Chianti Rufina Presentation: 2008 Vino D'Annata and 2007 Chianti Rufina Riserva

The introduction I wrote last year still holds, and I will therefore reprint it:.

Of the various "lesser" Chianti appellations that came into being in the 1930s, when legislators provided legal recognition for what was a common practice among wine merchants -- adding the word "Chianti" to any wine from Central Tuscany to associate it with the already renowned wines from the Chianti Classico region, and therefore increase its marketability -- Chianti Rufina is the one that probably least needed the assistance, and in an odd way has been most hindered by the association.

Because the excellence of the Rufina area has long been known: It was one of the four Tuscan wine-making regions singled out by Grand Duke Cosimo III De'Medici in 1716 (he called it Pomino, which is now a distinct appellation; the other three are what is now Chianti Classico, Carmignano, and an area of the Upper Valdarno towards Arezzo whose wine-making significance has since paled).

And also because, of the various "lesser Chiantis" it is the most distinct from Chianti Classico: unlike the others, Chianti Rufina shares no borders with Chianti Classico, and Chianti Rufina is also geographically quite distinct from Chianti Classico. The region is topographically wilder, with the vineyards planted along the flanks of several valleys that extend into the Apennines, and are surrounded by much higher mountains whose cool night breezes guarantee significant day-night temperature excursions that in turn favor the accumulation of aroma-producing compounds in the grapes.

All this leads to Chianti Rufina's wines tending to have distinctive, very well developed bouquets, and also tending to be very long lived, thanks to the relatively cooler temperatures in the vineyards; these cooler temperatures result in higher acidities, and acidity in a wine in turn provides aging potential.

And now to the specifics of the wines presented, the 2008 Chianti Rufina and the 2007 Chianti Rufina Riserva. Both are good, though not truly exceptional vintages - I have the impression that 2007 is slightly superior to 2008, though I am still thinking about this - and both yielded fine wines in a variety of styles.

One thing I did note was, in some producers, a greater emphasis on ripeness and concentration, and relatively lower acidities coupled with high alcohol contents. These characteristics come about when the winemaker uses the criterion of polyphenolic ripeness (the ripeness and maturity of tannins) rather than sugar content to decide when to begin to harvest, and are due to the fact that polyphenolic ripeness lags behind sugar content; by the time it is reached the sugar levels have climbed enough to produce wines with 14 or more percent alcohol, while grape acidities, which decline with increasing ripeness, are down. To be quite honest, I am not a fan of polyphenolic ripeness, and have explained why here.


And Now, The Wines:

Azienda Agricola Colognole

Azienda Agricola Colognole Chianti Rufina DOCG 2008
Deep cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is quite fresh, with violet laced cherry fruit that has some slightly jammy undertones and is supported by delicate acidity. Youthful and pleasant. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense fairly bright sour cherry fruit supported by brisk mineral acidity and tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a bright finish. It's scrappy, and if you like this style, which is far removed from studied, smooth, polished wines, it will work very well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and will also be nice with fried meats and vegetables. Worth seeking out if you like the style.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Colognole Riserva del Don Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with a nice balance between cedar and berry fruit, and some slightly brambly balsamic acidity as well. On the palate it's ample, with rich red berry fruit supported by smooth dusky tannins that have an underlying cedar dust bitterness, and by moderately intense almost citric acidity that flow into a clean rather bitter berry fruit finish. It's quite young, but will be going places, and will work quite well with succulent meats or hearty stews. Expect it to age well for a decade or more
2 stars


