Rosanna Ferraro has a delightfully impish smile, and is blessed with a sly sense of humor, as I discovered in the course of last year's Pellegrinaggio Artusiano. She also has a fine feel for what's distinctive in wine, and this year assembled a group of winemakers from Italy's many smaller islands. People who are dynamic and devoted to their craft, but due to the physical limitations of only being able to work that much land, would be overshadowed if they simply presented their wines along side those from the larger islands, or worse yet the mainland.
Though the wines are from places that are in some cases geographically very distinct, Rosanna says that in tasting though them she found similarities she attributes to similarities in the environmental conditions on the various islands, the influence of the sea, for example. And I think she's right; they do display similarities, and even share a distinctiveness that comes from being primarily made from strictly indigenous grapes whose character does come through, influenced and supported by the sea and the terroir.
I have often said that Italy is a great place for lovers of particular and distinctive wines, and Italy's lesser isles are the place to go for those whose take this love to extremes. Because they will find mush to get excited about.
Given time constraints, I only tasted two wines from each winery, asking the winemaker to select which to present. It was a very pleasant morning. The wines, in the order tasted:
Tommasone (Ischia)
Tommasone Pithecusa Bianco Epomeo Bianco IGT 2011Lot 0712
Pale brassy white with greenish highlights and white rim. The bouquet is elegant, with heather, sea salt and spice mingled with some cut green apple, slight passion fruit, and hints of bazooka Joe gum, with underlying granite. On the palate it's fresh and fairly lively with nice spicy minerality laced gunflint supported by passion fruit and some sour green apricot that comes to the fore, flowing into a long mineral green apricot finish that is balanced by slight sweetness. Pleasant, and very fresh; it will work well with fish, and also with white meats.
2 stars
Tommasone Vigna dei Preti Biancolella DOC 2010Lot 1313
Brassy greenish gold with brilliant brassy reflections and green highlights. Charged. The bouquet is fairly intense, with minerality and green apricots laced with butterscotch and some vegetal notes. On the palate it's fresh, and rather languid, with pleasing savory minerality and some gunflint supported by mineral acidity and some butterscotch, which flow into a clean butterscotch laced savory finish with some gunflint. Pleasant in a more languid key, more of a sipping than a quaffing wine, and it will be nice with fish.
2 stars
Casa D'Ambra (Ischia)
Casa D'Ambra Ischia Biancolella DOC 2011Lot 4411312
Pale brassy gold with brilliant greenish reflections. The bouquet is fresh, with sea salt and some quite green apricot mingled with slight gunflint and spice. On the palate it's equally fresh, with pleasing minerality supported by savory notes and peppery spice that confers a slight feeling if petillacnce, and flows into a fairly long savory finish that brings struck granite to mind. Quite refreshing in a distinctly mineral key, the sort of wine one can set out and drink; with fried meats or fish and vegetables it will be perfect.
2 stars
Casa D'Ambra Forastera Euposia Ischia DOC 2010Lot 3312
Forastera is a varietal introduced from the mainland in 1850; in Italian the word forestiero means (when applied to people) "not from here," and it works for varietals too. It's a single vineyard wine. Charged greenish gold with brassy reflections and greenish highlights. The bouquet is delicate, with minerality and some white berry fruit mingled with spice and slight butterscotch. Deft. On the palate it's mineral, with a fairly intense gunflint underpinning with hints of smoke, and flows into a fairly long mineral finish in which the gunflint carries. Minerality in a glass and refreshing, a food wine that will work well with grilled fish, and that also has the bitterness necessary to complement oysters and shellfish. It's a little more demanding than some.
2 stars
Casa D'Ambra Ischia Per'è Palummo DOC 2010Lot not apparent.
Garnet with black reflections and ruby highlights, and slight brownishness on the rim. The bouquet is fresh and quite floral, with sweetness and violets mingled with slight sandalwood and some underbrush, with additional savory accents and warmth. Pleasant, and as it opens some cut flower pungency also emerges. On the palate it's fairly light, with bright floral accents -- It's like chewing violets supported by considerable bitter graphite shavings and gunflint minerality that carry into a very bitter finish with floral notes. It's a far distance from things like Merlot, and will be pleasant with red-sauced pasta dishes, quickly grilled meats, and similar. Quite interesting, and if you like wines that are distinctive it's something to try.
