A Quick Look at Carpenè Malvolti

Carpenè Malvolti is one of the largest producers of Prosecco, and when I stop in a supermarket to pick up a sparkling bottle I often emerge with their basic Prosecco di Conegliano Extra Dry, which goes down nicely and is nicely priced. But they make many other wines as well, and have been introducing impressive new wines at the rate of one per year for a while now. Last year it was Kerner, and this year it's Viognier, but we'll get to them presently. First, the Prosecco:

Carpenè Malvolti Cuvée Brut Prosecco di Conegliano DOC 2007
Pale brassy white with fine perlage that's quite intense. The bouquet is clean and bright, with lively green apple and pleasant savory accents. On the palate it's full and bright, with lively crisp apple fruit that flows into a tart green apple finish. Quite approachable, and will drink well as an aperitif or with foods -- Indeed, an Italian might say it's a tutto pasto, suited for the entire meal.
2 stars

Carpenè Malvolti Prosecco di Conegliano DOC Extra Dry 2007
Pale brassy white with fine perlage. This is a bit sweeter than the brut, and is their most common Prosecco. Its bouquet is fairly rich, with green apple mingled with some delicious apple, and some sugars, with hints of minerality. On the palate it's full, relatively sweet, ample, and quite soft, flowing into a tart apple finish. It's more direct and more approachable at a general level than the Prosecco Brut, though wine lovers will likely prefer the Brut. I did, at least. It's a question of stylistic preference.
1 star

Carpenè Malvolti Cuvée Oro Prosecco di Conegliano Dry 2007
Pale brassy white with fine perlage. The bouquet is deft, with green apples mingled with delicious apples, some minerality, and apple skin sweetness. On the palate it's full and rich, with clean fairly sweet green apple fruit supported by sparkle and moderate acidity that that works with the sweetness. The overall impression it gives is quite welcoming, and it will work very well as an aperitif, especially for those who are unused to brut wines. In short, a nice, approachable and versatile wine that will appeal to a wide variety of drinkers, though not, perhaps, to the strictly Champagne/Franciacorta set.
2 stars

Carpenè Malvolti Promotico Brut 2007
This is from the Abruzzo, and is made from an autochthonous varietal known as pecorino because sheep like it. It's pale brassy gold with intense fine perlage, and has a fresh mineral bouquet with some gunflint that gains in intensity with swishing. On the palate it's fairly full, with bright mineral-laced tart fruit supported by dry minerality and sparkle, while there is also an undercurrent of sweetness -- it's not bone-dry -- and flows into a clean bitter finish. Pleasant, and will work nicely as an aperitif or with foods; more of the cheese and egg sort than fish, I'd say, because though there is quite enough acidity to stand up to fattier foods there's an undercurrent of softness as well.
2 stars

Carpenè Malvolti Kerner 2007
Pale brassy yellow with fine intense perlage. Elegant bouquet with pleasing floral accents mingled with citrus and honeysuckle with underlying minerality. Elegant, and quite inviting. On the palate full and rich with clean honeydew melon fruit that gains direction from deft citric acidity and slight bitterness that flows into a fairly long savory finish. Quite nice, with excellent depth and richness, an wine that will work very well as an aperitif or with foods. Drawbacks? The bottle will likely go too fast.
90-91

Carpenè Malvolti Voignier 2007
Pale brassy white with fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with gunflint minerality laced with some citric notes and savory accents On the palate it's rich and bracing, with lively citric fruit supported by clean citric acidity and nice sparkle that flow into a clean tart finish with peppery accents from sparkle. It's quick to write, but quite harmonious, in a sassier key than the Kerner: If the former is a beautiful woman in an evening gown, here she's dressed to go hiking eager to set out.
88-90

Carpenè Malvolti Rosé 2007
This is a blend of 85% Pinot Noir and 15% Raboso. It's pale pink with fine intense perlage, and has a clean bouquet with fairly bright acidity supported by red berry fruit and spice, with underlying bitterness. On the palate it's bright, with clean minerality and some cherry and forest berry fruit that is more hint than fact, with pleasing fullness from sparkle and minerality that flows into a clean mineral finish. Very much a Rosé brut, and will drink nicely as an aperitif or with delicate meat dishes. Fish, too. In short, versatile.
2 stars.

