Chianti Colli Fiorentini: The 2010 Vintage Presentation

To Begin, Some Background:

In 1924 the Chianti Classico Appellation came into being, when a group of 33 producers banded together and established the Consorzio del Gallo Nero, whose symbol was a black rooster: Only those whose vineyards fell within the area could join, and only if they met rigorous standards (first of which, the wine had to be red). Members of the Consorzio del Gallo Nero (now Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico) were allowed to call their wines Chianti Classico, while the word Chianti came to mean everything else, and was represented by a Consorzio called Chianti Putto, which was established in 1927.

The Chianti Putto zone was huge, and with time a number of more restricted Appellations were also established: the Chianti Colli Fiorentini Appellation, which dates to 1994 -- as one might expect -- surrounds Florence. It's fairly large, resembling an upside-down horseshoe, and also quite variable, with parts bordering Chianti Classico, and others either extending into the Val D'Arno or up into the mountains behind Fiesole (see the map at http://www.chianti-collifiorentini.it/territorio.php).

In terms of composition and production, the Chianti Colli Fiorentini Disciplinare allows producers considerable latitude: the wine must be at least 75% Sangiovese. They can use more Sangiovese, up to 100% if they want, but can also add autochthonous red varietals such as Colorino or Canaiolo (max 10% of the latter), up to 10% white varietals such as Trebbiano or Malvasia Bianca (this is a break with Chainti Classico, which has banned them), and up to 20% of the international varietals such as Merlot, Cabernet or Syrah (10% of a given varietal). Wood use is also up to the producer and varies considerably; some use small wood, others large, and still others cement vats or steel tanks.

One important difference between Chianti tout court and Chianti Colli Fiorentini is the release date: whereas Chianti can be released on the first day of March, just a few months after the harvest, Chianti Colli Fiorentini must be held until September 1. The additional aging brings considerably greater maturity and complexity to the wines.

Of the 40 wineries belonging to the Consorzio Chianti Colli Fiorentini 28 bottle their wines, and of these 28 13 presented their wines at the vintage presentation held in Palazzo Pitti's Limonaia this fall. The tasting was conducted by Franco Ziliani, who arranged the Vini D'Annata in order from lightest and most suited to quaffing to most substantial, which makes good sense if one thinks about it, and after we finished with the Vini D'Annata I tasted through the Riserve too. It was a pleasant morning, and I found a number of wines I enjoyed.

As I noted last year, Good Chianti Colli Fiorentini (the volume of which increases yearly) is quite nice. It also represents an excellent value for money because, as a general rule, Chianti Colli Fiorentini is less expensive than some of the other better known central Tuscan appellations.

The Wines

Azienda Agricola Lanciola

Azienda Agricola Lanciola Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2008
This has some Cabernet and Merlot added to the Sangiovese, which is 90%; aged in botti and steel. Pale cherry ruby with some orange in it. Quite light. The bouquet is fairly intense, and greenish, with vegetal notes and powerful sour cherry with slight underbrush. Quite clean, and pleasant savory sea salt too; a fellow taster finds iris blossoms. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright slightly greenish cherry fruit supported by clean brambly mineral acidity and by tannins that have a warm greenish burr; it's a little more powerful on the palate than the nose suggested, but nicely balanced, and flow into a clean brambly finish with pleasant mineral undertones. It's a food wine, which will work very well with meat based pasta dishes, grilled meats, and light stews.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Lanciola Chianti Colli Fiorentini Riserva DOCG 2006
Pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit supported by some cedar and deft slightly balsamic acidity, and by some brambly accents. On the palate it's medium bodied, and light on its toes, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by lively acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly tart finish. Pleasant, and quite approachable in a food-driven key -- it will work well with roasts or light stews, though it's less suited to being drunk by the glass, and -- unless you are a great fan of Tuscan wines -- won't work as well for you far from the table.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Lanciola Riccionero Pinot Nero IGT Toscana 2006
Pale almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with hot iron mingled with red berry fruit and some sour vegetal accents. It's rather willowy, and one can almost hear the breezes ruffling the leaves. On the palate it's fairly light, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by brish sour berry fruit acidity that has some brambly accents, and by tannins that are delicate and have a warm burr, and flow into a clean sour cherry finish. It's pleasant, though clearly from a clime that's a little too hot for Pinot, and will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Lanciola Antiche Terre dei Ricci Terricci Toscana IGT 2006
This is 80% Sangiovese, with the remainder Cabernet, both Franc and Sauvignon. It's cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with berry fruit laced with green pepper and vegetal accents, including some artichoke stem, and clean spice as well, with hints of cedar. A wine that is more international in style. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly bright sour berry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and fairly intense minerality, while the tannins are distinctly vegetal and clearly owe some of their substance to the cabernet. It's pleasant, and will drink quite well with grilled meats or light roasts.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Le Torri di Campiglioni