2 stars
Note: Per' è Palummo means "the dove's foot" in Neapolitan (a palummo is a dove), and refers to the shape of the bunch stem. Wanting to say it in Italian, it would be Peduncolo Rosso.
Tenuta di Castellaro (Lipari)
Tenuta di Castellaro Bianco Pomice Sicilia IGT 2010Lot CB11
Brilliant slightly greenish brassy white with golden reflections. The bouquet is mineral with some dusky accents, and some acidity; it gives an impression of holding back. On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with warm eucalyptus-laced lemony fruit with slight licorice root bitterness that carries into a fairly long, fairly bitter licorice root laced finish with underlying savory notes. Pleasant as a food wine, and will work well with both fish and white meats.
2 stars
Tenuta di Castellaro Nero Ossidiana Sicilia IGT Rosso 2010Lot CR 12
Poured pyrope ink with violet rim. The bouquet is moderately intense with savory prune fruit supported by jammy accents and some savory notes with considerable minerality as well. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite tannic, with slightly jammy prune fruit laced with blackberries and supported by tannins that have marked sandalwood notes and flow into a long gunflint laced bitter tannic finish. The tannins direct the wine and make it a food wine, not something to consider far from the table. It will work well with quickly grilled meats, but will overpower more delicate dishes. Takes no quarter
1 star
Acquabona (Elba)
Acquabona Ansonica dell'Elba DOC 2010
Though the wines are from places that are in some cases geographically very distinct, Rosanna says that in tasting though them she found similarities she attributes to similarities in the environmental conditions on the various islands, the influence of the sea, for example. And I think she's right; they do display similarities, and even share a distinctiveness that comes from being primarily made from strictly indigenous grapes whose character does come through, influenced and supported by the sea and the terroir.
I have often said that Italy is a great place for lovers of particular and distinctive wines, and Italy's lesser isles are the place to go for those whose take this love to extremes. Because they will find mush to get excited about.
Given time constraints, I only tasted two wines from each winery, asking the winemaker to select which to present. It was a very pleasant morning. The wines, in the order tasted:
Tommasone (Ischia)
Tommasone Pithecusa Bianco Epomeo Bianco IGT 2011Lot 0712Pale brassy white with greenish highlights and white rim. The bouquet is elegant, with heather, sea salt and spice mingled with some cut green apple, slight passion fruit, and hints of bazooka Joe gum, with underlying granite. On the palate it's fresh and fairly lively with nice spicy minerality laced gunflint supported by passion fruit and some sour green apricot that comes to the fore, flowing into a long mineral green apricot finish that is balanced by slight sweetness. Pleasant, and very fresh; it will work well with fish, and also with white meats.
2 stars
Tommasone Vigna dei Preti Biancolella DOC 2010Lot 1313
Brassy greenish gold with brilliant brassy reflections and green highlights. Charged. The bouquet is fairly intense, with minerality and green apricots laced with butterscotch and some vegetal notes. On the palate it's fresh, and rather languid, with pleasing savory minerality and some gunflint supported by mineral acidity and some butterscotch, which flow into a clean butterscotch laced savory finish with some gunflint. Pleasant in a more languid key, more of a sipping than a quaffing wine, and it will be nice with fish.
2 stars
Casa D'Ambra (Ischia)
Casa D'Ambra Ischia Biancolella DOC 2011Lot 4411312
Pale brassy gold with brilliant greenish reflections. The bouquet is fresh, with sea salt and some quite green apricot mingled with slight gunflint and spice. On the palate it's equally fresh, with pleasing minerality supported by savory notes and peppery spice that confers a slight feeling if petillacnce, and flows into a fairly long savory finish that brings struck granite to mind. Quite refreshing in a distinctly mineral key, the sort of wine one can set out and drink; with fried meats or fish and vegetables it will be perfect.