Azienda Agricola Frascole

Azienda Agricola Frascole Chianti Rufina DOCG 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry impenetrable. The bouquet is quite fresh, with jammy red berry fruit that does have a greenish vegetal underpinning and some red berry fruit acidity. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with rich cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have a deft decidedly bitter burr and flow into a clean bitter finish. Pleasant, and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews, though I might have liked a little more acidity to it -- it's not flat, but the tannins carry as much as the acidity, and I'm not sure what its prospects are for aging. In short, a wine to drink within 2-3 years, I think.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Frascole Riserva Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with tart berry fruit laced with balsamic cedar and some wet stable straw. Nice balance and has quite a bit to say, in a fairly traditional key. On the palate it's full, with rich rather dusky berry fruit supported by deft sour berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet savory tannins that flow into a clean rather bitter finish. Again, quick to write, but very nice balance, and will drink quite well with roasts or stews in the near term, while also blessed with the capacity to age for a decade and perhaps more. Quite nice in a traditional key, and worth seeking out if you like the style.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Il Prato

Azienda Agricola Il Prato Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2007
Deep black cherry with black cherry rim. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up moderate berry fruit and some spicy accents with underlying cedar. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with bright berry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and by soft sweet tannins that lay a warm burr over the tongue and flow into a rather bitter tannic finish. It is, for me, overly smooth and overly soft; though there is sufficient acidity to keep it from settling completely it is lacking in definition, and I would expect more from a Riserva.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Travignoli

Villa Travignoli Chianti Rufina DOCG 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and paler rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with spice and red berry fruit supported by greenish acidity and hints of stable straw; nice balance is a slightly rutting key. On the palate it's fairly full, with bright slightly bitter berry fruit supported by fairly rich acidity and moderately intense tannins that drag a warm bitter burr over the tongue and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. Pleasant; it will drink quite well with meat-sauced pasta dishes, stews, and also roasts, and will go quickly.
2 stars

Villa Travignoli Tegolaia Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2007
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with jammy plum fruit supported by cedar and hints of gum Arabic. Distinctly international in feel. On the palate it's ample and rich in a languid sort of way, with cherry plum fruit that takes direction more from graphite bitterness than from acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet graphite laced tannins that flow into a clean rather bitter finish with tannic underpinning and some acidity. Some acidity, and this is important because the wine is not completely settled, and the acidity does contribute some, but I would have liked more of it, because the overall impression is one of soft not quite overabundance. I would have preferred a little less ripeness coupled with more tightness and definition. If you like the style it will drink well with rare, fairly lean meats, along the lines of roast beef.
1 star

Azienda Vinicola Le Coste

Azienda Vinicola Le Coste Chianti Rufina DOCG 2008
Deep pigeon blood ruby cherry rim; it's close to poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense, and dusky, with cedar and some graphite shavings supporting some red berry fruit that has slightly jammy accents. On the palate it's quite direct, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that do have slight brambly cedar accents and flow into a warm tannic finish. The nose is behind the palate at this point; it's not a wine of tremendous complexity or depth, but is pleasant and will support what it's served with (meat based pasta dishes, light stews, simple grilled meats) quite well. When the nose catches up to the palate it will be a nice day-to-day wine.
2 stars

Azienda Vinicola Le Coste Grati Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with cherry ruby rim; poured ink. The bouquet is rich and jammy, with cherries and to a greater degree prunes supported by some cedar and hints of cinnamon stick. Opulent, rather like a buxom starlet in a glass. On the palate it's ample and soft, but not without direction; there's moderately rich cherry fruit supported by moderate sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are fairly smooth, broadly woven, and greenish. I'd have liked more tightness to it -- it spreads every which way -- but the acidity does keep a degree of interest, and it going, perhaps stolidly, but is going, in a chosen direction. It will work well with drier roasts or light stews.
1 star

Cantina Sociale Vicas Tel: +39 055 831 4020

Montulico Chianti Rufina DOCG 2008
Deep black almandine with black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, with brambly acidity and hints of stable straw mingled with some balsamic notes and sea salt. Not much fruit, and stylistically it's a bit more rustic than some. But pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by considerable sour berry fruit acidity that has some balsamic overtones, and by tannins that are fairly aggressive, laying a warm burr over the tongue and flowing into a decidedly tannic finish with warm acidic underpinning. Pleasant if you like the style, which is to the rustic end of the scale, and it will drink well with simple stews or grilled meats, and also with fried meats and vegetables. Given its acidity it will also age well for 5-10 years and perhaps more.
2 stars

