Friday, May 20, 2011

The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino: Impressions & More


This year, the winemakers of Montalcino presented the 2006 vintage, and while it was a distinct step up from the 2005, it was by no means easy -- as is the case in other parts of Italy, the 2006 vintage of Brunello di Montalcino turns out to be not particularly user friendly, coming across as rather angry, closed on the bouquet and with tannins that have a hardness to them that promises well for the future but make the wines less ready now than those of a more welcoming vintage would be.

Taken as a group I found the wines to be unready, but in many cases showing considerable potential for the future. In other words, they're wines to buy now and set aside for 5-10 (or more) years, and then open at a happy occasion.

I must also say that my evaluation of the vintage is not universal: A fellow taster I talked with gave it three out of five, because of high alcohol in many of the wines, and many wines with dry tannic finishes. She also sees less aging potential than I do.

Having said this, I began started by tasting through the vineyard selections, finding many things worth thinking about and then worked through the Brunello Base from the same estates, and finished by picking wines almost at random -- more than 140 wineries were presenting their Brunello, and the time allotted, two days, made it impossible to taste them all.

Before we get to the wines, a word about the venue: In the past Benveuto Brunello took place in a tent in the Fortezza, which made things difficult if it was either cold or windy, both frequent occurrences in February. This year the Consorzio moved the tasting to a courtyard that was much better lit, and also more comfortable. The only drawback is that it was too small to also host winemaker's stands, which were therefore in another building, making it much more difficult to gofrom winemaker to tasting table and back. I confess I simply The tasted.

The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino presented February 18 and 19 2011

As I said, I began with Selezioni and then worked through the Brunello base from the same wineries, and then tasted at random. The wineries presenting Selezioni are in the order they were listed on the tasting sheet prepared by the Consorzio.



San Filippo
San Filippo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Lively black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with slightly balsamic sour cherry fruit supported by a fair amount of alcohol and some mentholated accents. Quite young, and keeps its distance, but promises nicely. On the palate it's quite pleasant in a traditional key, with warm bright sour cherry fruit supported by acidity that has some vegetal accents, and by tannins that have a warm slightly cedar-laced greenish burr and flow into a long warm peppery finish with some fruit underpinning and sour berry fruit acidity that carries at length. It's very young, and to be frank not really ready to drink yet, though it will be very nice in 3-5 years, and age well for 10-15 years thereafter. If you enjoy the fairly traditional style you will enjoy it very much.
2 stars

San Filippo Le Lucere Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, in a rather austere key, with brambly sour red berry and cherry fruit supported spice, greenish acidity, and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's ample, and warm, with fairly drawn out sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are ample and fairly smooth, and flow into a long tannic finish. It's an austere wine, in a traditional key, and very young; one could drink it with a steak now, but it will begin to give its best in 8-10 years.
2 stars

San Polino
San Polino Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with back reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with mentholated berry fruit supported by greenish spice and a fair amount of warmth, with some brambly wet tree bark as well. On the palate it's bright, in a middle of the road key, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by bright sour cherry acidity and by tannins that are smooth, with slight bitter accents, and flow into a fairly long bitter cherry finish with some tart underlying acidity and a bitter tannic underpinning. It's pleasant, in a middle of the road key, but needs another couple of years to come together and begin to absorb the oak; it will be worth the wait and if you like this style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

San Polino Helichrysum Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit and some acidity; as it opens the fruit increases some and some spicy accents also emerge. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are smooth, though quite young, and flow into a clean sour cherry fruit finish. It's graceful, in a powerful middle of the road key, and also quite approachable; one could drink it now but it will reward those with the patience to give it 3-5 years, and age well for 12 or more.
2 stars

Tassi
Tassi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Almandine with black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with powerful balsamic sour cherry fruit supported by some greenish vegetal accents and by slight jammy sweet notes that are also alcohol. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry plum fruit -- it's a little riper than I expected but displays verve -- supported by bright plum berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are rather green and flow into a greenish tannic finish. It's standoffish, though there is good potential; it needs a year or perhaps two for the tannins to begin to smooth, and it will age well for 10-15 years.
2 stars

Tassi Franci Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Lively black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with ripe cherry fruit supported by some leather and nutmeg spice with underlying alcohol. It's a bit more modern in key. On the palate it's ample and fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a cedar-laced burr, and by moderately bright cherry-mineral acidity that does surrender to bitterness in the finish. It's ample, and will drink well with roasts or stews; by comparison with some it's less aggressive, though there is good fruit, and if you prefer a less aggressive style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Tenute Silvio Nardi
Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with mentholated alcohol supported by balsam-laced red berry fruit and some Moroccan leather with some spice as well. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by mineral acidity and by tannins that are smooth and glancing, and flow into a clean slightly riper cherry plum finish with mineral tannic underpinning. Graceful though it needs time, a couple of years to begin with, and if you have more patience it will wait as long as you are willing to.
2 stars

Tenute Silvio Nardi Vigna Manachiara Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is dusky, with berry fruit supported by bitter cedar and some graphite shavings; there isn't much acidity to it, and it gives an impression of roundness. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry fruit that's sourer than I expected, supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are ample and fairly rich, with a slight peppery burr that flows into a fairly long sour finish with lasting bitterness. It's elegant, in a rather brooding key, and at the start of a long climb; it will age well for many years, and will be worth giving time to.. It grew on me.
2 stars

Tiezzi
Tiezzi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with slightly jammy berry fruit supported by a fair amount of alcohol, slight cedar, and some greenish accents with u dried orange peel. On the palate it's full, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by lively sour cherry acidity and by tannins that are warm and somewhat splintery, and flow into a warm sour cherry finish with fairly bright tannic underpinning. Quite pleasant, but it needs time, and will begin to give its best in 3-5 years, and will age for a decade beyond then.
2 stars

Tiezzi Vigna Soccorso Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is more rustic than some, with balsamic notes and wet horse mingled with fairly sour acidity; it has an old-style feel to it. On the palate it's rich, with powerful sour cherry fruit supported by brisk sour cherry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long sour cherry finish. Graceful in a traditional key, and if you like the style you will like it considerably. It will drink well now with a steak, but will richly reward those who have the patience to give it time, a decade or more.
88-90

