This year's Barolo vintage is the 2006, and before we get to it a brief aside. This year the folks at Albeisa, who host the annual vintage presentation, decided it was time for a change, and rather than work with Marinella Minetti of Wellcom, who had organized Alba Wines since its first edition, asked another firm called Gheusis to step in.
The decision had several consequences, the first being that -- since Wellcom holds the rights to "Alba Wines" -- the folks at Albeisa had to rename the event; they settled on "Nebbiolo Prima," which has a nice ring to it though it isn't quite as descriptive as Alba Wines.
The other, and for me more important consequence was that they decided to invite new voices; with a limited number of spots available some journalists who had attended Alba Wines for many years did not receive invitations, including, initially, me.
Faced with the prospect of not going, I talked with Carlo Macchi, the friend and colleague behind Winesurf, a fascinating and very dynamic Italian internet wine review (listen to Ezio Rivella, president of the Brunello Consorzio, tell Carlo that most of the Brunello made in Montalcino contains forbidden varietals here), and he suggested that I taste through the wines in the fall with his team. I gratefully accepted his invitation, and then, the week before Nebbiolo Prima, received an invitation to the official event as well. Which I of course accepted.
I therefore tasted through a large body of wines, in late spring, and then tasted through a smaller though still considerable number of Barolos in the beginning of October. The samples do not completely overlap -- some people who presented their wines at Nebbiolo Primo didn't respond to our request, while a few sent their wines just to us, and a few others sent us wines that they didn't send to Nebbiolo Primo. I therefore have decided to combine the tastings, and, since enough time has elapsed for the wines to change some since the spring, will give the notes from both events when I can.
You will note that while in some cases the scores are the same, in others they differ, sometimes substantially, as do the comments. This is because wine is a living thing that changes and evolves, especially when it is young, going through more exuberant phases and others, which a friend calls stupid phases, in which it really wants to be left alone. In these cases I would tend to give more credence to the score from the expansive moment, because in the long term most wines will work through the stupid phases.
I will also present the notes in the format employed by Alba wines and then Nebbiolo Grapes, in other words by Comune, and of wineries wineries that make wines in more than one Comune will be discussed by Comune rather than be lumped together, because there were significant differences in the ways the various comuni showed, especially for the DOCG 2006 Barolo. And this brings us to the vintage.
Though the 2006 vintage, on paper, is superior to either the 2005 or the 2007, it was quite uneven from Comune to Comune, with Barolo, which is often the weakest Comune, showing rather well, as did Novello and Verduno. However, I have much more mixed feelings about Monforte, La Morra, and especially Serralunga D'Alba, where many of the wines were frightfully closed in the spring, and even more closed, if possible, this fall, to the point that Carlo wonders if they will ever really open. There were also many wines that were either very ripe, with fruit towards the prune-plum end of the spectrum (and high alcohol levels too), or a great deal of oak, or both.
The bottom line is that the 2006 Barolo is a decidedly mixed bag, and a wine that you will have to select with considerable care, because -- as is often the case in vintages that show this way -- the winemakers who usually rank at the top are among those whose wines suffer the problems the most. This said, it is a vintage that has considerable potential -- Carlo, who is much better at doing statistical analysis of Winesurf's scores than I am of mine, says that though his group found few wines meriting 4 (their top score is 5), a considerable number got 3-3 1/2, more than any vintage since 2001. The bottom line is that it is a good vintage, with spots of greatness, but is not a sure-fire vintage: You'll have to pick with care, selecting wines that match the style you like, because -- with a few exceptions -- it isn't one of those vintages in which wines of styles you generally don't care for will offer you opportunities for discovery and delight.
The decision had several consequences, the first being that -- since Wellcom holds the rights to "Alba Wines" -- the folks at Albeisa had to rename the event; they settled on "Nebbiolo Prima," which has a nice ring to it though it isn't quite as descriptive as Alba Wines.
The other, and for me more important consequence was that they decided to invite new voices; with a limited number of spots available some journalists who had attended Alba Wines for many years did not receive invitations, including, initially, me.
Faced with the prospect of not going, I talked with Carlo Macchi, the friend and colleague behind Winesurf, a fascinating and very dynamic Italian internet wine review (listen to Ezio Rivella, president of the Brunello Consorzio, tell Carlo that most of the Brunello made in Montalcino contains forbidden varietals here), and he suggested that I taste through the wines in the fall with his team. I gratefully accepted his invitation, and then, the week before Nebbiolo Prima, received an invitation to the official event as well. Which I of course accepted.
I therefore tasted through a large body of wines, in late spring, and then tasted through a smaller though still considerable number of Barolos in the beginning of October. The samples do not completely overlap -- some people who presented their wines at Nebbiolo Primo didn't respond to our request, while a few sent their wines just to us, and a few others sent us wines that they didn't send to Nebbiolo Primo. I therefore have decided to combine the tastings, and, since enough time has elapsed for the wines to change some since the spring, will give the notes from both events when I can.
You will note that while in some cases the scores are the same, in others they differ, sometimes substantially, as do the comments. This is because wine is a living thing that changes and evolves, especially when it is young, going through more exuberant phases and others, which a friend calls stupid phases, in which it really wants to be left alone. In these cases I would tend to give more credence to the score from the expansive moment, because in the long term most wines will work through the stupid phases.
I will also present the notes in the format employed by Alba wines and then Nebbiolo Grapes, in other words by Comune, and of wineries wineries that make wines in more than one Comune will be discussed by Comune rather than be lumped together, because there were significant differences in the ways the various comuni showed, especially for the DOCG 2006 Barolo. And this brings us to the vintage.
Though the 2006 vintage, on paper, is superior to either the 2005 or the 2007, it was quite uneven from Comune to Comune, with Barolo, which is often the weakest Comune, showing rather well, as did Novello and Verduno. However, I have much more mixed feelings about Monforte, La Morra, and especially Serralunga D'Alba, where many of the wines were frightfully closed in the spring, and even more closed, if possible, this fall, to the point that Carlo wonders if they will ever really open. There were also many wines that were either very ripe, with fruit towards the prune-plum end of the spectrum (and high alcohol levels too), or a great deal of oak, or both.
The bottom line is that the 2006 Barolo is a decidedly mixed bag, and a wine that you will have to select with considerable care, because -- as is often the case in vintages that show this way -- the winemakers who usually rank at the top are among those whose wines suffer the problems the most. This said, it is a vintage that has considerable potential -- Carlo, who is much better at doing statistical analysis of Winesurf's scores than I am of mine, says that though his group found few wines meriting 4 (their top score is 5), a considerable number got 3-3 1/2, more than any vintage since 2001. The bottom line is that it is a good vintage, with spots of greatness, but is not a sure-fire vintage: You'll have to pick with care, selecting wines that match the style you like, because -- with a few exceptions -- it isn't one of those vintages in which wines of styles you generally don't care for will offer you opportunities for discovery and delight.
We'll begin with the wines presented at Nebbiolo Prima, which did things by Comune, with Barolo, Novello and Verduno first, followed by La Morra, Castiglione Falletto, Montforte and Finally Serralunga. I confess that I neglected to note the Comuni as I went along, so the iwnes are simply in the order they were presented, and are followed by the wines only prsented in the fall, which are in the order tasted.
The Wines:
Azienda Agricola Nada Giuseppe
Azienda Agricola Nada Giuseppe Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and quite spicy, with a fair amount of nose-tingling acidity as well. But not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by spicy tannins that have a warm peppery burr and by fairly tart acidity that flows into a clean sour berry fruit finish. It's very young and the nose and the palate are on different planes at present. If and when they will come together is a good question, but I would give it a couple of years to make peace with itself. The potential on the palate is there.
2 stars
Piazzo Armando
Piazzo Armando Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Elegant brownish almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is dusky, with some green leather and berry fruit supported by hints of petroleum and some rosa cainia. It's still up in the air. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich slightly balsamic sour cherry fruit supported by savory accents and balsamic acidity, and by tannins that have a youthful aggressiveness to them, and flow into a rather bitter savory finish. It's very young, and aggressive, with quite a bit of oak it has yet to digest. Give it time, because it will improve.
1 star
How much time? More than just a few months:
Piazzo Armando Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with tart berry fruit supported by spice and some savory accents with slight cedar as well. On the palate it's ample and bitter, with moderately intense berry fruit supported more by bitterness than acidity, and by tannins that are decidedly cedary, flowing into a very dry tannic finish. More richness of fruit and less wood would have been nice.
1 star
Bric Cenciurio
Bric Cenciurio Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with considerable cedar that displays a certain pungency and also has greenish accents and quite a bit of alcohol. On the palate it's ample, and fairly sweet, with cherry plum fruit supported by some acidity, and by tannins that have a warm peppery burr and flow into a warm finish with coffee grounds and cocoa accents from wood. There's more wood than fruit to it, at least at present, and I would give it a couple of years in the hope that it will sort itself out and come together.
1 star
Bric Cenciurio Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with some berry fruit supported by a fair amount of cedar and some greenish accents with hints of petroleum and cold coffee as well; there's not much acidity, however. On the palate it's ample and dusky, with cherry plum fruit supported more by bitterness than acidity, and by tannins that have a dusky bitter cast from oak, and it all flows into a clean bitter finish with cedary underpinning. It's well made in a heavily oaked style, and if you like the style you will enjoy the wine. But you have to like oak.
1 star
Famiglia Anselma
Famiglia Anselma Famiglia Anselma Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Dusky almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with balsamic acidity and some wet leather mingled with savory notes and greenish spice, also some coffee grounds and yellow peach fruit. On the palate it's ample and smoother than I expected, with moderate berry fruit supported by dusky bitterness more than acidity, and by considerable warmth, while the tannins are ample and fairly sweet, and it all flows into a rather greenish finish. It's more disjointed than I expected, and also laxer.
1 star
Angelo Germano
Angelo Germano Vigna Ruè Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is warm and spicy with a fair amount of cedar as well, but not much in the way of fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with cherry plum fruit supported by moderate plum acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly soft cocoa-laced finish. Quite a bit of oak, and if you like the style you will enjoy it, but you have to like heavily oaked very ripe wines.
1 star
Elvio Cogno
Elvio Cogno Cascina Nuova Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cocoa and coffee grounds mingled with spice and sweetness, and some leaf tobacco too. Not much in the way of fruit, though there are some floral accents. On the palate it's ample, with rich berry fruit supported by delicate acidity and fairly rich tannins that have a smooth peppery burr and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. It's quite young, but displays considerable depth and will age very well over the next 8-10 years. Something to seek out and set aside; it will improve markedly.
2 stars
Elvio Cogno Cascina Nuova Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly muted, with moderate berry fruit supported by delicate spice with some cedar accents. On the palate it's fairly rich, with graceful cherry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a warm splintery burr and flow into a warm berry fruit laced finish; It's more interesting on the palate than the nose, and though I wouldn't call the palate ready either -- the tannins are still quite rough -- I think it will do nice things with time, becoming elegant in a middle of the road key, and age well for a decade or more. In short, patience.
2 stars
Cantina Bartolo Mascarello
Cantina Bartolo Mascarello Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense and spicy, with fairly rich mineral acidity as well. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly bright berry fruit finish. It's very much a child, but a promising child, and will do nice things if given time. I would say a decade or more.
2 stars
Luciano Sandrone
Luciano Sandrone Le Vigne Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit mingled with greenish accents and some spice. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich cherry prune fruit supported by moderate acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that reveal a considerable degree of polish, and flow into a fairly warm bright finish. It's fairly direct, and this is in part a factor of youth, and will drink well now with grilled meats or roasts. I would be tempted to give it time, however.
1 star
Luciano Sandrone Le Vigne Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright cherry fruit supported by a fair amount of alcohol and warmth, and by underlying greenish spice and hints of gum Arabic, and a fair amount of cedar as well that confers dusky accents, and increases in intensity as the wine opens. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry and prune fruit supported by bitterness more than acidity, and by tannins that are smooth, and well polished, with some cedary bitterness and slight cold coffee that continues into the finish, with is plum laced with some cherry accents that keep it up. It's pleasant in a very ripe well oaked key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Le Strette
Azienda Agricola Le Strette Bergera - Pezzole Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with dusky rosa canina supported by savory accents and spice, and by clean greenish notes, with underlying cherry fruit. Nice balance. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that work from below the surface, flowing into a warm soft berry fruit finish with peppery spice. It's ample, and softer than I would have liked -- it spreads out.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Le Ginestre
Azienda Agricola Le Ginestre Sottocastello Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is dusky, and also muted; swishing brings up some spice but there isn't a tremendous amount else. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly rich berry fruit finish. The nose is behind the palate, and the wine needs time, at least a year, to begin to come together. When it does it will be quite pleasant, I think, in a fairly traditional key.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Abbona di Abbona Marziano
Azienda Agricola Abbona di Abbona Marziano Terlo Ravera Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is frankly oaky, with considerable cedar and a fair amount of bitterness mingled with chemical accents from wood; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with richer than expected berry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that do have cedary accents and flow into a clean fairly bright berry fruit finish. It's woefully young, and needs at least a year -- 2 would be better -- to get its legs under it and for the nose to catch up with the body.
2 stars
Wines advance and retreat as they age (especially early in their lives) and this one withdrew:
Abbona Marziano Terlo-Ravera Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. Quite dark, and brings the modern school of the late 90s to mind. The bouquet is charged, with a tremendous amount of cedar -- the sort of thing that leaves splinters in the nostrils, and covers most everything else. On the palate it's full, with an initial rush of cherry plum fruit that gives way quickly to considerable cedar that's sweet, not bitter, but also splintery, and flows into a very oaky finish. The fruit is powerful, or it wouldn't have managed to emerge at all, but I don't think it's strong enough to absorb the oak with time -- the wood will inexorably win out.
1 star
Elvio Cogno
Elvio Cogno Ravera Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and orange rim. The bouquet is penetrating, with cedar and a fair amount of spice, but not much in the way of fruit. It's not quite like sniffing a sawmill, but in that direction. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by savory accents and mineral acidity and warmth, and by smooth well polished tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. I'd have liked more depth to it.
1 star
A few months made a big difference:
Elvio Cogno Ravera Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Fairly deep almandine garnet with black reflections and orange in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with elegant rosa canina mingled with sour cherry fruit and some leaf tobacco, and also fairly intense minerality, while it is supported by lively sour berry fruit acidity that gains depth from some mineral accents. Quite a bit going on, and very young. On the palate it's full, with bright slightly jammy cherry fruit -- there's a touch of sweetness to it, and this is the vintage -- supported by brisk almost brambly acidity and by tannins that are still quite young, and lay a brambly burr over the tongue, flowing into a sour cherry finish with tannic underpinning. It's very young, and needs at least a year, or better two, to get its bearings and come together. When it does it will be powerful, in a rich ripe but not overripe fruit driven key that is a little sweeter than usual, and will work very well with grilled meats or hearty strews, Expect it to age well for 10-15 years.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Scarzello Giorgio e Figli
Azienda Agricola Scarzello Giorgio e Figli Del Comune di Barolo Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and brownish almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, and balsamic with some animal notes as well, stable straw in particular, mingled with saddle leather and some spice, also balsamic acidity. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with moderately rich cherry fruit supported by mineral acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have leathery accents and flow into a clean fresh tannic finish. I'd have liked a little more brightness to the fruit and the acidity, which flag slightly.
1 star
Scarzello Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a bitter smoky key, with some green leather as well and a fair amount of alcohol too. On the palate it's full, with ripe cherry plum fruit that is supported more by minerality than acidity, and by tannins that are dry and splintery, flowing into a dry splintery finish. I would give it a year at least, and perhaps two, because the tannins are angry and need time to settle; it's a wine to think about if you like riper fruit casts, more towards plum than cherry.
1 star
Famiglia Anselma
Famiglia Anselma del Comune di Barolo Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Elegant almandine with brownish black reflections and orange rim. The bouquet is pleasant in a rather rustic key, with spicy balsamic accents mingled with some berry fruit and lively balsamic acidity; there's also menthol and some spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and bright, with lively savory sour cherry fruit supported by brisk berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet slightly balsamic tannins that flow into a clean slightly balsamic finish with some dusky accents. Pleasant in a very old style key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it considerably. But you have to like the style.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Le Strette
Azienda Agricola Le Strette Bergesia Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with mentholated berry fruit supported by nose tingling spice and some rosa canina, though not much. It's very young. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful cherry fruit supported by fairly bright berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a splintery burr and flow into a clean fairly rich berry fruit finish. It needs another year for the nose to come together; the fruit is pleasant and the tannins, though very young, do a nice job of holding together with it.
2 stars
Marchesi di Barolo
Marchesi di Barolo Costa di Rose Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with bright berry fruit supported by dusky cedar and some spice, with a degree of alcohol as well. On the palate it's ample and soft, with cherry plum fruit supported by savory notes and mineral acidity, while the tannins are smooth and well polished. It needs another year; this said, I found the tannic structure a touch less tightly woven than I might have liked.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola La Querciola
Azienda Agricola La Querciola Costa di Rose Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with pleasiaing rosa canina mingled with berry fruit and some mentholated spice. Quite pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's ample, with rich slightly sour cherry fruit supported by deft sour cherry acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly bright berry fruit finish. Pleasant, in a slightly softer key; the fruit is intense but there is a softness to the acidity, and it flows into a clean bright berry fruit finish. It's not as tightly woven as some, but does display a certain grace, and will age nicely for a number of years.
2 stars
Bric Cenciurio
Bric Cenciurio Costa di Rose Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents and spice mingled with some sea salt and pine pitch with a fair amount of alcohol as well. Not much fruit. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and lively berry fruit acidity. The palate is further along and more interesting than the nose, and I would give it a year for the nose to catch up, at which point it will be pleasant in a rather cheeky key, and also age nicely for a decade or more.
2 stars
Bric Cenciurio Barolo Coste di Rose DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some red berry fruit and slight spice. It's in mid stride, and needs another year to come together. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich slightly sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and bitter accents, and by tannins that are warm and full, and have a slight splintery burr that flows into a clean rather bitter finish. The palate is further along than the nose but both need time, and the wine will be ready in a year or perhaps two; I would expect it to age well for a decade or more.
2 stars
Cascina Adelaide
Cascina Adelaide Preda Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up spice and some cedar, mingled with slight floral accents. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by some berry fruit acidity and by smooth ample sweet tannins that flow into a clean berry fruit finish. It's lax, alas, and I am not sure how long it will age for.
1 star
F.lli Barale
F.lli Barale Castellero Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with pungent accents and some cedar; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with richer than expected berry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a bright finish. The nose is far behind the palate and it has a degree of softness to it, though there is enough acidity to provide depth and direction. I would give it a year or perhaps two to allow the nose to catch up.
2 stars
Poderi Einaudi
Poderi Einaudi Costa Grimaldi Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with gum Arabic mingled with spice and cedar, but not much in the way of fruit. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. The nose is a ways behind the palate, and needs another year overtones get its bearings and come together; when it does the wine will be pleasant in a fairly middle of the road key, and drink well with grilled meats or roasts.
2 stars
Grimaldi Giacomo
Grimaldi Giacomo Le Coste Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to brownish orange. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cedar and rosa canina mingled with Moroccan leather and spice; nice balance and fairly harmonious in a very youthful key. On the palate it's rich, with pleasant cherry fruit supported by cherry acidity that provides nice direction but isn't brash, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long clean fresh berry fruit finish with a languid, leathery tannic underpinning and a fair amount of alcoholic support. It's ample, and quite extracted, and will drink well with drier meats due to its softness.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Virna Borgogno
Azienda Agricola Virna Borgogno Cannubi Boschis Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with quite a bit of greenish cedar -- lots of oak, and it covers most everything else up completely. On the palate it's ample and fairly soft, with moderately rich cherry fruit supported by fairly lively berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that owe their polish to oak, and flow into a fairly bright berry fruit finish with considerable alcoholic warmth. Pleasant but heavily oaked, and the oak softens the wine considerably; if you prefer brasher wines it won't work as well for you.
