You may or may not have heard about the earthquakes that shook the Pianura Padana this winter, but I was in Tedeschi's offices talking with Sabrina when the floor began to ripple, and we sat quietly watching the floor lamps sway for a few seconds. It's not something I'm used to. Fortunately that was it, and when we finished talking I headed into Verona for the Amarone Anteprima.
They, like the others in the Famiglie dell'Amarone, chose not to participate, also because their wines were not yet in bottle, and I therefore was quite happy to stop at their stand at Vinitaly and taste everything.
Tedeschi Capitel Tenda Soave Classico 2011
Brassy greenish gold with brassy reflections and greenish highlights, paling to white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense with a great deal of gunflint supported by minerality and spice, and by clean greenish accents. On the palate it's ample and quite mineral, with fairly rich lemony fruit supported by gunflint and a certain stoniness that brings struck granite to mind, and flow s into a fairly long slightly bitter gunflint laced finish with underlying lemony grapefruit acidity. It's fairly direct, and will drink well with foods.
Tedeschi Valpolicella Classico 2011
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with deft slightly greenish berry fruit -- cherry mostly, though there is also some raspberry, and supported by bright greenish vegetal acidity that has that classic Valpolicella tang to it, and pleasing fresh floral accents as well. Extremely inviting. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by raspberry acidity and by tannins that have a slight dusky greenish burr, and flow into a long greenish sour cherry finish. Quite pleasant, and will go very fast with foods, ranging from fried meats and vegetables through quickly grilled meats. A perfect cookout wine too, one that one could drink by the bucket.
Tedeschi Capitel Nicalò Valpolicella Superiore 2010
The label says, "Appassimento," which means drying -- the grapes are allowed to dry some before pressing. The wine is deep black garnet ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is intense, with berry fruit supported by some sweetish accents and pleasant greenish vegetal notes mingled with wood smoke and peppery accents, and some sea salt and cedar. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite smooth, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate minerality and slight dusky accents more than acidity, and by tannins that are ample and smooth with some dusky accents that flow into a clean rather dusky savory finish. It's not as bright as it has been in some other vintages, but displays pleasing depth; it's quite approachable and will drink nicely with grilled meats and light stews.
Tedeschi Corasco Rosso delle Venezie IGT 2009
Lot not apparent
This is a blend of Corvina, Raboso and Refosco (75%, 5% and 20%), traditional varietals of the Veneto, and is deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with greenish vegetal laced prune fruit supported by spice and sandalwood with greenish accents as well. Pleasant complexity and very young. On the palate it's rich, with powerful slightly smoky prune fruit supported by deft prune and berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long savory prune finish. It's more direct than the Valpolicella wines, and also eminently approachable, a wine that one can drink without thinking overmuch and will be perfect with roasts or stews. The imprint of the Corvina is quite apparent, and it leads the way, though the other two contribute nicely. The Italian word would be ruffiano, which is ingratiating, and that it is.
Capitel San Rocco Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso 2009
Deep black cherry almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with berry fruit supported by sandalwood and pleasant greenish spice with underlying sea salt and hints of nutmeg and brown sugar, it's quite harmonious and very enjoyable to sniff. On the palate it's bright, with lively prune cherry fruit supported by bright mineral acidity and by tannins that are smooth and rather glancing, with licorice root accents, and flow into a clean bright finish with sour prune accents and deft tannic support and warmth that continue at length. Quite pleasant, with considerable complexity and will work very well with grilled meats or roasts, and also with substantial strew, and is also quite young; it will drink nicely now but will reward you if you decide to give it a few years.
Tedeschi La Fabriseria Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2008
Deep black almandine with black reflections and brownish almandine rim. The bouquet is intense and rather exotic, with sandalwood spice mingled with smoke and slight nose tingling acidity, and with warm sour notes that bring grilled peppers to mind though are not quite that. Harmonious, and quite interesting to sniff. On the palate it's full and quite smooth, with powerful prune cherry fruit supported by bright prune acidity and by tannins that are quite smooth, with a slight dusky burr, and flow into a sandalwood laced prune finish that lasts and lasts, gradually revealing peppery accents as the fruit fades. Very pleasant, and is a wine that will drink very well wit roasts or stews; one could press it into service today, but it will reward those who have the patience to give it 3-5 years. It's one of those wines one hates to pour out at a tasting.
Tedeschi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling towards orange. The bouquet is quite young, with prune fruit supported by sandalwood and sour berry fruit acidity with underlying greenish notes and alcohol, and also a fair amount of licorice root. On the palate it's ample and rich, with bright cherry plum fruit supported by warm berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a slight greenish burr and carry at length into a fairly long bright finish. It is drinkable, but will reward those who are willing to give it time. I would think about opening it in 1018 or so. Expect it to age well for at least 10 years thereafter.
Tedeschi Capitel Monte Olmi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and quite young, with berry fruit supported by licorice root and greenish accents that are supported by spice and a fair amount of alcohol. It's woefully young and really didn't deserve to be opened for tasting yet. On the palate it's ample and powerful, with rich savory sour cherry fruit supported by warmth and peppery spice, while the tannins are ample with a bright peppery cast, and the real question that comes to mind is why anyone would want to open this wine in this decade. It's like a toddler, good natured but still a toddler, and it needs at least 5-7 years to get its bearings and begin to be drinkable. One could now if one had no other choice, but it is a pity. Expect it to age well for 15 years at least. The score reflects the present.
Tedeschi La Fabriseria Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and pigeon blood ruby rim. The bouquet is elegant, with prune fr supported by sandalwood and spice with underlying sweetish accents and warmth, and deft spice and slight acidity. Quite young, but already pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's ample, and moderately sweet, with cherry prune fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by moderate rather mineral acidity; it's quite harmonious, and though the tannins dry the finish -- an effect of its considerable youth -- is already pleasant enough. It will be much nicer in the future, but if you felt you had to you could drink it now. I wouldn't, and would hold onto it for at least 5 years before I even thought about opening it. Because the potential is there.
Tedeschi Capitel Fontana Recioto Della Valpolicella Classico 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim with some almandine reflections in the nail. The bouquet is fairly intense, with prune fruit supported by prune acidity and brown sugar sweetness with some pleasant slightly greenish sandalwood accents. Quite pleasant to sniff in a ripe sweet key, and as it opens some licorice root also emerges. On the palate it's full and sweet, with powerful prune fruit supported by fairly bright prune acidity and by tannins that have a warm slightly greenish burr and flow into a lasting slightly tannic fruit finish. Quite pleasant in a fairly voluptuous key, and will drink very well with cheeses, especially more piquant cheese and softer well herbed cheeses, or far form the table.
Almost Wordless Wednesday: Between Here And There - I took this shot during the Pelleginaggio Artusiano in the spring of 2011. The mirror is somewhere between Castrocaro Terme and Portico di Romagna (on the ro...
7 months ago