Altesino
Altesino Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is surprisingly young, with deft greenish vegetal accents mingled with red berry fruit, some candied -- almost brandied -- fruit, also warm sea salt and spice with slight balsamic accents. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by dusky bitter tomes and moderately intense acidity -- it's not as bright as I had expected -- and by rather languid prune sweetness that has slight graphite shaving undertones, while the tannins are smooth and rather dry. It's in mid stride, and needs at least a year to come together, at which point it will work well with roasts or stews. I found it middle of the road, but a little less bright than I might have liked.
1 star

Altesino Montorsoli Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with almandine reflections and rim. The bouquet is powerful, and frankly old-style, with warm balsamic fruit supported by dried flowers and strawberry acidity, with underlying nutmeg spice and as it opens dried slightly musty orange peel. On the palate it's ample, and rather languid, and quite round, with fairly intense cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are very smooth, and flow into a fairly long sour cherry finish. It's quite old style, and some of the aromas on the nose suggest that the wood is a little older than it should be, but it displays a certain grace, and if you like the style you will enjoy it considerably.
2 stars

Banfi
Banfi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately rich with brambly cherry fruit supported by hints of cedar and some leather. It's still coming together in an understated sort of way. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with moderately intense slightly jammy berry fruit supported by delicate slightly mineral brambly acidity that fades into lasting warmth. It's a delicate wine, and somewhat in mid stride; the tannins don't display the aggressiveness that many 2006 wines do, while the wine does give an impression of being in mid stride on the palate too; it is drinkable but will age nicely becoming rather lacy and ethereal with time. It's a somewhat different interpretation of the vintage, and one that will in the long term pay well I think.
2 stars

Banfi Brunello di Montalcino Poggio alle Mura DOCG 2006
Deep cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is delicate, with moderate berry fruit supported by green leather and some spice with quite a bit of sea salt as well. It's a nice reflection of the vintage, which had a long cool spell in mid-summer that did have an effect on the overall ripening cast. On the palate it's delicate, with fairly full ripe cherry fruit supported by warm sour cherry acidity and smooth sweet tannins that do have a slight burr in the finish, and have some cedar overtones that will fold in over the next few years. It's not an explosive wine, but does show pleasant grace and will age nicely, becoming delicately ethereal with time. I would give it 3-5 years to come into its own and expect it to age well for 10 years further at least.
2 stars

Barbi
Barbi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, with some musty dried orange peel mingled with some greenish accents; there's not much fruit though there is a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's moderately intense, with generic red berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and by tannins that are somewhat splintery, and flow into a fairly mineral finish with tannic underpinning. It's considerably understated with respect to the majority of the 2006 wines.
1 star

Barbi Vigna del Fiore Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some alcohol and chalky berry fruit supported by some minerality and slight underlying spice. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with moderately rich berry fruit supported by some mineral acidity and warmth, and by tannins that are rather blocky and flow into a rather blocky finish. It's a bit awkward, and the tannins are drier and angrier than I might have liked, and overshadow the fruit, which tried to escape but then settles back into the wine.
1 star

Caparzo
Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Lively pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim fading to white. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some alcohol and spice with slight graphite shavings. But not much; the shutters are closed tight. On the palate it's fairly bright, with lively sour cherry fruit that has some bitter overtones and is supported by sour cherry plum acidity with some mineral warmth, and by tannins that are smooth and fairly bitter, flowing into a clean bright slightly greenish tannic finish with a fair amount of berry fruit. It's graceful, or will be when it catches its footing, because at present it's in mid-stride and needs another couple of years at least to figure out what it wants to do when it grows up. Something to think about if you prefer the more traditional style, but give it time.
2 stars

Caparzo La Casa Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up berry fruit laced with dried orange peel and some spice, with deft underlying cedar and some graphite shaving bitterness. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity and by tannins that are smooth and sweet, and flow into a fresh sour cherry finish with lasting spicy warmth. Graceful, though at the outset of a long climb, and still a bit too young; if you had to drink it now rare roast beef or (medium) lamb would be obvious choices, though it will richly reward those with the patience to give it time. Expect it to age well for 10-15 years or more.
88-90

Castello Romitorio
Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and rather balsamic, with some musty dried orange peel and fairly bright spice supported by bitter accents and some green leather and leaf tobacco vegetal accents. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with leathery sour cherry fruit supported by fairly bright mineral citric acidity, and by smooth tannins that have slight cedar-laced underpinning and flow into a rather bitter tannic finish with some mineral accents. The finish draws up a little bit shortly, and this is the youth of the tannins; it needs a year and perhaps two for them to begin to smooth and develop polish. This said, I'd have liked a little more acidity to keep it on its toes, because the work is carried out mostly by the tannins.
1 star

Castello Romitorio XXV Vendemmia Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections; it's darker than many. The bouquet is powerful, with cherry fruit supported by spicy cedar and some brambles, which are mingled with mentholated accents and hints of burlap and leaf tobacco. Quite a bit going on in a powerful key. On the palate it's full, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by dusky sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a dry cedar-laced burr, and flow into a fairly long dry tannic finish. It's quite rich, with fruit that's impressive, but has also absorbed considerable wood and is still working though it; by comparison with some of the others it's further behind and needs more time. I would expect it to begin to be drinkable in 2-3 years, and for it to age well for a 10-15. If you like the more modern style you will enjoy it, but do give it the time it needs.
2 stars

Castiglion del Bosco
Castiglion del Bosco Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, in a greenish vegetal key with sour cherry fruit mingled with spice and a fair amount of alcohol; it's quite young and needs another year at least to develop. On the palate it's full and rather soft, with bright slightly sour cherry plum fruit supported by moderately intense mineral acidity, and by tannins that are very young and still a bit blocky, flowing into a clean bright sour berry fruit finish with bitter tannic underpinning. It's woefully young and really not ready to drink; it needs another couple of years to learn how to stand and then will age well for at least a decade longer. In terms of style it's middle of the road, in a fairly ripe key.
2 stars

