It was an unusual vintage, with the earliest harvest in 70 years thanks to an unusually mild spring, with temperatures 2-3 C (4-6 F) above normal on average, and a very warm April that caused bud-break to begin two weeks early. The summer was hot and dry, conditions that favored those who still train their vines to the Pergola system, which keeps the fruit much further from the (hot) ground, and also those higher on the hillsides, while drip irrigation proved a godsend for many. A serious hailstorm at the end of August, in the Valpantena and the easternmost part of the Valpolicella Classico zone, wiped out those it hit, while those who emerged unscathed began the harvest on September 7, 2 weeks sooner than usual.Sugar concentrations, as one might expect, were quite high, approaching those of 2003, wile acidities were rather low and PHs high, while the anthocyanin contents of the skins were similar to those of 2006. In terms of quantity, 2007 was less bountiful than 2006 overall, but thanks to the considerable richness and ripeness of the grapes, a greater volume was fit for becoming Amarone and Recioto than was the case in 2006.
The drying during the fall was good -- now that the winemakers have access to dehumidifiers they no longer need to fear heavy fall rains -- with the thickness of the grape skins resulting in little if any botrytis. Pressing began on December 1, with winemakers going to press when they felt best.
Fermentation, as always, was up to the winemaker, as was the kind of wood used for aging; some prefer botti and others barriques, and time in wood is again a matter of winemaker's preference; some of the wines we tasted had already been in bottle for several months, while others were still in cask.
My General impression?
That I was facing a room full of preschoolers: Amarone is a wine that needs time to develop, years if not decades, and though the Consorzio rather hopefully said that the vintage was "already drinkable," I would put much more stock on the second part of the phrase, "but will age well for many years." One could drink a 2007 Amarone now, but to do so would be rather like eating a piece of Parmigiano that's just a few months old: One would be missing out on everything that time will give.
In terms of absolute quality, I do think that the 2007 is inferior to the 2006 -- the grapes had less time to accumulate complexity, and the wines reflect this, and there is in many cases less acidity, which makes the wines a little flatter, while the fruit is often riper -- but, as is always the case, there are some notable exceptions, and individual winemakers smiled upon by Mother Nature did very well.
Having discussed the vintage, a few words about the Appellation.
Amarone production has increased dramatically over the past few years, but last year the winemakers did take stock of the economy and decided to cut back, reducing the volume of grapes laid down to make Amarone, and also establishing a 3-year moratorium on new vineyards. Both of these steps are positive, especially the latter, because people have been planting vineyards in Valpolicella for millennia, and the prime spots are almost all already planted to vine. The Consozio says, in its press release, that the Valpolicella doesn't want to make the mistakes some other renowned Appellations have made -- e.g. planting in inferior areas simply to produce more wine -- and I hope that they mean what they say.
Before we get to the wines, which I tasted on January 29, 2011, a last word: About half were cask samples, which I prefer not to score since they are still developing in many ways, and one cask or a selection of casks may not be fully representative of the final wine. The remainder were almost all quite recently bottled, and in many cases still recovering from their ordeal and out of sorts. Judging children in this state is a risky proposition at best, and I have therefore decided just to give tasting notes, to help direct you to a wine whose style you like, but not scores, which may or may not hold up over time.
The wines are in the order tasted. The tasting was, as always, blind, though I did ask the sommellier to tell me which wines were barrel or cask samples.
Azienda Agricola Speri Viticoltori
Azienda Agricola Speri Viticoltori Monte Sant'Urbano Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Inky ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense and quite young, with quite a bit of alcohol mingled with bramble and wet tree bark, and with some metallic notes and slight spice. It's still very young, and with more minerality and other elements than fruit. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense sour berry and cherry plum fruit and to a greater degree minerality supported by considerable licoricy warmth and tannins that have an angry burr and flow into a warm tannic finish. It's very young and quite aggressive and needs 3-5 years to settle and come together, though it does show promise in a fairly mineral key. If you prefer more fruit, you won't like it as much.
