I approached the 2004 Barolo vintage with considerable anticipation -- it came upon the heels of two of the most difficult vintages in memory, and to be frank I was hoping that this time I'd taste wines I could recognize as Barolo.
I did; 2004 started more slowly than 2003, and though it did get hot during the summer months there were good day-night temperature excursions that favored the accumulation of aroma-producing compounds in the grapes, while the ripening took place at a more measured pace, allowing everything to come together and fall into place properly, as it were. The result was wines that though still very young display considerable grace and harmony coupled with supple power, and that will be well worth seeking out to set aside for enjoyment in future years. In short, it's excellent.
I'm still not sure which of the great recent vintages the 2004 most closely resembles. Perhaps the 1999, because it displays a similar sort of finesse, though it seems slightly readier than its older sibling did when it was presented a few years ago. One important thing worth noting is that, with respect to the 1999 vintage, most of those who were in the so-called Modernist or International camp have taken a step back from the extreme concentrations and heavy use of oak that were a hallmark of the style. In other words, Barolo as a whole is becoming more "traditional," and as I have said before, I can't help but view this as a positive development.
As is always the case there is a degree of variation from Comune to Comune. This year I was favorably impressed by the wines from Barolo, and also by those from Serralunga and Monforte, while La Morra seemed slightly understated, as did Castiglion Falletto.
The pouring of the wines at Alba Wines is organized by Comune, so that is how they are presented here, though in the case of wineries that have vineyards in several different Comuni (Commendator Burlotto, for example) I gathered all the wines together to make them easier to find.
Enough Talk! The wines, beginning with those from Barolo:
Damilano
Vicolo San Sebastiano, 2
12060 Barolo (CN)
http://www.damilanog.com
Damilano Bricco Barolo DOCG 2004
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some red berry fruit laced with berry fruit acidity and clean spice. On the palate it's very young, with rich red berry fruit supported by clean cherry and red currant acidity, while the tannins are warm and slightly splintery but have considerable depth, and promise to develop quite well. It's a babe, but will do interesting things as it grows. One could drink it now, but it will reward those blessed with patience too.
2 stars
Damilano Liste Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and some brownness in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry leather mingled with rosa canina and underlying spice from the grapes, with hints but not more of leaf tobacco. Very young. On the palate it's fairly full, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by bright almost brambly acidity and clean fairly dry tannins that flow into a dry finish. It's fairly direct, and I found myself wanting more direction and depth to the fruit.
1 star
Bric Cenciurio
Via Roma, 24
12060 Barolo (CN)
http://www.briccenciurio.com
Bric Cenciurio Costa di Rose Barolo DOCG 2004
Lively black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with clean rosa canina mingled with slight balsamic accents and some goudron, with underlying cedar. On the palate it's ample, with bright red berry fruit supported by clean slightly sour cherry acidity, while the tannins are smooth and sweet, and flow into a long bright finish. Quite pleasant, in a graceful young key, and will drink very well with foods, in particular steaks or roasts. It is also rather young, and will do interesting things as it ages over the next few years.
2 stars
Gagliardo Gianni
Serra dei Turchi, 88
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.gagliardo.it
Gagliardo Gianni Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish accents mingled with a fair amount of alcohol, and pleasant underlying spice; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, and quite soft, with the fullness deriving more from smooth sweet tannins than fruit -- there's some generic berry fruit -- while the acidity is sufficient to keep it from settling, but just barely. It's big, but not deft -- rather moving with slow deliberation, and I found myself wishing it had more zip to it.
1 star
Gagliardo Gianni Serre Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with red berry fruit supported by slight greenish acidity and by warm spice, with some nose-tingling balsamic notes as well. On the palate it's ample and smoother than I might have expected, with moderately intense red berry fruit that's supported more by leathery minerality than by acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that work from below the surface, flowing into a long slightly finish that has burnt caramel bitterness to it. It's more settled than a young Barolo should be, and I wonder how well it will hold with time, as in my experience wines that settle don't rearise.
1 star
Cascina Adelaide
Via Aie Sottane, 14
12060 Barolo (CN)
http://www.cascinaadelaide.com
Cascina Adeliade Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2004
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit more rustic than some, with fairly intense balsamic notes mingled with animal tang and underbrush, with underlying green leather that brings cocoa and wood smoke to mind. An interesting mix. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by clean cherry acidity with slight hints of roses, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly bright finish. It's still very young, to the point of being in mid stride, and will, I think, do interesting things as it ages, but it needs time. At present it's fairly direct.
2 stars
Cascina Adelaide Fossati Barolo DOCG 2004 Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish balsamic notes mingled with wet stable straw and strong savory accents. Rustic. On the palate it's ample, with bright red berry fruit supported by lively red berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly rich finish. The palate is much more graceful than the nose, and has quite a bit to say -- though young one could converse with it, and I think it will do very interesting things with time, as will the nose, which is beginning to reveal leather and other things as it opens further. A fairly traditional wine, but not too brash -- the acidity is present but on a tight leash by comparison with some of the other wines -- and if you like the style you will enjoy it. Expect it to age well for a decade or more.
2 stars
Michele Chiarlo Azienda Vitivinicola Strada Nizza-Canelli, 99
14042 Calamandrana (AT)
http://www.chiarlo.it
Chiarlo Michele Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is surprisingly fresh, with bright red berry fruit laced with bell pepper jam and some violets, and pleasant underlying spice that gains depth, as the wine opens, from some green leather. On the palate it's ample, bright, and rather languid, with clean cherry plum fruit that gains support from moderate rather mineral acidity, and from smooth sweet tannins that settle into a clean berry fruit finish. It's not as tight as I might have liked, but rather sags noticeably, and this is something that will not improve with time.
1 star
Rinaldi Francesco E Figli
Via U. Sacco, 4
12051 Alba (CN)
Tel: 0173 440484
Rinaldi Francesco e Figli Canubbio Barolo DOCG 2004 Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with green leather mingled with rosa canina and hints of goudron, with underlying spice. Pleasant to sniff, and has quite a bit to say. On the palate it's ample, with bright cherry and forest berry fruit supported by lively acidity, and by tannins that are still rather rough, with a clean slightly greenish burr, though they are headed in the direction of velvet. It's pleasant, if very young, and will drink nicely now with succulent roasts or stews, though it will also richly reward those who have the patience to give it a few years; I would expect it to age well for a decade at least.
2 stars
Comm. G. B. Burlotto
Via Vittorio Emanuele, 28
12060 Verduno (CN)
http://www.burlotto.com
Burlotto Commendator G. B. Vigneto Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2004 Elegant garnet ruby with garnet rim. The bouquet is pleasant, with rosa canina mingled with spice and red berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity. Considerable depth, and though it's quick to write there's also great harmony in a decidedly youthful key. On the palate it's ample, with rich rather languid cherry and forest berry fruit supported by clean bright slightly greenish Nebbiolo acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean deft fruit finish. Graceful, and though it will evolve quite nicely with time one could enjoy it now with grilled meats or roasts. I found myself smiling and nodding as I sipped.
2 stars
Burlotto Comm. G. B. Acclivi Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with deft red berry fruit supported by clean rosa canina and pleasing spice; though it's very young one can hold a long conversation with it. Great depth and finesse. On the palate it's clean and rich, with powerful cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity that guides without impinging, and by sweet tannins that are already well into steely velvet despite their being very young, while the finish is long and clean with berry fruit that has a deft tannic underpinning. It's very young, but shows great poise, rather like a young ballerina who already has experience with the stage. Most impressive, and if you like the traditional style you should seek it out. Ditto if you like the modern style, because good wine is a universal and you'll find much to think about even if this isn't what you normally drink. Expect it to age well for 15-20 years.
91
Marchesi Di Barolo
Via Alba, 12
12060 Barolo (CN)
http://www.marchesibarolo.com
Marchesi Di Barolo Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, with lively red berry fruit supported by greenish accents and some berry fruit jam, while there are also pleasant rosa canina accents and some spice. Enjoyable. On the palate it's bright and fresh, with lively cherry fruit supported by clean slightly greenish acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have savory overtones and flow into a clean slightly savory fruit laced finish with warm tannic underpinning. It's graceful, in a middle of the road key, and will drink quite well with foods, ranging from stews through roasts and also grilled meats.
2 stars
Marchesi Di Barolo Sarmassa Barolo DOCG 2004
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with rosa canina mingled with some cedar and deft greenish spice, and supported by underlying cherry fruit and acidity. On the palate it's ample, with rich berry fruit supported by clean acidity that's mineral at the outset, but becomes more fruit based as it develops, and by tannins that are still very young, and lay a clean tannic wash over the palate, which gradually fades into fruit laced warmth. It's very young, and though it does display considerable potential it also needs time-- at present it's a toddler having a bad day. In short, give it at least 2 years, and perhaps more, by which point it will be much more interesting than it is now, and it will also age nicely for a decade further at least.
2 stars
Germano Angelo Frazione Annunziata, 24/A
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.vinigermano.com
Germano Angelo Vigna Ruè Barolo DOCG 2004 Almandine with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit supported by greenish berry fruit acidity and some underlying cedar as well. Nice balance, though very young. On the palate it's bright, with lively berry fruit supported by clean slightly bitter berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that have a youthful splinteriness to them, and flow into a clean fairly tannic finish. Pleasant, and will drink quite well with red meats or stews; it also has the capacity to age well for a decade or more. Worth seeking out.
2 stars
Mauro Sebaste
Via Garibaldi, 222 Frazione Gallo
12051 Alba (CN)
http://www.maurosebaste.it
Sebaste Mauro Brunate Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with a pleasing mixture of green leather and rosa canina at first sniff, supported by spice and some hints of marzipan. Nice balance. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by clean, zesty berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean, bright sour cherry finish with fairly long tannic underpinning. It's pleasant in a youthful key now, and will drink well with succulent red meats, ranging from thick steaks through stews, and also has the capacity to age nicely for quite some time. 10 years easily, and likely more.
2 stars
Sebaste Mauro Prapò Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, and ripe, with jammy berry fruit supported by greenish accents and some cedar. Elegant, in a youthful international key. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with rich cherry fruit that gains direction from smooth deft berry fruit acidity, and is supported by ample sweet tannins that flow into a long clean berry fruit finish. It's ample, smooth, and surprisingly ready for a young Barolo, and because of its softness will drink well with drier meats. If you like this sort of ample fruit driven wine you'll like it very much, though I don't think I would age it for long because the softness of the acidity coupled with the already smooth nature of the tannins will lead to its settling considerably, and big soft settled wines are no fun. So a Barolo to be drunk young. Wonders never cease.
2 stars
Barale Fratelli di Barale Sergio
Via Roma, 6
12060 Barolo (CN)
http://www.baralefratelli.it
Barale Fratelli Castellero Barolo DOCG 2004 Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, ina greenish key with quite a bit of nose tingling acidity laced with some balsam, but not much fruit, though some green leather and hints of rosa canina emerge with more swishing. It's still developing, and very much in mid stride. On the palate it's ample, with moderately rich cherry fruit supported by bright sour cherry acidity that has hints of green apricot to it, and by clean splintery tannins that flow into a clean dry sour berry fruit finish with lasting acidity. It's woefully young, and still disjointed, but could be pressed into service with a thick steak or hearty stew. But if you can give it time, it will profit thereby, and likely age well for 10-15 years.
