D'Alfonso Del Sordo, Fine Wines from Daunia, in Puglia North of the Murge

I met Gianfelice and Celeste D'Alfonso Del Sordo, of D'Alfonso Del Sordo several years ago at the Ristorante il Calmiere in Verona -- we were both guests of Elisabetta Fagioli, and took advantage of the relative calm of the restaurant (relative to Vinitaly most anything is calm) to chat, and the next day I tasted their wines, which I enjoyed. So I stopped by again this year, and tasted again. And again came away quite favorably impressed; they are doing some fascinating things in Northern Puglia. Vinitaly being what it is, rather than talk I took notes on the wines:

D'Alfonso del Sordo Catapanus Bombino Bianco IGT Daunia 2009
Pale brassy white with brassy golden reflections and white rim. The bouquet is pleasant, with rich floral accents mingled with heather and slight savory notes, and also some loquat and a certain pungency. On the palate it's bright, with lively slightly greenish berry fruit supported by savory minerality and some tart tannic acidity that flows into a clean rather herbal savory finish. Pleasant, and will work nicely as an aperitif or with fish based dishes, ranging from pasta sauces through grilled or roasted finish, and also with white meats. In short, a versatile food wine. Also a wine with a nice aging potential, and may well be superior in a year or two.
2 stars

D'Alfonso del Sordo Candelaro Puglia IGT Bianco 2009
This is a barrel fermented bland of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. It's brassy gold with brilliant golden reflections the bouquet is fairly rich, with dusky white berry fruit mingled with gooseberry and some spice. Nice depth, and there is also, as it opens, some butterscotch. On the palate it's ample and rich, with fairly sweet honeydew melon fruit laced with gooseberry warmth and supported by smooth acidity and some languidity from the tannins drawn from the oak. Pleasant in a softer key, and will work well as an aperitif or with spicier foods that will be tempered by the softness, which comes form letting the grapes ripen until the end of August.
2 stars

D'Alfonso del Sordo Posta Arignano San Severo DOC Rosato 2009
This is a blend of Montepulciano D'Abruzzo and about 20% Sangiovese. It's lively pink with brilliant slightly salmonate reflections and white rim. The bouquet is still closed, though swishing brings up clean berry fruit raspberry and some currant, supported by fairly lively acidity. On the palate it's ample and rich, with clean fresh berry fruit supported by lively raspberry acidity and by delicate tannins that flow into a clean fresh raspberry finish that is fairly long. Quite nice, and will be a perfect summer cookout wine, or a wine to sip with friends on the terrace as the darkness grows and the shadows lengthen.
88-90

D'Alfonso del Sordo Posta Arignano San Severo Rosso DOC 2008
This is a Montepulciano and Sangiovese, like the Rosato, fermented in steel. Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with savory slightly balsamic accents and a fair amount of alcohol supporting pleasant prune fruit that opens nicely. On the palate it's rich, with pleasant very smooth prune fruit supported by warmth and some acidity, and by clean sweet tannins that flow into a fairly rich berry fruit finish with some cedary dusky bitter undertones. Ripe but not overripe, and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

D'Alfonso del Sordo Casteldrione Uva di Troia Puglia IGT Rosso 2008
Barrel sample
Elegant deep pyrope ruby with purple highlights and violet rim. The bouquet is pleasant, with moderate berry fruit supported by India ink bitterness and spice, and by clean graphite shavings from grapes. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with rich cherry prune fruit supported by warm slightly tannic acidity and warmth, and by smooth dry tannins that flow into a clean fresh dry tannic finish with some mineral acidity and slight berry fruit. It's still developing -- barrel samples are by definition but would already be drinkable with simple stews or roasts, and will be quite pleasant in a year's time.

D'Alfonso del Sordo Montero Puglia IGT Rosso 2007
This is a blend of Montepulciano and Cabernet Sauvignon, and spends some time in used barriques. It's deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, with slightly jammy cherry and forest berry fruit supported by deft slightly greenish acidity and by some but not too much cedar; it's quite harmonious in a rather cheeky key. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich cherry and forest berry fruit supported by clean citric acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly tanic fairly long tart finish. Pleasant, and will drink nicely with grilled meats or light stews, and will also age well for a year or two.
2 stars

D'Alfonso del Sordo Contrada del Santo Puglia IGT 2006
This is a blend of Uva di Troia and Merlot, and goes into older barriques for a time. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry prune fruit supported by India ink and some iodine, and by clean cedary spice. On the palate it's full and smooth with rich cherry fruit supported by clean minerality more than acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long berry fruit finish with some prune accents as well. Graceful, in a curvy sort of way, and will drink nicely with drier meats ranging from pork loin though roast beef cooked slightly more well done than rare. It's also a wine that will be nice by the glass far from the table. The Merlot makes itself heard.
88-90

D'Alfonso del Sordo Doganera Merlot Daunia IGT Puglia 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted at first swish; more brings up some cassis mingled with India ink and some cedar with underlying spice. Nice balance and fairly harmonious,. On the palate it's ample and very smooth with fairly rich cassis fruit supported by some dusky acidity and by sweet tannins that flow into a smooth sweet finish kept alive by fairly bright currant acidity that does have some dusky accents. Very typical of Merlot, and very smooth, it's smooth enough that in terms of accompaniments it will work best with drier meats, and it is also a wine to be drink by the glass far from the table.
2 stars

D'Alfonso del Sordo Cava del Re Cabernet Sauvignon Daunia IGT Puglia 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with pyrope rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with deft herbal accents mingled with warmth and spice; and supported by jammy berry fruit and some alcohol. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry fruit supported by fairly bright berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean berry fruit finish. Pleasant, in a fairly rich key, and will drink nicely with grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

D'Alfonso del Sordo Guado San Leo Uva di Troia Puglia IGT 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with violet rim. The bouquet is intense, with India ink and some cumin seed mingled with prune fruit and pleasant airy richness. Quite nice to sniff. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by smooth tannins that have a slight dry sandalwood underpinning attributable to youth, and flows into a clean rather dry finish. Very young, and needs another year at least for the tannins to smooth and fold in. When they do it will be very nice, and quite approachable in a smooth fruit driven key. In sort, a wine to give some time to , and it will also age nicely for 8-10 years and perhaps more.
2 stars