Azienda Agricola F.lli Recchia
Azienda Agricola F.lli Recchia Masua di Jago Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, with some minerality and moderate alcohol, also some wet bark. On the palate it's fairly intense in a warm dusky aggressive key, with decidedly savory red berry fruit that has some balsamic accents supported by acidity and warmth; it's aggressive and at present angrily tannic, and needs time, 3-5 years, to come together and get its bearings. It has potential in a rather austere key.
Azienda Agricola Cavalchina
Azienda Agricola Cavalchina Torre d'Orti Amarone della Valpolicella 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is a bit sweeter than some, with licorice and sandalwood laced cherry plum fruit supported by spice and alcohol. Pleasant, and though young is nice to sniff. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and tannins that start smooth, though they do have a youthful peppery cedar-laced burr, and flow into a clean sandalwood finish with some underlying sweetness and plum-prune accents. Elegant, and though it has a long way to go will go places.
Azienda Agricola Gnirega
Azienda Agricola Gnirega Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though some cherry plum fruit and slight spice emerges. On the palate it's ample and moderately sweet, with fairly rich prune cherry fruit supported by dusky sandalwood and tannins that are fairly smooth, with a slight peppery youthful burr. Promising in a fairly traditional key, with nice fruit.
Azienda Agricola Monte Zovo
Azienda Agricola Monte Zovo Amarone della Valpolicella 2007
Barrel sample
Deep pigeon blood ruby with some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is moderately rich, with sandalwood laced prune cherry fruit supported by some sweetness and hints brown sugar and savory spice as well. On the palate it's smooth, and lighter than I expected from the nose, with only moderate berry fruit supported by tannins that have black coffee accents, and bitterness, and derive from wood. At present they overshadow the fruit, and I hope this clears up with bottling.
Azienda Agricola Valentina Cubi
Azienda Agricola Valentina Cubi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Barrel sample
Deep pigeon blood ruby with some almandine reflections. The bouquet is muted, with little emerging save some sandalwood and slight berry fruit. The palate is brighter though still unsettled, with fairly rich savory minerality and slight berry fruit, and tannins that are rather steely. Not terrific fruit, but it does display a certain grace, and will develop nicely, I think, in a rather austere key.
Cantina di Soave Rocca Sveva
Cantina di Soave Rocca Sveva Amarone della Valpolicella 2007
Barrel sample
Inky pigeon blood ruby with some garnet in the rim. The bouquet is shut tight, though with swishing some graphite and some slightly balsamic cherry plum fruit emerge, supported by brown sugar sweetness and some green pepper vegetal notes, and acidity that tingles the nose. On the palate it's ample, smooth and fairly sweet, with moderately rich plum cherry fruit supported by sandalwood acidity and tannins that are smooth and well polished, and flow into a bitter finish with savory accents more than fruit.
Agricola F.lli Tedeschi
Agricola F.lli Tedeschi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Barrel sample
Deep pigeon blood ruby with garnet rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some, a savory mix of simmering ground beef and leather, and with the second swish graphite shavings. It's very much a small child, and both disjointed and developing. On the palate it's bitter, with ample graphite laced berry fruit supported by alcohol and tannins that have a spicy, peppery burr and flow into a bitter peppery finish. It will be fairly mineral in a rather traditional key, and needs time to absorb the peppery spice.
Casa Vinicola Sartori
Casa Vinicola Sartori Reius Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Barrel sample
Deep pigeon blood ruby with some almandine in the reflection. The bouquet is muted, with some spice and hints of something rather plastic. On the palate it's ample, mineral, and fairly sweet from a wine standpoint -- there are sugars -- though there is also considerable bitterness from tannins, supported by savory slightly balsamic acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, and it flows into a fairly mineral bitter finish with underbrush accents. Pleasant in a rather mineral, bitter key.
Tommasi Viticoltori
Tommasi Viticoltori Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Poured ink pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and garnet rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some sandalwood and toasted hazelnuts supported by a fair amount of alcohol; as it opens sweet prunes also emerge with slight brown sugar. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that are polished to a bright shine, and flow into a smooth prune laced finish. It's very smooth, almost languid in its smoothness, and the sweetness it displays heightens the effect. If you like the effect you will enjoy it, but you have to like smoother softer big wines; I found myself wishing the tannins had a little more bite.