2 stars
Barale Fratelli Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is penetrating, with a fair amount of wood smoke and some balsamic accents overlying bitter wood smoke, though there isn't much fruit to it. On the palate it's ample, with rather soft sour red berry fruit supported by clean slightly bitter acidity and by ample tannins that lay a warm burr over the tongue and flow into a clean bitter fruit laced finish with a clean tannic underpinning. With respect to some of the other wines poured the fruit isn't quite as rich, nor as round, but it will drink nicely with grilled meats or hearty roasts, and will also stand up to stews; one could drink it now but it will age well for a decade and perhaps more.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Sandrone Luciano
Via Pugnane, 4
12060 Barolo (CN)
http://www.sandroneluciano.com
Sandrone Luciano Cannubi Boschis Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with rather medicinal accents mingled with cedar and iodine; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by fairly slight sour cherry fruit, and by tannins hat are fairly smooth -- some splinters -- and flow into a strikingly bitter (tongue-curling, even) graphite shaving finish. The fruit isn't as rich as the structure built around it, and consequently the wine comes across as a bit flat.
1 star
Sandrone Luciano Le Vigne Barolo DOCG 2004
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish accents mingled with red berry fruit and some spice, but it's very much a work in progress. On the palate it's full, with rich red berry fruit supported by clean fresh red berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that do display a youthful burr, and flow into a fairly long clean tart berry fruit finish. It's peasant, though it needs time, at least a year and likely two to get its bearings and pull everything together, at which point it will work very well with succulent red meats. I'd give it the time because the nose is much less interesting now than the palate, and that will change. In short, it's going places.
2 stars
Boroli
LocMadonna di Como, 34
12051 Alba (CN)
http://www.boroli.it
Boroli Cerequio Barolo DOCG 2004 Deep almandine with black reflections, and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with dusky bitterness mingled with alcohol and underbrush, and a fair amount of cedar as well. Not much fruit, however -- what there is is too young and gets overshadowed by other things. On the palate it's ample, and savory, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by tannins that are fairly smooth, with pronounced bitter accents, and by savory notes that work fairly well, though I'd much have preferred a deft acidity that seems to be absent, while the finish is clean and bitter. It works, but the relative lack of acidity makes the wine more settled than it otherwise would be, despite all the best intentions of the bitterness that is stepping in.
1 star
Boroli Villero Barolo DOCG 2004
Almandine with dusky black reflections and almandine rim. The nose is a bit off, with dusty Moroccan leather mingled with piercing savory bitter accents and some hot iron that becomes more apparent with swishing. The second bottle is cleaner, with more green leather than dust in the nose, though it's still, relatively speaking, muted and feels older than a new wine should. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense tart cherry plum fruit supported by slight acidity and by fairly large tannins that have a warm burr to them and flow into a clean tannic finish. It's more settled than it should be at this stage of the game.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Giacomo Brezza & Figli
Via Lomondo, 4
12060 Barolo (CN)
http://www.brezza.it
Brezza Giacomo e Figli Bricco Sarmassa Barolo DOCG 2004 Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is intense, with strong greenish accents that bring freshly pulled park (of the birch sort) to mind, supported by brambles and pungent cedar with leafy underbrush and spice. Not much fruit, however. On the palate it's clean, and bitter, with moderate berry fruit supported by slight acidity, and to a greater degree by smooth ample tannins that have a considerable bitter component and flow into a fairly long warm finish with bitter underpinning. The fruit isn't as rich as it might have been, nor as bright; the wine as a result feels rather settled, and I'm not sure how long it will last. Also oaky, and this sort of bitter oakiness was more common a few years ago than it is now.
1 star
Brezza Giacomo e Figli Sarmassa Barolo DOCG 2004
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with a fair amount of cedar mingled with spice and some pungent greenish accents, but not much fruit, though there is some eucalyptus. On the palate it's ample, and brighter than I had expected from the palate (though not really bright); there's fairly rich cherry and forest berry fruit supported by bright sour berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that do have bitter accents, and flow into a clean fairly long bitter tannic finish. It's quite young, and to be honest needs another year or two to come together, at which point it will likely be pleasant in a rather brooding sort of way -- it's not a wine I would suggest to those who like fruit driven softer wines. Expect it to age well for at least a decade.
2 stars
Pira E. e Figli
Via Vittorio Veneto, 1
12060 Barolo (CN)
http://www.pira-chiaraboschis.com/
Pira E e Figli Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2004
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents and quite a bit of bitterness mingled with underbrush and fairly intense cedar. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with moderately rich berry fruit supported by rather graceful warm acidity, and by tannins that are smooth and sweet, and flow into a clean fairly bright sour berry fruit finish. It's more along on the palate than the nose, and is frankly frazzled at present, needing at least a year and more likely two to get its bearings. When it has them it will be pleasant in a fairly international key, and drink well with succulent red meats. But it needs time.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Lodovico e Virna Borgogno
Via Alba, 73
12060 Barolo (CN)
http://www.virnabarolo.it
Virna Cannubi Boschis Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is eye-opening, with a rush of graphite packed cedar of rare bitterness laced with greenish accents and a fair amount of alcohol. It's not like sniffing a barrel salt because of the graphite, but very much in that direction. On the palate it's full, and actually fairly soft, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by clean soft berry fruit acidity that was masked in the nose, and by tannins that are very smooth and flow into a clean fairly tart berry fruit finish; the graphite bitterness that suggests lots of wood isn't evident in the palate and this leads me to think that the wine is worse than up in the air, with the palate providing a better indication of where it will go than the nose at the present time. It needs time to figure out what it wants to be when it grows up, and scoring it now would be pointless, though I do think it could do interesting things over the next 5-10 years.
Virna Preda Sarmassa Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep almandine with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is powerful, in a clean rustic key with balsamic notes and menthol mingled with animal tang -- stable straw -- and wet horse with a fair amount of peppery spice as well. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich bitter berry fruit that has balsamic overtones, and is supported by a combination of balsamic acidity and tannins that are still young and dry, though they promise to clean up well, and in any case flow into a clean slightly bitter tannic finish. It's pleasant in an aggressively rustic key, and needs another year or two for the tannins to smooth over and soften, after which it will age well for 10 15 years. If you like the style you will enjoy it, but you have to like the style.
2 stars
Poderi Luigi Einaudi
Borgata Gombe,31
12063 Dogliani (CN)
http://www.poderieinaudi.it/
Poderi Luigi Einaudi Nei Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2004
Black almandine with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is clean, with slight greenish accents mingled with airy spice; there's not much fruit, however, nor floral accents, and it gives an impression of holding back. On the palate it's ample, with moderate fruit supported by a mixture of mineral acidity and bitter accents, with underlying fairly smooth tannins, which flow into a clean fairly bitter finish. It's not as rich in terms of fruit as I might have liked, but because of the tannic bitterness will nicely balance fatty foods.
1 star
Poderi Luigi Einaudi Costa Grimaldi Barolo DOCG 2004 Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit supported by hints of cedar and also rosa canina, with some greenish accents that bring watermelon rind to mind. Pleasant, and gives an impression of being in mid-stride, going places. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry and forest berry fruit supported by clean bright acidity that displays considerable depth, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long warm sour berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. Pleasant in a very youthful key -- it's a toddler in nursery school at present -- but could work nicely with a steak or other rich grilled meat -- lamb chops come to mind -- at present. I would be strongly tempted to give it a few years, however, and would expect it to age well for a decade or more.
2 stars
Giuseppe Rinaldi Via Monforte, 3
12060 Barolo (CN)
http://www.barolodibarolo.com/scheda.asp?id_azienda=25&tipo=caratteristiche
Rinaldi Giuseppe Brunate - Le Coste Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish accents mingled with cedar and nose tingling spice,while there is also hardwood ash. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by some fairly savory acidity that has a peppery component to it, and flows into a warm savory finish with (again peppery spice); the tannins holding it all together are smooth, with a slight youthful burr, and the wine though young will drink well with succulent red meats. It will also, I think, reward those willing to give it time, at least a year and preferably two, while it will age well for a decade or more.
2 stars
Cantina Mascarello di Mascarello Bartolo
Via Roma, 15
12060 Barolo (Cn)
http://www.albeisa.org/it/aziende_scheda.asp?id=94
Mascarello Bartolo Barolo DOCG 2004
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some spice mingled with hints of wood smoke. It's like a person who really wants to be left alone. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by deft cherry acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean sour cherry fruit finish, and while it's quick to write there's considerable grace to it, and it will drink very well in the short term (2009) with succulent red meats. Those who have the patience to give it a few years will, however, be richly rewarded, I think, because I have the impression that it is going places and will be worth waiting for.
2 stars
Famiglia Anselma
Località Castello della Volta
12060 Barolo (CN)
http://www.anselma.it
Famiglia Anselma Barolo DOCG 2004 Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish accents mingled with goudron and some sea salt, with a fair amount of underlying alcohol. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by mineral acidity that steps in to a degree for the fruit, and by clean clanking tannins that flow into a fairly tart mineral finish. There isn't as much fruit to it, and as a result the other elements carry the show, doing as well as they can. More fruit would have been better.
1 star
Prunotto Località San Cassiano, 4/G
12051 Alba (CN)
http://www.prunotto.it
Prunotto Barolo DOCG 2004 Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and smoky, with moderate greenish acidity and strong savory accents as well, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with richer fruit than the nose would suggest now, leading one to think the nose is closed; the fruit is fairly bright cherry and forest berry fruit supported by slightly greenish berry fruit acidity and warmth, while the tannins are ample and smooth, and flow into a long warm tannic finish with sour fruit underpinning. It's very much in mid stride, and needs at least a year to come together, but is promising; if one had to one could already drink it with a succulent roast. But I think it will reward those who can give it time.
2 stars
Prunotto Bussia Barolo DOCG 2004 Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with clean greenish accents mingled with berry fruit and some berry fruit jam, and supported by airy cedar. On the palate it's ample, with moderately rich fruit -- I'd have expected more -- supported by moderate acidity and by an abundance of cedary tannins that lay a wash over the tongue and cover everything else. There's less fruit than I would have liked, and it's also a bit generic -- greater richness and definition would have been nice.
1 star
La Spinetta Via Annunziata, 17
14054 Castagnole Lanze (AT)
http://www.la-spinetta.com
La Spinetta Vigneto Campè Vursu Barolo DOCG 2004
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with powerful vegetal accents mingled with green leather and some spice, with underlying red berry fruit and hints of rosa canina. Nice balance in a very young key. On the palate it's bright, and full, with rich sour cherry and forest berry fruit supported by bright acidity that have a greenish vegetal cast to it from grapes, by tannins that are a little dry now, but have an underpinning of smooth steel that flows into a clean rich finish that gains added depth from very slight residual sweetness that confers a brandied quality to the berry fruit. Pleasant, though it needs at least a couple of years to get its act together, after which it will be very long lived. In short, something to set aside.
2 stars
Terre Da Vino
Via Bergesia, 6
12060 Barolo (CN)
http://www.terredavino.it
Terre Da Vino Paesi Tuoi Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with strong greenish accents whose sweetness brings watermelon rind to mind, and fairly airy spice mingled with some red berry fruit and nose tingling acidity. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful red berry fruit supported by clean bright sour cherry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that fade, leaving the field to the fruit and the acidity. It's pleasant but I found the surrender of the tannins a bit disconcerting; it makes the wine much simpler on the palate than it otherwise might have been, and also more direct. This said, it will drink quite well with succulent red meats now or in the near term. I just don't know how long it will age with the tannins fading the way they seem to be.
