This year the folks at the Chianti Rufina Consorzio once again asked Ian D'Agata to present their wines, and he once again proved himself to be a fine speaker with an excellent understanding of the appellation.
Chianti Rufina is a small area with a small number of wineries, and therefore is fairly uniform, much more so than the other Chianti areas, including Chianti Classico. With respect to the other Chianti zones it's the highest, with lively acidities, and, Ian says, a lighter textural feel in the mouth. I'm not sure that's universal, but taken as a group the Chianti Rufina wines do tend to revolve around finesse and elegance, with structures that are, yes, steely, but delicate rather than massive.
The comparison with Burgundy they held last year was a great success, so this year they thought to pair Chianti Rufina with another Pinot Noir, and suggested a selection of wines from Oregon; while Ian agreed that they were good he felt and Oregon's wines to be nice but not equivalent, rather with more fruit and more alcohol than Rufina. In terms of an equivalent, he suggested Pinot Noir from Ontario.
Ontario, towards the shore of Lake Ontario, is well suited to cool weather varietals such as Pinot Noir and Riesling, and Ian grew up tasting them; he said the first clones planted were so-so, and remembers the wines from the 70s as "hideous," but since then better clones have been planted and things have improved considerably. There are four appellations in Ontario: Niagara, Prince Edward County (where vines were first planted more than a century ago), Pelee Island, and Lake Eerie North Shore. The best, are Prince Edward County and Niagara, where they are now working to identify subappellations.
My impression of the comparison was the same I had last year, and I will quote it:
How do Rufina and Pinot Nero compare? Not particularly well. Pinot Noir revolves primarily around finesse; it's an essential wine that would be too much were one to add a jot, and not enough were one to remove one. In other words, it's a balancing act, suspended high above the ground. Sangiovese and its allies in Rufina work in a different direction, displaying finesse, but also power, and playing off a balance between fruit, acidity and tannin that is very different from what Pinot does, but not necessarily inferior. If one were to borrow from the musical world, Burgundy grabs an instrument and plays a solo (for some reason the clarinet comes to mind), whereas Rufina gathers a group of instruments and plays a concerto. Very different expressions, but both can be sublime.
We tasted Rufina wines from 2008, and Ontario wines from 2009. Two similar vintages, both cooler, and with more elegance than usual. 09 was a very good vintage for Ontario.
To begin, six Rufina wines from the 2008 vintage
Casa Vinicola Le Coste Chianti Rufina Riserva 2008
Deep cherry with black reflections. The bouquet is rich, and spicy, with a fair amount of alcohol, cherry fruit, graphite shavings, bitterness, and dusky notes; there's nice depth, freshness and finesse. Young. On the palate it's medium bodied and graceful with lively sour cherry fruit supported by bright acidity and tannins that have a slight burr, flow into a clean fairly tart finish. Considerable finesse, which predominates over power, and elegance. Quite pleasant to drink and will also age nicely for 8-10 years at least. Something to seek out if you like the style, which is not lush, nor overly polished and smooth. Despite the presence of 8% Cabernet Sauvignon it has a more traditional feel, with brambles in the tannins.
90-91
Marchesi De'Frescobaldi Castello di Nipozzano Chianti Rufina Riserva 2008
Deep black cherry with black reflections. The bouquet is dusky, with cherry fruit supported by some bitterness, spice, slight greenish acidity, hints of dried mushroom, underbrush and sea salt. On the palate it's medium bodied, and deft, with bright berry fruit supported by smooth slightly mineral acidity and polished smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean sour cherry finish that's quite long, with some greenish vegetal accents. The Italian word that comes to mind is ruffiano, which means ingratiating -- it's very approachable, quite pleasant to drink, and if you are unfamiliar with Chianti Rufina and are coming from an international perspective provides a good introduction to it.
90
Podere il Pozzo Chianti Rufina Riserva 2008
Lively almandine rim with almandine rim. The bouquet is fresh, and brambly, with some berry fruit but more bramble, some heather, acidity that brings to mind a hot summer day, some spice, and as it opens hints of wood smoke. On the palate it's ample and fairly smooth, with bright cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Pleasant, and nicely combines smoothness with finesse, more polished than the Le Coste and as a result slightly more approachable.