Castiglion del Bosco Campo del Drago Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is riper than some, with cherry plum fruit supported by spice and some nutmeg, and by some alcohol as well. Nice balance in a quite ripe softer key. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by mineral acidity and by tannins that are ample and smooth, with some dusky spicy undertones that bring dried orange peel to mind, and flow into a fairly ripe plum laced finish. It's considerably riper and softer than the majority of the wines, but displays pleasing grace in this style, and if you like the style you will enjoy it; given its acidity it does have nice aging potential, though it won't be really long lived. I would drink it with slow cooked red meats, including spicier stews, or roasts that aren't too rare.
2 stars

Ciacci Piccolomini D'Aragona
Ciacci Piccolomini D'Aragona Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry plum fruit supported by bright slightly greenish alcohol and fairly intense bitterness with as it open greenish brambly accents. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright sour cherry and plum fruit supported by fairly brisk berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a fairly long clean fresh berry fruit finish with some plum accents, and a deft tannic underpinning. It's a little riper than some, and shows nice depth though it remains very young, and needs another couple of years to begin to show well; as it stands it's in swaddling clothes. Something to think about if you prefer a richer, riper style, though there's ample muscle behind the riper fruit and not a hint of flab.
2 stars

Ciacci Piccolomini D'Aragona Pianrosso Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is dusky, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by sweetish almost jammy notes and some dried orange peel with slight musty accents; more swishing brings up slight cedar as well. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright sour cherry fruit supported by considerable sea salt and tannins that have a warm soft burr, and flow into a clean slightly bitter sour cherry finish with lasting warmth. It's fairly graceful, in a traditional key, but also displays a certain laxity that is in part youth; the tannins are still a bit splintery, and need more time to smooth, though I think they will always have a dusky character. If you like the style you will like it; if instead you like wines with tighter tannic structures you will like it less.
2 stars

Donatella Cinelli Colombini
Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some brambly greenish fruit; it's very young and clearly still developing. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by acidity that is warm and rather balsamic, and by tannins that are fairly smooth, but do have a slight cedar-laced burr, and flow into a clean rather bitter berry fruit finish. It's pleasant in a fairly traditional key, and will drink well with grilled meats or roasts, though I would give it at least a year and better two to get its bearings about it; expect it to age well for 10-15 years.
2 stars

Donatella Cinelli Colombini Casata Prime Donne Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. It's darker than many. The bouquet is intense, and quite modern, with languid ripe cherry plum fruit supported by fresh floral accents that are a little unusual in a Brunello, and by greenish spice as well; it gives an impression of a flapper reclining on an ottoman. On the palate it's quite ripe, with rich plum fruit supported by mineral acidity and by tannins that are smooth and sweet, and flow into a clean plum laced finish with some sweetness to it, and also a dry tannic underpinning. It's a very ripe wine, and to enjoy it you have to enjoy a flavor cast shifted more towards plum/prune; if you like the style it will work well with rare to medium-roasted or grilled meats, and with flavorful stews, including spicier variations such as goulash. It's not what I look for in a Brunello, but is a nice interpretation in a ripe to overripe key.
2 stars

Il Marroneto
Il Marroneto Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with sour cherry fruit that gains depth from slight smoky accents and pleasing leaf tobacco and spice; it's still very young and has a ways to go yet. On the palate it's ample, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by fairly intense berry fruit acidity and by smooth tannins that have slight greenish accents and flow into a clean fairly rich sour cherry finish. Pleasant, though very young, and it needs time, at least a couple of years, to begin to figure out what it is, and will then age for at least 10 years and more likely 15. Considerable potential for the future.
2 stars

Il Marroneto Madonna delle Grazie Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some spice and alcohol with delicate underlying berry fruit and some leaf tobacco and graphite shavings with slight chalky spice. It's not really happy about being open. On the palate it's considerably brighter than one might have expected from the nose, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a greenish veneer to them, and flow into a rather dry tannic finish. It's behind with respect to many, and needs another couple of years to be presentable; it will then age well for 10 - 15 years, becoming austere with time. If you like richer more fruit driven wines it will perhaps work less well for you.
2 stars

La Lecciaia
La Lecciaia Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with slightly balsamic our cherry fruit supported by some peppery greenish accents and some spice, while there is also nose tingling acidity. On the palate it's full, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by clean sour cherry acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh sour cherry finish with a deft tannic underpinning. It's pleasant but very, very young, and needs at least another couple of years to get its bearings, and will age well for a decade thereafter. In terms of style, it's fairly traditional, revolving around sourness of fruit, and though it's too soon to say, I think it will display pleasant finesse too.
2 stars

La Lecciaia Vigna Manapetra Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit rustic with balsamic warmth and sea salt supporting sour cherry fruit and a fair amount of alcohol. Nice depth and balance in a fairly traditional key. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry fruit supported by bright sour cherry acidity and by tannins are smooth and sweet, and flow into a long warm sour cherry finish that has a touch of sunny day to it. Quite pleasant in a traditional key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it very much; because of its acidity it will also be rather long-lived, and reward those with the patience to give it time.
2 stars

La Mannella
La Mannella Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of spice and some cedar but not much fruit On the palate it's ample, and fairly rich, with ripe plum fruit supported by sour cherry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh prune finish. It's ample, and pleasant in a rich quite ripe key, with ripe fruit that's supported by deft acidity, which keeps it from settling, and if you like the style, which is rather opulent, you will enjoy it, Give it a couple of year, however, because the nose is behind with respect to the palate and needs time to develop. In terms of accompaniments, it will work well with drier meats, or also slowly cooked hearty stews or roasts.
2 stars

La Mannella I Poggiarelli Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, in a more rustic key, with balsamic accents and some leaf tobacco mingled with wet leather, and underlying dried orange peel and mineral acidity. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit that has some dusky balsamic accents, and is supported by zesty sour cherry acidity, and by tannins that are warm and smooth, and display a nice tannic bite that carries into a fairly long slightly brambly tannic finish with bright sour cherry acidity. Very pleasant in a traditional key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it very much.
88-90