Azienda Agricola Rubinelli Vajol
Azienda Agricola Rubinelli Vajol Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and fairly sweet, with prune fruit supported by sandalwood spice and intriguing floral accents, while there is also a fair amount of sweet menthol. Quite aromatic, and very young. On the palate it's there's not as much fruit as I had expected; it has moderate prune fruit but is mostly fairly dry, with cedary minerality and some bitter notes that fade into dry savory tannins. It's more settled than a young wine should be, and lacks fruit.
Soc. Agricola Venturini Massimino e Figli
Soc. Agricola Venturini Massimino e Figli Campo Masua Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Barrel sample
Inky pigeon blood ruby. The bouquet is shut tight, nobody home. On the palate it's languid, with very smooth prune fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and smooth sweet tannins that do reveal some splinters in the finish. It's like patting a short-haired cat, that smooth, on the attack, and will be interesting to follow in a very smooth softer but fruit driven style.
Azienda Agricola Arduini Luciano
Azienda Agricola Arduini Luciano Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Deep pigeon blood ruby with some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and fairly sweet, with prune plum fruit supported by sandalwood, brown sugar, moderate minerality, and a fair amount of alcohol. Young, but pleasant. On the palate it's fairly powerful, with berry fruit supported by considerable bitterness that has a coffee and cedar component attributable to wood, and by moderate mineral acidity that flows into a dry tobacco leaf finish. It's disjointed, and needs at least a couple of years to get over being bottled: I found the finish to be a bit dry, and wanted more fruit to flesh it out.
Azienda Agricola San Felice
Azienda Agricola San Felice Amarone della Valpolicella 2007
Deep black garnet with cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful and odd, with on the one hand sweetness, and on the other mustiness and must prunes mingled with alcohol, and some fairly powerful underlying spice, sandalwood in particular, and also some band aid. On the palate it's ample, with ample prune fruit that's much more sour than one would have expected from the nose, with balsamic accents as well, and supported by tannins that have a dusky burr, and flow into a finish with tannins and some brown sugar. It doesn't completely convince, and I'm not sure what it will do with time.
Pasqua Vigneti e Cantine
Pasqua Vigneti e Cantine Terre di Cariano - Cecilia Beretta Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Barrel sample
Fairly deep almandine with more orange in the rim. The bouquet is greenish, with berry fruit and spice, in a rather moderate key, and underlying minerality. On the palate it's full and fairly sweet, with brighter than expected cherry raspberry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and sweetness, and by tannins that are rather blocky at this stage, and this is youth, while the finish flows into dusky bitterness. It may turn out rather well.
Azienda Agricola Monte del Frà
Azienda Agricola Monte del Frà Tenuta Luna di Mezzo Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with graphite shavings and a fair amount of cedar, and underlying sandalwood and sweetness. Not much fruit, and it comes across as more mineral. On the palate it's dry and mineral, with graphite shaving bitterness and some savory mineral acidity, but not much fruit; it rather revolves more around underbrush sensations, and I found myself wishing for more fruit.
Azienda Agricola Accordini Stefano
Azienda Agricola Accordini Stefano Acinatico Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Inky pigeon blood ruby. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some sandalwood and spice mingled with greenish vegetal accents and a sweetness that brings spun sugar to mind. On the palate it's ample, and quite mineral, with tannic bitterness combining with brown sugar sweetness, while there isn't much fruit; it mostly revolves around the mineral accents, and brings to mind underbrush. I'd have liked greater depth and fruit.
Casa Vitivinicola Tinazzi
Casa Vitivinicola Tinazzi La Bastia Amarone della Valpolicella 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with deft prune plum fruit supported by sandalwood, a certain languidity, and some brown sugar sweetness. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense prune fruit, supported by minerality and bitter leafy accents on the one hand, and some sweetness on the other, while the tannins are still young and need another year to come together well. It's pleasant in an austere rather dusky key, and if you like the style, which is more mineral than fruit driven, you will like it. But you have to like the style.