2 stars
Sandrone Luciano
Sandrone Luciano Cannubi Boschis Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish cedar mingled with spice and some berry fruit, though oak covers most everything. On the palate it's ample, with moderate berry fruit supported by oaky cedar notes and moderate mineral acidity, while the tannins are clean and glancing, owing much of their character to oak. In short, it's heavily oaked, and though there is sufficient fruit to keep it from surrendering completely to the barrel, oak is very much a part of the wine. Too much, for me.
1 star
Sandrone Luciano Cannubi Boschis Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with ripe cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and some spice, with underlying berry fruit acidity, and by a fair amount of cedar. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by warm berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a cedary burr and flow into a clean bright cherry finish with fairly strong tannic underpinning that reveals some cocoa as the fruit fades. It needs time, another couple of years, for the tannins and some of the oak to fold in, at which point it will be pleasant in a broad-shouldered fruit driven key, and work well with stews or roasts; I would expect it to age well for a decade at least.
2 stars
Gianni Gagliardo
Gianni Gagliardo Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of cedar supported by some berry fruit and slight greenish mentholated accents. It's very young and up in the air; at present the oak is clearly apparent, but it does have underlying fruit that will emerge as the bouquet continues to develop. On the palate it's fairly rich, with lively cherry fruit supported by dusky berry fruit acidity that has a bitter component derived from oak, while the tannins are quite smooth and well polished. It's approachable, in a slightly softer key, and if you like wines with ripe fruit and lower acidities you will enjoy it. If you prefer brasher wines you will find it a bit soft for your tastes.
2 stars
Gianni Gagliardo Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with cedar-laced berry fruit supported by some spice, and also a degree of sweetness, with underlying alcohol and hints of gum Arabic. On the palate it's ample and quite ripe, with plum fruit laced with brown sugar sweetness and supported more by bitterness than acidity, and by tannins that are smooth and quite soft, and flow into a soft sweetish tannic finish that gains some depth from bitterness. It's extremely ripe and quite soft, and if you like the style you will enjoy it, but you have to like the style. If you prefer brighter livelier wines it won't work for you.
1 star
Rinaldi Francesco e Figli
Rinaldi Francesco e Figli Cannubbio Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Almandine with brownish black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with rosa canina mingled with concentrated berry fruit and spice from the grapes, in particular nutmeg and mace. Nice depth, and very young. On the palate it's pleasant, with fairly rich slightly leathery cherry fruit supported by clean mineral acidity and by tannins that are slightly splintery now but will be come velvety with time. Quite pleasant in a traditional key, and will age nicely for many years. I would give it at least 3-4 before I so much as thought about opening it.
2 stars
Poderi Einaudi
Poderi Einaudi Nei Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and cedar laced with greenish vegetal accents too, but not much in the way of fruit. Quite young, and still digesting oak. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are smooth and have a cedary underpinning, and flow into a clean fresh cedar laced cherry finish. Lots of oak here, and the wine hasn't finished digesting it. I think it will with time, but it needs at least a couple of years for things to come together and balance out. At present we're not talking an infanticide, but almost
2 stars
Damilano
Damilano Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful and penetrating, with nose tingling spice and some balsamic accents mingled with wet stable straw, and supported by quite a bit of alcohol. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate leathery berry fruit supported by moderately intense berry fruit-mineral intensity, and by smooth sweet tannins that work from below the surface like a wave, providing direction in a decidedly soft key. If you like the style you will enjoy it, but you have to like big soft wines.
1 star
Cascina Adelaide
Cascina Adelaide Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intriguing, and quite fresh, with pleasing floral accents, primarily rosa canina but also red blossoms, and mentholated spice supporting a fair amount of alcohol as well. On the palate it's fairly sweet, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity that is sufficient to balance the sweetness and keep the wine from being cloying, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly rich cherry prune finish. It's one of the sweeter, richer wines poured, and as such is particular, bringing to mind the wines of the Valpolicella with their sweetness, and I would likely serve it with similar dishes, ranging from goulash through grilled horsemeat. If you like the style you will enjoy it; if you prefer dry reds you will enjoy it less.
2 stars
Michele Chiarlo
Michele Chiarlo Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Brownish almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cedar and greenish spice mingled with sweetness. On the palate it's ample and fairly sweet, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by greenish spice and by tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a warm slightly greenish peppery finish.
1 star
Giacomo Brezza e Figli
Giacomo Brezza e Figli Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Brownish almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of cedar supported by spice and alcohol, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with brighter than expected berry fruit supported by moderately intense sour berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. It's very young, and the nose needs another year to come together, because at present it's on a different and less interesting plane with respect to the palate. Taken as a whole it's pleasant in a softer key, and if you like more bracing tannins it won't work for you, whereas if you like smoother softer wines in a ripe but not overripe key you will enjoy it. Because of its softness I would drink it with drier meats.
2 stars
Pira Di Chiara Boschis
Pira Di Chiara Boschis Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with considerable cedar and some spice. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich soft cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. It's fairly soft, but has nice acidity in a big smooth soft key.
2 stars
Pira di Chiara Boschis Barolo Cannubi DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with powerful alcohol mingled with dusky berry fruit and leaf tobacco, and fairly rich red berry fruit as well. Intense, in a brooding key, and gives an impression of being in mid stride. On the palate it's fairly rich, with lively cherry fruit supported by bright mineral acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight cedar overlay, which is also due to youth, and flows into a clean tart tannic finish with dry cedary accents. It's a bit up in the air, but will I think come down nicely in a fairly modern key; it needs a year or two to get its bearings, and will age well for a decade at least.
2 stars
Commendator G. B. Burlotto
Commendator G. B. Burlotto Vigneto Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense,with ithsome rosa canina and deft berry fruit spice mingled with some greenish accents with hints of leaf tobacco and alcohol. Very young, and really not ready yet. On the palate it's full and quite smooth with soft fresh berry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly tart finish. It's quite elegant, and very young, and I would give it time. A number of years, before it will be ready to think about being drunk.
88-90
Commendator Burlotto Vigneto Cannubi DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and greenish, with moderate berry fruit supported by greenish accents and cedar, and some spice as well, but not much in the way of acidity -- what there is, is slight sweetness. On the palate it's bright, with pleasant sour cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a youthful burr, and flow into a clean fairly tart finish. Pleasant in a rather scrappy tomboyish key, though it needs time, at least a couple of years, and will drink nicely with grilled meats or stews when it's ready. If you like the style, which is light (for a Barolo) and fairly tart --agile, even, you will enjoy it.
2 stars
Cavalier Bartolomeo di Borgogno Dario
Cavalier Bartolomeo di Borgogno Dario Cannubi San Lorenzo Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, with pungent sweetness mingled with some greenish accents. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately rich plum berry fruit supported by fairly bright berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fresh plum-laced berry fruit finish. It's ample and soft, and if you like the style will drink well with drier meats. But you have to like this big, soft fruit driven style.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Vittorio Camerano
Azienda Agricola Vittorio Camerano Cannubi San Lorenzo Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Garnet with black reflections and almandine rim tending towards orange. The bouquet is intense and smoky, with pungent greenish accents as well, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and fairly rich, with plum cherry fruit supported by mineral acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh plum laced finish. The nose is more pungent than many of the bigger softer wines, but it is cut from that cloth, and will work better with drier meats that will be balanced by its softness.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Giuseppe Rinaldi
Azienda Agricola Giuseppe Rinaldi Cannubi San Lorenzo Ravera Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and quite young, with red berry fruit supported by balsamic spice and some barnyard tang, in particular stable straw. Interesting, but sill very much up in the air. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh sour cherry finish with smooth tannic underpinning. The nose needs more time, but in a year it will be quite pleasant in a middle of the road key, and will work well with grilled meats or roasts, and also with hearty stews.
2 stars
Rinaldi Francesco e Figli
Rinaldi Francesco e Figli Le Brunate Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up cedar in abundance. Lots of oak, which covers everything else. On the palate it's smooth and soft, with moderately intense cherry and forest berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a decidedly splintery cedar overlay and flow into a warm tannic finish. It is doing its best to digest the oak it was fed, and may succeed, though that is in the future. At present oak marks the wine, and you should consider it only of you like heavily oaked reds.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Giuseppe Rinaldi
Azienda Agricola Giuseppe Rinaldi Brunate - Le Coste Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to white. The bouquet is fairly intense, with nose tingling spice and cedar mingled with some sea salt; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with soft cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by moderate acidity that flow into a clean fairly bright cherry fruit finish in a softer key. A big, soft wine, and if you like the style it is well made. But you have to like the style. If you prefer brighter, brasher expressions of Nebbiolo it's not going to work as well for you.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola G. D. Vajra
Azienda Agricola G. D. Vajra Bricco delle Viole Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and deep cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, with lively sour berry fruit supported by some raspberry strawberry acidity and by slight greenish accents. Pleasant depth combined with extreme youth. On the palate it's a bit more languid than I expected, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by moderately intense sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are quite intense, and lay a tannic veneer over palate and tongue, and flow into a decidedly tongue curling tannic finish. It's a squalling child and needs at least a year if not tow to begin to come together and reason like an adolescent -- assuming what adolescents do can be called reasoning. I would give it the time, because I think it may develop nicely. Quite nicely, and be worth waiting for.
2 stars
Boroli
Boroli Cerequio Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Pale almandine garnet with brownish reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is eye opening, with a rush of shoe polish and the thinner from the liquid paper I used to use (in abundance) when I was a kid typing papers. It's quite strong, and covers most everything else. On the palate it's ample, with soft sour cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by moderate berry fruit acidity that flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish. I would give it time, because the palate is interesting, and I would hope the nose will go in that direction.
Too young to score.
Boroli Barolo Cerequio DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with a great rush of dusky cedar supporting some greenish accents and slight gum Arabic, with a fair amount of alcohol as well, but not much fruit. On the palate it's defter than I expected from the nose, with moderately rich cherry plum fruit supported by some berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a strong cedar overlay and flow into a dusky cedar laced finish. There is powerful fruit, which is quite enough to stand up to the wood on the palate, and that will, I think, with time emerge on the nose as well. It needs a couple of years to get its bearings, and will be graceful in a muscular modern key thereafter, aging well for a decade or more.
2 stars
Marchesi di Barolo
Marchesi di Barolo Sarmassa Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents mingled with some alcohol and some spice, also shoe polish, which is a manifestation from wood, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins, while the direction comes from fairly bright berry fruit acidity. It's pleasant, and though very young, especially the nose, has quite a bit of potential, and will drink nicely with grilled meats or roasts when it has gotten it bearings and come together. I would give it a year or better yet two, and expect it to age well for a decade or more.
2 stars
Brezza Giacomo e Figli
Brezza Giacomo e Figli Bricco Sarmassa Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Dusky dark garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense and quite herbal, with mint and heather mingled with dusky cedar and some greenish accents, while there isn't much fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with mentholated berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by clean bright mineral acidity. It's a bit lax, though this is also youth, because the pieces are working at coming together but really haven't yet.
A score is premature
Azienda Agricola Virna Borgogno
Azienda Agricola Virna Borgogno Preda Sarmassa Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with floral accents -- more generic blossoms than rosa canina, though there is some of that too -- mingled with spice and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's ample and quite soft, with moderately intense plum cherry fruit supported by minerality more than citric acidity and by tannins that owe mich to oak, including their bitter accents and the tongue curling that emerges in the finish.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Virna Borgogno Preda-Sarmassa Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and greenish, with spice and greenish berry fruit supported by some petroleum and cedar, and wet cloth as well. Brooding, and shadowy. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have a greenish peppery cedar laced burr, and flow into a tannic finish with cold coffee overtones. It's quite concentrated, and quite ripe, to the point that the acidity has dropped, and if you like this smooth soft style you will like it, though it needs a year at least to come together and develop. If you prefer zestier wines it won't work as well for you.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Giorgio Scarzello e Figli
Azienda Agricola Giorgio Scarzello e Figli Vigna Merenda Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Almandine ruby with brownish black reflections tending towards orange in the rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and smoky, with some greenish accents too. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggests, with moderately rich cherry fruit supported by lively cherry acidity and by tannins that are smooth and flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. It needs another year for the nose to catch up with the palate, and will drink nicely for 8-10 years thereafter.
2 stars
Terre da Vino
Terre da Vino Paesi Tuoi Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense and pungent, with berry fruit laced with considerable oak, leaf tobacco, and some greenish spice, also quite a bit of alcohol carrying it. On the palate it's fairly rich, with powerful cherry fruit supported by dusky tannins that have a sweet cedary burr and flow into a warm fairly rich berry fruit finish. It's quite young, but has nice potential and will drink well with grilled meats or roasts. It's a touch sweeter than some, and this confers additional roundness.
2 stars
Here, the wine shut down:
Terre da Vino Barolo Paesi Tuoi DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some savory greenish accents and spice. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense dusky cherry fruit supported by mineral acidity and by tannins that have a slightly greenish burr and flow into a fairly quick dry tannic finish. It's pleasant enough, but not as bright as I might have liked; more acidity would have given the fruit a cheeky character it doesn't have.
1 star
Cantina Terre del Barolo
Cantina Terre del Barolo Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Lively almandine garnet with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is bright, with rich berry fruit supported by cedar and some leaf tobacco, and by a fair amount of alcohol. Nice balance and depth in a very youthful key. On the palate it's ample, with rich chewy cherry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a slight youthful burr and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. It is drinkable, but will profit handsomely from another 2-3 years in the cellar, and will age well for 10-15 at least. I would give it time.
2 stars
Terre da Vino
Terre da Vino Essenze Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is very young and still coming together, with berry fruit on one end and cedar on the other, and at present the cedar is a little louder. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by fairly smooth tannins that do have a brisk burr and flow into a warm berry fruit finish. Pleasant, and will drink very well with roasts or stews in a year -- the nose needs time -- and also age well for a decade at least.
2 stars
Terre da Vino Essenze Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit supported by cedar and some black coffee; the combination is sweetish, which may also be alcohol, and brings cola to mind. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich dusky cherry prune fruit supported by moderate acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long finish with fruit at the outset that gradually fades into smoky tannic accents. Pleasant in a fairly international key, and will drink well with roasts or stews; if you like the style, which is nicely polished, but does have sufficient acidity to display a degree of verve, you will enjoy it.
2 stars
Grimaldi Bruna
Grimaldi Bruna Camilla Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Pale brownish almandine with brownish reflections and dusty almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with wet leather and hints of leaf tobacco supported by some minerality and a fair amount of alcohol; there's not much fruit, and it's obviously still developing. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly bright sour cherry fruit supported by brisk sour berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that are delicate, and have some leafy accents, flowing into a fairly tart berry fruit finish. Pleasant in a more traditional key, with the tannins that are showing hints of velvet but have a ways to go yet, as does the bouquet. It will do interesting things, but needs time, and if you like the style it will reward you.
2 stars
Grimaldi Bruna Camilla Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some greenish accents mingled with cedar and some hardwood ash. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit that's supported by engaging minerality and some sweetness derived from alcohol, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean rather dry greenish finish that's fairly long. It needs another year at least for the nose to come together, but promises to be pleasant in a middle of the road key when the pieces fall into place. At present they're scattered, but this is youth.
2 stars
Eredi Lodali
Eredi Lodali Lorens Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by some green leather clean spice, scalded milky cedar, also alcohol and warmth. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by some hints of sweetness and clean bright berry fruit acidity that flow into a warm slightly greenish finish in which a dusky tannic burr emerges. Pleasant in a middle of the road key, though it needs another year to come together and for the tannins to begin to smooth. Enjoyable.
2 stars
Here the second bottle was weaker than the first:
Eredi Lodali Lorens Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with some spice and a fair amount of alcohol, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich plum fruit supported more by dusky bitterness than acidity, and by ample tannins that have a dusky cedar-bitter cocoa burr, and flow into a rather bitter tannic finish. Lots of oak, and though it will fold in with time there isn't that much acidity, which is what a wine needs to age.
1 star
Deltetto
Deltetto Sistaglia Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with intense berry fruit supported by quite a bit of cedar, which balances out, and by greenish vegetal accents with some leaf tobacco and spice. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by ripe plum acidity and by smooth sweet well polished tannins that flow into a clean fresh mineral finish with some prune acidity. It's riper than some, but not overripe, and shows considerable polish; if you like the style, which is elegant and fruit forward, you will like it very much. If you prefer a scrappier more aggressive style it won't work quite as well for you, though you will find things to think about.
2 stars
Agricola Gian Piero Marrone
Agricola Gian Piero Marrone Pichmej Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to brown. The bouquet is intense, and very young, with some berry fruit and a fair amount of cedar mingled with leaf tobacco and some green leather, with hints of rosa canina that emerge as it opens, as do savory accents. Nice balance. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright sour berry fruit supported by dusky berry fruit acidity that has somce leathery accents, and by smooth tannins that have a slightly bitter burr and flow into a clean dusky finish. It's deep in though, but not unpleasant, and will also age nicely for a number of years. I found it growing upon me.
2 stars
Ciabot Berton
Ciabot Berton Ciabot Berton Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with dusky sour cherry fruit supported by some green leather and deft spice supported by alcohol that confers warmth. Harmonious though quite young. On the palate it's ample, and soft, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate slightly sweet berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a sweet cedary burr and flow into a clean bright plum finish with underlying tannic support. It's quite ripe, displaying plum as well as red berry fruit, but not so ripe as to be terminally soft and big; if you like the style you will enjoy it very much
2 stars
Francone
Francone Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Almandine with black reflections and orange rim. The bouquet is powerful, with an initial rush that brings cedar to mind, but with more swishing reveals spicy berry fruit mingled with green leather and some leaf tobacco, supported by a fair amount of alcohol. It's up in the air. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright almost balsamic fruit supported by fairly sweet tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a warm sour cherry fruit finish. There's a disconnect between palate and nose, which is, I think, attributable to youth; it needs at least a year to get its bearings and decide how to land. I think it will be fairly traditional in key and feel when it does, but that's in the future.
Aurelio Settimo
Aurelio Settimo Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. Classic Nebbiolo. The bouquet is old style, with dusty balsamic notes mingled with wet leather and a hint of tart acidity, and also intriguing savory accents that bring Sichuan preserved vegetable (which I like very much) to mind. Quite a bit to think about, and harmonious. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by deft sour berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins with a cool savory underpinning that lead into a slightly salty sour cherry finish that lasts and lasts. Quite pleasant in a traditional key, and will also age very well. A wine worth seeking out if you like the style, and even if you are more of a modernist by inclination you will find things to enjoy.
88-90
Rocche Costamagna Rocche dell'Annunziata
Rocche Costamagna Rocche dell'Annunziata Bricco Francesco Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with savory berry fruit supported by wet leather and pleasant spice; harmonious and complex though still developing. On the palate it's ample, with rich smooth well polished berry fruit supported by moderate acidity, which is enough to provide direction, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a cherry plum finish. I expected a little more tannic structure from the nose; it's harmonious but smoother and softer, and is a wine that you should only consider if you like that style. If you prefer more muscular structure you will find it wanting. In short, particular.
1 star
Rocche Costamagna Bricco Francesco Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is not as clean as it might be, with wet cardboard at the outset, supported by some savory accents and some spice, but not much fruit, and as it airs it becomes muted. Shut tight. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggests, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by bitter accents and moderate acidity, and by tannins that are warm and glancing, and have a warm peppery burr that flows into a rather tannic finish with some plum accents. It's still developing, and needs time; this said, it's ripe but not tremendously overripe, and quite soft. I'd have preferred more tightness and definition.
1 star
Mauro Molino
Mauro Molino Vigna Gancia Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Almandine with brownish black reflections and orange rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of cedar; if one concentrates one can also find fruit, but at present the oak is predominating. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a warm cedary burr and by moderately intense warm berry fruit acidity that flow into a clean fairly dry tannic sour cherry finish. It's very young, and needs another year for the nose to develop and the tannins to fold in, at which point it will be pleasant in a middle of the road key and drink quite well with grilled meats or roasts.