La Togata
La Togata Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some dusky graphite shavings and some wet leather, with slight mustiness as well, and greenish hints that bring squash rind to mind. On the palate it's ample and quite ripe, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by mineral more than fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly fresh sour cherry finish with clean tannic underpinning. It's ample, and a bit riper than many, and also further behind than some on the nose. It needs a couple of years, and is a wine to consider if you prefer a slightly riper cast to the fruit, with some plum, though it's by no means overripe, and there's no flab to it. It just needs time.
1 star

La Togata
La Togata dei Togati Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with ripe plum cherry fruit supported by some leathery accents and underlying bitterness and spice, and, as it opens, some slightly musty dried orange peel. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by moderate sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a fairly long warm sour cherry finish. It's a bit up in the air, and the nose is behind with respect to the palate, which is bright in a fairly traditional key, and I found pleasant. It needs another year at least for the nose to come together, and will age very well for a decade at least.
2 stars

Mastrojanni
Mastrojanni Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and quite ripe, with a fair amount of alcohol and some spice mingled with some vegetal notes and cherry prune fruit; it's still coming together but shows considerable promise. On the palate it's fairly rich, with cherry plum fruit supported by bitterness and by tannins that have a warm cedary overlay and flow into a warm tannic finish with sour cherry underpinning. It's very young and rather disjointed, and needs another year at least to get its bearings, and more time to really begin to show well. In short, it's a wine to wait for, because it has considerable potential but is simply too young now. But if you like the fairly traditional style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Mastrojanni Vigna Schiena D'Asino Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Fairly dark almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit rustic, with balsamic notes mingled with some leathery accents and some spice, but not much in the way of fruit. Rather, graphite shavings and hints of burlap. On the palate it's ample and rather bitter, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported more by bitterness than by acidity, and by tannins that are quite smooth and flow into a fairly long rather bitter finish with a dry slightly greenish tannic underpinning. It's more tired than many, and by comparison lacks verve.
1 star

Mocali
Mocali Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with considerable bitterness mingled with graphite shavings and some rather unusual chemical aromas; a fellow taster says mothballs, and he's right. On the palate it's better than I expected, with fairly bright sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity, and by ample smooth tannins that flow into a clean warm tannic finish that is pleasant enough, but could be a little longer. It's very young, and clearly still coming together; I hope that the nose reflects the disjointedness of youth though that only time will tell.
1 star

Mocali Vigna delle Raunate Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine ruby; it's a little lighter than many. The bouquet is a bit more rustic, with balsamic notes mingled with fairly intense bramble and some alcohol mingled with what seemed almost cheesy at first swish, and then resolved into dusky bitterness. It's frankly dirty. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense sour berry fruit supported by dusky sour berry fruit acidity that has slightly off-putting leatheyr accents, and by tannins that are fairly smooth, but have hazelnut shell notes. The palate reflects the nose, and it's not as clean as it might be.
1 star

La Rasina
La Rasina Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with brambly berry fruit supported by a fair amount of cedar and some warmth, perked by spice as well. On the palate it's fairly rich, with slightly riper than expected plum prune fruit that has a slight brandied cast to it, supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that are decidedly greenish and lay a veneer over the tongue. The fruit is a little light for the structure, though this impression is also due to the aggressive youth of the tannins; it needs at least a couple of years to be remotely presentable, and will then age nicely for a decade or more in a slightly riper than middle of the road key.
2 stars

Talenti
Talenti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with leathery cherry fruit supported by some greenish accents and a fair amount of warmth and alcohol. It's fairly austere. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry prune fruit supported by deft slightly mineral leathery acidity and by tannins that are warm and graceful, with slight leathery accents. It's in mid stride but promises to age quite nicely, becoming lacy with time. In terms of style it's more to the traditional end of the spectrum, and if you prefer richer fruit driven wines it won't work as well for you.
2 stars

Gianni Brunelli le Chiuse di Sotto
Gianni Brunelli le Chiuse di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted -- it's still coming together -- with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by greenish accents and some balsam-laced cedar, supported by moderately intense alcohol. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by fairly graceful sour cherry acidity, and by tannins that are warm and have a spicy burr that flows into a fairly long spicy finish. It's not quite as behind on the palate but needs time here too; it's fairly traditional in feel and very, very young, with a lost feel to it that brings to mind a toddler who has lost his parents. I would expect it to begin to work better in 3-5 years, and age well for 15 or more.
2 stars

Il Poggione
Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted at first swish, revealing mentholated accents and some spice with determined swishing, and also some hints of shellac. Not much fruit. fairly rich cherry fruit supported by some acidity. On the palate it's full, with moderately sour cherry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and warmth, and by tannins that are still quite young and have a dry cedary overlay that flows into a decidedly dry finish. It needs a couple of years for the tannins to fold in, and to be frank I found them somewhat excessive because at present they overshadow the fruit, though this is a first impression of a very young wine. This said, it isn't an easy welcoming wine -- rather it demands time, and will reward those blessed with patience.
2 stars

Lambardi
Lambardi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Lively black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with sour cherry fruit supported by some cedar -- from large wood; it lacks the intensity of barrique oak -- and some alcohol; it's still coming together and has a ways to go, but does display pleasing deftness. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by bright sour cherry acidity and by tannins that have a warm greenish burr and flow into a clean rather tannic finish. It shows considerable promise in a fairly traditional key, but needs another year for the tannins to begin to smooth, and will reward those who have more patience.
2 stars

Siro Pacenti
Siro Pacenti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, and still coming together, with intense greenish vegetal intensity and some barnyard tang supported by deft leaf tobacco and some spice; there's not much fruit at present. On the palate it's full, with elegant rich cherry fruit that has hints of strawberry acidity and is supported by bright strawberry berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish with a tannic underpinning that's quite smooth. It's elegant and graceful on the palate, while the nose is a little further behind; assuming the nose catches up it will be quite elegant in a powerful and rather sour fruit driven key. I would give it 3-5 years, and expect it to age well for 15.
2 stars

Castelgiocondo
Castelgiocondo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry fruit supported by greenish acidity, spice, and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by cherry acidity, and by tannins that are ample and fairly blocky, and flow into a fairly quick cherry fruit finish. It's fairly direct, perhaps a little more than I would expect from a Brunello, but pleasant in a middle of the road key; the acidity is nice and helps to provide direction. More complexity would have been nice, but it is pleasant enough.
2 stars

Luce della Vite
Luce Della Vite Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

A note:
This is from Castelgiocondo, and (I think) derives from the Frescobaldi - Mondavi Luce project).

