Roero: The 2007 Vintage

This year's Nebbiolo Prima began with Roero, the Nebbiolo-based wine made downstream of Alba, on the hills overlooking the left bank of the Tanaro river (facing the Barbaresco production area).

The 2007 vintage seems (to me) to have been hotter in Roero than it was in Barbaresco; the wines were skittish, a common trait in 2007 vintage Italian wines, but had less intensity and complexity in their bouquets, and also lower acidities than some other recent vintages. As a group I found them to be fairly up front, and think that they will be best drunk in the short-mid term. In other words, not a vintage to lay down.

With respect to Barbaresco, as has been the case in the past few vintages, there was more variation, with some producers aiming for grace and elegance in a lighter (for a Nebbiolo) key, characteristics the sandier sols of the region tend to favor, and some aiming for concentration and power, which (to my mind) doesn't work as well. A number of wineries presented the 2006 Riserve as well, and they were a mixed group; some were pleasant, while others were too busy being Important Wines to be (to me) interesting.

Roero: The 2007 Vino D'Annata and the 2006 Riserva, tasted May 2010

Azienda Agricola Careglio Roero DOCG 2007
(Found no site, Tel 0172 40294)
Pale almandine with black reflections and light orange rim. The bouquet is fresh, with lively sour berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and some greenish vegetal accents. Bracing. On the palate it's fresh, with lively sour berry fruit supported by tannins that have a slight cedary overlay from grapes, and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. It's quite young, in a traditional key, and fairly aggressive; it will drink nicely with grilled meats or light stews, and will also age nicely for several years. If you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Monchiero Carbone Sru Roero DOCG 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. Looks concentrated. The bouquet is fairly intense, with chewy cherry blackberry fruit that has some yellow peach overtones and slight sweet vegetal accents. Concentrated. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with berry fruit supported by tannins that have a cedary component, and a degree of bitterness, while there isn't too much acidity; the show is carried more by bitterness. It's oakier than some, and well made in this context, but you have to like heavily oaked wines.
1 star

Monchiero Carbone Printi Roero Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with savory notes and some spice mingled with rubber cement -- one writes what one smells -- and some dusky bitter accents. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with very moderate fruit supported by dusky tannins that are more savory than bitter, while there isn't much acidity at all. It's flat, and a wine that is flat in youth will not pick up with time.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Cornarea Roero DOCG 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is frankly oaky, with considerable cedar and some u berry fruit, though cedar is carrying the show at present. This will change with time, as fruit emerges, but cedar will always play an important part in the wine. On the palate it's brighter than I expected from the nose, with fairly rich, fairly bright berry fruit supported by cheeky acidity and smooth well polished tannins that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish that gains depth from some underbrush and wet earth; the oak is evident in the polish of the tannins, but there is quite enough acidity to carry it and provide direction, making it more interesting that I expected from the nose. I would give it a year for the nose to catch up, and enjoy it with a steak.
2 stars

Marco Porello Torretta Roero DOCG 2007
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is dusky, with some sour berry fruit supported by acidity and some bitterness, with hints of gum Arabic ac well. On the palate it's bright, with sour berry fruit supported by dusky acidity and underlying bitterness, while the tannins are fairly light, with a splintery component that then reveals considerable bitterness and carries at length. It's a bit disjointed and still coming together, though I would have likes somewhat greater richness to the fruit.
1 star

Bel Colle Monvijé Roero DOCG 2007
Pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, and greenish, with some berry fruit supported by dusky vegetal accents and some wood smoke, also wet earth. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate berry fruit -- sour cherries mostly -- supported by some berry fruit acidity, and by smooth tannins that flow into a moderately long bitter finish. It's tired, and a bit flat, and I'd have liked more depth and oomph than I found.
1 star

Cascina Chicco Montespinato Roero DOCG 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and vinous, with languid berry fruit supported by wet leather and some gum Arabic, which adds depth, and also by underlying dusky almost graphite shaving bitterness. Quite a bit of oak. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with dusky berry fruit supported by dusty bitter tannins more than acidity, which flow into a dusky finish in which bitterness emerges as the fruit fades. A brooding wine; there isn't that much acidity 8enough to provide direction, but not dazzle), and it revolves around the bitterness imparted by the wood. Pleasant if you like the style, but if you prefer brighter wines with more acidity it will not work for you. If you do like the style it will be nice with succulent red meats.
2 stars

Cascina Chicco Valmaggiore Roero Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, with some greenish accents and sour berry fruit, but it's obviously in mid stride. On the palate it's ample and quite soft, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by savory minerality and tannins more than acidity, which is present to provide steerage but little else, and it flows into a clean rather smooth berry tannic finish. The acidity has been buffed out, and though the wine is pleasant in a smooth polished key, I would have liked more acidity to provide life and backbone.
1 star