90-91.
Fattoria il Lago Chianti Rufina Riserva 2008
Almandine with black reflections almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and dusky, with graphite shaving bitterness, some spice, some alcohol, and minerality more than fruit. Elegant in cool weather key, and as it opens some iodine emerges. On the palate it's ample, and smooth, with fairly bright berry fruit supported by bitter graphite shaving minerality and some spice, and by a fair amount of alcohol and sea salt. Nice balance in a more mineral key, and suggests cooler temperatures. Indeed, we were told it is from a higher part of the appellation. I liked it, though some tasters found it more mature than they wanted it to be.
2 stars
Fattoria Lavacchio Cedro Chianti Rufina Riserva 2008
Deep almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is intensely oaky, with cedary oaky sweetness mingled with spice and some berry fruit, though cedar overshadows all, allowing also some balsamic notes and some gum Arabic with underlying alcohol. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with moderate fruit overshadowed by cedar in the tannins, and supported by minerality and duskiness more than acidity, flowing into a long cedar laced finish with underlying bitterness oak colors all and directs the wine. Not my style.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Frascole Chianti Rufina Riserva 2008
This vintage was difficult for them -- quite damp to begin with and the peronospora mold struck. Then temperatures jumped in Aug-September, and led to a degree of ripening that surprised them. Pale almandine ruby with black reflections almandine rim. The bouquet is deft, with berry fruit supported by sea salt and some savory notes, also by bramble and slight lathered horse and some balsamic notes. Pleasant in a rather distant, slightly rustic very traditional key,. On the palate it's deft, with bright berry fruit supported by some jammy accents I didn't expect, moderate acidity, and tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a clean rather bitter savory finish with some jammy notes from fruit. It's past the coming together phase but is very young, and is still tentative; with age it will be quite elegant in a lacy ethereal key, but it needs a few years to get there.
88-90
Six Canadian Wines from the 2009 VintageMalivoire Mottiar Beamsville Bench Pinot Noir 2009
Pale pinkish ruby with white rim. The bouquet is deft, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by minerality and sea salt with some underlying spice, and savory notes with hints of cumin. Quite graceful, though it does have a something about it -- not quite simplicity -- that suggests vine youth. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a dusky burr and savory notes, and slight greenish accents, and flows into a bright tannic sour berry fruit finish Quite elegant and a very fine expression of pinot noir. Very young vines, planted in 2005 and this is the second vintage.
88-90
Cave Spring Cellars Estate Beamsville Bench Pinot Noir 2009
Pale ruby, almost a dark rosé, and in this quite classic, with white rim. The bouquet is elegant, with cool savory berry fruit supported by dusky citric acidity and by brambly greenness with mint and balsam, some graphite shavings too. On the palate it's bright, with clean fresh sour cherry fruit supported by bitterness and sour brambly accents, and flow into a clean brambly finish Quite pleasant, and extremely elegant; it has a lot to say and will be much more interesting in a few years than it is now.
90-92
Flat Rock Cellars Gravity Twenty Mile Bench Pinot Noir 2009
Pale translucent brick ruby with pale rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and rather wild, with bramble and sea salt supporting some fruit and citric acidity with strong underlying greenish accents and petroleum. Interesting, in a more demanding key, and more distant than the others. On the palate it's smoother than expected, with bitter petroleum laced berry fruit supported by tannins that have gunflint bitterness and flow into a bitter mineral finish with petroleum and fruit that lasts and lasts. We're not in Kansas any more, said Dorothy, and we're not in Rufina either. A world apart.
92
Flat Rock Cellars Bench Pinot Noir Reserve 2009
This is a selection of the barrels, the remainder goes into Gravity. Translucent brick ruby that's slightly darker than the other Flat Rock wine. The bouquet is deft, and more mineral, with spice and greenish accents supporting spice and some greenish vegetal acidity. Nice depth and elegance, a touch more restrained than the base wine, as if it were gathering its strength. On the palate it's bright, with sour cherry fruit supported by considerable savory bitterness and spice, and by tannins that are smooth and have a rather bitter finish. It's more graceful than Gravity, and also has more spine, and with time may do more interesting things, but I found myself preferring Gravity's brash zestiness in some ways. It's a toss up, and which you will prefer depends upon your stylistic preference. Both are quite good, and it is very interesting to taste between them. The Reserve is more graceful, and displays more finesse.
