Despite the name, which translates as little sweet one, Dolcetto is a dry red wine, with characteristic bitter almond and berry fruit aromas on the nose, and rich lively fruit on the palate; by comparison with many other Italian red wines, especially Barbera, it is low in acidity, and were it not for its lively tannic bitterness it would be rather flat.
But there is that bitterness, and the end result can be quite graceful in a medium bodied sort of way -- the perfect wine to complement all sorts of foods, from carne cruda all'albese, the chopped raw beef that's Piemonte's answer to steak tartare, to pasta with the drippings of a roast or a red sauce (or even agnolotti, the classic Piemontese stuffed pasta with a meat filling) through simple grilled meats or light stews. Small wonder then that Dolcetto is what Piemontesi select to drink a tutto pasto, or with the meal.
The Dolcetto grape is grown in a broad swath of southern Piemonte, from Dogliani, which is west of and reaches higher elevations than the Barolo production zone, through Diano and Alba, and on east though Asti, Langhe Monregalesi, Acqui, and finally Ovada, in the Alessandrino. According to Nicolas Belfrage, the grape, which he calls "characterful," originated in the Acqui-Ovada area sometime before 1800 -- it's mentioned in a permit dating to 1799 -- and spread west with time. It's also grown western Liguria, where it's called Ormeasco, but is rare there.
From an administrative standpoint, Piemonte's Dolcetto can be divided into seven major appellations:
- Dolcetto di Dogliani
- Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba
- Dolcetto D'Alba
- Dolcetto D'Asti
- Dlocetto Langhe Monregalesi
- Dolcetto D'Acqui
- Dolcetto di Ovada
There is also a new entity, Dogliani DOCG, which takes the place of the old Dolcetto di Dogliani Superiore.
Though one might expect the appellations in which Dolcetto is a primary figure (all except Asti and Alba) to produce the best wines because the winemakers don't have other reds to distract them, this isn't the case: Some of the finest Dolcetti are from around Alba.
What one does note is a tendency to aim for greater power in some of the other appellations, especially Dogliani, which has gone so far as to rename its Dolcetto Superiore Dogliani. I have mixed feelings about this, in part because people unfamiliar with Dolcetto appellations -- the majority, I would venture to say -- will probably not make the Dogliani-Dolcetto connection when they see a bottle of Dogliani, and therefore not know what it is (I have the same reservations about the Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba Appellation, which doesn't require its producers to include the word Dolcetto on their labels).
The other thing that bothers me about Dogliani (and some of the other Dolcetto Superiore wines) is this aim for power and desire to bulk up the wines; when I visited Dogliani a few years ago a number of producers told me that their wines had more dry extract than Barolo, that they were therefore Important Wines Worthy Of Aging.
While it's true that dry extract gives a quick-and-dirty estimate of concentration and structure, a concentrated Dolcetto is still a Dolcetto, whose hallmark (for me) is lively freshness of bouquet and sassy freshness on the palate. A Dolcetto that spends several years in bottle will loose that freshness, and, to be brutal, bring to mind a 40-year old who was beautiful in pictures taken 20 years ago, but has since grayed and sagged noticeably.
Bottom line: Dolcetto is a wine to enjoy when it's young and fresh. It will hold 3-4 years, but I would be leery of one that's much older.
And this brings us to production: Dolcetto the wine is a monovitigno, or single-vine wine made just from Dolcetto grapes; yields range some from Appellation to Appellation, with Acqui setting a maximum yield of 9.5 metric tons per hectare for the base wine, to Dogliani setting a maximum of 7 tons/hectare. These are maximums, and many producers will be harvesting significantly less to increase concentration.
Fermentation is generally in steel, with minimum alcohol level ranging from about 11% for base wines, and up to 13 for Superiore and Dogliani, both of which can go into wood. Dolcetto base can be released in the spring/summer following the harvest, while Dolcetto Superiore and Dogliani must be held longer, until November for Dogliani and until the January following the harvest, e.g. January 2006 for a 2005 vintage wine, for many of the Superiori.
