Monday, January 24, 2011

Bolgheri: the 2010 Vintage Presentation

Bolgheri is where it all began on the Tuscan Coast, and even though Sassicaia was already attracting international acclaim by the time the first Bolgheri DOC was established in 1983, the authorities chose to regulate the production of whites and rosés, leaving vintners to follow their whims when it came to reds, which were all classified as table wine. Though this was obviously a slight to the red wines, it wasn't as negative as it may seem, because it gave the vintners tremendous freedom to experiment. Some chose to use exclusively French varietals, and others various mixtures of Italian and French. The DOCG established in 1994 recognizes the reds, while maintaining the freedom:

  • Bolgheri Bianco can be made from: 20-70% Trebbiano Toscano 20-70% Vermentino 20-70% Sauvignon Blanc Up to 30% other varietlas authorized by the province of Livorno (e.g. Malvasia Bianca)
  • Bolgheri Vermentino must contain at least 85% Vermentino
  • Bolgheri Sauvignon must contain at least 85% Sauvignon
  • Bolgheri Rosato is made from Sangiovese, Cabernet and Merlot, plus other red varietals authorized by the Province of Livorno
  • Bolgheri Rosso and Bolgheri Rosso Superiore can be made from: 10-80% Cabernet Sauvignon Up to 70% Merlot Up to 70% Sangiovese Up to 30 % other grapes authorized by the Province of Livorno (e.g. Syrah)
  • Bolgheri Sassicaia must be made in the Sassicaia subzone (Marchese Niccolò Incisa della Rocchetta's vineyards) and contain at least 80% Cabernet Sauvignon.


Yields?
100 quintals/hectare for whites, 90 for Rossi, 80 for Rossi Superiori and 60 for Sassicaia. With the possible exception of Sassicaia these are high, at least with vineyards planted to moderate densities. However, a number of producers are planting to very high densities; if one has 9,000 vines per hectare each yielding a kilo of grapes, the quality should be quite good despite a high yield per hectare because the individual vines are producing small amounts.

Cellaring?
As you might expect, most of the whites are released the spring following the harvest, as are the rosés. Bolgheri Rosso can also be released the year following the harvest. Bolgheri Rosso Superiore must instead mature for at least two years from the January following the harvest, a minimum of 12 months in wood and 6 months in bottle. Sassicaia also has to be aged two years, 18 months of which in barriques.

Having said all this, the wines tasted at the Bolgheri DOCG presentation on May 28 2010. The order, after a couple of wineries that did not present reds, is that in which the Bolgheri Superiore was presented, because it was the wine I started with:

Serni Fulvio Luigi

Serni Fulvio Luigi Le Lame Bolgheri Bianco DOC 2009
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections, The bouquet is fairly intense, with deft greenish accents mingled with bitter almonds and some spice. Nice balance. On the palate it's bright, with rather languid bitter white fruit supported by minerality and mineral acidity, which flow into a clean rather mineral finish. It will be a pleasant aperitif and will also drink nicely with grilled fish or with white meats.
2 stars

Serni Fulvio Luigi Arcanto Bolgheri Rosato DOC 2009
Pale salmon with electric pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with dusky rather bitter berry fruit supported by greenish accents and some brambly notes that mingle with sour berry fruit. Pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's lively, with bright sour brambly berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by brambly greenish tannins that flow into a fairly greenish finish. Quite direct, and zesty, an ideal wine for a cookout or picnic.
1 star

Poggio al Tesoro

Poggio al Tesoro Cassiopea Rosato IGT 2009

Pale pink with white rim. Quite pale, The bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish accents and some sour berry fruit laced with sour berry fruit acidity. On the palate it's bright, with rather languid sour berry fruit supported by greenish acidity that flows into a clean sour berry fruit finish. Fairly direct, and will drink nicely as an aperitif or at a cookout or picnic.
2 stars

Terre del Marchesato

Terre del Marchesato Nobilis Muffato IGT 2007

This is a muffato, or wine struck by noble rot, and is brassy gold with brilliant golden reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with the classic sweet bitter honey laced with herbals accents that is a hallmark of noble rot, and is supported by some sour apricot acidity as well, which helps keep it on its toes, while there is an underlying current of sweetness too. On the palate it's rich, and sweet, with powerful slightly candied apricot fruit supported by clean apricot acidity that flows into a long candied apricot finish. Quite pleasant, and if you like the style you will enjoy it very much; it's not a sauternes, and is brighter and perhaps more muscular than some sauternes, but very pleasant. Worth seeking out. If you like the style.
88

Giorgio Meletti Cavallari

Giorgio Meletti Cavallari Bolgheri Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Deep black cherry with cherry rim; poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit supported by wet leather and some savory accents; the impression is pleasantly languid. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by clean greenish accents and mineral acidity, while the tannins are smooth and slightly vegetal, and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. Pleasant, though it needs another year to come together, and a little more acidity would have been nice; it will drink nicely with grilled meats or stews,
2 stars