Inky pyrope with black reflections and almandine rim. One of the darkest. The bouquet is powerful, with chalk and graphite shavings mingled with quite a bit of alcohol and some bitter accents, mingled with nose tingling acidity and licorice root. Not much fruit, though some slightly balsamic cedar does emerge. On the palate it's frankly atypical, with rich prune fruit supported by minerality more than acidity, and by blocky tannins that flow into a clean rather dry prune-laced tannic finish. It's distinct with respect to all the other wines tasted so far, both in terms of fruit register, which is much much riper and shifted to prune, and in terms of tannins, which are quite bitter, and graphite laden the way none of the other wines have been. If someone were to hand me a glass where all sorts of wines are being poured and say, "what is it?" I wouldn't know. This said, because of the richness of the fruit and the mineral acidity it will work well with hearty slow cooking meats, including spicier stews such as goulash, and is worth considering if you like the style.
1 star

Pian delle Vigne
Pian delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with a fair amount of alcohol and some cedar, but not much fruit. Some sweet greenish accents, however. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and moderate acidity that flows into a fairly quick finish. It's a bit flat, lacking in richness and verve, and has a settled feel to it.
1 star

Argiano
Argiano Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with sour cherry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and fairly bright acidity, while there is also a certain airy spice to it. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful cherry f that's quite ripe, with sufficient slightly vegetal acidity and some cedar as well, and flows into a fairly bright sour cherry finish. Graceful in a middle of the road key, displaying lively zest but also ripeness of fruit -- not overripeness -- and if it quite pleasant; if you like the style you will enjoy it, and even if you are a stark traditionalist you will find things to think about. Opulent.
2 stars

Col D'Orcia
Col D'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with slightly balsamic accents supporting some alcohol and moderate red berry fruit; it has an ample feel to it and is clearly still quite young. On the palate it's ample and rich, with fairly intense cherry fruit supported by cherry mineral acidity, and by tannins that have a warm rather blocky burr, and flow into a clean rich berry fruit finish. It's pleasant in a middle of the road key, though it needs at least another year and perhaps two to come together and for the nose to think about catching up to the palate.
2 stars

La Fortuna
La Fortuna Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Lively black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and has a slightly candied feel to it, with ripe berry fruit supported by some cedar and greenish accents, while there are also dusky shadowy accents that bring to mind dappled shade. On the palate it's full, with bright sour cherry fruit that gains direction from sour cherry acidity and from fairly rich tannins that flow into a long cherry finish. Powerful in a middle of the road key, with cheeky rich cherry fruit that gains direction and depth from acidity and tannin; it's still young, especially on the nose, but promises nicely, and if you like the style, with is quite approachable but not as polished as the "international" school likes, you will enjoy it; it will contribute mightily to a steak or a hearty roast.
2 stars

Le Chiuse
Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Fairly pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim; it's one of the paler wines. The bouquet is intense, with elegant cherry fruit supported by moderate cedar, some vegetal accents, and a fair amount of alcohol. Rich in a fairly traditional key, and very young. On the palate it's pleasant, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by considerable cherry warmth and sour cherry acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long sour cherry finish. It's graceful in a traditional key, and though very young will already drink with a steak, if you feel you must. Expect it to really come into its own in 3-5 years, however, and age well for 10-15 or more.
2 stars

Lisini
Lisini Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with ripe cherry prune fruit supporte dby some spice and slight greenish vegetal accents that add depth, also hints of berry fruit jam. On the palate it's fairly rich, with lively cherry plum fruit supported by fairly bright sour berry fruit acidity with some vegetal overtones and by tannins that are warm and rather blocky, and flow into a clean rather tannic finish. It's quite young, and needs at least a year and perhaps two to come together and begin to show its best; in terms of fruit cast it is a bit unusual, with a mixture of ripe cherry and some plum -- some overripening, but it's not taken to extremes, while the acidity does provide direction and though not really strong is quite enough to do the job. In short, it's middle of the road and woefully young; it will be pleasant, and may have a certain richness though I wouldn't venture much further than to say that it won't be tremendously modern in style.
2 stars

Pacenti Franco - Canalicchio
Pacenti Franco - Canalicchio Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense and rather languid, with jammy prune fruit laced with black graphite shavings and some cedar, while there is also some not camphor but slight sweet balsamic notes. On the palate it's fairly rich, with warm cherry plum fruit supported by fairly bright sour cherry acidity and by tannins that have a warm cedary burr and flow into a fairly long cedar laced burr with considerable mineral acidity. It's fairly opulent, in a ripe fruit driven key, and will drink well with succulent roasts or grilled meats. But do give it time, because both the nose and the tannins need at least a couple of years to come together and smooth and develop. When it's ready it will be fairly modern in style, I think, though that's for the future.
2 stars

Querce Bettina
Querce Bettina Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful and quote oaky, with considerable cedar and some pungent shellac supported by spice and herbs, a mixture of mint and rosemary, and slight nose tingling acidity, but not much fruit. It stands out with respect to the majority of wines, in part because the oak is more evident, and in part from the herbs. On the palate it's smoother and rounder than I expected, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by warm berry fruit acidity that's almost hesitant, as if it doesn't want to make a stir -- though it does provide direction -- and by smooth sweet tannins that have a delicate vanilla and cedar underlay, and flow into a moderately long warm sour cherry finish. It's a more delicate rendition of Brunello, and if you're looking for power it's not here. Rather, it displays a certain grace in a softer smoother but not at all overripe key.
2 stars

