Despite the popularity of Carmignano's wines, which persisted throughout the 1800s -- both the Niccolini and Artimino estates exported Carmignano to other European countries -- the appellation was legislated out of existence in the 1930s, when those governing wine production decreed that the wines of Carmignano be labelled Chianti Montalbano, one of the lesser appellations that arose when bottlers throughout Tuscany began to slap the word Chianti on their labels. And so things remained until the early 1970s, when Count Ugo Bonaccossi took the reins of Villa Capezzana, Carmignano's largest and oldest estate (it's mentioned in 8th century documents; the Bonaccossi family bought it in the 20s from the Rothschild, when they also bought out Niccolini). Count Ugo mounted a campaign to reinstate the Carmignano Appellation, enlisting the assistance of local politicians and the late Luigi Veronelli, one of Italy's most influential wine journalists, and in 1975 succeeded.
To distinguish Carmignano from Chianti Montalbano (an area cannot have two appellations made from the same grapes), the legislators included a small percentage of Cabernet in the blend of the new wine, thus recognizing the Carmignano's traditional use of French varietals. Unfortunately, after its birth the Carmignano Appellation languished; it was simply too small, 95 hectares and 8 producers, with Capezzana by far the largest, and though Capezzana's wines were good, they were unable, by themselves, to draw the journalists away from Sassicaia and the Supertuscans emerging from cellars in Chianti Classico. Nor did the increase in status from DOC to DOCG that came in 1988 have much effect.
Since then, however, a number of things have happened. Most importantly, the owners of the appellation's other estates, many of whom are industrialists in the city of Prato, have taken a much more active interest in their wineries, and as a result the overall quality level has risen substantially; in addition, some new people have joined the Congregazione, as the Consorzio is called (more are expected), and there has been the expansion in vineyard area, which is ongoing. Also, the city of Prato, which had long chafed at being a "suburb" of Florence, became an independent Province in 1992, and has since done a great deal to promote its local products, including, of course, Carmignano's wines. As a result of both increased quality and increased exposure, Carmignano has begun to carve out a space in both the national and international markets.
In terms of composition, Carmignano is, like most other Tuscan reds, based on Sangiovese. Specifically:
- Sangiovese at least 50%
- Canaiolo Nero up to 20%
- Cabernet Franc and/or Cabernet Sauvignon, from 10 to 20%
- Trebbiano Toscano, Canaiolo Bianco, and Malvasia del Chianti up to 10%
- Other red varietals authorized by the Province of Prato (primarily Merlot and Syrah), up to 10%
In short, the classic Central Tuscan blend of varietals, plus Cabernet; though white grapes are allowed I am not aware of anybody's including them. The vineyards are located in the Communes of Carmignano and Poggio a Caiano, on hillsides at elevations ranging from 50 to 200 meters above sea level. This is lower than Chianti Classico, where the elevations range from 200 to 600 meters above sea level, and as a result daytime temperatures are warmer during the summer months. This hastens the ripening and therefore the harvest, which is usually a couple of weeks ahead of Chianti Classico's. Carmignano is also just a few miles from the higher peaks of the Apennines, and because of this proximity it gets the night breezes, which bring temperatures down sharply, thus guaranteeing good temperature excursions that help develop bouquets. These mountains also bring the occasional summer thunderstorm, the rainfall from which, according to Count Ugo, helps maintain balance in the vineyards and further promotes ripening.
The maximum allowable yield for Carmignano DOCG is 8 metric tonnes per hectare, with a yield into wine of 70%. The basic Carmignano wine ages for 2 years, one of which in wood, prior to release, whereas Carmignano Riserva ages for 3 years, two of which in wood. The choice of wood type is up to the winemaker.
In addition to Carmignano DOCG, the members of the Congregazione also make several DOC wines. The most intriguing, from a historical standpoint, is Vin Ruspo (literally, stolen wine), a wine patterned after what the share-croppers used to make on the sly, by taking the last load of grapes home each day of the harvest, and keeping the juices that ran from the baskets during the night. It's a dry, fruity rosé. There is also Barco Reale, a lighter red named after a walled Medici Family hunting preserve located in Carmignano; it's designed to be drunk sooner than Carmignano, and is similar to Rosso di Montalcino in this respect. And finally, there is Vinsanto, a traditional Tuscan dessert wine made from white grapes allowed to dry on straw mats until mid-winter before they're pressed.
