After visiting I Pastini and tasting Fiano Minutolo, we drove to Candido, one of the historic Apulian estates, founded in 1929. They have recently renovated their main offices, which were palatial and quite impressive. As were the wines; we began with a vertical of Duca D'Aragona, their flagship wine, and followed it with several more of their wines (accompanied by a pleasant lunch), and then tasted through the wines of a number of other producers, each of whom had brought two wines.
This was one of the first times a group of Apulian winemakers had come to another winery with their wines, and from our standpoint it was a wonderful thing, because it allowed us to taste many more wines than we might otherwise have been able to. Rather than drag on, the wines.
Azienda Vitivinicola Francesco Candido
As I said, we began with a vertical of Duca D'Aragona, a Salento IGT Rosso whose composition is 80% Negroamaro and 20% Montepulciano D'Abruzzo:
Candido Duca D'Aragona Salento IGT Rosso 1997
Deep almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is rich, with cherry fruit supported by clean wood smoke and cedar, and some underlying balsamic notes, and hints of jammy sweetness. Quite elegant, and deft in an international key; it shows a great deal of polish and brings to mind a well-muscled athlete. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful red berry fruit supported by balsam-laced tannins that have a warm cedary underpinning, and flow into a fairly long warm cedar-laced tannins with lasting warmth. Quite pleasant, with tremendous finesse, and quite fresh in an international key. If you like this style you will enjoy it greatly, and even if you're more traditionally minded you will find things to ponder, because it does have quite a bit to say. Impressive.
90-92
Candido Duca D'Aragona Salento IGT Rosso 1998
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is very different from the 97; with powerful mentholated spice not present in the 97; there are also hints of cumin seed and coriander seed, and there is underlying red berry fruit. Interesting, in a slightly more mature key than its older relative. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich chewy cherry fruit supported by moderate dusky acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that have a considerable cedar overlay and flow into a warm cedar-laced finish. It's pleasant, with nice chewy tannins and rich fruit, but not quite as rich or as fresh as the 97; it is quite ready to be drunk now, and though it will age nicely for a few more years won't be as long lived as the 97. I found it more settled.
88-90
Candido Duca D'Aragona Salento IGT Rosso 2000
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. There's more orange to it than there was in the older vintages, and this is likely the heat of the 2000 summer. The bouquet is intense, with cedar and candied fruit laced with green leather and hints of leaf tobacco; the aromas are quite pleasant, but in a more mature key than those of the older wines, and this is a characteristic of the vintage. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by smoky bitter accents that are more apparent here than in the other two vintages, and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. By comparison with the other two it is a little thinner, and a bit more aggressive, and I would attribute this to the heat of the summer.
2 stars
Candido Duca D'Aragona Salento IGT Rosso 2003
Deep slightly orange ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy cherry fruit supported by some sweetness and hints of wood smoke and leather, and warm underlying cedar. Nice balance, and though it's not heatstruck it is from a hotter vintage -- not quite as tight, and less acidity. On the palate it's ample, with rich jammy berry fruit supported by tannins that have a dusky smoky burr and flow into a decidedly bitter finish with peppery accents and some berry fruit. The acidity is reduced by comparison with the older vintages, especially the 98 and 97, and the fruit has a much sweeter cast to it. In short, it is a child of the vintage, and is in a way distinct from its siblings. It is also quite young, and will develop positively for at least 5 years, but I don't think it will be as long lived as the 98, and certainly not as long lived as the 97.