Azienda Agricola Le Torri di Campiglioni Chianti Colli Fiorentini Le Torri DOCG 2008
This is 85% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the remainder Colorino, Merlot and Canaiolo. Aged in a mixture of tank and barriques. It's dusky cherry ruby with some almandine. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up berry fruit and some bell peppers, with underlying spice and hints of cedar. The Cabernet does make its influence felt. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with cherry fruit supported by haunting greenish accents and deft greenish acidity supported by tannins that have slight greenish accents and flow into a clean slightly green fruit laced finish. It's pleasant and nicely balanced, with an element of Cabernet that does distinguish it from the other wines; it is a bit of a step back into the past when Cabernet was more popular in Tuscany (people now add less than they used to) and as such brings back memories. Pleasant memories (of when I was younger!), and it will drink well with grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

Castello di Poppiano - Guicciardini

Castello di Poppiano Il Cortile Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2008
This has all the permissible Cabernet and Merlot -- 15% with Cigliegiolo too, and Sangiovese, and is thus the richest wine from an ampelographic standpoint. Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. the bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up berry fruit laced with India ink bitterness and some vegetal accents, almost artichoke stems, and delicate spice. Pleasant enough but needs time because it's still developing. On the palate it's direct, with clean fresh berry fruit supported by savory notes and smooth slightly bitter tannins, while the acidity is sufficient to provide direction, but not too intense, and flows into a clean rather bitter finish. It's a food wine that will work well with simple roasts or grilled meats, and also with meat-based pasta dishes. Very simple, and despite the international varietals classic old style, the sort of wine one sets out on the table and drinks with the foods. It's not a wine to sip by the glass. If you seek depth and complexity this isn't it, but at the table the speed with which people drink it may surprise you.
1 star

Castello di Poppiano - Guicciardini Chianti Colli Fiorentini Riserva DOCG 2007
Deep pigeon blood ruby -- almost poured ink, with cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with brambly vegetal accents supported by berry fruit and graphite shavings, and fairly intense minerality. On the palate it's fresh, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by brambly minerality and deft mineral acidity that flow into a clean fresh rather brambly finish that does have some dusky overtones. Pleasant in a fairly direct key, and though it's not a wine that will stand out at a tasting, if you set it out with friends who have simply come to enjoy a hearty meal, you'll have to replace the bottle more than once. This isn't necessarily what wine lovers look for, but it is what wine is all about.
2 stars

Castello di Poppiano Tricorno IGT Toscana 2007
This is a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet and Merlot, aged in barriques. It's deep pigeon blood ruby, close to poured ink, and honeysuckle a cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with plum cherry fruit supported by stony minerality and spice, and by moderate alcohol; it also gives an impression of youth. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cassis blackberry fruit with an underpinning of cherry, and considerable minerality supported by graphite shaving bitterness and some iodine that flow into a clean fresh mineral finish. It will work nicely with roasts, stews, and other hearty winter dishes.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Castelvecchio

Azienda Agricola Castelvecchio il Castelvecchio Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2008
90% Sangiovese and 10% Merlot, aged in year-old barriques. Pale cherry ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit mingled with slight greenish accents, and hints of acidity that provide direction. On the palate it's fairly full and quite smooth, with fairly rich slightly greenish berry fruit supported by cedar-laced spice that flows into a clean slightly greenish finish; it's slightly lacking in depth and doesn't have as much acidity as I would have liked, but is quite approachable and very easy to drink. If you're traditionally minded like me you may find it less exciting than others, but it is eminently drinkable.
2 stars

