Friday, June 22, 2012

La Bruciata: Moscato & More

A couple of years ago Oscar Bosio, who is best known for his Moscato, contacted me via Facebook and asked me to stop at his stand at Vinitaly. I did, for what I thought would be a quick stop, only to discover he makes all sorts of wines, all worth thinking about. This year I didn't make it to his stand, and he kindly sent samples to me.

La Bruciata Langhe Arneis DOC 2011
Lot AR04.12
Pale slightly greenish brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, with pleasant citrus, a mixture of citron and tangerine, mingled with some minerality and underlying slightly mentholated heather, all supported by sea salt. On the palate it's bright, with lively mineral laced brambly citrus that reveals heathery vegetal accents as it flows into the finish, which is long. It's quite refreshing, with considerable backbone, and will work very well with summer foods, including fried fish or meats, and also has the wherewithal to age nicely for at least 2-3 years; while its freshness now is nice if I had a case I'd set a couple of bottles aside, because they could provide a pleasant surprise.

La Bruciata Langhe Chardonnay DOC 2011
Lot CH 04.12
Pale brassy green with brilliant greenish reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fresh, and rather lemony, with some underlying sea salt and slight crisp green apple, and an underpinning of heather from a cut field in summer. On the palate it's softer than the Arneis, with rather languid lemony pineapple laced fruit supported by bright acidity and slight minerality that flows into a fairly long tart finish that gradually releases fairly acidic Delicious apple notes. It's a wine that will work nicely as an aperitif or with more delicate dishes -- I wouldn't serve it with fried meats or fish -- and I would drink it now to enjoy its freshness.
2 stars

La Bruciata Aivè Vino Bianco
Lot 2.10
An aivé is the opposite of a Sorì, in other words a north-facing slope, and this is a Moscato from north-facing slopes, bottled still. Because it's still -- the rules governing the appellations don't foresee a still dry Moscato -- it's a table wine, and therefore doesn't have a vintage, but from the lot number we can deduce that it's a 2010. Pale brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections and slight greenish highlights; white rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rich sugary Moscato notes mingled with menthol and heather, and rather voluptuous yellow peach, while there's also a slight counterpoint of sweaty blonde that adds complexity and depth. Particular. On the palate it's  crisp and bright, with considerable minerality supported by mineral acidity that has slight heather notes as well, and flows into a long mineral finish. It's quite tight, and much brasher than the Chardonnay, and to my way of thinking better defined, but you have to like tarter defter wines to enjoy it. If you do you will, and it is quite distinct from the more common International varietal wines..

La Bruciata Moscato D'Asti DOCG 2011
Lot MO 10 11
Pale greenish brassy yellow with fine abundant perlage, quite a bit for a Moscato. The bouquet is rich, but not overly sweet, with some honeydew melon  and slight heather supported by the sweetness that honeydew melon  can have. Quick to write but harmonious. On the palate it's full and sweet, with elegant honeydew melon  fruit that has enough acidity to keep from being cloying, and creamy fullness from the sparkle, which is quite soft, and it all flows into a fairly long honeydew melon  laced finish. Quite pleasant, and will be perfect at poolside on a hot day, or with frieds outside as the sky darkens and the stars come out. A good Moscato can be a great delight, and this one is.

La Bruciata Dolcetto D'Alba DOC 2011
Lot DO 04.12
Lively slightly purple cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is classic Dolcetto, with a mixture of red berry fruit and bitter almonds supported by some greenish brambly accents. Zesty. On the palate it's light-medium bodied, with lively bitter berry fruit supported by bitter almonds and quite a bit of sea salt, while the tannins are dusky and bitter, and have a nice bite to them. In a word, scrappy, and if you like the style it will work very well with simple grilled meats, for example burgers or ribs or chicken (the latter seasoned with herbs, not sweet sauces). It's one of those wines that will go very fast in the proper setting, and you will need a second bottle.
2 stars

La Bruciata Barbera D'Alba DOC 2010
Lot BA 04.11
Lively almandine ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is warm, and fairly rich, with red berry fruit supported by brambly strawberry acidity and by some mineral notes that have a touch of struck granite to them, and that gain in intensity as the wine opens. On the palate it's medium bodied, with decidedly brambly fruit supported by considerable sea salt and some balsamic savory accents, coupled with fairly bright mineral acidity and tannins that have a slight burr to them. It's rather old style, especially in the balsamic cast, and if you are looking for ripe red fruit, and smooth softness, it's not going to work for you. If you instead like scrappier wines with a bit of bite to them, it will work very well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and go quickly.
2 stars

For more information, check La Bruciata's Site.

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