2 stars
Tenuta L'Illuminata
Tenuta L'Illuminata Tebavio Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly sweet, with jammy cherry fruit supported by cedar and nutmeg spice with some eucalyptus too, and a fair amount of alcohol. In mid stride. On the palate it's ample, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by lively sour berry fruit acidity -- almost red currant -- and by tannins that are still young and leave a dry trail of dust over the tongue. It needs a couple of years to come together, at which point it will be fairly traditional in style, and thanks to its acidity, will age very well You have to like the style, which is fairly aggressive, but if you do it will do interesting things.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Stroppiana Oreste
Azienda Agricola Stroppiana Oreste Vigna San Giacomo Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep garnet with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is intense, with savory berry fruit supported by greenish spice and some tobacco, with hints of wet leaves as well. Pleasant. On the palate it's ample, but not as rich as I expected; there's moderately intense cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that are drier than one might have wanted, and also more polished, flowing into a rather tired savory more than fruit driven finish with dry tannic underpinning. I'd have rathered more fruit and livelier acidity.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Stroppiana Oreste Vigna San Giacomo Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, and quite oaky, with an initial rush of cedar mingled with greenish accents and spice, supported by alcohol and a fair amount of bitterness. On the palate it's ample and quite bitter, with moderate berry fruit overshadowed by cedary bitterness that flows into a decidedly bitter tannic finish with dusky overtones. Wood overshadows fruit at present, and though some of it will fold in not all of it will, and it will condition the wine as it ages too.
1 star
Renato Ratti
Renato Ratti Marcenasco Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is quite intense, with a fair amount of cedar mingled with some berry fruit and savory wet leather/cut tobacco, with hints of shellac as well. Lots of wood still being digested. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by bright sour cherry acidity and by tannins that are nicely polished and have some youthful cedar accents, and flow into a fairly long cedar-laced finish. It's pleasant, in a well polished international style; it needs a year or perhaps two to get its bearings, and will age nicely for a decade or more. If you like the style, which is quite approachable, you will like it very much.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Silvio Grasso
Azienda Agricola Silvio Grasso Ciabot Manzoni Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit disjointed, with cherry plum fruit supported by spice and some warmth, while there are also greenish accents and some greenish cedar. As it opens the pieces near, but aren't really together yet. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by mineral acidity and by tannins that have a disnctly oaky burr and flow into a long cedar laced finish. The oak is at present a little more than the fruit can handle, and we will have to see if it can battle back.
1 star
F.lli Monchiero
F.lli Monchiero Roere Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Garnet with black reflections and almandine rim paling to white. The bouquet is intense, with rich floral accents -- some rosa canina, but also fresh blossoms that I don't expect in a Barolo -- supported by greenish notes, acidity, and some scalded milk which may be wood fruit interaction. On the palate it's ample, with rich ripe cherry plum fruit supported by bright but not really powerful acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that display considerable polish and flow into a warm smooth plum-cherry finish with savory tannic underpinning. Pleasant in a decidedly modern (for today; in the 90s this would have been middle of the road) style, and if you like ample fruit driven wines with smooth tannic underpinning you will enjoy it very much. A staunch traditionalist will find it less satisfying.
2 stars
Ciabot Berton
Ciabot Berton Roggeri Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Almandine with black reflections and pale almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with warm sour cherry fruit supported by warm cedar and berry fruit acidity, and also some dusky spice, nutmeg in particular, and some sweetish prune jam accents. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense slightly mineral sour cherry fruit supported by mineral acidity and by tannins that are well polished and display cedary accents, but not the dryness cedar often has. It's approachable in a softer oak driven key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. If you prefer a more traditional style you will find the oak invasive.
1 star
We inadvertently tasted this twice in the fall, and my notes from the two bottles essentially match:
Ciabot Berton Roggeri Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is eye opening, with considerable bitterness and wet cardboard; with swishing this goes away, leaving space to a tremendous amount of oak with some greenish accents. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with soft cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins -- the acidity was polished away -- that fade into long cold coffee and bitter cocoa accents. Oak in a glass, and if you like that you will like the wine. But only if.
1 star
Ciabot Berton Roggeri Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of cedar and some greenish accents mingled with some wood smoke; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggests, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by tannins that have a dusky greenish burr, and flow into a fairly bright finish. The fruit was lively when it was harvested, and was force-fed a lot of oak, which it is trying to digest; it may succeed but we'll need another year at least to find out. I would give it the time, though it will always be a heavily oaked wine.
1 star
Grimaldi Luigino e C. SNC
Grimaldi Luigino e C. SNC Vigna San Biagio Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Brownish almandine with brownish black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is delicate, with rosa canina mingled with dusky berry fruit and wet leather, with some leaf tobacco and hints of prune jam sweetness. Pleasant in a traditional key. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit that's supported by delicate sour cherry acidity -- it's not quite as brisk as I expected it to be - and by tannins that are warm and sweet, and flow into a clean delicate cherry laced finish with mineral acidity and smooth tannic underpinning. It's a graceful wine, more about finesse than power, and will become lacy and ethereal with time. Something to seek out if you like the style; if you prefer more powerful wines it won't work as well for you.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Eraldo Viberti
Azienda Agricola Eraldo Viberti Rocchettevino Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intensely cedar laced with warmth and some scalded milk overshadowing some ripe berry fruit, though there's too mush oak to define the fruit precisely at this point. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by bright berry fruit acidity that flows into a clean sour cherry finish that's quite long. Pleasant in a fairly international key, and needs at least a year -- two would be better -- to get its bearings. At which point it will drink quite nicely with grilled meats or roasts, and because of its acidity has the capacity to age well for a decade at least. A child, but a nice child.
2 stars
Viberti Rocchettevino Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with a tremendous amount of cedar that overshadows most everything else. On the palate it's brighter than I expected on the outset, with fairly rich tart cherry fruit that gives way to a rush of cedar laced splintery tannins that flow into a clean splintery finish. Oak in a glass, and though it does have sufficient brightness and acidity to age for a time as the oak folds in, oak will always play an important part in this wine. If you like the style you will like it, though you have to like heavily oaked wines. If you don't it won't work for you.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Gianfranco Bovio
Azienda Agricola Gianfranco Bovio Rocchettevino Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is intense, with quite a bit of cedar mingled with wood smoke and some medicinal notes, bandages in particular. It's still digesting the wood used to age it. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with bright cherry plum fruit supported by plum-mineral acidity, and by tannins that are ample and very, very smooth, flowing into a clean prune-laced finish. It's quite big and quite polished, and if you like the style, which is fruit driven and ripe but not overripe, you will enjoy it, and I would drink it with succulent drier meats, ranging from roast beef cooked medium through richly flavored roast pork loin or even turkey. If you prefer tighter more driven wines, you will like it less. In short, for some, but not for all.
2 stars
Cascina Ballarin
Cascina Ballarin Bricco Rocca Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to pale orange. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some nose tingling spice and some berry fruit, with slight leather and coffee grounds. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense berry fruit that's livelier and more sour than I might have expected, supported by moderate sour acidity, while the tannins are ample, soft, and fairly sweet, flowing into a clean fairly quick finish. The oak is well dosed but too big for the wine, which does expand to fill it, but comes across as rather dilute, and also overly smooth in an odd way, because there is quite enough acidity to provide direction, and it persists in the finish after other things have fades, but it travels within the path carved out by the oak, rather than directing it. It's like a person who is agile, but has been given a load too heavy to bear and can only plod forward with the weight on his shoulders.
1 star
Cascina Ballarin Bricco Rocca Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with considerable cedar mingled with some spice and gum Arabic, and also cold coffee and some prune fruit, with slight sugar as well. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich prune fruit supported by slight mineral acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that have coffee--cedar overtones, and flow into a clean fairly long prune finish with cold coffee accents. It's quite ripe, and quite concentrated, and quite oaked, and the package works well, though you have to like the style, which is large and decidedly unaggressive. If you do, it will work well with drier roasts along the lines of pork loin. If you prefer zestier wines it won't work for you.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Mario Gagliasso
Azienda Agricola Mario Gagliasso Torriglione Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is frankly rustic, with considerable balsamic warmth mingled with sea salt and lathered horse; there are also hints of stable straw and penetrating savory acidity. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with fairly rich leathery prune cherry fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long warm finish. It's more delicate than I might have expected from the nose, and has an ethereal feel to it that I would have expected more in a few years than from a wine this young. It's pleasant but particular; if you like brasher more muscular wines you'll find it wanting, and because of its softness it's almost a sipping wine as opposed to something to serve with the rich stews and roasts I generally associate with wines whose flavor cast is on the more traditional end of the spectrum. If you like the style you will enjoy it very much, but it is particular.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Gagliasso Mario Torriglione Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents and some spice supported by a scent that brings to mind the Swedish glue my archaeologist father used to assemble pot shards, and this is likely a wood-wine interaction. Not much fruit manages to emerge. On the palate it's ample, with moderate berry fruit supported by greenish cedary tannins that again have that gluey feel, and by moderate acidity, which flow into a long cedar laced finish. Oak in spades, and if you like oak you will like the wine. But you have to like oak, because it will always play a primary role; time will not tame it.
1 star
Cascina del Monastero
Cascina del Monastero Bricco Luciani Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Almandine with brownish black reflections and almandine rim paling to dusky orange. The bouquet is intense, and greenish, with vegetal notes, some pepper, and savory spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich plum cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins, while direction comes from sour cherry plum acidity, and the finish is fairly long and warm with berry fruit acidity. It's ample and fairly soft, and will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews, though it needs at least a year for the cedary components of the tannins, which emerge in the finish, to fold in. I would have liked a little more tightness to it, but if you prefer wines that are less aggressive you will like it.
2 stars
Cascina del Monastero Bricco Luciani Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with berry fruit supported by some greenish accents and slight leaf tobacco, with some brambly underbrush as well. It's still developing. On the palate it's ample and fairly rich, with warm sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are young, and have a slight burr, but promise to smooth nicely with time. It's pleasant in a fairly traditional key, though very young, and needs at least a couple of years to begin to come into its own; when it does it will drink well with hearty roasts or stews.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Silvio Grasso
Azienda Agricola Silvio Grasso Bricco Luciani Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. Darker than many. The bouquet is intense, with a fair amount of sweet cedar supported by alcohol and spice, but not much fruit -- at present the other components overshadow. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that are well polished, but don't reveal the dry oak that wood tanni8ns sometimes do, and flow into a clean warm cherry finish with a savory tannic underpinning. It needs time, at least a year, for the nose to develop and the palate to come together, at which point it will be pleasant in a fairly international key. If you are traditionally minded it won't work as well for you, but if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars
Aurelio Settimo
Aurelio Settimo Rocche Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Lively pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit and slight alcohol. Nobody's home. On the palate it's bright, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by some greenish accents and brisk berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are ample and fairly smooth, though they do have a slight youthful burr, and flow into a clean fairly bright berry fruit finish with some greenish accents, and, as the fruit fades, cedar. It needs time, a year at least and perhaps more for the nose to develop, at which point it will be pleasant in a rather brash muscular key, with lively acidity, and work well with hearty roasts or stews in the short term, while it also has the legs to age well for a decade or more. Worth seeking out. To set aside.
2 stars
Andrea Oberto
Andrea Oberto Vigneto Rocche Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with quite a bit of greenish cedar and some spice, but not much fruit. It's to quite like sniffing a barrel slat, but in that direction. On the palate it's ample, with moderate fruit overshadowed by bitter greenish oaky accents, and by tannins that lay down an oaky veneer and flow into a clean greenish oaky finish. It has been force-fed oak and hasn't digested it; I'm not sure it ever will.
1 star
Cascina del Monastero
Cascina del Monastero Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Pale almandine with brownish black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is deft, with fairly bright balsamic sour berry fruit supported by some saddle leather and hints of underbrush, while there are also hints of rosa canina. Just hints, but emerging. On the palate it's bright, with likely sour cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have a leathery richness to them and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. Quite elegant in a traditional key, and if you like the style, which revolves more around acidity and finesse than power, you will enjoy it very much. If you are instead of a more modern, smoother bent you will like it less.
88-90
Mauro Veglio
Mauro Veglio Rocche dell'Annunziata Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is eye-opening, with a terrific rush of the rubber used for large children's balloons, the kind that when inflated are a couple of feet across. Quite powerful, and I've never encountered this aroma in a wine before; I think it's likely attributable to youth. In the second bottle it is still present to a lesser degree, with an oaky underpinning and some berry fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with plum cherry fruit supported by moderate prune acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a moderately long prune finish with underlying acidity and cedar from oak. It's clearly developing, and the nose, especially, needs time. I would give it a couple of years; it is a wine you should consider if you like ample soft quite ripe fruit driven wines. If you prefer more aggressive, driven wines with livelier acidities and tannins it won't work for you.
1 star
Mauro Veglio Barolo Rocche del'Annunziata DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with sour berry fruit supported by some greenish accents and clean spice; it's still coming together, but displays pleasant depth. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich ripe cherry plum fruit supported by moderately intense mineral acidity, and by tannins that are warm and smooth with cedary accents, and flow into a cedar-laced finish with savory warmth. I'd have liked more brightness to the acidity, which is a bit settled, and settles the wine with it.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Mario Gagliasso
Azienda Agricola Mario Gagliasso Rocche dell'Annunziata Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep brownish almandine with black reflections and pale orange rim. The bouquet is powerful, with an unusual mix of balsamic accents and prune jam sweetness that opens to reveal decidedly greenish notes, and is fairly aggressive. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with plum cherry fruit supported by moderately intense mentholated acidity that has some oaky accents, and by smooth slightly greenish tannins that settle more quickly than I might have expected, and flow into a warm savory fairly alcoholic finish. It0s a bit disjointed and needs a year at least; in terms of style it is fairly modern, with slightly overripe fruit, while the tannins are quite polished and reveal an oaky menthol imprint. I found it a little too soft, and a little too ripe.
1 star
Gagliasso Mario Rocche dell'Annunziata Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly rich, with considerable greenish cedar mingled with some petroleum and fairly intense spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's dusky, with moderately intense cedar-laced berry fruit supported by cedary warmth and tannins that are rather dry, and flow into a warm rather bitter cedar-laced finish that becomes quite dry as the fruit fades. Bitterer too. It's quite young, with a great deal of oak, and it needs at least a year (two would be better) to digest the oak it was fed; I doubt it will be able to digest it all.
1 star
Rocche Costamagna
Rocche Costamagna Rocche dell'Annunziata Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and slightly brownish almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with bright greenish spice mingled with sweet plum cherry fruit and some vegetal notes, with a fair amount of alcohol as well. Nicely balanced though very young. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright slightly greenish finish. It needs time, a year, and is pleasant in a ripe rather soft key; if you prefer more bracing acidities or more aggressive tannins it won't work for you, but if you like this rather soft, rich style it has a cheeky elegance to it.
2 stars
Rocche Costamagna Rocche dell'Annunziata Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some alcohol and savory spice with underlying cedar that gradually emerges. It needs time. On the palate it's moderately intense, with fairly rich dusky cherry fruit with some plum overtones supported by dusky bitter accents and moderate berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a clean rather greenish burr, and flow into a clean tannic finish with lasting warmth. It needs another year to come together; I'd have liked more acidity, but this is also the vintage, I fear.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Gianfranco Bovio
Azienda Agricola Gianfranco Bovio Gattera Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is elegant, in a very traditional key, with balsamic notes mingled with wet leather and spice, and Sichuan preserved vegetable that emerges in an eye-opening rush, and then settles into the background. Particular, but offers ample room for thought. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity that has slight Sichuan savory notes, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long clean rather mineral finish, as the fruit fades leaving underbrush and minerality in its place. It's in mid stride, and I would give it a year to get its bearings and develop. This said, it's particular; you have to like wines that have balsamic accents, and also like wines that aren't too powerful, not too acidic. In other words, if it continues to develop as it is now it's a wine for wine lovers more than the general public, because it does have a story to tell but says it quietly and demands attention.
1 star
Cordero di Montezemolo
Cordero di Montezemolo Bricco Gattera Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with balsamic notes mingled with greenish prune fruit and some milky cedar. Very young and needs time to come together and develop. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich greenish berry prune fruit supported by moderately intense sour cherry acidity that again has greenish accents, and by tannins that are decidedly oaky, revealing considerable cedar that carries at length, gradually fading as does prune fruit. It's a child, and needs time; in terms of style it's modern and heavily oaked, and you have to like ripe oaked wines to like it. If you prefer red berry fruit or tannins that are less cedary you will like it less.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Bovio Gianfranco
Azienda Agricola Bovio Gianfranco Arborina Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Black almandine with black reflections and orange rim paling considerably. The bouquet is fairly intense,with balsamic accents and spice mingled with leathery acidity and hints but only hints of Sichuan preserved vegetable and some underlying berry fruit, while there are also hints of sweet brown sugar. Quite a bit going on in a more mineral (for want of a better classification) key; there isn't much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with moderately bright sour berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit minerality and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm tannic finish: It's like a tensiostructure that has lost air pressure, and though it has ample floor space is not filled out. I'm not sure how else to put it.
1 star
Gianni Voerzio
Gianni Voerzio La Serra Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Inky pyrope with cherry ruby rim. Much darker than all the others, and brings to mind the wines of the modernist school at the height of the movement, in about 2001. One wouldn't guess form the color that it is Nebbiolo. The bouquet is powerful, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by greenish accents and sour cherry acidity with some graphite shavings as well; nice balance and quite charged in a very young key. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by greenish sour berry fruit acidity and by smooth tannins that though sweet do have a dusky bitter undercurrent, and flow into a clean rich berry fruit finish with deft slightly bitter tannic support. Quite pleasant in a rich vibrant key but atypical for Barolo; it is a fine wine that will drink very well with grilled meats or steaks from today, and also age well, but if you are looking for classic Nebbiolo this isn't it, In short, it's very good, and you will like it regardless of your stylistic preference (modern-traditional) because it has much to offer, but it is following its own path.
88-90
Agostino Bosco
Agostino Bosco La Serra Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with rosa canina and wet leather mingled with some sweetness and spice, and supported by a fair amount of alcohol. Pleasant, and the first really distinct rosa canina of the day (!). On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that provide support but don't get in the way, letting the sour cherry acidity carry the show, and I found myself appreciating this very much, thank you. The finish is long, and warm, with sour berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity. Very pleasant in a decidedly traditional key, and will drink well now with roasts or stews, though it also has the legs to age well for a decade or more, becoming lacy and ethereal with time.
88-90
Azienda Agricola Eugenio Bocchino
Azienda Agricola Eugenio Bocchino La Serra Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents and considerable cedar supported by spice and alcohol. It's still developing, and needs another year at least. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense dusky prune fruit supported by moderate -- very moderate mineral acidity and more by tannins that have sweetish cedary accents and flow into a fairly sweet cedar-laced finish. It's settled, and I found it lacking in acidity.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Poderi Marcarini
Azienda Agricola Poderi Marcarini La Serra Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with terrific graphite shaving bitterness mingled with some cedar and grilled bell pepper vegetal accents and powerful underlying minerality. It brings to mind the Nebbiolo from northern Piemonte (which is much more vegetal) to mind and is distinct from all the others poured here so far. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by bell pepper minerality and moderate, almost languid acidity, while the tannins are smooth and oddly soft, though they do reveal some cedary accents, and flow into a clean finish that would be quite soft were it not for the cedary tannins. It's frankly unusual, and quite particular; if you like the style you will enjoy it, but you have to like decidedly vegetal wines.