Soc. Agricola Monteci
Soc. Agricola Monteci Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Barrel sample
Deep pigeon blood ruby. Bouquet is powerful, with peppery vegetal and animal accents and some nose tingling acidity, also a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's much sweeter than I expected from the nose, with prune plum fruit supported by cane sugar sweetness and by tannins that have a cedary bite to them; it's quite tannic now, with the sweetness balancing and playing off the tannins, and has a rather facile feel to it; it's trying to be a crowd pleaser, and will I think succeed in a rather direct sort of way.
Azienda Agricola Roccolo Grassi
Azienda Agricola Roccolo Grassi Amarone della Valpolicella 2007
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with some red ruby in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense and quite alcoholic, with quite a bit of peppery nose tingling spice as well. Young and squalling. On the palate it's ample, and fairly sweet, with brown sugar sweetness mingled with bitter notes and minerality more than fruit, and all flowing into a bittersweet finish in which minerality and tannins play off brown sugar. I'd have liked more richness and depth to the fruit.
Azienda Agricola F.lli Recchia
Azienda Agricola F.lli Recchia Cà Bertoldi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Barrel sample
Impenetrable pyrope with black cherry rim. The bouquet is intense and spicy, with sandalwood mingled with some cedar and dusky slightly sour prune plum fruit. On the palate it's ample and sweet, with brighter than expected red berry fruit that's more towards sour cherry than prune, supported by balsamic dusky acidity and peppery warmth, while the tannins are fairly smooth and savory, and flow into a long pleasantly savory finish. It's quite disjointed, but promises well, in a fairly mineral key.
Azienda Agricola Musella
Azienda Agricola Musella Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva 2007
Barrel sample
Deep pyrope ink with ruby rim. The bouquet is intense, with powerful greenish cedar motes and some spice. Up in the air. On the palate it's ample and fairly sweet, with considerable tannic underpinning and moderate fruit. The tannins are cedar laced, and will need to reabsorb and smooth for the wine to work.
Cantine Cesari
Cantine Cesari Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is dusky, with considerable cedar supported by brown sugar sweetness and some prune plum fruit, though what comes out most is the oak in this phase. On the palate it's ample, with moderate prune fruit supported by sweetness and minerality, while there also underlying dusky cedar notes from the wood. I'd have liked greater depth and elegance than I found.
Azienda Agricola Villa Monteleone
Azienda Agricola Villa Monteleone Villa Monteleone Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and dark garnet rim. The bouquet is intense, with fairly rich prune fruit supported by brown sugar and some berry fruit jam, and also by mentholated spice. Pleasant, though very, very young, and really not ready yet. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with fairly rich prune fruit supported by sweetness and minerality that becomes mineral warmth as the wine flows into the finish, with is long and warm with a peppery tannic burr. Pleasant in a more mineral than fruit driven key, and rather dusky, revolving around underbrush and minerality, and will I think become fairly austere and ethereal with time. If you like the style you will like it, but you have to like the style.
Azienda Agricola Dal Bosco Giulietta
Azienda Agricola Dal Bosco Giulietta Le Guaite di Giulietta Amarone della Valpolicella 2007
Barrel sample
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with considerable mentholated sandalwood supported by spice and some greenish vegetal accents, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample with moderately intense prune plum fruit supported by sandalwood spice and acidity, and by tannins that are ample and smooth, though they do have a slight youthful peppery burr, and flow into a clean fairly sweet prune finish. It's quite approachable, in a rather direct key, and while not long on complexity does manage a certain grace.
Pasqua Vigneti e Cantine
Pasqua Vigneti e Cantine Villa Borghetti Amarone della Valpolicella 2007
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is pungent, with fairly intense animal tang and some savory balsamic accents as well. On the palate it's dusky, with sandalwood and cedar laced brown sugar supported by minerality more than acidity, and by tannins that have a decidedly peppery burr.
Bixio Poderi
Bixio Poderi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and ruby rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit. On the palate it's ample and sweet, with fairly rich prune fruit supported by considerable sweetness, and by tannins that have a greenish dusky youth to them; the acidity is present but not marked. It will be ample in a sweeter, approachable key, and will work well for you if you like the sweeter side of the Amarone spectrum.
