Wednesday, April 07, 2010

Bardolino Chiaretto and Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante: The 2009 Vintage


Verona has managed the difficult trick of boasting two great red wines made from the same grapes that are totally different: Valpolicella and Bardolino. Bardolino, which is produced in the lower hills to the west of Valpolicella, along the shore of Lake Garda, is a lighter, livelier wine than its cousin, and is one of the classic Italian quaffing wines.

Bardolino is also home to Chiaretto, which is also made from the same grapes: It's a light rosé that is ideally suited to summer dining, be it indoors or out doors, and I spent the first day of the Bardolino vintage presentation tasting Bardolino Chiaretto and Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante, which is (with one notable exception) a light sparkling rosé.

In terms of numbers, Bardolino Chiaretto is a serious wine: about 10 million bottles were produced in 2009, while this year the production was more, about 15 million. Some producers plant vineyards specifically for Chiaretto, harvesting and pressing the grapes, macerating the must briefly upon the skins, and then racking it into the fermentation tanks when it has achieved the desired color. Others instead bleed off some of the must from the tanks immediately after everything is pressed, before the skins have had time to impart color, and make Bardolino Chiaretto with it while producing the regular red Bardolino from the remainder.
Both techniques give good results, producing wines that are light and fruity, and that will drink very well chilled, which is what Bardolino Chiaretto is all about.

A couple of words about the 2009 vintage: It was difficult, with a very hot July that drove up alcohol levels by increasing sugar content, and in some areas interfered wit phenolic ripening because it brought drought stress. In this respect it resembled 2003, and we were told that the winemakers who delayed the harvest were wise in hindsight, because there were fall rains that conferred acidity to the grapes.

Here we have the 2009 Bardolino Chiaretto, and Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante, tasted March 6 2010. I will post my impressions of the 2009 Bardolino next week upon my return from Vinitaly.

The Wines, Tasted in Lazise, on Lake Garda:

Fulvio Benazzoli

Fulvio Benazzoli Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante DOC 2009


Pale rose with fine white perlage. The bouquet is delicate and vinous, with savory herbal accents, rosemary in particular, and sea salt mingled with tart acidity. On the palate it's light, and brisk, with bitter minerality more than fruit supported by sparkle and mineral acidity that flow into a clean savory finish. Quite direct and up front, and will be nice at poolside or at a cookout, and also as an aperitif. Refreshing, and ideal for summer.

2 stars

Fulvio Benazzoli Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2009

Rosy pink with bright slightly salmon reflections and pale rose rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some savory notes and pleasant floral accents and hints of roses mingled with some berry fruit. On the palate it's pleasant, with fairly direct white plum fruit supported by dusky savory minerality that flows into a slightly bitter savory finish. It's pleasant in an approachable key, and bill be nice as an aperitif or with summer recipes.

1 star

Bergamini

Bergamini Iride Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante 2009


Pale pink with rosy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fresh, with roses and slight hints of sweetness mingled with tart brambly accents. Deft. On the palate it's mineral, with brisk acidity supported by peppery sparkle, and flows into a clean fresh rather bitter finish. Up front and direct, a wine that will drink well at a cookout or in the summer months, and is refreshing.

1 star

Bergamini Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2009

Pale rose with brilliant orangish rosy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with vinous accents mingled with savory notes and slight berry fruit, a mixture of raspberries and currants. On the palate it's direct, with clean bright minerality mingled with hints of tart berry fruit that has a bitter underpinning, and flows into a clean rather bitter finish. Direct and up front, and will drink nicely with lighter summer dishes.
1 star

Cá Bottura

Cá Bottura Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante DOC 2009


Pale salmon with orangeish reflections. The bouquet is a bit musty, with some bitter accents and hints of wet cardboard; it has just been filtered and hasn't recovered yet. On the palate it's bright, with bitter savory raspberry fruit supported by peppery sparkle. Quite direct, and will drink well as an aperitif or with simple cookout foods. Expect it to go quickly.

1 star

Cá Bottura Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2009

Lively pinkish rose with bright rosy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with minerality and as it opens pleasant floral accents. Up front. On the palate it's direct, with moderately intense minerality more than fruit supported by some mineral acidity that flows into a clean bright finish. Simple, direct, and up front.

