Wandering Puglia: Gioia del Colle DOC

My trip to Puglia, continued: It was late afternoon, and cold and windy by the time we arrived at the Distilleria Cassano in Gioia del Colle. Not to taste distillates -- the Cassano family ceased operations years ago and donated the structure, which is quite beautiful, to the town, which is now transforming it into an exhibition area -- but rather the wines of the Gioia del Colle Appellation, and more specifically Primitivo.

Why Primitivo? Because the varietal is said to have first been identified in Gioia del Colle, towards the end of the 1700s, by Francesco Indellicati, a parish priest who went into a vineyard, selected a vine whose grapes ripened early, calling it Primativo because of this characteristic, and planted cuttings it at Liponti, a hamlet in the township of Gioia del Colle.

The farmers working with the varietal quickly realized that in addition to ripening early, Primitivo starts its vegetative cycle much later than most other varietals. Considering Goia del Colle's location, in the heart of the Tavoliere delle Puglie (the high plains that form Puglia's backbone, which often suffer devastating late spring frosts), this characteristic was just as important as early ripening, as it meant that the vines were much less vulnerable than others. Primitivo rapidly spread throughout the highlands, becoming one of Puglia's most important grapes.

But what is Primitivo? Obviously, since Francesco Indellicati selected it from an extant vineyard, it had been growing there for a while, and some have gone so far as to suggest that its name, Primitivo, also refers to its being the original grape. This is of course an exaggeration, and now researchers from America (drawn to Primitivo because of its close resemblance to Zinfandel) and elsewhere have concluded that Primitivo (and Zinfandel) derive from an obscure Croatian grape called Crljenak Kaštelanski. Since Croatia boasts several close relatives to Crljenak Kaštelanski, whereas Puglia's Primitivo lacks close relatives, it is likely that someone, centuries ago, brought cuttings of Crljenak Kaštelanski to Puglia and planted them, discovering that they were much better suited to Puglia's climate and soils than they were to Croatia's.

And this brings us to the wines. As I said, Primitivo ripens early; the harvest is generally in early September, and the resultant wines tend to be powerful. Inky purple is a common color, while the fruit balance tends towards lush chewy ripe prune and dried prune, with underlying sweetness, and moderately intense smooth soft tannins. Acidities tend to be low, and one would expect this given the ripeness achieved by the grapes.

These are Puglian grapes that ripen under the fierce Puglian sun, and sugar contents -- and therefore alcohol levels -- tend to be high; 14-15% is quite normal, and those who aim for more concentration and greater ripeness can reach 18%. This in wines that are dry, and to be frank I found myself preferring the less alcoholic wines to the 18% crowd, which I found rather strident. Oak use varies from producer to producer; some use large wood and steel, and other small oak. I personally prefer steel and large oak because they have less impact upon both fruit and acidity. I find small oak to be more likely to overshadow the nuances of the grape, and to add polish that is really not necessary, especially if the grapes are harvested quite ripe, with lower initial acidities.

There is also something called Primitivo Dolce, which ferments to 18% alcohol, at which point the yeasts give up, but retains sufficient residual sugar to be semi-sweet to sweet. These can be quite nice, as sugar and (richer) fruit remain in play, balancing the alcohol. Sipping wines, something to be savored the way one might a Recioto or a Sagrantino di Montefalco Passito, and something to look into, if you like this style. These sweeter wines also have the capacity to age quite well, for a decade or more.

The Wines, Tasted on November 30, 2009

Azienda Agricola Fatalone
Fatalone Bianco Spinomarino Puglia IGT Greco
Brassy gold with brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, and quite mineral with some hints of gunflint and tart slightly sour citric acidity. On the palate it's bright, with lively lemony fruit supported by some minerality and gunflint bitterness that flow into a long warm bitter tart finish that becomes more savory in the finish. Pleasant, in a zesty key, and will drink well as an aperitif or with fish. If you like smoother more international wines it won't work as well for you, but I rather enjoyed it. Nice scrappy character.
2 stars

Fatalone Gioia del Colle DOC Primitivo 2005
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and brick rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with leather and wood smoke mingled with slight balsamic notes and some cherry fruit. A bit rustic, but pleasant in this key. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a warm spicy, almost petillant burr, and flow into a clean decidedly bitter finish that becomes savory as it fades. It's a bit rustic, but if you like the style it will work very well with succulent grilled meats.
2 stars

Vini Coppi
Coppi Siniscalco Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is muted at first swish, more swishing brings up balsamic notes and some wet leather, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly sweet cherry plum fruit supported by dusky acidity and tannins that are greenish and cedar laced, flowing into a rather green savory finish. It's a little tired, though not quite oxidized.
1 star