Fattoria di Bagnolo - Marchesi Bartolini Baldelli

Fattoria di Bagnolo Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2008
Sangiovese, Colorino and Merlot, which was added to increase smoothness. They only make Chianti Colli Fiorentini -- no Chianti tout court. The wine ages in a mix of year-old barriques and a botte. Deeper cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim tending towards brick. The bouquet is fairly intense, and quite approachable, ruffiano in Italian, with ripe rather sweet cherry fruit supported by India ink bitterness and dusky accents that bring dappled shade to mind. On the palate it's fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by decidedly smooth tannins that have a degree of India ink bitterness to them, and some licorice root, and by moderate acidity -- a little less than I might have liked, though it is quite drinkable, and is a wine that will work well by the glass far from the meal as well as with foods; it will drink well with less fatty meats, for example roast beef, as opposed to grilled ribs.
2 stars

Fattoria di Bagnolo Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2007
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and deep cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with dusky cherry fruit supported by graphite shaving bitterness and brambly notes; it's lively and rather nervous. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite smooth, with rich cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity, a fair amount of graphite shaving bitterness, and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long, fairly rich bitter graphite finish. It's quite approachable, and will drink nicely with grilled meats or roasts, and also has the capacity to age nicely for 5-8 years.
2 stars

Fattoria di Bagnolo Capro Rosso Colli della Toscana Gentrale IGT 2007
This is 80% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged in a mixture of barriques and tonneaux, a significant percentage of which is new. The wine is deep pyrope, close to poured ink, and has a lively cherry rim, while the bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit supported by cedar; it needs another year to come into its own. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with rich cherry fruit supported by dusky bitter accents and moderate brambly acidity that flow into a clean rather dusky finish with underlying graphite shavings that continue at length. It's pleasant, in an approachable, well-polished quite international key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. If you prefer more aggressive, traditional wines, it won't work as well for you. In terms of accompaniments, it will work well with drier roasts, e.g. pork loin or turkey breast, and also will with time be pleasant to drink by the glass.
2 stars

Fattoria di Fiano

Fattoria di Fiano Ugo Bing Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2008
This also has some Merlot. Fermented in a mix of steel and cement. Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, and more animal than some, with berry fruit supported by underbrush and some animal tang, hints of wet stable straw and an abundance of sea salt, and slight cedar as well. It's in mid-stride, but in a rustic key. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by slightly pungent minerality and by considerable India ink bitterness that emerges powerfully in the finish, while the tannins are smooth and savory; it's well polished, with minerality and bitterness carrying more than acidity, and pleasant to drink. If you like the style you will enjoy it, and it will work well with grilled or roasted red meats.
2 stars

Fattoria San Michele a Torri

Fattoria San Michele a Torri San Michele a Torri Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2008
This ages in part in botti, and in part in cement. It's pale ruby with black reflections and rim paling to white. The bouquet is bright, with sour berry fruit supported by some underbrush and savory notes; it's a touch wilder than some, and there are also savory notes. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by brambly berry fruit acidity, and by powerful tannins that have a warm slightly greenish Sangiovese burr and flow into a clean fairly bitter finish. A pleasant food wine that will work quite well with grilled meats, including fattier meats such as sausages, ribs, or chicken with its skin, and also with light stews; it will also work well with rich legume-based dishes such as fagioli all'uccelletto. It will go quickly.
2 stars

Fattoria San Michele a Torri San Giovanni Novantasette Chianti Colli Fiorentini Riserva DOCG 2006
This is Sangiovese, and ages for a time in botte before spending several months in older barriques. It's deep almandine laced ruby with almandine rim, and has a fairly intense bouquet with warm cherry fruit laced with balsamic warmth and spice, with some cedar as well. Quite young and still coming together, though it does bring to mind the countryside on a hot summer day in Central Tuscany. On the palate it's ample and rich, with warm cedar-laced berry fruit supported by sweetness that is likely alcohol related, and by clean bitterness; there isn't much acidity, and this is the vintage, which was quite warm, while the tannins are slightly vegetal and almost brambly. It's quite alcoholic, and you have to like that; if you don't you will find it too strong for you. If you do, it will work well with roasts or stews. But it is a fairly particular wine.
1 star