Giorgio Meletti Cavallari Impronte Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, and vinous, with clean slightly jammy cherry fruit supported by brisk sour cherry acidity and some graphite shavings, with deft vegetal accents that gain in intensity as it opens, and some alcohol as well. Pleasant and harmonious, and very young. On the palate it's medium bodied, and a bit drier than I expected from the nose, with moderately rich berry fruit that quickly gives way to dry warm balsamic tannins that have a fair amount of cedar in them and flow into a warm balsamic cedar laced finish with bitter graphite undertones. It's still coming together, but has potential. I would give it a couple of years to get its bearings and come together, and expect it to age well for a decade.
2 stars

Donna Olimpia

Donna Olimpia Agoghè IGT 2009
Pale salmon with onionskin rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish vegetal accents mingled with sea salt and savory spice. Fresh in a rather lively mineral key. On the palate it's savory, with considerable bitter minerality supported by savory notes and some spice. It's pleasant, but in a savory key and you have to like the style to like the wine. If you do it will drink nicely with antipasti, or frilled fish and similar, and also be a nice cookout wine.
2 stars

Donna Olimpia Millepassi Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim with hints of orange. The bouquet is quite fresh, with floral accents and violets mingled with jammy blackberry and forest berry fruit with slight hints of graphite shavings; it's quite fruit forward, and rather voluptuous but also fairly direct. On the palate it's ample and soft, with rich cherry and forest berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have some cedar accents, and slight graphite shaving bitterness, and flow into a smooth cedar laced finish. It's pleasant in an ample, soft fruit forward key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it, though I would give it a year for the tannins to smooth in. It you prefer more aggressive, acidic wines you will like it less.
2 stars

Batzella

Batzella Pinksy Bolgheri Rosato DOC 2009
Pale brassy salmon with salmon reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fresh, with rich ripe yellow peach mingled with some strawberries and a fair amount of alcohol, supported by some sweetish accents and slight acidity. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich rather languid berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by light tannins; I'd have liked more acidity to hold it together and tie it up, because it's a bit lax, especially in the finish.
1 star

Batzella Digià Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2009
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is quite fresh, with cherry prune fruit supported by deft greenish accents and some floral notes, also graphite shaving bitterness. Fresh, and ripe. On the palate it's bright, with lively fresh plum fruit supported by some greenish accents and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh plum cherry finish. Up front and direct, it will drink nicely with quickly grilled meats, and be perfect at a cookout too. Expect it to go quickly.
1 star

Batzella Pean Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with ith greenish accents mingled with berry fruit and some dusky spice. On the palate it's ample, and soft, with fairly dry savory minerality more than berry fruit supported by savory accents and sweet savory tannins that flow into a sea salt finish. One can taste sea breezes, and while they are nice I would have liked more fresh fruit as well.
1 star

Batzella Tàm Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim; poured ink. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up leafy underbrush mingled with some iodine and berry fruit and cassis; it's pleasant but still coming together, and quite international in feel. On the palate it's fairly rich, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by more acidity than I expected -- though it's far from the aggressiveness of coastal Sangiovese -- and by silky smooth sweet tannins that have warm cedary accents and some underlying bitterness, and flow into a fairly bitter savory finish. Pleasant and harmonious, though I would give it another year for the cedar to fold in; you will enjoy it if you like ample smooth wines that are not overripe, and it will age nicely for a number of years, becoming rather ethereal with time.
2 stars

La Cipriana

Cipriana Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with dusky bitterness laced with smoke and some penetrating accents, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, and soft, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by moderate acidity that flow into a clean rather soft prune cherry finish with some underlying acidity. I'd have liked greater tightness and depth; it comes across as fairly lax.
1 star

Cipriana San Martino Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and rather up front, with cherry fruit supported by some cedar and underbrush, with some vegetal accents as well. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by rather savory tannins that have some pencil shaving bitterness to them, and flow into a clean warm tannic finish with underlying bitterness. I'd have liked a little more richness to the fruit, though the tannins are smooth and the overall impression is harmonious.
1 star

Tenute Guicciardini-Strozzi

Tenute Guicciardini Strozzi Ocra Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with haunting greenish accents mingled with toasted coffee and spice, with underlying vegetal notes, but not much fruit. Quite young, however. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich rather chalky berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and some savory notes, while the tannins are smooth and greenish, flowing into a bitter vegetal finish. It's fairly direct, and still quite young; I would give it at least a year to get its bearings and some together.
1 star