1 star

Cantina di Castelnuovo del Garda

Cantina di Castelnuovo Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante DOC 2009

Pale salmon with brilliant salmon reflections and fine white perlage. The bouquet is moderately intense, with delicate roses and hints of raspberry mingled with hints of underbrush. On the palate it's fresh, with moderately intense rather sour brambly berry fruit supported by brambly acidity and peppery notes from the sparkle, flowing into a brambly finish. Quite direct and up front, a wine that will work well with cookout foods or be nice at a picnic.
1 star

Cantina di Castelnuovo Rubens Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2009

Pale pinkish with bright pink highlights and white rim. The bouquet is muted and a bit earthy at first swish, with some greenish accents as well and mineral acidity. Not much fruit. On the palate it's languid, with fairly bright sour berry fruit acidity that has an underlying bitterness to provide direction, and flows into a vegetal-laced rather bitter finish. Fairly direct, and will drink well with summer foods, ranging from grilled fish though not too rich grilled meats. Also picnic foods.

1 star

Cantina di Castelnuovo Cà Vegar Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2009

Pale pink with bright pink highlights and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some floral accents mingled with sea salt and some red berry fruit. Nice balance. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright minerality more than fruit, laced with vegetal accents and a slight savory burr that flow into a clean sour finish. Pleasant, and will drink very well with egg or cheese based dishes, and also work well with grilled or fried fish, and with not too fatty summer meat dishes. Expect the bottle to go quickly.

2 stars

Costadoro

Costadoro Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante DOC 2009


Pale salmon with salmon reflections and brilliant salmon reflections and fine white perlage. The bouquet is muted, an effect of recent bottling, though swishing brings up floral accents and slight berry fruit. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich savory berry fruit supported by clean bright acidity and spice; a fellow taster also finds mustard, which is there, and works very well, adding brightness and uplifting (as she says) the fruit . Quite pleasant, and when the nose has caught up with the palate (by June 2010) it will be perfect for a picnic or cookout, and also nice with summer foods enjoyed indoors. Worth seeking out.

2 stars

Costadoro Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2009

Pale rosy pink with salmon reflections and pink rim fading to white. The bouquet is muted at first swish; more swishing brings up slightly greenish vinous accents mingled with some bitterness. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with unexpectedly sweet berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by smooth light tannins that have a slight greenish burr, and flow into a rather bitter finish. It's a bit disjointed, and there's a lumbering quality to it; I would have hoped for more grace and elegance.

1 star

Monte Oliveto

Monte Oliveto Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante DOC 2009


Pale salmon with brilliant salmon reflections and fine white perlage. The bouquet is intense, with roses mingled with some savory accents and bright raspberry fruit; the overall impression is quite graceful On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich mineral-laced savory berry fruit supported by moderate sparkle, and by bitter accents that flow into a clean rather bitter finish with underlying savory notes and brambly fruit. It's Softer and less aggressive than many, and is quite pleasant to drink; it will perhaps work better than some of the Bardolino Spumante wines as an aperitif, and will also be nice at a picnic or cookout.

2 stars


Monte Oliveto Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2009

Pale salmon with white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some floral accents and slight spice mingled with rather haunting ripe red plum fruit of the variety known as Sangue di Drago, Dragon's Blood, as it opens. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggests, with fairly bright sour forest berry fruit supported by bitterness and some brambly acidity that flow into a clean slightly greenish brambly finish. The nose will be fully ready by summer (2010), at which point it will be pleasant in a fairly rich aggressive key.

2 stars

Roeno

Roeno Mati Rosé Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante DOC 2009

Pale rosy pink with brilliant rosy reflections and fine white perlage. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some savory accents and citric acidity mingled with minerality and slight red berry fruit.. On the palate it's bright, with fresh raspberry and cranberry fruit supported by sparkle and bright citric-mineral acidity that flows into a tingly peppery finish. Pleasant, and will be quite nice lightly chilled on a hot day with picnic foods, or at a cookout, and will also be nice to sip with friends who don't want something sweeter and softer. It grew upon me.

2 stars

Tenuta San Leone

Tenuta San Leone Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante DOC 2009


Pale pinkish salmon with bright rosy reflections and fine white perlage. The bouquet is deft, with rosy floral accents mingled with some herbal notes, slight underbrush, and berry fruit acidity. On the palate it's direct, with minerality and spice supported by peppery sparkle that flows into a clean peppery finish. A pleasingly up front wine that will work well at a picnic or cookout wine, and will also be a nice aperitif.