Cantine Lanzolla
Cantine Lanzolla Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2005
Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is fairly rich, with plum fruit supported by some cedar and a certain airiness that brings sweetness to mind. On the palate it's full, and sweet, with cherry plum fruit supported by smoky acidity and tannins that have an angry smoky burr, and flow into a bitter cedar laced finish. It's quite aggressive, but if you like the style, which is fairly rustic, will work very well with succulent roasts or stews.
2 stars

Tenuta Patruno Perniola
Battaglio Primitivo Rosso Puglia IGT 2007
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with quite a bit of cedar mingled with some cherry plum fruit and moderate spice. On the palate it's ample, and quite savory, with fruit that's overshadowed by oak to a considerable degree, said oak emerges as coffee laced with vanilla, and carries on at length. Too much oak on what was a good base, I think.
1 star

Bioagricola Marchesana Rosso dei Primati IGT 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with brick rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry fruit laced with balsam and wood smoke, with some cedar as well. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by bitter tannins that have a distinct smoky overlay and some acidity, and flow into a smoky finish. It's quite charged, and there is ample raw material, but it is to a degree masked by wood.
1 star

Bioagricola Marchesana Rosso dei Primati IGT 2005
Impenetrable pyrope with almandine in the rim. The bouquet is smoky and savory, with not much fruit. The palate is pleasant in a rather wild key, with strong savory minerality and cedar laced tannins that flow into a cedar laced finish with some hazelnut overtones. It's a touch over the top for me.
1 star

Cantine di Scj'o
Scj'o Primitivo IGT Puglia 2008
Black label with red name, 13.5% alcohol. Deep black almandine with black reflections and brick rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry fruit supported by wood smoke and berry fruit acidity. Nice depth. On the palate it's full, with rich red berry fruit supported by lively sour cherry acidity and smooth sweet tannins that do have slight cedary accents and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant, in a graceful rather cheeky key, and will drink well with succulent red meats or light stews, and also has the capacity to age nicely for a few years. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Scj'o Primitivo IGT Puglia 2008
Black label with white name, 14.5% alcohol. Impenetrable pyrope with purplish garnet rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with plum fruit laced with some greenish accents and hints of marzipan; it comes across as being charged. On the palate it's, well, flabby: there's ample soft rather sweet plum cherry fruit supported by tannins that have an angry smoky burr and flow into a smoky finish. Something odd happened and it is like a fat man who has slipped and is sitting in a puddle: Yes, it makes a splash, but something is off.
1 star

Cantine del Colle
Cantine del Colle Falco Grillaio Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is smoky, with a fair amount of alcohol and some warmth, and spice as well. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and quite savory, with quite a bit of cedar as well, which overshadows most everything.

Cantine del Colle Gioa del Colle Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with considerable alcohol and moderate fruit supported by some minerality and wet leaves, and some cedar. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by quite a bit of alcoholic warmth and with tannins that have a deft cedary underpinning. Pleasant in a slightly more rustic key, and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Giuliani Raffaele
Giuliani Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2004
Impenetrable pyrope with brick rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry plum fruit supported by dusky spice and some graphite shavings; it has a brooding quality to it that I rather enjoy, and also hints of licorice root. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by smoky tannins and wood smoke acidity that flow into a long balsamic finish with wood smoke and hints of animal hair blended into the fruit. Quite elegant, and will work very wellw ith succulent meats.
2 stars

Giuliani 1922 Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2007
This is a sweet Pirmitivo; it's deep black almandine with black reflections and black cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with sweet cherry plum fruit supported by greenish accents and a fair amount of alcohol. Nice balance, and invites repeated sniffs; with more sniffs some vegetal accents and green peppers also emerge. On the palate it's full, and sweet, with jammy cherry plum fruit supported by fairly bright acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly quick finish that combines sweetness with savory accents. Pleasant, though I found it to be a little short; it's a wine that will drink very well with cheeses or that one could simply sip with friends.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Cannito
Cannito Scudo Sannita Gioia del Colle DOC Rosso 2007
This is a blend of Pimitivo, Negroamaro and Montepulciano; it's poured pyrope ink with brick rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit laced with cumin and spice, and some cedar as well. Nice balance and harmonious. On the palate it's full, with rather dry berry fruit supported by smoky acidity and cedar laced tannins that flow into a clean cedary finish that becomes decidedly savory as the fruit fades. Pleasant if you like the style, which is a bit rustic, and fresh; it will drink well with succulent meats or light stews.
2 stars

Cannito Drùmon Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with black brick rim. The bouquet is alcoholic with a fair amount of wood smoke and a degree of cedar as well, mingled with wet leaves and some balsam. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright minerality but not much fruit supported by smoky acidity and tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. It comes across as trying very hard, but falls short. If it tried less hard I think it would be more successful.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Plantamura
Plantamura Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2007
Deep black lam with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with wood smoke and leafy underbrush mingled with plum fruit and some spice. Pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by spicy acidity and tannins that have a smooth sweet underpinning and flow into a clean fresh finish with savory underpinning. Pleasant, and will drink quite well with foods. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Plantamura Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC Riserva 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and brick rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar and alcohol mingled with wood smoke and slight menthol. It's not as fresh as the base. On the palate it's ample, and hot, with soft sweet plum berry fruit supported by warmth and tannins that have a warm cedar-laced burr and flow into a warm sweet plum berry fruit finish with underlying balsamic notes. I found it more tired than the 2007, and more settled too. It tries hard to be a big wine, and this is not a good thing.
1 star