Azienda Agricola Zanoni Pietro
Azienda Agricola Zanoni Pietro Zovo Amarone della Valpolicella 2007
Barrel sample
Deep pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with quite a bit of alcohol and some greenish cedary accents and some underlying bitterness; it's powerful but unformed. On the palate it's ample, with considerable minerality and some bitter accents, but not much in the way of fruit, and it flows into a tannic savory finish. One can't say much, but it does revolve more around minerality and tannic bitterness than fruit, and this will not change.
Cantine Giuseppe Campagnola
Cantine Giuseppe Campagnola Vigneti Vallata di Marano Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Deep pigeon blood ruby with some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and fairly sweet, with cedar-laced mentholated notes mingled with bitter graphite shavings and some vegetal accents, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich prune plum fruit supported by dusky mineral acidity and by tannins that are smooth, and not quite as powerful as I might have liked; they do gain some verve from peppery accents now, but will soften with time, and will, I fear, settle as well; the finish is smoky with savory accents.
Azienda Agricola Monte Faustino
Azienda Agricola Monte Faustino Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections. the bouquet is disjointed, and smoky with a marked bitter underpinning. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich prune fruit supported by moderate brown sugar, and by tannins that have a youthful peppery burr. It promises nicely in a dusky ripe key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. But you have to like wines that display this fruit register,
Azienda Agricola I Scriani
Azienda Agricola I Scriani Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Barrel sample
Deep pigeon blood ruby. Spicy nose with a lot of cedar to it, and some greenish accents as well. On the palate it's ample and languid with powerful prune fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and some prune laced warmth, and it flows into a clean bittersweet finish with some savory accents. It's promising, in a rather smooth, large, ripe key.
Azienda Vitivinicola San Rustico
Azienda Vitivinicola San Rustico Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Barrel sample
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with deep cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, with prune plum fruit supported by penetrating acidity and some greenish accents with quite a bit of alcohol as well. On the palate it's fairly sweet, with ample greenish tannins supporting prune fruit that gives way to spicy greenish tannins in the finish. It's powerful, and if the tannins come into check, will be pleasant in an ample soft very ripe key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.
Zecchini
Zecchini Vigneto La Calandra Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a rather greenish cedary key, with a fair amount of alcohol and some mentholated spicy notes laced with bitterness. On the palate it's ample, with less fruit than I might have hoped; the structure is carried by savory tannins that have some cedary accents, and while they do an adequate job they are performing a task that is more fruit's than theirs. The finish is pleasantly savory with tannic spicy underpinning.
Azienda Agricola Gamba
Azienda Agricola Gamba Campedel Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with black garnet rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and decidedly out of sorts, with cedary accents supported by some greenish notes and a fair amount of alcohol, but not much in the way of fruit. On the palate it's ample and fairly sweet, with brown sugar and minerality more than fruit supported by dusky tannins that have dried leafy bitterness and flow into a decidedly bitter finish. It's an austere wine, which keeps its distance, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. If you prefer more fruit-forward wines you will like it less.
Albino Armani
Albino Armani Cuslanus Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Barrel sample
Deep by with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fresh and elegant, with blossom-laced prune fruit supported by some spice; it's pleasant and promises nicely. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with rich, languid prune plum fruit that brings to mind a 1920s flapper reclining on divan, supported by clean prune acidity and by tannins that are quite smooth, though they do have some steeliness to them, and flow into a clean prune laced finish with lasting warmth. Pleasant in a very ripe, rather opulent key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. Even if you more generally prefer less opulent wines you will find points to ponder.
Cantina Sociale della Valpantena
Cantina Sociale della Valpantena Torre del Falasco Amarone della Valpolicella 2007
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is spicy, with considerable cedar and sandalwood supported by some greenish accents, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and fairly sweet, with brighter than expected prune plum fruit supported by moderate acdity and tannins that have a powerful greenish cedar overlay that flows into sweetness with bitter tannic accents. It will be quite smooth in an opulent rather international key.