I tasted the wines at Di Vini Profumi 2005, the annual presentation of Carmignano's wines held in Poggio a Caiano's Villa Artimino on May 31. They are now in wine shops, and I will be tasting this year's releases in about a month.
The wines:
Fattoria di Artimino
Viale Papa Giovanni XXIII, 1
59015 Artimino
Tel 055/8751423-4
Fax 055/8751480
Fattoria Artimino Allegria IGT Toscana 2004
70% Chardonnay, 30% Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, and Canaiolo Bianco
Pale brassy yellow with bright brassy reflections. The bouquet is fresh, and young, with an abundance of honeysuckle and strawberry blossoms mingled with some gunflint that provides direction and a degree of pungency. On the palate it's fairly full, with strong minerality supported by some acidity; there isn't as much fruit as one might have expected from the nose. Direct, and will drink well with fish-based pasta and rice dishes, or with flavorful fish in general. Drink it now.
1 star
Fattoria Artimino Rosato di Carmignano Vin Ruspo DOC 2004
Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Trebbiano, and Malvasia
Salmon pink with salmon reflections and electric raspberry highlights. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit mingled with cut flowers and mineral notes as well as some sour berry fruit acidity and delicate greenish overtones. On the palate it's fairly full, with raspberry fruit that combines a certain fruit-based languor with lively raspberry acidity that carries through into a clean peppery berry fruit finish. It will work quite well with meat or egg based antipasti, simple pasta dishes, and cookout foods. You'll likely want at least a second bottle, because it will go quickly.
2 stars
Fattoria Artimino Barco Reale DOC 2004
Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Trebbiano
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with penetrating peppery spice mingled with some cedar, brambles, and a fair amount of acidity; there is also moderate berry fruit, which isn't as intense as I'd have expected given Barco Reale's role as a lighter wine. On the palate it's medium bodied with moderately intense rather bitter berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by moderate acidity that flow into a finish with lasting warmth. The overall effect isn't thin, but lacks depth, and I'd have expected more from the wine -- it lumbers some, and has a tired feel to it. Drink it with lesser grilled meats.
1 star
Fattoria Artimino Carmignano Villa Artimino DOCG 2003
60% Sangiovese, 10 % Canaiolo, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% other varietals
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is vinous, with a fair amount of cedary spice and moderate berry fruit that has some plum overtones. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderate fairly sour red berry fruit supported by tannins that lay a dusty trail over the tongue and flow into a long rather bitter finish. It's not thin, but a bit flat, and I'd have liked more crispness to hold it up. Because of this I'd drink it now, with grilled meats or light stews.
1 star
Fattoria Artimino Carmignano Villa Artimino DOCG 2002
60% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% other varietals
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is frankly chemical, with plastic and iodine mingled with cedar and some sea salt; the wood is coming out but not as nicely as one might have liked. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense red berry and plum fruit supported by ample smooth tannins; there's something cavernous about it, and it flows into a warm fruit finish with cedar underpinning. I'd have liked better definition and tightness; it sags.
1 star
Fattoria Artimino Carmignano Vigna Grumarello DOCG 2000
75% Sangiovese, 18% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 7% other varietals
Deep black cherry ruby. The bouquet is unusual, with wet leather mingled with spice and some balsamic barnyard tang; there isn't much fruit but there are some pungent cut flowers. On the palate it's full, and fairly sweet, with ample plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by just enough acidity to keep it from falling flat; it will drink well with drier flavorful meats, and I would drink it now because as the acidity fades with time so will the wine.
1 star
Fattoria Artimino Carmignano Riserva Medicea DOCG 2001
65% Sangiovese, 15% Canaiolo, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% other varietals
Almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is spicy, with pronounced vegetal notes, balsamic overtones, and moderate fruit; it's bright, and gives an impression of thinness. Though it does qualify as lean on the palate it's not thin; there's bright brambly berry fruit with some greenish notes supported by brambly tannins that flow into a warm sour tannic finish. It's not a wine to lay down, but does display a coltish grace and will drink well, in the short term, with succulent fatty roasts or stews, including leg of lamb.