Bottom Line: Carpenè Malvolti is doing some very interesting things. Want to know more? Their Site.

Wines From the Gruppo Italiano Vini

Gruppo Italiano Vini is Italy's largest wine producer, and has followed an interesting path to get where it is: Rather than concentrate in one area, the people behind it decided to work throughout Italy, and rather than start from scratch they purchased established wineries, many with long histories, including Nino Negri in the Valtellina, Melini and Macchiavelli in Chianti, and Fontana Candida in the Colli Albani. Recently they have, like many others, turned their attention to the South, purchasing Terra degli Svevi in Basilicata, Castello Monaci in Puglia, and Rapitalà in Sicily.

When Roberta Speronello contacted me to ask if I'd be interested in tasting some of their wines, I of course replied yes, and asked that she send me things I knew I wasn't familiar with, from their newer southern holdings. She kindly did, and here we are:

 

Tenuta Rapitalà Piano Maltese Sicilia IGT Bianco 2007

Lot 08022

This is a blend of Grillo, Catarratto and "International Varietals" from vineyards at elevations of about 400 meters. It's pale brassy gold with brassy reflections, and has a very fresh, rather enticing nose with loquat (nespolo) and honeysuckle supported by savory heather that gains depth from hints of gunflint and peppery spice that sends a tingle up the nose. Refreshing. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rich loquat and white plum fruit supported by clean tart Regina Claudia acidity, and by gunflint bitterness that leaves a peppery smoky trail, and flows into a long spicy bitter finish. It's powerful and fresh, in an up-front almost voluptuous sort of way, and will drink quite well as an aperitif with flavorful antipasti, and will also work well with white meats -- either fish or animal -- while its slight sweetness will help it work well with oriental dishes, including somewhat more heavily spiced Thai or Chinese. In short, fun, and versatile, a nice wine for the summer months.

2 stars

Santi Melibéo Lugana DOC 2007

Lot 8-073

The one non-southern wine of the group, this is from the southern shores of Lake Garda. It's pale pale brassy gold with a slight reddish cast. The bouquet is moderately intense, with heather mingled with spice and some minerality, and underlying alcohol and Delicious apple. Fresh, in a reserved sort of way. On the palate it's medium bodied, and softer than I might have expected from the nose, with warm loquat fruit supported by loquat and slightly green apricot acidity, which flows into a clean fairly tart finish. It's quite approachable in a pleasingly languid key, and will drink nicely as an aperitif or with fish dishes, including pasta with or risotto seasoned with fish sauces; I might also be tempted to serve it with meat or fish from the more delicate Chinese cuisines, for example Cantonese. Expect the bottle to go quickly.

2 stars

Castello Monaci is in Southern Puglia:

Castello Monaci Mé Dos Malvasia Nera Salento IGT 2006

Lot 7.128

Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, and young, with rich cherry plum (red plums, not prunes) fruit supported by hints of sage and spice that add depth; the overall effect is direct, but also welcoming. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by minerality more than acidity, and by pronounced India ink bitterness that flows into a clean bitter finish, while the tannins are fairly smooth and also bitter. Direct, a wine that doesn't demand center stage, but rather supports what it's served with, and will drink very well with simple grilled or pan-sautéed meats -- an elegant burger with home-cut French fries or grilled eggplant, for example. Expect the bottle to go quickly, and you may want another handy.

1 star

Castello Monaci Maru Negroamaro Salento IGT 2006

Lot 7.330

Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim that has faint hints of almandine. The bouquet is fresh, and vinous, with pleasing hints of sandalwood and greenish spice mingled with red berry fruit. Nice depth in a youthful key, and inviting. On the palate it's medium bodied, with pleasingly rich red berry fruit supported by moderate slightly balsamic acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that have some warm leather to them too, and flow into a clean savory finish with balsamic overtones. It's young, far-removed from the flavor registry one finds in Cabernets and Merlots, and I found myself much enjoying it; it will drink well with hearty red sauced pasta dishes, and also with simple grilled meats or light stews, and is the sort of thing you will need more than a bottle of if 4 of you sit down to dinner, because you will suddenly realize it's gone. It has the easy grace of a monello, the naughty boy who gets away with things because of his charm.