Società Agricola Villa Canestrari
Società Agricola Villa Canestrari Penum Amarone della Valpolicella 2007
Barrel sample
Inky pyrope with black reflections and deep garnet rim. The bouquet is powerful, with considerable prune plum fruit supported by quite a bit of alcohol and some cedar. The palate reflects the nose; it is ample and smooth with rich cherry prune fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight burr to it, and flow into a fairly sweet finish in which brown sugar and tannins meld. If will be beig, smooth, and opulent.
Cantina Corte Campagnola
Cantina Corte Campagnola Gli Archi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and dark garnet rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and a bit dusky, with sandalwood, spice, wet leaves, and something that brings bandaids to mind, in addition to some quinine. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich prune plum fruit supported by greenish sandalwood spice and by tannins that have a deft peppery burr, and flow into a clean spicy finish. It's ample and soft and if you like the style, which is rather opulent, you will enjoy it. It's a far cry from being tightly defined, but has a certain charm.
Vigneti VillabellaVigneti Villabella Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, and spicy with some cedar and some iodine, nose tingling too. On the palate it's ample and sweet, with fairly intense prune plum fruit supported by peppery spice and bitter minerality, while the tannins are young and cedar laced.
Cantine Aldegheri
Cantine Aldegheri Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Barrel sample
Impenetrable pyrope. Very intense cedar and balsamic accents on the nose, warmth and savory notes too. Not much obvious sweetness, though it's there, and not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, and fairly aggressive, with considerable balsamic tannins and moderate fruit. Very tannic and squalling, in an overripe (for what fruit there is) key.
Azienda Agricola Le Marognole
Azienda Agricola Le Marognole Campo Rocco Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Barrel sample
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with greenish vegetal accents that bring artichokes or thistles to mind, and fairly intense bitter graphite shavings as well. On the palate it's ample and rather bitter, with less fruit than I might have expected; what there is is prune and plum, with an overlay of tannic warmth and bitterness. It's behind.
Società Agricola Aldrighetti Luigi, Angelo e Nico
Società Agricola Aldrighetti Luigi, Angelo e Nico Le Bignole Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Barrel sample
Impenetrable pyrope with purplish rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with prune plum fruit and some sandalwood spice supported by fairly bright alcohol and mentholated acidity, and, as it opens, graphite bitterness. On the palate it's powerful, with fairly rich prune fruit supported by bright mineral acidity and tannins that have a brashly youthful burr, and flow into a bright prune finish with powerful tannic underpinning. It's pleasant in an ample ripe key though very young, and needs at least a couple of years for the tannins to come into position properly. If you like the style you will like it, but you have to like big ripe -- not overripe -- wines.
Guerrieri Rizzardi
Guerrieri Rizzardi Villa Rizzardi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Barrel sample
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of cedar and powerful spice overshadowing prune plum fruit. On the palate it's bright, with riep prune fruit supported by lively brown sugar sweetness, and by smooth tannins that have a lip-warming peppery burr, and flow into a clean rather bitter tannic finish. It promises nicely in an ample, ripe key.
Cantina Valpolicella Negrar
Cantina Valpolicella Negrar Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and brick garnet rim. The bouquet is penetrating and rather smoky, with some balsamic notes and peppery barnyard tang as it opens; there's something large and wild to it. On the palate it's ample, with prune plum fruit supported by mineral acidity and by tannins that have a peppery burr and flow into a peppery, smoky finish with cherry plum overlay that resolves into youthful peppery tannins. It's ample and smooth and rather soft, and if you like the style you will like the wine. But you have to like the style.
Azienda Agricola Latium
Azienda Agricola Latium Campo Leon Amarone della Valpolicella 2007
Pyrope ink with dark garnet rim. The bouquet is unusual, with floral accents mingled with green pepper jelly and spice, and a fair amount of alcohol as well, with some spun sugar too. Quite sweet, and rather charged in a very young key. On the palate it's ample and quite peppery, with warmth and spice that overshadow plum cherry fruit that is in turn supported by some mineral acidity, as well as by tannins that have greenish peppery spice to them. It's a bit over the top, and I'm not sure what the tannins will do; it brings to mind a person who has tripped while running down a flight of stairs and is now hurtling, all corners and angles.