Cantine Guttarolo
Guttarolo Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with violet rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is intriguing, with leathery plum cherry fruit supported by wood smoke and hints of honeycomb mingled with warmth and spice. Pleasant, and invites another sniff. On the palate it's full, and quite sweet, with powerful plum cherry fruit supported by warmth and sweet dusky tannins that flow into a clean sweet fruit laced peppery finish, and though it may sound strange overtones works well in a charged, very ripe key. If you like the style, you will enjoy it, and I found it growing upon me. A quite successful extreme ripening, and a very interesting wine.
86-8**

Pietraventosa
Pietraventosa Allegoria Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with brick rim that has some almandine. The bouquet is smoky, with cherry plum fruit and a fair amount of alcohol mingled with mentholated spice and some wet green leather. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and moderate berry fruit acidity; it's harmonious and quite pleasant to drink, though given its power I would pair it with foods rather than drink it by itself. What foods? A hearty stew, or a succulent roast.
2 stars

Pietraventosa Ossimoro Murgia IGT 2005
This is a blend of Primitivo and Aglianico. It's impenetrable pyrope with brick rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with wood smoke and plum fruit supported by some menthol and hints of cumin seed, and also some hazelnut, with some underbrush as well. On the palate it's ample, with rich bright warm sour berry fruit supported by balsamic acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm rather balsamic finish with leathery accents. It0s interesting, and pleasant in a key far far removed from Merlot; it will drink well with roasts or stews and is worth seeking out if you like this style.
2 stars

Cantine Ferri Purpurius Primitivo Puglia IGT 2008
Tank sample. Impenetrable pyrope with purple rim. The bouquet is pleasant for a tank sample, with delicate prune fruit laced with floral accents. Pleasant, and also sweet, with a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's full and quite sweet -- almost brings a recioto to mind in terms of sweetness, and with prune fruit to provide backing. It has yet to develop, and we shall see. If it continues as is, it's going to be off the chart, and very particular. Good too, and worth seeking out if you like the style.

Polvanera
Polvanera 16 Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2005
This is strong, 16%, because that's what the sunlight brings. The wine is deep pyrope ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit laced with spice and some mentholated accents, and hints of green leather as well. Also sweetness that is at least in part alcohol. On the palate it's ample and ricvh, with powerful prune cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a warm savory overlay and flow into a long warm finish; there is also some balsamic acidity to provide direction, and it flows into a long warm slightly balsamic finish. It's a massive wine, and as such particular -- a whole swath of people will find it too much -- but if you like the style you will enjoy it very much, and it will do interesting things as it ages too.
2 stars

Polvanera 17 Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2006
This is even stronger, 16.5%, and is from a different vineyard that gets even more sun. The wine is impenetrable pyrope with purple rim. The bouquet is powerful, with deft prune fruit supported by hints of menthol and spice, and a fair amount of alcohol as well, with underlying jammy accents. Quite harmonious, and interesting to sniff. Quite a bit to say. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful prune cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have some balsamic overtones and flow into a warm cherry balsamic finish with lasting warmth and cedar laced tannic underpinning. Quite pleasant, in a massive and over the top key; if you like the style you will enjoy it, but -- as was the case with 16 -- you'll have to like charged sweet alcoholic wines to like it.
2 stars


Chiaromonte
Chiaromonte Muro Sant'Angelo Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with wood smoke and alcohol mingled with slight minerality and wet leather, and, if one concentrates, some prune. Interesting. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by moderate balsamic acidity and by cedar laced tannins that flow into lasting warmth. It comes across as trying too hard, and I found myself wishing it had more depth to the fruit, which is rather angry and, thanks to the tannins, hot.
1 star

Chiaromonte Primitovo Gioia del Colle DOC Riserva 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with black garnet rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with prune fruit laced with cumin and cedar, and supported by wood smoke and some leathery accents, with quite a bit of nose tingling acidity and alcohol. Alcohol of the mind-bending variety; the wine is 18% and dry. On the palate it's quite charged, and unbalanced, with moderate fruit that is overshadowed by angry cedary tannins and tremendous warmth that lasts and lasts. It's like something out of a circus sideshow: interesting, perhaps, but in a way that brings a shudder and is not pleasant to drink. At least for me; I found it to be too much.
1 star

Winding down, thanks again to the fine folks at Radici for organizing our trip, and the Comune of Gioia del Colle and the Gioia del Colle DOC Consozio for putting together the tasting, which I very much enjoyed, and learned much from.