1 star
Terre da Vino Essenze Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with elegant rosa canina mingled with red berry fruit and supported by pleasant slightly greenish spice. Quite a bit going on, in a very young key. On the palate it's clean and rich, with fairly intense red berry fruit supported by lively greenish berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long clean finish. Deft, and will drink very well with foods; it's already approachable now, but will improve markedly over the next 3-5 years, and age well for a decade or more.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Elvio Cogno
Via Ravera, 2
12060 Novello (CN)
http://www.elviocogno.com
Cogno Elvio Ravera Barolo DOCG 2004
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish accents and some spice mingled with red berry fruit and a fair amount of alcohol that adds depth, while there are also some cedar and hints of balsam. A fair amount going on in a fairly traditional, very young key. On the palate it's ample, with bright red berry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that work well from below the surface to lead into a clean tart berry fruit finish. Graceful, in a rich key, and will drink very well with succulent red meats even now, though it will benefit from another year in the cellar, and improve markedly over the years, becoming quite impressive by the time it is mature.
88-90
Azienda Agricola Abbona di Abbona Marziano & C.
Via Torino, 240
12063 Dogliani (CN)
http://www.abbona.com
Abbona Marziano Terlo Ravera Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with elegant greenish accents mingled with clean rosa canina and some spice form grape; it's still in mid stride. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry and forest berry fruit supported by clean bright cherry acidity and by smooth tannins that have a slight greenish tinge to them, and flow into a long clean tart finish. Pleasant in a lively, zesty tomboyish sort of way, and though it will reward those with the patience to let it mature, it will already drink well now. With foods, of course.
2 stars
Abbona Marziano Pressenda Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with an abundance of fresh cedar laced with some cocoa and peppery accents, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with richer berry fruit than I expected, though it's not really bright, supported by a mixture of warm tart acidity and smooth sweet tannins that display considerably less oak than I might have thought from the nose, and flow into a clean berry fruit finish. It's quite young, and I think the nose may be in a stupid phase -- when it shuts down after bottling -- while the palate is also still figuring itself out. In other words, giving it a score now could be quite misleading with respect to the future.
Azienda Agricola Grimaldi Giacomo & Figli
Via Luigi Einaudi, 8
12050 Barolo (CN)
http://www.barolodibarolo.com/scheda.asp?id_azienda=57
Grimaldi Giacomo Sotto Castello di Novello Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some red berry fruit laced with balsam and gum Arabic and hardwood ash; it's in a holding pattern I think, and needs to develop further. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity that has some sweet brown sugar accents, and by tannins that though sweet have a greenish peppery burr to them, and flow into a clean rather bitter greenish finish with tannic underpinning. It's a bit settled, and feels, given the sweetness, as if the fermentation stuck at some point. Because of said sweetness, combined with the peppery aggressiveness, I would drink it with roasted white meats served with sauces or gravies.
1 star
Sarotto Roberto Via Ronconuovo, 13
12050 Neviglie (CN)
http://www.robertosarotto.com
Sarotto Roberto Audace Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black lam with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is frankly rustic, with bright balsamic acidity mingled with stable straw that is shifting -- not to mince words -- into cow shit. Quite intense. On the palate it's ample and bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity, and by ample smooth tannins that flow into a fairly long clean berry fruit finish with tart berry fruit underpinning. Pleasant though woefully young, and I would give it 3-5 years to get its bearings and begin to enter maturity (by which point the aromas will be quite different, if you're the sort who objects to rutting rusticity), expecting it to continue to age for a decade or more thereafter. In short, a wine to set aside for an occasion in the future. Not for tomorrow.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Piazzo Armando
Frazione S.Rocco Seno D'Elvio, 31
12051 Alba (CN)
http://www.piazzo.it
Piazzo Armando Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish vegetal notes mingled with red berry fruit whose interaction brings watermelon rind to mind, and some hardwood ash and spice. On the palate it's ample and bright, with lively red berry fruit supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are tightly woven and promise to become quite smooth, though they are now very young. This said, there is a directness to it that will likely persist even as it becomes more mature, and I'd have liked a little more richness to the fruit, which is a slight touch thin.
1 star
Casa Vinicola Fratelli Giacosa Via XX Settembre, 64
12057 Neive (CN)
http://www.giacosa.it
Giacosa Fratelli Vigna Mandorlo Barolo DOCG 2004
Lively fresh almandine with brilliant ruby reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is equally fresh, with rosa canina blending nicely with tart berry fruit and some almost raspberry like acidity, and underlying spice with hints of green leather. Quite welcoming. On the palate it's ample and bright, with rich cherry fruit that gains direction from lively cherry acidity, and is supported by tannins that have a warm greenish burr to them and flow into a fairly long clean tart finish. It's quite pleasant in a bright-eyed saucy key, and while this isn't necessarily what one thinks of in conjunction with Barolo, I found myself enjoying it. I would, however, give it another year at least to get the tannins under control, because they're still very young.
2 stars
Giacosa Fratelli Bussia Barolo DOCG 2004 Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some medicinal notes mingled with plum fruit and slight wood smoke. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by bright sour cherry acidity and by moderately intense tannins that are fairly smooth, and it all flows into a long tart finish. I found it a little bit settled, with fruit surrendering more than I might have liked to acidity, though this is much better than the fruit surrendering to the tannins, because acidity gives life and the capacity to age. However, with it predominating the way it does this early, I wonder if the wine will become thin with time, and fear it might.
1 star
Tenuta Montanello Strada Alba-Monforte, 32
12060 Castiglione Falletto (CN)
http://www.tenutamontanello.it/
Tenuta Montanello Barolo DOCG 2004 Lively almandine with orange in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a dusky key, with moderate sour berry fruit supported by spice and some green leather, with underbrush and wet clay as well, and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense rather generic berry fruit that gians direction from some tart berry fruit acidity, and is supported by tannins that have a cedary bitterness to them that I found slightly distracting -- it brings overly caramelized sugar to mind -- and flows into a bitter finish. It's young, and the pieces are still up in the air, but I found myself wishing for a little more depth and fullness to the fruit.
1 star
Fontana Livia - Azienda Vitivinicola Cascina Fontanin
Via Pugnane, 12
12060 Castiglione Falletto (CN)
http://www.liviafontana.com
Fontana Livia Villero Barolo DOCG 2004
Almandine with black reflections and some orange in the rim. The bouquet is clean and bright, with fairly intense red berry fruit, tart cherry, supported by tart slightly greenish acidity and a fair amount of alcohol. A muscular youth. On the palate it's not as interesting as I expected from the nose; there's tart berry fruit but it's overshadowed by rather raucous acidity, while the tannins holding it all together are muscular and smooth, working from the undersurface. At present it's too young and I think it's developing; given the considerable acidity it will likely be long-lived, becoming rather austere with time, but it has to get there and we're just at the beginning of the journey. I think it could be interesting, but it's soon to say.
2 stars
Fontana Livia Barolo DOCG 2004 Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up delicate berry fruit supported by greenish accents and a fair amount of sour slightly greenish acidity. Nicely balanced with the directness of youth. On the palate it's bright, with rich cherry fruit supported by considerable brisk acidity, which provides good direction, while the tannins are clean and smooth, and it all flows into a clean tart finish that's fairly long. Very young, with an appealing clean directness, and I think it will age nicely, acquiring complexity and subtlety with time.
2 stars
Monfalletto - di Giovanni ed Enrico Cordero di Montezemolo Frazione Annunziata, 67 bis
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.corderodimontezemolo.com
Monfalletto Cordero di Montezemolo Enrico VI Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black cherry ruby -- there's much less garnet to it than to many of the others -- with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit supported by cedar and berry fruit jam and pleasant underlying spice; it's nicely balanced in a fairly modern key. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by moderate, deft acidity, and by clean sweet tannins that have a degree of cedar to them, and lead into a warm fairly tart finish with underlying cedar bitterness. Pleasant, in a decidedly more approachable key than many of the other young Barolos poured, and if you like wines that are smoother and less aggressive it would be a good bet, and work quite well with hearty roasts or stews.
2 stars
Monfalletto Cordero di Montezemolo Bricco Gattera Barolo DOCG 2004 Deep pigeon blood ruby with some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and bright, with red berry fruit supported by cedar that has some penetrating hardwood ash accents, and by clean greenish notes, with underlying berry fruit acidity. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with rich red berry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have been polished by a dusting of cedar, but are very much present and provide good direction and support, leading into a fairly long fruit laced finish with warm cedary underpinning. It's pleasant in a fairly modern key, and though one could drink it now with roasts or stews, it will profit from another year or perhaps two in bottle, and will, I think, age very well for 10-15 years. Worth seeking out if you like the style.
2 stars
Poderi e Cantine Fratelli Oddero Frazione Santa Maria, 28
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.odderofratelli.it
Poderi e Cantine Oddero Rocche di Castiglione Barolo DOCG 2004
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up rosa canina mingled with spice, alcohol, and underlying berry fruit. Nice balance, in a very young key. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by warm smooth berry fruit acidity, and by ample sweet tannins that work from below the surface, leading into a clean tart finish. It's graceful, and though I found myself enjoying the interaction between fruit and acidity I found the tannins a bit lax, and wonder how long it will age.
1 star
Poderi e Cantine Oddero Brunate Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with considerable cedar and some spice, and with time some rosa canina also emerges. It's very much uip in the air. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins; it's more settled than I might have wanted, and as a result I found myself wishing for greater tightness and depth..
1 star
Azienda Agricola Sobrero Francesco e Figli di Settimo e Pierfranco
Via Pugnane, 3/A
12060 Castiglione Falletto (CN)
http://www.sobrerofrancesco.it
Sobrero Francesco Ciabot Tanasio Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is subdued, with dusky hints of leather -- old book bindings -- and some mineral tartness but not much else. On the palate it's ample, with minerality more than fruit, supported by tart mineral accents and by ample sweet tannins that flow beneath the surface, bringing to mind eddies in a pool of something much denser than water, while the finish is more of the same, slowly fading. It's much older and more settled than it should be.
1 star
Azienda Agricola F.lli Monchiero
Via Alba Monforte, 58
12060 Castiglione Falletto (CN)
http://www.monchierovini.it
Monchiero Fratelli Rocche Barolo DOCG 2004 Fairly dark almandine with lively black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit unusual, with warm berry fruit mingled with savory accents and sweaty redhead aromas of a sort I associate more with certain Sauvignons than with Nebbiolo. It's different -- these things would likely be animal tang were they stronger, or they might be a wood-fruit interaction -- but not displeasing. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have some cocoa accents to them, and settle into a fairly long cocoa laced fruit finish that would be more interesting were there more acidity to provide direction. The palate isn't working well for me because I would have liked more direction, and also greater tightness from the tannins at this stage. With time, what will be left?
1 star
Monchiero Fratelli Roere Barolo DOCG 2004 Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling towards orange. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish berry fruit supported by spice and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's clan, with moderately rich red berry fruit supported by clean sour berry fruit acidity and by ample tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a clean slightly tannic finish. It's pleasant, displaying a fair amount of grace in a distinctly traditional key, and though there is some youthful brashness to it, it will clean up nicely over the next couple of years, and age quite well for a decade or more. I found it growing upon me.