1 star
Damilano
Damilano Brunate Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with considerable greenish cedar and some berry fruit acidity, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with moderately rich sour cherry fruit supported by fairly bright savory sour cherry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that do have a nicely polished cedary overlay and flow into a clean warm cedar laced finish. I'd have liked a little more intensity to the fruit, which is slightly retiring. This said, it is pleasant but very young, and needs another year at least to absorb the oak, especially on the nose, and begin to show well. It could do very interesting things with time.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Mario Marengo
Azienda Agricola Mario Marengo Brunate Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, and spicy, with greenish accents and some vegetal green pepper, which isn't that common in Langa, but is characteristic of Northern Piemontese Nebbiolo, supported by deft savory accents and some berry fruit acidity. Nice depth. On the palate it's ample, with rich rather languid sour cherry fruit -- there's a pleasing decadence to it -- supported by lively berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long clean sour cherry finish. Pleasant, though still quite young, and has a ways to go before it really shows its best; I would give it a couple of years and expect it to age well for a decade at least.
2 stars
Vietti
Vietti Brunate Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black cherry with black reflections and almandine rim. Dark. The bouquet is powerful and frankly oaky, with greenish accents and cedar that overshadow what fruit manages to emerge from uner the oaky blanket that has been cast over it. On the palate it's ample, and rather bitter, with minerality more than fruit supported by greenish accents and by tannins that lay a cedary veneer over the tongue and carry at length, displaying hints of hazelnut in the very finish. Too much oak, at least for me. It covers all.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Poderi Marcarini
Azienda Agricola Poderi Marcarini Brunate Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, and decidedly vegetal with green pepper supported by considerable graphite shaving bitterness of a sort I associate more with northern Piemontese Nebbiolo; there's also some alcohol, but the matrix revolves mostly about peppers. On the palate it's ample and fairly soft, wit moderately intense vegetal laced berry fruit supported by mineral more than fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a cedary overlay and flow into a fairly dry finish. It needs time, a year at least, but the basic framework is set.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Enzo Boglietti
Azienda Agricola Enzo Boglietti Case Nere Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and almandine rim. Very dark. The bouquet is intense, with cedar and some spice overshadowing most everything else. On the palate it's ample, and soft, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that have a distinctly oaky overlay and flow into a long cedar laced finish. It needs another year to come together, but will always be decidedly oaky in a rich slightly overripe key, and is a wine that you should consider only if you like this style. If you prefer brighter, brasher wines it won't work for you.
1 star
Fratelli Casetta
Fratelli Casetta Vigna Case Nere Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with vanilla and some prune fruit supported by smoky spice. Young, but oaky. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a decidedly oaky veneer to them, and by little else -- there's not much acidity, and as a result the wine is fairly settled.
1 star
Casetta Barolo Vigna Case Nere DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet isn't as clean as it might be, with wet rags mingled with greenish notes and peppery spice, but not much fruit; as it opens some barnyard aromas also emerge. On the palate it's fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by tannins that are quite blocky, laying a veneer over the tongue, and by mineral acidity that flows into a fairly dry tannic finish. I'd have liked greater freshness.
1 star
Michele Chiarlo
Michele Chiarlo Cerequio Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections; it's quite dark. The bouquet is intense, with slightly jammy berry fruit supported by some cedar and prune jam. Considerable concentration. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by bright plum acidity, and by tannins that are ample and smooth, and flow into a clean cedar laced prune finish. It's a bit overripe, with the fruit shifting towards prune, and also quite smooth; it's a style that was much more common in years past, and is something you should consider only if you like big soft very ripe wines. If you prefer more acidity, or tighter tannic structure it won't work for you. Within the context of the style it is pleasant, and will drink nicely with drier meats, but you have to like the style.
2 stars
Michele Chiarlo Barolo Cerequio DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy sour cherry fruit laced with some red plum and pleasant greenish notes, and also some heather and slight savory cedar. Nice balance in a youthful key, and suggests power. On the palate it's full, and fairly rich, with powerful cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by some unexpected sweetness -- perhaps from alcohol -- that makes the wine softer than it might have been and by tannins that are smooth, with a slight burr to them. The sweetness on the palate weighs the wine down, stifling its movements the way a heavy pack might slow a nimble person. Pity.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Enzo Boglietti
Azienda Agricola Enzo Boglietti Fossati Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections. Quite dark, close to poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense, and vinous, with berry fruit supported by some cedar and nose tingling spice. It's still developing. On the palate it's full with rich quite ripe cherry plum fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are decidedly oaky and lay a cedary veneer over the tongue, flowing into a long warm cedar laced finish. It's quite young, and heavily oaked, and needs another year to absorb the oak it has been fed; there is enough fruit to balance it but it needs time. When it's ready it will be middle of the road in key, and drink well with roasts or stews; I would expect it to age well for a decade or more.
2 stars
Commendator G. B. Burlotto
Commendator G. B. Burlotto Acclivi Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rich berry fruit supported by nutmeg laced spice from grape and delicate berry fruit; it's quite harmonious and very young; there are obviously many things yet to develop in the nose. It's not quite like looking at a half-finished canvas, but almost. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with rich red berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish with deft tannic underpinning. Quite pleasant, though again very young and now it's a toddler wandering the schoolyard. It needs at least a couple of years to get it bearings and decide where it will go. It will be worth waiting for too.
90
During the summer it shut down some:
Commendator Burlotto Acclivi Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with spicy cherry plum fruit supported by slight greenish accents and some spice; with some fairly sweet cedar as well. On the palate it's quite ripe and smooth, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate cherry plum acidity, and by tannins that are quite smooth, with a clean cedar underlay that flows into a fairly dry finish that flows into lasting warmth. I found it a little short, but this is in part the youthfulness of the tannins whose splinteriness overshadows fruit.
2 stars
Agostino Bosco
Agostino Bosco Neirane Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with fairly bright berry fruit supported by some cedary accents and underlying bitterness. Not quite as much fruit as I might have liked, nor as much acidity; it is in mid stride and at present the bitter accents have the upper hand. On the palate it's ample and fairly soft, with moderately rich red berry fruit supported by fairly bright berry fruit acidy, and by tannins that are warm and slightly green, with a touch of cedar that will fold in with time but hasn't as of yet. It needs a year, at which point it will be pleasant in a fairly soft middle of the road key -- it's not aggressive -- and will also age nicely for a decade or more.
2 stars
Agostino Bosco Neirane Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with wet leather mingled with greenish accents and spice, and dusky red berry fruit and fairly intense alcoholic warmth; there's also some leaf tobacco. On the palate it's full, with rich ripe cherry fruit supported by moderately intense acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh sour cherry finish. Pleasant in a ripe middle of the road key, and will drink nicely with roasts or stews in the short term, while it also has the legs to age well for a number of years.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Claudio Alario
Azienda Agricola Claudio Alario Riva Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. Quite dark. The bouquet is fairly intense, and cedar laced, with dusky bitterness and some warmth, but not much fruit. A lot of oak here. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a distinctly bitter cedar overlay and flow into a clean rather bitter cedar laced finish with some tart berry fruit underpinning. It is heavily oaked and will always have that imprint, though the wine had sufficient initial acidity to avoid loosing it all to the influence of oak. I found the oak excessive, but the wine is alive thanks to the acidity it maintains, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. I simply think it would have been brighter and richer with less time in barrel.
1 star
Claudio Alario Barolo Riva DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is intense and smoky, with hardwood ash and spice supporting cedar and some berry fruit -- wood and fruit are battling, and at present the wood is winning. On the palate it's powerful, with intense cherry plum fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and by tongue-bending cedar that presents in both the wine and the tannins, and flows into a powerful cedar-laced finish. It's oak in a glass, and if you like the style you will like it, but you have to like the style. If you don't you will find it excessive.
1 star
Castello di Verduno
Castello di Verduno Massara Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit supported by hints of menthol and some warm spice. It's clearly unfinished, and needs time. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by warmth and sour cherry acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm sour cherry finish. It's young, and needs at least a year to come together; this said, I would have liked a little brighter acidity and tannic structure, because the tannins are a touch soft.
2 stars
Alessandria Fratelli
Alessandria Fratelli Monvigliero Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents and some cedar mingled with nose tingling spice. Not that much fruit, though with swishing some cherries do emerge. It's very much developing, however. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich dusky cherry fruit supported by bitter minerality more than berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly rich cherry finish with underlying dusky tannic bitterness that also has some vegetal accents. Ample in a fairly soft key, and is a wine you should consider if you like bigger softer wines that aren't driven by acidity. If you prefer brasher wines it won't work as well for you.
1 star
F.lli Alessandria Barolo Monvigliero DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim paling towards orange. The bouquet is moderately intense, with dusky cherry fruit supported by graphite shavings and some cedar, with a fair amount of alcohol as well. On the palate it's fairly rich, with sour cherry fruit that starts out brightly, with pleasant acidity to provide direction, but is overtaken by cedar laced bitterness that clamps down and drags it into a cedar-laced finish with considerable alcohol and some dusky savory accents. Quite a bit of oak, which the wine has yet to digest. It needs time, at least a couple of years, at which point it will be pleasant in a middle of the road key, and drink well with grilled meats or hearty stews.
2 stars
Bel Colle
Bel Colle Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and slightly funky, with animal tang -- stable straw -- supported by spice and a fair amount of alcohol. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by savory acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long clean savory finish. It's hulking in a way; I'd have liked brighter acidity to give it more verve, because the fruit and the tannic structure are somewhat settled, though I found myself rather enjoying the bitterness, and think it could age nicely for a number of years.
2 stars
Bel Colle Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and greenish, with quite a bit of cedar and a fair amount of alcohol, but not much in the way of fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by clean rather bitter tannins that flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish with dry tannic underpinning. It needs time, at least a couple of years for the nose to come together, at which point it will be pleasant in a middle of the road key, and drink well with grilled red meats -- including lamb -- and also with roasts or stews.
2 stars
Livia Fontana
Livia Fontana Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with quite a bit of alcohol mingled with greenish accents and cedar, while there is also some spice. But not much fruit at present. Lots of oak, however. On the palate it's full and quite smooth, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by some cherry plum acidity, and by ample very smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm smooth finish. It's very big, and very smooth, and is keep from settling by the brightness of the acidity, which has some sour cherry accents. If you like ample soft fruit driven wines you will enjoy it, but you have to like the style. If you prefer more driven acidities and brighter tannins it won't work as well for you.
2 stars
Francesco Sobrero
Francesco Sobrero Ciabot Tanasio Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rustic, with powerful balsamic acidity mingled with equally pronounced barnyard tang (pee more than stable straw) and greenish underpinning; it's zesty and if you like the style enjoyable to sniff. But you have to like the style. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by balsamic acidity and smooth sweet tannins that have leathery accents, and flow into a lasting, warm leathery berry fruit finish with definition from warm sour cherry acidity. Pleasant in a very traditional key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it considerably. And be rewarded if you give it time, because it has nice aging potential too.
2 stars
Francesco Sobrero Barolo Ciabot Tanasio DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit supported by balsamic accents and some brambles, while there also hints of barnyard tang. Quite pleasant in a very traditional key, and has a lot to say. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm fairly tart berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well with grilled meats or hearty stews, and will also age well for many years. One of those wines one hates to pour out at a tasting, and worth seeking out.
90
Fratelli Giacosa
Fratelli Giacosa Vigna Mandorlo Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents and nose tingling spice mingled with bitterness and some red berry fruit, though not too much. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense bitter berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins, and by minerality more than acidity, of which there isn't much. As a result the wine feels rather settled, and I found myself wishing there were more brightness, especially in the finish, which is decidedly dusky and rather bitter. It's flat now and won't perk up in the future because there's nothing to lift it.
1 star
Fratelli Giacosa Vigna Mandorlo Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and slight greenish accents u underlying alcohol. On the palate it's ample and fairly sweet, with bright sour berry fruit supported by warm sour cherry acidity and tannins that have a warm splintery burr. I rather enjoyed it, but it has an element of shyness to it, like a person who doesn't want to be seen, and being retiring is not what one looks for in a wine. As it ages and the tannins smooth it may become more enterprising, but then again it may not.
1 star.
Cavalier Bartolomeo di Borgogno Dario
Cavalier Bartolomeo di Borgogno Dario Solanotto Altenasso Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, in an angry bitter key with some cedar and dusky bitterness mingled with nose tingling acidity and spice, and hardwood ash. On the palate it's ample, and richer than I might have guessed from the palate, with languid sweetish cherry fruit supported by mineral berry fruit acdity and by tannins that have a splintery slightly mentholated underpinning and flow into a warm splintery tannic finish that's fairly long. It's big, and soft, and if you like the style, which is fairly bright because the acidity does keep it up, you will enjoy it. But you have to like the style, which is fairly well removed from brighter, more acidic, more tannic wines.
1 star
Tenuta Montanello
Tenuta Montanello Montanello Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with balsamic accents and spice mingled with greenish cedar and warmth, with some leaf tobacco too, though not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by fairly bright berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that do have a cedary burr, and flow into a warm slightly balsamic cherry plum finish. It's ample, and rather soft, and you have to like the style to enjoy it; I would in any case give it a year or two, because the nose needs more time to develop.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Franco Conterno
Azienda Agricola Franco Conterno Vigna Pugnane Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly bright, with sour cherry fruit supported by some rosa canina and hints of sweet brown sugar mingled with nutmeg and mace, and some wet leather as well; it's very young, but displays a certain harmony in a fairly traditional key and is pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's soft, but bright, with fairly rich lemony sour cherry fruit supported by delicate acidity and smooth decidedly sweet tannins that flow into a fairly sweet finish with sour berry fruit that provides depth and direction. It's an unusual combination of fruit that has a decidedly traditional feel to it and ample softness that is often associated with plum fruit and dusky tannins, though not here. Because of its softness I wouldn't serve it with succulent grilled meats, but rather drier roasts, along the lines of pork loin or even turkey breast.
2 stars
Cavallotto
Cavallotto Tenuta Bricco Boschis Bricco Boschis Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with vinous accents mingled with greenish spice and some but not much berry fruit; there are also hints of barnyard tang as it opens, which resolve into grilled vegetal accents. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean plum laced finish with a dry tannic underpinning and sea salt as well. A big soft wine, which isn't overripe, and if you enjoy the style it will drink well with drier meats.
2 stars
Cavallotto Barolo Bricco Boschis DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. Looks charged. The bouquet is quite ripe, with greenish accents and cedar battling with, and overshadowing to a degree, plum berry fruit. On the palate it's quite ripe, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by fairly bright plum acidity, and by tannins that have a fairly intense greenish accents and flow into a rather angry cedar-laced finish with considerable warmth and a fair amount of alcohol as well. It's very young in a decidedly international key, and needs another couple of years to get its bearings and for the tannins to fold in. at present they are quite peppery, in an angry sort of way.
1 star
Oddero Poderi e Cantine
Oddero Poderi e Cantine Rocche di Castiglione Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Lively black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted; swishing brings up some greenish notes and savory accents mingled with moderate sour berry fruit. Developing, but enjoyable to sniff. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by clean sour berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long tart berry fruit finish. Quick to write, but pleasant in a middle of the road key, and will drink nicely with grilled meats or stews, though I would give it a year to get its bearings before I thought about opening it.
2 stars
It drew into itself over the summer:
Oddero Poderi e Cantine Rocche di Castilglione Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Rich almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and smoky, with some cherry fruit and a fair amount of cedar with some gum Arabic as well. Not much fruit, though there are hints of ripe plum. On the palate it's full, and quite ripe, with plum cherry fruit supported by moderately intense plum cherry acidity, and by tannins that have a warm splintery burr and cedar underpinning with hints of cold coffee. I'd have liked more depth; it's quite dry thanks to the tannins, and the fruit isn't really strong enough to stand up to them. While it's true that they will fold in with time, it's also true that there isn't that much acidity, and that the wine this won't (I expect) hold for that long.
1 star
F.lli Monchiero
F.lli Monchiero Rocche Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some cedar laced berry fruit acidity and hints of bandages; it's in mid stride. On the palate it's ample and soft, with rather settled minerality more than berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and smooth sweet tannins that do have a slight cedary underpinning. I'd have liked more fruit, and more acidity; because overtones he lack of fruit and acidity the wine comes across as fairly flat.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Brovia
Azienda Agricola Brovia Rocche Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted; swishing brings up cedar and slight greenish accents mingled with some spice. On the palate it's ample, soft, and fairly sweet, with jammy plum fruit supported by some berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh plum laced finish. It's big, in a rather overripe key, but displays pleasant acidity and will drink nicely with drier roasts or grilled meats well done. Pleasant if you like the style.
2 stars
Vietti
Vietti Rocche Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with fairly rich slightly sour berry fruit supported by smooth berry fruit acidity and some hints of wood smoke. Still coming together. On the palate it's ample, with rich berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by deft berry fruit acidity that flows into a clean fairly bright finish. Elegant, in a slightly softer key, and will drink nicely with a roast or stew.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Roccheviberti
Azienda Agricola Roccheviberti Rocche di Castiglione Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim; it's quite dark. The bouquet is moderately intense, with cedar laced berry fruit supported by some spice; it's still coming together. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly powerful cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and fairly brisk berry fruit acidity that flows into a clean sour plum finish. Pleasant in an ample, softer key, and will drink nicely with drier meats.
2 stars
Livia Fontana
Livia Fontana Villero Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly rustic, with animal tang mingled with balsamic acidity and some leathery accents; nice balance and quite harmonious in a frankly old style. On the palate it's ample and rich, with fairly intense balsam laced red berry fruit supported by clean balsamic acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that are fairly delicate, and flow into a warm balsam-laced finish with berry fruit and tannic support. Pleasant in a slightly softer key (for a Barolo), and will drink nicely with grilled meats or stews. It grew upon me.
2 stars
Livia Fontana Villero Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly intense and brooding, with dusky balsamic accents supported by a mixture of cedar and barnyard tang, while there isn't much in the way of fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with savory plum fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by smooth tannins that have a savory burr and flow into a petroleum-laced savory finish. It needs time, and I would have perhaps liked a little more fruit.
1 star
Cordero di Montezemolo
Cordero di Montezemolo Enrico VI Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some shellac and hints of wood smoke, and also fairly intense spice. But not much in the way of fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by fairly bright berry fruit acidity that flow into a clean soft berry fruit finish. The nose needs another year or two to get its bearings and develop, while the palate is pleasant in a fairly rich soft key. If you prefer the tighter, more aggressive style of Barolo it won't work for you, but if you like smoother softer wines it will, and it has the added plus of having bright ripe, but not overripe fruit.
2 stars
Boroli
Boroli Villero Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of cedar mingled with some sour cherry fruit and alcoholic warmth; it's clearly developing but has a fair amount to say already. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet soft tannins and by smooth sour berry fruit acidity that carries at length, flowing into a fairly clean tannic finish. Pleasant in a softer key, though it needs time -- a year or perhaps two for the tannins to smooth and settle.
2 stars
Boroli Barolo Villero DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some wet cardboard and slight spice. Not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with fairly bright berry fruit supported by rather bitter acidity and tannins that have dusky bitter accents and flow into a warm decidedly tannic finish. It's out of sorts at present, and I'd have liked greater depth and richness. In short, it needs time to come together.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Giacomo Fenocchio
Azienda Agricola Giacomo Fenocchio Villero Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, and swishing brings up little -- some spice, but not much else. It's shut tight and not about to reveal much. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich slightly sour cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a slightly oaky burr, and by fairly warm berry fruit acidity that flows into a clean cedar laced finish. The nose needs at least a year to decide what it wants to be when it grows up, but if it follows the path of the palate it will be pleasant in an ample fairly soft key.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Villero DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some cedar and greenish accents with dusky hints of gum Arabic. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense sour cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity, and tannins that are warm and cedar laced, laying a dry veneer over tongue and throat. Very dry, and it needs at least a year -- perhaps two -- to get its bearings; because of the dryness of the tannins it will work best with hearty, fatty red meats, including leg of lamb and similar, or rich stews.
1 star
Oddero Poderi e Cantine
Oddero Poderi e Cantine Villero Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with rich berry fruit laced with some balsamic accents it's quick to write but harmonious and will develop nicely as it ages. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins than by berry fruit mineral acidity that grows in intensity like a wave, flow into a fairly long bright mineral finish. It needs a year or two, but is pleasant in an ample softer key and will drink nicely with grilled meats or roasts.