93
Norman Hardie Prince Edward County Pinot Noir 2009
Pale translucent ruby with white rim. The bouquet is deft, with minerality and red berry fruit supported by savory notes and some bitterness; it's a bit less acidic (though still acidic) than the Niagara wines but displays considerable grace. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity, and by clean tannins that have a slight splintery burr, and flow into a clean fresh sour berry fruit finish. Very pleasant, showing considerable finesse, though you have to like high acidity wines to enjoy it.
90
Norman Hardie L Pinot Noir 2009
This is a blend of several Niagara and prince Edward fruit, made in the best years. A combination of the finesse of Prince Edward County and the richness of Niagara. Pale pink ruby with dusky black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is elegant, with savory berry fruit supported by some balsamic notes, dusky acidity, some menthol, and some savory acidity as well laced with hints of cumin and wet bark. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry raspberry fruit supported by tannins that have a greenish burr and slight splinter, and by pleasant greenish acidity that flows into a clean bright savory finish with brambly bitterness. Enjoyable, with considerable finesse, and will drink quite well with foods. Versatile too.
93-4
One thing to note about the Canadian wines is that they are all about 12% alcohol. The Italian wines tend to have more, and it would be nice to see them return to this level.
Two Older Wines
Castello del Trebbio Chianti Rufina Riserva 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. Looks younger than 8. The bouquet is elegant, with berry fruit supported by dusky underbrush and spice, some cherries, some alcohol, and slight sweetness as well. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's full and bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by fairly bright acidity, and by tannins that have a dusky graphite shaving burr and flow into a clean fairly long bitter finish. Quite impressive, and graceful, with a great deal going on, though it is just entering maturity and has a long route ahead of it, is already very pleasant to drink. Extremely enjoyable.
92-3
Cave Spring Cellars Estate Beamsville Bench Pinot Noir 2002
Pale brick ruby with black reflections and brownish almandine paling to white in the rim. The bouquet is interesting, with a rich of white truffle and spice with some cheesy accents that bring formaggio di fossa to mind, mingled with savory notes and some spice; with time graphite shaving minerality also emerges. On the palate it's full, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by red currant acidity and some spice, and by tannins that are quite smooth and flow into a clean rather bitter finish with some fossa notes. Pleasant, and after taking a sip the fruit becomes more apparent on the nose; it's graceful but a bit reserved, with less acidity than the younger wines and I don't think this is just greater age at work, but rather development of winemaking technique as well. Very nice however, and impressive, a wine one can converse with.
90-91
The Next Morning, November 12, We Returned to Taste Chianti Rufina
The wines are in the order the vintage wines (2010) were poured in.
Azienda Agricola Frascole
Azienda Agricola Frascole Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010
Deep cherry ruby with white rim. The bouquet is rich, with fresh cherry fruit, brambles, dusky bitterness, graphite shavings, some violets, and black pepper spice; it's quite fresh with nice depth. On the palate it's bright, with fresh berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have some greenish accents and fairly rich brambly acidity that flows into a clean spicy bitter tannic finish. Freshness and finesse in a glass, and worth seeking out.
88-90
Azienda Agricola Frascole Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense and quote mineral, with spicy minerality supporting rather dusky cherry fruit that has slight sweetish jammy accents, and a degree of alcohol that also contributes sweetness. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright strawberry laced berry fruit supported by warm sour berry fruit acidity and tannins that are smooth, and flow into a clean fresh sour berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant in a traditional key, and though it is still coming together, especially on the nose, it will go places, and display considerable finesse when it has arrived.