2 stars
Candido Pozzelle Salice Salntino Rosé 2008
Pale pomegranate pink with white rim. The bouquet is bright, with lively red berry fruit supported by some sweetness, black currants, and some spice. Nice depth, and quite pleasant. On the palate it's rich, with bright slightly sour berry fruit with some underlying sweetness that flows into a clean bright berry fruit finish. Very pleasant in a seductive, rather voluptuous key, and will drink very well as an aperitif or by the glass. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars
Candido Cappello di Prete Salento IGT Rosso
This is a Negroamaro. It's deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with balsam-laced berry fruit supported by cedar and wood smoke, with the cedar becoming more pronounced as it opens. Pleasant in a rather cheeky international key. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with pleasant plum cherry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that have a slight cedary burr to them and flow into a warm berry fruit finish with dusky bitter tannic underpinning. Pleasant, and will drink quite well with foods, ranging from grilled meats through light stews. Expect the bottle to go quickly.
2 stars
Candido Salice Salentino DOC Riserva 2005
95% Negroamaro, 5% Malvasia Nera. It's black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy berry fruit supported by greenish spice and some wet leather, and also nose tingling wood smoke acidity. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by tannins that are fairly sweet but do have a dusky dry burr in the finish, and flow into a rather bitter berry fruit finish. Pleasant, and will drink better with foods than by the glass; I would be tempted to serve it with simple roasts or light stews.
2 stars
Candido Salice Salantino Aleatico DOC 2002
Pale almandine with orange rim. The bouquet is fairly rich with sweet cherry fruit supported by acidity, sugars, and iodine, and also some hopiness. Very nice, with great depth and elegance. On the palate it's full, and sweet, and a little softer than I expected, with nice berry fruit supported by a mixture of sweetness and some quinine bitterness that flows into a clean sweet finish, again tempered by hints of quinine. A nice wine one can converse with.
90
After these wines, we continued with other wineries who had kindly brought their wines; we then bundled back into our van and drove over to the Azienda Agricola Cantele (see the photo above), where we again tasted the wines form several wineries.
Since I concentrate on the wines in these situations, I didn't take as many notes as I might have liked when the producers introduced themselves, but I did take some, which are spliced in along with the wines.
Cantine PaoloLeo
PaoloLeo Fuxia Rosè Puglia IGT 2008
This is a Negroamaro. Pale pomegranate with a slightly orange cast and onionskin rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit supported by slightly greenish acidity and clean spice. Refreshing. On the palate it's bright, with lively slightly greenish berry fruit supported by deft sour cherry acidity and warmth, and by tannins that have a slight greenish burr and flow into a warm rather zesty finish. Pleasant, and will work very well with foods either out doors, as a cookout or picnic wine, and with simple pasta dishes, white meats, and also ahs the acidity to work well with fried meats or vegetables, including things normally difficult to pair such as artichoke hearts.
2 stars
PaoloLeo Orfeo Negroamaro Puglia IGT 2007
Deep pyrope with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy berry fruit supported by cedar and some hardwood ash, with underlying bitterness as well. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by tannins that have a decidedly intense cedar overlay and flow into a long cedar-laced finish. It is, for me, a bit too heavily oaked, and I would give it a couple of years to let the oak fold in.
1 star
PaoloLeo's representative says that one of Negroamaro's salient characteristics is slightly pungent peppery aromas.
Valle Dell'Asso
Mr. Minoia has conducted Valle dell'Asso since 1994. He farms organically, and also practices aridocultura -- learning to grow the vines with what water they have.
Valle dell'Asso Fiano Salento IGT 2009
A barrel sample. This is yet another Fiano, and distinct from both Fiano and Fiano Minutolo. It's pale brassy green with greenish highlights and white rim. The bouquet is still rather muted. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour lemon fruit supported by bitter lemon acidity and hints of almond that are a bit unusual. It has a slightly tired feel to it, but since it is a tank sample we will have to wait to see what it will do in bottle.
Valle dell'Asso Piromàfo Negroamaro Salento IGT 2005
This wine ages for a time in large wood. It's deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is dusky, with balsamic notes and wood smoke mingled with berry fruit and some hazelnut; there's something smoky to it, and also a distance. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have distinctly chocolaty cold coffee overtones derived from wood, and flow into a fairly warm fruit laced tannic finish with again quite a bit of influence from wood. If you like the style, which is rather oaky, it will work well with grilled meats or light stews.
