Benvenuto Brunello 2001!

Benvenuto Brunello 2001!

This year's Benvenuto Brunello, held in Montalcino's Fortezza, featured the 2001 Brunello, the 2004 Rosso di Montalcino, a few 2000 Brunello Riserva, Moscadello, and a variety of Sant'Antimo DOC wines, both red and white and from several vintages. As has been the case in recent presentations, there were a few more wineries than there were last year -- we're up to 151 -- and since I didn't feel I could do justice to all of the wines in the time allotted, I devoted a bit more than a day to tasting Brunello d'Annata, the 2001, a mixture of producers I was already familiar with and producers I knew nothing about, and then tasted some Rosso di Montalcino too, to get a feel for what the 2004 vintage might have in store.

The 2001 vintage is, simply put, very good; it's head and shoulders above the 2000 vintage, displaying great depth and elegance, with rich, ripe, but not overripe fruit, and smooth sweet tannins that have a steely heart under the youthful exuberance they now display. It's also a surprisingly ready vintage; by comparison with the 1999 vintage, which displayed an angry immaturity at release, the 2001 is smoother and richer, and will be readier to drink in the short term, while gaining considerable grace and elegance as it ages. In other words, it's a more versatile vintage than some, and though you could it with the express intent of laying it down, you could also buy it for a special occasion in the more immediate future.

In terms of overall stylistic observations, I continue to see a decrease in the so-called "new style" that emphasizes concentration with respect to finesse and involves a fair amount of oak. To be honest, the 2001 vintage didn't require either additional concentration or shoring up from oak -- what came from the vineyards was quite capable of standing alone -- and I therefore hesitate to call the observation a trend, though a number of producers I talked to told me that they are working towards greater finesse. Next year's Brunello, what there is of it from a cold wet vintage, will give a much better indication of whether or not the pendulum has begun to swing back.

I was pleasantly impressed by the 2004 Rosso di Montalcino: Despite its coming on the heels of two very difficult years for Brunello, which likely tempted many producers to divert as much as they could to their flagship wine, I found an easy elegance that reveals considerable attention on the part of the producers. In other words, it may be a lesser sibling, but it's not an afterthought. In terms of accompaniments, most are suited to rich pasta dishes, thick soups, and light meats, while some have the acidity necessary to accompany fried foods, and others are substantial enough for more flavorful meats. There's much to enjoy.

The wines, in the order in which I tasted the Brunelli, on February 24 and 25 2006:

Franco Pacenti
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577 849277

Franco Pacenti Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Delicate almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is warm and vinous with slightly balsamic red berry fruit supported by fairly rich acidity and some sea salt, with metallic overtones. On the palate it's full, and rather soft, with moderate red berry fruit supported by ample smooth tannins that carry the wine, and lead into an oddly metallic finish. I'd have hoped for more.
(1 star)

Padelletti Guido
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.padelletti.it

Padelletti Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with delicate red berry fruit, slightly sour cherries, supported by dried flowers and some sea salt, while moderate acidity provides backbone. On the palate it's full, and graceful in a fairly traditional key, with delicate slightly sour cherry fruit directed by lemony acidity and supported by smooth sweet Sangiovese tannins that flow into a fairly long, slightly bitter berry fruit finish. Elegant, and if you like the more traditional style you will like it very much. Drink it with steaks or roasts, and though one could drink it now it will reward those with the patience to wait 3-5 years.
(2 stars)

Padelletti Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is muted, with some floral notes and hints of berry fruit, but it brings to mind a house with the shutters closed. On the palate it's full, and soft, with moderately rich plum laced fruit supported by ample soft tannins that feel older than they should be given the vintage. I'd have expected more.
(1 star)

Palagetto
53020 Castelnuovo Abate - SI
http://www.palagetto.it

Il Palagetto Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Slightly brownish almandine with brown reflections and almandine rim that is again brown; in terms of color it looks older than many of the other wines poured. The bouquet is powerful, with rich dried flowers laced with raw beef, green leather, and some alcohol; it's quite elegant in a surprisingly mature key considering that it has just been released. On the palate it's full, with slightly dusky cherry fruit that has green leather overtones and is supported by ample smooth tannins that have dusty bitter notes with some acidity, and flow into a long slightly greenish sour cherry finish. As I said, it's surprisingly mature, and I would have liked a little more acidity to perk it up, though one cannot say it's settled. If you like very traditional Brunello you will like this very much, and it will do interesting things with time, likely becoming quite lacy. However, if you prefer a more modern style it's not for you.
(2 stars)

Palagetto Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Impenetrable black almandine with ruby rim -- poured ink. The bouquet is moderately intense, with red berry fruit mingling with spice and slightly greenish accents. On the palate it's full, and rich, with pleasingly bright cherry plum fruit supported by deft acidity and by ample tannins start smooth, but then reveal a youthful splintery burr, and that flow into a fairly long finish. It's pleasant, and will work quite well with succulent red meats, but needs another year to get its bearings. Give it the time and it will reward you.
(2 stars)

Palazzo
53024 Montalcino - SI
Telefono 0577 848479

Palazzo Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is intense, with red berry fruit mingled with cedar, nutmeg, and menthol, and hints of candle wax that are unusual but complement everything else. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry fruit supported by ample smooth sweet tannins that have some smooth bitter undertones, and flow into a long clean slightly bitter berry fruit finish. Quite elegant in a middle-of-the-road key, and will drink well with roasts or hearty stews. One could drink it now, but it will also age well for a decade or more.
(2 stars)

Palazzo Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is closed, and repeated swishing merely underlines how shut the shutters are, though hints of cherry plum fruit do manage overtones emerge. On the palate it's full, and quite smooth, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet Sangiovese tannins that have the slightest of burrs, and flow into a fairly quick sour cherry finish. Pleasant, in a youthful zesty key, and will drink quite nicely with rich pasta dishes, succulent meats off the grill, or light stews in a few months' time, when the nose has come together. Or even with fried meats and vegetables.
(2 stars)

Pecci Celestino
53024 Montalcino-SI
Tel. 0577 847046

Pecci Celestino Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is slightly drier than some, with deft red berry fruit supported by some slightly balsamic acidity and some cedar that gives an impression of being from large wood. On the palate it's full, and fairly rich, though the structure is carried more by tannins than fruit; the fruit is moderately intense slightly flat red berry, while the tannins are ample and smooth, and leave a dusty trail over the tongue. It feels tired, and I'd have liked greater richness of fruit.
(1 star)

Pian dell'Orino
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.piandellorino.it

Pian Dell'Orino Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep almandine ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit mingled with balsamic notes and sea salt, and some green leather. On the palate it's full, and fairly soft, with fairly bright red berry fruit that gains direction from bright acidity, and is supported by clean smooth tannins that flow into a fairly long bright berry fruit finish. It's deft, in an understated way, and though it won't stand out at a tasting it will drink quite well with succulent red meats. You'll like it if you like the fairly traditional style.
(2 stars)

Pian delle Vigne
53024 Montalcino - Si
http://www.antinori.it/

Pian Delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with balsamic red berry fruit supported by warmth and by some acidity, with an underpinning of sea salt and alcohol. On the palate it's full, with moderate rather flat cherry and forest berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long tannic finish with some bitter cocoa notes. I'd have liked more brightness to the fruit and greater acidity; as it is the direction comes primarily from the tannins, and though they can do the job, acidity does it better.
(1 star)