2 stars
Cavallotto Fratelli - Tenuta Vitivinicola Bricco Boschis
Via Alba-Monforte, Bricco Boschis
12060 Castiglione Falletto (CN)
http://www.cavallotto.com
Cavallotto Fratelli Bricco Boschis Barolo DOCG 2004 Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is Fairly intense, with red berry fruit mingled with greenish accents, a combination that brings savory watermelon rind to mind; with more swishing this fades to reveal cocoa and spice supporting the fruit, while there is also some dusky acidity. On the palate it's ample and fairly soft, with sour berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that are ample and smooth, and flow into a clean slightly bitter splintery tannic finish. It's not quite as tight as I might have hoped for -- in particular, the tannins spread more than I might want those of a young wine to do. It will, in any case, age well for a decade or more.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Brovia Via Alba Barolo, 54
12060 Castiglione Falletto (CN)
http://www.brovia.net
Brovia Rocche Barolo DOCG 2004
Lively black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is quite fresh, with berry fruit supported by spice and wet green leather, with hints of rosa canina as well, and some underlying cedar. Nice balance, and delicate. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean tart tannic finish with hints of cocoa woven into the tannins. Pleasant, in a very young sort of way, and needs a year or two to get its bearings and pull together. I would expect it to age well for at least a decade, becoming lacy with time.
2 stars
Brovia Cà Mia Barolo DOCG 2004
Black almandine with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is quite young, and muted, though swishing brings up some green leather mingled with spice and slight balsamic notes. It's like looking at a babe in a cradle. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that have a faint peppery burr, and flow into a clean slightly bitter finish. It's big, quite ripe, and needs another year; if you like this ripe fruit driven style you will enjoy it, but it needs time. Some, not too much, because given the softness of the fruit and the quality of the tannins I wouldn't age it for too long.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Franco Conterno Cascina Sciulun
Località Bussia, 62
12065 Monforte d'Alba (CN)
http://www.francoconterno.it
Conterno Francesco Cascina Sciulun Vigna Pugnane Barolo DOCG 2004 Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit more rustic than some, with dusky barnyard aromas and stable straw mingled with some tart bitterness, and hints of green leather, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with soft red berry fruit that though directed by slightly balsamic hc acidity isn't as well defined as I might have liked, and is supported by decidedly dry tannins that flow into a dry tannic finish. It's a bit settled.
1 star
Conterno Franco Cascina Sciulin Bussia Munie Barolo DOCG 2004 Dusky black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with peppery spice mingling with some forest berry fruit and slight cherry, and also some spice. It gives an impression of being in mid-stride. On the palate it's ample, with rich ripe but not overripe berry fruit supported by clean soft loquat acidity that's sufficient to provide direction but far from brash, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into clean slightly tannic finish. It's pleasant, but I would have liked more tightness to the tannins, which are a bit settled, and since they're not blocky or burred, they will likely continue to go in the direction they're headed. In other words, it's ample and soft, and though the fruit is rather pleasant in a middle of the road sort of way, I'm not sure it will age for long. In terms of accompaniments, I would serve it with drier meats, and now. If you like the style you will enjoy it, but if you prefer the more tightly defines traditional Barolo it won't work for you.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Giacomo Fenocchio Località Bussia, 72
12065 Monforte d'Alba (CN)
http://www.giacomofenocchio.com
Fenocchio Giacomo Villero Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and some almandine on the rim. The bouquet is muted, and though swishing does bring up some berry fruit and slight spice, the overall impression is one of a house with shutters battened down. On the palate it's pleasantly rich, with bright berry fruit supported by both graceful acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have slight hints of cedar to them, and flow into a clean fairly long berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. It's woefully young, and needs at least a year to bring everything together, but will I think be worth waiting for; expect it to age well for a decade or more, and contribute mightily to a meal built around succulent red meats.
2 stars
Fenocchio Giacomo Bussia Barolo DOCG 2004 Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up hints of sandalwood and slight medicinal accents. The wine wants very much to be left alone. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by clean berry fruit acidity, and buy ample smooth tannins that have a slight burr to them, and flow into a warm rather tannic finish that's fairly long. It needs time -- at least a year and perhaps more -- to get its act together and start to think about what it wants to do as a grownup; at present it has no idea, and to give it a score based on my assumption of what it might do doesn't seem quite right.
Azienda Agricola Rocche Viberti Via Alba Monforte n. 68
12060 Castigline Falletto (CN)
http://www.langhe.net/roccheviberti/
Rocche Viberti Vigneti Rocche Barolo DOCG 2004 Fairly deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, and though swishing brings up some berry fruit mingled with rosa canina and supported by alcohol and acidity the wine is surrendering only grudgingly, and really just wants to be left alone. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit laced with rosa canina and hints of leather, and supported by lively cherry acidity, while the tannins are clean and beginning to develop velvet, though they're still quite young. Bracing, in a youthful zesty way, and it will be quite pleasant with succulent red meats in a year or two, when the pieces have come together; I would expect it to age well for 10-15 years. Something to seek out and set aside.
88
Azienda Agricola Vietti Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 5
12060 Castiglione Falletto (CN)
http://www.vietti.com
Vietti Rocche Barolo DOCG 2004
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright berry fruit supported by clean brambly acidity and some vegetal accents, while there are also hints of rosa canina and green leather with underlying savory spice. On the palate it's full, with fairly bright berry fruit supported by deft cherry acidity and by tannins that are very young and decidedly splintery, flowing into a fairly long dry tannic finish. It will be pleasant, in a fairly traditional key, but needs another year or perhaps two to come together and for the tannins to begin to round; when it's ready it will drink well with succulent red meats, and over the long haul (10-15 years) it will become quite interesting.
2 stars
Vietti Brunate Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim fading into orange. The bouquet is fairly rich, with clean red berry fruit supported by lively greenish spice and deft underlying alcohol; it's quite young. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly bitter finish. It's very young, in a quite ripe key -- the acidity is less because of this -- and though approachable already will profit from another year or two in bottle, and age well for a decade at least. How much longer? Not sure, because there isn't that much acidity to it. Worth seeking out if you like this rich ripe style.
2 stars
La Morra Azienda Agricola Rocche Costamagna
Via Vittorio Emanuele, 8
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.rocchecostamagna.it
Rocche Costamagna Rocche dell'Annunziata Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and brownish almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rosa canina mingled with green leather, and has something haunting about it; quite harmonious (in youth) and it's something one can sniff and sniff again, wondering what it will do with time. On the palate it's rich, with elegant cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that are beginning to show velvet, and flow into a long clean finish. Very nice, and though one could drink it already it's clearly at the outset of a long climb, and I would be tempted to allow it at least a few years before interrupting it. It's one of those wines you hate to pour out at a tasting.
2 stars
Rocche Costamagna Bricco Francesco Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and leathery almandine rim The bouquet is fairly intense, with rich rosa canina mingled with green leather and berry fruit; classic Nebbiolo and a great deal of finesse. On the palate it's ample, with rich red berry fruit supported by clean almost lacy cherry acidity, and by ample sweet tannins that have a slight savory burr, and flow into a fairly long tannic finish. It's a babe in the woods, but a nice babe, and though one could drink it now with a steak it will richly reward those who have the patience to let it develop. Very nice, and worth seeking out.
88-90
Azienda Agricola Poderi Marcarini Piazza Martiri, 2
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.marcarini.it
Poderi Marcarini Brunate Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit supported by some rosa canina and by acidity that has a slight greenish twang to it, and by some cedar. Nice balance in a very young key, and it's obviously in mid-stride. On the palate it's ample, with bright berry fruit supported by clean cherry acidity and by tannins that will be quite smooth, but have a warm burr now, and flow into a clean fairly rich fruit finish that gains life from acidity, while there is also a deft tannic underpinning. It's pleasant in a fairly rich middle of the road key, and will be nice when it has its legs about it; at present it's not quite in swaddling clothes but is still underage. Give it at least 2 years and expect it to continue to climb for 10 or more.
2 stars
Poderi Marcarini La Serra Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with red berry fruit supported by dusky accents and some rosa canina, with hints of slightly greenish berry fruit jam -- a jelly with a pepper added to it, and, with more swishing, some leather. On the palate it's ample, and fairly soft, with moderately intense berry fruit that gains direction from some acidity, and is supported by tannins that at present seem laxer than they will become because they're splintery, and flow into a clean tannic finish. Though it will tighten some with time, the structure and acidity are neither as bright nor as tight as those of some of the other wines poured, and I found myself wanting greater depth.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Gianfranco Bovio
Frazione Annunziata - Borgata Ciotto, 63
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.boviogianfranco.com
Bovio Gianfranco Vigna Gattera Barolo DOCG 2004
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine orange rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a delicate sort of way, with leather mingled with rosa canina and some goudron; though it's quite young it's also quite pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's graceful, with fairly bright red berry fruit supported by delicate sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that aren't too massive, but have nice definition and are smoothing over well. It's not a powerhouse, but will, with time, develop great finesse I think.
2 stars
Bovio Gianfranco Vigna Arborina Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some tart acidity and slight balsam. It's far from ready to debut. On the palate it's ample, and soft, with rather smooth cherry plum fruit supported by some plum acidity, and by ample smooth tannins that work from below the surface, as it were, flowing into a clean warm fairly tart finish. It's more settled than I would expect of a young Barolo, and I am therefore not too sure what it will do with time.
1 star
Vitivinicola Aurelio Settimo
Fraz. Annunziata, 30
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.aureliosettimo.com
Aurelio Settimo Barolo DOCG 2004
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly rich, with green leather mingled with same balsamic accents and pungent hardwood ash. Not much fruit. On the palate it's fairly bright, with rich slightly leather red berry fruit that gains definition from clean sour cherry acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a warm burr to them, and flow into a warm, tart finish. It's very much a toddler, but the fruit and acidity on the palate promise well, as do the tannins, and I think it will do nice things as it ages over the next few years. But it needs at least 2 for the nose to begin to come together, because at present it's not happy. At all.
2 stars
Aurelio Settimo Rocche Barolo DOCG 2004
Dark almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some green leather supported by penetrating acidity and some rosa canina that emerges with determined swishing. Very young, and quite unsettled. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright berry fruit supported by clean bright acidity and by fairly smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long tannic finish. It's a bit coarser than some -- not as much finesse -- though in its defense one must say that it is very young, and not showing particularly well. It needs time, a couple of years at least to figure out how to stand on its own, and a decade or more to really begin to shine.
2 stars
Marengo Mario
Via XX Settembre 32
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.la-morra.it/site.aspx?p=1175
Marengo Mario Barolo DOCG 2004
The nose is shut tight, grudgingly revealing some savory accents and hints of berry fruit with energetic swishing, but refusing to go further. On the palate it's rich, with pleasant red berry fruit supported by hints of leather and delicate berry fruit acidity, while the tannins are quite smooth, with an undercurrent of velvet that's apparent despite their youth. It has a certain appealing grace to it, but is woefully underaged, and needs time -- at least a year and more likely two before it becomes presentable, and it will likely age well for 10 15 years thereafter. Some might object to this undrinkable youth in a released wine, but I would reply that if you want to drink a Piemontese current vintage you have lots of Dolcetto and Barbera to chose from.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Mauro Veglio
Frazione Annunziata - Cascina Nuova, 50
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.mauroveglio.com/
Veglio Mauro Rocche dell'Annunziata Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some green leather mingled with penetrating acidity and slight spice. It's like a canvas that's sketched out, but the colors haven't been added yet. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by mild acidity and tannins that are fairly smooth, and flow into a clean slightly sour finish. I'd have liked greater depth than I found; it's fairly direct, and while it will increase in complexity with time I wonder how far it will go, given the mildness of the acidity.