2 stars
Fattoria Artimino Vigna dell'Iris IGT Toscana 2002
80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Sangiovese
Deep black cherry ruby with some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is smoky, with cedar and mint mingling with hardwood ash, and some vegetal notes, while there is underlying spice. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense graphite-laced red berry fruit supported by smooth tannins that flow into a distinctly savory finish with cedary underpinning. It's big, and I'd have liked better definition -- it's rather lax. Drink it with succulent red meats.
1 star
Podere Allocco
Via Capezzana 19
59015 Carmignano
Tel 055/8705259
Podere Allocco Bacano IGT Toscana 2004
70% Chardonnay, 30% Sauvignon Blanc
Bright brassy gold with greenish reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with smoky notes and considerable bitterness mingled with burnt cork and the pungency cut flowers sometimes have. The palate reflects the nose; there's ample tropical fruit -- very ripe pineapple mingled with some mango -- supported by mineral acidity and pronounced bitter overtones; the overall effect is overcharged, and struggles to support itself. The vintage brought concentration, but one can have too much of a good thing.
1 star
Podere Allocco Carmignano DOCG 2003
70%Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10 % Syrah
Deep blackish ruby with black reflections and some garnet in the rim. The bouquet is fresh, and vinous, with violets and quite a bit of vegetal bramble and peppery spice mingled with graphite shavings and some fairly tart red berry fruit that has sour lemony balsam overtones. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly bright cherry and forest berry fruit that has some graphite bitterness and is supported by warmth and sweet smooth tannins that flow into a long warm slightly balsamic finish. Pleasant, in a lively fairly direct fruit driven key, and will drink well with meat-based pasta dishes, leaner grilled meats, or light stews. I would drink it now or within the next 2-3 years.
2 stars
Fattoria Ambra
Via Lombarda, 85
59015 Carmignano
Tel 055/486488 - 8719049
Fattoria Ambra Trebbiano IGT Toscana 2004
Brassy gold with bright brassy reflections. The bouquet is charged, with bright tropical fruit -- ripe pineapple mingled with apricot and supported by cut mint that gains depth from spice and some acidity. On the palate it's full, with bright brambly minerality supported by citric acidity that flows into a long sour lemon finish. Pleasant in an aggressive, sassy key, and will drink well with creamy fish or cheese-based risotti, fish-based pasta sauces, or creamy or tomato-based white meats or fish. If you like the style you will like it, but you do have to like bright aggressive wines.
2 stars
Fattoria Ambra Rosato Vin Ruspo DOC 2004
80% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon
Lively salmon pink with electric pink reflections. The bouquet is bright, with raspberry fruit supported by raspberry acidity and the heather of a Tuscan field in mid summer. On the palate it's medium bodied and bright, with lively raspberry fruit supported by deft raspberry acidity that flows into a bright finish. A lark of a wine, that will be perfect lightly chilled at a picnic, or at a cookout. Expect the bottle to go fast.
1 star
Fattoria Ambra Barco Reale DOC 2004
80% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Canaiolo
Deep pigeon blood ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and quite brambly, with a fair amount of iodine and some peppery sea salt, but not much fruit. On the palate it's light, with brambly berry fruit that has greenish overtones, and gains direction from some sour cherry acidity; the tannins are light and a touch splintery. I'd have expected more; it will in any case drink well with light stews or simple grilled meats.
1 star
Fattoria Ambra Carmignano Vigna di Montefortini DOCG 2003
80% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Canaiolo
Cherry ruby with some brick in the rim. The bouquet is lively, and vegetal, with grilled bell pepper mingled with red berry fruit and a fair amount of alcoholic warmth. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderate fruit that's a touch tired, supported by fairly light tannins and slight sour plum acidity. I'd have expected greater depth given the nose; it's like seeing a long shadow approach and discovering that the person casting it is short. Drink it with simple pasta dishes, hearty soups, or drier meats.
1 star
Fattoria Ambra Carmignano Santa Cristina in Pilli DOCG 2003
75% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Merlot+Syrah+Colorino
Deep pigeon blood ruby with brick orange in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with grilled pepper vegetal notes that mingle with peppery spice and underlying red berry fruit and mint. On the palate it's medium bodied, and soft, with ample black currant and cherry fruit that has slight plum overtones and is supported by full smooth tannins; there's enough acidity to keep it from settling but not so much that one would call it lively, and it flows into a fairly bitter finish. Because of this softness it will work well with drier red meats, for example roast beef cooked medium, and I would drink it within the next 2-3 years.