1 star

Tenuta San Leone Bardolino Chiaretto Monte Salgar 2009 DOC

Lively black almandine with dusky ruby reflections and rim that pales to pinkish ruby. The bouquet is fairly rich, and jammy, with berry fruit mingled with berry fruit jam and some greenish mentholated accents. Nice balance, and it seems fairly sweet. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by a degree of sweetness and by moderate acidity, while the tannins are smooth and flow into a rather soft plum cherry finish. It's riper than many and also softer, and if you like the smoother, softer fruit driven ripe style, you will enjoy it. Keep in mind that it is still a Bardolino, and not a well polished new world Merlot, but it is smoother and softer than average. And more fruit driven.

2 stars

Tre Colline

Tre Colline Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante DOC 2009

Pale salmon with salmon reflections and fine white perlage. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some minerality and vinous accents, and some bitterness as well. On the palate it's direct, with moderately intense minerality and some red berry fruit supported by ground pepper from the sparkle and bitterness that flow into a clean savory bitter finish.

1 star

Tre Colline Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2009

Pale salmon with lively salmon reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some greenish accents. On the palate it's bright, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by peppery spice from a slight petillance, and greenish acidity that flow into a clean rather bitter finish.

1 star

Valetti

Valetti Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante DOC 2009


Pale salmon with salmon reflections and fine white perlage. The bouquet is savory, with hints of wet breadcrumbs and some tart berry fruit supported by bitter accents. On the palate it's ample, and rather soft, with sweetish rosy cherry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity sparkle, which provides a peppery accent, and it all flows into a clean rather sweet finish that is again rather soft. If you prefer a crisper style it won't work for you, but if you prefer slightly softer sparkling wines you will enjoy it.

2 stars

Valetti Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2009

Pale salmon with bright salmon pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some savory accents mingled with greenish vegetal notes, and, as it opens, red berry fruit. On the palate it's fairly rich, with moderately intense sour berry fruit supported by citric acidity and by slightly brambly accents that flow into a clean fairly sour finish that has intriguing, and lasting forest berry fruit undertones. Pleasant, in an approachable middle of the road key that's neither settled nor aggressive, and will drink nicely with summer foods, or -- if lightly chilled -- at poolside even.

2 stars

Vigneti Villabella

Vigneti Villabella Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante DOC 2009


Pale pinkish rose with some orange reflections and salmon highlights, also fine white perlage. The bouquet is delicate, with floral accents mingled with some red berry fruit and slight berry fruit acidity. On the palate it's fresh, and crisp, with minerality more than berry fruit supported by peppery spioce from the sparkle, which leads into a bright mineral finish that again gains life from the sparkle. It's quite approachable, in a crisp zesty key, and up front as well, a wine that will work well with foods and be a good option if you want to serve a sparkling wine at a cookout or picnic.

1 star

Vigneti Villabella Pozzo Dell'Amore Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2009

Pale salmon with salmon reflections and onionskin rim. The bouquet is muted at first swish, of the nobody hone variety, though more swishing brings up some savory accents mingled with greenish vegetal notes. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with moderately intense bitter minerality more than fruit supported by sour acidity and it all flows into a fairly tart finish. I'd have liked more brightness and oomph.

1 star

Villa Medici

Villa Medici Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante DOC 2009


Pale salmon with salmon reflections and fine white perlage. The bouquet is moderately intense,with savory accents and some red berry fruit supported by hints of underbrush and mineral acidity. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright mionerlaity more than fruit supported by sparkle that confers and airy mineral acidity to it, and it all flows into a clean rather spicy finish. Up front and direct in a wide-eyed-teen sort of way, and it will work well with summer foods, at a cookout or picnic too.

2 stars

Villa Medici Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2009

Salmon with orange reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up brambles and some savory currant fruit laced with sour greenish vegetal accents. On the palate it's bright, with savory berry fruit supported by peppery petiallnce and by sour bitterness that flow into a sour berry fruit finish. Quite aggressive, in a young key, and will work well with grilled fish or meats, and also fried meats and or fish and vegetables. You have to like the style.