1 star
Veglio Mauro Castelletto Barolo DOCG 2004
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some red berry fruit supported by slight greenish accents, sweetness (not jam) and some nose tingling smoky spice. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with moderately rich red berry fruit supported by some tart berry fruit acidity and slight sweetness, while the tannins are ample and quite smooth. It's settled, with the fruit not filling in the structure as much as I might have liked, and is rather like something that should have been upstanding but has spread out. I'm not sure how else to describe it, but it's lacking in control.
1 star
Azienda Agricola F.lli Revello
Frazione Annunziata,103
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.revellofratelli.com
Revello Fratelli Vigna Conca Barolo DOCG 2004
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with moderate berry fruit supported by clean spice and some greenish airiness; it's fairly direct. On the palate it's ample, and a bit brighter than I had expected, though it's not really rich; there's moderately intense cherry fruit supported by clean sour acidity, while the tannins are fairly smooth, though they do have a burr to them. The fruit and acidity are a bit settled, and I'd have liked greater depth and liveliness overtones both.
1 star
Revello Fratelli Vigna Giachini Barolo DOCG 2004
Fairly deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, in a very young key, with powerful greenish berry fruit supported by some cedar and some penetrating smoky accents. On the palate it's ample, with bright red berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity, and by smooth tannins that flow into a clean fairly bright cherry finish with plum overtones and tannic underpinning. The palate is as young as the nose, but it is promising, and will do interesting things if given time -- it needs a couple of years to begin to be presentable, and will likely continue from there' in a fairly middle of the road key.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Cascina Ballarin di Viberti Luigi & Figli
Frazione Annunziata, 115
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.cascinaballarin.it
Cascina Ballarin Bricco Rocca Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of alcohol mingled with greenish spice and underlying cherry fruit. No rosa canina, at least not yet. Quite young, and needs a year at least to get its bearings. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense cherry fruit that gains direction from fairly bright berry fruit acidity, and is supported by tannins that at present are badly unsettled, laying down an almost tongue-curling burr. It needs at least a year and more likely two to get its bearings, at which point it will be middle of the road in terms of style.
2 stars
Cascina Ballarin Bussia Barolo DOCG 2004
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with berry fruit supported by spice and some pungent accents as well. On the palate it's ample, with bright cherry fruit supported by brisk cherry lemon acidity that takes center stage, drawing support from tannins that are still young and angular, and flowing into a clean fairly tannic finish. It's woefully young, of the toddler escaped from home sort, and really shouldn't be out yet. With time (2-3 years) I think it will clean up nicely in a fairly traditional key, and also age well for quite some time. But that's in the future. At present it's an angry brat.
Azienda Agricola Stroppiana Oreste di Stroppiana Dario
Frazione Rivalta S. Giacomo, 6
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.cantinastroppiana.com
Stroppiana Oreste Vigna San Giacomo Barolo DOCG 2004 Fairly deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is quite young, but displays a pleasant elegance with red berry fruit mingled with rosa canina and spice, and underlying alcoholic warmth with savory accents. Pleasant, and invites a second sniff. On the palate it's bright, with clean rich cherry fruit supported by delicate berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that are not velvety but do have a steely smoothness to them, and flow into a fairly long clean ripe berry fruit finish. Quite nice, though very much a child; it displays well but has a long growth curve ahead of it, and if I had a few bottles I wouldn't open them any time soon.
2 stars
Tenuta L'Illuminata
Località S.Anna, 30
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://http://www.albeisa.org/it/aziende_scheda.asp?id=202
Tenuta L'Illuminata Tebavio Barolo DOCG 2004
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim fading towards orange. The bouquet is clean, and very young, with greenish accents mingling with red berry fruit and peppery spice that has a cedary underpinning with hints of graphite shavings. On the palate it's ample, with bright cherry plum fruit supported by clean bright cherry acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long clean slightly sour berry fruit finish. Graceful, in a brisk sort of way, and also very young; it could drink now with succulent red meats but will also age quite well for a decade or more, and I would be tempted to allow it a few years of its upward climb. Expect it to become lacy and ethereal with time, gaining considerable finesse.
2 stars
Rivetto dal 1902
Località Loirano, 2
12050 Sinio (CN)
http://www.rivetto.it
Rivetto dal 1902 Leon Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish red berry fruit supported by pleasing spice and a fair amount of alcohol. Youthful vigor in a glass. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry fruit that's smoother than I expected -- not as much acidity, though what is present is quite enough to keep it on its toes, supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean berry fruit finish. It's fairly direct, and will drink well with succulent meats now, though a year or two will certainly contribute depth and complexity. Given the relatively low acidity I'm not sure how much longer I would age it for -- 5-8 years, perhaps.
2 stars
Rivetto dal 1902 Giulin Barolo DOCG 2004
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some greenish accents and spice with underlying citric acidity. But not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with bright berry fruit supported by clean sour cherry acidity, and by fairly smooth tannins that do lay down a youthful veneer and continue into a fairly long clean tannic finish. It's very young, but promising in a ripe but not overripe key, and will drink well with succulent red meats, though I would give it at least a year to get its bearings, and perhaps 2. In terms of total aging, I would guess 10-15 years.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Gagliasso Mario
Borgata Torriglione, 7
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.gagliassovini.it
Gagliasso Mario Rocche Dell'Annunziata Barolo DOCG 2004 Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with powerful slightly greenish forest berry fruit supported by nose tingling spice that has hardwood ash accents. On the palate it's ample, and sweeter than I expected -- there are some residual sugars, though the wine is dry -- with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by warm berry fruit acidity, while the tannins are bright and quite aggressive, laying a splintery veneer over the tongue, and flow into a clean fairly bitter tannic finish. It's a toddler having a bad hair day, but even when it settles it's particular, and to consider it you have to like wines with this sort of residual sugar content. If you don't like it it won't work for you.
1 star
Gagliasso Mario Torriglione Barolo DOCG 2004 Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling towards orange. The bouquet is fairly rich, with pleasing spice mingled with rosa canina and some underlying berry fruit, as well as green leather and slight hardwood ash. Quite a bit going on and nice depth in a very young key. On the palate it's fairly rich, in a languid sort of way, with clean berry fruit supported by deft cherry acidity and by tannins that are warm, slightly greenish, and still quite young -- not velvety yet, though they're headed in that direction, leading into a clean fairly tart finish with some mineral accents. Pleasant, and will drink very well with succulent red meats in the near future, though I think it could climb to considerable heights if allowed to age.
2 stars
Bocchino Eugenio
Frazione Santa Maria Serra, 96a
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.eugeniobocchino.it
Bocchino Eugenio La Serra Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit supported by clean greenish notes and spice, with some savory accents, and, as it opens, rosa canina too. Quite young, but pleasant to sniff and promises well. On the palate it's ample, and rich, with fairly sweet cherry plum fruit -- there's a little residual sugar here -- supported by moderate acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long warm finish. It's quite ripe, of the sort of ripeness that comes with waiting until the very last minute to harvest, and this technique knocks back the acidity, which isn't as evident as I might have liked, not for today, but for the future because aging capacity depends largely upon acidity. This is therefore a wine I would be tempted to drink sooner than later (within 8 years), and because of its rich sweetish fullness, with drier meats. If you like the style you will enjoy it, but if you prefer defter wines you may not.
2 stars
Bocchino Eugenio Lu Barolo DOCG 2004
Fairly deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit supported by tart greenish notes and hints of brown sugar that suggest a degree of overripeness to the wine. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich red berry fruit that does have a slight sweetness to it, and is supported by moderate acidity and by ample fairly sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly sweet finish. It's soft, and I'd have liked more incisiveness to the acidity, though this is a question of stylistic preference more than quality; had the grapes been less ripe when they were picked there would be more acidity, but the tannins wouldn't be as ripe and smooth as they are -- it's a tradeoff, and if you like the style it will work well with red meats that aren't really succulent, say roast beef cooked medium and served with gravy.
2 stars
Mauro Molino
Borgata Gancia, 111 - Frazione Annunziata
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.marcdegrazia.com/mdg/ita/scheda_produ.jsp?KProduttori=73&lingua=ITA
Molino Mauro Vigna Gancia Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with red berry fruit supported by some cedar and some greenish accents with hints of marzipan sweetness that may become rosa canina over the next couple of years. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by delicate berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long clean berry fruit finish. It's pleasant and approachable in a modern key -- wood use is giving way to phenolic ripeness in this regard -- and will drink well with red meats or light stews. Because of the relatively less bright acidity I don't know how long it will age for, though I doubt much more than 10 years.
2 stars
Molino Mauro Vigna Conca Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit supported by greenish accents and some spice, with hints of cocoa and slight brown sugar as well, and some hardwood ash. Quite a bit going on, in a very young key. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by deft, though not too intense berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long clean fruit laced finish with slight savory underpinning. It's approachable in a middle of the road key, and though one could drink it now with a roast or stew it will profit from a couple of years in the cellar, and will age nicely for 8-10. Perhaps not too much more, because there isn't that much acidity.
2 stars
Renato Ratti - Antiche Cantine dell'Abbazia dell'Annunziata
Frazione Annunziata, 7
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.renatoratti.com
Renato Ratti Marcenasco Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of cedar mingled with red berry fruit and hints of sandalwood, together with berry fruit jam. Quite ripe, in a fairly young key. On the palate it's ample and very ripe, with rich fairly sweet cherry and forest berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean, fairly long berry fruit finish. Elegant and deft in a modern fruit driven style, and if you like this style you will enjoy it very much; because of its relative lack of acidity I'm not sure how long I would age it for, though it will hold 3-5 years at least, and will show much better in 2009-10 than it does now. In short, a fruit driven wine for the short term.
2 stars
Renato Ratti Conca Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by some berry fruit jam and by clean sandalwood laced spice. Quite young, yet. On the palate it's ample, and fairly sweet, with rich jammy berry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight underpinning of cedar and flow into a clean fruit laced finish. It's quite elegant in a fruit driven key, and if you like this style you will enjoy it very much; because of its softness it will work well with drier meats. However, it's not (to my mind) true to type with respect to Barolo, which should I think be much more nervous at this stage, and I fear this wine won't age particularly well. In other words, drink it within 5-6 years, and that's soon for a Barolo from a good vintage.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Silvio Grasso di Federico Grasso
Località Cascina Luciani, 112
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.lavinium.com/cgilav/visuazlav.cgi?IDaz=2042
Grasso Silvio Bricco Luciani Barolo DOCG 2004
The Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is delicate, with floral accents and rosa canina mingled with ripe fruit and some delicate cedar; there's something young to it and it's obviously in mid stride though quite nice as it walks. On the palate it's ample and rich, with clean bright berry fruit that gains direction from deft berry fruit acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a clean graceful berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. It's quick to write but quite graceful, and shows great depth and elegance now, it 's one of those wines one hates to pour out at a tasting. It's also very young, and if I were to open a bottle now I'd (justly) expect to hear people muttering about infanticide. A beautiful wine well worth seeking out, and I'd expect it to ge well for 10-15 years.
