Chianti was once a geographic term for the region between Florence and Siena, and also to the wine made in the area. The geographic term still holds, but thanks to savvy marketers of the early 1900s, who realized the word "Chianti" helped sell wines and therefore slapped it on anything made in (roughly) central Tuscany, the wine term has, shall we say, expanded, gaining nuanced flavors with time.
What was once simply called Chianti is now called Chianti Classico to indicate it comes from (roughly) what is marked as Chianti on topographic maps. Everything else over a vast area that extends from the Colline Pisane to below Montalcino (far south of Siena), to Arezzo, and to north of Florence was simply called Chianti. However the area is too big to be manageable, and as a result a number of Chianti subzones have been established, to allow the winemakers of the respective areas to tie their best wines more closely to their land, while (if they want) labeling their base wines Chianti, which is now something of a catchall.
As one might guess, Chianti Colli Senesi is the Sienese subzone of the Chianti appellation, though calling it a subzone is not quite correct. The Province of Siena, like most of Tuscany, is geologically complex, and has several broad swaths of territory that do quite well as grain fields but are not particularly suitable for vineyards. Therefore the Chianti Colli Senesi zone is actually three fairly large islands (for want of a better term) of viticulturally suitable land separated by the swaths of grain.
One of these islands is north of Siena, bordering the Chianti Classico zone and extending via Monteriggioni and Poggibonsi to San Gimignano. The other two are south, one in the western part of the Provice, from Murlo to Montalcino, and the other in the eastern part, from Sinalunga and Trequanda past Montepulciano and all the way to the border with Umbria.
Given the extent of the appellation, one cannot really expect continuity of terroir, and indeed differences in terroir do result in differences in the wines. In addition, as is the case with the other Chianti appellations, winemakers have a fairly free hand when it comes to the grapes they use: The Disciplinare says the wine must be made from at least 75% Sangiovese (it can be up to 100% Sangiovese), and can contain up to 25% uva complimentari, which can also include the traditional white grapes now prohibited in Chianti Classico, and also international varietals, with a provision that Cabernet (Franc, Sauvignon or both together) not exceed 10%. Winemakers are free to age the Vino D'annata, which is released the year following the harvest, as they prefer. The Riserva, released 2 years after the harvest, must instead spend at least 8 months in wood (small barrels, large casks, or a combination of the two as the winemaker prefers) and 4 months in bottle.
I wrote the above to introduce a Chianti Colli Senesi presentation organized by Filippo Bartolotta , and shortly after the presentation was invited to a Consorzio tasting in Siena; the current vintage of the Vino Base and the Riserva, rigorously blind.
I of course accepted, and enjoyed many of the younger Vini D'Annata, which are light quaffing wines of the kind one sets out at the beginning of the meal, drinks, and wants more of. To be honest, these are wines I think we need more of, because they go well with foods, supporting rather than distracting, and display a pleasing grace as well.
There were also older wines, both vini d'annata and riserve, which were more of a mixed bag; while I liked some I found others to be trying too hard -- they obviously wanted to be Big Important Wines, but weren't quite making it. A few, instead, were graceful, echoing the vino base in a slightly richer key, and these I rather liked.
The wines, tasted December 14 2011, in the order of the Vini Base, which began with 2010 and worked back:
Poggio Salvi
Poggio Salvi Caspagnola Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG 2010
Deep cherry ruby pale rim. The bouquet is vinpus, berry fruit with brambly notes and some iodine. Fresh brambly. On the palate it's light, with fresh cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and tannins that have a slight greenish underlay and flow into a fairly dry tannic finish. Simple and direct, a quaffing wine that will go quickly.
1 star
Carpineta Fontalpino
Carpineta Fontalpino Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG 2010
Deep purple cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with pleasing floral notes, violets, some berry fruit and currants too with slight mentholated notes and hints jammy accents. On the palate it's light, with bright cherry black currant fruit supported by moderate currant (not red) acidity and tannins that flow into a clean fresh fruit driven finish. Pleasant in a fresh fruit driven key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it considerably.
2 stars
Campopalazzi
Campopalazzi Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG 2010
Black cherry ruby with black reflections and paler rim. The bouquet is fresh, with cherry fruit supported by a mix of violets and some greenish notes, and by some grape jam as well. On the palate it's fairly light, with bright berry fruit supported by slightly brambly acidity and tannins that flow into a clean brambly finish. Pleasant, and will drink well with foods, quite versatile with lesser grilled meats and similar, also pasta with meat sauce and similar dishes.