1 star

Monte Saline

Monte Saline Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante Metodo Classico


This is a metodo classico (i.e. the sparkle is from bottle fermentation), and non-vintage, but disgorged in 2009.It's pale salmon with brilliant salmon reflections and intense fine perlage that, as one might expect from a metodo classico, is more persistent. The bouquet is deft, with vinous accents mingled with bread crumbs and some underbrush, also savory accents. On the palate it's ample and bright, with lively sour cherry and currant fruit supported by brambly acidity and savory accents, and by sparkle that adds crispness, and flows into a clean savory finish. Quite approachable in a crisp lively key, and will work very well as an aperitif in the summer months, and also be nice at a picnic or cookout. Worth seeking out.
88-90

Monte Saline Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2009

Pale salmon fading to onionskin on the rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with vegetal notes and greenness mingled with some red berry fruit and spice. On the palate it's not as rich as I had hoped, with moderately intense bitter fruit that flows into a clean rather bitter finish. A bit settled.

1 star


Albino Piona

Albino Piona Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2009


Pale papery onionskin white with salmon reflections and white rim. The bouquet is clean and vinous with some acidity and slight greenish accents. Quite fresh. On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with clean white fruit supported by moderate acidity and a degree of languidity that flow into a languid finish. Not too tart, and quite approachable; if you prefer crisper more aggressive wines it won't work as well for you, but if you prefer softer wines it will. Worth seeking out if you like the style.

2 stars

Aldo Adami

Aldo Adami Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2009

Pale onionskin with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is vinous with white berry fruit and some greenish accents. On the palate it's direct, with moderate minerality supported by equally moderate acidity and some glycerin, which confers a degree of fullness, though the acidity is mild enough that the wine feels settled.

1 star

Bertoldi

Bertoldi Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2009


Pale pink with slight orange highlights and white rim. The bouquet is bright, with fresh roses and clean floral accents mingled with hints of sweetness. Welcoming. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright mineral laced slightly brambly berry fruit supported by mineral acidity that flows into a clean bright finish. Pleasant, and will drink quite nicely with simple summer dishes.
2 stars

Bolla

Bolla Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2009


Fairly rich slightly orange rose with brilliant reflections. The bouquet is bright, with slightly pungent red berry fruit supported by some underbrush and spice. Slightly muscle-bound. On the palate it's fairly bright, with moderately intense sour berry fruit acidity supported by some bitterness, which flows into a fairly direct slightly bitter mineral finish. Direct, and fairly upfront; it's a touch languid and a little more acidity would have given it greater depth.

1 star

Vinicio Bronzo

Vinicio Bronzo Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2009

Pale pink with brilliant pink reflections and slight petillance that brings a hint of sparkle. The bouquet is delicate, with savory berry fruit supported by some berry fruit acidity and some greenish accents. On the palate it's ample and fairly sweet, with moderately intense currant and forest berry fruit that gains definition from the petillance, that adds a sparkle to the palate, and it all flows into a frankly languid finish. It's approachable in a softer key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. If you prefer crisper wines it won't work quite as well for you.

2 stars

Giuseppe Campagnola

Giuseppe Campagnola Roccolo del Lago Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2009

Pale salmon with brilliant salmon rim and onion skin rim. The bouquet is delicate with floral accents and some savory notes, also some spice and slight berry fruit and some underbrush. On the palate it's fairly rich, with sour berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and slight brambly accents mingled with brambly acidity that flows into a clean lasting finish. Pleasant, in a direct key, and because of its acidity will drink very well with risotti or fish-based pasta dishes, and also with creamy white meats, in addition to the more standard summer dishes.

2 stars

Cantina Caorsa

Cantina Caorsa Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2009


Pale pink with pink highlights and white rim. The bouquet is deft, with fresh delicate red berry fruit mingled with floral accents and some greenish acidity. Pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich sour berry fruit supported by bright slightly greenish acidity and deft tannins that flow into a clean rather bitter finish with sour berry fruit acditiy. Pleasant, and will be nice as an aperitif or drunk with grilled fish or meats, and slow with the fixings of a nicely laid out picnic table.

2 stars

Casaretti

Casaretti Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2009

Pale pink with brilliant pink reflections and hints of onionskin in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with rose blossoms mingled with some menthol and hints of savory underbrush and some rather cheeky acidity. On the palate it's bright, with considerable mineral-laced sour fruit that is slightly more languid than I expected, supported by spice that has black pepper accents and brambly acidity that lead into a clean rather sour finish tat has slight almost milky acidic overtones, which may sound strange but work nicely. Pleasant, in a brash and up front key, and will drink nicely with cheese or egg based dishes (frittate come to mind) as well as with fried fish (or meats) and vegetables, and also with grilled or roasted fish. Versatile, and will go well with a wide variety of foods. Worth seeking out.