88-90
Grasso Silvio Ciabot Manzoni Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit supported by greenish jammy accents and pleasing spice. On the palate it's ample, with rich fairly sweet cherry fruit that is directed by deft forest berry fruit acidity, and supported by smooth sweet tannins. Quick to write, but also pleasant to sip, and will drink quite well with red meats in the short term, and has the capacity to age well for at least a decade. I found it growing upon me.
2 stars
Dosio
Frazione Serradenari, 6
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.lavinium.com/cgilav/visuazlav.cgi?IDaz=2697
Dosio Vigneti Barolo DOCG 2004
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is penetrating, with spice and acidity laced with hardwood ash, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit that gains direction from slight mineral acidity and is supported by ample very smooth tannins that gradually fade, leaving the mineral acidity to carry into the finish. It's much more settled than a Barolo this young should be, and I doubt it will live very long.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Bosco Agostino
V. Fontane, 24
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.barolobosco.com/index.htm
Bosco Agostino Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly irch, with berry fruit laced with hints of rosa canina and green leather, and pleasant underlying spice. Quite young, but pleasant and promising. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by clean berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean deft tart berry fruit finish. It's not as bracing as some of the Baroli from Barolo, but displays a pleasing grace in a voluptuous key that though ripe fruit driven preserves sufficient acidity for the wine to be long lived. It will drink quite well with succulent red meats now, but will also age nicely, and I would wait for it.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Deltetto
Corso Alba, 33-43
12043 Canale (CN)
http://www.deltetto.com
Deltetto Sistaglia Barolo DOCG 2004
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish berry fruit supported by spice and sweetish accents; there's not as much finesse as I might have hoped for. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by a degree of sweetness -- some residual sugars here -- and by moderately intense berry fruit acidity, while the tannins are ample and have a splintery burr, which leads into a long plum laced finish with tart tannic underpinning. As things stand now it's muscle bound and not graceful, though this could change.
1 star
Verduno
Alario Claudio Azienda Agricola
Via S. Croce, 23
12055 Diano d'Alba (CN)
http://www.albeisa.org/it/aziende_scheda.asp?id=183
Alario Claudio Riva Barolo DOCG 2004 Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine shifting to orange in the rim. The bouquet is clean and rich, with pleasant cherry fruit supported by green leather and some rosa canina with underlying spice. Considerable finesse, and there's a lot to think about here. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with rich red berry fruit supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long clean fruit laced finish. Very nice in a traditional key, and though one could drink it now to do so would be folly, because it will age very, very well for many, many years. Well worth seeking out if you like this style. One of those wines you hate to pour out at a tasting.
88-90
Alario Claudio Sorano Barolo DOCG 2004 Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense and also very young, with pungent floral accents and some sandalwood mingled with savory spice; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and fairly rich, with clean slightly leathery red berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have considerable brooding power, and flow into a clean finish sweetish (brown sugar) berry fruit supported by fairly smooth tannins. It's ample, powerful, in a slightly overripe key, and also very young; it needs at least a year and probably two to get its bearings, and will be pleasant within this overripe style. If you like it, you will enjoy the wine; it will drink well with richly flavored drier meats.
2 stars
Castello Di Verduno
Via Umberto I, 9
12060 Verduno (CN)
http://www.castellodiverduno.com
Castello di Verduno Massara Barolo DOCG 2004 Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted at first swish, and further swishes don't bring up much either. The doors are locked and nobody's home. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by tired berry fruit acidity and tannins that simply fade, leaving a fairly bright tannic finish. It's too settled and tired to be a young Barolo, but it is.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Fratelli Alessandria
Via Beato Valfrè, 59
12060 Verduno (CN)
http://www.fratellialessandria.it
Alessandria F.lli Monvigliero Barolo DOCG 2004 Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with balsamic notes mingled with clean spice and some savory accents; there's not much in the way of fruit, but it does have an appealing grace in a decidedly traditional key. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich leathery red berry fruit supported by clean bright acidity, and by ample sweet tannins with a hint of saddle leather to them that flow into a clean tart finish with tannic underpinning. Pleasant in a traditional key, and if you like this style you'll enjoy it very much. If you prefer a younger fruit driven style you won't like it immediately, but if you set it aside for a few years you may find it surprising you nicely; expect it to age well for 15 or more years.
2 stars
Alessandria Fratelli Gramolere Barolo DOCG 2004 Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fresh, with rosa canina and savory accents supported by spice and green leather with some underbrush as well, mingled with wood smoke. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long clean tart berry fruit finish. Pleasant, in a rich fruit driven key that's neither overripe nor over oaked, and though it is approachable now and would work well with succulent red meats, I would be tempted to give it a couple of years, and expect it to age well for 15 or more. Expect it to become quite graceful with time.
88
Giordano Ferdinando Via Cane Guido, 47 bis
12050 Alba (CN)
http://www.giordanovini.it
Giordano Vini Barolo DOCG 2004
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with strong greenish balsamic accents mingled with nose tingling wood ash, spice, some savory barnyard tang. Not much fruit, and the overall impression is coarse. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich leathery red berry fruit supported moderate acidity and by ample smooth tannins that flow into a warm rather balsamic finish. It's direct, and I found it a bit tired, and if I had a bottle I would open it sooner than later, and drink it with a steak.
1 star
Terre Del Barolo Via Alba-Barolo, 5
12060 Castiglione Falletto (CN)
http://www.terredelbarolo.com
Terre del Barolo Barolo DOCG 2004 Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is shut tight, of the nobody home variety, and swishing has little effect. At the outset; after several minutes some rosa canina emerges timidly. On the palate it's ample, with soft balsam-laced berry fruit supported by some tart balsamic acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly clean finish with balsamic notes. It's fairly direct in a traditional key, and also a bit more settled than a young Barolo should be; I'd have liked more incisiveness than I found.
1 star
Monforte Azienda Agricola Tenuta Rocca
Località Ornati, 19
12065 Monforte d'Alba (CN)
http://www.tenutarocca.com
Tenuta Rocca Vigna San Pietro Barolo DOCG 2004
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with a great rush of cedar at first swish that settles some, revealing moderate berry fruit and some green leather with nose tingling spice. Very young, in a charged key. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by bright sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a warm vanilla overlay and flow into a fairly long warm tannic finish. It's going to be pleasant in a middle of the road key when it gets there, but at present it is an angry toddler, and though one could press it into service with something quite succulent such as leg of lamb, it will be much more presentable in 3-5 years' time.
2 stars
Bolmida Silvano
Località Bussia, 30
12065 Monforte d'Alba (CN)
http://www.silvanobolmida.com
Bolmida Silvano Bussia Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is quite intense, and surprisingly young for a Barolo, with powerful violets mingled with greenish accents and some underlying cocoa, with fairly bright forest berry fruit holding it all together. This will fade as the wine develops, but is interesting now. On the palate it's bright, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that carry into a long fruit laced tart finish. Pleasant in a vigorous fruit driven key that's not overripe, and will drink well with succulent red meats. It's eminently approachable now, though it also has the capacity to age well for a decade or more, and will be a good choice if you like this fresh vigorous style.
2 stars
Bolmida Silvano Vigne dei Fantini Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, and young, with rich dusky forest berry fruit supported by haunting greenish accents and clean spice, with hints of underlying rosa canina as well. Pleasant, in a young, muscular fruit driven way. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright berry fruit supported by moderately intense berry fruit acidity, and by sweet tannins that have a slight bitter burr to them and flow into a berry fruit finish that fades quickly into fairly long minerality. It's in mid stride in a rich fruit driven key -- not so much finesse and exuberance -- but quite approachable, and will drink well with hearty red meats now, while it also has the capacity to age well for many years.
2 stars
Saffirio Josetta
Frazione Castelletto, 32
12065 Monforte d'Alba (CN)
http://www.lavinium.com/cgilav/visuazlav.cgi?IDaz=2681
Saffirio Josetta Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with rosa canina laced berry fruit that's supported by some deft green leather and by graceful berry fruit acidity that confers a lacy quality to it all. On the palate it's ample, with rich red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long clean berry fruit finish. Pleasant, and quite drinkable, though I'd have perhaps liked a little more acidity in the view of long-term aging, because I fear that it might settle a bit with time. The obvious solution to this consideration is to drink it sooner, say within 5-8 years, rather than hold it for the long haul.
2 stars
Saffirio Josetta Persiera Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is intense, with wet leather mingled with spice and minerality; there's not much fruit, but it's nicely balanced. On the palate it's ample, with rich fairly sweet cherry fruit supported by moderately intense slightly greenish acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight cedary burr to them, and flow into a clean fairly dry berry fruit finish. The fruit is nice, and if you like fruit driven wines that aren't overripe, and aren't bolstered by much acidity you will enjoy it. In the short term it will be quite approachable, in a rich, almost easy to drink sort of way, but I wonder about how long it will age given the relatively slight acidity. The obvious solution, if you like this style, is to drink it sooner.
2 stars
Monti
Frazione Camie Benenti, 39
Località San Sebastiano
12065 Monforte d'Alba (CN)
http://www.paolomonti.it/pagine/ita/vini_barolo.lasso
Monti Bussia Barolo DOCG 2004
Almandine with brownish-black reflections and almandine rim; it looks older than many 2004s. The bouquet is fairly rustic, with balsamic accents mingled into rosa canina with a fair amount of tart spice-laced acidity and hints of green leather. On the palate it's ample, and smoother than I had expected, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are ample and smooth, flowing into a warm dusky tannic finish. It's quite young and in mid stride, but will clean up nicely in a fairly traditional key; my major reservation is that the fruit isn't quite as intense as I might have liked, and it may become leaner as it ages. It will in any case be quite long lived, becoming lacy and ethereal with time, and is a wine you will like if you like this style.
2 stars
Monti Barolo DOCG 2004
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with rosa canina mingled with savory accents and spice, and underlying red berry fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by delicate citric acidity, and by smooth tannins that flow into a fairly long citric finish. I'd have liked more fruit, because the structure is quite sufficient for considerably more fruit than there is, and it consequently comes across as flat.
1 star
Gemma
Via Mazzini, 19
12050 Serralunga d'Alba (CN)
http://www.gemmacantine.it
Gemma Giblin Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a greenish way, with bell pepper vegetal accents mingled with spice and some rosa canina with pleasing warmth as well. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry plum fruit that gains depth from slight sweetness, and is supported by acidity sufficient to keep it from settling, though not enough to make it leap, and by ample sweet tannins that work like a large wave from beneath the surface, flowing into a fairly long plum laced finish. It's quite ripe, and deftly done, and if you like bigger softer fruit driven wines you will enjoy it. Because of the low acidity I'm not sure it will age well beyond 5 more years, however, and if you prefer the tighter more traditional style it won't work for you at all. Because of its soft richness I would drink it with drier meats, or even aged but not really piquant cheeses.
2 stars
Gemma Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and quite young, with strong cedary accents supported by greenish notes and some hints of sea salt, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with powerful red berry fruit supported by clean slightly leathery tannins and bright berry fruit acidity that flow into a fairly long rather bitter finish with cedary accents. It's powerful, and very young, with the nose still up in the air, and though I did like the palate I'd have liked slightly brighter fruit; the interaction between fruit and tannins flattens the fruit some and it comes across as more settled than it might. The oak overshadows more than it should.