1 star
Fattoria di Bacchereto
Via Fontemorana 179
59015 Bacchereto
Tel/Fax 055 - 8717191
Bacchereto Sassocarlo IGT Toscana 2003
80% Trebbiano, 20% Malvasia
Slightly cloudy gold with dusky apricot highlights. The bouquet is smoky, with hardwood ash and heather mingled with some white berry fruit and sour wet wool; the effect is fairly charged and almost medicinal. On the palate it's full, and oddly flat, with moderate mineral-laced white berry fruit, while much of the structure seems to come from glycerin, and flows into a bitter finish with shadowy overtones. It's overconcentrated, and overly rich; one has the impression that the grapes got too much sun.
1 star
Bacchereto Sassocarlo IGT Toscana 2002
80% Trebbiano, 20% Malvasia
Bright apricot gold with apricot reflections and brassy reflections. The bouquet is charged, with a mixture of honeysuckle and vanilla mingled with brown sugar (barest hints), hardwood ash, penetrating cedar, and eucalyptus. On the palate it's medium bodied and bitterer than one might have expected from the nose, with moderately intense bitter mineral fruit supported by moderate acidity and some dry cedar notes that flow into a long bitter finish. It's charged, and though not oversized is lacking in grace.
1 star
Bacchereto Carmignano Terre a Mano DOCG 2003
75% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Canaiolo
Deep pyrope ruby with some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is vinous, with vegetal notes and some grilled pepper mingled with some cedar and slight barnyard tang that adds a rustic touch. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich plum-berry fruit supported by tannins that have a slight splintery burr, but are on the whole smooth. The fruit gives an impression of overripeness that contrasts oddly with the dryness of the tannins, and results in a lack of harmony. Because of the dryness of the tannins I'd drink it with lean, succulent meats.
1 star
Bacchereto Carmignano Terre a Mano DOCG 2002
75% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Canaiolo
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and some orange in the rim. The bouquet is powerful, and vegetal, with grilled pepper mingled with hardwood ash and peppery spice, all held together by underlying red berry fruit and some shellac. On the palate it's full, and quite smooth, with fairly intense plum fruit supported by ample smooth tannins that have some sweet overtones, and the barest hint of plum acidity that keeps it from flagging, though one couldn't by any stretch of the imagination call it lively; the finish is long, with fruit that gradually fades to reveal cedar. Drink it with drier red meats, or with flavorful white meats, say a turkey breast with gravy.
1 star
Bacchereto Vinsanto di Carmignano DOC 1996
Tawny amber with golden reflections. The bouquet is clean, with almond fuzz mingling with chestnut honey and some brown sugar; there's also quite a bit of alcohol, some dried mushroom, and light rancio (see below note). Harmonious. On the palate it's full, and rich, with pleasant dried apricot-laced brown sugar supported by deft apricot acidity that flows into a clean bitter walnut skin finish. By comparison with the other vinsanti poured it's more polished, and also more approachable; it will drink well with cheeses or far from the meal.
2 stars
Note: Rancio is a term used to describe a flavor perception found in tawny brown, wood-aged and heated wines, for example Madeira; the aroma is a mixture of greenish leather and extremely ripe bananas with nutty overtones, and is fairly penetrating.
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Tenuta di Capezzana
Via dei Capezzana, 100
59015 Carmignano (PO)
Tel 055/8706005
Fax 055/8706673
Tenuta Capezzana Trebbiano di Capezzana IGT Toscana 2002
Deep apricot gold with greenish reflections and apricot highlights. The bouquet is powerful, with floral notes and vanilla mingling with hardwood ash and very ripe pineapple fruit; the combination brings marzipan to mind, and there are also walnut skins and brambly spice. On the palate it's bright, with moderately intense pineapple lemon fruit supported by bitter mineral acidity that flows into a fairly long bitter mineral finish whose direction comes from said acidity. It owes much of its character to wood and is therefore not a style I'm enamored with, but works well in a charged key. If you like the style it will work well with delicately cooked flavorful white fish.
2 stars
Tenuta Capezzana Barco Reale DOC 2003
70% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Canaiolo
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is unusual, with cooked fruit mingled with rhubarb, spice, and hot iron; the combination brings anchovy paste (over berry fruit) to mind somehow. On the palate it's dry, with brambly berry fruit supported by brambly tannins and some acidity, which all flow into a brambly finish. It will drink well with foods, but is not as rich as I might have liked, and the nose was a surprise.