2 stars

Natale Castellani

Natale Castellani Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2009


Pale pink with pink reflections, white rim, and a fine petillance that leaves a few bubbles and is likely a result of recent bottling. The bouquet is greenish, with some chalky accents and slight spice. On the palate it's ample, with fairly languid sour berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and slight brambly greenish accents that flow into a decidedly savory sour berry fruit finish. It's large, and a touch lax, bringing to mind a big guy who is slouching. A little more depth would have been nice, though it does display a cheekiness that will work well with grilled or fried fish or meats and vegetables.

1 star

Cavalchina

Cavalchina Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2009


Pale pink with some salmon reflections and some onionskin in the rim. The bouquet is vinous, with some floral accents and pungent overtones that mingle with spice form grapes. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright sour red berry fruit supported by brambly greenish accents and some spice that flow into a clean rather bitter brambly finish. It's scrappy, and quite mineral, is the sort of wine that will work well with grilled fish or a platter of mixed fried fish (or meats), and will also be nice at a picnic. If you like wines that are slightly aggressive you will enjoy it. If you prefer smoother softer wines you won't as much.
2 stars

Gerardo Cesari

Gerardo Cesari Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2009

Pale rosy pink with brilliant pink reflections and some onion skin in the rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some greenish vegetal accents supported by vinous notes and some brambles. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with moderate minerality and sour berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity that has greenish bramble accents and flow into a clean brambly finish. The palate is ahead of the nose, and somewhat more interesting; when everything comes together it will be a pleasant food wine that will do a good job of accompanying simple pasta dishes, grilled fish, or fried fish or meats.

1 star

Renato Corradini

Renato Corradini Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2009


Pale pink with slight salmon reflections. The bouquet reveals some savory notes mingled with spice and peppery accents. On the palate it's maple, with bitter minerality more than fruit, supported by peppery spice that flows into a clean rather bitter finish. Fairly direct, and up front.

1 star

Corte Fornello

Corte Fornello Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2009


Pale pink with electric pinkish-violet reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some floral accents and slight sea salt with a spicy vinous underpinning. On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with moderately intense sour berry fruit supported by languid acidity that is more lax than I might have liked, and flows into a clean rather sour berry fruit finish. It's a bit more settled than I might have wanted, and I also found myself craving a bit more savor to contrast the languor.

1 star

Corte Gardoni

Corte Gardoni Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2009


Pale salmon with brilliant reflections and equally pale onionskin rim. The bouquet is muted, with some vinous accents that emerge, grudgingly, with swishing. But not much else. On the palate it's ample, and rather soft, with brambly acidity that flows into a slightly greenish brambly finish: it's a bit lax, and doesn't have that upstanding brashness I hope for in a Chiaretto.

1 star

Corte Gioliare

Corte Gioliare Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2009


Pale salmon with brilliant salmon reflections and onionskin rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with pungent floral accents mingled with sea salt and airy spice; there's also some mineral acidity but not much fruit. But it is harmonious. On the palate it's languid, with greenish sour berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and by slightly brambly accents that flow into a brambly finish. It's not quite as tight as I might have liked, but will drink nicely with simple picnic foods.

1 star

F.lli Marchesini

F.lli Marchesini Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2009


Pale salmon pink with bright pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with savory notes and some spice mingled with pungent greenish accents, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and languid, with fairly rich sour berry fruit supported by brambly mineral acidity and slight sweetness that flow together into a clean sour slightly greenish finish. The palate is more interesting than the nose which will, by June 2010, be more developed; it's quite approachable, and because of the slight sweetness will also work well with more strongly spiced dishes, for example even Thai or Indian that's not too searing.

2 stars

F.lli Zeni

F.lli Zeni Vigne Alte Bardolino Classico Chiaretto DOC 2009


Pale salmon with brilliant brassy pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some greenish accents, hints of sea salt, and also of yellow mustard (the kind a squeeze bottle), whish sounds odd but works nicely; as it opens some floral accents also emerge. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich, riper than expected red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and a degree of slightly bitter languidity that flow into a clean rather sour berry fruit finish. It's ample for a Chiaretto, and a bit soft, but if you like the style, which is much more fruit than mineral, you will enjoy it. In terms of accompaniments, it will work well with summer picnic foods, light grilled fish, and similar.
1 star

Frezza

Frezza Colle San Lorenzo Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2009


Pale salmon with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some savory accents, but not much else. On the palate it's ample, with sour berry fruit that's more intense than I expected, supported by slightly greenish mineral acidity and by moderate tannic structure that flow into a fairly long finish. It's a trifle lax, but welcoming, and will drink well with foods, ranging from grilled white meats and fish through pasta dishes and summer grain salads.