2 stars
Oddero Poderi e Cantine Villero Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up balsamic accents and some stable straw mixed with berry fruit acidity and some hardwood ash, with a slight pungency of alcohol. It's still coming together. On the palate it's ample, and soft, with moderate acidity and moderate fruit, and flows into a warm tannic finish. I'd have liked more fruit than it has.
1 star
Cavallotto
Cavallotto Tenuta Bricco Boschis Vignolo Barolo Riserva DOCG 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by greenish notes and deft slightly greenish spice; it's quite harmonious. On the palate it's full and rich, with fairly powerful cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have some greenish accents and flow into a clean bright slightly tannic finish. It's quite pleasant but still developing, and needs another 3-5 years to get its bearings and figure out what it's about.
2 stars
Cavallotto Tenuta Bricco Boschis Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe Barolo Riserva DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is pleasant, with nose tingling spice mingled with some balsamic acidity and hardwood ash and deft floral accents as well, hints of rosa canina. On the palate it's ample, with rich berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and fairly brisk mineral acidity that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish with deft savory underpinning. Quite elegant in a richer softer key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it very much. One could drink it now, but it clearly has a long way ahead of it, and I would give it 5 years at least.
2 stars
Gianni Gagliardo
Gianni Gagliardo Serre Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with sour cherry fruit supported by strawberry acidity and some leaf tobacco and green leather that emerges as it opens. A fellow taster sys "lovely aroma." On the palate it's rich, with bright berry fruit supported by fairly brisk acidity and lively tannins that have a dusky bitter burr and flow into a clean rather dry bitter finish. It's more austere on the palate than the nose, and needs a year to come together; the bitter accents will accompany it however and it's a wine that needs food --a rich stew will be perfect to provide a counterpoint to the bitterness of the tannins.
2 stars
Gianni Gagliardo Barolo Serre DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents supported by berry fruit and spice, and some balsamic warmth as well; it's quite young and needs time. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry fruit supported by rather understated berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly bright cherry fruit finish with underlying tannic support. Pleasant in a fairly bright middle of the road key, and will drink nicely with grilled meats or roasts in the short term, and also age well for a decade or more.
2 stars
Prunotto
Prunotto Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Almandine with brownish black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted; swishing brings up some penetrating acidity and hints of berry fruit, but not much, and some rosa canina with underlying nutmeg spice. It needs time. On the palate it's ample, with moderate sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, and have a dusky cedary dryness that carries into the finish, which is also savory, at length. It's very young in a rather distant austere key, and needs a year at least to come together. If you like the style you will enjoy it, but if you prefer brighter more fruit forward wines it won't work as well for you.
2 stars
Prunotto Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich in a greenish key, with red berry fruit supported by moderately intense vegetal accents and by fairly intense spice. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by moderate sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a cedary burr and flow into a fairly dry finish. It's a bit too tannic for my tastes, and though the berry fruit does have sufficient acidity to age for a time, oak will always be preponderant.
1 star
Rivetto
Rivetto Leon Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Lively garnet with brilliant black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some gum Arabic and spice, with a fair amount of alcohol too, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly intense sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish with dry tannic underpinning. The nose is behind with respect to the palate, whose fruit is rather graceful in a less charged key, and I would give it a year to come together and develop, and expect it to age well for a decade or more, becoming lacy in a rather austere key.
2 stars
Pio Cesare
Pio Cesare Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Almandine with black reflections and pale orange rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rosa canina mingling with delicate berry fruit, and some underlying cedar and nutmeg spice. On the palate it's fairly rich, though a touch dry, with moderate berry fruit supported by dusky tannins that flow into a fairly dry finish. It's in mid stride, and needs time to come together and smooth, though I would have liked a little more fruit to provide support and verve.
1 star
Pio Cesare Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, and rather greenish, with vegetal notes and brambly acidity supporting some, but not much sour cherry fruit. Nice depth, and as it opens some smoky bitterness also emerges. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards full -- light for a Barolo -- with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by warm savory tannins that have a slight cedary overlay, and by fairly rich mineral-cherry acidity that flows into a clean berry fruit finish. Graceful, in a rather delicate key, and if you like the style it will age nicely with time, becoming rather ethereal.
2 stars
Tenute Duecorti
Tenute Duecorti Due Corti Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit supported by spice and some rosa canina, and also moderate alcohol; nice balance though very, very young. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long clean sour berry fruit finish. I'd have liked a little more intensity to the fruit, but it is pleasant and will age nicely, becoming lacy and slightly austere with time.
2 stars
Gianfranco Alessandria
Gianfranco Alessandria Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and dusky almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some cedar mingled with slight sweet berry fruit; it's shut tight and doesn't want to interact with the world yet. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by slight acidity, and by tannins that are ample and have some cedar to them, and flow into a fairly quick finish. It needs time.
1 star
Gianfranco Alessandria Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim paling slightly to orange. The bouquet is moderately intense, with graphite shaving bitterness mingled with some smoke and cherry plum fruit, and also by a fair amount of alcohol; it gives an impression of being still developing, and at present cedar is overshadowing the fruit. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by spice and vanilla, while the tannins are fairly smooth and have a cedary overlay that flows into a clean cedar laced finish. It's very young, and needs at least a couple of years to get its bearings; and in terms of style is to the more modern end of the spectrum. If you like the style you will enjoy it, though you have to like wines that have seen a fair amount of oak.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Abbona di Abbona Marziano
Azienda Agricola Abbona di Abbona Marziano Pressenda Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to white. The bouquet is powerful, and quite young, with fairly intense cedar and some shellac, but not much in the way of fruit, at least not yet. It's heavily oaked and oak covers most everything in this stage. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by cherry acidity and by tannins that have a warm cedar-laced burr and flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish with cedary underpinning. It's very young in a middle of the road key, and needs another year for the nose to develop and the palate to smooth; I would expect it to age well for a decade or more, and if the nose follows the palate it will be pleasant. But it's not there yet.
2 stars
It pulled in on itself over the summer:
Abbona Marziano Pressenda Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, and intensely oaky, with a great rush of cedar that brings to mind a cedar chest, and little else. Oak in spades that completely obscures the fruit and any other nuances the grapes might have provided. On the palate it's quite bitter, with moderate minerality more than fruit, and dry cedary tannins that flow into a decidedly tannic finish. Oak in a glass, and if you like that you will like it. I found it excessive.
1 star
Josetta Saffirio
Josetta Saffirio Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Dark black almandine with deep black reflections and garnet rim paling to white. Darker than some. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up dusky cherry fruit supported alcohol and some cedar; it has something brooding about it that brings to mind a shadowed forest. On the palate it's ample and languid, with only moderate fruit, plum cherry, supported by mineral more than fruit driven acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long mineral finish with savory accents. I'd have liked more, and brighter fruit.
1 star
Saffirio Josetta Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with smoky notes and hardwood ash supported by alcohol, and some greenish spice. Not much fruit On the palate it's ample and fairly sweet (for a Barolo), with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean warm tannic finish that has some balsamic overtones and underlying bitterness. The nose is likely still coming together, and I would give it a year, though not that much longer because it is ample, with more tannins and bitterness than acidity supporting it.
1 star
Simone Scaletta
Simone Scaletta Chirlet Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Lively almandine with brownish black reflections and pale orange-white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish slightly jammy berry fruit (it brings cugnà to mind) mingled with slight balsamic accents and sea salt, and also some spice. In mid stride, but promising in a fairly traditional key. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by delicate berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long sour cherry finish. It's not powerful, but does display pleasing harmony with considerable finesse, and will I think age nicely, becoming lacy and graceful with time. Great potential.
88-90
Silvano Bolmida
Silvano Bolmida Vigne dei Fantini Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with a rush of the finger paints I used to play with as a kid, which opens to reveal wet earth and some bandages. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with richer than expected sour berry fruit supported by fairly bright sour cherry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long warm finish - warmth and acidity more than fruit. I liked the palate better than the nose, though it is in a lesser key, and given its youth I would give it a couple of years to develop. It could do nice things, becoming lacy with time. But it's too soon to say.
Silvano Bolmida Vigna Dei Fantini Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with deft rosa canina mingled with berry fruit and spice; the overall impression is rather delicate and displays pleasing grace. On the palate it's deft, with lively cherry fruit supported by bitterness more than acidity, and by tannins that are fairly rich and slightly greenish, flowing onto a clean bright berry fruit finish with greenish tannic underpinning. It's pleasant in a slightly willowy rather graceful key, with less body but more coordination than some, and will develop nicely, it needs a year at least, and will age nicely for a decade or more.
2 stars
Josetta Saffirio
Josetta Saffirio Persiera Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and dusky cherry almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with graphite shaving bitterness and some savory accents laced with berry fruit,, and as it opens some green leather and slight tobacco. Still in mid stride. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with fairly rich prune fruit supported more by dusky bitterness than acidity (there is some mineral, but it fades), and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a rather bitter finish. It's lacking in acidity, which makes it seem flat, and also slightly overripe. The latter isn't a problem, but the lack of acidity is, at least for me.
1 star
Saffirio Josetta Persiera Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim; it's quite dark for a Nebbiolo and brings to mind international wines of yore. The bouquet is powerful, though not particularly fruity; there is some ripe plum fruit but to a greater degree smoky cedar and some balsamic accents; it's quite concentrated but still coming together, and the fruit is still under wraps. On the palate it's ample, with brighter than expected berry fruit -- it's more towards cherry -- supported by some savory berry fruit acidity, and by ample tannins that have a soft burr and flow into a clean rather tannic finish with some cold coffee accents and cedar too. It's big, and soft, and though the fruit is holding up to the oak it will never overcome it.
1 star
Pecchenino
Pecchenino San Giuseppe Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Rich almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is moderately intense, with sour berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and some leaf tobacco. Nice balance and fairly rich. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich slightly leathery berry fruit supported by moderate acidic warmth and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean rather dry tannic finish. It's pleasant, but I would have liked a little more acidity, looking more towards the future than the present.
2 stars
Società Agricola Tenuta Rocca
Società Agricola Tenuta Rocca Tenuta Rocca Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some greenish accents mingled with leaf tobacco and some spice, and underlying warmth. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by warm citric mineral acidity and by fairly smooth tannins that do have a slight splintery burr, and flow into a clean mineral laced sour berry fruit finish with bitter accents and dry tannic underpinning. It's in mid stride in a fairly austere key, and needs another year at least to come together and begin to show its best. If you like the style, which is fairly traditional, you will enjoy it. It grew on me.
2 stars
Tenuta Rocca Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Pale almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, and not that well defined; swishing brings up alcohol and some red berry fruit with slight greenish accents, with hints of petroleum too. It's in a stupid phase, I think. On the palate it's fairly rich, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by rather graceful mineral lemon acidity, and splintery tannins that flow into a clean fairly bright finish with dry tannic underpinning. It's more interesting on the palate than the nose would suggest, though terribly young and not at all happy; I would give it a year or two in the hopes that the nose follows the palate, and that the tannins smooth. If it does it will be pleasing in a graceful lacy key, but time will tell.
Monti
Monti Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit and slight spice. Doesn't want to be disturbed. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately rich sour berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity that has some currant accents, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish. It's a bit scattered, going in several directions at once, and I would have liked greater tightness and brightness.
Gianfranco Alessandria
Gianfranco Alessandria San Giovanni Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish accents and graphite shaving spice supporting some leaf tobacco and alcoholic warmth, and some underlying plum berry fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich plum cherry fruit supported by moderate more mineral than fruit acidity, and by smooth tannins that flow into a fairly long finish that has some leafy tobacco accents. It's pleasant in an ample soft key, and if you like the style will drink well with drier meats.
2 stars
Gianfranco Alessandria Barolo San Giovanni DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim; it looks young. The bouquet is initially unfriendly, but gives way to graphite shavings and berry fruit mingled with spice and slight gum Arabic. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright cherry plum fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and tannins that have a warm cedar-laced burr with some graphite bitterness, and flow into a fairly bright berry fruit finish with dry tannic underpinning. The tannins are a bit dry, and though they will smooth with time -- the wine needs a year at least -- I wonder how far they will smooth. Because of their dry aggressiveness the wine will work best with hearty roasts along the lines of leg of lamb, or rich stews.
1 star
Società Agricola Tenuta Rocca
Società Agricola Tenuta Rocca San Pietro Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is muted, with some underbrush and spice laced with slight barnyard tang and hints of leaf tobacco. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by dusky bitterness and sour cherry acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly clean tart berry fruit finish. It's very young, and needs at least a year to get its bearings; this said, I would have liked more verve in the acidity and the tannic structure.
1 star
Tenuta Rocca Barolo San Pietro DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep cherry almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and vinous, with alcohol and bitter accents supporting some underbrush and moderate cherry fruit. It's still developing. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a dry cedar-laced burr, and flow into a fairly bitter cedar laced finish in which the alcohol again emerges, and gradually settles into lasting warmth. I'd have liked more richness to the fruit, which is overshadowed by wood at present. The wine needs a couple of years for everything to fold in, and will age well for a decade or more.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Oreste Stroppiana
Azienda Agricola Oreste Stroppiana Gabutti Bussia Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, with wet leather and leaf tobacco supported by some rosa canina and spice; it's quite young and needs a year at least to begin to think about coming together. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense plum cherry fruit supported by plum acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh plum finish that's not too long. It's sorting itself out and needs another year; this said it is ample in a ripe - almost overripe key, and if you like brighter, tighter wines it won't work as well for you.
1 star
It tightened over the summer:
Stroppiana Oreste Barolo Gabutti Bussia DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is powerful and vinous, and also very young, with bright cherry fruit that has some jammy accents and slight greenish notes. Quite pleasant, and very young. On the palate it's full, and vinous, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by considerable warmth and tannins that have a warm greenish burr, and flow into a clean rather bitter tannic finish with underlying cherry fruit and some leafy accents. Quite pleasant, in a strutting youthful key, and will drink very well with grilled or roasted red meats now; it also will age well for at least a decade.
2 stars
Silvano Bolmida
Silvano Bolmida Bussia Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, with rich floral accents, in particular rosa canina, mingled with berry fruit acidity and some leaf tobacco. Nice balance and promising, though very young. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich slightly leathery berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, though they do display a youthful splintery burr, and flow into a clean slightly sour berry fruit finish. It needs a year, and would profit more from two, but will develop nicely in a middle of the road key, and age well for at least 10-15 years.
2 stars
Silvano Bolmida Bussia Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Lively black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, in a rather nose-tingling key with some greenish accents and moderate berry fruit supported by a fair amount of alcohol and some cedar; it has a brooding quality about it. On the palate it's fairly rich but not really bright, with sour berry fruit supported by bitterness more than acidity (though there is that too),and by dusky tannins that have a savory bitter underpinning and flow into a fairly dusky bitter tannic finish. It's still developing.
1 star
Poderi Ruggeri Corsini
Poderi Ruggeri Corsini Corsini Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and ruby rim; it's quite dark. The bouquet is powerful, and frankly oaky with cedar and spice that overshadow most everything else. Oak in a glass! On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense berry fruit supported more by oaky bitterness than acidity (though hints show there was more acidity present before the oak got started) and by tannins that have strong cedary accents and flow into a decidedly oaky finish. If you like heavily oaked wines you will enjoy it, but only if, and in the long term I think oak will always play an important part.
1 star
Cascina Ballarin
Cascina Ballarin Bussia Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and orange rim; it is quite dark. The bouquet is powerful and frankly oaky, with cedar and a fair amount of spice supporting airy alcohol, while there are hints of berry fruit but it has mostly been covered by the oak. On the palate it's ample and surprisingly sweet, with cherry plum fruit supported by dusky oaky bitterness that is kept from being penetrating by the sweetness, and by some warmth that is the acidity the oak didn't polish away, flow into a plum prune finish. It's quite ripe, and quite heavily oaked, and also fairly sweet. In other words, particular, and you have to like the style to consider it. If you prefer brasher brighter wines it won't work for you.
1 star
Cascina Ballarin Bussia Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim paling to almandine. The bouquet is fairly rich, and fairly ripe, with ripe cherry fruit supported by vegetal notes and greenish accents, and by some sweetness and cedar that becomes more powerful as it opens. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and to a greater degree dusky bitterness that derives in part from cedar in the tannins, and it flows into a clean fairly bitter cedar-laced finish with cherry fruit and lasting cedary warmth. It's still quite young and needs another couple of years to come together and for the oak to fold in, at which point it will be pleasant in a muscular middle of the road key and drink well with roasts or stews.
2 stars
Prunotto
Prunotto Bussia Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with green leather and some spice mingled with leaf tobacco, and slight berry fruit. Promising but very young. On the palate it's bright, with rich sour cherry fruit that has some leaf tobacco bitterness and is supported by sour berry fruit acidity, and by sweet tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a clean slightly greenish finish. It's a babe, but a nice babe, and though one could drink it now with a steak it will reward those blessed with patience, and age well for a decade at least.
2 stars
During the summer the fruit pulled back; involution, if you will:
Prunotto Bussia Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Lively black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is unexpectedly bitter, with quite a bit of cedar mingled with wet rag, and supported by intense smoky pungent notes. It's not inviting. On the palate it's ample, with fairly tannic plum cherry fruit that has cedary accents, and flows into a warm cedary finish with angry peppery accents. Cedar in a glass, and not at all happy to be there; alas; it needs time, and judging it now is like judging someone in mid-fall.
Fratelli Barale
Fratelli Barale Bussia Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with strong leaf tobacco supported by savory accents and some hints of berry fruit, though what really comes through is the tobacco. Very young and for now single-faceted, though I would expect it to di interesting things with time. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that again have slight leaf tobacco accents, and flow into a long warm sour berry fruit finish. One could drink it now but it will richly reward those blessed with patience.
88-90
Azienda Agricola Franco Conterno
Azienda Agricola Franco Conterno Bussia Munie Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, and fairly sweet, with vanilla and cedary spice more than fruit, and swishing brings up some gum Arabic as well. Lots of oak. On the palate it's ample and fairly sweet, with plum cherry fruit supported more by minerality than acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long, fairly sweet plum cherry finish. It's a bit overripe, and very heavily oaked, and if you like the combination you will enjoy it. But only if.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Franco Conterno Bussia Munie Barolo Riserva DOCG 2004
Tasted October 2010
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents mingled with some leaf tobacco and some rosa canina, with underlying nutmeg spice. Nice depth. On the palate it's ample, rich, and fairly sweet, with tobacco laced berry fruit supported by clean delicate acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh slightly tobaccoey finish. Pleasant in a delicate key that revolves more about finesse than power, and while one could drink it now it will reward you if you have the patience to give it a few years.
2 stars
Fratelli Giacosa
Fratelli Giacosa Bussia Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is spicy, with some sour berry fruit and some butter underpinning, which is slightly pungent, and though not really barnyard tang is in that direction. Zesty, and as it opened I found myself rather enjoying it. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit that gains depth from some yellow peach acidity -- something not too common in a Nebbiolo, but that can happen -- and is supported by moderate acidity, and by tannins that are quite dry and splintery, flowing into a dry bitter finish. The palate falls flat for me; though it is young, and will develop, I simply found the tannins too bitter and too dry: they eclipse the fruit. A pity, because I rather liked the nose.
1 star
Fratelli Giacosa Barolo Bussia DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some sour berry fruit and slight greenish accents. Not quite nobody home, but in that direction. On the palate it's brighter than I expected from the nose, with fairly rich greenish sour cherry fruit supported by moderate greenish acidity, and smooth slightly greenish savory tannins that flow into a clean savory tannic finish with some mineral acidity that emerges as the tannins fade. It's more interesting on the palate than the nose, and this is likely a factor of youth; I found the palate pleasant in a rather cheeky key, and if the nose comes in this direction it will be pleasant, while there is sufficient acidity for it to age well for a decade or more.