Quercecchio
Quercecchio Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, and rather rustic, with barnyard tang mingled with balsamic accents and a fair amount of alcohol, and also some dusky bitterness and herbs, both sage and rosemary; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and fairly soft, with moderately intense graceful sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity -- some red currants to it -- and by tannins that are ample and quite smooth, and flow into a warm sour cherry finish with lasting warmth. Quite traditional, in a slightly understated key, and if you like the style, which is rather willowy, you will enjoy it, and it will become lacy and ethereal with time. If you prefer more powerful expressions of Brunello or a more modern style you will like it less. But I found myself rather enjoying it.
2 stars

Sassetti Livio - Pertimali
Sassetti Livio - Pertimali Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Fairly deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy cherry fruit supported by some herbal notes, and by a fair amount of alcohol. It's quite young, and still coming together. On the palate it's a bit understated, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity and by tannins that have a warm cedary burr to them and flow into a fairly warm rather tannic finish with underlying cedar. It's behind, and I found it lacking in tightness and brightness; the acidity is there, and lots of alcohol that confers considerable warmth, but the tannins are a bit too blocky with an excess of cedar, at least at present, and I would give it 3 years to come together -- it's in what an Italian might call a fase interlocutoria, in which it is biding its time. It may emerge upstanding, but the tannins gave me pause.
1 star

Il Paradiso di Manfredi
Il Paradiso di Manfredi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to white. The bouquet is moderately intense, with dusky wood smoke and some spice mingled with alcohol and slight jammy accents, but not much clearly defined fruit. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with tart sour cherry fruit supported by cherry acidity and by tannins that are smooth and soft, and flow into a warm sour cherry finish that has slight hints of sour sweetness. It's a bit in the air, with the nose a bit behind the palate. Though I liked the sourness of the fruit I'd have liked a little more forcefulness to it, and to the tannins, which are more understated than I look for in a Brunello. If you want a delicate interpretation in a fairly traditional key you will enjoy it, and it will age gracefully in a rather lacy key.
2 stars

Sancarlo
Sancarlo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a rich ripe fruit driven key with a fair amount of underlying cedar and some herbs, in particular sage, and slight mint as well. Opens nicely too. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a warm cedary burr and flow into a fairly warm tannic finish with sweetish accents that are in part wood fruit interaction. It's fairly heavily oaked and is still working though it; if you like the style, which is middle of the road and quite ripe but not overripe you will enjoy it. If you prefer more acidic, more traditional Brunello it will grab you less. In any case, it needs at least a couple of years to get its bearings and come together.
2 stars

Tenuta Greppone Mazzi
Tenuta Greppone Mazzi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Fairly deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with floral accents mingled with sour cherries and some dusky spice with hints of cedar as well. Pleasant and rather graceful, though it's still coming together. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by moderate warmth, and by tannins that are fairly smooth, though they do display a somewhat blocky cedar-cast in the finish, which is fairly long, with moderate sour cherry acidity. The fruit is pleasantly ripe -- cherry with acidity -- but the tannins are a bit clumpy now, for want of a better descriptor; the wine was subjected to a fair amount of oak, which should provide smoothness and polish in the future, but it hasn't gotten there yet. It's pleasant, in a softer key, and if you like that you will like it. I'd have liked a little more verve, and this is a stylistic quibble.
2 stars

Tenuta Oliveto
Tenuta Oliveto Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with a great rush of chicken broth. Savory canned chicken broth, and a fellow taster was talking about sugo, meat sauce. Unusual at best, and there is also some cedar, while there are also herbs hidden in the broth, and perhaps some fruit, though it's hard to tell. On the palate it's aple, with rich soft cherry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity that has some savory brothy accents, and is supported by ample sweet tannins that are a bit blocky, and flow into a clean rather mineral tannic finish. It's ripe and very soft but not overripe, and both particular and atypical of Brunello. If you like the style -- big soft wines with soft ripe -- not overripe in this case -- fruit supported by ample tannins -- you will enjoy it, but you have to know what you're getting into. It's not what I think of as Brunello.
1 star

Uccelliera
Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and a bit unusual, with wet plaster that blows off to reveal herbal accents and some cherry fruit supported by a fair amount of alcohol and some greenish vegetal notes. On the palate it's fairly rich, with sour cherry fruit supported by fairly bright sour cherry acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, though they do display a warm slightly blocky vegetal burr in the finish, which has lasting warmth. It's ample in a middle of the road key, and needs another couple of years at least for the tannins to smooth and soften, though I suspect they will always have a slight aggressiveness to them from wood. It made me think, and this is usually a good thing; if you like the style, which is middle of the road, you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Campogiovanni
Campogiovanni Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, and quite ripe, with cherry plum fruit supported by cedar-laced spice and some herbal accents, and some jammy notes as well. Powerful, and it's still coming together. On the palate it's brighter than I expected, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by bright sour cherry raspberry acidity and by tannins that are decidedly splintery, and have yet to smooth -- quite a bit of oak here, and it is angry yet and flow into a fairly long warm finish with dry tannic underpinning. It's a child and needs time, at least a couple of years and three would be better, and will age well for 15 at least. It will reward those withg patience, but do give it time.
2 stars

Salvioni Salvioni Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Bright almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with ripe cherry fruit supported by dusky spice and a fair amount of alcohol with some greenish vegetal accents and as it opens some cedar. On the palate it's fairly direct, with sour cherry fruit supported by moderately intense sour cherry fruit that has some dusky accents, and by tannins that have a warm savory burr and flow into a fairly tannic finish with some sour cherry accents as well and hints of cocoa. It's still a couple of years from being ready to drink; the tannins have an angriness to them that will fold in with time, but hasn't yet. I'd have liked a little more force and verve to the fruit, which is pleasant and though not settled and lacks what Italians call slancio, or drive. At present; as the tannins smooth it will likely gain some, and I would give it time.
2 stars

Tenimenti Angelini
Tenimenti Angelini Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Elegant almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and in mid stride, with some herbal accents and some graphite shavings with underlying cherry fruit that's still working on coming out. Not quite a work in progress, but definitely behind. On the palate it's ample and fairly rich, with cherry fruit that's sour but a little riper than some, supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are smooth and a bit understated, and flow into a clean sour cherry finish. It's a bit understated, and I'd have liked more drive than I found, though this is also youth; there's also a fair amount of alcohol, and it has a ways to go.
2 stars