Pietrafocaia
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577 848578

Pietrafocaia Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is unusual, with a mixture of spice and watermelon rind at first swish, but not much else, and the overall impression is flat. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit that gains definition from moderate acidity, and is supported by smooth ample tannins that lay a dusty trail over the tongue. I'd have liked more intensity in the nose, which has an oddly absent feel to it, and a touch more acidity to hold it up in the palate. It will in any case drink well with succulent red meats, particularly rich grilled red meats.
(1 star)

Pietroso
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577 848573

Pietroso Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with slightly sour cherry plum fruit supported by spice and by quite a bit of alcohol, with underbrush and green leather adding complexity. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with soft cherry plum fruit that gains direction from deft plum acidity and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long fruit finish that gains direction from acidity. It's pleasant, in a large, slightly lax key, and will drink well with succulent red meats -- I'd go more with a roast or something off the grill than a stew here.
(1 star)

Poggio Antico
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.poggioantico.com/

Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rich red berry fruit supported by berry fruit jam and hints of polished leather, with underlying peppery spice, pencil shavings, and some citric acidity. Quite nice, and a lot going on. On the palate it's rich, with powerful red berry fruit that gains direction from pleasing bitter acidity, while the tannins are rich, and still a little young; though they aren't splintery they have yet to fold completely into the wine. In other words, it will improve markedly with time, though it is already quite nice and will drink well with succulent red meats now. Or reward those with patience.
90

Poggio Antico Altero Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with rich red berry fruit supported by cool mentholated spice and some sea salt, with underlying hardwood ash and hints of green leather, and underbrush as well. On the palate it's full, and smooth, with fairly intense red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by ample smooth tannins that have bitter overtones and flow into a fairly long red berry fruit finish with some bitter undertones. It's elegant, but a touch overpolished, and I found it to be a little too soft; I'd have liked greater acidity to give it direction and strength. This said, it is quite elegant -- simply a little softer than is my personal preference -- and will drink well with red meats, in particular roasts.
(2 stars)

Poggio Antico Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with mentholated red berry fruit supported by deft spice and some cedar; youth in a glass and pleasing too. On the palate it's full, and much softer than I would have expected, with plum fruit that pushes powerfully off from the tongue, leaving what can only be described as a void, while ample sweet plum tannins try to support but are so soft they really cannot, and it flows into a clean mineral acidic finish. The effect is frankly disconcerting; because of its softness I would drink it with drier white meats.
(1 star)

Poggio di Sotto
53020 Castelnuovo Abate - SI
Tel. 0577 835502

Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Almandine with dark brown reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is delicate, with fairly acidic, slightly balsamic red berry fruit that has some menthol overtones, and is supported by green leather and dry underbrush. Quite traditional. On the palate it's bright and rich, with powerful cherry fruit supported by deft cherry acidity, and by clean sweet tannins that flow into a long cherry laced finish. Beautiful in a traditional key, with the fruit carrying the show while acidity keeps it lively and interesting; even those who prefer smoother softer wines will find something to like here, and it will drink very well now with succulent red meats, though it also has the capacity to age well for a decade or more. Well worth seeking out.
92

Poggio di Sotto Rosso di Montalcino 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright slightly candied red berry fruit supported by menthol and underlying sweetness, which is likely the vintage. On the palate it's full and quite soft, with rich fairly sweet cherry fruit that's supported by lively cherry acidity, and by ample sweet soft tannins that flow into a long sweet cherry laced finish. It is a child of the vintage, with the size and softness extreme heat brings, but within this context is quite deft, and very much alive; drink it with drier red or white meats served with rich gravies. An impressive reply to adversity.
(2 stars)

Poggio Il Castellare
53020 Castelnuovo Abate - SI
http://www.baroncini.it

Poggio il Castellare Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright cherry and forest berry fruit supported by some lemony acidity and by pleasing spice from grapes, with alcohol providing a feeling of overall warmth. On the palate it's full, with bright slightly chalky cherry plum fruit supported by clean smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long fruit laced finish; it's pleasant, and nicely balanced, though I might have liked just a touch more acidity to raise it up. I found it a bit more direct than I might have expected. This said, it will drink quite well with succulent red meats, and will age nicely for a decade or more.
(2 stars)

Poggio il Castellare Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar and slight greenish notes mingling with red berry fruit and peppery spice. A fair amount going on in a youthful package. On the palate it's full, with fairly bright cherry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity and by ample smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long sour cherry finish. Pleasant, in a fairly zesty key, and will drink well with hearty pasta sauces, or with succulent red meats off the grill. Expect it to go quickly.
(2 stars)

Poggio San Polo
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.poggiosanpolo.com

Poggio San Polo Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is pleasant, with rich slightly jammy cherry and forest berry fruit supported by clean peppery spice and a fair amount of alcohol, with underlying polished leather and some dried plum sweetness. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry plum fruit that has some berry fruit jammy overtones, and is supported by clean sweet tannins that have a faint greenish splintery burr, and gain direction from some plum acidity; the finish is fairly long, with a pleasing balance of fruit and acidity with some bitter undertones. Quite elegant, in a full middle-of-the-road key, and will drink well with succulent roasts or stews now, though it also has the wherewithal to age nicely for many years.
(2 stars)

Poggio San Polo Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Impenetrable black cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and rather mentholated, with slightly candied berry fruit and a fair amount of peppery spice; it's still quite young and the fruit hasn't really emerged yet. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards full, with fairly rich cedar laced mentholated cherry plum fruit supported by ample smooth tannins that have some cocoa overtones, and flow into a warm sour berry fruit finish. It's big, and a bit disjointed yet, but will clean up nicely in a fairly modern key over the next year or so, and drink well with succulent meats off the grill or light stews.
(2 stars)

Quercecchio
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.quercecchio.it/

Quercecchio Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Fairly deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is slightly cooked, with penetrating spice and a fair amount of alcohol mingling with some jammy berry fruit and menthol overtones with underlying cedar. The overall effect is oddly flat; the fruit is under wraps, as it were. On the palate it's full, with fairly bright cherry fruit that gains direction from bright sour cherry acidity, and is supported by slightly chalky tannins that flow into a bright cherry finish with some tannic underpinning. It's pleasant, but up front; what you see is what's there, and I would have liked a little more depth to it. This said, it will drink well with succulent red meats, including fattier cuts such as leg of lamb, and has the wherewithal to age many years, during which time it may do quite interesting things.
(1 star)

Quercecchio Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Cherry almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with some hardwood ash mingled with balsamic accents, and nutmeg spice mingled with quite a bit of alcohol and intense acidity that rises up to tingle the nose; there isn't much fruit under this. On the palate it's full, and soft, with ample red berry fruit supported by smooth soft tannins that flow into a fairly long slightly greenish finish. It's pleasant enough in a larger, softer key on the palate, though I would give it time for the nose to come together -- a year perhaps. Given its tannic softness, I would drink it with slightly drier red meats, for example roast beef that is well done, as opposed to rare.
(1 star)

Salicutti
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.poderesalicutti.it