88-90
Azienda Agricola Il Prato
Azienda Agricola Il Prato Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is dusky, with some bramble and moderate berry fruit mingled with some greenish accents, slight green leather spice, and with time the bramble gains in intensity. On the palate it's moderately intense, with moderate berry fruit that has some sweetish accents, perhaps related to alcohol, and flows into a fairly sweet bramble laced finish. It has an oddly dilute feel to it, and some of the fullness may be alcohol. I'd have liked more fruit.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Il Prato Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009
Deep black cherry with black reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with dusky graphite shaving bitterness and minerality more than fruit at present. On the palate it's light for a Riserva, with dusky moderately intense fairly savory berry fruit supported by tannins that have a warm splintery burr that flows into lasting savory warmth. I'd have liked more depth and verve.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Travignoli
Villa Travignoli Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is quite fresh, with violets mingled with dusky bitterness, some cherry fruit, slight jammy accents, and some wet paint. On the palate it's medium bodied and rather splintery, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by splintery tannins that flow into a fairly long warm splintery finish. It needs another year for the tannins to fold in, but is pleasant in a rather slender key, and made me think. I like that in a wine.
2 stars
Villa Travignoli Tegolaia Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy plum cherry fruit supported by some iodine and graphite shaving bitterness, also some wood smoke. On the palate it's ample with moderate fruit supported by minerality and some sour berry fruit acidity, flowing into a fairly quick finish that settles into splintery tannins. It's fairly direct, and gives an impression of trying hard but I found the fruit to be somewhat lacking; in its defense it is very young and still coming together; it may do interesting things with time because there is a certain finesse to it. We shall see.
2 stars
Azienda Vinicola Le Coste
Azienda Vinicola Le Coste Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with camphor and cherry fruit supported by some gunflint bitterness, some acidity, and minerality. Brooding, On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by splintery tannins that flow into a fairly quick finish. Direct, and up front.
1 star
Azienda Vinicola Le Coste Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009
Black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with spicy cherry fruit supported by minerality, some black pepper, a fair amount of alcohol, some spice, and greenish accents. On the palate it's moderately intense, with cherry fruit supported by strawberry acidity and tannins that are moderately intense, and flow into a clean slightly greenish strawberry finish. My initial impression was so-so, but it grew on me, and though it isn't long on complexity I found it enjoyable because of its freshness. Personal preference.
2 stars
Cantina Sociale VI.C.A.S
Montulico Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010
Cherry ruby with white rim. The bouquet is fresh, with prune cherry fruit supported by some metallic brambly accents and some spice. Wet tree bark too. On the palate it's medium bodied, with dusky bitter cherry fruit with sour cherry-red currant acidity, while the tannins are light and rather glancing. Pleasant in a lighter key, and a nice fresh food wine of the sort one can set out with the certainty that it won't fight the food; its acidity is enough for fried foods, and you may want a second bottle.
2 stars
Cantine F.lli Bellini
Cantine F.lli Bellini Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010
Deep cherry ruby with black rim. The bouquet is muted; swishing brings up some berry fruit and moderate spice, but it's clearly still coming together. On the palate it's pleasant, in a light key, with fairly bright berry fruit supported by greenish brambly acidity and splintery tannins that flow into a warm splintery tannic finish. Expect it to go quickly. A Food Wine.
2 stars
Cantine F.lli Bellini Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009
Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is dusky, with graphite shavings and iodine mingled with spice and a fair amount of alcohol, not much fruit. On the palate it's moderately intense with some cherry fruit supported by dusky sour cherry bitterness and a fair amount of alcohol, some sea salt, and tannins that are rather splintery. It's fairly direct, and I'd have liked a little more fruit to fill out the structure.
1 star
Casa Vinicola Dreolino
Casa Vinicola Dreolino Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is dusky with graphite shaving bitterness mingled with some cherry fruit and peppery spice. Displays some distance. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately bright cherry fruit supported by dusky tannins that have graphite shaving bitterness and also by some brambly acidity, and flows into a dusky finish. Pleasant in a rather brooding mineral key.
2 stars
Casa Vinicola Dreolino A Gino Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009
Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is dusky, with graphite shavings and some iodine supported by spice, sea salt and some berry fruit with a brambly underpinning. Scrappy. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards light, with cherry and forest berry fruit supported by warmth and some dusky acidity, also tannins that are a touch blocky. I would have expected a little more; in its defense it is quite young and will with time become rather ethereal; it is more about finesse than power.
