The Taurasi area doesn't have much in the way of gastronomic options, though something is finally starting to happen. You have to go to Nusco, to Antonio Pisaniello's Locanda di Bu, the Pignata in Ariano irpino, or the Fischetti Brothers' Oasis in Vallesaccarda Ten minutes from here you will find this restaurant, run by Lina Martone, who handles the kitchen, and her husband Giovanni in the hall: a surprise in the heart of the Appellation that will leave you happy and satisfied, because the hand at the burners is authentic, culturally sound but not overly cerebral, and innovative without excessive virtuosity, and for the GM Free and organic Pasdaran, a club we of course belong to, almost everything served at table is made there, from the flour used to bake the bread, to the oil, to the fruit, and to the vegetables.
Her father opened the restaurant in the 80s, and to get an idea of how much things have changed one need only glance at the name, Megaron, aimed primarily at receptions, and is now perfectly in keeping with the size of modern outfits born for banqueting. In 2000 Lina Martone reopened it with her husband Giovanni: about 40 seats, a nice hall in which to enjoy an aperitif or a coffee, a good wine list, and great attention to detail.
One generally starts off with a beignet (chestnut or pomegranate glazed with nettles) and its interplay of hot and cold. Expressions of Irpinian garden cuisine, classic self-consuming agriculture.
To follow a good Irpinian zuppa, and fried baccalà with creamed chickpeas. In the past we have also sampled the Neapolitan-influenced bell pepper crostata on a bed of sun-dried tomato cream, and an excellent Savoy Cabbage cream.
Among the first courses, the home-made fusilli with broccoli from Paternopoli and home-made cotechino. Libidenous.
Finally, a small selection od cheeses followed by a great variety of desserts. Home-made Crostata, chiacchere, and millefoglie swith cream stuffing are but there of the possible choices.
The wine list varies with the seasons. Expect to spend about 35 Euros to dine.
Via Neviera, 11 Tel. / Fax 0827.71588 Closed Mondays. Closed for Vacation During Part Of September www.ilmegaron.it
Published Simultaneously by IGP, I Giovani Promettenti.
NO STAR goes to wines that are correctly made but nothing to get excited about.
ONE STAR goes to wines that are good. TWO STARS go to wines that are very good to excellent. THREE STARS and a POINT SCORE (90-100) go to wines that are superb to extraordinary. And I will give pairing suggestions, which I consider much more important than the scores.