2 stars

Umberto Giarola

Umberto Giarola Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2009

Pale salmon with brilliant reflections and salmon rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish brambly acidity and some underbrush mingled with vinous accents and some spice. On the palate it's ample, and fairly sweet, with plum prune fruit that gains life from slightly greenish acidity and is supported by light tannins as well, and flows into a rather soft slightly bitter finish.

1 star

Susanna e Eugenio Girardelli

Susanna e Eugenio Girardelli Bardolino Classico Chiaretto DOC 2009

Pale pink with bright pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with savory accents mingled with spice and slight barnyard tang. Pleasing and fresh. On the palate it's savory, with fairly rich sour berry fruit supported by brambly acidity that's again savory, and flows into a clean savory finish. Zesty, and will work quite well with grilled fish or meats, and also with fried meats or vegetables. Pleasant in a brash, rather aggressive key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.

2 stars

Giuseppe e Gian Pietro Girardi

Giuseppe e Gian Pietro Girardi Bardolino Classico Chiaretto DOC 2009

Pale salmon with delicate salmon reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with minerality and some savory accents that bring lactic acid to mind. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with moderately intense sour cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity; the overall impression is fairly settled.

1 star

Girasole

Girasole Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2009


Pale rose with bright reflections and white rim. The bouquet is a bit musty, with savory notes that bring seasoned breadcrumbs to mind and some spice. On the palate it's ample, with rather soft minerality and some sourness, but not as much acidity as I would have liked to hold it together and lift it; it is a bit settled and fades in the finish.

1 star

Gorgo

Gorgo Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2009


Pale pink with pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted; swishing brings up some greenish accents mingled with spice and vinous accents. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggests, with fairly rich sour cherry and currant fruit supported by slightly greenish mineral acidity that flows into a clean rather mineral finish with greenish vegetal underpinning. The nose will be more in keeping with the wine by June (2010) and it will drink nicely with grilled meats or fish, and also with fried meats or fish. It grew upon me.

2 stars

Guerrieri Rizzardi

Guerrieri Rizzardi Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2009


Pale pink with brilliant pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with floral accents, rose petals, and some savory menthol as well. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich greenish berry fruit supported by clean mineral acidity and slightly brambly accents that flow into a clean fresh mineral finish with underlying greenish accents. Pleasant, and will work quite well with grilled or fried fish, and also with meats. A good bet for a cookout or picnic, and I found it growing upon me. Nice balance and harmony.

2 stars

Il Pignetto

Il Pignetto Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2009


Pale pink with brilliant pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is a bit musty, with some wet paper mingled with greenish notes; it hasn't recovered form bottling. On the palate it's brighter than one would expect, with fairly rich sour berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity, hints of peppery spice, and by slight sweetness that adds a touch of languor, and flows into a clean sour berry fruit finish. If the nose catches up to the palate it will be pleasant in a middle of the road key.

1 star

La Rocca

La Rocca Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2009


Pale rose with pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some savory accents and slight spice. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with moderately intense minerality supported by bitterness; there's not much fruit to it, and the show is in the interaction between bitterness and minerality, as there isn't too much acidity either. I'd have preferred a little more acidity.
1 star

Le Fraghe

Le Fraghe Ròdon Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2009


Pale pink with pink reflections and onionskin rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with floral accents and roses mingled with savory spice and some berry fruit. On the palate it's lightl with moderate bitter fruit supported by some, but not too much acidity that flows into a fairly butter finish.

1 star

Le Ginestre

Le Ginestre Cà Roina Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2009


Pale rose with lively rosy salmon reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fresh, with candied berry fruit accents mingled with some menthol and a fair amount of alcohol, also some spice. On the palate it's bright, with moderately rich rather green bitter sour berry fruit supported by slight sweetness and bitterness that flow into a clean rather bitter finish. It's pleasant, but in a more aggressive key, and you have to like the brambly greenish acidity it displays in the finish. If you do it will drink well with grilled or fried fish or meats.