2 stars
Casa D'Ambra Forastera Euposia Ischia DOC 2010Lot 3312
Forastera is a varietal introduced from the mainland in 1850; in Italian the word forestiero means (when applied to people) "not from here," and it works for varietals too. It's a single vineyard wine. Charged greenish gold with brassy reflections and greenish highlights. The bouquet is delicate, with minerality and some white berry fruit mingled with spice and slight butterscotch. Deft. On the palate it's mineral, with a fairly intense gunflint underpinning with hints of smoke, and flows into a fairly long mineral finish in which the gunflint carries. Minerality in a glass and refreshing, a food wine that will work well with grilled fish, and that also has the bitterness necessary to complement oysters and shellfish. It's a little more demanding than some.
2 stars
Casa D'Ambra Ischia Per'è Palummo DOC 2010Lot not apparent.
Garnet with black reflections and ruby highlights, and slight brownishness on the rim. The bouquet is fresh and quite floral, with sweetness and violets mingled with slight sandalwood and some underbrush, with additional savory accents and warmth. Pleasant, and as it opens some cut flower pungency also emerges. On the palate it's fairly light, with bright floral accents -- It's like chewing violets supported by considerable bitter graphite shavings and gunflint minerality that carry into a very bitter finish with floral notes. It's a far distance from things like Merlot, and will be pleasant with red-sauced pasta dishes, quickly grilled meats, and similar. Quite interesting, and if you like wines that are distinctive it's something to try.
2 stars
Note: Per' è Palummo means "the dove's foot" in Neapolitan (a palummo is a dove), and refers to the shape of the bunch stem. Wanting to say it in Italian, it would be Peduncolo Rosso.
Tenuta di Castellaro (Lipari)
Tenuta di Castellaro Bianco Pomice Sicilia IGT 2010Lot CB11
Brilliant slightly greenish brassy white with golden reflections. The bouquet is mineral with some dusky accents, and some acidity; it gives an impression of holding back. On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with warm eucalyptus-laced lemony fruit with slight licorice root bitterness that carries into a fairly long, fairly bitter licorice root laced finish with underlying savory notes. Pleasant as a food wine, and will work well with both fish and white meats.
2 stars
Tenuta di Castellaro Nero Ossidiana Sicilia IGT Rosso 2010Lot CR 12Poured pyrope ink with violet rim. The bouquet is moderately intense with savory prune fruit supported by jammy accents and some savory notes with considerable minerality as well. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite tannic, with slightly jammy prune fruit laced with blackberries and supported by tannins that have marked sandalwood notes and flow into a long gunflint laced bitter tannic finish. The tannins direct the wine and make it a food wine, not something to consider far from the table. It will work well with quickly grilled meats, but will overpower more delicate dishes. Takes no quarter
1 star
Acquabona (Elba)
Acquabona Ansonica dell'Elba DOC 2010
Lot not apparent
Pale brassy gold with brassy reflections that are rather green. The bouquet is moderately intense with some savory notes and sea salt laced with minerality and hints of heather, with some mineral acidity too. On the palate it's bright, with gunflint laced savory lemony fruit that flows into a clean rather mineral finish. It's quite direct and will drink well as an aperitif or with fish. Deft in the context of the style, and will go quickly.
1 star
Acquabona Aleatico dell'Elba DOC 2007
Lot not apparent
Brownish garnet with brilliant brownish reflections and rim. The nose is quite typical, with very sweet red fruit supported by sandalwood and some greenish accents, considerable graphite shavings, and a fair amount of alcohol -- it seems like more than the 14% indicated on the label -- and as it opens mentholated accents and quinine. A lot going on. On the palate it's ample, and sweet, with rich licorice root laced quinine and candied red fruit supported by a sandalwood-laced tannic underpinning that flows into a very long finish. A classic Aleatico, and if you like the wine, which is rather particular, you will enjoy it very much. It's one of those wines one hates to pour out at at tasting.
90-91
Antiche Cantine Migliaccio (Ponza)
Antiche Cantine Migliaccio Fieno di Ponza IGT Lazio Bianco 2011Lot not apparent.
Brilliant brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is tart, with greenish vegetal accents and very green apricot supported by some licorice root bitterness and white blossoms. The palate is bright and fairly bitter with sea salt and gunflint minerality that flow into a fairly long rather bitter slightly tannic finish. Bracing, and will be very nice with grilled or fried fish or white meats. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars
Antiche Cantine Migliaccio Fieno di Ponza IGT Lazio Rosato 2011Lot not apparent.