Tenute Guicciardini-Strozzi Vignarè Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful and quite fresh, with jammy violets mingled with red berry fruit and some spice. Not quite a flower shop, but freshness (surprisingly so for a Superiore) in a glass. On the palate it's ample, smooth, and quite fruit driven, with jammy plum prune fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that aren't as broad as I might have expected, and by moderate mineral more than fruit driven acidity, which flow into a clean tannic finish. It centers around smoothness and fruit, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. I found it to be one-directional however, and as the tannins fold in this will I think become more apparent. In other words, a smooth fruit driven wine that is quite up front; what you see is what you get. Pleasant, seductive even, but it didn't make me think. At least now; it is also very young and needs to recover from being bottled; a fellow taster says it feels like it was bottled yesterday and he's right..
2 stars

I Greppi

I Greppi Greppicante Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with vegetal accents mingled with balsam and cedar, and some red berry fruit that provides support, and also smoky notes and a fair amount of alcohol. Nice depth, though very young. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by some mineral acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flo9w into a clean sour mineral finish with underlying sour berry fruit that has some savory greenish accents. Pleasant, and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

I Greppi Greppicaia Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up berry fruit laced with graphite shavings and bitter accents. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich sour plum cherry fruit supported by vegetal accents and graphite shaving bitterness, while the tannins are smooth and have some cassis to them; the finish is fairly long with clean cassis undertones and lasting bitterness. Pleasant in a smooth polished key, and with respect to some of the others has a little more acidity, which gives it more life, and makes it, for me, more interesting. It needs a couple of years at least to get its bearings and come together, and will age nicely for a decade or more.
2 stars

I Luoghi

I Luoghi Campo al Fico Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2007
Impenetrable black garnet with black reflections. The bouquet is intense, with greenish vegetal accents mingled with sour berry fruit acidity and sour cherry fruit, with some leafy underbrush as well, and slight balsamic acidity. It's brighter than many. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by moderate mineral more than fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean cherry plum finish with some savory tannic bitterness. Quite nice, though it needs another year to come completely together; it's like looking at a puzzle whose pieces are correctly placed but separated. It has considerable potential and I would give it the time, because it will be impressive in a lithe and graceful key.
2 stars

Michele Satta

Michele Satta Bolgheri Bianco DOC 2009
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is decidedly mineral, with considerable bitter gunflint and some spice as well. On the palate it's ample, and again mineral, with bright minerality supported by mineral acidity and by sour white berry fruit that has gunflint overtones, and flow into a decidedly mineral finish, It will drink nicely as an aperitif with fish (including oysters) and also with meatless dishes such as a frittata made with spinach. It's a little too crisp for sweeter dishes such as a frittata with onions, however. But it will go quickly. Nice savory minerality.
2 stars

Michele Satta Costa di Giulia IGT 2009
Brassy gold with brassy yellow reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with honeydew melon and sweet white fruit supported by some bitterness, though not really gunflint. Interesting and has a story to tell, though the nose suggests more an aperitif than a wine to be drunk with foods. On the palate it's ample, and rather languid, with clean mineral laced honeydew melon supported by mineral acidity and some savory accents, which flow into a fairly long languid honeydew melon finish with some savory honey overtones. Pleasant, though you have to like the style; if you prefer brighter, tighter whites it won't work as well for you. If you instead prefer the enological equivalent of a 1920s flapper reclining on a divan, you will like it very much.
2 stars

Michele Satta Giovin Re IGT 2009
Brassy yellow with greenish brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is powerful, with considerable spice, in particular freshly cracked black peppercorns mingled with some greenish sandalwood spice that's unusual in a white, but pleasant, and also some white berry fruit that contributes white berry fruit acidity. On the palate it's fairly rich, with savory minerality that I didn't expect from the nose supporting peppery spice that I did, and clean savory white fruit. Pleasant, though particular; if you like spicy whites you will enjoy it, but you have to like the style.
2 stars

Michele Satta Bolgheri Rosato DOC 2009
Pale salmon pink with onionskin in the rim. The bouquet is fairly right, with greenish accents and berry fruit supported by brambly notes and vegetal acidity. On the palate it's light, with bright rather green berry fruit supported by brambly acidity that has a greenish vegetal cast, and by sour cherry accents, while the tannins are light and savory, and flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish that flows into lasting bitterness. A zesty wine that will work well as a cookout wine or with quickly cooked summer dishes, ranging from pasta through simple grilled meats or fish.
1 star

Michele Satta Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Deep cherry ruby with brick reflections and brick rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish vegetal accents mingled with sour berry fruit and some greenish peach accents, which can happen in youth, and with pleasant spice. Interesting. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by fairly rich berry fruit acidity that flow into a clean fresh finish. Fresh, and will drink well in the short term with grilled meats or light stews, while it also has the capacity to age nicely for 8-10 years.
2 stars