Cantine Cav. G.B. Bertani Srl
Cantine Cav. G.B. Bertani Srl Villa Arvedi Amarone della Valpolicella Valpantena 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and some orange in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with dusky sandalwood mingled with musty dried orange peel and some spice, with hints of prune fruit as well, but not more than hints. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with fairly rich prune fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and by clean rather mineral tannins that flow into a clean fairly bitter finish. It's pleasant in a rather austere key despite the languidity of the fruit, and will become more austere with the passage of time. A nice expression of the vintage, but it's not a wine anyone will like.
Società Agricola Corte San Benedetto
Società Agricola Corte San Benedetto Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. Powerful nose with a great deal of cedar, whish overshadows all else. On the palate it's ample and soft with plum prune fruit supported by acidity that's a little cheekier than I expected, and by tannins that have a youthful peppery burr.
Azienda Agricola Domenico Fraccaroli
Azienda Agricola Domenico Fraccaroli Grotta del Ninfeo Amarone della Valpolicella 2007
Barrel sample
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim.The bouquet is promising, with rich prune fruit supported by brown sugar and some bright prune acidity, while there is also pelasaing vegetal sandalwood spice. On the palate it's ample and sweet, with peppery prune fruit supported by clean smoky tannins and mineral acidity that flow into a fairly bright tannic finish. Promises nicely in an ample ripe key.
Tenuta Sant'Antonio
Tenuta Sant'Antonio Campo dei Gigli Amarone della Valpolicella 2007
Impenetrable black almandine ink with deep almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense and decidedly green, with vegetal accents and alcohol mingled with some spice and band aids; a fellow taster also found simmering meat sauce and though I don't quite find that it does have some unusual elements; in its defense it's very young and still coming together. On the palate it's full, with bright sour plum fruit supported by mineral acidity and considerable warmth that flow into a dry finish. It's disjointed and going in several directions at once.
Azienda Vitivinicola F.lli Fabiano
Azienda Vitivinicola F.lli Fabiano Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, in a rather dusty key, with menthol and some animal tang mingled with balsamic notes, and as it opens savory accents. Not much sweetness nor fruit.. It brings to mind a room with everything covered by sheets, somehow. On the palate it's ample, and sweet, with fairly rich plum cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity that's a little brighter than I expected, and by tannins that are smooth, and fairly brash. I'd have liked more depth to the fruit.
Cantina F.lli Farina
Cantina F.lli Farina Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Deep pigeon blood ruby. The nose smells like geraniums in a flower pot, mingled with chrysanthemums and some brambly accents, and I found it a but unsettling; On the palate it's ample, with soft smooth prune fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and moderate mineral acidity, which flow into a glancing tannic finish with some underlying graphite bitterness. The nose is a bit atypical, and not as clean as it might have been.
Albino Armani
Albino Armani Albino Armani Amarone della Valpolicella 2007
Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The nose is a bit unusual, with red berry fruit supported by sweetish brambly accents in a way that almost brings bubblegum to mind, and by mentholated spice as well. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit that is supported by moderate -- I'd have liked more -- berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a rather dry finish. The flatness of the acidity hobbles the wine somewhat; though the fruit is a little brighter than many, more acidity would be nicer. We shall see.
Santi
Santi Proemio Amarone della Valpolicella 2007
Barrel sample
Impenetrable pyrope with ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish sandalwood laced berry fruit supported by hints of chalk dust On the palate it's ample and smooth, with bright prune fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly bright finish. Pleasant, in a deft key, and one of the most tomboyish of the Amaroni presented this year; it has a scrappy character to it and is promising.
Antolini Pier Paolo e Stefano
Antolini Pier Paolo e Stefano Cà Conto Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Lively black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish vegetal accents and spice supported by sandalwood and some brown sugar, with quite a bit of alcohol as well, and cherry prune fruit with some graphite shaving bitterness. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright prune plum fruit supported by spicy tannins and fairly bright mineral acidity that flow into a clean savory finish. It's ample and quite ripe but displays a certain agility and deftness that many of the other wines lack.