1 star
Agricola Vallone
This is a large winery, with 670 hectares of land, and 170 hectares of vineyards. The estate is divided into three tenute, which are located around Brindisi.
Agricola Vallone vereto Salice Salentino Rosso DOC 2006
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim tending towards orange. The bouquet is fresh, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and some jammy accents supported by bright acidity and hints of lactic acid (just hints). Quite fresh, and pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by dusky brambly bitterness and smoky acidity, while the tannins are bright and smooth, flowing into a clean bitter finish that continues at length. Pleasant, and will drink quite well with grilled meats or light stews, and also has the acidity necessary to work well with fried meats or vegetables.
2 stars
Agricola Vallone Tenuta Serranova Vigna Castello rosso Salento IGT 2007
This is a cru, and it's the first vintage. 70% Negroamaro, and 30% Susumaniello, a traditional varietal that was present in the vineyards -- planted in rows in the vineyard to be blended into the wine. It's lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy berry fruit supported by warmth and cedar, with a fair amount of nose tingling acidity as well. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by lively plum acidity, and by tannins that are still quite young, and need time to fold their oaky component into the wine. The finish is pleasant, with plum accents and nice smooth tannins; it does need another year or two for the tnnins to completely smooth. It will be worth waiting for, and future vintages should be interesting.
2 stars
On our last night we tasted two vintages of Agricola Vallone's most renowned wine, Graticciaia. This is a Negroamaro in Purezza, and we had the current vintage, the 2004, followed by the 1998 vintage. They are very different; in part due to the arrival of a new winemaker.
Graticciaia 2004
Deep pigeon blood ruby with ruby rim. The bouquet is rich with red berry fruit supported by spice and some cedary duskiness. It's fairly fresh, and quite elegant. On the palate it's ample and rich with clean cherry prune fruit supported by moderate sweetness, deft prune acidity, and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Considerable depth and elegance, and charged, with considerable fruit in a fairly approachable international key, and it is impressive, though it is clearly in mid stride. For where it's going, see the final considerations. .
2 stars
Graticciaia 1998
Deep black almandine with almandine garnet rim that becomes more orange at the nail; with respect to the 2004 the color is deeper and blacker. The bouquet is rich, with lively berry fruit supported by clean leaf tobacco, some underbrush, hints of truffles, and some licorice root greenness as well. Nice depth and acidity, and beautiful maturity; it has many more facets than the 2004. On the palate it's full and rich with beautiful sour cherry fruit supported by deftly measured sweetness, underbrush, deft slightly balsamic acidity, and graceful silky tannins that flow into a clean slightly balsamic finish with deft sour cherry underpinning. A beautiful wine, lithe and very much on its toes, graceful and blessed with extraordinary depth and richness and perfectly balanced.
92-3
By comparison, the 2004 is less interesting -- it's more approachable, and almost beckoning, but is softer and a bit more settled, and I think this is due to wood use -- the wine is slightly more vanilla laced, and this is due to tannins that draw from oak rather than from grape; they do an adequate job of providing support but are not as lithe, nor as graceful as the grape tannins. Nor do I think that the 2004 will evolve as the 1998 has. It is not peaking yet, but is following a different, and (to me) less interesting path.
Santi Dimitri
Santi Dimitri Aruca Negroamaro Rosato Salento IGT 2008
Pale pomegranate pink with onion skin rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish accents and some red berry fruit supported by pleasant greenish acidity and peppery spice. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity -- it's not quite as bright as some, but it is old for a Rosato. It will in any case work well as an aperitif.
1 star
Santi Dimitri Aruca Negroamaro Rosso Salento IGT 2006
Deep almandine with black reflections and orange in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with balsamic accents mingled with prunes and jammy spice with some toasted almonds as well, and hints of vanilla -- 10% ages in barriques for a few months, while the rest ages in steel. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with rich prune cherry fruit supported by moderate bitter acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh plum prune finish with dry tannic underpinning. Quite nice, and will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews. Worth seeking out.