Michele Satta Piastraia Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. the bouquet is fresh, with deft floral accents and red berry fruit supported by clean greenish notes and spice with underbrush as well, and a fair amount of alcohol too. Nice balance. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with clean dusky rather bitter cherry fruit supported by sour balsamic acidity that flows into a decidedly bitter finish. It's more of a food wine than a wine to sip by the glass; if you like the style it will work very well with a hearty stew or with a porterhouse steak cooked rare and cut thick. But you do have to like the style; if you prefer smoother softer wines it won't work as well for you.
2 stars

Michele Satta Syrah IGT 2008
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim; it's close to poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense, with jammy berry fruit supported by some spice; it's quite young and fairly direct. On the palate it's ample and smooth with languid cherry plum fruit supported by dusky bitter tannins and tannic bitterness dusty overlay, more than by acidity, and it all flows into a clean rather bitter finish. Elegant in an oak driven more than acidic key, and if you like the style, which is quite smooth, you will enjoy it. If you prefer more marked acidity you will kike it less.
2 stars

Michele Satta I Castagni Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with rim that mingles violet and garnet. The nose is extremely aromatic, with a mixture of floral accents, nutmeg and clove spice, and jammy berry fruit that almost brings a Ruché (an extraordinarily aromatic lesser Piemontese varietal) to mind. Quite unusual, and particular -- you will either like it or not. But it is voluptuous and rich, bringing to mind Jane Mansfield in a glass. On the palate it's ample, soft, and rather sweet, with jammy cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that are again spicy, with a mixture of nutmeg and sandalwood, and flow into a clean spicy finish. A sexpot wine, and something of a fruit bomb as well, it's extreme in style and if you like the style you will like it very much.
2 stars

Collemassari Grattamacco

Collemassari Grattamacco Bianco Bolgheri Vermentino 2009
pale brassy white with brassy greenish reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish accents mingled with minerality and spice, and pleasant brambly accents, On the palate it's more mineral and less bright than I had expected, with fairly rich mineral acidity and greenish accents, but less in the way of fruit, and flows into a clean rather bitter finish. It's fairly direct, and I'd have liked a little more depth than I found.
1 star

Collemassari Grattamacco Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Deep black almandine with black reflections and rim paling to cherry-orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, with sour rather balsamic berry fruit supported by intense greenish vegetal accents and underlying spice. Young, but pleasant, and clearly developing. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich sour cherry plum fruit supported by deft acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a clean bright sour berry fruit finish. Young, but pleasant, and will already drink well with grilled meats or stews, and will also age nicely for a decade or more.
2 stars

Collemassari Grattamacco Grattamacco Rosso Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2007
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fialruy intense, and a bit rustic, with savory balsamic accents mingled with wet leather and some spice; as it opens vegetal accents emerge, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and smooth with moderately intense greenish fruit supported by mineral acidity and tannins that have a clean rather bitter mineral component, and flow into a rather mineral finish. It's very young, and needs at least a year to come together; at present it comes across as one directional but this is youth, and I think it will become quite interesting as it ages. It made me think, reflect, and reevaluate, something I like in a young wine.
2 stars

Collemassari Grattamacco L'Alberello Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2007
Elegant ruby with brilliant reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with powerful cherry and cassis fruit supported by some vegetal accents and some wet leather, with sour berry fruit acidity as well. Harmonious. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with rich cherry and forest berry fruit supported by some sour berry fruit acidity and by slight greenish vegetal accents, while the tannins are silky and smooth, and flow into a clean rather bitter berry fruit finish. Deft, and though it needs a year to come together it is quite pleasant, and will also become graceful with time. I found it growing upon me.
2 stars

Campo al Mare

Campo al Mare Campo al Mare Rosso Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim; it's close to being poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish yellow peach supported by hints of Sichuan preserved vegetable and some savory accents, On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich greenish berry fruit supported by savory notes and smooth sweet tannins that have a slight mineral underpinning and flow into a clean slightly greenish berry fruit finish with underlying graphite shaving bitterness and some savory accents. Pleasant, in a deft fairly scrappy key, and will drink nicely with grilled meats or light stews, or simple roasts. I would expect it to go quickly in the proper setting.
2 stars

Campo al Mare Baia al Vento Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with black cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is intense, and quite young, with wet plaster and some animal accents mingled with savory notes and some berry fruit. Nice balance, though still very young, and as it opens the plaster fades some, giving way to leather, while berry fruit increases, as do vegetal accents. On the palate it's ample, with moderately rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and, to a greater degree, bitter tannins that flow into a decidedly bitter graphite shaving finish. It needs another year at least to get its bearings, and will profit from further bottle age; I found it to be fairly direct, and would have liked greater ripeness to the fruit, which lets the tannins carry some of the show.
1 star