Salicutti Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Slightly brownish almandine ruby with dark brown reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is delicate, with leather laced red berry fruit and dried flowers mingled with spice and some raw beef. Quite traditional in feel. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense slightly bitter red berry fruit that has savory acidic overtones and is supported by clean slightly brambly tannins that flow into a fairly long finish that reveals some bitter brambly overtones. It's a touch dry -- perhaps a little too long in large wood -- but pleasant in a traditional key, and will drink well with grilled meats or roasts; it also has the capacity to age for a time, and I would perhaps set it aside for a few years, because it could do interesting things.
(1 star)

San Filippo
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.sanfilippomontalcino.com

San Filippo Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fresher than many, and also riper, with bright jammy berry fruit supported by warmth and some menthol, while there is also some underlying cedar and hints of pencil shavings. On the palate it's full, and surprisingly soft, with ample cherry plum fruit that gains direction from some bright plum acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long bright finish with lively acidity. It's fairly direct, and I'd have liked a little more depth to the fruit, which has a slightly overripe feel to it, though it's not cooked. It will in any case drink well with grilled red meats, for example a Porterhouse cut, or with succulent roasts.
(1 star)

Sesta di Sopra
53020 Castelnuovo Abate - SI
http://www.sestadisopra.it/

Sesta di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Almandine ruby with brownish reflections and pale almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant in a distinctly traditional key, with sour berry fruit mingling with dried flowers, raw beef, and polished saddle leather, with underbrush and hints of horse lather as well. Quite a lot going on. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich red berry fruit that gains direction from mineral acidity that isn't quite as deft as I'd have expected, supported by tannins that are fairly smooth, and have considerable graphite bitterness that carries through into a long slightly bitter sour finish. Fairly traditional, and pleasant, though not as exciting on the palate as I expected form the nose; it will drink well with grilled meats or stews.
(2 stars)

Siro Pacenti
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577 848662

Siro Pacenti Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Lively ruby with black reflections; it looks quite young for a four-year-old wine. And it smells young too; the bouquet's quite bright, with violets and floral accents mingled with bright black currant and forest berry fruit supported by slightly citric berry fruit jam. Youth in a glass, and most unusual for a Brunello. On the palate it's equally young, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit that gains direction from lively acidity, and is supported by clean youthful tannins that have slight cedary overtones. Quite atypical for a Brunello, and if I hadn't known I was tasting Brunello I might have guessed that it was a substantial Rosso di Montalcino, because it feels that young. It is, however, nice -- in an absolutely atypical key -- and will drink very well with grilled red meats or stews.
(2 stars)

Siro Pacenti Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, and voluptuous, with rich cherry and forest berry fruit supported by cherry blossoms and hints of violets, with some vinous warmth and delicate cut flowers. Fresh youth in a glass, and most graceful. On the palate it's full, with powerful cherry fruit that gains direction from lively berry fruit acidity, and is supported by ample smooth sweet tannins that have some slightly greenish accents, and flow into a long clean berry fruit finish. Quite nice in a fruit driven lively youthful key, and will drink very well with rich pasta dishes or succulent meats off the grill. Ready now, though it will do interesting things over the next 5 years. Worth seeking out.
(2 stars)

Solaria
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577 849426

Solaria Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and brownish almandine rim. The bouquet is airy, with green leather and some hints of banana skin mingled with spice and sea salt, and underlying dried plums and nutmeg-laced menthol. Mature. On the palate it's full, and fairly rich, with clean fairly rich cherry forest berry fruit supported by dusky tannins with bitter graphite shaving overtones; it's have liked greater richness and brightness to the fruit, which is a bit settled. Drink it with red meats.
(1 star)

Talenti
53020 S. Angelo In Colle - SI
http://www.talentimontalcino.it

Talenti Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with forest berry fruit mingling with graphite shavings and alcohol, and powerful underlying peppery spice that has some metallic overtones. On the palate it's full, and fairly rich, with bright red berry fruit, primarily cherry though there is also black currant, which gains direction from moderate mineral acidity, and is supported by tannins that have some cedary overtones, and flow into a fairly long slightly bitter finish. One hates to say it, but it doesn't grab me; I'd have liked greater depth and richness than I found. It will in any case drink well with red meats.
(1 star)

Tenimenti Angelini - Val di Suga
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.tenimentiangelini.it

Tenimenti Angelini Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with smoky red berry fruit, in particular cherry and black currant, supported by lively peppery spice, and with some underlying dried plums. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry fruit that's a touch drier than I might have expected, supported by some mineral acidity and by tannins that have a slight cedary burr. It's a bit dry, and this may be attributable to too much time in large wood; it will in any case drink well with succulent red meats.
(1 star)

Tenuta Caparzo
53028 Torrenieri - SI
http://www.caparzo.com/

Tenuta Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with spicy nutmeg and cherry dried plum fruit mingled with spice and some berry fruit jam, and quite a bit of alcoholic warmth that rises up to tickle the nose. On the palate it's full and quite smooth, with fairly rich cherry fruit that gains direction from deft sour cherry acidity, and is supported by ample sweet tannins that flow into a long tannic finish with some acidic overtones. The nose needs another year or two to develop, but it will drink well even now with succulent red meats, and could do interesting things with time.
(2 stars)

Tenuta Greppone Mazzi
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.ruffino.it

Tenuta Greppone Mazzi Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit wilder than some, with spice and balsamic notes mingling with dried leather and barnyard tang, with underlying sea salt and some dried fruit. Traditional. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry fruit that has some dried plum accents, which gains direction from lively cherry acidity, and is supported by ample smooth tannins that have a slight Sangiovese burr, and flow into a fairly long clean berry fruit finish with spicy accents. Pleasant, in a distinctly traditional key, and will drink well with hearty red meats, especially succulent things off the grill; though one could drink it already it will likely reward those with the patience to wait a few years. Worth seeking out if you like this style.
(2 stars)

Tenuta La Fuga
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.tenutefolonari.com

Tenuta La Fuga Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly mature, with green leather and leaf tobacco mingled with some balsamic acidity and warm sour cherry fruit with some underlying dried plum. Elegant. On the palate it's full, and rich, with fairly powerful slightly chalky cherry fruit that gains direction from brisk cherry acidity, and is supported by tannins that have considerable steel, and also have a slight youthful burr that flows into a clean bright berry fruit finish. Elegant, and rich; it will drink quite nicely now with succulent red meats, especially more demanding cuts such as leg of lamb, or stews along the lines of stewed boar or venison. It will also age nicely for a decade or more. Worth seeking out.
(2 stars)

Tenuta Oliveto
53020 Castelnuovo Abate - SI
Tel. 0577 807170

Tenuta Oliveto Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim tending towards brown. The bouquet is unusual, with a mixture of berry fruit and spice that brings coca cola to mind at first sniff; further sniffing brings up more of the same, with a fair amount of sweetness as well. Unusual. On the palate it's full, with soft fairly sweet cherry and forest berry fruit supported by moderate slightly pickled cherry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long clean berry fruit finish. It's a bit unusual, in a very soft distinctly modern overripe key; if you like very forward fruit driven wines you will perhaps like it, though if you prefer more traditional, even austere wines, it won't work for you. Drink it with drier red meats, or perhaps even roasted white meats.
(1 star)