2 stars

Castello Monaci Artas Primitivo Salento IGT 2005

Lot 7.219

Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rich cherry fruit supported by vinous accents and some jammy vegetal spice that gains depth from hints of cedar and some savory notes. Nice balance in a fresh, youthful key. On the palate it's medium bodied, and rather languid, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by mineral acidity and smooth tannins that have pronounced India ink and graphite shaving bitterness to them, and flow into a clean lasting bitter plum cherry finish. Poised, and quite approachable in a fairly international key; it will drink well with flavorful roasts or stews, for example something made with lamb, and though I am certain it will age nicely for a number of years, I'd be tempted to drink it now to enjoy its freshness. If you like well-fleshed, graceful -- there's nothing settled about it -- fruit driven wines, you will enjoy it. 

88-90

Castello Monaci Aiace Salice Salentino Riserva DOC 2003

Lot 6.340

This is an 80-20 blend of Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera, and is deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, and vinous, with rich slightly jammy forest berry fruit that gains depth from some vegetal accents and warmth, and also reveals warm balsamic notes and hints of hardwood ash with swishing. It's charged, and gives an impression of summer heat, but is also pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich rather black currant/blackberry-plum fruit supported by moderate balsamic acidity and by bitter tannins that flow into a warm bitter finish. It's pleasant, but displays a slight emptiness in the middle palate that suggests that the grapes didn't ripen as well as they might have in a less extreme vintage -- though it's clearly a step above both of the 2006 Castello Monaci wines, their fruit is richer because they're from a better vintage. This said, while I wouldn't be tempted to drink it far from the table it will drink very well with succulent meats, in particular a thick porterhouse steak grilled rare or a roast leg of lamb. In short, with the proper foods it will be hard to beat.

2 stars

Terre degli Svevi is in Basilicata:

Terre Degli Svevi Serpara Aglianico del Vulture DOC 2001

Lot 06-95

The back label says that it's non-filtered; it's almost impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with ruby rim that displays slight hints of almandine. The bouquet is moderately intense, with vinous notes mingled with red berry fruit and prunes, some underbrush, and underlying spice as well; it comes across as somehow subdued, and gives an impression of needing more time (something quite possible in an Aglianico del Vulture, as they are very long-lived). On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by moderately intense graphite bitterness and moderate acidity, while the tannins are ample and smooth, and flow into a clean bitter finish. To be honest I had expected more -- Aglianico del Vulture has a certain mystique about it, of the sort one also associates with Barolo or Amarone, and one expects these wines to make the earth move. This was good, but (like many Baroli and Amaroni, alas), didn't make the earth move, at least not for me, and I wouldn't drink it far from the table. I would on the other hand, be happy to serve it with a steak, or stewed boar, and my dinner companions -- who aren't as critical about wines as I am -- would be absolutely delighted. It will also age well for many more years, and if I had several bottles I would set a couple aside until at least 2015.

2 stars

More about the Gruppo Italiano Vini: Their Site 

Commendator G. B. Burlotto: Welcome Alberto! And Fine Wines From Verduno

My last stop at Vintialy each year is to visit Marina Burlotto and her son Fabio, who continue to pour long after others have begin to disassemble their booths. This year was no exception, though I couldn't help but note that he was distracted, and staring off into space between wines.

"I'm going to be a father," he replied when I asked what was on his mind, and at that point I understood his distraction very well. Son Alberto arrived a couple days ago; his mom Federica and he are doing fine, and what better way (for me) to celebrate than publish my notes for their wines?