Tenuta Le Potazzine
Tenuta Le Potazzine Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit supported by plums and slight fairly bright greenish accents, with a fair amount of alcohol as well. On the palate it's fairly rich, with sour cherry fruit supported by some greenish berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a warm greenish peppery burr and flow into a fairly tart berry fruit finish. It's very young, and needs at least a couple of years for the tannins to smooth, but is fairy graceful, and will age nicely for a number of years. The fruit cast is fairly traditional, and it will develop nicely, though it needs time. Something to think about if you like the style, and I found it growing on me.
2 stars

Vasco Sassetti
Vasco Sassetti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and rather jammy with cherry fruit and considerable peppery nutmeg spice and some pungent leathery accents. The overall impression is brooding. On the palate it's moderately intense, with rather generic sour cherry fruit supported more by minerality than fruit based acidity, and by tannins that have quite a bit of cedar to them, and flow into a rather dry finish with slight sour cherry brightness. I'd have liked greater richness of fruit and brighter acidity, because it comes across as a bit more settled than I might have liked. In its defense it needs at least a couple of years for the tannins to smooth, and when they will the wine will brighten some, but I must write about what's in the glass now.
1 star

Agostina Pieri
Agostina Pieri Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a rather pungent key, with moderate plum fruit and quite intense cedar that has some redwood accents to it, and some savory notes as well that bring bouillon to mind. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are ample and rather blocky, and flow into a clean dry fairly tannic finish. It's in mid stride, especially on the nose, and needs another couple of years to come together and forge a unified whole; at present the tannins overshadow everything in the finish with considerable splinteriness, and I hope that they will smooth with time. Time will tell, but I think it will always be fairly tannic in a peppery key, and is a wine you should consider only if you like this style.
1 star

Donna Olga
Donna Olga Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with bright jammy cherry fruit that has fairly intense vegetal accents and some peppery spice with some underbrush and wet leaves as well. Fairly rich. On the palate it's bright, with fairly sweet jammy cherry fruit that gains direction from moderate sour cherry acidity and is supported by tannins that are fairly smooth and flow into a clean sour cherry finish with tannic underpinning. It's pleasant in a rather opulent key, and if you like the style, which is bright and sunny, you will enjoy it. It does however need a couple of years to get its bearings and come together, and will subsequently age well for a decade at least.
2 stars

Brunelli
Brunelli Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim; it's paler than many. The bouquet is fairly intense, with pungent green leather and some balsamic accents mingled with some spice and some dried mushrooms, with fairly intense herbal accents as well -- towards artichoke. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by deft sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are warm and smooth, with a slight peppery burr, and flow into a clean bright sour cherry finish. It's fairly traditional in key, and bright, and though it needs another couple of years for the tannins to smooth will already work with a steak (if you must), and will also age very well for a number of years. Worth seeking out. If you like the style.
2 stars

Camigliano Camignliano Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Fairly pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim; it's one of the paler wines poured. The bouquet is fairly rich, with sour cherry fruit supported by greenish accents and some green leather, and as it opens a fair amount of alcohol that confers a certain sweetness, and some hints of underbrush. On the palate it's ample, with fairly soft sour cherry fruit supported by alcohol that confers sweetness, and by tannins that are smooth and fairly sweet, while direction comes from fairly bright sour cherry acidity. It's pleasant in a tart key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. If you prefer richer, rounder fruit it won't work as well for you.
2 stars

Canneta
Canneta Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim; it's fairly pale. The bouquet is fairly intense and rather rustic, with a fair amount of alcohol and leafy pungency mingled with some greenish accents and slight menthol and nutmeg spice. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are rather blocky, and flow into a rather sour finish. I'd have liked a little more depth and verve; it's not settled, but not really chomping at the bit either.
1 star

Capanna
Capanna Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and a bit riper than some, with cherry plum fruit supported by greenish accents and a fair amount of cedar, and also a fair amount of alcohol. It needs time. On the palate it's fairly rich, with ripe cherry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity and tannins that are greenish and rather blocky, and flow into a decidedly tannic finish. It's still up in the air and tumbling; there's quite a bit of tannin, some from oak, and it needs at least a couple of years to begin to absorb it all. This said, I'd have liked a little more brightness overtones the fruit, which is slightly lacking in acidity.
1 star


La Gerla
La Gerla Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, and mentholated, with greenish notes and a fair amount of alcohol mingled with cocoa and some dark chocolate. A lot of wood, which at present overshadows the fruit. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense cocoa-laced cherry fruit supported by some berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a warm slightly splintery burr, and flow into a fisnish that quickly settles into lasting warmth. It's heavily oaked and needs a couple of years to digest it, though I think it will always be fairly oaky; my problem with it is that there's not as much fruit as I might have liked to contrast the oak. We'll see how it cleans up, in 2-3 years' time.
1 star

Fanti
Fanti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of alcohol and moderate shellac mingled with some vegetal notes and spice from wood, though there's less fruit than I had hoped for. Some cedar, however. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cour cherry fruit supported by lively sour cherry acidity and by tannins that have a lively peppery burr and flow into a bright sour cherry finish with lively tannic underpinning. It's very young, in a tart key that has a fair amount of wood it will have to absorb over the next 2-3 years, and will age well for a number of years thereafter. It's pleasant in a rather aggressive middle of the road key, but needs time for the nose to develop and the tannins to smooth. I would expect it to age well for at least 10-15 years.
2 stars

Fossacolle
Fossacolle Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections; it's darker than many. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some underbrush and a fair amount of cedar with some shellac and an underlying coolness, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and decidedly bitter, with moderately intense rather generic berry fruit supported by dusky bitterness and minerality more than acidity, and it flows into a rather bitter finish with a blocky greenish tannic underpinning. I'd have liked more fruit than it displays. This said, it's woefully young, and frankly overtannic, at least for me; I wonder if it will ever absorb all the tannins.
1 star