2 stars
Poderi Colla
Poderi Colla Dardi Le Rose - Bussia Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim that pales to orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish leaf tobacco laced with spice and a fair amount of warmth, and also savory accents. One-directional, but this is youth. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by moderate bitter berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are dusky and bitter, and flow into a decidedly bitter finish. I'd have liked a little more acidity to it, because bitterness can provide direction, but it doesn't have the life acidity has. This said, it is young, and will develop nicely, albeit in a rather brooding key.
1 star
Poderi Colla Dardi LeRose - Bussia Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents and spice supported by red berry fruit and savory notes, and also some leaf tobacco. Quite charged, and very young. On the palate it's rich, with powerful cherry fruit supported by peppery spice and slightly savory berry fruit acidity, which then gives way to a dry tannic veneer that covers most everything, flowing into a fairly long warm tannic finish It needs time, at least a year and perhaps two, and it does have sufficient acidity and fruit to wait that long, at which point it will be powerful in a heavily oaked key. If you like the style it will work well with grilled meats, roasts or stews, but you have to like the style. At present the oak is too invasive.
1 star
Poderi Aldo Conterno
Poderi Aldo Conterno Colonnello Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to white. The bouquet is intense, with rather languid leathery accents mingled with wet tobacco and sea salt spice; it's pleasant but very young, and clearly has a ways to go. On the palate it's ample and rich, with fairly intense cherry plum fruit supported by mineral acidity and by tannins that have a clean slightly greenish burr and flow into a fairly long sour berry fruit finish. It needs time, at least a year and two would be better, but will develop nicely and will age well for a decade or more.
2 stars
Costa di Bussia
Azienda Agricola Costa di Bussia Costa di Bussia Tenuta Arnulfo Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with savory leaf tobacco supported by a fair amount of alcohol and penetrating spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, soft, and fairly sweet, with plum cherry fruit supported by moderately intense mineral acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly rich, fairly sweet plum finish with underlying dry tannic spice. It's quite ripe, and still coming together but if you like the style, you will enjoy it. You have to like the cast of the fruit, however, and if you prefer fruit that is more towards cherry it will work less well for you.
1 star
Costa di Bussia Barolo Tenuta Arnolfo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted at the outset, though swishing brings up some berry fruit mingled with greenish accents and spice, and fair sweetness as well. On the palate it's fairly rich, with lively cherry fruit supported by warmth and by tannins that have a warm splintery burr and flow into a dry rather tannic finish. It's heavily oaked and the oak tannins are quite dry; it needs a year or perhaps two for them to fold in, and I fear they will always have a dry cast to them.
1 star
Monti
Monti Bussia Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with brownish black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with rich leaf tobacco supported by some greenish accents and some bitter cedar as well. Nice depth, and has a fair amount to say. On the palate it's ample, with soft frankly generic berry fruit supported more by minerality than berry fruit acidity, and by very smooth sweet tannins that have a sweetish oaky cast that almost brings scalded milk to mind. The palate was something of a disappointment; there isn't much acidity, nor much fruit.
1 star
Parusso Armando di Parusso F.lli
Parusso Armando di Parusso F.lli Bussia Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim paling to orange; it's quite dark. The bouquet is powerful, with some pungent notes and quite a bit of oak mingled with barnyard tang; the overall impression is eye-opening. On the palate it's ample and soft, with ripe plum cherry fruit supported by moderate -- very moderate -- acidity and by tannins that though smooth do have a slight cedary burr, and flow into a rather bitter plum finish. It's settled, and I don't think it will ever manage to get up.
1 star
Parusso Armando Barolo Bussia DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. the bouquet is powerful, and pungent, with some barnyard tang mingled with wood smoke and some lathered horse, also sea salt and spice with penetrating accents. On the palate it's unexpectedly green, with greenish berry fruit supported by peach pit bitterness and mineral acidity, and by tannins that are fairly smooth, and flow into a greenish bitter finish. I don't associate peach pit bitterness with Barolo but we have it here, and it is, I think, an effect of the oak, which is pervasive and overshadows fruit. I would give it a couple of years to get its bearings.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Giacomo Fenocchio
Azienda Agricola Giacomo Fenocchio Bussia Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some leaf tobacco and slight balsamic accents mingled with spice and a certain cheeky (slight) sweetness. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean savory finish. The nose clearly needs time. The palate is fairly direct, and while this is a factor of youth, I found the tannins to be a little drier than I might have liked; it's a wine that will need rich meats to accompany it, for example hearty stewed game or leg of lamb. I would give it time because I think it does have potential it's not expressing now.
2 stars
Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Bussia DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some savory accents and delicate spice; it's in a very closed phase. On the palate it's fairly bright, with slightly greenish berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a fairly quick dry bitter finish. I'd have liked greater depth and richness of fruit than it displays; in its defense it is clearly very young and hasn't yet gotten over bring bottled. It may do interesting things with time, but time will tell.
1 star
Fratelli Alessandria
Fratelli Alessandria Bussia Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Almost impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with considerable leaf tobacco supported by greenish spice and a fair amount of alcohol with oak that emerges with swishing; it's a work in progress and will develop, but has a ways to go. On the palate it's ample and rich, with fairly powerful cherry fruit supported by deft though not too bright berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. It's more along on the palate than the nose, though both are developing, and is middle of the road in style, with tannins that have a smoothness from oak, which is not however excessive. I would give it at least a couple of years and expect it to age well for a decade or more.
2 stars
Elio Grasso
Elio Grasso Gramolere Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep almandine with black reflections and orange rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of cedar mingled with spice and some leaf tobacco; there's not much in the way of fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by unexpected sour cherry laced mineral acidity, which carries at length, while the tannins are smooth and soft. It's heavily oaked but has survived the insult, at least on the palate, and the fruit is battling back; this said it will probably never be really vibrant, but if you like ample soft wines that are quite smooth but not overripe -- the fruit is cherry and forest berry fruit with underlying tartness -- you will enjoy it.
1 star
Seghesio Fratelli
Seghesio Fratelli Gavarini Chiniera Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with inky black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with a terrific amount of greenish cedary oak that overshadows most everything. On the palate it's ample, with moderate fruit supported by oaky bitterness and some savory accents. Lots of oak, which has sapped the acidity from the fruit, and therefore also its life.
1 star
Mauro Veglio
Mauro Veglio Vigneto La Villa Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Quite dark, with black almandine that's almost brigh in color, and black reflections with almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with quite a bit of oak -- cedar in abundance -- and some spice, also from oak. It's like a blanket that covers all. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich plum fruit supported by mineral acidity more than fruit, and by tannins that have a cedary burr and flow into a cedar laced finish. I'd have liked greater depth to it than I found. Oak predominates.
1 star
Pecchenino
Pecchenino Le Coste Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright greenish jammy accents and red berry fruit supported by clean smooth spice. On the palate it's bright, with rich berry fruit supported by fairly bright sour berry fruit acidity that settles into a more mineral cast in the finish, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Graceful, though very young, and needs another year at least to come together, and will age well for many years thereafter. Enjoyable in a slightly traditional key; even if you are more modernist you will find things to appreciate, and it will be interesting in the future.
2 stars
Podere Rocche dei Manzoni
Podere Rocche dei Manzoni Big d'Big Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with cola - a wood-fruit interaction - as the first aroma supported by cedar and greenish spice. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense berry fruit that is supported by slight acidity and by oaky bitterness that carries through in the tannins too. It's very young, and though there is considerable fruit is still digesting the oak it was fed; it brings to mind a goose who was nailed to the floor and fed corn to fatten its liver. Unlike the goose the wine may recover, but it needs time, at least a couple of years, and I would give it more because it may do interesting things in the future.
2 stars
Parusso Armando di Parusso F.lli
Parusso Armando di Parusso F.lli Le Coste Mosconi Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Dark black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange at the nail. One of the darkest from Monforte. The bouquet is powerful, with balsamic accents I didn't expect (given the color I expected oak) supported by splice and some leaf tobacco with a fair amount of alcohol and some spice, and as it opens barnyard tang. On the palate it's ample and fairly sweet, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderately intense sour cherry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into an ample berry fruit finish with some acidic underpinning. It's big, and soft, but with slightly sour greenish fruit rather than ovveripe plum fruit, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. If you prefer tighter more aggressive wines it won't work as well for you.
1 star
Parusso Armando Le Coste Mosconi Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense and quite savory, with some balsamic notes and bright greenish accents supported by graphite shaving bitterness and fair spice. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with moderately intense rather bitter greenish berry fruit supported by tannins that have warm cedary accents and flow into a fairly bitter greenish finish. I'd have liked more depth, and greater richness to the fruit.
1 star
Podere Rocche dei Manzoni
Podere Rocche dei Manzoni Vigna Cappella di Santo Stefano Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Dark black almandine with inky black reflections and almandine rim. Quite dark. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar and some spice, but not that much fruit -- the oak overshadows it, and as it opens cedary bitterness only increases. On the palate it's ample and fairly rich, with brighter than expected berry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity and by tannins that are quite cedar-laced and flow into a greenish cedar laced finish with some berry fruit underpinning. It's very oaky, but has sufficient fruit to at least try to make a stand against the encoracher, and it will be interesting to see if the fruit succeeds in battling back. At present it is largely overshadowed, but the wine is very young, and this could change with time.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Guido Porro
Azienda Agricola Guido Porro Vigna Santa Caterina Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to white. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some spice. Not much else, however; it doesn't want to be disturbed. On the palate it's ample and fairly rich, with clean fresh berry fruit supported by deft slightly sour berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long sour berry fruit finish. The nose needs time, at least a year, but the overall impression is positive, and if you like the more traditional style it will be going places.
2 stars
Porro Barolo Vigna Santa Caterina DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some red berry fruit supported by fairly bright greenish accents and some spice. On the palate it's full, with lively cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm deft berry fruit finish with a considerable tart underpinning that flows into lasting warmth. Pleasant in a fairly traditional key, though it does need time for the nose to come together. If you like the style, which is more towards the aggressive end of the spectrum, you will enjoy it, and because of its acidity it also has the capacity to age quite well.
2 stars
Paolo Manzone
Paolo Manzone Serralunga Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is powerful, and rather voluptuous, with candied berry fruit supported by greenish accents and some green leather and leaf tobacco. Interesting, in a ripe but not overripe key, with considerable concentration, and a degree of sweetness. On the palate it's ample, with rich fairly sweet cherry plum fruit supported by smooth mineral acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a finish that has unexpected savory accents in the end. The palate it much less opulent than the nose, but pleasant in a full soft fruit driven key, and if you like the style, which is ripe but not overripe, you will enjoy it.
1 star
Paolo Manzone Barolo Serralunga DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and quite ripe, with a mixture of plum prune and vanilla that has greenish vegetal highlights and hints of sandalwood; as it opens there is also some petroleum. Unusual for a Barolo. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with fairly rich jammy cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and by very smooth well polished sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly greenish mineral laced plum fruit finish. It's powerful, and smooth, and if you like this style you will enjoy it, say with a substantial, dry roast, but you have to like the style, which is less muscular and less steely than I generally find Barolo to be.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Guido Porro
Azienda Agricola Guido Porro Vigna Lazzairasco Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange on the nail. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of cedar that has some greenish accents and overshadows most everything. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and by tannins that are quite smooth, and flow into a mineral finish. I'd have liked greater depth, and more brightness to the fruit, which submits to the oak.
1 star
Porro Barolo Vigna Lazzairasco DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Pale almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up some brambly berry fruit laced with wet paper and some greenish notes, and also a fair amount of alcohol. It needs time. On the palate it's fairly rich, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by brisk sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are warm and have a dry cedary burr to them, flowing into a dry savory tannic finish with some sour berry fruit. It's very young, and still in an angry phase, coming together but not happy about where it is. It needs another year at least and perhaps two for all the elements to meld, at which point it will be a fairly brash expression of Barolo, with considerable acidity and lively tannins. If you like the style you will like it, but you'll have to like more aggressive wines.
2 stars
Azienda Vinicola Palladino
Azienda Vinicola Palladino Serralunga Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Very dark, with black almandine and black reflections, and orange in the rim. The bouquet is oaky, with coffee grounds and a fair amount of greenish cedar, but not much in the way of fruit. On the palate it's ample, with brighter than expected berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have decidedly cedary overtones and flow into a clean slightly greenish finish. There's a lot of oak and it will always play an important part in the wine, but there is considerable fruit as well, which will reemerge with time; I would give the wine a coupe of years at least and expect it to do interesting things over the next 10 years or more. But it needs time. Desperately.
2 stars
Azienda Vinicola Palladino Serralunga Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, though still developing, with some deft rosa canina mingled with berry fruit and some spice. Nice depth and pleasing harmony, but still coming together. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a clean fresh finish. It's pleasant, though a touch more acidity would have been nice; this said, it will drink nicely with grilled meats or stews, and also has the legs to age well for a decade or more, becoming graceful and lacy with time.
2 stars
Giovanni Rosso
Giovanni Rosso Serralunga Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with cocoa and some coffee, mingled with spice. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense cherry and forest berry fruit supported by rather slight mineral acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly bright berry fruit finish. To be frank I didn't expect the fruit to be as bright as it is; the problem for me is the acidity, which is fairly flat, and in my experience acidity doesn't develop with time.
1 star
Rivetto
Rivetto Serralunga Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with sweetish cedar mingled with some berry fruit and slight spice. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, soft, and fairly rich, with sweetish berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly dusky mineral finish with cedary tannic underpinning that isn't too dry. It's big and soft, and I would have liked more brightness and verve to the fruit, which is rather settled.
1 star
Rivetto Barolo Serralunga DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish notes and some spice, but not much fruit -- at least at first swish; further swishing brings up some bitterness but again not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with rather bitter cherry fruit supported by bitterness more than acidity, and by tannins that have considerable cedar to them, and flow into a fairly long greenish cedar-laced finish with underlying warmth. There's a certain pungency to it, which I find off-putting; the wood is taking the lead, and stepping into shoes that should belong to fruit. This said, it is also very young, and with a year or two in bottle the wood will fold in. In short, it's really not ready.
Gemma
Gemma Colarej Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and rather balsamic, with wet leather mingled with greenish tobaccoey accents. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich leathery berry fruit supported by smooth sweet balsamic acidity and by smooth tannins that flow into a warm slightly leathery finish. Pleasant in a traditional key, and more about finesse than power; if you like the style you will enjoy it very much, but you have to like the more traditional style.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Claudio Alario
Azienda Agricola Claudio Alario Sorano Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and some almandine in the rim; it's close to poured ink. The bouquet is intense, with considerable cedar mingled with some greenish accents and quite a bit of alcohol, and also some green leather and slight leaf tobacco, with underlying warmth. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by considerable warmth and deft sweet plum acidity, with tannins that are smooth and flow into a clean plum laced finish with slightly cedary tannic underpinning. It's quite ripe, with the fruit more plum than berry fruit, but pleasant in this context and if you like the style will drink well with grilled meats or roasts, and will also age nicely for a number of years.
2 stars
Claudio Alario Barolo Sorano DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, with a great rush of cedar mingled with cocoa and cold coffee. Wood in a glass, and though there are hints of berry fruit they are under wraps. On the palate it's full and quite smooth, with moderately rich cherry plum fruit supported by bitterness and tannins that have a great deal of cedar to them, and flow into a clean cedar-laced finish. It's extremely oaky, and the oak has polished it while holding acidity in check; is said within the style it is deftly done, and if you like this modern (for want of a better term) concentrated heavily oaked style you will enjoy it. But you have to like the style..
1 star
Ascheri
Ascheri Sorano Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, and fairly green, with spicy accents and cedar more than leaf tobacco, supported by a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and fairly bright acidity; to be frank I expected the fruit to be riper than it is, and the berry fruit accents are quite nice; it needs a year or perhaps two, and will drink nicely with grilled meats or roasts in the short term, though it also has the capacity to age well for a decade or more. In terms of strictly stylistic considerations, it is ripe but not overripe, and well oaked; if you find oak an anathema you won't like it, but otherwise you will.
2 stars
Ascheri Barolo Sorano DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with slightly balsamic sour cherry fruit supported by spice and deft warmth. Pleasant in a fairly traditional key. On the palate it's full and rich, with fairly intense sour cherry fruit supported by clean balsamic acidity and warmth, and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a clean warm berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. Pleasant, in a fairly traditional key, and though one could drink it now it will also age nicely for a decade or more.
2 stars
San Biagio
San Biagio Sorano Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with rather voluptuous sweet mentholated cherry fruit supported by spice and alcohol; it's harmonious and quite young, and has a fair amount to say. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry and forest berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and by tannins that have a warm cedary burr and flow into a clean fresh cedar-laced finish. Pleasant in a decidedly modern key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. If you are more traditional in your tastes it will work less well for you, though you will find things to think about. It does in any case need a couple of years to come together and get its bearings.
2 stars
Ascheri
Ascheri Sorano Coste e Bricco Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Impenetrable black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up greenish accents and an idea of sweetness mingled with some plum fruit and fairly intense spice. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with moderately rich plum berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and by tannins that are warm and splintery with a decidedly cedary overlay that flow into a bitter finish. It's decidedly oaky, and needs another year at least to absorb the oak, which is fairly intense; it will age for another decade or perhaps more thereafter. If you like well made heavily oaked wines you will like it, but you have to like the style.
2 stars
Ascheri Sorano Coste e Bricco Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some berry fruit and cedary accents supported by spice and warmth; the overall impression is fairly mutes, with the wood leading the way and alcohol on its heels. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by dusky acidity that could have been brighter, and by some bitterness, while the tannins are ample and smooth, with an appealing savory cast. I'd have liked more to the acidity, which is present but doesn't really brighten the wine. This said the palate does have a certain charm, and if you like cherry driven wines but don't like acidity you will enjoy it; do give the nose a year at least to com around, however.
2 stars
Cascina Cucco
Cascina Cucco Cerrati Vigna Cucco Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Impenetrable black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is intense and rather bitter, with greenish accents mingled with bitter cedar; there's not much fruit and cedar form oak is carrying the show. On the palate it's brighter than I expected, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by deft plum acidity, and by tannins that owe much of their smoothness and bitterness to oak, and flow into a clean bitter oak-laced finish with berry fruit underpinning that is saved by some berry fruit acidity. It's been oaked to the gills, but there is powerful fruit that is able to balance the oak, and will with time I think emerge victorious. I would give it 2-3 years, and expect it to age well for a decade or more. But it needs time, rather like a person who has overeaten needs time to recover. The potential is there.
2 stars
Cascina Cucco Cerrati Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with very dark reflections and almandine rim paling to orange on the nail. The bouquet is fairly intense, with sour berry fruit laced with greenish graphite shaving accents that are more common in the Nebbiolo of Northern Piemonte, and by some leather and leaf tobacco as well. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by fairly dusky berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight sweet cedary overlay and flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish with a clean bitter underpinning that also reveals some prune fruit. It's very young, and needs time, at least a year and perhaps more; if you like the style, which is powerful in a middle of the road key, you will enjoy it. But do give it time.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Brovia
Azienda Agricola Brovia Cà Mia Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. Lighter than some. The bouquet is fairly intense, with dusky graphite shaving bitterness mingled with slight greenish accents and some acidity; it's quite harmonious, and obviously quite young. On the palate it's full with fairly rich plum cherry fruit supported by mineral acidity and tannins that have sweetish cedar accents and flow into a clean fairly rich plum-laced tannic finish. It's a child, and needs time, at least a year and two would be better; in terms of style it's modern with a fair amount of oak, and if you prefer wines that display a degree of oak it will work better for you.
1 star
Grimaldi Bruna
Grimaldi Bruna Badarina Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Fairly deep almandine with brownish black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is intense, with dusky berry fruit supported by a fair amount of spice and some greenish accents laced with cedar, and also some graphite shaving bitterness. Very young, and needs time. On the palate it's ample, with rich berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by fairly bright berry fruit acidity, while the tannins flow onto a clean berry fruit finish with some sacalded milk bitterness that is due to the youth of the wine. It's quite pleasant but needs at least a couple of years to get its bearings and will age nicely for a decade or more. Expect it to do interesting things with time.