Commendator G. B. Burlotto Te Elatis Vino da Tavola Rosato
None of the appellations that cover the Langhe contemplate rosé wines, and therefore this is a table wine, and as such has no vintage. But it's a 2007. Lively pinkish salmon with brilliant reflections. Rich bouquet with intense greenish accents mingled with clean red berry fruit and sour forest berry fruit acidity, almost cranberry, and this is Pelaverga at work (the blend is 40 Nebbiolo, 45 Pelaverga, and 15 Barbera). Pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's fresh, with rich raspberry fruit supported by clean slightly greenish acidity that flows into a clean bright berry fruit finish with cleansing acidity. A perfect picnic wine that will drink well with all sorts of summer dishes and also be nice in a carefree winter moment too.
2 stars

Commendator G. B. Burlotto Dives Langhe DOC 2006
Lot DL107
This is a Sauvignon, and is brassy gold with green reflections. The bouquet is bright, with powerful, well -- casting PC aside -- sweaty redheaded woman laced with floral accents and crushed herbs, especially sage, with underlying honeydew melon. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's ample and bright, with greenish citric fruit that has an underpinning of bright gooseberry and flows into a clean bitter gooseberry finish. Extremely varietal, and if you like Sauvignon you will like it, but you have to like Sauvignon. It will work well as an aperitif, or with white meats or fish, including richly flavored grilled fish. It will also age nicely for several years, though its present freshness is nice. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Commendator G. B. Burlotto Pelaverga DOC 2006
Lot VP 207
Lively bright cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, with sandalwood and berry fruit laced with spice and herbal accents (from the grapes), supported by pleasing spice. Quite nice, and considerable elegance. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright sandalwood-laced berry fruit supported by clean brambly tannins that flow into a clean fairly long sandalwood laced berry fruit finish. Pleasant, and will go very well with dishes that can be difficult to pair, for example a bell pepper flan or finianziera, the classic Piemontese organ meat stew. For that matter, it would also be good with a Tuscan Cibreo, which is made with chicken combs and whatnot. Worth seeking out if you like intensely aromatic and slightly exotic wines, and you can expect the bottle to go quickly.
2 stars

Commendator G. B. Burlotto Dolcetto D'Alba DOC 2006
Lot DA107
Deep cherry ruby with violet rim. Bright bouquet with lively cherry and sour red currant fruit with a greenish underpinning supported by clean, zesty bitter almonds. Invigorating. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful red berry fruit supported by clean bright acidity and by zesty tannins that have a warm, deft bitter burr and flow into a fairly long bitter berry fruit finish laced with underbrush. A versatile food wine that will go quickly with grilled meats and light stews, and you will want a second bottle. Worth seeking out.
88-90

Commendator G. B. Burlotto Barbera D'Alba 2006
Lot BA 107
Deep cherry ruby with cherry rim. Bright bouquet with clean zesty raspberry and forest berry fruit fruit supported by raspberry and red currant acidity. Quite fresh. On the palate it's bright, with lively red berry fruit supported by clean tart acidity and by smooth slightly greenish tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning and lasting acidity. It's quite pleasant, what I look for in a Barbera (a bright, lively wine unencumbered by wood), and will drink very well with foods. A second bottle may come in handy.
2 stars

Commendator G. B. Burlotto Aves Barbera D'Alba 2006
Lot BAA107
Deep black almandine ruby with blackish reflections and rim. The bouquet is powerful, with red berry fruit supported by cedar and warm citric spice with some minerality as well. Quite fresh, On the palate it's full and quite soft -- an effect of small oak barrels -- with ample red berry fruit supported by smooth cedar-laced tannins that gradually give way to lasting warmth, a testament from the natural acidity of the grape. It's a good oaked Barbera with much more acidity and life than many oaked Barbere display, but I found myself missing the carefree zestiness of the basic wine. A wine writer picking nits; it will drink very well with succulent grilled meats or hearty roasts, and will also work well with flavorful stews, including game such as venison or boar. If you want to age it, it will hold well 3-5 years.
88-90

Commendator G. B. Burlotto Mores Langhe DOC 2005
Lot ML107
Lively ruby with ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright berry fruit acidity laced with cherry and berry fruit, and some hints of Rosa Canina and green leather -- in other words, both Barbera and Nebbiolo make their presence felt. On the palate it's bright, with rich red berry fruit supported by bright sour raspberry acidity, while the tannins are clean and very young, with splintery accents. It's pleasant, but needs another year or two to get its bearings, by which point it will be quite elegant. In short, a promising preteen who needs time, and will age well for another 5-8 years. Drink it with a succulent roast or stew.
2 stars