1 star
Fattoria di Basciano
Fattoria di Basciano Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010
Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish accents, lactic acid, some red berry fruit and some spice. On the palate it's moderately intense, with some red berry fruit supported by tannins that have a slightly milky feel to them and moderate mineral acidity. It's still up on the air, needs time to come together and develop.
1 star
Fattoria di Basciano Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, and smoky, with quite a bit of sea salt, some balsamic warmth, and slight lathered horse; it's more rustic than I have found wines from this winery to be in the past. Not much fruit. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity that is also rather balsamic, and by tannins that are warm and splintery, and flow into a clean balsam laced splintery finish. It's frankly traditional, something I hadn't encountered in Basciano before, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars
Fattoria di Grignano
Fattoria di Grignano Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010
Lively cherry ruby with white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some greenish accents and slight berry fruit -- still coming together. On the palate it's bright, with lively brambly cherry fruit supported by strawberry and red currant acidity, some spice, and by tannins that are rather splintery, with some savory accents, and flows into a splintery tannic finish. Scrappy, pleasant in lively aggressive key Will go quickly if you like style
2 stars
Fattoria Il Capitano - Azienda Agricola Balbi
Fattoria Il Capitano Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some berry fruit, some cherries, spice, and graphite shavings. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by moderately intense sour raspberry acidity with strawberry overtones, while the tannins are fairly light and smooth, with hints green leather, and flow into a fairly long slightly greenish sour berry fruit finish.
2 stars
Fattoria Il Capitano Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009
Deep black cherry with black reflections paling in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with jammy cherry fruit supported bys some cedar and spice, and moderate sweetness that's also alcohol, with some underlying greenish accents. On the palate it's brighter than I expected, with lively brambly berry fruit supported by brambly mineral acidity and tannins that are smooth and glancing, with some greenish brambly accents. Pleasant in a traditional key, and displays a degree of finesse that will likely increase with time. It grew upon me.
2 stars
Fattoria Il Lago
Fattoria Il Lago Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010
Deep black almandine with black reflections cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with dusky berry fruit laced with graphite shaving bitterness, some spice, slight laundry soap, greenish notes, and hints sweetness. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderate berry fruit supported by leathery accents and some underbrush; the acidity is warm and mineral, and there is some spice, while the tannins are dusky with some bitterness and some underbrush to them that brings wet bark to mind. Finish fairly long. Will develop ethereally.
2 stars
Fattoria Il Lago Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009
Pale cherry with some orange in the rim; it's surprisingly light for a Riserva.. The bouquet I unusual, with paint thinner -- for want of a better descriptor -- mingled with cherry fruit. Odd. The palate is warm with greenish berry fruit that is supported by moderate acidity and tannins that become surprisingly green with candied accents. A fellow taster mutters about grape juice, and whatever one says, it's not what I expect from a Chianti Rufina Riserva; the aromas and the fruit are going in different directions.
No star
Fattoria Lavacchio
Fattoria Lavacchio Cedro Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010
Deep black cherry with black and white rim. The bouquet is moderately rich, with cherry fruit supported by spice and some minerality. On the palate it's fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by some greenish acidity and bouquet tannins that are fairly strong with a bright youthful burr; it's very young but has nice balance in a solid muscular key and will also age nicely for a number of years.
2 stars
Fattoria Lavacchio Cedro Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009
Deep black cherry with black reflections cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with berry fruit supported by a fair amount of cedar, nice depth and expression in a slightly dusky international key. On the palate it's full and oakier oaky, with berry fruit supported by considerable cedar and some spice that flows into a chocolate and cocoa laced finish. It's the oakiest of the wines presented, but with respect to past vintages shows some restraint, enough that the fruit emerges, and if you like the style, it will do interesting things in a frankly modern key with time. Give the oak a year or two to fold in, however.
2 stars
Marchesi Gondi - Tenuta Bossi
Marchesi Gondi San Giuliano Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by spice and some greenish brambles, slight leaf tobacco and some minerality. Elegant in traditional key. On the palate it's ample, with bright strawberry laced cherry fruit supported by dusky bitterness and mineral acidity, while the tannins are smooth and fairly rich flowing into a clean fruit laced finish. Quite pleasant and will drink very well.