2 stars
Grimaldi Bruna Badarina Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents and some berry fruit supported by spice and alcohol; it's very young and clearly developing. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by plum laced acidity and warmth, and by smooth tannins that flow into a fairly rich clean berry fruit finish with savory, peppery tannic underpinning. It's pleasant, in a ripe middle of the road key, but needs time, a year at least, to get its bearings. Something to think about if you like ripe fruit, towards plum, supported by lively acidity and firm tannins.
2 stars
Gigi Rosso
Gigi Rosso Arione Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Very dark black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is intense, and greenish accents and some leaf tobacco mingled with savory spice. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly soft berry fruit supported by tannins that are very dry, and very splintery, and flow into a splintery finish. It's quite up in the air and needs time because it's not at all happy. I'd like it to at least land before I judge it.
Pio Cesare
Pio Cesare Ornato Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense and decidedly greenish, with cedary accents and spice, but not much in the way of fruit. Coffee grounds, and green notes, but not fruit. On the palate it's ample and smooth with fairly sweet prune berry fruit supported by acidity that's a mix of mineral and berry fruit, and is supported by tannins that are warm and splintery, and flow into a decidedly tannic finish. Tannic, with a great lot of oak, and not that much fruit; I'd have liked more fruit and more acidity -- which may have been there before the oak polished it -- and less cedar.
1 star
Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright cherry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and some greenish accents that are in turn supported by cedar, leaf tobacco and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's full, and riper than I expected, with intense plum cherry fruit supported by moderate plum acidity and tannins that have a distinct cedar overlay to them that confers cocoa and cold coffee accents, and flow into a clean cocoa laced finish with decidedly dry tannins. It's quite ripe, and strongly oaked, and also very young; it needs a year or two to balance and come together, at which point, if you like the style, you will enjoy it. If you prefer livelier acidity and less ripe fruit it will work less well for you.
2 stars
Massolino
Massolino Parafada Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some greenish accents, and spice. Not much fruit, and it gives an impression of oak. On the palate it's richer than I expected, with fairly full cherry plum fruit supported by mineral acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that do reveal oaky accents but aren't splintery, and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. It's ample, soft, and quite ripe but not badly overripe, and if you like the style, which does have considerable tannic muscle, you will enjoy it. If you prefer brighter fruit it won't work so well for you.
2 stars
Massolino Barolo Parafada DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted --shut tight, and swishing only brings up slight sour cherry fruit and a hint of alcohol; it brings to mind a tightly shuttered house. On the palate it's direct, with fairly bright sour cherry fruit supported by considerable alcoholic warmth and by some tart acidity, while the tannins are fairly smooth, but have a slightly clunky feel to them, and flow into a warm finish with some underlying tartness that is more acidity than fruit. It lumbers, and I'd have liked more brightness and richness overtones the fruit.
1 star
Schiavenza
Schiavenza Broglio Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with leaf tobacco and some green leather mingled with greenish accents and spice with some cedar as well. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by mineral more than fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. It's big, and soft, but not overripe, and will drink well with grilled meats or roasts, though it needs another year to get its bearings and come together. If you like the style, you will enjoy it, and it will also age nicely for a decade or more.
2 stars
Cascina Luisin
Cascina Luisin Leon Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Impenetrable black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. Close to poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense, and warm, with cedar-laced plum fruit supported by penetrating acidity that brings coffee grounds to mind. Young, in a ripe oaky key. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit (it's quite ripe) supported by bitter cedar laced acidity and tannins that are frankly cedary, laying a veneer over the tongue that settles in and refuses to leave. Though the oak will smooth with time you should only consider it if you like this style. I found it a bit much.
1 star
Germano Ettore
Germano Ettore Prapò Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is spicy, with some greenish accents but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich, fairly sweet cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by fairly bright acidity, while the tannins are clean and cedar laced but not excessively so, and it flows into a clean rather dry tannic finish. It needs at least a couple of years, perhaps more, and will drink well with grilled meats or roasts, including fattier cuts thanks to the dryness of the tannins. Considerable power, and pleasant, though you have to like the style. If you like brighter acidities it will work less well for you.
2 stars
Schiavenza
Schiavenza Prapò Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Dark: Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar and some greenish accents, though what really comes out at present is the cedar. On the palate it's ample and fairly sweet, with plum cherry fruit supported by plum mineral acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean finish. It's big, and soft, but not overripe, and if you like ample soft wines with a serious tannic underpinning you will enjoy it. It will also age nicely for a number of years.
2 stars
Paolo Manzone
Paolo Manzone Meriame Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with greenish spice mingled with leaf tobacco and ripe berry fruit with some dusky shadowy notes as well. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry fruit supported by mentholated acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh bright berry fruit finish. It's quite young, but pleasant, and will drink well with grilled meats or roasts in the short term, and also has the capacity to age well for a decade or more. It's fairly international in style, and if you like the style (or even if you are more traditionally minded) you will like it, because it has quite a bit to say.
2 stars
Paolo Manzone Meriame Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is quite fresh, with intense floral accents (not rosa canina) that are surprising for a Barolo, supported by ripe fruit, sweetness, and vegetal notes mingled with leaf tobacco. Unusual, and as it opens the leaf tobacco comes more to the fore. On the palate it's ample, and fairly rich, with warm cherry fruit supported by moderately intense berry fruit acidity and by ample smooth tannins that flow into a warm smooth finish that does have some peppery accents; it's rather lax, with the tannins that spread out to flow into every nook and cranny rather than hold the wine tightly and provide direction and definition; I'd have preferred greater tightness and depth.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Luigi Pira
Azienda Agricola Luigi Pira Marenca Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with a fair amount of cedar mingled with some greenish accents and hints of shellac. Lots of wood. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate fruit supported by mineral acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean soft finish; the oak isn't a problem, but I would have liked richer fruit than I found.
1 star
Massolino
Massolino Margheria Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. Poured ink, and brings to mind the wines of the modernist school from years ago. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some cedar and some coffee grounds. Not much else. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins, while there isn't much in the way of acidity, and as a result it comes across as a bit flat. Something I wouldn't have liked, but that has happened.
1 star
Massolino Margheria Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some greenish accents and slight savory notes. Not much fruit. Hints of wet paper, but not fruit. On the palate it's ample and fairly soft, with cherry fruit that's brighter than I expected from the nose, supported by moderately intense cherry mineral acidity, and by tannins that are rather blocky with a cedar veneer, and carry into a warm slightly greenish tannic finish. The fruit has a pleasant tart cast but is retiring, almost shy, and as a result the other elements, the tannins in particular, step in to take its place. And do what they can, though they can only do so much.
1 star
Germano Ettore
Germano Ettore Cerretta Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, with some greenish notes and green leather mingled with some leaf tobacco, and some plum accents, though there isn't much fruit. On the palate it's ample, and quite ripe, with fairly rich plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and plum mineral acidity that flow into a fairly rich mineral finish with tannic underpinning. It's ample and ripe but not tremendously overripe and if you like the style you will enjoy it, though you have to like big soft wines that also have quite a bit of alcohol.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola G. D. Vajra
Azienda Agricola G. D. Vajra GD Vajra Luigi Baudana Cerretta Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted May 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fresh, with elegant rosa canina mingled with some berry fruit and spice; it's quite young, but displays promise and with respect to many of the Serralunga wines displays more poise. On the palate it's full and rich, with elegant berry fruit supported by hints of leaf tobacco and clean bright mineral acidity, while the tannins are smooth and very deft, flowing into a clean bright finish. It's quick to write but quite graceful, with considerable underlying power, and very pleasant. It's also quite young, and will do extremely interesting things if you have the patience to give it time.
88-90
Rivetto
Rivetto Arione Barolo Riserva DOCG 2004
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and fairly sweet, with considerable spice mingled with leaf tobacco and savory accents, and clean spice as well. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by mineral more than fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh finish. Elegant, though I would have liked brighter acidity; what there is is sufficient at present, but I fear it will flag within 3-5 years, and that seems soon for a Barolo Riserva. I may be wrong, and hope I am, but this is my impression.
2 stars
Gigi Rosso
Gigi Rosso Arione dell'Ulivo Barolo Riserva DOCG 2004
Tasted October 2010
Almandine with black reflections and orange rim. The bouquet is delicate, with some rosa canina and spice mingled with leaf tobacco and spice; it's a child but going in an interesting direction. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry fruit supported by lively savory berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long clean finish. Quick to write, but there0's great depth and it is at the beginning of a long, long climb. Something to seek out if you're traditionally minded, and even if you prefer the more modern fruit driven style you will find things to think about. It may even convert you. You could drink it now, but it will reward those with the patience to give it several more years.
88-90
Massolino
Massolino Vigna Rionda Barolo Riserva DOCG 2004
Tasted October 2010
Pale almandine with brownish black reflections. The bouquet is deft, with leaf tobacco mingled with rosa canina and spice. Nice depth and still very young. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by clean savory acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh rather savory finish with berry fruit underpinning. It's still very young but displays considerable depth and is quite pleasant now, though I would give it at least 4-5 years before I thought about opening a bottle.
2 stars
More wines, in the order tasted with Carlo Macchi and the Winesurf team in October 2010
Palladino
Palladino Barolo Parafada DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and some floral notes, not rosa canina but more youthful violets, while there is also underlying sea salt. Bracing. On the palate it's full and harmonious, with powerful cherry fruit supported by deft slightly greenish acidity and by tannins that are smooth, and quite young, with a slight dusty burr that lead into a long warm berry fruit finish. Pleasant in a vibrantly young muscular key, and will drink well in the short term with roasts or stews; it will also age nicely for a decade or more.
2 stars
Cascina Francia - Conterno Giacomo
Cascina Francia - Conterno Giacomo Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly penetrating, with petroleum and cedar supporting some berry fruit and moderate sour cherry acidity, with a fair amount of underlying alcohol. On the palate it's full and quite tart, with bracing sour cherry fruit supported by considerable savory sour cherry acidity, and by tannins that have a warm splintery cedar-laced burr and flow into a long warm finish. It's unsettled, and brings to mind a girl who has been goosed in a crowd, and is looking angrily about in search of the gooser. It needs at least a couple of years to get its bearings, and I wonder what the petroleum in the nose will do.
E. Pira e Figli
E. Pira e Figli Barolo Boschis DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some cherry fruit supported by moderate greenish accents and a fair amount of alcohol. It's brooding, and shadowy; I'd have liked greater brightness overtones the fruit. On the palate it's direct with warm intense cherry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity and tannins that are moderately intense and have a dusky cedar-laced burr, which continues into the finish. It's direct on the palate too, and though not settled doesn't really have much verve, while the tannins aren't as incisive as I might have liked.
1 star
Fontanafredda
Fontanafredda Barolo Paiagallo la Villa DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with delicate cherry fruit supported by brambles and some underbrush, while there is also some sea salt and hints of cedar. It's still developing. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slightly dusky feel to them, and flow into a clean slightly tannic cherry finish that's fairly long. It is pleasant, in a youthful key, though I would have liked more acidity, because it comes across as slightly flatter than it might. On the other hand, I appreciate acidity in a wine; if you like it less you may find this to be just right.
2 stars
F.lli Savigliano
F.lli Savigliano Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some red berry fruit with savory accents and some sandalwood spice as well. On the palate it's ample, and quite smooth, with greenish cedar-laced berry fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and by tannins that are cedar-laced and slightly splintery, flowing into a warm dry tannic finish with underlying bitterness. I'd have liked more depth and richness; the wine is overshadowed by oak, and the fruit doesn't manage to emerge.
1 star
Giovanni Manzone
Manzone Barolo Le Gramolere DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Lively black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish vegetal accents and brambly acidity supporting moderately intense sour cherry fruit, and there is also a fair amount of alcohol. I'd have liked a little more verve. On the palate it's fairly rich, with warm sour cherry fruit supported by fairly bright berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are fairly powerful, though not yet steely, and flow into a warm fairly dry finish. The palate is scrappier than the nose, which may be in a quite phase; I would give it a year or two to get its bearings, and drink it with a steak or roast, including fattier cuts such as lamb. In short, it may do interesting things in the future, though it's withdrawn on the nose now.
2 stars
Sansilvestro
Sansilvestro Barolo Patres DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with chalky sour berry fruit supported by some spice and a fair amount of alcohol, and some bitter gunflint as well. It's brooding, and dusky. On the palate it's more languid than I might have expected, with fairly ripe berry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by tannins that have a cedar-laced underlay and flow into a warm cherry laced finish that again has some underlying sweetness of a sort I don't generally associate with Barolo.
1 star
Scarpa
Scarpa Barolo Tettimorra DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Lively black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up jammy plum cherry fruit supported by sweetness and spice, and also by some hot mineral accents. Quite young, and still developing. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by fairly bright berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into clean sour cherry finish with a tobacoey tannic underpinning. Pleasant, though still quite young in a rather ripe key; it needs another year to come together, and will age well for a decade at least thereafter. If you like the style, which is quite ripe, but does have bright acidity, you will enjoy it.
2 stars
Corino
Corino Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to cherry with slight hints of orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, with jammy greenish berry fruit that has some chalky accents and a fair amount of underlying cedar. On the palate it's ample and quite soft, with fairly rich dusky cherry fruit supported by minerality and bitterness more than acidity, and by tannins that are quite smooth and flow into a clean cherry finish with cedary underpinning. I'd have liked more acidity, which would have made it brighter than it is; it will work well with grilled meats or roasts, but I'm not sure how long it will age given its relatively low acidity.
1 star
Beni di Batasiolo
Beni di Batasiolo Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Lively black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a rather rustic key with stable straw and balsamic acidity supported by some greenish spice and underlying cedar. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich sweetish cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and moderate acidity laced with some bitterness, and flows into a clean fairly sweet cherry plum finish with some greenish vegetal accents. It's quite young,, in an approachable key thanks also to the sweetness, which is more from ripe fruit than alcohol, and if you like the style, which is fairly soft, you will enjoy it.
2 stars
Costa di Bussia
Costa di Bussia Barolo Campo dei Buoi DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim paling to white. The bouquet is fairly rich, in a fresh greenish key, with vegetal notes supported by acidity and some cherry plum fruit. Put mostly greenish notes, which gain balsamic accents as it opens. On the palate it's ample, and fairly soft, with plum cherry fruit supported by greenish accents more than acidity, and by tannins that have a warm cedar-laced burr and flow into a cedary finish.
1 star
Ceretto
Ceretto Barolo Brunate DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Lively black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit and quite a bit of cedar mingled with warmth and some spice. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by warm berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have an intense cedar overlay and flow into a clean cedar-laced berry fruit finish with some savory notes. Pleasant though heavily oaked; it has sufficient fruit to stand up to the oak, and will drink nicely with roasts or stews in the short term (though I would give it a year), and also age nicely for a decade or more.
2 stars
Ceretto Barolo Prapò DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with spice and berry fruit supported by some cedar and brambly accents, and also by a fair amount of alcohol, and some gum Arabic. On the palate it's fairly rich, with powerful prune fruit that has some sour cherry overtones supported by warmth and greenish accents, and also by fairly bright acidity and by smooth tannins that have a slight cedar overlay and flow into a clean fresh prune berry fruit finish. It's quite young, in a fairly ripe key, and needs another year to come together; it will drink well with flavorful roasts and fattier meats. Screechy.
1 star
Borgogno Francesco
Borgogno Francesco Barolo Vigneti Brunate DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some savory notes and hints of hot iron, laced with some bitter balsam. It's a bit settled. On the palate it's fairly rich, with livelier than expected cherry fruit supported by fairly bright berry fruit acidity and by splintery tannins that flow into a hot rather splintery berry fruit finish. It needs time, bit for the nose to develop and for the tannins to smooth; I would give it at least a year and perhaps two, because at present it's a squalling infant.
Ceste
Ceste Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some spice and slight smoky accents. Not much fruit, though with continued swishing some greenish peachy accents emerge. Very young, and needs time. On the palate it's full, with dusky cherry fruit supported by considerable cedary bitterness and by tannins that are very smooth, with yet more bitterness. It's heavily oaked, and has yet to digest all that it was fed; when it does, it will be decidedly modern in style with oak playing a considerable role, and drink well with grilled meats or roasts.
1 star
Bersano
Bersano Barolo Nirvasco DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and quite fresh, surprisingly fresh for a Barolo, with lively cherry fruit supported by floral accents and greenish spice; with savory notes as well and some underlying cedar. On the palate it's full, with bright cherry plum fruit supported by fairly bright berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that aren't yet velvety but will be, and flow into a clean fairly rich plum laced berry fruit finish. Pleasant in a rather cheeky key, and though the fruit is quite ripe, tending towards plum-prune, there is acidity to support it and it's not the least bit tired. If you like the style, you will enjoy it.
2 stars
Cascina Bongiovanni
Bongiovanni Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black cherry ruby with dusky black reflections and cherry rim paling to almandine. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit supported by dusky cedar and some greenish accents, with a fair amount of alcohol as well; as it open the cedar grows in strength, overshadowing but not completely hiding the fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity, and by smooth tannins that have a slight cedary overlay and flow into a fairly long bright berry fruit finish. Pleasant, in a fairly modern key, and will drink well with grilled meats or hearty roasts or stews in the short term, and will also age nicely for a decade or more.
2 stars
Serradenari
Serradenari Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is deft, with pleasant cherry fruit supported by some spice and hints of rosa canina, and also by some underlying spice. Nice balance, and it's still developing. On the palate it's muscular, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate sour cherry acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean plum laced finish with some cedary tannic underpinning. Pleasant in a ripe vibrant key; the fruit is rich but not settled, while the tannins do a nice job of guiding it, though they do need another year to settle and come together. I would drink it with succulent roasts, e.g. leg of lamb or a rib roast, or even a fattier pork roast.
2 stars
Seghesio
Seghesio Barolo Vigneto La Villa DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some spice, gum Arabic, and some cedar, but not much fruit; it feels like it's in mid-stride. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and tannins that are fairly smooth, but do display a spicy burr and flow into a fairly sweet plum-berry fruit finish with spicy tannic underpinning with fairly intense cedar accents. It's quite young, and needs another year at least to get its bearings; it will drink well with hearty red meats or stews, and also will age nicely for a decade or more.
2 stars
Beni di Batasiolo
Beni di Batasiolo Barolo Vigneto Cerequio DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly aggressive, with warm balsamic acidity and sea salt, and also warm cedar. A bit rustic. On the palate it's fairly intense, with cherry plum fruit that has green leather accents and is supported by considerable warmth, and by tannins that are fairly smooth, and flow into a clean leather-laced cherry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. Pleasant in a fairly rustic key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. I would expect it to age well for a decade or more.
2 stars
Beni di Batasiolo Barolo Vigneto Boscareto DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, opening with wet paper that pulls back spice and balsamic notes with some dusky spice. It's not as clean as I'd have liked. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and fairly powerful bitter tannins that flow into a fairly long decidedly tannic finish that is decidedly dry.
1 star
Bava
Bava Barolo Scarrone DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish peach fruit supported by considerable spice and afairl amount of alcohol. Pleasant, in a rather international key, and very young. On the palate it's ample and fairly sweet, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and smooth tannins that flow into a clean fairly sweet berry fruit finish. Quite sweet, with an unusual amount of residual sugar, and as such a bit atypical for a Barolo; if you like the style you will enjoy it -- it's rather voluptuous in a starlet-in-a-glass key -- but you have to like the style, and as I said it's not typical of the wine.
1 star
Cagliero
Cagliero Barolo Ravera DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with lively cherry fruit supported by some vegetal accents and slight cedar, and by pleasant spice. It's still developing, but has embarked upon a nice trail. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by deft slightly greenish berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly bright, fairly long sour berry fruit finish that settles into warmth with time. Quite pleasant, in a bright middle of the road key, and will drink very well with hearty roasts or stews in the short term, and also age well for a decade or more, Worth seeking out.