Azienda Agricola Marsaglia Emilio Brich D'America Roero DOCG 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is old style, with considerable balsamic acidity and some lathered horse mingled with stable straw. In short, more rustic than some, and if you like fruit driven wines it won't work for you. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense balsamic fruit supported by some, but not too much acidity, and by tannins that are smoother than I expected, though they do have a savory balsamic edge to them. The palate is not what I expected from the nose; it has an oddly dilute feel to it and is going in several different directions at once. I would have liked more cohesion and focus.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Ponchione Maurizio Monfrini Roero DOCG 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with jammy berry fruit laced with yellow peaches and sea salt, and supported by hints of gum Arabic. On the palate it's ample, and rather languid, with moderately rich sour cherry fruit supported by some berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean savory finish with tart berry fruit underpinning and some tannic support. It's a bit softer than some, and still coming together, and I would give it a year or two because I think it could become interesting in a lacy key in the future. But we're not there yet.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Giovanni Almondo Bric Vaidiana Roero DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with berry fruit supported by yellow peaches and berry fruit jam with some hints of menthol and sea salt, and also underlying hardwood ash. Ripe. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by dusky bitterness and some berry fruit acidity that has jammy accents, and by smooth sweet ample tannins that flow into a clean fairly bright finish. It's forward, in a cheeky saucy way, and will drink nicely now with grilled meats -- a grigliata mista -- or light stews. And will be pleasant in the short term, though I don't think it will be particularly ling lived. Something to set out and drink, which isn't what one normally does with a Roero, but can do with this vintage.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Giovanni Almondo Giovanni Almondo Roero Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and slightly orange rim. The bouquet is moderately intense with sour berry fruit balanced by a fair amount of cedar. On the palate it's fairly rich, with sour cherry fruit supported by dusky mineral acidity and cedar laced tannins that are still quite young, and need another year at least to come together; it's pleasant in a young key and needs time, at least a year, at which point it will be pleasant in a middle of the road key, and will drink nicely with grilled meats, especially lamb chops or steaks.
2 stars

Negro Angelo e Figli di Giovanni Negro Prachiosso Roero DOCG 2007
Almandine garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and almost chewy, with yellow peaches mingled with red berry fruit and some coffee grounds with slight vegetal accents. There's not much acidity, and it gives an impression of softness, and also roundness that's not quite voluptuous, but headed in that direction. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by some savory accents and tannins that have a hint of cedar to them, but not much in the way of acidity, which makes it less interesting than it might have been, and it settles into a warm tannic finish. I'd have liked more verve to it.
1 star

Negro Angelo e Figli di Giovanni Negro Sudisfà Roero Riserva DOCG 2006
Dusky black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some sour berry fruit and hints of green leather. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by leathery accents and minerality, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean savory finish with leathery accents and some tannic underpinning. The nose is behind, and it is more interesting on the palate at present, in a fairly traditional key; I would give it a year or two to get its bearings, and drink it with a steak or a roast. If you like the style, which is traditional and rather tannic, you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Cantina del Nebbiolo Roero DOCG 2007
Pale almandine with brownish reflections and rim that's almost onionskin. Any paler and it would be a rosé. The bouquet is brambly, with greenish accents and spice mingled with some tart berry fruit. Scrappier than many, and also more aggressive, at least on the nose. The palate is again scrappy, with fairly intense greenish acidity supporting some savory minerality -- there's not much fruit -- and supported by scrappy greenish tannins that flow into a fairly long greenish finish. It's lacking in fruit, and has the feel of a wine whose vineyard was heatstruck and consequently didn't ripen well while yielding much acidity, but has a pleasing grace within this context, and if you like the style will drink well with succulent grilled meats or light stews. But you have to like the style. If you prefer wines that are more fruit forward it won't work for you.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Cascina Val del Prete Bricco Medica Roero DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. Considerable wood on the nose, which reveals cedar and some menthol, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, harmonious, and soft, with minerality and cedar more than fruit, and supported by smooth sweet tannins. It will, I think, become leathery with time because there are already Moroccan leather accents to it, but I would have liked more fruit. There isn't much, and what's not there now will not emerge later.
1 star

Bricco del Prete Betlemme Roero DOCG 2007
Deep black cherry with black reflections and dusty rim paling to white. The bouquet is moderately intense with some berry fruit mingled with peaches and cedar, and some nutmeg spice with underlying very slight rosa canina as well. On the palate it's bright, though not particularly rich, with moderate berry fruit supported by considerable sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are rather greenish and flow into a clean tannic finish with acidic underpinning. I'd have liked a little more richness to the fruit, which comes across as a bit thin. This said, it does display a certain grace, and I would give it a year or two, because it may become lacy with time. It grew upon me.
2 stars