Commendator G. B. Burlotto Langhe Nebbiolo 2006
Lot LN107
Lively cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is deft, and bright, with lively cherry acidity and clean raspberry fruit with floral accents. On the palate it's full, and bright, with lively greenish berry fruit supported by clean bright sour fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long clean finish. Pleasant, though very young, an will drink well now with succulent red meats -- e.g. a grilled steak. It will also age nicely for 5-8 years, gaining considerable grace with time. A tomboy now, whose knees and elbows are more evident than they will be with time.
2 stars

Commendator G. B. Burlotto Langhe Freisa DOC 2005
Lot LG248
Freisa is, according to genetic studies, a close relative of Nebbiolo. It's also one of the wines best loved by Piemontesi. It's deep almandine with cherry reflections and almandine rim, and has a fresh bouquet with clean floral accents mingled with raspberry fruit and acidity, and some fresh sandalwood greenness, with underlying alcohol. Quite pleasant. On the palate it's fresh, bright, and light, with lively berry fruit supported by brisk brambly acidity and by tannins that are clean and fresh, and have a slight greenish burr that leads into a clean fresh finish. A pleasant picnic wine that is also well suited to quickly cooked meats, light pasta dishes, and so on. Drink it now
2 stars

Commendator G. B. Burlotto Barolo 2004
Lot BR107
Almandine with cherry ruby reflections. The bouquet is fresh and young, with red berry fruit supported by deft acidity and some goudron, with clean savory accents as well, along with green leather and fairly bright acidity. Enticing in youth. On the palate it's full and rich, with elegant red berry fruit supported by clean slightly blocky tannins and bright sour berry fruit acidity that flows into a clean rich berry fruit finish. Pleasant though woefully young, and it will drink well with rich red meats, but needs time, at least a year. If you have the patience to give it more -- 10, 15, even -- you will be richly rewarded.
2 stars

Commendator G. B. Burlotto Barolo Acclivi 2004
Lot BPA107
Deep almandine ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with clean bright berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity laced with green leather and hints of mint. It's pleasant, with greater depth than the Barolo Base, but is also something of a work in progress. On the palate it's full and smooth, with powerful cherry fruit supported by clean slightly greenish cherry acidity and by clean deft tannins that are ample and have a slight youthful burr to them. Quite nice, but is obviously at the beginning of a long journey, and though one could drink it now with a steak or roast (lamb comes to mind), those with the patience to wait will be richly rewarded.
88-90

Commendator G. B. Burlotto Barolo Vigneto Monvigliero 2004
Lot BRM107
Lively almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is rich, with powerful berry fruit supported by rosa canina laced with green leather, tar, and some bitter coffee grounds. Beautiful depth and a great lot going on in a young Nebbiolo. Impressive. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful berry fruit supported by clean mineral acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long clean finish. Quick to write, but there's tremendous harmony and depth, and though one could drink it now with a roast, to do so would be a waste, because it will do most impressive things over the coming years -- expect it to age well through at least 2030. In short, a wine to set aside for a special occasion sometime.
88-90

Commendator G. B. Burlotto Barolo Vigneto Cannubi 2004
Lot BRM 107
Deep almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with delicate rosa canina laced with red berry fruit and green leather and spice. Very young but all the pieces are in place, and the harmony is considerable. On the palate it's full, with rich deft red berry fruit supported by bright mineral acidity and clean sweet tannins that flow into a long clean slightly greenish tannic finish. Rare harmony and finesse for a wine so young, and as was the case for the 2004 Monvigliero, it's a wine that deserves to be set aside for years if not decades.
90-92

Bottom Line: Beautiful wines in a decidedly traditional key.

And Again, Benvenuto Alberto!

Commendator Burlotto's Site, which also has a section dedicated to La Locanda Dell'Orso Bevitore (The Inn of the Drinking Bear), their Agritursmo.