88-90
Gianni Gagliardo
Gagliardo Barolo Riserva Preve DOCG 2004
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of smoky petroleum-laced cedar and a degree of pungency, but little in the way of fruit. On the palate it's full, with intense plum cherry fruit supported by mineral acidity and a certain sweetness that's likely alcohol related, and by tannins that have a distinct cedary overlay. It's very ripe, and quite oaky, and is a wine you should only consider if you like this combination.
1 star
Ceretto
Ceretto Barolo Bricco Rocche Bricco Rocche DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, and rather pungent, with powerful cedar supported by leaf tobacco and a fair amount of alcohol, while there isn't that much fruit -- some red berry fruit, but it is overshadowed by the wood. On the palate it's quite young, and full, with fairly intense cherry fruit supported by dusky bitterness and acidity, and by tannins that are muscular, with dusky bitter notes, and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. It's powerful in a middle of the road key, and needs another year to come together and develop poise; I would give it the time and then drink it with a steak or roast.
2 stars
Giribaldi
Giribaldi Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with ripe cherry fruit laced with greenish accents and some spice, and a fair amount of pungent alcohol as well; it's quite young and still coming together. On the palate it's bright, with lively ripe cherry fruit supported by deft slightly bitter cherry acidity and by tannins that are ample and smooth, and flow into a clean warm tannic finish with berry fruit underpinning that continues at length. Pleasant, in a middle of the road key, though it needs another year at least to get its bearings. I would expect it to age well for a decade or more.
2 stars
Curto
Curto Barolo La Foia DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is pungent, with considerable cedar and some spice mingling with savory accents and some plum fruit, though at present the battle is being won by oak. On the palate it's ample and quite ripe, with jammy prune fruit supported by prune acidity that's almost cheeky, and by tannins that are warm and rather green, laying a warm greenish burr over the tongue, and flowing into a very dry tannic finish. It's fairly international in style, and needs time, at least couple of years, at which point it will work nicely with grilled meats or roasts,
1 star
Livia Fontana
Livia Fontana Barolo Bussia DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some sour berry fruit and brambly accents, and also clean spice with some underlying hints of leaf tobacco and sea salt. On the palate it's full, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by brisk berry fruit acidity and by smooth rather sour tannins that flow into a clean tannic finish. It's a touch more languid than some, but quite traditional in style, revolving around tartness of fruit, acidity, and Nebbiolo based tannins, and if you like the style you will enjoy it considerably. It needs another couple of years to come together, and will age well for 10-15 years. A nice wine with which to finish a tasting session.
2 stars
Cascina Ballarin
Cascina Ballarin Tre Ciabot Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some spice and underlying cedar, which at present overshadows the fruit. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by brisk dusky cherry acidity and by tannins that have a warm dusky burr and flow into a clean fairly bitter berry fruit finish. The nose needs another year to develop, at which point it will be pleasant in a slightly brooding middle of the road key, and if you like wines with this bitter cast you will enjoy it.
2 stars
Corino Giovanni
Corino Giovanni Barolo Vigna Giachini Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with considerable hardwood ash and bitter cedar, supported by very ripe berry fruit, though it's the cedar that carries things, and some alcohol as well. On the palate it's full, with rich plum cherry fruit supported by moderatel mineral acidity and warmth, and by sweetish cocoa and cold coffee, which derive from wood, while the tannins are very smooth and flow into a clean plum finish with slight cedary underpinning. It's quite elegant in a heavily oaked modern key, and if you like this style you will enjoy it very much. If you're more traditionally minded it won't work as well for you.
2 stars
Oddero Poderi e Cantine
Oddero Poderi e Cantine Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with lively berry fruit supported by some balsamic accents, and warmth, with some dried flowers as well and slight leaf tobacco. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry fruit supported by warm berry fruit acidity and tannins that have a slightly greenish burr, and flow into a long slightly sour cherry finish with tannic underpinning and lasting warmth. It's pleasant in a young middle of the road key, though slightly brighter acidity would have been nice; it needs another year or two for the tannins to smooth and fold in, and will age well for many years.
2 stars
Michele Chiarlo
Michele Chiarlo Tortoniano Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents and bright spice supporting fresh cherry and forest berry fruit with slight sea salt as well. Nice balance, and gives an impression of zestiness. On the palate it's softer than I expected from the nose, with moderately intense ripe cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and tannins that are ample, and have a splintery burr, flowing into a warm tannic finish. I'd have liked more brightness to the acidity, which is a bit flat, and allows the wine to settle and costs it definition. With time the tannins will smooth, but the acidity will remain what it is.
1 star
Virna
Virna Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up savory notes and bright cherry fruit supported by some brambles and a fairl amount of alcohol, with underlying leaf tobacco Nice depth. On the palate it's ample and softer than I expected, with fairly rich cherry fruit that's almost candied supported by moderately intense cherry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that are not weak, but lack drive, as does the acidity; as a result the wine comes across as muscular but, well, not slouched, but not on its toes either.
1 star
Fontanafredda
Fontanafredda Serralunga Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim paling to almandine. The bouquet is fairly intense, with pungent green leather mingled with spice and some red berry fruit, and also supported by some balsamic accents and fairly intense greenish cedar. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich plum cherry fruit supported by moderate dusky acidity, while the tannins are cedar-laced, with a warm peppery cedar burr, and flow into a fairly long cedar-laced finish. It's ample, and fairly rich, though it needs a couple of years for the tannins to fold in and smooth. Because of its tannic pepperiness, in the short term it will drink well with succulent roasts or stews.
1 star
Montaribaldi
Montaribaldi Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some wet cardboard and greenish accents with hints of petroleum and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's brighter than I expected, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by dusky bitterness and by tannins that are quite smooth, and flow into a fairly long plum finish with slight tannic underpinning. It's ample, and fairly soft, in a ripe key, and because of its softness will drink well with drier roasts; I wouldn't serve it with leg of lamb. It does display a certain grace, and is harmonious, but you have to like the style. If you prefer tarter, more aggressive wines it won't work for you.
2 stars
Mauro Sebaste
Mauro Sebaste Prapò Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Depe black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is rich, with ripe greenish accents that bring a peach to mind, supported by cedar and some underbrush; it's still coming together in a very ripe concentrated key. On the palate it's ample and soft, with dusky plum fruit supported by tannins that have a strong cedary burr with some cold coffee overtones, and flow into a dry cedar-laced finish. It's ample and heavily oaked, and somewhat lacking in acidity; bitterness steps in to take its place but it's not quite the same thing.
1 star
Alessandria Fratelli
Alessandria Fratelli Gramolere Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, and chemical, with petroleum and cedar supporting greenish accents, and precious little in the way of fruit. On the palate it's full, with plum fruit supported more by dusky quinine bitterness than acidity, and by tannins that are ample and fairly smooth, though they do display a slight burr, and flow into a rather blocky tannic finish. It needs another year for the tannins to fold in, and if you like the style, which is quite ripe and heavily oaked, you will enjoy it. I found the oak a bit much.
1 star
Eredi Lodali
Eredi Lodali Bric Sant'Ambrogio Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with quite a bit of cedar laced with greenish accents and a fair amount of spice, and as it opens some, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full and fairly sweet, with plum fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by tannins that have an angry peppery burr and flow into a tannic finish with peppery overtones and hints of brown sugar that are also from oak. It's quite ripe, and the ripeness has knocked back the acidity, making it softer; while the tannins owe much of their character to oak. If you like the style you will enjoy it, but you have to like the style.
1 star
Veglio Mauro
Veglio Mauro Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and bright, with elegant greenish accents mingled with berry fruit and fairly bright berry fruit acidity; there are also some hints of gum Arabic and spice. On the palate it's fairly rich, with moderately bright sour cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and dusky greenish acidity that flow into a clean fairly bright berry fruit finish with some sweetish accents and tannic underpinning. It's a trifle lax -- the acidity isn't quite as bright as I might have liked -- but pleasant enough in a middle of the road key, and will drink well with roasts or stews, though it needs another year to come together.
2 stars
Ascheri Giacomo
Ascheri Giacomo Pisapola Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling overtones orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish berry fruit supported by spice and quite a bit of alcohol, and some leaf tobacco and dusky notes that bring dappled shade to mind. On the palate it's full, with ripe cherry fruit supported by mineral more than berry fruit warmth, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly bright berry fruit finish. Pleasant, though it's very young, and needs another year to get its bearings and come into its own; it will age well for at least a decade, and will work quite nicely with hearty roasts or stews.
2 stars
Beni di Batasiolo
Batasiolo Vigneto Corda della Briccolina Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is somewhat reduced, and requires swishing, at which point it reveals berry fruit supported by brambly greenish notes and some spice with metallic overtones. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by greenish berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a fairly bright tannic finish that is, however, dry -- the fruit fades quickly, leaving the tannins to carry on. I'd have liked more length, because the fruit is pleasant for as long as it lasts. Because of the dryness, it will work best with succulent roasts along the lines of leg of lamb, or with hearty stews.
1 star
Boroli
Boroli Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some cedar with underlying spice and greenish accents. Not much fruit. On the palate it's tannic, with a great deal of cedar and some warmth with underlying bitterness, but not much in the way of fruit -- it revolves around oak, and I doubt that this situation will ever change.
No star
Serafino
Serafino Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some cedar and slight alcohol; it's like a house with the shutters closed. On the palate it's rather bitter, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by decidedly bitter cedar-laced tannins that flow into a fairly bitter finish. It needs time, at least a year and perhaps two, to absorb the oak, but I'm not sure it has that time, because the fruit is moderate, and there isn't much acidity backing it up -- bitterness, rather, and it doesn't have the same effect.
1 star
Corino Giovanni
Corino Giovanni Vigneto Arborina Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with strong greenish accents, a mixture of alcohol and spice with cedar, and fairly intense bitterness. Not much fruit. On the palate it's richer than I expected from the nose, with fairly intense prune fruit supported by sweetness that is in part related to alcohol, and by bitter minerality, while the tannins are ample, smooth, and peppery. It's quite concentrated in a strongly oaky very ripe key, and if you like the style you will like it, but you have to like this sort of intense ripeness, and fruit that is considerably into plum-prune in terms of cast. I found it a bit overly charged; it in any case needs another year at least for the nose to come together and develop.
1 star
Beni di Batasiolo
Batasiolo Vigneto Bofani Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is not quite corked, but not clean either, with a rush of wet rag supported by spice and greenish accents, and some bitter notes as well. On the palate it's quite ripe, with fairly rich plum prune fruit supported by moderate warmth and by slight acidity, and tannins that are fairly smooth and flow into a clean fairly rich finish. It's fairly rich in a very ripe key; pity about the nose.
1 star
Manzone Giovanni
Manzone Giovanni Castelletto Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by some greenish accents and some spice, and by a fair amount of cedar. On the palate it's fairly rich, with fairly bright cherry fruit supported by greenish acidity and tannins that have a deft cedary burr and low into a clean rather bitter berry fruit finish. It's dusky, and charged, with a lot of oak, and much bitterness, and though it will absorb the oak with time there isn't that much acidity keeping it up; I fear it will settle with time.
1 star
Cantina di Clavesana
Cantina di Clavesana Olo Barolo Riserva DOCG 2005
Tasted October 2010
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is dusky, with wet leather and sea salt mingled with some spice, and a fair amount of alcohol; there are also hints of leaf tobacco. Were it younger I'd be tempted to say it's developing, but it really isn't at this point; This is where it's headed. On the palate it's full, with warm sour cherry fruit supported by leafy underbrush and savory spice, and also by warm acidity, while the tannins are fairly smooth, and warm, and flow into a long warm finish. It's hovering about the entrance to maturity, something that sounds quick but then again 2005 was a cool year, and if you like the style, it will work quite well with roasts or stews, though I think I would give it a few more years to develop.
2 stars
Corino Giovanni
Corino Giovanni Vecchie Vigne Barolo Riseva DOCG 2005
Tasted October 2010
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar-laced prune fruit supported by some cedar and slight spice; and some sweetish accents as well that may be due in part to alcohol. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with rich fairly sweet plum fruit supported by moderately intense plum acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean plum finish with some tannic support. It's pleasing, graceful even, in a very ripe key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it, as it displays considerable depth, especially on the palate. But you do have to like big soft smooth wines; we're far removed from Bartolo Mascarello here. In terms of accompaniments, because of its sweetness and oak, I would think drier roasts, or perhaps cheeses (not too sharp), or one could simply drink it far from the table.
2 stars
Stroppiana Oreste
Stroppiana Oreste Barolo Riserva DOCG 2005
Tasted October 2010
Lively black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some sour cherry fruit supported by warmth and some spice, and by moderately intense berry fruit that has dusky overtones. On the palate it's fairly fresh, with moderately rich cherry plum fruit supported by dusky accents and mineral acidity, and by tannins that are smooth and flow into a rather soft finish with plum fruit accents and greenish cedar underpinning. It's fairly graceful, in a lesser key; I'd have liked a little more acidity than I found.
1 star
Cascina del Monastero
Cascina del Monastero Barolo Riserva DOCG 2005
Tasted October 2010
Lively black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of alcohol and balsamic warmth mingled with berry fruit and some spice. On the palate it's pleasant, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by deft plum acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long warm plum finish. The nose is still a bit direct, and I would give it another year or two, because the palate is much more interesting, and in my experience noses do catch up. In terms of accompaniments, it will be nice wit hearty, not too fatty roasts or stews. Roast beef cooked medium rare comes to mind.
2 stars
Elvio Cogno
Elvio Cogno Bricco Pernice Barolo Riserva DOCG 2005
Tasted October 2010
Lively black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar and some spice supporting a fair amount of alcohol, and moderate fruit. Nice balance. On the palate it's full, and quite ripe, with fairly intense plum fruit supported by mineral more than fruit acidity, and by tannins that are warm and flow into a clean rather bitter plum berry fruit finish. It's fairly direct, more direct than I would expect a Riserva to be, but it is a 2005, which was a cool wet vintage, and it displays considerable grace and finesse. A fine interpretation of a difficult vintage.
2 stars
Cascina del Monastero
Cascina del Monastero Bricco Riund Barolo Riserva DOCG 2005
Tasted October 2010
Livley black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with intense cedar and some berry fruit that come together with sweetish accents, in part from alcohol perhaps, and the combination brings cola to mind. More swishing reveals more cedar. On the palate it's ample and quite soft, with plum cherry fruit supported by moderate minerality, and by tannins that are smooth and slightly mineral, and flow into a clean plum finish that's fairly quick. The wine is quite ripe and owes much of its character to oak; if you like this style you will enjoy it, but if you prefer wines with more bracing acidities and verve it won't work for you.
1 star
Mirafiore
Mirafiore Barolo Riserva DOCG 2004
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit mingled with green leather and hints of leaf tobacco, and savory spice as well. Nice balance. On the palate it's ample, and soft, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by some sour berry fruit acidity, and by ample smooth tannins that flow into a clean cherry laced finish. It's not overripe, but has a soft settled feel about it; the acidity is present but doesn't really shine while the tannins aren't oaky but aren't steely either, and that is something I would begin to look for in a wine from 2004. In short, it's a little too direct for my tastes.
1 star
Conterno Giacomo
Conterno Giacomo Monfortino Barolo Riserva 2002
Tasted October 2010
To begin, presenting a 2002 Barolo Riserva is an act of courage, because it was one of the most difficult vintages in recent (or even long-term) memory. To present it after 8 years is even more courageous. Having said this, the wine is lively almandine with black reflections, and though there is some almandine in the rim one wouldn't guess its age. The bouquet is deft, with berry fruit supported by dusky acidity and some leaf tobacco; it's beginning to enter into maturity, but is still quite vital., and displays considerable depth. On the palate it's full and rich, with elegant red berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that have a warm savory burr and flow into a clean bright sour cherry finish that's quite long. Quite elegant, and the courage is completely warranted; the wine displays great depth and elegance, in a frankly traditional key, revolving around bright red berry fruit acidity and fruit, and tannins that don't display much if any oak; even if you prefer smoother softer riper wines this is something to think about, because it can open doors onto new vistas of understanding. Especially considering the vintage. Beautiful.
92-4
Alessandria Fratelli
Alessandria Fratelli Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Livley black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, and rather smoky, with moderate berry fruit and some spice, though not too much. It's waiting, and needs time. On the palate it's ample, and rather soft, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by dusky tannins that a bitter underlay, and slight mineral acidity that flow into a rather bitter finish. It's flat, and I'd have liked more acidity to hold it up.
1 star
Veglio Mauro
Veglio Mauro Vigneto Gattera Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Lively black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with smoky accents and moderate fruit supported by some greenish spice; there's not much fruit, but some does emerge, and alcohol adds warmth. On the palate it's full, with rather dusky understated berry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity and tannins that have a brooding cedary burr and flow into a rather sour berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. It's lacking in verve and agility. Not sure how else to say it.
1 star
Fontanafredda
Fontanafredda Barolo La Rosa DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and rather balsamic, with sour brambly accents and some graphite shavings supported by quite a bit of alcohol and spice, but not much in the way of fruit; with time underbrush also emerges powerfully. On the palate it's full and quite ripe, with cherry plum fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are smooth, with greenish cedary accents, and flow into a fairly long dusky finish with tannic notes and alcohol supporting some berry plum fruit. The nose is still developing, and I would give it a year or two; it's muscular in a dusky middle of the road key, and though I wouldn't drink it by the glass it will go nicely with hearty grilled meats or roasts, and will also age well for a decade at least. If you like this powerful, rather brooding style you will enjoy it.
2 stars
Fratelli Alessandria
Fratelli Alessandria San Lorenzo Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Lively black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit supported by leaf tobacco and spice, and by some underlying cedar. On the palate it's moderately intense, with sour berry fruit supported by warm greenish accents and a fair amount of alcohol, which flow into a fairly angry tannic finish. I'd have liked more brightness to the fruit, which is decidedly dusky, and more acidity; what carries it is bitterness and that's not as interesting.
1 star
Manzone Giovanni
Manzone Giovanni Bricat Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with a great load of cedar that emerges in a rush, obscuring all else, though those who are determined to find something will find slight berry fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich plum fruit supported by smoky accents and some mineral acidity, while the tannins, which aren't as cedary as I would have expected from the nose, are ample and smooth and flow into a clean fairly rich finish.
It needs time, another year at least, at which point, if the nose follows the palate it will be fairly rich in an international ripe key, and drink well with drier roasts and hearty, but not too fatty stews.
2 stars
Eraldo Viberti
Eraldo Viberti Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Depe black almandine with back reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some ripe berry fruit laced with some cedar. The shutters aren't completely closed, but almost. On the palate it's fairly rich, with cherry plum fruit supported by dusky greenish accents and slightly greenish acidity that are supported by dry tannins that flow into a fairly dry greenish finish. I'd have liked greater richness overtones the fruit, which is allowing the other components to lead the way.
1 star
Mauro Veglio
Mauro Veglio Castelletto Barolo DOCG 2006
Tasted October 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some alcohol and slight spice. Not much fruit, though there are hints of cherries. On the palate it's fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by dusky berry fruit acidity and by ample splintery tannins that flow into a clean decidedly bitter finish that's fairly long. I'd have liked more richness to the fruit, and tannins that were less angry.
1 star
1 comment:
Kyle:
Excellent report and quite fascinating to note the differences between the wines tasted a few months apart - it's rare to get this sort of information.
Good for you to note that one might or might not like a particular wine because of its style. There are not many writers that do that. Too many act as though they are God's gift to wine, so complimenti!
Nice to see some very encouraging words about some underrated producers such as Barale Fratelli and Bruna Grimaldi. As for Giovanni Rosso, I only saw your review of his Serralunga wine. I'm guessing you did not taste his Cerretta bottling? It was one of my favorite from the vintage (it did receive a Tre Bicchieri rating) and is much more open and approachable with good acidity than the typical Serralunga Barolo.
Also, I only saw one review of Elio Grasso Barolo and that was Gramolere. I don't know that wine, but I did taste his top two bottlings - Gavarini Chinera and Ginestra Casa Maté, both of which I rated as outstanding and both of which are more open that you might expect from Monforte.
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