Onionskin with brilliant copper reflections and white rim. The bouquet is delicate, with pleasant floral notes mingled with red berry fruit and some violets, with strawberry and wild strawberry acidity. Refreshing. On the palate it's fresh, with strawberry fruit supported by brambly raspberry acidity and tannins that are light, with gunflint bitterness that flows into a clean rather bitter gunflint laced finish with a fair amount of sea salt. Quite refreshing and will drink nicely with simple summer foods -- the perfect picnic or cookout wine.
2 stars
Le Piane (Capraia)Le Piane Rosa della Piana Toscana IGP Aleatico 2011Lot 1/12
Pale rose petal pink with brilliant pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is delicate, with floral accents, wild strawberry, some strawberry acidity and slight sweetness; it's quite fresh. On the palate it's ample and bright with wild strawberry fruit supported by raspberry acidity and pleasant savory minerality that flow into a fairly long savory mineral finish. Quite fresh, and will be pleasant as an aperitif or at a picnic or cookout, and also has the acidity necessary for fried meats or fish.
2 stars
Le Piane Cristina Aleatico Toscano IGP 2010Lot 1/11
Brownish garnet ruby with black reflections and brownish accents on the rim. The bouquet is intense and sweet, with berry fruit and considerable sandalwood supported by quinine bitterness and moderate alcohol, and considerable graphite shavings. Quite a bit going on in a sweet slightly brooding key. On the palate it's sweet and rich, with fairly intense prune fruit laced with sandalwood and quinine bitterness, and supported by tannins that flow into a long bitter (as much as a sweet wine can be) sandalwood finish with plum fruit to balance, which fades into dry sandalwood laced tannins. Pleasant in a slightly more brooding key and will be perfect with flavorful cheeses or by the fire.
2 stars
Cecilia (Elba)
Cecilia Ansonica Elba DOC 2011Lot 2822
Pale brassy white with greenish reflections and white rim. Pale brassy white with greenish reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fresh, with fairly intense minerality and heather cou0pled with some gunflint and white blossoms. On the palate it's fairly bright and quite direct, with considerable minerality that gains some depth from slight sour lemony acidity, while floral accents reemerge in the finish. It will drink nicely with grilled or roasted fish, and is a fine interpretation of the varietal.
2 stars
Cecilia Aleatico Elba DOC 2009Lot 1974
Brownish garnet ruby with brownish reflections and some brown in the rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with savory notes and dusky greenish accents supporting quinine bitterness and some spice, with underlying hints of sandalwood and some stewed prunes. On the palate it's quite sweet, with more intense prune fruit that one finds in some Aleatico, supported by lemony acidity that confers brightness and by bitterness with quinine accents that flow into a long dried prune finish in which sweetness is balanced by acidity. Pleasant, and more interesting on the palate, where it shows considerable verve, than on the nose. If you like Aleatico you will enjoy it.
2 stars
U' Tabarka (Isola di San Pietro)
U' Tabarka Giancù Isola dei Nuraghi IGT 2010
Lot not apparent.
Pale brassy white with brilliant brassy reflections and greenish highlights. The bouquet is savory, with considerable warm sea salt supporting lemony acidity and slight gunflint, with hints of bitter almond as well. On the palate it's just as savory, with considerable bitter minerality and a fairly long bitter mineral finish that does display hints of sweetness. It's pleasant in an up front key, and will work quite well with foods.
2 stars
U' Tabarka Seiann-A (Serata)
Single lot, from 2008
This is a Vino da Uvte Stramature, or wine from extremely overripe grapes, and is 17% alcohol. Brilliant charged gold with gold highlights and reflections; it brings to mind the gold of Renaissance picture frames. The bouquet is intense and sweet, with sugars and some gunflint supported by floral accents, cut flowers,, some sea salt, and a certain floral pungency as it opens. On the palate it's quite mineral, with underlying richness that derives partially from sweetness, though there are other things going on, and flows into a long gunflint laced finish with some bitter accents that brings sherry or Marsala (or, for that Matter, a Sardinian Vernaccia) to mind, coupled with lasting warmth. It's a bit extreme, and something you should only consider if you like this sort of wine. Demanding too, and if you are looking for something to simply sip without thinking overmuch, it's not for you.