2 stars
Santa Barbara
Santa Barbara Sumanero Salento IGT 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim tending towards orange. This is a blend of Susumaniello, Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera, using the traditional 60-20-20 blend that was produced in the Brindisino, The bouquet is intriguing, with candied prune supported by spice and greenish vegetal notes with sweetish accents; in an odd way it brings an Aleatico to mind. A great deal to say, and invites repeated sniffs. On the palate it's ample, with rich berry fruit supported by sweetness and tannins that have a warm vanilla laced burr and flow into a long warm peppery finish with cedary undertones. It's very young, and needs another couple of years at least to get its bearings; it will drink well with stews or roasts, but do give it time
2 stars
Santa Barbara Ursa Major Salento IGT Rosso 2002
This is 80% Primitivo, 20% Negroamaro. Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and quite fresh, with chalky spice and red berry fruit supported by bitterness and some lactic acid. On the palate it's quite fresh, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright finish with berry fruit and dry tannic underpinning. It's quite deft, and will drink very well with foods, an excellent reminder that just because a vintage has a bad reputation -- and the 2002 does -- the wines from it are not necessarily bad. Quite the contrary, they can be surprisingly good.
2 stars
Toremaresca
This is an Antinori estate.
Toremaresca Primitivo Salento IGT 2007
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by pleasant floral accents. Quite fresh. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with bright berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that do have a dusky burr in the finish, which is bitter and fruit laced. The Italian word that comes to mind is ammiccante; it's a very approachable wine that gives one a come-hither look, and though it doesn't stand out as Pugliese -- it has more of an Antinori imprint to it than a local imprint -- it will drink quite well with foods, and if you like this sort of fairly rich fruit driven wine you will enjoy it.
2 stars
Tormaresca Masseria Maìme Negroamaro Salento IGT
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and some orange in the rim. Quite charged. The bouquet is dusky, with smoky accents a fair amount of graphite bitterness with some leafy underbrush as well. On the palate it's seductive, and ample with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a warm cedary vanilla overlay and flow into a decidedly oaky finish with considerable tongue drying cedar and lasting warmth. It's pleasant in a very international key, but needs another couple of years for all the various pieces to come together.
1 star
Tenute Rubino
Tenute Rubino Torretesta Salento IGT Rosso 2006
This is a Susumaniello in purezza. It's impenetrable pyrope with cherry ruby rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is interesting, with prune cherry fruit that has some greenish accents and an underlying sweetness; with swishing underbrush also emerges and so does some wood smoke. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight vanilla burr to it, and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish with -- again -- some cedar that continues at length. Pleasant, and more of a food wine than a wine to be sipped. Also a wine that will age nicely for 5-8 years or more.
2 stars
Note: Susamaniello was an interesting discovery; it is a varietal that is probably Dalmatian in origin, and owes its name to the fact that in youth the vines produce considerable fruit, loading themselves up like donkeys -- "susumaniello" in Pugliese. The grapes are medium-sized, quite dark, and ripen in September, producing wines that develop interesting flavor and aroma profiles with time. The varietal is being reevaluated, and garnering considerable interest, both for use in purezza and as a blending varietal. Rubino, according to an online source, ahs 20 hectares under vine.
Tenute Rubino Negroamaro Salento IGT 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intriguing, with deft floral accents that bring Aleatico to mind, mingled with cherry fruit and some greenish spice. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's bright, and rich, with lively cherry fruit supported by brisk berry fruit acidity that has a slight greenish cast, and by smooth sweet tannins that are relatively light, and flow into a clean prune plum finish with cherry accents, and some acidity. Pleasant, in a graceful, willowy key, and it's very deft on its toes, a wine that will work well with hearty pasta dishes, thick soups, and quickly grilled meats or light stews. Very bright, and enjoyable; Worth seeking out. If you like this lighter, defter style.