Fattoria Torre a Cona

Fattoria Torre a Cona Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2008
Ages in part in steel, and in part in large oak. The vineyards are new, planted in 2002-2004. Pale slightly orange cherry ruby with almandine in the rim. The bouquet is bright and brambly, with sour cherry fruit supported by greenish spice and deft greenish acidity. Young vines, but they display pleasing life. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by lively brambly acidity with some greenish mineral accents, and by light tannins that have a fresh burr, and flow into a clean slightly greenish finish. Light, fresh, and zesty; it will drink quite well with simple grilled meats or meat-based pasta dishes, and also has sufficient acidity to work well with fried meats -- including lamb chops -- and vegetables. Expect the bottle to go quickly, and it will be perfect in the proper setting.
2 stars


Fattorie Giannozzi

Fattorie Giannozzi Villa Marcialla Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2008
This is a tank sample, 90% Sangiovese and 10% Merlot, aged in steel with slight microoxygenation. Steel because they decided to work with steel when they set up the cellars, and are happy with the result. The wine is pale lively ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents mingled with berry fruit and some bramble, and underlying black berry and currants. It's still developing, but promises well. On the palate it's fresh, with lively slightly sour cherry fruit supported by clean brambly acidity, and by tannins that are a bit more aggressive than I would have expected from a wine with Merlot; they have a warm brambly burr, and flow into a clean sour finish. I had expected greater depth and richness; it's light and agile, and very much a food wine with quite a bit of acidity that will work well with grilled meats -- sausages, ribs and chicken with the skin, or with fried meats and vegetables. In short, a fresh zesty summer wine that will also be a good bet at a cookout. Particular and if you like the style, which is traditional you will like it.
1 star

La Colombaia Ville di Bagnolo

La Colombaia Ville di Bagnolo Terre delle Fornaci Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2008
Large wood; this is a cask sample bottled for the presentation -- they generally bottle late, and decided to give the 2008 even more time than usual. Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and some garnet in the rim. The bouquet is muted, and a bit unsettled,; the first aroma is bouillon supported by savory spice and berry fruit. Still up in the air. The palate is also odd, with berry fruit laced with cola on first sip, and spice, and supported by smoother sweeter tannins that have sweetish cocoa notes, and -- says a fellow taster -- licorice. It's a wine that tries very hard, and comes across as having been forced into being more than it might have wanted to be. A fellow taster says it's pushed, and more cellar than vineyard.
1 star

Azienda Agricola La Querce

Azienda Agricola La Querce La Torretta Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2008
This ages in 2 and 3-year old barriques; is primarily Sangiovese with a little Merlot and Canaiolo. Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and fairly sweet, with cherry fruit supported by cedar, some spice, and aromatic herbs; it's quite young, and displays nice depth in a fairly international key. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite smooth, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by quite a bit of cedar, which flows into a fairly long bitter finish that has smoky cedar underpinning. The oak is fairly apparent, especially in the finish, and it needs another year to come together; it's quite approachable and will drink well with simple meat dishes, while a fellow taster suggests an Antipasto Toscano with prosciutto and salame.
1 star

La Querce IGT Toscana 2007
Sangiovese and 10% Colorino; it's deep cherry ruby with cherry reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar laced with some ripe berry fruit and some hints of balsam that are from oak, also nice spice. Quite approachable though it needs another year to come together, and the oak is apparent and always will be. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich cherry fruit that gains definition from savory herbal --rosemary and sage -- notes and is also supported by tannins that have a warm savory cedar laced burr, and flow into a clean fairly bitter finish. Pleasant in a 70s-80s style, with more oak more evident than seems to be the current fashion; if you like the style it is enjoyable and will work well with grilled red meats.
2 stars

La Querce M IGT Toscana 2007
This is their first vintage of a Merlot in purezza, from a vineyard planted in 2003. It's deep pigeon blood ruby, and has a fairly intense savory bouquet with quite a bit of cedar and some cassis; it's clearly oaky but this is also the wood stepping in for young vines. On the palate it's ample, with rich jammy cassis fruit supported by cedary accents that confer a degree of grace, moderate acidity that's enough to keep the wine in line, and very smooth tannins that flow into a cedar laced finish. It's a nice first vintage, and it will be worth waiting to see what emerges as the vineyard matures.
1 star

