Friday, September 23, 2011

Tasted at Radici: Colle San Domenico

This year Radici began with two days during which the wine makers poured their wines for us. A very interesting experience, which left me with a great many notes that I am now working through.

Colle San Domenico was established in 1998 in Chiusano San Domenico (province of Aellino), in the heart of Irpinia. They have 15 hectares of vineyards planted to both red and white varietals, and though most of the vineyards are 10-15 years old, the vineyard that yields Aglucus Campi Taurasini DOC is on native root stock and much older.

The wines:

Colle San Domenico Fiano di Avellino DOCG 2010
This underwent cryomaceration prior to fermentation, and is pale brassy yellow, with a fairly rich bouquet opening with citric spice and some loquat supported by slight banana, which is derived from the yeasts, and underlying minerality. On the palate it's bright, with loquat pineapple fruit supported by bright acidity that has tropical fruit overtones, and slight tannins (from grape) that have a slight greenish burr. Quite pleasant and will drink very well with fish or white meats.
2 stars

Colle San Domenico Greco di Tufo DOCG 2010
This is from a vineyard at an altitude of 600 meters. Brassy white with greenish reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with hops and savory notes mingled with citrus and supported by savory minerality that brings freshly crushed granite to mind. On the palate it's pleasant and quite savory, with bright citric acidity that flows into a long savory finish. Graceful,a nd will be quite nice with egg-based dishes, for example quiche.

Colle San Domenico Aglucus Campi Taurasini DOC 2006
Aglucus is, I was told, the Greek name for Aglianico, and indicates without sugar, i.e. bitter -- a vine yielding wines with tannins that would age. The wine is from an old vineyard planted on native root stock that that doesn't yield wines in all years. It was aged for a year in casks, and then 3 months in small wood, and is unfiltered. It's elegant ruby, and has a powerful bouquet with bright berry fruit supported by balsamic notes, mint, spice, and some chocolate-laced cedar. Young. On the palate it's graceful, though still out of sorts, with sour balsam-laced berry fruit supported by balsamic tannins that I found a touch dry, and flow into a long savory finish. It is drinkable, and will indeed work well with roasts, but will also improve markedly with time.
2 stars
Colle San Domenico Taurasi Riserva 2005
This ages for three years in a mixture of small, medium, and large casks, then a year on the lees in steel, and a year in bottle. It's deep cherry ruby and has a spicy bouquet with berry fruit and balsamic notes mingled with menthol and savory accents; it's more powerful than the Aglucus but displays less finesse. On the palate it's full, and rather linear, with smooth sour berry fruit supported by savory notes and some acidity, with smooth tannins that have some balsamic cedar accents. Nice depth and elegance, and a good expression of a wetter vintage that will work well with hearty red meats.
2 stars

1 comment:

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