Uccelliera
53020 Castelnuovo Abate - SI
http://www.uccelliera-montalcino.it

Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine with black reflections and a slightly brownish almandine rim. The bouquet is spicy, with balsamic notes and some warm acidity mingling with chopped raw game and some dried plum fruit with underlying nutmeg and sea salt. Fairly mature. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense rather bitter red berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and ample smooth tannins; I'd have liked grater richness to the fruit, which is a bit flat, and has some metallic overtones.
(2 stars)

Vasco Sassetti
53020 Castelnuovo Abate - SI
Tel. 0577 835619

Vasco Sassetti Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a wild, with chopped raw game mingling with leather and some leaf tobacco, supported by alcohol and underbrush. Mature, in a traditional key. On the palate it's full, with ample slightly sour cherry fruit that gains direction from pleasing mineral acidity, and is supported by ample smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long clean berry fruit finish that gains definition from brambly bitterness. Elegant in a traditional key, and will drink quite nicely with succulent red meats now, though I might be tempted to set it aside for a few years. Worth seeking out if you like the style.
88-90

Vasco Sassetti Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with black cherry rim -- poured ink. The bouquet is powerful, and frankly unusual; there's a rush of bright rather vegetal red berry fruit supported by brisk sour plum acidity and underlying sweetness with cedary overtones. On the palate it's full, rich, and fairly sweet, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by lively acidity and by ample cedar laced tannins that flow into a fairly long rather sour slightly greenish finish. It's still quite young, and the tannins have a greenish burr to them that will settle with time; as it stands it's rather brash, and you should consider it if you like this rather up front style.
(1 star)

Abbadia Ardenga
33028 Torrenieri - SI
http://www.abbadiardengapoggio.it/

Abbadia Ardenga Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and slightly brownish rim. The bouquet is unusual, with flowers -- a mixture of dried and violets -- mingled with nutmeg spice and a fair amount of sea salt, with underlying dried plums, all supported by moderate balsamic acidity. On the palate it's full, and bright, with lively cherry fruit that gains direction from brisk cherry acidity, and is supported by ample smooth tannins that lead into a fairly long bright cherry finish that again is supported by acidity and gains depth from some brambly bitterness. Pleasant; and will drink quite well with succulent red meats or stews; it also has the capacity to age well for a number of years. I wasn't familiar with the winery, but am happy to have discovered them.
(2 stars)

Abbadia Ardenga Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is quite fresh, with violets and ripe plums supported by deft spice from grapes; it's elegant though slightly overripe. On the palate it's ample, with fairly intense slightly bitter plum fruit that draws up short, as if it stepped on the brakes, to reveal an aggressive tannic underpinning with smoky bitter notes. It's like looking at someone who has tripped and is falling down; given the nose the body was a surprise.
(1 star)

Agostina Pieri
53020 Castelnuovo Abate -SI
Tel. 0577 375785

Agostina Pieri Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Fairly deep almandine with brownish reflections and almandine brown rim. The bouquet is muted, and at first swish reveals unusual mentholated notes that bring toothpaste to mind; further swishing brings up oak leaves, and some dried red berry fruit with slight metallic overtones. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry and forest berry fruit that gains direction from moderately intense, bright berry fruit acidity, and is supported by clean slightly splintery tannins that flow into a long fairly acidic finish that with time reveals the mint again. It's pleasant enough, but also fairly direct, and to be honest I found the hints of menthol, which are likely form wood, to be distracting.
(1 star)

Altesino
53028 Torrenieri-SI
http://www.altesino.it

Altesino Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep brown almandine with brownish reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly wild, with balsam and sea salt mingling with cedar and a fair amount of warmth, hints of nutmeg spice and some dried plums. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich sour berry fruit, a mixture of plums and cherries, supported by tannins that have distinct slightly greenish balsamic overtones and flow into a long warm balsamic finish with some cherry notes. I'd have liked a little more richness of fruit -- it's a touch dried -- but it is pleasant, in a distinctly traditional key; if you prefer more modern style, smoother softer wines it won't work for you, but if you like the traditional bite it will work nicely with grilled meats or roasts.
(2 stars)

Altesino Rosso di Montalcino 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is delicate, with pleasing red berry fruit supported by deft mentholated acidity and some underlying spice. On the palate it's full, and quite soft, with ample plum cherry fruit that does gain definition from some sour notes, and flows into a fairly long red berry fruit finish with underlying slightly splintery tannins. It's a nice expression of a difficult vintage, though I found it somewhat empty with regards to fruit after the initial attack; the tannins step in but they can't quite cover.
(1 star)

Argiano
53020 S. Angelo in Colle - SI
http://www.argiano.net

Argiano Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep slightly brownish almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, in a distinctly mature key, with polished leather mingling with leaf tobacco and some raw beef, with underlying spicy balsamic notes. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's full, with bright cherry plum fruit that gains direction from deft plum acidity, and is supported by ample sweet tannins that flow into a long slightly peppery finish that gains direction from bright citric acidity. It's still quite young, but will drink well with succulent red meats now, and promises to do very interesting things in the future; I would give it another year for the tannins to settle, and expect it to age well for a decade or more.
(2 stars)

Argiano Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, and vinous, with pleasing tart red berry fruit supported by pleasant slightly greenish spice, peppery notes, and youthful floral accents; there's a fair amount going on. On the palate it's full and rich, with lively cherry fruit that gains direction from some sour berry fruit acidity, and is supported by ample smooth tannins. It's fairly direct, but pleasant, and will drink well with rich pasta dishes, or with red meats off the grill. Expect it to go quickly.
(2 stars)

Banfi
53020 S. Angelo in Colle - SI
http://www.banfi.com/

Banfi Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine with slightly brownish reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with spice and iodine mingled with some menthol and fairly bright red berry fruit, and underlying cedar. On the palate it's full, and fairly rich, with bright slightly sour red berry fruit supported by brisk acidity, and by ample smooth tannins that flow into a fairly long bright sour berry fruit finish with some savory slightly balsamic bitter overtones. It's pleasant, in a middle of the road key, and will drink well with succulent red meats or stews; it also has the wherewithal to age nicely for at least 5 years and likely may more.
(2 stars)

Banfi Poggio alle Mura Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with elegant berry fruit, a mixture of cherries and forest berry fruit mingled with cedar and some spice, and underlying savory notes that give depth. On the palate it's full, with moderately rich cherry fruit supported by some bitter oak leaf accents and slight sour notes, rather than acidity per se, and by clean cedar-laced tannins that flow into a fairly long rather bitter finish that again brings oak leaves to mind. It's good, but to be honest I would have expected more; the fruit is a little flatter and drier than I expected from the nose, especially going into the finish. Drink it with succulent red meats.
(2 stars)

Barbi
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.fattoriadeibarbi.it/

Barbi Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted at first swish, though more swishing brings up brandied plums mingled with graphite shavings and a fair amount of alcohol, with underlying savory spice, iodine, hardwood ash, and dried plums. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense, fairly acidic cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a warm slightly green burr to them, and flow into a fairly quick finish. It's rather tired, and I might have expected more.
(1 star)

Baricci
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577 848109

Baricci Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Slightly brownish almandine ruby with brown reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up brandied berry fruit mingled with iodine, hardwood ash, graphite shavings, and metallic overtones. On the palate it's richer than one might have expected from the nose, though not huge, with fairly delicate rather sour red berry fruit supported by warm sour plum acidity and by smooth tannins that do have a slight splintery burr, and flow into a fairly long sour berry fruit finish. It's fairly direct, and a touch rustic in feel; drink it with succulent red meats.
(1 star)