Malenchini

Malenchini Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2008
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright slightly brambly sour cherry fruit supported by tart sour cherry acidity, some minerality, also hints of India ink with moderate floral accents too; there are also hints of tree bark. On the palate it's bright, with zesty sour cherry fruit supported by rich brambly acidity and by tannins that have a warm zesty Sangiovese burr, and flow into a clean bright bitter finish. Quite up front, and a classic old style Chianti, a wine that will work very well with foods, in particular grilled meats and light stews, but also ribollita and other hearty Tuscan soups. It's not a wine to drink far form the table, but will bring considerable joy to the table. If you like the style, which is quite traditional, you will enjoy it very much. If you prefer smoother softer wines it won't work as well for you. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Malenchini Chanti DOCG 2009
Pale cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with cherry and raspberry fruit supported by violets and some greenish notes mingled with apricot fuzz and sweetness. Bright, in an appealing fruity key. On the palate it's fresh and light, with rich ripe cherry and forest berry fruit supported by moderate brambly acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a slightly greenish finish. Quite direct and up front, a cookout or picnic wine that will also work well with simple first course dishes and light meats, and go quite quickly. Drink it now to enjoy its freshness, and a second bottle will come in handy.
1 star

Malenchini Bruzzico Toscana IGT 2006
This is a blend of Cabernet and Sangiovese; it's deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by vegetal accents and slight green pepper, Cabernet's contribution, and by some iodine and leaf tobacco mingled with dusky pencil shavings and graphite. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by dusky mineral bitterness and graphite shavings, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh slightly bitter finish. Pleasant, though it's a little more staid than the Chianti Colli Fiorentini; there isn't quite as much acidity and this is in part the vintage, which was hotter and consequently riper and less acidic. It is in any case quite approachable, and will drink well with grilled red meats or hearty stews, including game such as boar or venison.
2 stars

Petreto

Petreto Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2008
This is from a cooler part of the appellation and at 400 MASL, with considerable temperature excursions, and is a tank sample. It's primarily Sangiovese -- 85-90% with Merlot, and ages primarily in steel, with some cement and botti for 30%. It's deep pyrope ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is intense, and bright, with jammy accents and a degree of acidity that brings sunshine to mind at first sniff, supported by cassis, blackberry, and some underlying spice. The overall impression is chewy. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite smooth, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit that has pleasant cassis overtones and is supported by slightly greenish jammy acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight savory underpinning, and flow into a clean fresh slightly greenish finish. It's fresh, fruity, and quite approachable, and will drink nicely with hearty drier roasts -- roast beef cooked rare and sliced thick, or pork loin for example. If you like the style, which is fairly international, you will enjoy it very much.
2 stars

Petreto Podere Sassaie IGT Toscana 2007
The only white of the day, this is 45-45 Semillon and Sauvignon, with the remainder Chardonnay, fermented in steel, and spends 5 months on the lees. It's brassy yellow with greenish reflections and white rim, and has a fairly intense, decidedly mineral bouquet with iodine and brambly greenish notes mingled with alcohol, some vegetal accents at the outset, and gooseberry that gains in intensity with time. Gives an impression of tartness. On the palate it's much more savory than I would have expected from the nose, with warm salty tropical fruit -- gooseberry - pineapple -- supported by greenish accents from grape that bring cedar to mind, and flow into a warm savory finish. Pleasant, and will drink nicely as an aperitif with cheese or fish based antipasti, and also has power enough to drink well with creamy fish or white meats; I might even be tempted to think about Welsh rabbit.
2 stars

Petreto Bicciolé IGT Toscana 2007
This is a Merlot, and is deep cherry ruby with black reflections. the bouquet is fairly intense, with considerable graphite shaving bitterness mingled with iodine and cherry fruit laced with cassis, and some blackberry sweetness. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich cherry currant fruit that gains definition from dusky graphite shaving bitterness, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight youthful burr, and flow into a clean fairly rich berry fruit finish with underlying bitterness. It has a pleasing dusky richness to it, and will drink well with succulent, not to fatty red meats, for example roast beef slicked thick. If you like the style, which is more controlled than one finds in traditional Chianti, you will enjoy it.
2 stars