Cantine F.lli Bellini

Cantine F.lli Bellini Chianti Rufina DOCG 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with tart berry fruit supported by some acidity and brambly accents. On the palate it's fairly direct, with moderately intense sour berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and smooth brambly tannins that flow into a clean tannic finish. Up front, and a food wine that will do a good job of supporting what it's served with -- hearty soups, meat based pasta dishes, quickly cooked meats and so on. In short, one of those wines one sets a bottle of out at the table, and quickly has to set out another because people drink it while they eat.
1 star

Casa Vinicola Dreolino

Casa Vinicola Dreolino Chianti Rufina DOCG 2008
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with brambly red berry fruit supported by savory accents and some vegetal notes; there are also hints of airy berry fruit jam. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by greenish berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean berry fruit finish. It's a little smoother than some, and rather graceful in a light key; it will drink well with grilled meats or light stews, and I found myself thinking about lamb chops scottadito as I sipped it. Expect it to go quickly, and you will want a second bottle.
2 stars

Casa Vinicola Dreolino Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2007
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with some berry fruit mingled with petroleum and greenish acidity; with more swishing the petroleum fades to reveal brambly berry fruit. On the palate it's fairly direct, with bright red berry fruit supported by clean tannins that are fairly loose, but are clean, and flow into a clean rather tart finish. It's more direct than I would expect a Riserva to be, but I found myself rather enjoying it. It's not a sipping wine, unless you like fairly tart acidity, but it will work nicely with simple roasts or stews.
2 stars

Scopetani s.r.l

Scopetani Risasso Chianti Rufina DOCG 2008
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some red berry fruit supported by cedar and savory accents; it's fairly direct. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that do have a slight burr, and flow into a clean fairly tart finish. A pleasant food wine that will support what it is served with, helping it to shine, and though it's not long on depth nor complexity it will drink well with foods, and that is what wine is all about.
1 star

Scopetani Vigna Macereto Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with black cherry rim. The bouquet is very fresh for a Riserva, with jammy violets mingled with cinnamon and nutmeg spice; it brings to mind Jayne Mansfield stuffed into a glass. On the palate it's ample, soft, and jammy, though there is some underlying acidity to provide direction. I also found it a bit short -- the voluptuousness suddenly stops, leaving try tannins, and to get more of it one must take a second sip. Because of its softness it will work best with drier meats, but to be quite honest I would like more definition and backbone in a Riserva.
1 star

Fattoria Di Basciano Tel: +39 055 839 7034

Fattoria di Basciano Chianti Rufina DOCG 2008
Impenetrable pyrope with lively cherry ruby rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is fresh, with violets and berry fruit supported by hints of graphite shavings and jammy accents. It is a sunny wine. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported more by graphite bitterness than acidity, and this comes as a bit of a surprise; it feels as if they let the grapes ripen very much -- the jam and hints of plum in the berries -- and as a result acidity fell off, and tannins, including oak tannins step forward. If you like the style you will enjoy it, but I prefer a greater role for acidity, especially in Chianti Rufina.
1 star

Fattoria di Basciano Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is frankly oaky, with considerable cedar that has almost milky accents supporting some bitterness and hints of berry fruit, which are largely overshadowed. Very young in a heavily oaked key. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by savory oak-laced tannins that flow into a clean rather bitter savory finish. It is frankly too young, and needs another year to digest the oak that it contains. At which point it will still be oaky, but nice if you like the style

