An Older Wine: Villa Petriolo Golpaja Toscana IGT 2001

Lot 0302

This is a Sangiovese in purezza aged in small wood, and is Villa Petriolo's flagship wine; in presenting it they say it combines an attachment to the land with a modern approach in the cellar, and I would say I agree.

The 2001 Golpaja Toscana IGT, which was released a few years ago and is by now entering maturity, is deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim, and has a fairly intense bouquet with red berry fruit supported by tart brambly acidity and some animal hair - wet horse - with hints of green leather too. Nice balance and quite rich. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards full, with rich sour berry fruit supported by bright brambly acidity and hints of underbrush, and by smooth slightly greenish brambly tannins that flow into a long clean brambly finish with bright prune fruit and savory tannic underpinning. Quite nice, in a graceful scrappy key, and still quite young - it has at least another 5-8 years ahead of it. In terms of accompaniments, if you like this style, you might even be tempted to sip it far from the table. But it will go best with foods, in particular succulent, flavorful grilled meats. Elisabetta's aunt Adriana was serving steak and rosticciana (spare ribs well salted and peppered, and grilled over a gentle flame), and the pairing was just about perfect.
90-92

A Note: I have been asked where to find these older wines. Unfortunately, unless one happens to have a bottle in the cellar one's options are limited (even in Italy): barring a visit to the winery, one can visit a well-stocked wine shop that also has older wines and the facilities to keep them properly -- ideally, a refrigerated room -- or a restaurant with a good wine cellar. Neither suggestion is ideal, I know, but I think it's important to discuss wines after they've been released, and see how they are doing.