Argentiera

Argentiera Poggio ai Ginepri Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Deep black almandine with black reflections and dusky rim tending towards almandine. The bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish unripe peach accents mingled with vegetal notes and hints of balsam, but not much fruit, though there are some balsamic accents. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate fruit supported by some balsamic acidity and a fair amount of cedar, which flow into a clean bitter finish. I'd have liked more fruit, which would have added grace.
1 star

Argentiera Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2007
impenetrable pyrope with black cherry rim -- poured ink. The bouquet is muted, with wet leather and savory accents mingled with some acidity, hints of menthol, and slight plum fruit. It gives an impression of being in mid stride, but I would have liked a little more richness to the fruit. On the palate it's richer, with ample plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have some graphite shaving bitterness to them, and by slight acidity that flow into a fairly long bitter plum prune finish. It's quite ripe, in an ample smooth soft fruit driven key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it, though I would give it a year to allow the nose to catch up with the palate. If you like tighter, more aggressive wines it won't work as well for you. I found it to be rather direct.
1 star

Aia Vecchia

Aia Vecchia Sorugo Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2007
Impenetrable black cherry ruby with cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense, and jammy, with some gum Arabic as well, and underlying balsamic bitterness and some wet leather, with greenish cedar as well. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with deft sour plum fruit supported by mineral acidity and some bitter accents, while the tannins are smooth and sweet, and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. It's quite young -- a toddler -- and still up in the air, but has nice potential and could be a wine to look out for. I would give it a couple of years at least, and expect it to do interesting things, because the fruit is there and it is harmonious.
2 stars

Giovanni Chiappini

Giovanni Chiappini Felciano Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections; it's almost poured ink. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some mentholated accents mingled with savory notes and some vegetal accents too; there's not much fruit, but this is also an effect of youth, because the wine is still developing. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. The palate is further along than the nose at present, and pleasant in a fairly direct key; it will drink nicely with simple grilled meats or light stews, and will also age nicely for 5 years at least. It grew upon me.
2 stars

Giovanni Chiappini Guado de'Gemoli Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, with slightly chalky cherry plum fruit; it's quite young and at present this is most of what's there, though more swishing brings up some vegetal accents and slight artichoke greenness. Opens nicely. On the palate it's ample and very smooth, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a well polished cedary burr, and by warmth more than acidity, which flow into a dusty cedar-laced finish with lasting warmth. Pleasant, in a rich fruit driven key, though it needs another couple of years to get its bearings and come together; it will also age nicely for a decade at least. Nice depth, and good potential; I found it growing upon me.
2 stars

Campo alla Sughera

Campo alla Sughera di Knauf Adeo Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections; it's darker than many. The bouquet is intense, and fresh, with sour plum cherry fruit supported by savory vegetal accents and spice; it's pleasant to sniff in a fruit charged key and also quite young. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by deft sour plum acidity that has some cedar laced mentholic overtones, and is supported by smooth mentholated cedar-laced tannins that flow into a clean fairly rich plum finish with some cedary accents. Pleasant in a rather international style, though very young, and needs another year at least for the various components to come together. When they do it will drink nicely with grilled meats or roasts, and will also age nicely for 5-8 years at least.
2 stars

Campo alla Sughera di Knauf Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright and fresh, with cherry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and some spice with underlying jammy sweetness as well. Fairly direct, but also very young. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by deft mineral acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean vegetal-prune finish with some cocoa accents from the wood, which is quite long. Very pleasant, in a decidedly youthful international key; I would give it 2-3 years to come together, and expect it to age well for 8-10.
2 stars

Tenuta San Guido

San Guido Guidalberto IGT 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by mineral bitterness and some vegetal notes, also bitter pencil shavings and minerality. Nice balance and depth in a fairly rich youthful key. On the palate it's bright, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight greenish overlay and flow into a fairly long savory finish with deft bitter fruit underpinning. Pleasant, and will drink quite well with grilled meats or light stews, and also has the capacity to age well for 8-10 years.
2 stars

San Guido Sassicaia Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit more rustic than some, with barnyard tang mingled with some balsamic accents on first swish, followed by some greenish vegetal accents and some spice notes that bring green banana peel to mind. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with moderately intense sour plum fruit supported by warmth and smooth sweet tannins, which flow into a fairly long warm sour prune finish. It's fairly large, and fairly soft, but does have pleasing acidity, and I would give it 2-3 years to come together and develop. I would expect it to improve with time, because this wine is always weak on the outset, but I must comment on what is in the glass, not what will be; a fellow taster had a similar impression, though he scored it slightly higher -- 82 as opposed to my 79, and I do have to note that after a while in the glass -- I set it aside -- it had improved, something not all do, and this is a good sign. But it is really not ready yet, and I think too young to score.


