This time Luciano Pignataro takes the stand:
In the eyes of women their beauty endures with the passage of time, and in wine the agricultural greatness of the Campi Flegrei. The area north of Naples with its hundred craters, the heart of the Campania Felix with the Port of Pozzuoli, the major landing point of the Tyrrhenian, with the villas and farms between Vesuvius and Falerno in the days of Ancient Rome.
Now, after 40 years of systematic, methodical assaults on the land, we still have the ruined beauty of Rione Terra, incredible ruins preserved between sea, lava, tuffs, and the arches of the aqueduct under which stream thousands of cars per day. Here there are still traces of ancient agriculture, that which slaked the thirst of Naples in the 1800s and some of the 1900s with Falanghina and Piedirosso, and the Phlegraean cellars are a sort of museum one can visit to refresh one's eyes and palate.
The Piedirosso produced by Giuseppe Fortunato, a cellar that enjoys Slow status for the reasons I've just noted, is both an ancient and a modern wine. Subtle, juicy, with extraordinary cherry and geranium aromas on the nose, capable of holding over time, maturing and finding the proper equilibrium, the structure supported by good acidity, savoriness, sweetness of fruit and bitterness of the minerality from the land that paly on the palate like the sand and the water of the swash zone of the beach, now one, now the other, conferring depth and complexity to a wine that is simply laid out.
Ancient in its history, and modern in its subtle tannins, drinkability, digestibility, finesse, and elegance.
A wine with two secrets: Time and the meticulous, precise work in the vineyard, which is exclusively organic. And then, one really can say, fruit does all. And then the third secret: the balanced relationship between Peppino Fortunato, winemaker by choice, and Antonio Pesce, consulting enologist by family tradition. A wine for food, and also to be at peace with oneself.
Sede a Pozzuoli. Via Tre Piccioni, 40 - Tel. 081.8541651 and 081.5265259 (Fax too) www.dolciqualita.com, Consulting Enologist: Antonio Pesce. Bottles produced: 15.000 Vineyard Area: 4.5 hectares, 2,5 proprietary and 2 rented. Varietals: Falanghina and Piedirosso.
Published Simultaneously by IGP, I Giovani Promettenti.
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