2 stars
Marchesi Gondi Pian dei Sorbi Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009
Deep black cherry with black reflections cherry rim. The bouquet is elegant, with violets and red berry fruit that are surprisingly fresh for a Riserva, supported by spice and some delicate slightly mentholated acidity. Interesting and invites a second sniff. On the palate it's bright, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a fairly long warm finish with berry fruit underpinning. Quite pleasant in a traditional key, and will with time display considerable finesse and elegance -- it has the latter down already, though it will increase, and is working on the former.
88-90
Colognole
Colognole Riserva del Don Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009
Elegant deep slightly orange cherry with some almandine in rim. The bouquet is intense, with berry fruit supported by green leather and spice, and also by considerable bramble; it's quite elegant in an austere key. On the palate it's full and smooth with dusky sour cherry fruit supported by considerable bitterness and sour berry fruit acidity, and tannins that have a warm dusky burr with some cedar bitterness, and flow into considerable warmth. Very young but pleasant, and will do quite interesting things with time.
2 stars
Marchesi De'Frescobaldi
Marchesi De'Frescobaldi Nipozzano Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with mentholated cherry fruit supported by dusky spice and a fair amount of alcohol; it's quite young but elegant in a fruit driven key. On the palate it's bright, with rich cherry fruit supported by bright slightly splintery sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are warm and splintery and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish Quite pleasant, and though it needs another couple of years to come together, and will display considerable finesse when the various components have fully melded.
2 stars
Marchesi De'Frescobaldi Vigneto Montesodi Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim tending overtones orange. The bouquet is moderately intense, with berry fruit mingled with greenish spice and some hints of paint thinner, and also a dusky cedary underpinning. On the palate it's ample, with warm sour cherry fruit that has some greenish acidity and is supported by tannins with a greenish cedary overlay, and flow into a fairly long clean rather green finish with lasting warmth. It needs a couple of years to come together, and it will be worth waiting for, in a rather ingratiating key when it arrives. The style is fairly international, though it does also have the acidity and tannic structure typical of Rufina.
2 stars
Castello del Trebbio
Castello del Trebbio Lastricato Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with berry fruit supported by sea salt, sour berry fruit, and some rather cheeky warmth; it gives an impression of being in mid stride. On the palate it's fairly rich, with deft strawberry laced cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and a fair amount of warmth, while there is also alcohol that confers some sweetness, and flows into a long warm strawberry finish. It needs time, a couple of years at least, because it's still coming together now, and will be something to think about if you like the style, which is fairly traditional.
2 stars
Fattoria I Veroni
Fattoria I Veroni Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010
Pale cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is pleasant, with brambly berry fruit supported by spice and some cedar, and also by mentholated acidity; it's deft and rather graceful. On the palate it's fairly rich, with strawberry cherry fruit supported by mentholated acidity and tannins that have a warm splintery burr and flow into a clean bright slight greenish strawberry cherry finish. Bright, and pleasant, in an unassuming direct key.
1 star
Fattoria I Veroni Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009
Cherry almandine with black reflections and some almandine. The bouquet is fairly intense, and dusky, with berry fruit supported by leather, some spice, alcohol and slight iodine; the effect is brooding. On the palate it's bright, with lively fresh strawberry laced berry fruit supported by moderately intense acidity and by tannins that are smooth, and flow into a clean strawberry laced finish with some underlying bitterness. Pleasant, in a fairly traditional key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars
Podere il Pozzo
Podere il Pozzo Vigna Vecchia Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009
Deep black cherry with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is elegant, with floral accents mingled with vanilla and supported by ripe berry fruit and some peppery spice; nice depth and elegance in a fairly modern key. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by bright sour berry fruit acidity and slight sweetish jammy accents and slight greenish notes, while the tannins are warm and still quite young, with a blockiness that will fade with time as the wine ages and the tannins smooth. I'd give it 3-5 years and expect it to age well for at least 10 years, perhaps more.
2 stars
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