Fattoria di Grignano

Fattoria di Grignano Chianti Rufina DOCG 2008
Lively black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with bright brambly berry fruit supported by greenish accents and hints of gum Arabic. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and by rather thin brambly tannins that flow into a clean rather bitter tannic finish. It's fairly aggressive, and up front, a food wine that will do a nice job of accompanying red sauced pasta dishes, lasagna, and also quickly grilled meats or light stews. If you prefer smoother softer reds it won't work for you -- as a sipping wine -- but it may surprise you at table, because it really will work well with foods.
2 stars

Fattoria di Grignano Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a youthful key, with red berry fruit overshadowed by cedar and spice. In its defense it is very young, and the nose is obviously still coming together. On the palate it's ample, with moderate fruit supported by bitterness and savory notes, which predominate over the fruit. Too much oak, for me.
1 star

Fattoria Il Capitano - Azienda Agricola BalbiTel. +39 055 831 5600

Fattoria il Capitano - Azienda Agricola Balbi Fattoria il Capitano Chianti Rufina DOCG 2008
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with spice and some dusky balsamic notes mingled with stable straw and red berry fruit; it's fairly old style. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards light, with sour berry fruit supported rather flighty tannins that flow into a fairly dry tart tannic finish. Quite direct, and more simple than I might have hoped; I'd also have liked greater richness of fruit.
1 star

Fattoria il Capitano - Azienda Agricola Balbi Fattoria il Capitano Chianti Rufina DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with brambly berry fruit supported by spice, cedar, and some heather. Fairly traditional in feel. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and tannins that have a brambly burr and flow into a clean rather brambly finish. Pleasant in a traditional key, and is a food wine of the sort you can set out with pasta dishes, simple grilled meats, or light stews, in the certainty that the bottle will go quickly. Not long on depth nor complexity, but quite drinkable.
2 stars

Fattoria il Lago

Fattoria il Lago Chianti Rufina DOCG 2008
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with slightly jammy berry fruit supported by dusky notes and tart berry fruit acidity with underlying savory accents. On the palate it's direct, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have yet to integrate into the wine; rather, they are rather dry and work from the outside as it were. The effect is rather disjointed.
1 star

Fattoria Il Lago Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with cherry ruby rim; poured ink. The bouquet is fairly powerful, with cedar mingled with cherry plum fruit and some almost sandalwood spice. One has the impression, also from the color, that the grapes ripened considerably before they were picked. On the palate it's ample and quite soft, with plum fruit supported by alcohol and dusky tannic graphite bitterness, while there is also some acidity, but not very much, and it flows into a graphite-laced bitter finish. I found it excessively smooth and soft, with acidity wanting; bitterness carries it but bitterness is less interesting.
1 star

Fattoria I Veroni

Fattoria I Veroni Chianti Rufina DOCG 2008
Barrel sample
Black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with considerable wet stable straw and some spice, mingled with lathered horse. In short, animal. On the palate it's pleasant, though a touch softer than I might have wanted, with moderately intense sour berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that also contribute dusky bitterness, but only moderate acidity; the tannins and bitterness do more to carry the wine than the acidity, and though they do a good job more acidity would have been better.

Fattoria I Veroni Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2007
Barrel sample
Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is disjointed, with much oak -- greenish cedar accents, in particular -- combining with cherry plum fruit; it's obviously developing. On the palate it's its ample, soft, and brooding, with powerful plum fruit supported by tannic bitterness that has smoky accents, and slightest of acidities that flow into a plum laced finish. Very big, very soft, and very ripe, with a fair amount of oak too; if you like the style you will like it. If you prefer the scrappier more traditional style you will not.

Fattoria Lavacchio

Fattoria Lavacchio Il Cedro Chianti Rufina DOCG 2008
Deep pyrope ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, in a languid sort of way, with plum cherry fruit supported by some graphite shavings and sweetness; one has the impression that the grapes were very ripe when picked, and not particularly acidic. With further swishing some greenish accents also emerge, but the basic cast remains. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich bitter berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by warm acidity that though not too pronounced is more than I expected to encounter from the nose; the finish is decidedly bitter and cedar laced. It's a bit up the air yet, and needs a few more months to come together. I would have, however, preferred more acidity and less bitterness; I think it will settle quickly.
1 star

Fattoria Lavacchio Cedro Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is quite ripe, and rather luscious, with plum cherry fruit supported by spice and cedary accents. Decidedly voluptuous. On the palate it's less rich than I had expected, with considerable cedar-laced bitterness but not much fruit. I would have expected more.
1 star

Fattoria Selvapiana

Fattoria Selvapiana Chianti Rufina DOCG 2008
Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, which can happen in a barrel sample, though swishing brings up brambly berry fruit and some sour berry fruit acidity. Promising. On the palate it's bright, with rich berry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm tart berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. It's quick to write, but harmonious, and though it is not really together yet -- it brings to mind a puzzle whose pieces are in their respective positions but spread out -- will come together quite nicely, and bring joy to a meal. In short, a wine to wait for, because it will be worth the wait.

Fattoria Selvapiana Vigneto Bucerchiale Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2007
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is a bit disjointed - this can happen with a barrel sample -- but reveals bright berry fruit and berry fruit jam, with nice underlying acidity. Still very much up in the air. On the palate it's bright, with rich cherry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a sweetish cast to them and flow into a clean dry tannic finish. Promising, and will go places, though it will need at least a couple of years form when it is bottled to come into its own.

Fattorie Galiga e Vetrice

Fattoria Galiga e Vetrice Villa di Vetrice Chianti Rufina DOCG 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry impenetrable. The bouquet is fresh and very young, with lively red berry fruit with some jammy sweet accents and hints of violets and -- one writes what one smells -- bubblegum. Direct and up front. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have some graphite bitterness, and flow into a bitter almost mineral finish. It's ample, soft, and with fruit that's a bit riper than I might have liked -- more plum than berry, and the acidity doesn't have a firm hand on the tiller.
1 star

Fattoria Galiga e Vetrice Villa di Vetrice Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2007
Barrel sample
Deep pyrope ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is quite fresh, surprisingly so for a Riserva, with jammy berry fruit mingled with candied peaches. This can happen with a barrel sample. On the palate it's moderately intense, with rather thin sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and moderately full tannins that have some mineral accents and flow into a rather sour finish. There's not as much depth as I would expect from a Riserva, but it will drink well with foods.

Marchese Gondi

Marchese Gondi San Giuliano Chianti Rufina DOCG 2008
Impenetrable pyrope with cherry ruby rim. Looks quite young, and is also inky. The bouquet is eye opening, with jammy berry fruit supported by nutmeg and candied fruit; I have the impression that the grapes were extremely ripe when they were harvested, and I'm not finding any of the brambly accents nor zestiness I associate with Rufina. The palate is not completely flat, but does have jammy fruit supported by cedary accents with some hazelnut notes as well, and hints of cold coffee. It's a bit disquieting, rather like when one steps into a hole in the dark -- this is not what I expect of Marchesi Gondi, and while the second sip reveals some berry fruit acidity, and underlying tannins, I find myself hoping that what we see is the vintage, and not a change in technique (a new emphasis on polyphenolic ripeness) on the part of the winery. I miss the tight zesty acidity and bracing tannins of vintages past; rich ripe fruit is a poor substitute.
1 star

Marchese Gondi Pian dei Sorbi Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with black cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is powerful, with jammy cherry fruit laced with prunes and underlying sweetness; there is also cedar and some vegetal accents. Frankly voluptuous, and fairly international in style. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have a cedary underpinning. The palate is much more traditional than the nose, which is (I hope) in a phase. In short, the wine is up in the air and won't really know what it wants to be before it comes back down to ground, and that will take a couple of years. If it follows the palate it will be interesting, and will also have nice aging potential. But only time will tell.

Podere il Pozzo

Podere il Pozzo Chianti Rufina DOCG 2008
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, in a rather rustic key, with cherry fruit supported by balsamic acidity and some animal notes, in particular wet straw, and some underlying graphite as well. Nice balance. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by brisk cherry acidity and by tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a tart tannic finish with some sour cherry accents. Pleasant in a direct way, and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews, and also has the acidity necessary to work well with fried meats or vegetables.
2 stars

Podere il Pozzo VignaVecchia Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and some garnet in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, in a rustic key, with balsamic notes and stable straw mingled with brambly acidity; there's also some sour berry fruit. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright cherry plum fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity, and by smooth, nicely balanced cedar laced tannins that flow into a warm berry fruit finish. It needs another year or perhaps two to come together, but promises well, and will work nicely with hearty roasts or stews.
2 stars

Bellini Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with hints of almandine in the rim. The bouquet is moderately intense in an old school way, with warm rather tart red berry fruit supported by hints of leather and some cedar. Fairly direct, but pleasant; it brings back memories. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately rich berry fruit supported by tannins that have greenish notes, and by moderate acidity; it's frankly old style, and makes me think of the bottles we used to have when we went out to restaurants in the 70s -- someone not fogged by nostalgia will likely say that the fruit isn't rich enough, and that the tannins, which are rather dry, overshadow, but the wine will drink nicely with foods and is one of those things that -- in my experience -- can go very fast. Not, perhaps, with the "refined" wine drinker, but very much with people for whom wine is a part of the table setting. In short, if you like this style you will enjoy it. But it's not for everyone.
1 star

Castllo di Nipozzano - Marchesi de'Frescobaldi

Castello di Nipozzano - Marchesi de'Frescobaldi Nipozzano Riserva Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and gives an impression of developing; there's cedar with deft spice and some red berry fruit, and it has a pondered feel to it, but has yet to come together. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a cedary underpinning from small oak that gradually emerges, and predominates in the finish, accompanied by some savory accents. It's not quite a work in progress, but does need another year at least to come together, at which point it will be pleasant in a deftly oaked fruit driven international style. Expect it to age well for 8-10 years at least.
2 stars

Castello di Nipozzano - Marchesi de'Frescobaldi Vigneto Montesoldi Riserva Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2007
Impenetrable pyrope ruby black cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is powerful, with deft cherry fruit supported by equally deft cedar and spice; it's nicely balanced in a very young international key, and with respect to the other Chanti Rufinas (this is also true of the other Frescobaldi wine) is quite distinct. Nice balance, and elegant, in an international key, and has quite a bit to say too. On the palate it's full, with deft cherry plum fruit supported by cedar laced tannins and warm rather brambly cedar acidity that flow into a clean cedar laced finish. Elegant though very young; the oak is more apparent than it will be: it needs another couple of years to come together, and will age well for a decade or more. If you like powerful fruit driven wines in the international style you will enjoy it very much, and those with more traditional tastes will also find things to enjoy. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Castello del Trebbio

Castello del Trebbio Chianti 2008
Black almandine with garnet reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy red berry fruit supported by some spice and slight vegetal accents. Nice balance in a very young key. On the palate it's fairly light, with bright sour berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and moderately intense slightly splintery tannins that flow into a clean splintery sour cherry finish. Pleasant enough in a youthful direct key, and will drink well with simple pasta dishes, quickly grilled meats, or light stews, and also has enough acidity to work well with fried meats and vegetables. It's scrappy, and will work well with foods.
2 stars

Castello del Trebbio Lastricato Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with cherry ruby rim; poured ink. The bouquet is muted -- the wine is very young -- though swishing brings up some berry fruit supported by cedar and some spice. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported more by savory bitterness than by acidity, and it flows into a rather soft bitter finish. It's trying terribly hard, but I found it to be lacking in acidity, and fear that with time it will fade and fall flat. Acidity provides the backbone of the wine, as well as its longevity, and here there isn't as much as I would have liked.
1 star