Camigliano
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.camigliano.it/

Camigliano Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly mature, with a mixture of oak leaves, leaf tobacco, and polished leather overshadowed by iodine and bitterness. On the palate it's full, and fairly rich, with slightly candied cherry and forest berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bitter oak-laced finish. I'd have liked greater richness and depth in the fruit, which has a slightly overripe feel to it.
(1 star)

Campogiovanni
53020 S. Angelo in Colle - SI
http://www.agricolasanfelice.it/

Campogiovanni Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and slightly brownish almandine rim. The bouquet is mature, with leaf tobacco melding with green leather and some savory hardwood ash; with more swishing slight balsam and brandied cherries and plums also emerge strongly. On the palate it's full, and quite bright in a rather rustic key, with lively cherry plum fruit that gains direction from balsamic acidity and is supported by ample slightly greenish tannins that flow into a long balsamic fruit and tannic finish. If you like the style, it will work well with grilled or roasted meats, but you have to like the balsamic notes it displays on the palate.
(1 star)

Canalicchio di Sopra
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.canalicchiodisopra.com

Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly delicate, with cedar mingling with jammy plum fruit, and some hardwood ash and iodine as well. On the palate it's flat, with moderately bright, moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by splintery tannins that flow into a fairly quick bitter tannic finish. It's direct, and has a tired fell to it.
(1 star)

Capanna
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577 848298

Capanna Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is shut tight; swishing brings up some alcohol, with hints of oak leaves and brandied fruit, and underlying smoky cedar, but it remains rather muted. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense slightly balsamic berry fruit that has a tired feel to it, and flows into a distinctly balsamic finish. I found myself wanting more, somehow; both in terms of depth and of deftness of fruit.
(1 star)

Capanne Ricci
53020 S. Angelo in Colle - SI
Tel. 0564 902063

Capanne Ricci Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with polished leather mingled with leaf tobacco and spice, with underlying dried plums and berry fruit jam. A fair amount going on. On the palate it's full, and rich, with bright youthful cherry fruit that gains direction from lively red currant acidity, and is supported by ample sweet tannins that flow into a long slightly sour berry fruit finish with bitter tannic underpinning. It's quite young yet, but displays a degree of grace in a middle-of-the-road key, and will work nicely with succulent red meats. I might set it aside for a few years, because it has a feeling of being in mid-stride now.
(2 stars)

Capanne Ricci Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Deep black pyrope ruby with black reflections and black cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is bright, and concentrated, with unusual candied fruit accents that bring marzipan to mind, and underlying citric acidity. Considerable power, and it is not yet focused. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit that has mentholated overtones, and gains direction from bright berry fruit acidity, while there are fairly sweet tannins to provide support through a fairly long finish. Pleasant, in a slightly wild direct key, and it will drink well with succulent grilled meats, or even fried meats, though I'd give it until next year to get its feet under it.
(1 star)

Casanova di Neri
53028 Torrenieri - SI
http://www.casanovadineri.com

Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with a mixture of red berry fruit and a fair amount of cedar, supported by a fair amount of alcohol and airy spice. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright forest berry fruit that gains direction from moderate acidity, and is supported by ample sweet tannins that have evident cedar notes, and flow into a fairly long bitter finish with some cocoa overtones. It's quite young, in a fairly rich international style, and though good I would have liked a little more acidity to keep the fruit in line. As it stands I fear that as the tannins smooth with time the wine may fade, and I would therefore drink it relatively sooner -- by 2010 -- rather than age it at length.
(2 stars)

Casanova di Neri Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Dark black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is shut tight; nobody home. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by bright mineral acidity, and by bitter tannins that have a greenish edge to them. It's a bit thin, and I'd have liked greater richness to the fruit, which is at present badly overshadowed by the aggressive youth of the tannins. In short, it's more a work in progress than a finished wine, and needs time, but I would have liked greater richness of fruit in any case.
(1 star)

Casanuova delle Cerbaie
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.casanuovadellecerbaie.com/

Casanuova delle Cerbaie Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Fairly deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with mentholated berry fruit jam mingled with cedar, peppery spice, and underlying ripe red berries; it's refreshing in a decidedly modern key. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful red berry fruit -- a mix of cherries and some red currant acidity -- supported by clean smooth tannins that lead into a fairly long bright berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant in a modern key, and if you like this style you will like it very much; drink it with succulent red meats or hearty stews now, or expect it to age well for a decade or more.
88-90

Casanuova delle Cerbaie Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and black cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit supported by cedar laced spice and some vegetal notes, mingled with berry fruit acidity. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards full, with fairly bright cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a warm splintery youthful burr, and flow into a fairly long sour berry fruit finish. Pleasant in a scrappy fairly traditional key, and will drink well with succulent meat based pasta dishes, hearty legume based soups, or fattier meats off the grill.
(2 stars)

Casisano Colombaio
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.brunello.org/

Casisano Colombaio Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is penetrating, with a mixture of brandied fruit and a fair amount of spice, with savory overtones that gains some in fruit, but also a fair amount of bitter iodine with further swishing. On the palate it's fairly full, with slightly dry red berry fruit that gains definition from mineral acidity, and is supported by ample slightly dry tannins that flow into a rather sour finish. I'd have preferred greater depth and richness to the fruit, which may have suffered from overmuch wood.
(1 star)

Castelgiocondo
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.frescobaldi.it/

Castelgiocondo Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and black cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, and fruit driven, with powerful cherry and black currant fruit supported by some hardwood ash and underlying savory sea salt with a strong cedar underpinning. On the palate it's full, rich, and quite smooth, with ample cherry plum fruit that gains direction from some sour plum acidity, and is supported by clean sweet tannins that lead into a fairly long plum laced tannic finish. It's surprisingly soft for a Brunello, almost delicate, and worth seeking out if you prefer this softer style of wine. Drink it with drier red meats or with white meats served with rich gravies.
(2 stars)

Castelgiocondo Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, and soft, with red berry fruit, a mixture of cherries and black currants, with slight cedar laced spice and some underlying acidity. Quite modern. On the palate it's full and quite soft, with cherry plum fruit laced with black currants, and supported by sour blackberry acidity, while the tannins are quite smooth and quite soft, and it all flows into a clean fairly tart finish. It's bigger and softer than many Rossi, and if you like this style you will like it; drink it with succulent, not too fatty meats of the grill, or perhaps a light stew.
(2 stars)

Castello Romitorio
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.castelloromitorio.com

Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Fairly deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is chemical, with India ink and iodine in quantity mingled with polished leather, hardwood ash and nose tingling acidity. On the palate it's ample and soft, with full fairly sweet cherry and forest berry fruit supported by ample sweet soft tannins that flow into a fairly warm fruit laced finish that also has brandied plum overtones. It's pleasant enough in a middle of the road key though I found the fruit a touch light -- there is in any case deft acidity -- and would have liked greater depth. It will, however, age nicely, and could do interesting things in the future. I found it growing upon me with repeated sips.
(2 stars)

Castiglion del Bosco
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.castigliondelbosco.it