1 star
Tenuta Capezzana Carmignano Villa Capezzana DOCG 2003
80% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is powerful, and quite young, with violets mingled with red berry fruit and grilled pepper vegetal overtones, and a fair amount of berry fruit jam. It brings to mind a starlet. On the palate it's full, and ample, with powerful plum cherry fruit that gains direction from slight, though deft acidity, and is supported by ample smooth sweet tannins. It's opulent and all curves, but also displays a pleasing deftness, and if you like this over-the-top style it will work well with drier red meats, or even hearty pasta sauces. A good expression of a hot vintage, and I would drink it now, before its voluptuousness fades.
2 stars
Tenuta Capezzana Carmignano Trefiano DOCG 2000
Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Canaiolo
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and dark rim. The bouquet is overripe, with berry fruit jam mingled with hints of green leather and some plum. On the palate it's full, and soft, with ample plum fruit supported by tannins that have slight graphite bitterness to temper their sweetness, and by barest acidity that flows into a tingly bitter finish; it all holds together fairly well though it's decidedly soft and won't age overlong. Drink it with flavorful drier dark meats.
1 star
Tenuta Capezzana Ghiaie della Furba IGT Toscana 2001
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with black cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is powerful, with hot iron and dried artichoke leaves mingled with peppery spice and some sweetness, and also India ink bitterness. On the palate it's ample and brighter than I might have expected from the nose, with full sour cherry-plum fruit supported by ample sweet tannins that gain direction from some sour plum acidity, and flow into a long sour plum-laced finish that takes on peppery notes with time. It holds together well, and will drink nicely with drier game, for example roast pigeon or venison.
2 stars
Tenuta Capezzana Vinsanto di Carmignano DOC 1999
Tawny golden amber with apricot highlights. The bouquet is powerful, with spicy herbal notes and rich brown sugar sweetness, and underlying dried mushrooms. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful dried apricot fruit supported by deft apricot acidity, while the sweetness is again dried apricot mingled with brown sugar and hints of maple sugar, and towards the finish walnut skins also enter the picture, buttering the lips and continuing at great length. Quite nice, and will be an excellent accompaniment to rich cheeses, including moldier cheeses such as Gorgonzola or Stilton.
90
Castelvecchio
Via delle Mannelle 19
59011 Seano
Tel 055/8705451 - Fax 055/8730113
Castelvecchio Vin Ruspo DOC 2004
Sangiovese, Cabernet Franc, Canaiolo
Pale salmon pink with salmon reflections and highlights. The bouquet is bright, with red berry fruit mingled with greenish accents and a fair amount of sour lemon acidity. Deft. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly intense raspberry fruit supported by moderate acidity that flows into a fairly long dour lemon finish with peppery overtones. It's direct, and will work well with picnic foods or simple pasta dishes.
1 star
Castelvecchio Barco Reale DOC 2003
Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Canaiolo
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is a bit wild, with wet horse and some stable straw mingled with balsamic acidity and some underlying red berry fruit. Eye opening. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense sour berry fruit supported by brambly tannins and a fair amount of acidity; it feels as if the grapes had a rough time ripening, and to be frank this is a surprise. It will in any case drink well with red meats, but you have to like this animal style if you buy it.
1 star
Castelvecchio Carmignano DOCG 2003
75% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Canaiolo, and 5% Merlot
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is vinous, with some red berry fruit and sea salt mingled with iodine and penetrating acidity that rises up to tickle the nose. On the palate it's direct, and medium bodied, with dry fairly acidic berry fruit supported by tannins that have a cedary burr and lead into a fairly long tart finish. Youthful, and a touch scrappy; it will drink well with grilled meats or light stews. I'd have liked a little more fullness to the fruit.
1 star
Castelvecchio Vinsanto di Carmignano DOC 2000
Tawny amber with apricot highlights. The bouquet is bright, with dried apricots and nutmeats mingling with alcohol and rancio, also walnut skins and oatmeal. Quite a bit going on. The palate doesn't quite reflect the nose; it's fairly dry, with walnut meats and moderate dried fruit supported by some, but not too much brown sugar sweetness, and flows into a long walnut skin finish.