2 stars

Le Muraglie

Le Muraglie Birò Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2009

Pale pinkish rose with salmon reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fresh, with rosy floral accents and some red berry fruit mingled with spice. Rather graceful. On the palate it's fairly light, with moderately intense sour berry fruit supported by some acidity and by greenish accents that flow into a clean bitter finish. There's something dusky and shadowed about it; it's not a really bright wine, but the acidity and bitterness woven into the fruit will do a good job of balancing succulent grilled white meats or fish, and also fried meats or fish with vegetables.

2 stars

Le Tende

Le Tende Bardolino Classico Chiaretto DOC 2009


Lively pink with brilliant reflections. The bouquet is rich, with pleasant rosy floral accents supported by red berry fruit and pleasant savory notes, as well as some sour berry fruit acidity. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour berry fruit supported by clean berry fruit acidity that has some greenish accents, and flows into a clean rather sour brambly berry fruit finish. Pleasant, in a bracing rather aggressive but fruity key, and will drink quite nicely with grilled fish, or grilled meats, and also with fried meats and vegetables. In short, a fine summer wine.

2 stars

Lenotti

Lenotti Vigna Le Giare Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2009


Pale pink with brilliant pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is dusky, with clean fresh greenish accents mingled with some greenish berry fruit and savory spice. Pleasant to sniff, and fairly aggressive too. On the palate it's softer than I expected from the nose, with fairly rich sour berry fruit supported by smooth slightly greenish acidity and some brambles, and by bitterness that carries into a clean bright finish. Pleasant, and will drink well with grilled fish or fried meats or fish, and will also be a good be t with other quickly cooked summer dishes. Refreshing, and will go quickly.

2 stars

Marcello Marchesini

Marcello Marchesini Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2009


Pale salmon with salmon reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some red berry fruit supported by greenish accents and some spice, also some floral notes and roses. Nicely balanced. On the palate it's ample, and a bit softer than I might have liked, with moderate berry fruit supported by moderate acidity that flows into a clean sour finish. A little more acidity to pull the strings tighter would have been nice, but it is approachable in a direct way and will do a good job of accompanying foods, and also be nice on a hot summer day lightly chilled.

1 star

Monte Del Frà

Monte Del Frà Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2009


Pale onionskin with white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with floral accents mingled with sweetness and menthol, and also some spice with bitter mineral acidity. Airy. On the palate it's ample, and much sweeter than I might have expected, with moderate cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and a fair amount of sweetness that confers roundness. It's approachable in a softer more fruit driven key, and if you like the style, which brings a blush wine to mind (though it's not that sweet), you will enjoy it.

1 star

Lorenzo Morando

Lorenzo Morando Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2009

Pale salmon with pink reflections and onionskin rim. The bouquet is muted, with some spice mingled with slight greenish accents and hints of lactic acid. It's getting over bring bottled, and needs another 3-4 months. On the palate it's ample, and fairly rich, with bitter minerality and brambly green acidity that flow into a clean brambly finish that's also fairly aggressive. It's a pleasant food wine that will work well with grilled or fried fish, and also has the body to stand up to fried meats and vegetables. In other words, a summer food wine.

2 stars

Pigno

Pigno Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2009


Pale rosy pink with brilliant pink reflections. The bouquet is fairly sweet, with rich rose blossoms and floral notes mingled with some greenish heather. On the palate it's light, with bright sour berry fruit supported by citric acidity and fair bitterness that flow into a clean rather bitter finish. Pleasant, and will drink very well with foods, in particular frilled fish or meats and fried foods, A good summer wine, in short. It grew upon me. Nice tightness.

2 stars

Giorgio Poggi

Giorgio Poggi Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2009


Pale pink with brilliant pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with savory sea salt mingled with spice and some greenish accents, as well as the heather of a cut field. On the palate it's bright, with lively brambly acidity supporting sour berry fruit and slightly brambly light tannins that flow into a clean bitter finish. It's aggressive, and brambly, and if you like this style you will enjoy it. If you prefer less aggressive softer wines it won't work at all for you. In short, it gives no quarter. If you like the style, it will work well with fattier grilled fish, or a platter of fried fish and or meats with vegetabes. But it is a bit extreme.

1 star

Raval

Raval Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2009


Pale rosy pink with pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rich floral accents supported by savory notes and some bitterness. Pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's bright, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by bitter accents and lively berry fruit acidity that flow into a clean bright rather bitter finish. Pleasant, in a scrappy key, and will drink very well with foods.