Guado al Tasso

Guado al Tasso Bolgheri Vermentino DOC 2009
Pale brassy white with some greenish highlights and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with delicate greenish accents mingled with heather and some sweaty blonde that brings sauvignon to mind, though Vermentino can also display this aroma. Nice balance and fairly zesty. On the palate it's bright, with warm citric fruit laced with bitter greenish accents that flow into a clean sour mineral finish with underlying greenish bitterness, which carries at length. Pleasant, in a fairly rich fruit driven key, and will drink well as an aperitif or with grilled fish or meats.
2 stars

Guado al Tasso Scalabrone Bolgheri Rosato DOC 2009
pale pink with white reflections The bouquet is fairly rich, with sour berry fruit laced with strawberry acidity and supported by some herbal accents, and by some pungent underbrush that adds depth. Pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's deft, with fairly rich raspberry cherry fruit supported by lively raspberry acidity and some greenish accents that bring to mind the leaves of a strawberry, while there is pleasant underlying tart strawberry acidity, and it flows into a clean sour strawberry finish. It will be quite nice as an aperitif or with simple cheese or egg based antipasti, and will also be nice as a cookout wine, in which occasion you will want more than one bottle.
2 stars

Guado al Tasso Il Bruciato Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections; it's poured ink. The bouquet is muted, of the shiut tight variety, and swishing doesn't bring up much at all. On the palate it's muted; swishing brings up some scalded milk and slight green leather, but not much lese, On the palate it's moderately intense, with slight berry fruit supported by some savory accents and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long bright finish with slightly brambly accents that are, to be frank, unexpected given the segue. I would have like more fruit and more richness than I found.
75

Guado al Tasso Guado al Tasso Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2007
Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and quite mineral, with considerable graphite shavings mingled with vegetal notes and some savory accents, though there isn't much fruit. On the palate it's deft, with moderately rich plum fruit supported by considerable bitter graphite shaving minerality laced with artichoke greenish notes, and by smooth sweet savory tannins that flow into a clean fairly bitter finish. Pleasant, in a very varietal key -- the Cabernet stands up and waves -- and I found myself rather enjoying it, because though it's not particularly fruity it does have pleasing deft mineral complexity to it.
2 stars

Tenuta Dell'Ornellaia

Ornellaia Le Serre Nuove Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections., the bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of cedar mingled with some berry fruit and greenish spicy accents. Nice balance in an oaky key. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by considerable cedar and a fair amount of savory spice, which flow into a fairly long bitter finish. It's very young in a decidedly oaky key, and needs time, a year or two at least; to absorb the oak it has been fed, though it may never do so completely. If you like the style you will enjoy it, but you have to like decidedly oaked wines; it will work well with succulent red meats.
2 stars

Ornellaia Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some greenish accents and slight sea salt mingled with plum prune fruit. All of these wines are works in progress, but this more than many. On the palate it's ample and soft with moderate bitterness mingled with berry fruit, and supported by smooth cedar-laced tannins that flow into a fairly bitter cedar-laced finish. It's very young and needs to come together; this said I found the fruit duskier than I might have liked -- it's a brooding wine, which revolves around shadow and spice, with less in the way of acidity than I would have liked; I found myself wishing for more brightness and life to the fruit. To be quite frank it was a bit of a disappointment and I hope that it will perk up with time, though the smoothness and the hold the tannins have upon the acidity make me wonder if it will.
2 stars

Sapaio

Sapaio Volpolo Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Deep pyrope with black reflections and black cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, and cedar laced, with greenish vegetal accents but not much in the way of fruit, at least at present, On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly intense cedar laced warmth and some sour berry fruit. I'd have liked more fruit and less cedar.
1 star

Sapaio Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2007
Impenetrable black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents and some coffee grounds mingled with berry fruit and hints of wet leather; it's quite young, and still developing. On the palate it's ample, with rich rather graceful cherry plum fruit supported by clean mineral acidity and by silky tannins that gain direction from a slight bitter component, and flow into a clean fresh plum finish with deft tannic underpinning also supported by mineral acidity. Quite pleasant, though it needs another year at least to grow, and will do very interesting things with time.
88-90

Castello di Bolgheri

Castello di Bolgheri Varvara Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2007

Deep ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, and quite vegetal, with pungent greenish spice mingled with cedar and artichokes, and supported by savory accents. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich minerality more than fruit supported by savory notes and some spice, and by clean sweet tannins that have dusky bitter accents and flow into a warm vegetal finish. It's pleasant if you like the style, which is fairly varietal (towards Cabernet), and will age nicely for a number of years as well.
2 stars

Castello di Bolgheri Castello di Bolgheri Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some cedar and slight greenish accents. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by greenish mentholated tannins and by savory notes, which flow into a fairly long finish with greenish accents and considerable alcoholic warmth. It's big, but I would have liked more fruit to fill out the house built by the tannins.
1 star


Santini Enrico

Santini Enrico Montepergoli Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006

Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is powerful, with greenish accents mingled with graphite shavings and a fair amount of alcohol, supported by gum Arabic. Not much fruit, however. On the palate it's ample, with minerality and greenish accents more than fruit, and considerable bitterness as well. I'd have liked greater fruit than I found.
1 star

Caccia al Piano

Caccia al Piano Ruith Hora Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, and swishing brings up -- not much. It doesn't want to be disturbed. On the palate it's ample, with moderate fruit supported by savory tannins that have quite a bit of cedar to them. I'd have liked more fruit, because the wine revolves around the tannins, which owe much of their formation to oak, while the fruit is lacking.
1 star

Caccia al Piano Levia Gravia Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with black cherry rim; it's poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense, with iodine and toffee (almost scalded milk) laced with cedar, but not much fruit, nor much acidity. The oak predominates. On the palate it's ample, with brighter than expected sour berry fruit supported by warm sour berry fruit acidity that has underlying graphite shaving bitterness and is supported by savory tannins with a cedar underpinning that flow into a clean fresh savory finish. It's disjointed due to youth, and I would give it a year or perhaps two, because the palate shows potential that the nose doesn't express at present. It's very much a work in progress, and too young to judge, though it may do very interesting things with time.

Casa di Terra

Casa di Terra Allegra Bolgheri Rosato DOC 2009
Pale salmon with brilliant reflections, the bouquet is greenish, with a fair amount of greenish acidity that brings dried hay to mind, supported by some greenish balsamic accents. On the palate it's fairly bitter, with less fruit and less acidity than I might have hoped, which flow into a decidedly bitter finish. I'd have liked more acidity and richness to the fruit.
1 star

Casa di Terra Mosaico Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Impenetrable pyrope with black cherry rim; it's poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense, with smoky accents mingled with sour berry fruit and some barnyard tang, with underlying cedar. On the palate it's ample, and softer than I expected, with cedar laced berry fruit supported by a fair amount of warmth, and by smooth sweet tannins. It's quite young, and needs another year at least to get its bearings; when it does it will be pleasant in a fairly scrappy key, and will drink well with grilled meat or roasts.
2 stars

Casa di Terra Moreccio Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2009
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly fresh, with chalky red berry fruit supported by menthol and some spice, with hints of petroleum and some greenish accents as well. On the palate it's ample, and soft, with less fruit than I might have expected - what there is is plum cherry -- supported by slightly balsamic acidity and by smooth sweet tannins. I would have liked more, and richer fruit.
1 star

Le Grascete

Le Grascete Grale Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is unusual, with red berry fruit supported by savory accents that bring Sichuan preserved vegetable to mind, and by some sweetish notes as well, and hints of cedar from grape. On the palate it's direct, with red berry fruit that displays the same vegetal accents combined with savory spice, and is supported by smooth rather green tannins that flow into a savory finish. It's direct, and fairly particular; if you like these greenish accents you will like the wine, but if you do not you won't. Assuming you do it will work nicely with quickly grilled meats or light stews.
1 star

Eucaliptus

Eucaliptus Clarice Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is quite fresh, and youthful, with violets mingled with plum fruit and some greenish vegetal accents, with slight candied notes too. On the palate it's bright, with moderately rich cherry fruit supported by mineral more than fruit driven acidity, and by dusky bitterness with graphite shaving overtones that flow into a clean fairly bright finish with some graphite shaving bitterness. Approachable, and will drink nicely with grilled meats or light roasts, and also with stews.
2 stars

Ferrari Iris

Ferrari Iris Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with brandied plum fruit supported by some greenish accents and some shellac; with more swishing finger paints of the sort I used as a child also come up. On the palate it's rather thin, with greenish fruit that has some petroleum accents and petroleum acidity, and is supported by tannins that flow into a rather tart finish. I'd have liked greater roundness and depth to the fruit.
1 star

Fornacelle

Fornacelle Zizzolo Vermentino IGT 2009
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections. The bouquet is rather languid, with slightly greenish white berry fruit supported by floral accents, sea salt and some alcohol. Nice balance and depth. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich greenish minerality supported by fairly deft savory acidity that flows into a clean slightly greenish savory finish. Pleasant, and will drink quite nicely as an aperitif or with grilled fish, also fried fish and fried meats in general, with fried veggies too. It grew upon me.
2 stars

Fornacelle Bianco IGT 2009
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections, The bouquet is intense, and quite aromatic, with greenish herbal notes mingled with spice and gunflint, and also fairly rich herbal accents, Nice depth and balance. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bitter minerality supported by mineral acidity that has some gunflint accents and is supported by considerable sea salt that flows into a clean savory finish. Pleasant, in a rather saucy key, and will drink quite well with fried fish or meats and vegetables, and also with flavorful grilled fish, though I'd be more tempted to pair it with fried foods. I especially liked the sea salt in the finish.
2 stars