L'Aietta
L'Aietta Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Fairly rich almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is ripe, with cherry plum fruit supported by a fair amount of alcohol and some sweetish accents that are in part the alcohol, and also by greenish accents and some spice. On the palate it's not as rich as I expected; there's fairly ripe smooth berry fruit that's supported by moderate sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, with a distinctly bitter graphite underpinning and flow into a warm rather bitter finish that gives way to dry greenish tannins. It's pleasant in a fairly up front key, though a little more richness and charge to the fruit would have been nice, especially in the finish, which I found overly tannic and dry. It needs another couple of years at least to come together, and will then age for a decade at least.
1 star

La Fiorita
La Fiorita Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and quite green, with chalky accents and some red berry fruit as well, though what opens is the greenish vegetal cast; there's also greenish spice and some greenish acidity; it's powerful but the fruit is taking second seat to other aspects. On the palate it's quite ripe, with cherry plum fruit supported by quite a bit of alcohol and a fair amount of sweetness that is in part from alcohol, while there are also dusky bitter accents, which emerge more in the finish, while the tannins are ample and fairly well polished, flowing into a spicy tannic finish. It's a bit disjointed and needs a couple of years to get its bearings. It's quite aggressive, with tannins that make it rather dry.
1 star

Piombaia
Piombaia Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit disjointed, with greenish accents mingled with some cedar and some berry fruit, and also a fair amount of alcohol and some shellac, which is likely from wood. On the palate it's ample and a bit soft, with broad sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity that has some red currant to it, and by tannins that are ample and smooth, and flow into a fairly soft tannic cherry finish with bright tart sour berry fruit acidity. It needs a year the tannins to smooth and for the nose to come together, but it's pleasant in a fairly tart aggressive key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it, and it will also age nicely for a number of years. If you prefer rounder more ripe fruit driven wines it will work less well for you.
2 stars

Poggio Antico
Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim paling to almandine. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of cedar mingled with greenish accents and some spice, and also some vegetal notes and slight herbs and brambles, with some pungent wood smoke, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense rather dusky cherry fruit that has a slightly dilute feel to it, supported more by bitterness than by acidity (though there is some of that too) and by tannins that are quite dry, and flow into a clean dry tannic finish. It's a bit thin, and I found myself wishing for more fruit to better balance the tannins, This said, it does manage a certain grace, and will become ethereal with time. I would simply have expected a little more from the 2006 vintage, though it is in keeping with Poggio Antico's style, which revolves more around finesse than power..
2 stars

Verbena
Verbena Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with considerable red berry fruit supported by some balsamic accents and green leather with pleasant spice as well; it's fairly rich and though young does display a certain grace. On the palate it's richer than I expected, with brandied cherry fruit supported by moderate balsamic acidity and quite a bit of alcohol, and by considerable bitterness, while the tannins are quite bitter and rather dusky, and it flows into a fairly alcoholic finish with strong tannic underpinning. It's a bit disjointed, and quite ripe with a lot of alcohol and quite a bit of tannin that has to be absorbed, while there isn't as much acidity as I might have hoped for. I would give it 3-5 years to come together, and then drink it with a steak or roast.
1 star

Bellaria
Bellaria Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is greenish, with a fair amount of alcohol and some spice. Not much fruit, however. On the palate it's full, and fairly soft, with cherry plum fruit supported by quite a bit of alcohol, which contributes to its sweet feel, and by moderate berry fruit acidity, while the tannins are ample and rather dusky, flowing into a clean rather dry tannic finish with sour cherry underpinning. I would have liked a little more richness and verve to the fruit. This said, it needs a couple of years to get its bearings and come together, and will subsequently age well for a decade at least.
1 star

Caprili
Caprili Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with quite a bit of shellac mingled with spice and cedar, but not much fruit; there is however a fair amount of alcohol too, and some leafy underbrush. On the palate it's fairly rich, and riper than many, with cherry plum fruit supported by bright plum laced acidity and tannins that are ample and rather blocky in youth, and flow into a warm fairly bright cherry plum finish with dry tannic underpinning. It's riper than I might have guessed from the nose, and also rather alcoholic; this said it needs another couple of years for the nose to catch up and the tannins to smooth, and will then work well for you if you like ample, fruit driven wines that are quite ripe, but do have a firm tannic underpinning. If you prefer livelier more aggressive wines it won't work as well for you.
2 stars

La Velona
La Velona Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with sour berry fruit supported by some green leather and quite a bit of cedar that emerges powerfully with the second swish, and quite a bit of alcohol as well. On the palate it's ample, with dusky cherry plum fruit supported by moderately intense plum acidity, and by tannins that are greenish and blocky, and flow into a fairly rich greenish tannic finish with lasting bitterness. It's still quite young, and needs another couple of years to get its bearings, at which point it will be pleasant in a fairly aggressive key, I think, and is something to consider only if you like this style.
1 star

Lazzeretti
Lazzeretti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some alcohol and fairly direct vegetal accents, with quite a bit of shellac as well, which is from wood. On the palate it's brighter than I expected, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by bright sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are ample and cedar laced, with a warm peppery burr that flows into a clean cedar laced berry fruit finish that's fairly long, winding up with tannic notes. It's quite young, and though it is a little awkward -- one has the impression of a teen in the middle of a growth spurt -- it will I think do interesting things over the next couple of years, and age well for at least a decade.
1 star

Podere Le Ripi
Podere le Ripi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, with a great rush of oak that is almost like a time warp to the glory days of the barrique, with some spice and moderate alcohol, but little else. It's like sniffing a barrel. On the palate it's unusual, with moderately intense savory berry fruit supported by an odd mix of chemical and cedar that is certainly wood-fruit interaction, and tannins that are warm and cedar laced, flowing into a spicy, peppery tannic finish with lasting mineral berry fruit acidity and metallic notes. A terrific amount of wood, and though the wine is doing its best to digest it, it never will completely.
1 star

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Thank you for taking the time to write and post all of your reviews. I am in Montalcino right now and am finding them very helpful. Thank you again!