Rabino F.lli Roero DOCG 2007
Dusky almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is moderately intense, with green leather mingled with savory notes, spice, sour cherry fruit, and some nutmeg and balsamic accents. Fairly traditional. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright cherry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly tart, greenish berry fruit finish that is fairly long. It's languid, and harmonious in an acidic traditional key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. But you have to like wines that re built upon and carried by acidity; if you prefer smoother softer fruitier wines it won't work for you. If it does, it will be quite nice with braised meats, including furred game..
2 stars

Fabrizio Battaglino Sergentin Roero DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is dusky and frankly balsamic, with scalded milk and warm savory notes Not much in the way of fruit, and there is also some hardwood ash. On the palate it's ample, and soft, with sour minerality more than fruit, supported by sea salt and tannins that have a slight splintery burr, and flow into a bitter finish. Lots of alcohol too, but I would have liked more fruit.
1 star

Malaballa di Canale Castelletto Roero Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, with some berry fruit and some greenish vegetal accents, but not much of either. Under wraps. On the palate it's ample, and fairly direct, with moderately intense sour mineral-berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and by tannins that have dusky bitter underpinning and flow into a rather bitter finish. It's disjointed and flowing in several different directions, and I would give it 2-3 years to get its act together. It may, or it may not.
1 star

Casetta F.lli Roero Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep almandine garnet with black reflections and garnet rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some greenish notes mingled with berry fruit and some spice; it's in mid stride but could do interesting things with time. On the palate it's medium bodied with moderately intense decidedly mineral fruit supported by dusky tannins and some savory acidity that flow into a clean savory finish. It's very much a child, but there's something about it, and I would give it three to five years, because it may do very interesting things. A wine to wait for.
2 stars

Cascina Cà Rossa Roero Riserva DOCG 2006
Almandine with black reflections and orange rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with berry fruit mingled with petroleum and savory bitterness, and also some leathery accents. Brooding. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit guided by moderate mineral acidity that increases in intensity as the fruit fades, while the tannins are ample and slightly splintery, and flow into a clean splintery savory finish with underlying berry fruit laced mineral acidity. It's still coming together, but is rather graceful in a willowy key, and will, I think, age nicely for 8-10 years becoming graceful as the pieces fall into place.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Malvirà Renesio Roero Riserva DOCG 2006
Almandine with dark brown reflections and orange rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and some dusky greenish accents and almond fuzz bitterness, and also some nutmeg spice with underlying rosa canina. On the palate it's ample, and soft, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by sweet tannins that have something of candied sugar about them, and by sour almost lemony acidity that flows into a fairly long citric finish. It's very laid back, and to be frank I would have liked a bit more verve to it. The acidity is there, but there isn't so much fruit, and the tannins are a touch more relaxed than I might have liked.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Malvirà Trinità Roero Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some jammy berry fruit with hints of leather and savory accents. On the palate it's flat, with minerality more than fruit, supported by tannins that have a bitter splintery burr.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Pace Roero Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and rim paling to orange. The bouquet is unusual, with a first rush of pickled onions supported by some spice and savory accents; further swishing brings out sweaty human, which is something I associate more with sauvignon blanc than Nebbiolo. On the palate it's ample, with savory cedar-laced minerality more than fruit, supported by mineral acidity and smooth chewy tannins that flow into a clean tannic finish. I'd have liked more fruit; the wine is carried by other elements that wok better in supporting rather than primary roles.
1 star

Matteo Correggia Rocche d'Ampsej Roero Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and decidedly oaky, with an undercurrent of shellac. It's like visiting the finishing area of a woodshop. On the palate it's brighter than I expected, with moderately intense sour berry fruit supported by bitter cedar laced acidity and smooth tannins that have some cedar underpinning, and flow into a clean rather bitter savory finish. It brings to mind a goose that is forced-fed corn to fatten its liver; there was and is enough fruit to balance things but the oaking was extremely heavy. It's still developing, but less oak would have been nice, because the other pieces were quite capable of going it alone.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Taliano Michele Rocche dra Bassora Roero Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, with an initial burst of violets that resolves into yellow peaches with berry fruit and coffee grounds, and some dusky notes as well. On the palate it's full, with moderate fruit supported by dusky tannic accents that flow into a rather dry bitter finish. I'd have liked more fruit; it is overshadowed by the oak.
1 star

Negro Lorenzo San Francesco Roero Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep brownish almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit with slight balsamic accents and some leather, mingled with nutmeg. It brings to mind a person curled into a ball. On the palate it's ample, with languid sour cherry fruit supported by moderate balsamic acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean rather tannic finish with sour berry fruit balsamic underpinning. It's very much in mid stride, and needs another couple of years to develop, and will age well for a number of years thereafter. I would give it time, because at present it's an unfinished canvas.
2 stars

Deltetto Braja Roero Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted. Shut tight. Nobody home. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense cherry and forest berry fruit supported by moderately intense savory minerality and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean tannic finish. The nose is very much behind, and I would give it 3-5 years to come together, at which point it will be pleasant in a fairly traditional key. One could drink it sooner, but would miss half the wine.
2 stars