Castiglion del Bosco Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rather pungent, with an initial rush of balsamic acidity mingled with pencil shavings, iodine, and greenish cedar; with more swishing some fruit emerges, but not much. On the palate it's full, and soft, with ample plum fruit that gains some direction from mineral acidity, and is supported by ample slightly splintery tannins that lead into a fairly long plum-laced tannic finish. It's a touch overripe, and I found it a little thin; the tannins are more wood than fruit derived, and display a dry splinteriness that may or may not fade with time.
(1 star)

Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona
53020 Castelnuovo Abate - SI
http://www.ciaccipiccolomini.com/

Ciacci Piccolomini D'Aragona Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and brownish almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with powerful jammy cherry and forest berry fruit supported by greenish cedar and warm peppery spice. Nice balance. On the palate it's full, with bright cherry and black currant fruit that gains direction from brisk black currant acidity and support from lively, zesty tannins that have a sweet peppery burr, and flow into a fairly long finish with berry fruit sweetness balanced by vanilla bitterness. It's quite young, in a zesty key, and brings a tomboy to mind somehow -- sunny vitality, and all elbows and knees; with time it will fill out, but it would already go well with succulent red meats, including fattier cuts such as leg of lamb or a crown roast. Quite nice if you like this fairly modern style.
(2 stars)

Ciacci Piccolomini D'Aragona Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with red berry fruit supported by delicate spice and some floral accents, with underlying bright berry fruit acidity. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by warm tart cherry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long berry fruit finish. By comparison with many of the other Rossi it's rounder and more controlled, though it doesn't have the depth of a Brunello. Pleasing in any case, and will drink quite nicely with a roast or stew. Worth seeking out, and will also hold nicely for 3-5 years at least.
(2 stars)

Col d'Orcia
53020 S. Angelo in Colle - SI
www.coldorcia.it

Col D'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is slightly funky, with balsam and barnyard tang mingled with some sea salt and underbrush, and underlying hardwood ash; with more swishing the funk gives way to more mentholated notes, while there is a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by defter red berry fruit acidity than I might have expected from the nose, and by clean sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long bright finish. To be frank, it's a bit behind on the nose -- the palate is brighter and more interesting -- and I would give it another year to settle and develop, and at said time drink it with a succulent roast or stew.
(2 stars)

Coldisole
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577 355789

Coldisole Rosso di Montalcino 2004
2003 Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is delicate, with surprisingly mature delicately spiced green leather mingling with youthful violets and some red berry fruit. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's full, and languid, with fairly rich slightly leathery red berry fruit that gains direction from deft berry fruit acidity, and is supported by ample smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long warm finish. Pleasant in a distinctly traditional key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. I would drink it with in a year or two, because it is already fairly soft, and will settle with time.
(2 stars)

Collosorbo
53020 Castelnuovo Abate - SI
http://www.collosorbo.com/

Collosorbo Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Delicate almandine with black reflections and slightly yellowish almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with a leasing mixture of green leather, leaf tobacco, spice, and some dried flowers mingled with a fair amount of acidity and some slightly dried red berry fruit, with underlying vinous warmth. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's full, with delicate slightly leathery cherry fruit supported by brisk mineral acidity and by full smooth tannins that are still young, and lay down delicate peppery burr that continues into a warm berry fruit finish. It's quite elegant in a traditional key, and will work very well with succulent red meats or hearty stews now, though it will also richly reward those blessed with the patience to wait a few years. Well worth seeking out, even if you prefer the more modern style.
88-90

Corte Pavone
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.loacker.net/

Corte Pavone Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is intense, with pronounced greenish cedar mingled with balsamic acidity and some bright berry fruit acidity, with underlying pencil shavings and spice. Quite oaky, but a deft rendition of oak. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry and plum fruit that gains some direction from fairly sweet plum acidity, and is supported by ample smooth sweet tannins that have slight cedar overtones. It's very modern in style, with rich ripe fruit, and if you like wines that have a pronounced oak component you will like it very much. If you instead prefer a more austere traditional style you might want to pass it by. In any case, it is quite young, and will develop nicely in years to come.
(2 stars)

Corte Pavone Vino da Tavola Rosso
This is an experiment: A French physician who also makes wine developed a glass stopper based on those for reagent bottles, using a thin gasket to provide a seal and came to an agreement with ALCOA, which is now marketing it under the name Vino-Lok (http://www.vino-lok.de/). The concept is interesting, and ecological both because it doesn't consume our dwindling supply of cork, and because the glass stoppers are much more biodegradable than the synthetic corks that are now true cork's major alternative. These glass stoppers are being used by the Frenchman, by a quite a number of German and Austrian wineries, and are being tried in Australia too. In Italy a few wineries have expressed interest, in particular Loacker, which has bottled some of its 2001 Brunello with them instead of corks -- doing so required downgrading the wine to Vino Da Tavola since the DOCG requires true cork stoppers, but the Consorzio is watching the experiment with considerable interest.

And well they might:
The wine is lively black almandine ruby with cherry ruby rim, and has a powerful, elegant bouquet, with a pleasing balance of cedar and peppery spice from wood, and rich cherry and forest berry fruit with a fair amount of red currant acidity; by comparison with the normally corked Brunello it is much fresher, and fruitier as well -- though there is a clear imprint of oak, said oak is nowhere near as pronounced as it is in Corte Pavone's 2001 Brunello. On the palate the wine is full, and quite rich, with powerful cherry and forest berry fruit supported by clean bright sour cherry acidity and by tannins that are quite smooth, and provide structure without getting in the way or distracting; the finish is long and clean, with powerful bright berry fruit that gradually fades. Quite nice, and much fresher than the traditionally corked Brunello; I liked it very much, and especially liked the way the fruit comes through. If I were a producer, I would certainly try, and perhaps adopt these stoppers, because they do an excellent job of preserving the freshness of the wine. There's not much point in scoring a test, but if someone had set a glass in front of me I'd have said 88-90.

Corte Pavone Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Deep pigeon blood ruby with violet on the rim. The bouquet is shut tight, perhaps bottle shock; swishing bring sup barest violets, while all else remains hidden. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful fairly sweet cherry plum fruit that gains direction from sweet plum acidity, while the support comes from ample smooth tannins that lead into a long plum laced finish. Quite elegant in a forward fruit driven key, and if you like this smooth, rather opulent style, you will like it very much.
(2 stars)

Donatella Cinelli Colombini
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.cinellicolombini.it/

Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Impenetrable black almandine with black almandine rim. The bouquet is quite ripe, with mentholated bright red berry fruit that gains direction from berry fruit acidity and is supported by clean airy spice. Modern in key, pleasant in its power, and still very young. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit that gains direction from peppery acidity that's bitterer than I might have liked, and is supported by ample smooth tannins that again display fairly pronounced peppery bitter components that are from oak. It's still working on coming together, and though not quite a work in progress isn't really complete yet either; it needs another year for everything to meld, at which point it will be pleasant in a middle of the road key.
(2 stars)

Donatella Cinelli Colombini Prime Donne Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with slightly sour red berry fruit supported by cedar and vinous warmth, and some nutmeg spice. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful red berry fruit -- cherries with some red currant acidity to perk them up -- supported by clean smooth tannins that still have a perky youthful feel to them, and flow into a long clean berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. It's frankly young, and though one could drink it now with a roast or a hearty stew, it will reward those who have the patience to give it a year or two, and be even kinder to those who can wait longer. Quite nice.
(2 stars)