2 stars
Campopalazzi Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG 2008
Deep black cherry ruby, close to poured ink, with cherry rim. The bouquet is dusky, with plum prune fruit supported by some camphor and slight dried orange peel with a savory underpinning as well. On the palate it's moderately intense with moderate plum fruit supported more by minerality than acidity, and by tannins that are glancing and flow into a glancing tannic finish with some bitter accents. I'd have liked more zest than it displays, and also richer fruit.
1 star
Campopalazzi Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva DOCG 2009
Impenetrable black almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with cherry plum fruit supported by some gum Arabic and moderate acidity. Still coming together, but gives an impression of being rather lunky. On the palate it's medium bodied with fairly intense peppery fruit supported by moderate acieity and tannins that have a warm peppery burr and flow into a peppery finish. It's angry, and I would have liked more richness and ripeness to the fruit.
1 star
Rubicini
Rubicini Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG 2010
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim paling to white. The bouquet is a bit rustic, with animal notes and some barnyard tang mingled with some red berry fruit and balsamic acidity. The palate reflects the nose, with sour balsam laced berry fruit with some savory notes and tannins that have a slight peppery burr. It's more aggressive and more rustic in style, and a wine that you will have to like the style to like.
1 star
Rubicini Tripudio Rosso Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep black cherry ink with cherry rim. Quite charged. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some cherry fruit laced with hints of cumin seed spice and some stable straw too, as well as a slight airiness. On the palate it's fairly light, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by minerality and slightly oxidative hazelnut shell aromas that flow into a fairly long hazelnut laced finish.
1 star
Salcheto
Salcheto Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG 2010
Deep pyrope ink with purple rim. The bouquet is moderately intense -- gives impression of being behind -- with iodine and cherry plum fruit with some minerality as well. Pleasant and if it develops will be rather voluptuous. On the palate it's fairly rich, with cherry plum fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by light tannins that have a slight brambly burr and flow into a clean rather bitter finish that's moderately long. Pleasantly fresh, and enjoyable.
2 stars
Vincenzo Cesani
Vincenzo Cesani Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG 2010
Deep black cherry with violet reflections and cherry rim. Quite dark. The bouquet is a bit more rustic, with balsamic accents and some stable straw mingled with greenish notes and some menthol, savory accents too. On the palate it's fairly light, and fairly sour, with sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and tannins that have a greenish burr and flow into a greenish finish. It's more rustic than some, and a wine that you will like if you like the style (I rather do). If you prefer softer wines or wines with riper fruit it won't work for you.
1 star
Cantina Sociale Tufo del Gruccione
Cantina Sociale Tufo del Gruccione Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG 2010
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fresh, with slightly dusky cherry plum fruit that has some jammy notes, violets, and some savory accents. On the palate it's light, with bright cherry fruit supported by mineral cherry acidity and by tannins that have a mineral underpinning and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. Pleasant, and quite approachable, will drink quickly.
2 stars
Montepescini
Montepescini Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG 2010
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim the bouquet is fairly intense, with violets and red berry fruit supported by some black currants and slight acidity, and by slight dusky bitterness as well. On the palate it's moderately intense, with fairly tart fruit supported by bitter minerality more than acidity, and by tannins that have a brambly underlay and flow into a rather bitter greenish finish. It's fairly direct, in a slightly more mineral key than some, with acidity and bramble more evident on the palate, and while this makes it less enjoyable far from the table it will help it work with foods, from pasta sauces through simple grilled meats, and also fried meats and vegetables.
2 stars
Montepescini Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with almandine in the rim, which pales to white. The bouquet is fairly rich, with slightly balsamic sour berry fruit and cherry with some wild strawberry accents, some menthol, and some currant jam acidity. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by strawberry currant acidity and by tannins that are ample and slightly blocky as Sangiovese's tannins sometimes are, and it flows into a clean rather savory fruit laced finish. Pleasant, though more of a food wine than a wine to sip by the glass far from the table.
2 stars
Montepescini Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense with some warmth and some alcohol, and slight spice, but lacking in definition, and I found myself looking for but not finding much in the way of fruit. On the palate it's ample, with moderate rather bitter red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that are glancing and flow into a glancing finish with slight cedar. I'd have liked more depth and richness; this is not what I look for in a Riserva.
1 star
Geografico
Geografico Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG 2010
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit and slight gum Arabic. Needs time. On the palate it's direct, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and fairly light tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a sour cherry finish with brambly tannic underpinning. Quite direct, an simple food wine that will work well with hearty legume dishes, pasta dishes and simple grilled meats
1 star
Geografico Torri Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva DOCG 2008
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and rather savory, with some berry fruit but not that much; it's in a holding pattern of sorts and not about to reveal much. On the palate it's more interesting in a direct way, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a dusky shadowy feel to them and flow into a clean rather savory finish with tannic underpinning. It will work well as a food wine though it's not for sipping far from the table. Fairly direct.