88-90
Apollonio
Apollonio Divoto Copertino Rosso DOC Riserva 2001
This is a blend of Negroamaro and Montepulciano. It's deep brick ruby with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with red berry fruit supported by wood smoke and underbrush, and a fair amount of cedar as well. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with moderately intense plum prune fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by tannins that have a distinctly cedar-laced cast, and vanilla as well, and flow into a clean vanilla laced finish. It's heavily oaked, but has absorbed the oak well, and if you like this style you will enjoy it. A big wine, and one that will work well with foods. There's also some residual jammy sweetness to the fruit, plum jam.
2 stars
Apollonio Terragnolo Primitivo Salento Rosso IGT 2004
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is smoky, with a fair amount of cedar and some sweetish accents, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and fairly sweet, with cherry plum fruit supported by jammy sweetness and moderate acidity, while the tannins are quite smooth, with a vanilla overlay that carries into the finish, which becomes a bit tarter with some smoky accents. Like the Divoto, it has been fed a load of oak, but has digested it better, and if you like well oaked wines you will like it. If you prefer wines that are more fruit driven, it's not going to work as well for you.
2 stars
Cantele
Cantele Alticelli Fiano Salento IGT Bianco 2008
This is a Fiano related to the Cambpanian Fiani. It's brassy golden green with brassy reflections and brilliant greenish highlights. The bouquet is rich, with lemony citric accents mingled with hints of gunflint and deft acidity. Bracing and quite zesty. On the palate it's bright, with rich honeydew melon laced with greenish accents and supported by bright, zesty citric acidity that's more towards lime than lemon, and flows into a long warm citric finish with pleasing greenish peppery accents, and some greenish tannic notes as well. Quite pleasant, and will drink well as an aperitif or with rich fish dishes, including fried fish, and will also work well with fried meats and vegetables. It will age nicely for 3-5 years, and will be perfect in summer months. It spends time on the lees, which add further complexity as well.
88-90
Cantele Alticelli Aglianico Puglia IGT 2007
Deep pyrope with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is rich, with dusky underbrush laced with berry fruit and clean cedar, supported by some bitter graphite shavings and spice. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright acidic finish. Deft, with a nice balance between wood, acidity, and fruit, and will drink quite well with foods, ranging from grilled meats and light stews, and will also age nicely for 3-5 years. Anything but settled, and quite enjoyable; though the small oak is evident, you will enjoy it even if you're more traditionally minded.
2 stars
Cantele Salice Salentino Riserva DOC 2006
The DOC says the wine must be 80% Negroamaro, and now people are shifting to considerably higher percentages if not leaving out the Malvasia Nera that was once added, directly in the vineyard, entirely. The wine is deep pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, with prune cherry fruit supported by greenish accents, some underbrush, and decidedly jammy overtones -- prune jam; with more swishing some dusky graphite shavings also emerge. On the palate it's ample and rich, with jammy plum prune fruit supported by smoky acidity and clean rather bitter tannins that flow into a clean fruit laced finish. Pleasant, and will drink very well with red meats or light stews, and will also age nicely for 3-5 years. Nice fruit, and quite approachable.
88-90
Negroamaro produces large bunches and large grapes within the bunches, which are quite compact. Some Negroamaro vines produce smaller bunches with more loosely packed grapes, but at Cantele they are just beginning to study it.
Cantele Teresa Manara IGT Salento 2006
This is Negroamaro, some from Alberello vineyards and some from vineyards that are not. It's poured pyrope ink with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is muted at first swish, though more swishing brings up prune fruit supported by delicate floral accents and some vegetal notes, with some underlying graphite shavings. Much more concentration. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by clean deft berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are warm and have a deft cedar laced burr with lasting warmth, and flow into a long warm peppery finish. It's quite nice, though very young, and needs another year or two to get its bearings. It will work quite well with grilled meats or stews, including stewed game, and will age well for 8-10 years. It needs time, because the oak is fairly intense.