Donatella Cinelli Colombini Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is delicate, and quite young, with violets and red berry fruit mingling with some grapite shavings and underlying spice. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright slightly sour cherry and black currant fruit supported by lively acidity, and by clean sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly sour fruit laced finish. It's graceful, and will drink quite well with succulent red meats off the grill, or with hearty pasta dishes, or with hearty vegetarian fare. Expect the bottle to go quickly.
(2 stars)

Fanti-San Filippo
53020 Castelnuovo Abate - SI
www.fantisanfilippo.com

Fanti Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep back almandine with black almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar laced with some hardwood ash, underlying balsamic acidity; and some dried plum fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly intense cherry plum fruit supported by tannins that have a marked peppery burr, while there is also a fair amount of cherry plum acidity to provide direction, and it flows into a fairly long bitter finish. The wood overshadows the fruit to a degree, and the wine needs time to settle. At least a year, at which point it will drink well with succulent roasts whose richness will be balanced by the bitter tannic notes of the wine.
(1 star)

Fanti Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Deep pyrope ruby with violet overtones and purple cherry rim. Looks young. The bouquet is powerful, and quite fresh, with a rush of violets mingled with some berry fruit and slight acidity that keeps it perky; it's a luscious starlet in a glass. On the palate it's full and quite fresh, with powerful cherry plum fruit that gains direction from sour cherry acidity, and is supported by ample smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long clean cherry plum finish. The palate follows the nose, and if you like this tantalizingly lush up front fruit driven style, you will like it very much. If you instead prefer greater austerity you won't; it's a wine that takes no quarter.
(2 stars)

Fuligni
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.empson.com

Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, at first swish, with some smoke and spice, but not too much, supported by some greenish notes; further swishing brings forth delicate red berry fruit as well, and more pronounced spice from grapes. On the palate it's ample, with fairly intense red berry fruit that gains direction from fairly bright acidity, and is supported by ample smooth sweet tannins. Pleasant, in a fairly traditional key; it will drink nicely with succulent red meats, though it will benefit from another year or two in bottle, and may age quite nicely.
(2 stars)

Le Chiuse
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.aziendaagricolalechiuse.it

Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, in a mature key, with polished leather and raw beef mingled with leaf tobacco and slight balsamic notes supported by some cedar, and hints of dried plum. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful slightly balsamic cherry plum fruit that gains direction from deft berry mineral-berry fruit acidity, and is supported by broad sweet smooth tannins that flow into a long clean slightly sour berry fruit finish. Quite elegant, and will drink nicely now with succulent red meats, though it will also do very interesting things if you have the patience to allow it to age. Worth seeking out if you like the fairly traditional style, and perhaps even if you don't.
90

Gianni Brunelli
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577 849342

Gianni Brunelli Le Chisue di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Black almandine with slightly brownish reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is pleasant in a traditional key, with polished saddle leather mingled with leaf tobacco and some savory overtones that are backed up by slight smoke and dried flowers. On the palate it's full, with ample clean red berry fruit supported by deft citric acidity, and by clean smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long clean berry fruit finish. Deft enough, in a traditional key, though I'd have liked a little more richness to the fruit, which is slightly balsamic. It will in any case drink well with succulent red meats.
(1 star)

Il Palazzone
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577 835678

Il Palazzone Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and brownish rim. The bouquet is spicy, with a mixture of sweet fruit and herbal notes that brings fruit candied or cola to mind; it's clear wood fruit interaction. On the palate it's ample, soft, and fairly sweet, with moderately intense berry fruit that has slight menthol overtones and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long finish. It gives me an impression of trying too hard, and drawing too much from wood, while a fellow taster also muttered about concentrators.
(1 star)

Il Paradiso di Manfredi
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577 848478

Il Paradiso di Manfredi Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Black almandine with black reflections and brownish almandine rim. The bouquet is shut tight at first swish; more swishing brings up some iodine mingled with leaf tobacco and savory spice, but it brings to mind a house with the shutters closed. On the palate it's rich, with bright cherry fruit that gains direction from lively cherry acidity, and is supported by deft sweet tannins that flow into a long bright slightly sour berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. Pleasant, in a middle of the road key, and will be quite nice when the nose has caught up with the palate, in a year or two. Drink it with succulent red meats, but do give it time.
(2 stars)

Il Poggione
53020 S. Angelo in Colle - SI
http://www.tenutailpoggione.it

Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is delicate, with green leather and leaf tobacco mingling with warmth and sour cherry acidity, and supported by underlying slightly dry berry fruit and pleasing spice from grapes. It's elegant, and demands attention rather like a good speaker who is talking quietly. On the palate it's full, with fairly powerful red berry fruit supported by ample tannins that are still quite young and lay down a warm peppery burr that continues on into a fairly long, slightly bitter finish. It's still quite young, and the tannins need another year to settle and get their bearings. Drink it with succulent red meats when it's ready.
(2 stars)

Innocenti
53028 Torrenieri - SI
Tel. 0577 834227

Innocenti Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and brownish almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with notes of geranium and warmth mingled with a fair amount of spice from the grapes. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by tannic bitterness, and by moderate bitter overtones. I'd have liked more; it feels hot and tired.
(1 star)

La Fornace
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.agricola-lafornace.it/

La Fornace Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of iodine mingled with some leather and light sweetish overtones. On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with minor graphite-shot berry fruit supported by moderate acidity, which flows into a fairly long graphite laced finish. There isn't much fruit, and though the other components step in, they can't completely take up the slack.
(1 star)

La Fortuna
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.tenutalafortuna.it

La Fortuna Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet moderately intense, with delicate plum fruit mingled with cedar, some tart berry fruit acidity, and hints of spice. Pleasant. On the palate it's full, and soft, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by fairly bright plum acidity, and by ample sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long cherry plum finish with tannic underpinning. It's deft enough in a large key, and though a bit soft, and I found myself enjoying it; it can be drunk now but will also age nicely, becoming lacy as the tannins fold in.
(2 stars)

La Fortuna Rosso di Montalcino 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is bright, with a fair amount of red berry fruit supported by spice and some mentholated notes; it seems cooler than many 2003 wines. On the palate it's full, and fairly rich, with bright cherry and forest berry fruit supported by deft sour cherry acidity, and by ample sweet tannins whose softness reveals the summer heat, and it all flows into a long clean cherry fruit finish. Quite nice, especially considering the vintage, and will drink well with hearty pasta sauces, or with succulent red meats off the grill. Pleasing grace in a difficult vintage, and worth seeking out.
(2 stars)


La Gerla
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.lagerla.it

La Gerla Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is smoky, with a fair amount of iodine and some hardwood ash, mingled with sea salt and bitter overtones; it gives an impression of still being up in the air. On the palate it's ample, smooth, and fairly soft, with cherry and forest berry fruit that gains some direction from moderate sour red currant acidity, and support from slightly bitter tannins that flow into a fairly bitter finish with dusky overtones. I'd have expected more from the nose, which really isn't ready yet, and would also have liked greater richness and direction from the fruit, which depends upon the tannic structure for more body than one might have liked it to.
(1 star)