Fornacelle Zizzolo Rosso Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, and decidedly greenish, with cedar and some spice supporting greenish berry fruit that has some plastery overtones. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense decidedly mentholated fruit supported by tannins that have milky accents and moderate balsamic acidity, with a fair amount of alcohol to support it all. It's not really settled, but does plod, and I found myself wishing for greater depth in the acidity, and more brightness in the fruit.
1 star

La Pineta

La Pineta Donne Fittipaldi Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is shut tight, of the nobody home sort; swishing brings up some vegetal notes but little else. On the palate it's ample, with moderate fruit supported by some but not too much berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins. I'd have liked greater richness and verve to the fruit.
1 star

Greppi Cupi

Greppi Cupi Greppi Cupi Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with violets and blossoms, vegetal accents, and berry fruit mingled with hints of citrus, and some greenish vegetal notes. On the palate it's fresh, with fairly rich floral-laced berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and smooth savory tannins that flow into a clean tannic finish with some savory greenish accents and hints of balsam. Pleasant in a fresh, fairly aggressive scrappy key, and will be quite nice with quickly grilled meats or light stews, and also with hearty pasta dishes and similar.
2 stars

La Macchiole

Le Macchiole Le Macchiole Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Deep black cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with savory notes mingled with some savory berry fruit and some cedar, and also dusky greenish notes. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by smooth cherry plum acidity, and by deft smooth tannins that have slight greenish accents and flow into a clean cherry plum finish. It's quick to write, but pleasant, and will drink well with roasts or stews, and also has the capacity to age nicely for a decade or more.
2 stars

Le Macchiole Messorio IGT 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful with fairly intense cedar mingled with red berry fruit and spice; it's quite harmonious, though also very young and needs another year at least to come together. A nice interweave of fruit and oak. On the palate it's ample, and savory with dusky bitter fruit supported by savory notes and considerable cedar that flows into a decidedly savory cedar laced finish, oak in spades, and if you like the style you will like it. But you have to like heavily oaked wines, because even though wine can beg youth now, the oak will remain with time, and in future years will continue to emerge. I found it excessive, but I am not a fan of small oak barrels.
2 stars

Le Macchiole Paleo Rosso IGT 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with an initial rush of cedar that is balanced by berry fruit and spice; nice balance though at present it's very young and the oak is leading the dance. On the palate it's rich, with powerful dusky berry fruit supported by considerable pencil shaving and graphite shaving bitterness that flow into a clean bitter finish. It's quite elegant, in a dusky key, and if you prefer wines that revolve more around acidity than bitterness you will enjoy it, though you will find things overtones plumb even if you prefer more lively, aggressive wines. An excellent balance of oak and fruit.
2 stars

Antonino Tringali-Casanuova

Antonino Tringali-Casanuova Bolgheri Rosato DOC 2009
Pink with electric pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with dusky berry fruit laced with sweetness and underbrush; it has a languid slightly greenish feel to it and I might have liked a little more richness than I found. On the palate it's bright, however, with rich sour raspberry cherry fruit supported by lively sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are light and deft, but add depth; the overall impression is pleasant and it will drink nicely with cold cuts, mixed antipasti and similar, and will also be a nice cookout wine.
2 stars

Antonio Tringali-Casanuova Bolgheri Rosso Patrimonio Tringali Casanuova Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is powerful, and fairly fresh, with plum laced floral accents and violets mingled with underlying greenish notes and spice; though it's quite young it's pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's ample with rich slightly sour cherry plum fruit supported by savory slightly balsamic acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight cedary burr and flow into a dusky bitter finish. It will drink quite well with grilled meats, especially rare red meats such as a porterhouse steak, and I found it growing upon me.
2 stars

Antonino Trinagli Casanuova Renzo Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by some spice with underlying sweetness; a fellow taster says it reminds him of Port, and as I resniff I realize he has a point. On the palate it's richer than the nose suggests, with bright rich cherry plum fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and deft mineral acidity, while the tannins are quite smooth and flow into a clean fresh rather mineral berry fruit finish with graphite shaving bitterness and some underlying sweetness. I would give it 3-5 years, because it may become ethereal and rather lacy with time.
2 stars

Pianali

Pianali Biserno Coronato Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fresh, with considerable nutmeg spice aced with sandalwood and some sweetish berry fruit; it's pleasant in a spicy international key. On the palate it's ample and fairly rich, with clean spicy berry fruit supported by moderate mineral intensity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. I'd have liked a little more freshness and drive to the fruit, but enjoyed it, and it will drink nicely with simple grilled meats or light strews, Finish warm and plum laced with balsamic accents.
2 stars

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Thank you very much! An impressive spot light for depth and attention about a wonderful land. Antonino Tringali-Casanuova