1 star
Il Poggiolo di Carmignano
Via Pistoiese 90
59015 Carmignano (PO)
Tel 055/8711242
Fax 055/8711252
Il Poggiolo Vin Ruspo DOC 2004
60% Sangiovese, 20% Canaiolo, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Trebbiano
Lively salmon with pink reflections. The bouquet is fairly bright, with brambly raspberry fruit laced with quite a bit of sour lemon acidity, and some greenish notes as well that are slightly sweet. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright raspberry fruit supported by clean acidity and by some deft tannins; it's graceful in a direct key and will drink well with picnic foods or at a cookout, and will also be nice with cold cuts or summer pasta dishes. Expect the bottle to go quickly.
83 (2 stars)
Poggiolo Barco Reale DOC 2003
S0% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Canaiolo
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is unusual, with India ink and plum fruit mingled with graphite shavings and the chalky finger-paints toddlers play with. Penetrating too. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense plum berry fruit supported by ample smooth tannins that have graphite bitter overtones and lead into a fairly long peppery finish. It's plodding, and I would have expected grater richness and liveliness from it.
1 star
Poggiolo Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2001
75% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Canaiolo
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up unusual aromas that bring iodine-laced peaty whisky -- Laphroaig for single malt lovers -- to mind. Not much in the way of fruit. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense generic berry fruit that has peaty iodine overtones and flows into a fairly long finish with sea salt and balsam as the whisky slowly fades. It's not what I expect from a Carmignano, but will drink well with flavorful red meats, and there is sufficient acidity to work well with juicier cuts as well.
1 star
Le Farnete
Via Macia 144
59015 Comeana (PO)
Tel 0571/910078 - Fax 0574/574323
Tenuta le Farnete Barco Reale DOC 2004
80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with deep ruby rim. The bouquet is spicy, with hardwood ash and bramble mingled with ground black pepper, and, with more swishing, some plum fruit. But it's mostly peppery spice. On the palate the wine is medium bodied with moderate berry fruit supported by flat bitter tannins that flow into a fairly long flat finish; the overall impression is both dry and tired.
1 star
Tenuta le Farnete Carmignano DOCG 2003
80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is powerful, and wood driven, with a chemical spiciness that brings ball point pen ink to mind, mingled with some underbrush and ground pepper. On the palate it's ample and soft, with an unexpected lemony acidic component that rapidly overcomes the fruit -- graphite-laced ripe berry -- while the tannins are broad and soft, with slight graphite notes that carry into a long warm finish. It's disjointed, going every which way, and though it will come together with time the fruit is such that by the time it does said fruit may have faded. I'm not sure what happened here, but would drink it now, with drier red meats, because it is flavorful.
1 star
Tenuta le Farnete Carmignano DOCG 2002
80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon
Deep garnet ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit wild, with balsam and peppery spice mingled with warmth and some white glue. Not much fruit. On the palate it's fairly full, with moderate rather generic berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have distinct cedary overtones. It's tired, and I doubt it will perk up much with time.
2 stars
Tenuta le Farnete Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2003
80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with plum fruit laced with violets and some graphite shavings; there's also underlying peppery spice. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards full, with bright plum cherry fruit supported by some acidity, but to a greater degree by peppery tannins that flow into a long peppery finish. It's surprisingly lively considering the ripeness of the fruit and the slight sweetness that comes with a very hot summer, and will work well with drier dark meats, for example roast game birds, or with meat-based pasta sauces made with game. Given the ripeness of the fruit I'd drink it now.
2 stars
Tenuta le Farnete Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2001
80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon
Deep pigeon blood ruby with almandine in the rim; it also looks slightly cloudy. The bouquet is spicy, with a fair amount of shellac-laced vanilla and some red berry fruit; it has a settled feel to it. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite soft, with moderate generic berry fruit that has some acidity, and is supported by ample tannins that flow into a warm peppery finish. It's like trying to squeeze a fistful of air; your fingers come together and there's nothing there.
1 star
Podere Le Poggiarelle
Via Le Volte, 2 - Seano
59011 Carmignano(PO)
Tel/Fax 055 - 8712343
Poggiarelle Carmignano DOCG 2003
70 Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% other varietals
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections. The bouquet isn't as clean as it might be; there's a chemical sharpness I associate with white glue and a fellow taster describes as chicken coop, mingled with cedar and some red berry fruit, a mixture of forest berries and cherry, some sharp graphite, and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly bright red berry fruit supported by smooth tannins that have a peppery tang and by a fair amount of lemony acidity. The nose cleans as the wine airs, with the chemical notes fading, though a hint of white glue remains; while on the palate it is brash, with sufficient acidity to work well with rich pasta sauces, fattier grilled meats, or perhaps even fried foods. Pity about the white glue.