2 stars

Dante Righetti

Dante Righetti Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2009


Pale pink rose with brilliant slightly orange reflections and white rim. The bouquet is deft, with vinous notes mingled with sea salt and some heather. On the palate it's moderately intent, with sourness more than fruit supported by slight brambly accents that flow into a clean sour finish. I'd have liked a bit more richness to the fruit, though because of its lively acidity it will work well with fried meats or fish and vegetables. In short, a perfect wine for a fritto misto.

1 star

Enzo Righetti

Enzo Righetti Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2009

Elegant rose pink with brilliant pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fresh, with rich rose and other floral accents supported by some sweetness and fresh heather. Nice balance. On the palate it's bright, with lively slightly brambly sour berry fruit supported by brambly acidity and by clean spice that flow into a clean lively finish. Scrappy, with considerable acidity; because of this it's fairly aggressive, and will drink quite well with grilled fish or meats, and also with fried foods. It won't on the other hand, work at all well by the glass.

2 stars

Ronca

Ronca Bardolino Chiaretto 21.10.2009 DOC 2009


Pale salmon with salmon reflections and onionskin rim. The bouquet is dusky, with cut flowers and spice mingled with some sweetness and some berry fruit that brightens as the bouquet opens. Still developing. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich, fairly lax sour berry fruit supported by some greenish accents and brambly acidity that flows into a clean sour berry fruit finish. Pleasant in a fairly approachable key, and will drink nicely with summer foods. Not quite a wine to drink by the glass, but wine should be drunk with food.

2 stars

Sartori

Sartori Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2009


Lively salmon ruby with black reflections and salmon rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some sour cherry and raspberry fruit mingled with deft heather. Graceful. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich sour berry fruit supported by ample sour berry fruit acidity that has a slightly lactic feel to it, and flows into a savory sour finish. Scrappy, and fairly aggressive, and if you like the style it will drink very well with fried meats or fish. Well chilled it will also be a good cookout wine.

1 star

Tamburino Sardo

Tamburino Sardo Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2009


Salmon with bright salmon reflections and pale rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with greenish sour berry fruit supported by spice and a certain pungency mingled with heather. On the palate it's lively, with bright sour berry fruit supported by peppery notes from slight petillance, and by sour acidity that flows into a decidedly sour berry fruit finish with brambly overtones. It's quite aggressive, and if you like the style you will enjoy it, though I found myself wishing the fruit had more depth.

1 star

Giovanna Tantini

Giovanna Tantini Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2009


Elegant rosy pink with brilliant orange rose reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with red berry fruit supported by some menthol and sea salt: it's still developing. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich decidedly mineral fruit supported by mineral acidity that flows into a clean mineral finish that has dusky graphite shaving bitterness to it. A wine that turns out to be mostly about minerality, and in this context I rather enjoyed it. It's not for everyone, but if you like the style it will drink well with fried fish or meats.

2 stars

Tenuta La Presa

Tenuta La Presa Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2009


Pale slightly dusty salmon with white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some bitter accents and vegetal notes. On the palate it's bitter, with considerable minerality, and to be frank it's rather mineral, with savory notes too. It's a bit extreme, and you have to like the style, but if you do it will drink well with richer fried or roasted meats or vegetables. If you want a more approachable wine, this isn't it.

1 star

Tinazzi

Tinazzi Cà dei Ronchi Campo Delle Rose Bardolino Chiaretto Classico DOC 2009


Pale salmon with bright reflections and salmon rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with greenish accents and menthol mingled with more minerality than fruit, and some lactic acid which is youth. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour berry fruit supported by greenish acidity and by brambly accents that flow into a clean decidedly savory finish. It's pleasant, and will drink well with grilled meats or fish and also with other summer foods. A bit more aggressive in style, and if you like the style you will like it.

2 stars

Zenato

Zenato Bardolino Chiaretto DOC 2009

Elegant salmon pink with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with roses and some savory accents mingled with heather and underlying greenish vegetal notes of the artichoke variety. On the palate it's ample, and fairly rich, with sour cherry and forest berry fruit supported by clean sour berry fruit acidity and slight brambly accents, which flow into a clean bright slightly greenish finish. Pleasant, in a fairly rich scrappy greenish key; it's quite lively, and will drink very well with summer foods, though I'm not sure I would want to drink it by the glass.

2 stars

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