2 stars
U Tabarka Roussou Isola dei Nuraghi IGT 2008
Lot not apparent
Dusky garnet ruby with black reflections and some orange in the rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with savory red berry fruit supported by some bitter notes and some gunflint, with underlying sea salt. We're far from the French varietals here. On the palate it's medium bodied and rather dry, with moderate sandalwood laced berry fruit supported by bitter minerality and some spice -- there's more bitterness than acidity -- and it flows into a clean bright sandalwood laced mineral finish. The tannins and sandalwood overshadow the fruit, and as a result it will work best, assuming you like the style, with grilled or roasted meats, including fattier cuts.
2 stars
Famiglia Carfagna (Giglio)
Famiglia Carfagna Ansonico dell'Isola del Giglio Maremma Toscana IGT 2010Lot 10 1
Brilliant gold with golden reflections shifted towards apricot, and white rim. The bouquet is interesting, with white raisins and some minerality coupled with slight oxidation. Very old style, and as it opens there is also brown sugar; it's rather welcoming, in a sweet key. On the palate it's ample and languid, with warm mineral laced white berry fruit supported by gunflint minerality and savory accents, with some licorice root that gradually emerges. Old style, and if you like that you will like it. If your tastes are more modern it won't work as well for you.
1 star
Famiglia Carfagna Rosso Saverio Isola del Giglio maremma Toscana IGT 2009
Lot 09 2. The label says, "Da Uve Miste," From Mixed Grapes
Slightly brownish garnet with black reflections and garnet rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with sour berry fruit supported by some quinine, licorice root, slight hazelnut, sea salt, and some savory sandalwood spice. Again, it feels old style. On the palate it's medium bodied and fairly bright, with berry fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and tannins that flow into a fairly long rather bitter finish with hazelnut accents. Old style, with a bit of oxidation, but nicely done, and though it is more particular than most wines, if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars
Cenatiempo (Ischia)Cenatiempo Kalimera Ischia Biancolella IGT 2010 Lot 11-1
Pale brassy yellow with greenish brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense and savory, with greenish mineral accents and some spice. On the palate it's bright, with lively savory lemony fruit supported by pleasant acidity and gunflint minerality that flows into a fairly long savory mineral finish with a slight flinty burr. Quite pleasant and will drink well with grilled fish or even white meats. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars
Cennatiempo Màvros Epomeo IGT Rosso 2009
Lot 113-1
Deep garnet with black reflections. The bouquet is intense, with jammy prune fruit supported by balsamic notes, some hazelnut, some sandalwood, and a fair amount of graphite shavings inter,aced with alcoholic warmth. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's light, with bright berry fruit supported by sandalwood laced tannins and moderate mineral acidity that flow into a fairly long mineral finish. It's pleasant and graceful but particular; if you like the smoother, softer fruit forward international style it won't work for you. But if you like scrappier wines you will enjoy it.
2 stars
Giardini Arimei (Ischia)
Giardini Arimei Passito Secco
This is from Ischia, and is a non-vintage wine. No lot either.
Tawny yellow with slight greenish reflections and brilliant gold highlights. The bouquet is powerful, with some sweet accents mingled with minerality, honeydew melon , savory notes, and sunlight. Quite rich in an opulent, almost Baroque key, and with more swishing sea salt and hints of onions also emerge. Quite a lot going on. On the palate it's sweet, with moderately intense apricot fruit supported by apricot acidity and some savory accents that flow into a fairly long sweet savory finish. Particular, and sweet but not really sweet; if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola D'Ancona (Pantelleria)
Azienda Agricola D'Ancona Cimilly
Lot 07/11
This is a Passito di Pantelleria DOC, and is tawny gold with brilliant greenish gold reflections and white rim. The bouquet is full and sweet, with raisins balanced by sea salt; it's like sticking your head into a bag of Zibibbo raisins by the sea. On the palate it's sweet, and lush, with elegant Zibibbo fruit supported by green apricot acidity and flows rather quickly into a savory apricot laced finish with some apricot acidity. Luscious, and voluptuous, though not quite a starlet in a glass. A wine to sip with piquant cheeses along the lines of Roquefort or Gorgonzola Piccante, or far from the table.
2 stars
No comments:
Post a Comment