1 star
Pratesi (formerly Podere Lo Locco)
Via Rizzelli 10
59011 Seano(PO)
Tel 055/8706400
Fax 055/8979507
Cellulare: 335/215070
Pratesi Carmignano DOCG 2003
70% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Merlot
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with deep ruby rim. The bouquet is overripe, with plum and berry fruit jam mingled with spice, and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's full, and smooth, with ample plum fruit that gains direction from some citric acidity, and is supported by ample smooth soft tannins that flow into a fairly long warm plum-laced finish. It brings to mind an overstuffed sofa cushion somehow, but is pleasant, in an ample soft key; because of its softness and its rich fruit it will work well with flavorful drier meats, including game.
2 stars
Pratesi Locorosso IGT Toscana 2003
Sangiovese 100%
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with violet rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cedar mingled with plum fruit and some mint, and underlying berry fruit jam and peppery spice. On the palate it's medium bodied, and a defter than I had expected, with moderately intense plum fruit supported by sufficient acidity to keep it from flagging and by tannins that are clean and hold together, rather than settling in all directions; there is also some graphite in the finish. The wine is somewhat overripe -- a result of the vintage -- but has direction and holds interest; it will drink well with succulent red meats that aren't too fatty, but aren't too dry either. I would drink it sooner than later, in any case.
2 stars
Pratesi Carmione IGT Toscana 2001
Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with dark rim -- poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense, with India ink and unusual aromas of peaty single malt whisky, mingled with nose-tingling acidity and peppery spice. Not much fruit. On the palate it's full, and soft, with moderately intense plum fruit supported by ample sweet tannins that flow into a clean bitter tannic finish. There isn't much acidity, and I'd drink it now with drier meats that will profit from its relative softness.
1 star
Podere Piaggia
Via Cegoli 47
59016 Poggio a Caiano
Tel 055/8705363
Fax 055/8705833
Piaggia Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2002
70% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Merlot
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with black cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is somewhat cooked, with spice and berry fruit jam, but not much in the way of fruit. On the palate it's full, with moderate fruit supported by tannins that are distinct from the wine, doing their own thing, and as a result it brings to mind something discordant, along the lines of two groups of people singing different songs in the same room, rather than a chorus singing a single piece. The finish is dry and tannic, with some plum overtones and a fair amount of warmth. In summary, it's disjointed. Drink it with flavorful, fairly dry meats.
1 star
Piaggia Il Sasso IGT Toscana 2003
70% Sangiovese, 20%Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is smoky, with dusky ripe black currants and blueberries mingled with berry fruit jam, and supported by peppery spice. On the palate it's full, rich, and smooth, with moderately intense plum fruit -- I'd have expected more -- supported by cedar-laced tannins and some acidity that flow into a cedar-laced finish. One has the impression that the grapes overripened, and to compensate the wine maker used oak, which cut the sweetness, but was unable to restore the acidity the sun leached out.
1 star
Tenuta di Bagnolo
Via Montalese 156
59013 Montemurlo
Tel 0574 - 652439
Fax 0574 - 657247
Villa di Bagnolo Pinot Nero IGT Toscana 2002
Almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is warm and spicy with slightly sour cherry fruit supported by green leather and spice, and hints of balsam, with nose tingling peppery accents as well; the overall impression is quite harmonious. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rich, ripe red berry fruit supported by bright acidity and by graceful tannins that are slightly splintered now and will become lacy with time. The overall impression is quite graceful, in a fairly light key, and it will drink well with succulent red meats, for example roast beef or steak cooked rare. If you like soft smooth polished wines it won't work for you, but if you like vibrant liveliness in a graceful key you will like it.
2 stars
In closing, a quick observation on the 2004 Barco Reale: It wasn't as good as I expected it to be given the quality of the vintage as a whole. I assume the wineries channeled all of their best grapes into their Carmignano, shortchanging their Barco in the process, and though this makes for less interesting wines now, I hope it bodes well for the future.
Want to know more about Carmignano? Bill Nesto has written an excellent profile of the appellation.
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