1 star
Addari Loredana Azienda Agricola Podere Ruggeri Corsini
Località Bussia Corsini
12065 Monforte d'Alba (CN)
http://www.albeisa.org/it/aziende_scheda.asp?id=149
Addari Loredana Podere Ruggeri Corsini Corsini Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit mingling with green leather and some rosa canina, with pleasant spice as well; it's quite young, but promising, and I found it growing upon me. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by clean fairly bright acidity , and by smooth tannins that do have a glancing burr to them, and flow into a warm tannic finish. The palate isn't as interesting the nose, and while not settled lacks verve and direction, like a person without ambition. It could be a phase the wine is in because it's very young, but could also be its character. Time will tell.
1 star
Podere Rocche Dei Manzoni
Località Manzoni Soprani, 3
12065 Monforte d'Alba (CN)
http://www.rocchedeimanzoni.it
Podere Rocche die Manzoni Vigna Cappella Di Santo Stefano Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, in a young way, with intense wet green leather mingled with some underbrush and cedar-laced spice that confers warmth, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by slight berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that lay a very dry youthful cedar veneer over the tongue, flowing into a decidedly dry tannic finish with underlying bitterness. It's chewing on a big load of oak at present, and to be honest I'm not sure how well it will digest it because the fruit is a little riper and a little less intense than I would have wanted for this task. I fear it will settle with time.
1 star
Podere Rocche dei Manzoni Vigna D'La Roul Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and unidirectional, with a considerable rush of bitter cedar with dusky overtones and hints of cocoa that covers all else. Oak in a glass. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright red berry fruit supported by moderately intense almost lemony acidity that manages to make its presence felt before being swallowed by cedary tannins that lay down a blocky wash and cover all. The fruit was nice, but the barrel intense, and at present the barrel is winning the battle. The wine is of course very young, and there's acidity sufficient for it to age for a decade or more, but the heavy oak penalizes it now.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Sordo Giovanni
Via Alba-Barolo, 63
Borgata Garbelletto - 12060
Castiglione Falletto (CN)
http://www.sordogiovanni.it
Sordo Giovanni Ceretta di Perno Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rustic, with fairly intense balsamic acidity laced with wet stable straw and underlying spice that adds depth. Rustic, but nice balance and is interesting to talk to. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright tart cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long tart finish. It's pleasant on the palate, and also promises to age quite well; if you like the style you will enjoy it, and though one could drink it now it will I think age quite well for 10-15 years.
2 stars
Poderi Aldo Conterno
Località Bussia, 48
12065 Monforte d'Alba (CN)
http://www.poderialdoconterno.com
Poderi Aldo Conterno Colonello Barolo DOCG 2004
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling towards orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar-laced berry fruit supported by splice and hints of rosa canina. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry and forest berry fruit supported by bright sour cherry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh finish. It's quite young, but one could drink it with succulent red meats even now. However, I think it will age quite well, increasing considerably in complexity with the passage of time. This said, it's quite pleasant in a ripe, but not overripe fruit driven key, and the balance between acidity and fruit is quite nice; it's an excellent wine with which to approach the appellation if you are new to Barolo.
2 stars
Alessandria Gianfranco
Località Manzoni, 13
12065 Monforte d'Alba (CN)
http://www.gianfrancoalessandria.com
Alessandria Gianfranco San Giovanni Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cedar and spice more than fruit, and some alcohol as well. On the palate it's ample, and brighter than one might have expected from the nose, with lively cherry fruit supported by a combination of sour cherry acidity and tannins that do have some cedary overtones but aren't really oaky, and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. The nose is in a stupid phase, I think, but the palate offers a pleasing combination of grace and power. It needs time, 12-18 months, for the nose to begin to come together, and will age nicely for at least a decade and probably much more. It grew on me. Worth seeking out.
2 stars
Alessandria Gianfranco Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though not shut tight, and swishing brings up berry fruit with some savory accents and hints of iodine. It needs time. On the palate it's ample, and graceful, with pleasant sour cherry fruit supported by clean sour berry fruit acidity that flows into a long clean sour finish. It's pleasant in a rather willowy way, and if you like the fairly acidic traditional style you will enjoy it, though it needs at least a year and probably two for the nose to develop. I would expect it to age well for a decade or more, becoming ethereal and lacy with time.
2 stars
Poderi Colla
San Rocco Seno d'Elvio, 82
10051 Alba (CN)
http://www.podericolla.it
Poderi Colla Dardi Le Rosse Bussia Barolo DOCG 2004
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling towards orange. The bouquet is delicate, with rosa canina mingled with spice and some cherry fruit, and hints of eucalyptus and heather as well, while there is also some acidity to hold things up. Nice balance in a very young traditional key. On the palate it's full, with rich, delicate cherry fruit that has some leathery accents and gains direction from moderately intense berry fruit acidity, while the tannins are ample and smooth, and flow into a clean slightly bitter finish. It's pleasant, but a touch settled, and I found myself wishing for greater depth on the palate. Quibbling here, because it will age nicely, becoming graceful with time, but a touch more oomph would have been nice.
2 stars
Costa Di Bussia - Tenuta Arnulfo
Località Bussia, 26
12065 Monforte d'Alba (CN)
http://www.costadibussia.com
Costa di Bussia Tenuta Arnulfo Costa di Bussia Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling towards orange. The bouquet is powerful, and young, with elegant rosa canina mingled with hints of raw beef and berry fruit with underlying spice. Pleasant in a very young traditional key. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful cherry fruit supported by clean berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that are already displaying steely smoothness wrapped in velvet, and it all flows into a clean rather soft finish. Quite elegant in a traditional key, and it's already drinkable now though it will richly reward those blessed with the patience to give it the time it needs -- I would expect it to age well for 10-15 years and perhaps longer, gaining great finesse with the passage of time. Well worth seeking out if you like this style.
88-90
Costa Di Bussia Tenuta Arnulfo Campo dei Buoi Barolo DOCG 2004
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some cherry plum fruit laced with some spice. Not quite shut tight, but it's trying. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by considerable bitterness that has savory accents, and flows into a clean bitter finish with a savory cedar-laced tannic underpinning. I found myself wanting greater depth to the fruit. In its defense, the wine is quite young, and needs time to get its bearings and come together.
1 star
Armando Parusso di Fratelli Parusso
Località Bussia, 55
12065 Monforte d'Alba (CN)
http://www.parusso.com
Parusso Armando Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents mingling with cedar and hints of caramel, and also spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit that has an annoying bitter vein to it, and is supported more by tannins that have a warm burr than by acidity, flowing into a bitter finish. It's not as fresh as I might have liked, and the palate is more settled than a young Barolo should be.
1 star
Seghesio Fratelli
Località Castelletto, 19
12065 Monforte d'Alba (CN)
http://www.lavinium.com/cgilav/visuazlav.cgi?IDaz=2687
Seghesio Fratelli Vigneto La Villa Barolo DOCG 2004
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is shut tight, with swishing bringing up little if anything. Hints of rosa canina after several minutes. On the palate it's fairly rich, with lively red berry fruit supported by clean berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly tart cherry finish with long tannic underpinning. It's pleasant on the palate and absent on the nose, a combination of factors indicating extreme youth and a need for time to develop. It will, I think, do interesting things, but won't be ready to open before 2010 at the earliest, and will age nicely for many years thereafter, becoming lacy with time.
It's too young to score.
Cà Brusà
Località Manzoni, 26
12065 Monforte d'Alba (CN)
http://www.cabrusa.com
Cà Brusà Vigna D'Vai Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is very immature, but reveals some rosa canina mingled with savory accents and slight spice. On the palate it's ample, with fairly direct red berry fruit supported by clean berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that do have a slight burr, and flow into a clean tart finish. Very young, in an ample, rather direct key, an it needs at least a year if not two to get its bearings, after which it will age well for many years. I found myself wishing there were better definition to the fruit and also more richness than I found.
1 star
Serralunga
Cantine Ascheri Giacomo
Via G. Piumati, 23
12042 Bra (CN)
http://www.ascherivini.it
Ascheri Giacomo Sorano Coste & Bricco Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up moderate berry fruit supported by greenish accents and slight balsamic notes with underlying sea salt; it's clearly in mid-stride. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by fairly brisk slightly greenish cherry acidity, and by tannins that are a touch dry, with splintery greenish accents, and this is youth; the finish is clean and tart. It's going to be extremely elegant in a few years -- starting in 2010 -- and age very well for many more, but at present it's going in several directions at once. In other words, something to set aside for the future, and if you like the fairly traditional style you will enjoy it.
2 stars
Ascheri Giacomo Sorano Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep almandine with almandine rim and black reflections. The bouquet is rich, with elegant berry fruit supported by clean slightly greenish accents and pleasing berry fruit acidity; though it's quite young there's considerable depth. On the palate it's full with rich red berry fruit supported by deft acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long, long sour cherry finish with tannic underpinning. Great elegance, and though one could drink it now with a steak or roast, it will richly reward those with the patience necessary to give it time. Well worth seeking out to drink if you must, and to set aside otherwise.
88-90
Azienda Agricola Grimaldi Bruna
Via Roddino
12050 Serralunga d'Alba (CN)
http://www.grimaldibruna.it
Grimaldi Bruna Badarina Vigna Regnola Barolo DOCG 2004
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim tending towards orange. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up some spice with hints of graphite. Not much fruit, however. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by clean berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean berry fruit finish, and while its quick to write there's considerable harmony, and it will drink nicely with succulent grilled meats and such. But it does need another year at least for the nose to come together, because at present it's unsettled. Expect it to age well for 10-15 years and perhaps more. A wine well worth waiting for.
2 stars
Cantina Gigi Rosso
Strada Alba-Barolo, 20
12060 Castiglione Falletto (CN)
http://www.gigirosso.com
Cantina Gigi Rosso Airone Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some savory accents mingled with rosa canina and hints of wood smoke. On the palate it's bright, with rich berry fruit supported by clean berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have considerable vigor to them, and flow into a clean rich berry fruit finish. It's very young, a toddler on its first step, but promises very well, and if the nose follows the trail the palate is now blazing will become most impressive with time, displaying a very nice combination of power and finesse. But that's in the future; at present it's a baby worth keeping an eye out for.
2 stars
Massolino
Piazza Cappellano, 8
12050 Serralunga d'Alba (CN)
http://www.massolino.it
Massolino Vigna Rionda Margheria Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with medicinal accents mingled with wood smoke and green leather with hints of underlying cedar as well. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by some brambly acidity and ample tannins that have a warm cedar-laced burr to them and flow into a warm rather angry peppery savory tannic finish. I'd have liked greater richness overtones the fruit, which is not as bright as it might have been, and consequently comes across flat. In its defense it is very young and as of yet unsettled, and in any case it will, because of the bitter power of the tannins, drink well with succulent red meats. But give it time.
1 star
Massolino Vigna Rionda Barolo 2002 Riserva
One might think this an act of courage, and it would be in, for example, Montalcino, but in the Barolo production area the weather cleared after a last bad hailstorm in the beginning of September, and was perfect thereafter. The wine is almandine with black reflections and almandine rim fading towards orange. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish accents laced with balsam and some sea salt, and hints of green leather as well. Nice balance, and though it's clearly not from a great vintage it's not a disaster either. On the palate it's ample and fairly soft, with delicate balsamic berry fruit supported by warm tart acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly tart finish that's rather long with delicate balsamic underpinning. It's not a wine that one would set aside to use to celebrate an important occasion with friends, but it does have a degree of grace to it, and has a story to tell as well, which those willing to listen to will enjoy. In other words, it's a wine for the curious wine lover. As such, it has a particular and devoted audience, and if you are a member, you will much enjoy it.