Benedetti Società Agricola
Benedetti Società Agricola Corte Antica Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Barrel sample
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some plum cherry fruit and slight cedar, though it has a ways to go. On the palate it's ample and fairly rich, with cherry plum fruit supported by spicy minerality and smooth sweet tannins that have a slight bitter underlay, which gains in intensity in the finish. Pleasant in a moderately austere key.
Azienda Agricola Cà Rugate
Azienda Agricola Cà Rugate Amarone della Valpolicella 2007
Impenetrable black almandine with brick almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense and quite bitter, with a rush of graphite shavings and spice with slight flora accents and a little brown sugar sweetness, and also a little prune fruit. On the palate it's ample, bitter, and dusky, with powerful graphite shaving bitterness and minerality supported by bitter tannins, and some savory accents, but not much fruit. It's austere in youth and will become more so as it ages, and if you like the style you will like it, but you have to like the style. If you want more fruit forward wines, this won't work for you.
Tezza
Tezza Corte Majoli Amarone della Valpolicella 2007
Barrel sample
Deep almandine with almandine rim. Dusky nose with a fair amount of warm balsamic cedar. On the palate it's ample, with moderate fruit and fairly intense balsamic warmth, which overshadows the fruit present. We'll see how it comes together, and if the fruit is able to work its way out from under the tannins.
Bolla
Bolla Le Origini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Lively black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish cedar laced spice and some sandalwood that mingle with greenish mentholated accents and some petroleum. On the palate it's ample, smooth, and rather bitter, with minerality more than fruit supported by slight sweetness, and by tannins that are steely and have something of dried elaves to them. It's austere, revolving more around minerality than fruit, and is a demanding wine not all will like. If you like the style it will do interesting things, becoming lacy with time.
Tenute Galatarossa
Tenute Galatarossa Amarone della Valpolicella 2007
Barrel sample
Dee' pigeon blood ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is spicy with considerable cedar and some graphite shavings supported by moderate balsamic acidity; not much fruit. On the palate it's fairly sweet, with plum fruit supported by brown sugar sweetness and fairly bright acidic warmth that flow into a tart greenish finish with considerable tannic warmth. It promises fairly well, but needs time to get together.
Bonazzi e Boscaini
Bonazzi e Boscaini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with black cherry rim. The bouquet is riper than many, with fairly rich dusky prune fruit supported by hints of graphite and bitterness; there's something languid about it, and also massive. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich prune fruit supported by tannic bitterness and some sandalwood accents, while there is also some mineral acidity, though not that muich, and it flows into a rather bitter slightly greenish savory finish with slight balsamic notes. It's pleasant now, in a rather dusky key, and will also age nicely for 3-5 years, though I wouldn't go much longer than that.
Salvaterra Società Agricola
Salvaterra Società Agricola Le Ruine Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright plum prune fruit supported by fairly smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean plum fruit laced finish. Promising.
Azienda Agricola Cà La Bionda
Azienda Agricola Cà La Bionda Vigneti di Ravazzol Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and brick almandine in the rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with dusky prune fruit supported by some graphite shavings and sandalwood with a fair amount of alcohol as well. On the palate it's bright, with fairly scrappy prune cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a splintery burr to them, and by fairly lively acidity that flows into a clean bright sandalwood laced finish. It's very young, and needs another couple of years to figure out what it wants to be, but has a pleasant freshness to it and could clean up nicely.
Azienda Agricola Novaia
Azienda Agricola Novaia Selezione Corte Varona Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Barrel sample
Deep pigeon blood ruby with ruby rim. The bouquet is a bit wilder than some, with balsamic accents and some animal tang, in particular wet stable straw. On the palate it's ample and juicy with fairly rich prune cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and moderate berry fruit acidity, while there are also sandalwood spice notes and some graphite shaving bitterness. Promises to be fairly agile and lighter on its feet than many, though it is a substantial wine.
Casa Vinicola Tinazzi
Casa Vinicola Tinazzi Aurum - Tenuta Valleselle Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is spicy, with sea salt and some berry fruit mingled with sandalwood and minerality; the spice prevails over fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich prune fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have some sandalwood greenness to them, and by bright spicy peppery accents that flow into a clean fairly rich peppery finish. It's ample and quite ripe, and pleasant in a ripe rather dusky key.
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