La Rasina
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.larasina.it/

La Rasina Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Impenetrable black almandine with black almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, in a clean oak-laced key, with cedar and berry fruit mingled with some smoke and bramble and warmth. On the palate it's full, with fairly bright forest berry fruit supported by clean berry fruit acidity and by ample smooth tannins tha flow into a long clean forest berry fruit finish with slight tannic underpinning. Pleasant, in a middle of the road key, and though it needs time --- a year to get its bearings -- it will drink nicely with succulent red meats.
(2 stars)

La Serena
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577 848659

La Serena Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet somewhat muted, though with swishing cedar laced red berry fruit does emerge, a bit owlishly, with some greenish underpinning. On the palate it's full, with ample cherry and forest berry fruit that gains direction from some mineral acidity, and is supported by fairly dry cedar laced tannins that flow into a clean bitter tannic finish with graphite shaving overtones. I'd have liked greater richness of fruit -- the tannins are angry enough and cedary enough that they make the wine seem drier than it might be. It will soften with time, but I must judge the wine I have before me.
(1 star)

La Togata
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.brunellolatogata.com

La Togata Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with spice mingling with slightly candied red berry fruit and some underlying spice. On the palate it's full, and soft, with ample red berry fruit that gains moderate direction from some acidity, and is supported by full smooth tannins that flow into a fairly quick finish; I'd have liked more acidity to better define the fruit, and a bit more backbone to the tannins, which have a decidedly soft feel to them.
(1 star)

Lambardi
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577 848476

Lambardi Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Fairly deep black almandine ruby with black reflections The bouquet is deft, with powerful slightly sour red berry fruit supported by clean spice from grapes and by some leaf tobacco and hints of dried flowers. Quite a bit going on in a fairly traditional key. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful slightly sour cherry fruit supported by deft red currant acidity, and by tannins that are clean, and still quite young, laying a slightly glancing trail over the tongue. It's quite elegant in a traditional key, and still climbing; I would give it another year at least before opening it, and expect that it will do beautiful things over the coming decade. Well worth seeking out if you like this style.
90

Lambardi Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, and slightly wild, with bright red berry fruit mingled with some animal air and bright acidity, which are supported by slight vegetal notes. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful bright cherry fruit supported by lively cherry acidity and slight dusky bitter notes that give depth, while the tannins are still quite young, and have a splintery burr that will need a year to fold in. Pleasant in a lively traditional key, and if you like this fairly muscular style you will like it very much; it will add considerably to a meal cooked on the palate it's he grill, and will also work well with a platter of mixed fried meats and vegetables on a hot summer day. Expect it to go quickly. Worth seeking out.
(2 stars)

Le Gode
53024 Montalclno - SI
http://www.legode.it/

Le Gode Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is distinctly modern in key, with red berry fruit mingled with slightly candied fruit and spice from oak; the combination, which is a factor of youth and will fade with time, makes me think of coca cola. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by bright sour cherry acidity and by tannins that are still quite young, and lay a glancing cedary burr over the tongue. It's like watching a beautiful athlete in mid-leap; we can be certain she'll come down well, but in the meantime she's in the air. I'd give it a year, perhaps two, and then enjoy it with succulent red meats -- a steak sounds nice. Or give it even longer, because the potential is there.
(2 stars)

Villa Poggio Salvi
53024 Montalcino - SI
Tel. 0577 848486

Villa Poggio Salvi Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, though as of yet a bit unsettled in a rather modern key, with ripe slightly jammy forest berry fruit mingled with cedar and some spice; it's like the pieces of a puzzle that have almost come together, but there's still a little space between them. Pleasant, however. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful cherry fruit that gains direction from fairly rich warm berry fruit acidity, and is supported by ample smooth tannins that still reveal distinctly cedary overtones and hints of bitter cocoa. In short, quite modern with considerable contribution from wood, and also quite young, but pleasing and quite successful; if you like this style and have the patience to give it a year to plant its feet on the ground, you should seek it out.
(2 stars)

Lisini
5302D S. Angelo in Colle - Si
http://www.lisini.com/

Lisini Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine with almandine rim and slight hints of orange. The bouquet is intense, with fairly intense balsamic notes mingled with some cedar and underlying green leather, with peppery spice and hints of smoky berry fruit. It's fairly along. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful cherry plum fruit that gains direction from moderate cherry acidity, and is supported by ample sweet tannins that still have a youthful feel to them, and it all flows into a long plum laced finish with a tannic underpinning. Pleasant in a slightly overripe traditional key, and though it is young it will drink well with hearty roasts or stews. It also has the capacity to age nicely for a number of years, and if you like this sort of studied softness in traditional trappings, you will like it very much.
(2 stars)

Marchesato degli Aleramici
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.marchesatodeglialeramici.it/

Marchesato degli Aleramici Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up cedar mingled with heather -- odd for a red wine, but I smell it -- that gives way to delicate red berry fruit with pleasing spice. It's like watching a child who's peeking around a corner; you know he's there, but he's not about to be seen. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful soft plum cherry fruit that gains some direction from slight acidity, and is supported by ample smooth soft tannins that flow into a long plum finish. It's overripe, oddly so given the other 2001 Brunelli I've tasted, but holds together nicely, and if you like this sort of big soft wine you will like it very much. I'd give it a year to develop, but not age it for much more than five years.
(2 stars)

Mastrojanni
53020 Castelnuovo Abate - SI
Tel. 0577 835681

Mastrojanni Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is still closed, though swishing brings up leaf tobacco and green leather mingled with warmth, dried flowers, and slightly dried red berry fruit, and underlying spice. Pleasant in a fairly traditional key. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by lively mineral acidity that resolves into citric, and by ample sweet tannins that are still quite young, and it all flows into a fairly long acidic finish. Pleasant, in a traditional key, and if you like this style you will like it, though I would give it at least a year and perhaps two to find itself.
(2 stars)

Máté
53024 Montalcino Si
Tel. 0577 847215

Mate Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit unsettled, with intense mentholated cedar that has some petroleum-balsamic overtones, and hints of gum Arabic. No fruit, really. On the palate it's full and quite soft, with slightly candied plum fruit supported by fairly deft plum acidity, and by very smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean plum finish. It feels like a hotter vintage than 2001 is known for being, and is also up in the air, especially with regards to the nose, which is going in several directions at once. To be honest I'm not sure how it will land, but it will in any case be big and quite soft.
(1 star)

La Velona
53024 Montalcino - SI
http://www.lavelona.com

La Velona -- Monade 90 Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is delicate, with deft red berry fruit mingled with some spice and hints of cut leaf tobacco. Bright, too. On the palate it's ample, and fairly soft, with bright cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have slight cedar overtones, and flow into a fairly long finish with plum and hints of cocoa. It's big, and a touch soft, and to be frank I found myself wanting greater richness of fruit and slightly more acidity to give it definition.
(1 star)


Ferrero
53020 S. Angelo in Colle - SI
Tel. 0577 844170

Ferrero Rosso di Montalcino 2004
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is deft, though still slightly muted; swishing brings up bright cherry fruit supported by clean black currant acidity and by some delicate floral overtones; there's also berry fruit jam that adds a certain depth. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry fruit that gains depth from jammy accents and is supported by lively forest berry fruit acidity, while the tannins are ample and smooth, with a slight youthful burr, and flow into a fairly long clean cherry fruit finish. Pleasant, and will drink quite well with succulent meats off the grill, simple roasts, or lighter stews. Expect it to go quickly.
(2 stars)