Friday, February 26, 2010

Campriano: This Year's Wines From Ranuccio Neri

While there are advantages to being disorganized -- A.A. Milne once said, "One of the advantages of being disorganized is that one is always having surprising discoveries" -- There are also disadvantages, and one for me is not tasting wines as soon as I should. Ranuccio Neri's Chianti Colli Senesi is a case in point, and I apologize to both Ranuccio and my readership for having gotten to these as slowly as I did. This year I will be quicker.

Campriano Rosato Toscana IGT 2008

Pale rose with white rim. The bouquet is bright, with roses and floral accents mingled with lively brambly raspberry acidity and bright spice from grapes, and also some alcohol. On the palate it's equally bright, with rich cherry raspberry fruit supported by spice and brambly acidity, and also by light tannins that flow into a clean bright bitter berry fruit finish. Graceful and quite pleasant, a wine that will drink very well as an aperitif or with simple grilled meats, pasta dishes, and also soups. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars

Campriano Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva DOCG 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, and brooding, with sour cherry fruit supported by greenish balsamic accents with slight sea salt and slight balsamic acidity. Quite a bit going on, but it blends together nicely. On the palate it's ample, with cherry and forest berry fruit supported by soft sweet tannins and by moderate balsamic acidity, which flow into a clean bitter finish. It's a wine that plays more with finesse and elegance than power, and if you like the style, which is far from the blockbuster style of winemaking you will find that it works very well with grilled meats or light stews, and also will age well for another 5 years at least, becoming lacy with time. Worth seeking out if you like the style.

Campriano Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG 2007
Lively deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim paling to white. The bouquet is intense, with red berry fruit supported by fairly bright acidity and some barnyard tang, stable straw in particular. Harmonious, and also invigorating. On the palate it's bright, with rich cherry fruit supported by slively sour cherry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that do have a slight greenish burr, and flow into a clean bright greenish berry fruit finish. A light, zesty wine that will drink very well with grilled meats, light stews, and also with fried meats and vegetables. It's what a basic Chianti should be, a wine to set on the table and enjoy.
2 stars

Campriano Vinsanto del Chianti DOC 2003
Tawny amber with brownish reflections and slightly greenish rim. The bouquet is powerful, with dark brown sugar mingled with acidity, spice, and walnut skins. Quite rich, with a lot going on, and harmonious too; it has a power that comes from a hot vintage to it. On the palate it's rich, and very sweet, with elegant creamy brown sugar sweetness laced with slight bitterness, and it all flows into a long sweet finish. It s a child of a hot vintage, clearly, because there isn't much acidity and the sweetness carries it. This said, it is quite pleasant, and if you like this style of Vinsanto, which brings Montepulciano and its sweetness to mind, you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Want to know more about Campriano? Check Ranuccio's Site.

No comments: