Vino Nobile di Montepulciano: The 2007 Vintage, and an Opportunity to Eat Crow

Of the three Appellations presenting red wines during Tuscany's Anteprima Week, Nobile di Montepulciano is the most difficult to evaluate. Nobile di Montepulciano is essentially equivalent to a Riserva (they make Rosso di Montepulciano as a Vino d'Annata), and a 2-year-old Riserva is a baby. No getting around it.

To further complicate matters, the 2007 vintage was a nervous and aggressive vintage in Tuscany, with brambly acidities and sharpness that have yet to settle out. Therefore, rather than evaluate babies that have begun to crawl, we were evaluating brash, angry babies that are still trying to figure out how to roll over. They will, with time, but for now many are the sorts of screechy children that we as parents are happy belong to someone else.

Within this context, Nobile di Montepulciano continues to follow two stylistic paths:

• One, which I would call traditional, made from fruit that is carefully grown, and harvested when ripe, but not so ripe that the acidity has dropped, fermented so as to obtain less extraction, and aged in large oak casks that surrender little to the wine; the wines are bright, and acidic, with rich tannins and considerable backbone that provides an effective counterpoint to Tuscan foods.

• The second is much riper and more extracted, with fruit that is jammy tending towards prune, lower acidities (with increasing ripeness acidity drops), that tend to be ample and very smooth, and (often) sweetness. I confess this is a style I don't particularly care for, because though one can drink it by the glass far from the table, I don't see it as being a very good accompaniment to foods -- the combination of low acidity and soft tannins simply won't work with the hearty pasta dishes and soups or stews, roasts, and grilled meats that are the hallmark of Tuscan cooking. It is also a style I had never really understood: In Chianti, which is my frame of reference for Sangiovese-based Tuscan wines, the wines are dry.

However, when I was leaving the Nobile di Montepulciano tasting this year, I was walking along a parapet and realized that I could see Lake Trasimeno in the mid-distance. Lake Trasimeno is in Umbria, and it's not that much further to Montefalco. Montefalco is of course known for Sagrantino, one of the powerhouse Italian red wines that has attracted a huge amount of attention in recent years. Now, the Sagrantino that has attracted all the attention is dry. But it hasn't always been; Richard Baudains says that when he first visited Montefalco years ago the Sagrantino he was offered was rich, and powerful -- and sweet. And when I tasted through Sagrantino di Montefalco last year, after working my way through the dry wines I was offered Sagrantino Passito, the old style made from overripe dried grapes. It is very sweet, and in some ways resembles Recioto.

Now I'm not saying that Montefalco and Nobile di Montepulciano are related, but if you think about it there is a tradition of sweet red Italian wines extending from Piemonte all the way down to Puglia, and the sweeter softer style Vino Nobile di Montepulciano fits quite well in this context.

I have also always wondered about the ageworthiness of the sweeter softer style.

And have had my doubts answered this year by a vertical organized by Niccolò and Luca De Ferrari of Poderi Boscarelli, who put together a comparative vertical of their Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Boscarelli IGT, beginning with the legendary 1985 vintage and jumping forward in 5-year intervals.

Their Vino Nobile is one of the most classic traditional-style wines with firm tannins and bright acidities, but their Boscarelli is made in the other style, from much riper grapes with softer sweeter tannins and considerable residual sugar. A sweet wine, and it had held up beautifully.
Put simply, with regards to the ageworthiness of the softer sweeter style I stand corrected. If it's from a good vintage and well made it will age much, much better than I thought.

Some crow is definitely in order.

Returning to the 2007 vintage presentation, the final complicating factor was the number of tank or barrel samples: 21, which is close to half the wines. It's one thing to present a barrel sample of a wine due to be released and drunk in the near term, for example a 2009 Bardolino. It's quite another to present a barrel sample of a wine that will spend several months in bottle prior to release, and is then expected to age well for many years. The Bardolino is almost ready, but the Nobile di Montepulciano is a partially painted canvas, and while it may be interesting and give a general idea of what the wine will be, the finishing strokes are simply not there yet. I did taste the barrel samples, and took notes, but did not score them because they are not ready.

I tasted the wines blind; the wineries are listed in the order in which I tasted their 2007 Nobile di Montepulciano.

The Wines, Tasted February 18 2010:

Dei
Dei Vino Nobile di Montepluciano DOCG 2007
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is spicy with some acidity and a fair amount of alcohol, some cut tobacco, and underlying berry fruit. Developing, but it's a barrel sample. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by powerful berry fruit acidity and tannins that are splinter and rather angry, but not vanilla laced. Should develop nicely with time, and be rather elegant in a middle of the road key.

Dei Riserva Bossona Vino Nobile di Montepluciano Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a more rustic key, with greenish balsamic accents mingled with wet stable straw and spice, and also some airy alcoholic warmth. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by savory cherry acidity, and by smooth tannins that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish; it's a bit more languid than I might have liked -- the acidity is present but not really marked -- but displays considerably greater definition than many of the riserve, and will drink nicely with grilled meats or light stews. It will also age nicely for at least 5 years.
2 stars

Le Bèrne
Le Bèrne Vino Nobile di Montepluciano DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with delicate berry fruit supported by citric acidity and some greenish accents; it's clearly still developing but promises well. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by dusky tannins that have a slight greenish burr, and flow into a clean fresh cherry fruit finish. Pleasant and will drink nicely with roasts or stews.
2 stars

Le Bèrne Vino Nobile di Montepluciano Riserva DOCG 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and frankly jammy, with prunes and greenish spice mingling with alcohol; it gives an impression of ripe opulence. On the palate it's ample, and rich, with powerful plum prune fruit supported by prune acidity and dusky greenish tannins that flow into a fairly long greenish tannic finish that gradually fades into warmth. It's powerful and overripe, but more successful than many others that follow this path because the acidity has more backbone, and the result brings to mind in some ways a Recioto -- the Recioto is sweeter, but both have this greenish spice cast. It's particular, and a far cry from what I look for in Sangiovese, but will drink well with cheese-based dishes, for example ravioli with a cheese sauce, and because of its sweetness might also work well with spicy stews along the lines of goulash.
2 stars

Avignonesi
Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepluciano Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents mingled with red berry fruit and some spice, with menthol as well; it brings to mind a nicely iced cake somehow. On the palate it's ample and sweet, with rich plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and barely enough acidity to provide steering, while the finish is ample and soft with some brown sugar overtones. If you like the style, it will drink well with drier meats, or perhaps spicier stews that would clash with the tannins of a drier more aggressive red. But you have to like the style
1 star

Nottola
Nottola Vino Nobile di Montepluciano DOCG 2007
Barrel sample
The nose is out in left field, and this can happen in a barrel sample. The palate is more approachable, with dusky berry fruit supported by sweetness, mineral acidity, and tannins that have a splintery cedar-laced burr, and flow into with a warm fruit finish.

Nottola Riserva il Fattore Vino Nobile di Montepluciano Riserva DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly aggressive, with leaf tobacco and savory accents mingled with spice and some berry fruit accents. On the palate it's full, and rich, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly rich sweet plum fruit finish. It's riper than I expected from the nose, and also softer, though there is sufficient acidity for it to work with light stews or simple roasts. I'm not sure how long it will age for however.
1 star

Fattoria del Cerro
Fattoria del Cerro Vino Nobile di Montepluciano DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is vinous, with penetrating greenish accents and cut tobacco supported by some berry fruit and hints of sweetness, also peppery spice. On the palate it's ample and fairly rich, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and fairly sweet tannins that flow into a long plum-laced finish with underlying bitterness. I'd have liked slightly brighter fruit, and brighter acidity, because it's a bit settled.
1 star

Fattoria del Cerro Antica Chiusina Vino Nobile di Montepluciano DOCG 2006
Inky black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is intense, and vegetal, with dusky freshly cut tobacco mingled with bitter accents and spice. Penetrating, too. On the palate it's full, and fairly sweet, with cherry plum fruit that gains roundness from sweetness, and is supported by ample fairly smooth tannins, while the acidity, what that there is, is dusky and rather bitter. It's ample, and though not settled is not on its toes either, and I fear that it won't be too long lived. In other words, if you like the style, which is brooding and dusky, drink it in 3-5 years.
1 star

Gattavecchi
Gattavecchi Vino Nobile di Montepluciano DOCG 2007
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim fading to orange. Looks older than it is. The bouquet is rich for a barrel sample, with cheeky bright cherry fruit supported by greenish jammy accents that bring bell pepper jam to mind, and by alcohol and warmth, with fairly bright acidity as well. Promising. On the palate it's bright and rich, with lively cherry fruit that has some greenish peach overtones (a factor of youth), and is supported by sweet slightly greenish tannins that gain definition from a slight burr. It will be pleasant, in a ripe cheeky fruit driven (but not soft) key, and will also age nicely. Something to seek out.

Triacca
Casa Vinicola Triacca Vino Nobile di Montepluciano DOCG 2007
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit funky, with bitter accents and hints of stable straw, but it's a barrel sample and developing. On the palate it's full, and fairly rich, with lively cherry fruit supported by brisk raspberry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean rather bitter finish. Pleasant, and will be quite approachable in a middle of the road key, a food wine that will work quite well with grilled meats or light stews. Something to think about if you like this style.

Vecchia Cantina
Vecchia Cantina Poggio Stella Vino Nobile di Montepluciano DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, in a distinctly traditional key, with balsamic accents and delicate underlying sour berry fruit. Still developing, but nice depth. On the palate it's ample and rather graceful, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by moderately intense acidity, and by tannins that still have a dusky burr, and flow into a clean fairly bright sour cherry fruit finish. Pleasant, in a graceful traditional key, but it needs time, at least another year and perhaps two to come together. It will drink nicely with grilled meats or light stews, and will also age well for up to a decade, becoming lacy with time.
2 stars

Vecchia Cantina Cantina del Redi Vino Nobile di Montepluciano DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and a bit rustic, with balsamic accents and spice mingled with leaf tobacco and some greenish notes, and also moderate berry fruit. On the palate it's fairly rich, and languid, with ample cherry plum fruit supported by fairly bright acidity, and by tannins that have a splintery burr, and fade suddenly, giving way to lasting acidity. It needs a year to get its bearings, but I found it a little soft, and wonder how long it will age for. If you like this softer smoother style, it is pleasant and not overripe, and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews.
1 star

Salcheto Salcheto Vino Nobile di Montepluciano DOCG 2007
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and bright for a barrel sample, with yellow peach and berry fruit supported by some dusky acidity. On the palate it's full, and fairly rich, with ripe cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have a milky greenish cedar-laced burr, and flow into a warm very tannic finish. It will be rich, in a ripe fruit driven key, but not overripe.

Salcheto Salco Evoluzione 2005 Vino Nobile di Montepluciano DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents that aren't quite cut tobacco, supported by spice and a fair amount of alcohol, while there isn't that much fruit. Pleasant, and it has a fair bit to say. On the palate it's full, with rich slightly sour berry fruit supported by clean mineral acidity and by tannins that have considerable dusky graphite shaving bitterness, and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. It's obviously from a cooler vintage, in which the grapes didn't ripen quite as much, and to be honest this isn't such a bad thing, because the producers made a wine that's less overripe and less fruit forward: it has much more acidity, and while there are vegetal accents, it has a certain zest to it and will drink well with grilled meats or hearty roasts, for example leg of lamb. It will also age well for 5 -10 years, though I wouldn't go beyond that. If you like the style, which is fairly traditional, you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Canneto
Canneto Vino Nobile di Montepluciano DOCG 2007
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is smoky with bitter accents and sour berry fruit; it's going in several different directions at once. On the palate it's bright, with lively bitter cherry fruit supported by some brambly acidity and by tannins that display considerable splintery youthful anger. It will come together in a fairly traditional key, but will need another year at least.

Canneto Vino Nobile di Montepluciano Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to cherry. The bouquet is unusual, and fairly sweet, with a sweetness that brings dates dipped in bitter chocolate to mind, supported by spice and some cedar. On the palate it's ample and fairly sweet, with rich plum fruit supported by brown sugar that confers roundness, and by tannins that are ample and smooth, while there isn't much acidity holding it together. I would have liked greater depth and intensity.
1 star

Tenuta Gracciano della Seta
Tenuta Gracciano della Seta Vino Nobile di Montepluciano DOCG 2007
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is greenish, with berry fruit and some cedar mingled with delicate vegetal acidity. It's still coming together, but has a willowy feel to it. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by slight acidity, and by tannins that have a bitter splintery burr and settle quickly into a dry tannic finish. I'd have liked greater richness and roundness to the fruit, and more brightness to the acidity. The overall impression is settled.
1 star

Tenuta Gracciano della Seta Vino Nobile di Montepluciano Riserva DOCG 2006
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish berry fruit supported by vegetal notes and acidity. Nice balance, but very young, and still developing. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly bright berry fruit finish with acidity and tannic underpinning.. It's a touch thin, but is also very young, and the tannins have yet to smooth and fold in. I would give it a year and then drink it with not-too-rich grilled meats or light stews; as it ages it will become lacy, I think.
2 stars

Croce di Febo
Croce di Febo Vino Nobile di Montepluciano DOCG 2007
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with fairly intense fruit, black currants, which I usually don't associate with Nobile, and alcohol, with underlying peppery spice likely from wood. Quite international in style. On the palate it's ample, smooth, and soft, with fairly rich cherry black currant fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by tannins that are very smooth, and as they fade in the finish reveal lasting bitter cocoa and coffee grounds, which derive from wood. It's ample, soft, and fruit driven without being overripe, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. However, I would have liked greater brightness to the fruit, and more backbone to the tannins, which are softer than I expect from Sangiovese.
1 star

Croce di Febo Vino Nobile di Montepluciano Riserva DOCG 2006
Dusky cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with spicy greenish accents and some sandalwood, which is unusual in Sangiovese but works nicely here. Not much fruit, but it's also clearly developing. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderately intense mineral acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long cherry plum finish. Pleasant in a languid key, and though it is ripe it's not overripe, and red berry fruit and acidity do appear. It will drink well with grilled meats or light stews, and because of its sweetness will be a good bet with spicier stews as well, for example goulash.
2 stars

Contucci
Contucci Vino Nobile di Montepluciano DOCG 2007
Barrel sample
Deep black lam with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is jammy, and feels chewy with fairly rich candied cherry fruit. Very much up in the air. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by moderate vegetal acidity and tannins that have a dusky greenish burr. It's in mid stride, but it's also too soon to say where it's going.

Contucci Vino Nobile di Montepluciano Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and pale almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with plum fruit laced with sweetness and some alcohol. Not much acidity and it gives an impression of sweet roundness. On the palate it's ample and fairly sweet, with generic prune fruit supported by mineral acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow, as in flow out, to a mineral tannic finish. It's ample, and I found it to be lacking in definition; the acidity is pleasant enough but it's in a very lesser key and as a result it really doesn't channel the wine. I'm not sure how long it will age for, and in a Riserva that's an important consideration.
1 star

Bindella
Bindella Vino Nobile di Montepluciano DOCG 2007
Barrel sample
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fresh, and bright, with vegetal accents mingled with red berry fruit and bright acidity. Nice balance, and promising. On the palate it's full and spicy, with the tannins overshadowing most everything.

Bindella I Quadri Vino Nobile di Montepluciano DOCG 2007
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich for a barrel sample, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by peach velvet and fairly rich acidity. Pleasant to sniff, in a rather luxurious key. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful very ripe cherry plum fruit supported by clean rather mineral acidity, and by smooth tannins that have a cedar-laced youthful burr, and flow into a clean tannic finish. It will I think be rather luscious, not to say swank, and is the sort of wine I might be tempted to serve by the glass far from the table. At table, because of its sweetness and structure it will work well with drier meats, and also would be something to serve with spicier fare.

Godiolo
Godiolo Vino Nobile di Montepluciano DOCG 2007
Barrel sample
Muted bouquet with some mentholated accents and languid underlying cherry fruit. Developing. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a dusky greenish burr and flow into a peppery tannic finish. It's in mid stride, but will clean up nicely in a fairly middle of the road key, and work well with hearty pasta dishes, grilled meats, and light stews.

Fassati
Fassati Passiteo Vino Nobile di Montepluciano DOCG 2007
Barrel sample
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. Classic Sangiovese color. The bouquet is fairly intense, and up in the air, with aromas that bring cola to mind, and are a result of wood-fruit interaction. On the palate it's ample, sweet, and reflects the nose -- it's almost like flat coke. Odd, and I hope that bottle age will fix things.

Fassati Gersemini Vino Nobile di Montepluciano DOCG 2007
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is chewy, with ripe prune fruit that has peach skin sweetness to it, and some greenish accents as well. On the palate it's ample and fairly sweet, with dusky berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and greenish tannins that have a youthful burr and flow into a fairly sweet finish. It's ample, and soft, and if you like this rather sweet rich style you will enjoy it. I prefer more backbone and acidity.

Icario
Icario Vino Nobile di Montepluciano DOCG 2007
Impenetrable black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, and rather rustic, with warm balsamic accents mingled with some menthol and spice. Nice balance. On the palate it's full and rather languid, with sour cherry plum fruit supported by moderately intense plum acidity, and by tannins that have a youthful splintery burr and flow into a fairly long greenish finish. It's very young, and needs a year at least to get its bearings, at which point it will be fairly direct, in a middle of the road key; I would have liked a bit more brightness to the acidity, which is flatter than I might have liked.
1 star

Icario Riserva Vitaroccia Vino Nobile di Montepluciano Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fialry intense, with prune fruit supported by sweetness and some hardwood ash, with hints of brown sugar as well. On the palate it's rich, and fairly sweet, with plum fruit laced with brown sugar and plum acidity, and supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long finish that has bitter accents at the very end. It's ample and soft, and if you like the style it will drink well with drier meats, but I wonder how it will age over time, because there isn't much acidity to it, and aging is what makes riserve interesting.
1 star

Tenuta Valdipiatta
Tenuta Valdipiatta Vino Nobile di Montepluciano DOCG 2007
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is medicinal, with greenish accents and berry fruit. On the palate it's full, and fairly rich, though the richness is more from minerality than fruit, and it flows into a long rather bitter tannic finish. It's too soon to say much about it.

Tenuta Valdipiatta Vigna d'Alfiero Vino Nobile di Montepluciano DOCG 2007
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The nose is shut tight, like a house with the shutters locked. On the palate it's ample and fairly sweet, with cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and tannins that have dusky overtones and flow into a clean fairly sweet finish. It will be amble, soft, and fairly sweet, I think.

Poderi Boscarelli
Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepluciano DOCG 2007
Barrel sample
Dusky black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is shut tight, with hints of cocoa. Not much else. On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by sweetish lemony acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. It's pleasant in a direct middle of the road key, and if it continues along this path will be nice with hearty pasta dishes or light stews, and also with simple grilled meats.

Boscarelli Nocio dei Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepluciano DOCG 2006
Lively black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with sour cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and slight greenish accents. On the palate it's bright, and quite young, with sour cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are greenish and have a youthful cedary underpinning that flows into a clean fairly sweet cedar laced finish with cherry plum fruit underpinning. It's quite young, in a slightly overripe style, and needs another year to come together and show what it is capable of; now one could drink it with succulent roasts, but it will (richly) reward those blessed with patience.
2 stars

La Braccesca
La Braccesca Vino Nobile di Montepluciano DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is pungent, with wood smoke and bitter accents more than fruit, and also a fair amount of cedar, with some freshly cut tobacco as well that confers greenness. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rather languid sweetish cherry plum fruit supported by deft cherry acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long rich berry fruit finish. Delicate, in a willowy sort of way, and will drink nicely with hearty pasta dishes, including tomatoless meat sauces, lesser grilled meats and light stews. It will also age nicely for a number of years, becoming lacy with time.
2 stars

La Braccesca Riserva Vigneto Santa Pia Vino Nobile di Montepluciano Riserva DOCG 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and black cherry rim. The bouquet is still developing, with spice and some metallic accents, and also a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense berry fruit -- it's red berry more than plum-prune supported by moderate acidity and smooth tannins that flow into a fairly warm savory finish with underlying bitter accents with slight metallic notes. I'd have liked greater depth to the acidity, which is a bit flat and makes me wonder how long it will age.
1 star

Poderi di Poggiagallo
Poderi di Poggialgallo Vino Nobile di Montepluciano DOCG 2007
Barrel sample
Lively black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with quite a bit of cedar and some spice, but mostly cedar, and some cut tobacco greenness. On the palate it's ample and fairly rich, with bright cherry fruit that gains direction from sour berry fruit acidity, and is completely overshadowed by angry tannins with an angry greenish peppery burr. To young to say much about.

Tenuta il Faggeto
Tenuta il Faggeto Pietra del Diavolo Vino Nobile di Montepluciano DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents that aren't quite cut tobacco, and a certain sweetness that suggests ripeness, with underlying red berry fruit and some berry fruit acidity. On the palate it's ample, and direct, with clean sour cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly bright berry fruit finish. Quite direct, and will drink well with simple pasta dishes or lighter grilled meats.
1 star

Tenuta Il Faggeto Pietranera Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Rserva 2004
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cut tobacco supported by spice and a fair amount of alcohol, though there isn't much fruit. It's more mature, and beginning to display tertiary aromas. On the palate it's fairly rich, with clean bright berry fruit supported by lively cherry acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright sour cherry finish. Pleasant in a fairly traditional key; it's bright but not really aggressive, and will drink nicely with grilled meats or light stews, and also will age nicely for another 10 years at least.
2 stars

La Ciarliana
La Ciarliana Vino Nobile di Montepluciano DOCG 2007
Barrel sample
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit and greenish accents mingled with some sandalwood. On the palate it's ample and fairly sweet, with plum fruit supported by slight mineral acidity and clean bitterness.

La Ciarliana Vigna Scianello Vino Nobile di Montepluciano DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up wood smoke and spice mingled with some jammy accents and hints of plums; it gives an impression of sweetness. On the palate it's ample and soft, with full sweet plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have an angry cedary burr and flow into a tongue curlingly tannic finish with some sweetish brown sugar overtones. It's ample, and soft, and the wood it sat in is angry and needs time, at least a year if not two, to settle. Since the fruit is already soft, and there isn't too much acidity, I'm not sure what will happen by that time.
1 star

La Lodola Nuova
Lodola Nuova Vino Nobile di Montepluciano DOCG 2007
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with balsamic accents and some red berry fruit supported by savory sea salt and some vegetal accents. Developing, and promising. On the palate it's ample, rich, and riper than I had expected, with fairly powerful plum fruit supported by slight plum acidity and a fair amount of sweetness that confers roundness, and by ample sweet tannins that flow into a fairly sweet finish. It's quite ripe, and will be luscious in a fruit driven key; if you like the style, which will work better by the glass than with foods, you will enjoy it. If you prefer tighter more aggressive wines it won't work for you.

Lodola Nuovoa Vino Nobile di Montepluciano Riserva DOCG 2006
Barrel sample
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is up in the air, with greenish accents and some prunes mingled with spice. Developing, but it is a barrel sample. On the palate it's fairly rich, with clean bright berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and smooth tannins that have a youthful burr. It's pleasant in a middle of the road key, and ripe but not overripe; it will drink nicely with grilled meats, including fare such as a porterhouse steak, and will also work well with roasts or stews.

Poliziano
Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepluciano DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with balck reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is shut tight, with a sign outside saying nobody's home. Some savory accents emerge with determined swishing, but little lese. On the palate it's fairly rich, and fairly sweet, with cherry plum fruit supported by sweetness that confers roundness, and by moderate acidity. The nose needs time, at least a year. This said, I'd have liked greater acidity, because I fear it will flag with time.
1 star

Tenimenti Angelini
Tenimenti Angelini Tre Rose Vino Nobile di Montepluciano DOCG 2007
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with balsamic accents and some balsamic acidity laced with spice and some sweetness. Not much fruit, but developing.. Young. On the palate it's ample, with moderate cherry fruit and moderate acidity, supported by tannins that are delicate and need to smooth some. It is bottled, but quite recently, and needs more time than some to recover from the shock. When it's ready, in a year, it will drink well with grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

Tenimenti Angelini Simposio Vino Nobile di Montepluciano DOCG 2006
Deep almandine with black reflections and dusky almandine rim. The bouquet is rustic, with balsamic accents mingled with stable straw and spice; the impression is somehow sunny and not unpleasant. But it is old style. On the palate it's languid, with fairly rich leathery cherry plum fruit supported by bitter accents and warm balsamic acidity, and also by tannins that have a warm spicy burr and flow into a clean warm savory finish. It's frankly old style, and if you like the style it will work well with grilled meats or hearty roasts, including leg of lamb, and will also age nicely for 8-10 years. But if you prefer richer, riper more fruit driven wines it will work less well for you.
2 stars

Terra Antica
Terra Antica Vino Nobile di Montepluciano DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, and disjointed, with berry fruit going one way and smoky cocoa and coffee in another. Needs time to come together. On the palate it's ample and fairly sweet, with cherry and forest berry fruit supported by clean berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly rich tannic finish. It's in mid stride, and needs time to get its bearings and decide where it is going. I think it will be middle of the road, and work well with simple grilled meats or light stews, but it's a little soon to say.
2 stars

Terra Antica Vino Nobile di Montepluciano Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish vegetal accents mingled with spicy peppery accents and some floral notes. Unusual and still up in the air. On the palate it's ample and fairly rich, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and tannins that are glancing, and flow into a sour berry fruit finish. It's very young and hasn't settled enough to be really drinkable yet. It will, in a year or two, and I would expect it to be fairly traditional in feel, but it needs the time. At present scoring it is like grading an outline rather than the finished paper.

Villa Sant'Anna
Villa Sant'Anna Poldo Vino Nobile di Montepluciano DOCG 2006
Deep black lam with balck reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with brandied cherries and plums mingled with some greenish accents and sup0ported by fairly intense sweetness that has slight brown sugar overtones. It gives an impression of considerable ripeness. On the palate it's ample, and fairly sweet, with cherry plum fruit that gains additional sweetness from overripe yellow peaches, and is supported by a combination of slight acidity and smooth bitter tannins that flow into a clean finish. It's ample, and sweet, and soft, and rather like an overstuffed cussion, htough the bitterness keeps one's fingers from sinking all the way through. If you like this large and luscious style, you will like it, though I found it to be a bit too soft, and I also wonder about its ability to age through the years. There isn't that much acidity, and I fear it will settle with time.
1 star

Carpineto
Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepluciano Riserva DOCG 2006
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit supported by clean greenish spice and some leaf tobacco. On the palate it's bright, with moderately rich sour cherry fruit supported by mineral acidity and fairly sweet tannins. Promising, but the pieces are still shifting to come together.

Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepluciano Riserva DOCG 2005
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and spicy with quite a bit of cedar as well, and not much in the way of fruit. Leaf tobacco there is, however. On the palate it's fairly rich, with clean bright berry fruit supported fairly bright acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright finish. Pleasant, and will drink nicely with grilled meats or light stews. Will be worth waiting for.

Poderi Boscarelli: An Eye-Opening Vertical

Finishing up, after tasting the new wines I visited Poderi Boscarelli for a paired vertical, featuring the 1985, 1990, 1995 and 2000 vintages of Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Boscarelli, a Vino da Tavola that evolved into an IGT, and finally was diverted into Vigna del Nocio.

The Vino Nobile is an uvaggio, or blend, with Sangiovese, Colorino, Mammolo, Canaiolo, and in the older vintages, white grapes too. It ages primarily in botti, large casks, with a few barriques as well.

Boscarelli is instead a Sangiovese in purezza, and has always aged in tonneaux. Tonnoeaux from various sources, though the first (which Luca says have never been equaled) were from Romanée-Conti.

The wines were all fermented naturally, without selected yeasts. The 1985 and 1990 vintages were fermented in cement, because that's what they had. In 1995 they fermented in steel, while the 2000 Il Nocio was fermented in wood casks.

Boscarelli Boscarelli Vino da Tavola 1985
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. Very much alive. The bouquet is elegant, with cut tobacco and spice mingled with polished saddle leather and elegant prune with hints of brown sugar. Very nice, and has a lot to say, is one of those wines one can converse with at length. On the palate it's full and rich, with elegant red berry fruit supported by leathery leaf tobacco and delicate sweetness -- brown sugar -- that is nicely supported by lasting warmth, flowing into a long tobacco-laced finish with sweet tannic underpinning. Quite pleasant, and a revelation for me, because it answers many questions I have had about how Nobile's relatively sweeter wines will hold: very well. An impressive wine in a richer, sweeter key that will drink very well with succulent red meats, including spicier fare such as goulash, and is also a nice wine to drink with wine-loving friends.
93-4

Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 1985
Elelgant brownish almandine with almandine rim fading to Moroccan leather. It's much browner than the Boscarelli. The bouquet is rich, with savory leathery accents mingled with some sea salt and some wood smoke. Much saltier than the Boscarelli and there is an underlying balsamic sharpness as well. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm fresh berry fruit finish. A great surprise, and extremely pleasant; the wine is muc brasher than the Boscarelli, and considerably less sweet, what I would usually expect from an older Sangiovese based wine. I find it much easier to get a handle upon it, but this is also personal preference and experience. Beautifully alive, and from an extraordinary vintage.
95

Boscarelli Boscarelli Vino Da Tavola 1990
Deep ruby shifting to almandine at the rim, with almandine nail. The bouquet is rich, with leaf tobacco and tar mingled with prune and brown sugar with some greenish accents as well mingled with some savory notes. Beautiful balance. On the palate it's full, but not as rich as the 85, which had greater depth and power; it's sweetish, with clean rich brown sugar laced berry fruit supported by clean slightly greenish brown sugar sweetness, and by smooth sweet tannins that have delicate greenish accents and flow into a clean dusky finish. Great depth, and a wine one can converse with, though it's a touch thinner than the 85, and this may be in part wood - the 85 went into wood from Romanée-Conti - and is in part vintage variation.
92

Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 1990
Elegant browhich almandine with black reflections and almandine nail fading to Moroccan leather. The bouquet is rich, and riper than that of the 85, with dusky leather and brown sugar mingled with prune and spice, as well as some walnut skin bitterness. Quite pleasant and inviting to sniff. On the palate it's full and rich, and sweeter than the 85, with powerful fairly fresh cherry fruit supported by some sweet accents and saddle leather, while the acidity is gracefully mineral and the tannins are smooth and warm, flowing into a long warm berry sour almost brandied cherry and plum finish. Very pleasant, and has a great deal to say; one could drink it during a very special meal, or with friends.
92

Boscarelli Boscarelli IGT 1995
More towards ruby than the earlier wines; it's deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine in the rim that pales at the nail to Moroccan leather. The bouquet is rich, though not as intense as the older vintages, with leathery tobacco laced prune fruit supported by brown sugar sweetness and delicate greenish spice. Quick to write, but extremely harmonious. On the palate it's fairly full, and dusky, with considerable warmth and green leather mingled with tobacco more than fruit, and also a bit drier than I expected, whereas the older vintages, the 85 especially, had rich prune fruit, here we have more leaf tobacco and minerality mingled with bitterness, while the tannins are quite smooth and flow into a long bitter rather smoky finish. It's form a weaker vintage, which saw quite a bit of rain, and the wine reflects this; I found it very nice, but neither as enticing nor as pleasant as the 90 or the 85. Rather, it's a wine for - at present - wine lovers who will greatly enjoy its depth.
90

Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 1995
Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is unusual and clearly the child of a difficult vintage; the first impression is of a hot iron that has just given off a burst of steam. Unusual, and looking for other descriptors a fellow taster suggests a closed old wooden cabinet. With some spice as well. It's decidedly unusual, but has quite a bit to say, and as it opens and oxygenates the sharpness fades, revealing deft dried mushrooms and spice. On the palate it's a different story, with rich berry fruit supported by bright citric acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright sour cherry finish. The palate is superior to the nose, and the overall impression is quite pleasant; it has a deft agility to it that is very, very nice.
92

Boscarelli Vigna del Nocio 2000
August 2000 was torrid, and this was the first vintage with sugar contents such that they had a hard time carrying the fermentation to completion. Deep almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and considerably fresher than the older Boscarelli wines, with savory accents and a fair amount of acidity, and also sweetish accents. Considerable depth and elegance. On the palate it's rich, with powerful red berry fruit supported by deft sour cherry acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright finish with some brown sugar sweetness and slight cedary accents. Very nice, and has a great deal to say; with respect to some of the older vintages it's much less sweet -- though there is some sweetness -- and this is likely vintage variation. It's a little more direct than the older wines, and this is in part youth and in part the wine.
88-90

Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2000
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with an initial rush of dried flowers mingled with berry fruit that becomes more graceful as it opens. On the palate it's rich, with powerful cherry fruit supported by deft acidity and clean brown sugar sweetness, while the tannins are peppery and flow into a fairly long peppery finish. It's a bit sweeter than the 95, and this is likely due to the great blast of heat that came during August 2000, jacking up sugar levels of the grapes. It's very good, and will bring joy to a meal, but is a bit less exciting than I liked.
2 stars

As I said in the introduction, this was, for me, an eye-opening tasting, because it showed how well wines made in the sweeter, riper softer style one also finds at Montepulciano can age. Most impressively.