2 stars
Cantele Amativo Salento IGT 2006
This is a blend of 60% Primitivo and 40% Negroamaro; it's inky pyrope with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with plum cherry fruit supported by some underbrush, and by a fair amount of cedar and savory accents. Quite a bit of oak. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich prune fruit supported by fairly bright acidity and by tannins that have a distinct oaky finish. It's pleasant, but needs time to absorb the oak it has been fed. Nice fruit, but the oak is a bit overpowering right now.
2 stars
Feudi di Guagnano
They have 15 hectares of vineyards, and founded the winery to keep the Alberello vineyards their fathers had tended (sending the grapes to the cooperatives) from being abandoned. Alas, their neighbors want to replace their crops with photovoltaic panels and produce electricity.
Feudi di Guagnano Nero di Velluto Negroamaro IGT Salento 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with prune fruit mingled with green leather and spice, and a fair amount of peppery spice and cedar; the grapes are dried for a month before pressing, and this concentrates and develops the aromas, which bring to mind some wines of the Veneto; as it opens interesting almond accents and jammy sweetness emerge. On the palate it's ample, with sweet prune fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and moderate acidity that flow into a clean velvety finish. It's rich, fruity, and very smooth, and if you like this style you will enjoy it very much. It's not for everyone, but it will find its aficionados. Impressive, if you like the style.
2 stars
Feudi di Guagnano Cupone Salice Salentino DOC Riserva 2003
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and fairly pungent, with smoke and penetrating accents at the outset, and as it opens reveals jammy prune fruit. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's full, with rich prune fruit supported by fairly bright prune acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that that flow into a clean jammy berry fruit finish. It's interesting, and though very extracted and quite ripe, not too overripe, and is pleasant to drink. An interesting expression of the wine, and particular too; it is a wine you will either like or not. But if you do it has quite a bit to say.
2 stars
Leone de Castris
Leone de Castris Eloveni Negroamaro IGT Salento 2008
This is fermented in steel, and sees no wood; it is left with slightly higher residual sugar. Violet with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, with jammy plum cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity. Pleasant, and approachable. On the palate it's rich, with fairly sweet, jammy raspberry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that do have a slight burr, and flow into a fairly sweet jammy finish. There are residual sugars, which make the wine very approachable, and will work for introducing those who prefer sweeter wines. More "sophisticated" wine lovers will likely prefer a drier wine, but if you like the style you will enjoy it very much; it's easy to drink and quite versatile too.
2 stars
Leone de Castris Salice Salentino Riserva 50esima Vendemmia 2005
This is 95% Negroamaro, and some Malvasia Nera, and is aged in tonneaux. Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with smoky underbrush and prune cherry fruit supported by cloves and some balsamic notes, with underlying sweetness and slight prune jam accents. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich prune berry fruit supported by moderate leafy acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly sweet prune finish with spicy overtones, more from grape than wood -- nutmeg and some clove. It's approachable in a rather old style, but has a rather tired feel to it.
1 star
Castello Monaci
Castello Monaci Maru Negroamaro Salento IGT 2008
20% of this wine spends a few months in barriques; the remainder is in steel. Deep pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, and jammy, with prune plum fruit supported by floral accents and some spice, and some cedar. Quite fresh. On the palate it's ample and quite rich, with plum cherry fruit supported by moderate prune acidity that is sufficient to provide direction, and by smooth sweet tannins that do have a slight cedar overlay and flow into a fairly long fairly sweet prune finish. Pleasant in a decidedly fruit driven soft key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. If you prefer tighter, more nervous wines it won't work as well for you, but if you like the style it is pleasant, and will work well with drier meats.