The wines, tasted the week of September 6 2006 They're divided (roughly) by appellation.
Dolcetto D'Acqui
Cascina Bertolotto
Via P. Porro 36
15018 - Spigno Monferrato
Alessandria - Italia
http://www.cascinabertolotto.it/
Cascina Bertolotto Traversa La Cresta Dolcetto D'Acqui 2005
Lively ruby. The bouquet is quite fresh, with violets and berry fruit mingled with bitter almonds and some jammy overtones. Welcoming! On the palate it's light, with bright fruit supported by deft bitterness of the bitter almond variety that carries through into the finish quite strongly, while the tannins are slightly green and fairly pronounced. A nice wine for pizzas or succulent pasta dishes, that will also stand up to fattier grilled meats, e.g. sausages or burgers.
2 stars
Cascina Bertolotto Traversa La Muiette Dolcetto D'Acqui 2004
Deep ruby with black reflections. The bouquet gives an initial impression of being cooked that fades with swishing, to reveal ripe red berry fruit and mingled with bitter almonds and slight mineral notes. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite smooth, with pleasant red berry fruit supported by very smooth tannins and slight bitter overtones; there's not much acidity at all. Because of this softness it will drink well with slightly drier meats, say roast turkey breast (with gravy) or pork loin. By comparison with some of the other wines, it's also better suited to sipping far from the table. Worth seeking out.
2 stars
Marenco
Piazza V. Emanuele 10
15010 Strevi (AL)
http://www.marencovini.com/setinglese.htm
Marenco Le Anie Dolcetto D'Acqui 2005
Lively cherry ruby. The bouquet is fairly bright, with lively red berry fruit supported by some acidity and bitter almonds that open nicely. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by some slightly greenish tannins, and by moderate acidity that lows into a clean fairly bitter finish with tart peppery overtones; it's fairly direct, and will drink nicely with hearty pasta dishes, succulent grilled meats, and also has the acidity necessary to go well with fried foods.
1 star
Marenco Marchesa Dolcetto D'Acqui 2004
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is muted, with bitter almonds and some red berry fruit mingled with India ink. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by some bitter almonds, and by fairly intense graphite acidity that flows into a clean slightly bitter finish. It's a wine that will drink well with rich foods that beg something to clear the palate between bites, and if you like a slightly more rustic tannic style you will like it.
2 stars
Vigne Regali
Via Vittorio Veneto, 22
15019 Strevi (AL)
http://www.vigneregali.com/
Vigne Regali L'Ardì Dolcetto D'Acqui 2005
Lively cherry ruby with violet rim. The bouquet is quite fresh, with violets and cherry blossoms mingling with bitter almonds. Classic Dolcetto, and quite inviting. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright red berry fruit supported by pleasantly bitter tannins while there is moderate acidity to provide direction, and it flows fairly quickly into a clean berry fruit laced bitter almond finish. Nice, though just a touch short, and it will drink well with succulent grilled meats or light stews. Expect the bottle to go quickly.
2 stars
Vigne Regali Argusto Dolcetto D'Acqui 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections. Not quite poured ink, but headed that way. The bouquet is unusual, with candied fruit mingled with hot iron and a fair amount of butterscotch, which I usually associate more with oaked white wines than reds; with more swishing more wood scents come up. On the palate it's full, and smooth, and soft, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by tannins that are soft and have distinct cedar overtones that flow into a cedar laced finish that isn't quite licking a barrel slat, but headed in that direction. If you like this style you may like it, but I found it a bit much.
1 star
Cascina Il Cartino
Passeggiata Bellavista 36
Acqui Terme (AL)
Tel. 0131323483
Cascina il Cartino Beatrice Rovere Dolcetto D'Acqui 2005
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fresh, with violets and bitter almonds overlying cherry and berry fruit with some bitter almond blossoms as well. Pleasant. On the palate it's medium bodied, and quite smooth, with ample fairly rich slightly sour cherry fruit supported by bitter almond bitterness and by ample smooth tannins that again have a pleasant bitter overlay, and flow into a clean fairly bitter tannic finish. A pleasant food wine that will work quite well with lesser grilled meats or light stews, and will also be a good choice with simple pasta dishes. In short, a good all around wine that would be a nice wine to drink day by day. Worth seeking out.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Cascina Sant'Ubaldo.
