the wine. Quite young too, and gives an impression of being in mid stride. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful fig and date fruit supported by considerable brown sugar sweetness that gains direction from dried apricot acidity, and flows into a long brown sugar and date sweetness finish with definition from deft, lacy spice, and some walnut skins with hints of nut crunch. Quite pleasant, and eminently approachable; if you are new to vinsanto it's an excellent introduction to the genre, and offers all sorts of things to think about.
88-90

Colline San Biagio
Colline San Biagio Sancti Blasii Carmignano DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with sour berry fruit laced with graphite shavings and hints of balsam; there's also some leathery cedar. On the palate it's ample, and more sour than I had expected, with bright sour berry fruit supported by sour greenish red currant acidity, and by bitter vegetal tannins that flow into a clean greenish finish with tannic underpinning. It's aggressive, and tart; if you like the style, it will work quite well with succulent grilled meats or hearty stews, fried meats even, but you do have to like the style. If you're partial to smoother wines it won't work for you.
2 stars

Tenuta di Bagnolo
Marchesi Pancrazi Pinot Nero Villa di Bagnolo IGT Toscana 2007
Deep almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is dusky, with savory accents and some tart, brambly berry fruit supported by almost reedy acidity and some minerality as well. It's a distinct break with the other wines, but not unpleasant, and I find myself wondering if it's Pancrazi's Pinot Nero. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright finish. Pleasant, and will drink well with lesser grilled meats, or light stews, and also has the wherewithal to age well for a number of years, becoming lacy with time. Quite enjoyable, and worth seeking out if you like this rather graceful, delicate style.
2 stars

Marchese Pancrazi Pinot Nero Vigna Baragazza IGT Toscana 2007
Deep almandine with blackish reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with bright greenish berry fruit supported by some cedar and greenish underpinning. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly bright slightly bitter berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and lively sour cherry acidity that flows into a bitter acidic finish. Doesn't feel like Sangiovese; but is graceful in a scrappy key; it will drink well with grilled meats or light stews and also has the wherewithal to work with fried foods.
2 stars