1 star
ITAS La Selva Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG 2010
Black cherry ruby with black reflections and pink rim. The bouquet is pungent, with wet leaves and some berry fruit supported by alcohol and slight greenish accents with some sea salt too. On the palate it's light, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by wild strawberry acidity and fairly light tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a warm sour berry fruit finish. Pleasant and will be a versatile food wine.
1 star
Il Ciliegio
Il Ciliegio Poggio Orlando Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG 2010
Pale black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim paling to white. The bouquet is fresh, with cherry fruit supported by minerality and some jammy accents, slight menthol, and slight strawberry acidity. On the palate it's fresh, with pleasant slightly greenish cherry fruit supported by brambly acidity and by tannins that are greenish and have a slight burr, flowing into a fairly dry tannic finish. Pleasant and versatile, but a food wine rather than something to sip far from the table.
2 stars
Il Ciliegio Poggio Orlando Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva DOCG 2008
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense with savory notes and some gum Arabic supporting warmth more than fruit. On the palate it's similar, with savoriness and warmth and tannins that have a vegetal burr, but fruit that is frankly more marginal than I might have expected. It will work well with foods, but in a Riserva I look for more fruit and depth.
1 star
Felsina Castello di Farnetella
Felsina Castello di Farnetella Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG 2009
Impenetrable black cherry ruby with some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with sour cherry fruit supported by slight greenish balsamic accents; it gives an impression of being held down. On the palate it's medium bodied, with sour cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by tannins that have a dusky graphite burr and flow into a brooding fairly bitter finish. It's a bit dusky, and though it will drink well with foods I might have liked a little more verve.
2 stars
Il Colombaio
Il Colombaio Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG 2009
Deep black cherry ruby with some orange in the rim. The bouquet is eye opening, with a great gout of cedar at the outset, some mint, and some minerality. Not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied with moderate fruit and rather flat, there's not much acidity, while the tannins are sweet and smooth, and leave vanilla on the tongue. It's overshadowed by the wood, which doesn't have the strong feel of long barrique aging, but is very much there.
1 star
Bonfio Tenuta Poggiolo
Bonfio Tenuta Poggiolo Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG 2009
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with violets and berry fruit supported by some dusky notes and slight plum/grape jam. Fruit driven. On the palate it's pleasant in a ripe but not overripe key, with cherry plum fruit supported by savory acidity and some peppery accents, and smooth fairly round soft tannins that flow into a fairly long savory finish with slight peppery notes and plum fruit supported by mineral acidity that's more intense than I expected from the ripeness of the fruit; it keeps the wine from being overly soft --there are tannins and there is acidity and it will drink well with foods.
2 stars
Bonfio Tenuta Poggiolo Il Poggiolo Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG 2005
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to white. The bouquet is fairly fresh, with warm berry fruit supported by acidity that has slight balsamic accents and some menthol, and some wet leafy underbrush as well. Pleasant and brings to mind dappled shade. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by greenish mentholated accents and some green leather, also slight leaf tobacco, and by tannins that are warm and smooth and flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish that gains definition from nice acidity. Pleasant in a fairly traditional key revolving around acidity and its interaction with fruit and tannin, and also pleasantly mature; if you like the style you will enjoy it considerably. If you prefer softer or riper or younger wines it won't work as well for you, though you might find yourself changing your mind if you drink it with a steak.
2 stars
Montenidoli
Montenidoli Il Garrulo Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG 2009
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim paling to white. The bouquet is dusky, with some bitter notes and plum prune fruit supported by slight savory accents with some minerality. On the palate it's ample and rather bitter with moderate cherry fruit and tannins that have a warm savory burr, and flow into a rather bitter tannic finish. It's not as bright as I might have liked.
1 star
Montenidoli Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG 2007
Deep black cherry with slight almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly direct, and savory, with some berry fruit and some spicy warmth, and with more swishing underbrush and wet leaves. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by minerality and savory notes, and by tannins that are glancing and flow into a rather bitter tannic finish. It's a rather brooding wine that is in a "leave me alone" phase, but does show promise. I would give it a couple of years to come around.
2 stars
Umberto Tortorella
Umberto Tortorella Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG 2009
Deep black cherry with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some sour berry fruit, but not much, some plum, and slight savory balsamic accents. It's hiding behind a screen, as it were. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with moderate cherry plum fruit supported more by minerality than acidity and by dry brambly tannins that flow into a dry brambly finish. I'd have liked greater richness of fruit and more brightness; it has a settled feel to it.