2 stars
Cascina Cucco
Via Mazzini, 11
12030 Serralunga d'Alba (CN)
http://www.cascinacucco.it
Cascina Cucco Vigna Cucco Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, with swishing bringing up some cedar and bitter accents mingled with wood smoke, but less than I might have hoped for in terms of fruit. On the palate it's ample, and quite smooth, with moderate berry fruit overshadowed by cedary bitterness that flows into a fairly long savory finish with a pronounced dry tannic underpinning. The weakness of the fruit leads to its being flatter than a young Barolo should be, and it will only settle further with time, I fear.
1 star
Cascina Cucco Cerrati Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some spice mingled with greenish accents. Not much fruit. On the palate it's fairly bright, with dusky berry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit and considerable cedary pencil shaving bitterness that flows into a long decidedly bitter tannic finish. There's a lot of oak here -- enough to reduce the acidity too -- and I found it to be excessive though there is sufficient fruit to stand up to it, and perhaps in the long run balance it. If you like rich heavily oaked red wines it will work for you, but you have to like this style.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Pira Luigi
Via XX Settembre, 9
12050 Serralunga D'Alba (CN)
http://www.lavinium.com/cgilav/visuazlav.cgi?IDaz=2199
Pira Luigi Vigna Margheria Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. Quite charged. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some spice and slight acidity with hints of wood smoke. On the palate it's fairly rich, with red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by tannins that have a warm cedary burr and flow into a clean cedar-laced tannic finish. It's big, and very young, and at present disjointed; it needs at least a couple of years to figure out what it's doing and where it's going, and probably several more thereafter to come together. This said, I think it will be powerful, in a fairly middle-of-the- road style.
1 star
Cascina Luisin
Via Rabajà, 23
12050 Barbaresco (CN)
Tel: 0173 635154
Cascina Luisin Léon Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with savory spice mingled with medicinal accents and hardwood ash. It's fairly aggressive, and there's not much fruit, though some tart berry fruit does emerge with time. On the palate it's bright, with elegant red berry fruit supported by clean fairly rich berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long clean sour berry fruit finish. The palate is much more convincing than the nose at present, and is actually quite pleasant, and also suggestive of a long life to come. But the wine needs time, at least a couple of years, and if you have the patience to give it longer -- even much longer -- it will richly reward you. I wouldn't think of opening it before 2011-13.
2 stars
Palladino - Azienda Vitivinicola di Palladino Maurilio
Piazza Cappellano, 9
12050 Serralunga d'Alba (CN)
http://www.palladinovini.com
Palladino Vigna Broglio Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and frankly oaky, with an initial rush of cedar that's coupled with chemical accents and hints of rosa canina. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and moderate acidity; given the youth of the wine I'd have preferred brighter acidity, because though it does make for greater aggressiveness in youth it also keeps the wine from settling as it ages, and this could be a problem here -- I'm not sure how long-lived it will be.
1 star
Palladino Serralunga Barolo DOCG 2004
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents mingled with berry fruit and some cedar. On the palate it's fairly rich, with lanfuid cherry and forest berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and moderate acidity, which flow into a clean fairly sweet tannic finish with berry fruit underpinning. It's elegant, in an ample smooth key, and if you like this style will drink quite well with drier meats. I would, however, have preferred greater tightness and definition from the tannins, because if they're this smooth now, with an acidity of this soft kind, what will they do with time? In short, a big soft Barolo to be drunk fairly soon.
1 star
Manzone Paolo
Località Borgata Reale, 2
12050 Sinio (CN)
http://www.barolomeriame.com
Manzone Paolo Meriame Barolo DOCG 2004
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is decidedly rustic, with a rush of balsamic acidity mingled with stable straw and cow flop. It will make a delicate person's hair stand on end. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright berry fruit supported by brisk acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long clean slightly leathery berry fruit finish. If you like the style, it is pleasant and will also age quite nicely. But you have to like wines that are (at least when young) rustic on the nose. With time, I think it will do interesting things.
2 stars
Manzone Paolo Serralunga Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with bright fresh jammy berry fruit supported by some mentholated accents, and by clean spice as well. Fresh. On the palate it's ample and rich, with fairly powerful jammy cherry plum fruit supported by clean citric acidity that does a nice job of directing the wine, and by ample smooth tannins that are fairly tightly woven, and flow into a clean plum laced finish. It's pleasant in a rather soft overripe key, and in the short run will drink well with flavorful drier meats, though I wonder how well it will age given its softness. If you like the style it will be a good bet for the immediate future, but you have to like this big soft style, which is far from traditional Barolo.
2 stars
Cà Romè
Via Rabajà, 36
12050 Barbaresco (CN)
http://www.carome.com
Cà Romè Vigna Cerretta Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some green leather mingled with fairly ripe red berry fruit. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by clean berry fruit acidity, and by ample sweet tannins. It's quite ripe, but not overripe, and also pleasingly smooth, and if you like this big soft style it will work well with red meats, including fairly succulent (but not fatty cuts). It's quite successful within a softer context, and will age nicely for a few years, though I wouldn't ask it to age too long because the tannins are already smooth now. If you prefer a tighter, brasher traditional style you'll like it less.
2 stars
Fontanafredda - Tenimenti di Barolo e Fontanafredda Via Alba, 15
12050 Serralunga d'Alba (CN)
http://www.fontanafredda.it
Fontanafredda La Rosa Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with clean rosa canina mingled with some berry fruit and slight goudron; young but nicely balanced. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful red berry fruit supported by moderately intense acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. It's not tight, but does have a certain grace to it, and will drink well with drier meats.
2 stars
Fontanafredda Serralunga D'Alba Barolo DOCG 2004
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is clean and quite ripe, with jammy berry fruit supported by clean spice. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit with some sweet jammy overtones supported by moderately intense acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean long finish. It's pleasant, in an ample key, and will drink well with succulent grilled meats or roasts; because of its softness I'm not sure how long I would age it, however.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Guido Porro Via Alba, 1
12050 Serralunga d'Alba (CN)
http://www.langhe.net/porro/
Porro Guido Vigna Lazzairasco Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish accents and some berry fruit supported by vegetal underpinning. Young too, and disjointed; it's obviously still finding itself. On the palate it's much further along, with ample ripe cherry plum fruit that gains direction from moderate slightly mentholated berry fruit acidity, and is supported by tannins that have a clean burr overtones them and flow into a fairly long clean tannic finish. It's pleasant, in an ample and rather voluptuous key, and also very young; it needs another year to come together, and will age well for several more, though the tannins are a little soft for really long aging. Also, the freshness on the palate is nice, so I might be tempted to give it just a year or at the most two. If you like this ample fruit driven style you will enjoy it.
2 stars
Porro Guido Vigna S. Caterina Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich though quite young, with clean spice mingled with alcohol and some menthol. On the palate it's fairly rich, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by clean sweet tannins and by moderately intense berry fruit acidity that flows into a clean tannic finish with underlying bitterness. It's well made in an ample soft key, and if you like this ripe fruit driven style you will enjoy it, though I'm not sure how long it will age for, because the acidity is low and the tannins are quite smooth already, when the wine is still quite young.
2 stars
Baudana Luigi
Frazione Baudana, 43
12050 Serralunga d'Alba (CN)
http://www.baudanaluigi.com
Baudana Luigi Cerretta Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with some berry fruit but to a greater degree cedar mingled with some savory accents and underlying menthol. On the palate it's ample and full, with fairly rich slightly bitter berry fruit supported by clean cedary tannins; the character absent from the scene is acidity, and the wine is therefore already fairly settled now. It can only settle further with time, and it is therefore something you should only consider in the short term, and only if you like ample smooth soft fruit driven wines.
1 star
Baudana Luigi Baudana Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is penetrating, with greenish accents and a fair amount of spice, but not much fruit. It's very young and though not off-putting isn't really inviting either. On the palate it's maple and rich, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that are already quite smooth, and flow into a warm clean plum laced finish. It's a bit overripe, and this has softened the fruit and smoothed the tannins to a degree that it will be pleasant to drink now if you like this ample ripe fruit driven style, but won't age well for more than a few years. I would, however, give the nose a year to get its bearings.
2 stars
Germano Ettore - Azienda Agricola di Germano Sergio
Borgata Cerretta, 1
12050 Serralunga d'Alba (CN)
http://www.germanoettore.com
Germano Ettore Prapò Barolo DOCG 2004 Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with greenish berry fruit supported by some greenish accents and slight spice with hints of rosa canina too. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by deft sour cherry acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long fruit laced finish with some bitter tannic undertones. It's pleasant, in a fresh lively key, and will drink quite well with succulent red meats now, though it also has the capacity o age well for many years, and will do interesting things in the future. I would hold it for a year or two, and expect it to age well for a decade or more.
2 stars
Germano Ettore Cerretta Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some medicinal accents mingled with slight greenness and spice. It has a ways to go. On the palate it's ample, and quite smooth, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by moderate cherry acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long finish that gains depth from cherry fruit acidity. Pleasant, and fruit driven though not as overripe as many of the other Serralunga wines from this year; rather there's cherry and forest berry fruit, and though I don't think it will age for too long because the tannins are fairly soft, it will drink nicely within the next 3-6 years with succulent not too fatty roasts or stews, and if you like this style you will enjoy it. Though I tend to prefer brighter brasher more traditional Barolo, I found it growing upon me.
2 stars
Pio Cesare
Via Cesare Balbo, 6
12051 Alba (CN)
http://www.piocesare.it
Pio Cesare Ornato Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by some balsamic notes and spice with underlying savory accents as well. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by clean plum acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long cherry plum finish. It's a bit overripe, but not soft, and the wine will drink well with drier meats in the fairly near future, say within 3-5 years. I would hesitate to age it for much longer, however because the tannins are already soft. If you like the tighter traditional style of Barolo it won't work for you, or at least not as well, though there are things to ponder, but if you like smoother softer fruit driven wines you will enjoy it. Very much, even.
2 stars
Pio Cesare Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with red berry fruit supported by some greenish accents and underlying greenness; more swishing also brings up rosa canina. Muted, and still working on where it's going. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity, and by smooth soft tannins that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish with direction from acidity and tannic underpinning. Within the context of Serralunga it's a breath of fresh air, with fruit that's ripe but not overripe, pleasant acidity, and tannins that are providing direction without being settled. In other words, it's more what I would expect of a Barolo, and it will age gracefully too.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Giovanni Rosso di Rosso Davide
Via Foglio, 18
Località Baudana, 6
12050 Serralunga d'Alba (CN)
http://www.giovannirosso.com
Rosso Giovanni Serralunga Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some spice and hints of wood smoke. Not much fruit however. On the palate it's ample, with fairly tart berry fruit supported by brash, almost fiery acidity and by tannins that have a considerable burr to them and flow into a warm tart finish. It's squalling like a toddler having a temper tantrum, and needs at least a year, perhaps two to settle down and figure what it wants to be when it grows up. I have a feeling it could do nice things in a traditional key because the acidity is definitely brash enough, and the fruit is headed in the right direction, but it's a bit soon to do more than guess.
Almost Wordless Wednesday: Between Here And There
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I took this shot during the Pelleginaggio Artusiano in the spring of 2011.
The mirror is somewhere between Castrocaro Terme and Portico di Romagna (on
the ...
12 years ago
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