2 stars
Castello Monaci L'Artas Primitivo IGT Salento 2007
This is from grapes raised in Alberello, and spends a year in barriques. It's impenetrable pyrope with barely visible black reflections and brick rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up wood smoke acidity, savory accents, and the inside of a pumpkin (one writes what one smells). Decidedly savory. On the palate it's ample, with rich prune fruit supported by spicy tannins with peppery accents that flow into a clean cedar laced peppery finish with prune underpinning that's fairly dry. The wood has a powerful influence upon the wine, but it is pleasant in a big, opulent fruit driven key, and if you like this large rather soft style you will enjoy it. In a year or two it will work well as a sipping wine if you like the style.
2 stars
Taurino Cosimo
Taurino Cosimo Salice Salentino Riserva DOC 2006
Negroamaro and 15-20% Malvasia Nera; it's deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with prune berry fruit and some nutmeg mingled with prunes and deft acidity that is fairly bright, and some smoky underbrush. On the palate it's bright, with lively red berry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a clean fresh fairly tart finish. It's quite drinkable, and will drink very well with succulent red meats or light stews; with respect to many of the other Salice Salentino wines we have tastes the grapes are not less ripe, but not overripe, and this is a very refreshing change. It's quite pleasant, and well worth seeking out. One of those wines one hates to pour out at a tasting.
90-91
Taurino Cosimo patriglione Salento IGT Rosso 2003
This is a cru that with a delayed harvest from a Negroamaro vineyard with 80 year old vines. It does spend 12-14 months in barriques, and is aged in tanks for a time too. It's inky pyrope with almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with rich prune cherry fruit supported by nutmeg and cloves, and also some cedar. Very complex, and still very young; one wouldn't think that it is from a very hot vintage. On the palate it's full, and rich, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins with lasting warmth that flow into a long warm berry fruit finish. Most impressive, and a wine that's well worth seeking out. Even if you like more traditional wines, you will like this, because it has a great deal to say.
92-4
Sigillo Primo
Sigillo Primo Salento IGT Primitivo 2007
This spends three months on barriques; it's inky pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with prune fruit supported by jammy sweetness and some greenish accents. Supported by a fair amount of alcohol, which imparts further sweetness. On the palate it's ample and quite sweet, with fairly rich prune fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm prune finish with dusky tannic underpinning. It's quite ripe, but pleasant in a big soft fruit driven key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars
Sigillo Primo Hilliryos Salice Salentino DOC 2007
This is a blend of Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera, and is impenetrable pyrope with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of alcohol and some jammy fruit supported by some cedar and hints of leafy underbrush. Quite concentrated. On the palate it's ample and sweet, with full sweet prune fruit supported by moderately intense prune acidity that has some nutmeg overtones, and flows into a fairly rich berry fruit finish. It's very big, very soft, and rather sweet; if you like the style you will enjoy it, but you have to like the style. Because of the softness of the wine, I would drink it with drier meats.
1 star
Emèra
Emèra Anima di Primitivo Salento Rosso Primitivo IGT 2008
Impenetrable pyrope with black cherry reflections and cherry rim. The wine spends a few months in steel, but no wood. The bouquet is fairly intense, with prune fruit supported by some animal notes -- it brings a sweaty blonde to mind -- and there are also mentholated notes as it opens. On the palate it's full and fairly sweet, with prune fruit supported by clean berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. It's pleasant, and will drink well with drier meats; if you like bigger softer fruit driven wines you will enjoy it very much. The lack of wood is quite refreshing.
2 stars
Eméra Salice Salentino DOC 2007
This is the classic 80-20 blend of Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera. It's impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and purple rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with wood smoke and greenish accents mingled with berry fruit and some spice. Nice depth. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with soft berry fruit supported by clean cedar laced tannins that flow into a fairly rich plum finish. It's a bit drier and less interesting than the Anima di Primitivo.
1 star
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