1 star
Montalpruno
Montalpruno Fontanelle Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG 2009
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and slight almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with cherry plum fruit supported by slight greenish balsamic acidity and some spice. On the palate it's bright, with fresh cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a slight peppery burr and flow into a clean peppery finish with underlying sour berry fruit . Pleasant, and will work well with foods.
2 stars
Montalpruno Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim, it's close to poured ink. The bouquet is a rustic, with wet stable straw and some balsamic notes mingled with lathered horse and greenish leaf tobacco acidity. Not much fruit. On the palate it's again fairly rustic, with savory berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity that has a slight animal tang to it, and flows into a rather bitter savory finish with tannic underpinning. If you like the style you will enjoy it, but you have to like the style.
1 star
Campriano
Campriano Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG 2009
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit more rustic than some, with greenish accents and some wet stable straw and a savory underpinning. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity, a mix currant and strawberry, and by tannins that are moderately intense and rather splintery, flowing into a clean splintery finish. Deft, and a food wine of the sort one sets out and drinks, will work well with simple grilled meats and also fried meats and vegetables.
2 stars
Campriano Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with savory notes and some balsamic warmth, and some gum Arabic with hints of prunes, but not much in the way of red fruit. On the palate it's quite direct, with sour cherry fruit supported by moderate mineral more than citric acidity, and by tannins that have a cedar laced rather bitter burr, and flow into a fairly long bitter finish. I would have expected more of a Riserva; it feels forced.
1 star
San Gregorio
San Gregorio Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG 2009
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is a bit oxidized, giving pecorino cheese aromas and savory notes at first swish, and then leathery accents following. On the palate it's ample and dusky, with moderate cherry fruit supported by some acidity and by tannins that are blocky, and flow into a dry tannic finish.
1 star
Bichi Borghesi
Bichi Borghesi Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG 2009
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, some acidity, slight sour berry fruit some greenish accents too. On the palate it's fresh and direct, with moderately intense fairly sour cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are warm and brambly, with some savory notes as well; flows into fairly long savory finish. A very direct food wine that will support what it's served with without demanding center stage, and as such a wine of a kind I rather enjoy. Not for far from the table.
1 star
Bichi Borghesi Coppiole Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with warmth and some wood smoke, and slight sour berry fruit, but only slight, and I would have liked more Also some gum Arabic. On the palate it's ample with richer sour cherry fruit than I expected from the nose, supported by savory tannins that have a splintery burr, and by some savory minerality. It is better on the palate than the nose, but doesn't make that step up that one expects to find in a Riserva.
1 star
Casale Falchini
Falchini Titolato Colombaio Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG 2009
Almandine with black reflections and some orange in the rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with sour berry fruit and some spice, also greenish accents. On the palate it's more interesting, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by slightly brambly sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are fairly smooth, though they do have slight greenish Sangiovese accents, and flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish. A pleasant food wine that will work well with pasta dishes, simple meats, and also has the zestiness necessary for fried foods; with time I expect the nose will gain ground, leading the wine to improve considerably. The score reflects the moment..
2 stars
Cercignano
Cercignano Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG 2008
Pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim; it's lighter and more garnet colored than most. The bouquet is warm and rather balsamic, with sour berry fruit and slight lathered horse supported by savory acidity and some greenish notes. On the palate it's medium bodied with bright sour cherry fruit supported by lively sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are warm, with a slight savory burr, and flow into a long warm berry fruit finish. Quit pleasant in a warm fairly light traditional key, and if you like the style it's one of those wines Italians say is da bere a secchiate, to drink by the bucket.
2 stars
Cercignano Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some savory notes, slight wood smoke, and some cedar, but not much in the way of fruit -- concentrating reveals red berry fruit that's more generic than it should be. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by fairly bright acidity and by tannins that are warm and rather savory, flowing into a fairly bright sour berry fruit finish. The palate is more interesting than the nose thanks to acidity, and the wine will drink well with foods, though I would expect more depth from a Riserva.
1 star
Casale Borella
Casale Borella Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG 2008
Deep black almandine with almandine rim paling to white. The bouquet is moderately intense, with lathered horse and some wet stable straw supported by balsamic notes and some savory acidity that bring bouillon to mind. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by peppery spice -- almost petillance and by minerality more than acidity, flowing into a warm sour finish in which some acidity does emerge. I'd have liked a little more depth.
1 star
Castel di Pugna
Castel di Pugna Ellera Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG 2008
Deep black almandine with almandine rim paling towards orange. the bouquet is dusky, with wet leaves and some underbrush mingled with savory notes and some red berry fruit, with slight plum as well, and hints of gum Arabic. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense rather dusky sour berry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a slight cedary feel to them and flow into a fairly bright savory finish. Direct, a food wine that will work well with what it is served with, though it's not so well suited to being drunk far from the table. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars
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