Regione Botti, 26 Moirano
Acqui Terme (AL)
http://www.cascinasantubaldo.it/
Cascina Sant'Ubaldo Dolcetto D'Acqui 2004
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is muted, with a mixture of mineral acidity and bitter almond blossoms mingling with spice and berry fruit; it opens nicely, gaining sea salt accents as it does. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense bitter red berry fruit supported by slightly greenish tannins and by moderate acidity that flow into a moderately tart tannic finish. Pleasant in a fairly direct key, and will drink quite well with foods -- it's one of those wines that supports what its served with without distracting. Expect it to go quickly.
1 star
Cascina Sant'Ubaldo Dolcetto D'Acqui Superiore 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is intense, with bitter almonds and red berry fruit mingled with mineral acidity and some greenish notes; the overall impression is harmonious. On the palate it's medium bodied and smoother than one might have expected from the nose, with ample red berry fruit supported by moderately intense bitter acidity and by tannins that start smooth, though they reveal a bitter slightly splintery underpinning as they flow into the finish. It's more powerful than one would normally expect a Dolcetto to be, though I wouldn't call it bulked up; simply it's not light and graceful, and this is the vintage revealing its characteristics. It will in any case drink well with succulent red meats or light stews, and also with hearty pasta sauces and such.
2 stars
Antica Vineria
Via IV Novembre, 15
14040 Castel Rocchero (AT)
Tel. 0141 760131
Antica Vineria Il Ruyà Dolcetto D'Acqui 2004
Fairly deep cherry ruby. The bouquet is bright, with sour cherry fruit laced with some bitter almond and slight citric acidity and slight greenish notes. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright sour cherry fruit that has some red currant acidity, and is supported by fairly light tannins; most of the direction comes from the acidity, which is pleasant and not overbearing. Because of its acidity it will drink well with succulent to fatty grilled meats, or also be a good bet with fried foods. If you like smoother softer wines, it's not as good a choice.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Contero
Reg. Contero 22
15019 Strevi (AL)
Tel. 0143 682132
Contero Dolcetto D'Acqui 2004
Deep cherry ruby. The bouquet is unusual, with intense India ink at first wish, supported by some medicinal overtones and cold iron. On the palate it's medium bodied with moderate fruit supported by smooth tannins, and moderate acidity. It's settled, and frankly flat.
No Star
Antica Casa Vinicola Scarpa
Via Montegrappa 6
14049 Nizza Monferrato (AT)
http://www.scarpavini.it/
Antica Casa Vinicola Scarpa La Selva di Moirano Dolcetto D'Acqui 2003
Black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is pungent, with some reduced scents -- wet underbrush and burnt matches -- at first swish, that give way to unusual jammy notes with a bitter almond overlay. On the palate it's full, and almost syrupy in feel, with considerable bitterness and red berry fruit as well, with some savory overtones that flow into a bitter finish. It's disjointed, and it feels as if the must was overly concentrated when they started, something that's quite possible considering how hot the summer of 2003 was.
1 star
Dolcetto di Ovada
Tacchino Luigi
Via Martiri della Benedicta, 26 3
15060 Castelletto D'Orba (AL)
Tel. 0143 830115,
Tacchino Luigi Dolcetto di Ovada 2005
Delicate cherry ruby with pinkish rim. The bouquet is fresh, with cherry blossoms mingled with almond blossoms and some bitter overtones; youth in a glass. On the palate it's light, with deft red berry fruit supported by moderately intense sweet tannins, and slight acidity that directs it into a clean fruit laced finish. A first-rate food wine; you can set a bottle out with simple meats, vegetables, or pasta dishes, and expect to need to replace it almost immediately. As such well worth seeking out.
1 star
Tacchino Luigi Du Riva Dolcetto di Ovada 2003
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with deep cherry rim. The bouquet is cedar laced, with some stewed berry fruit as well and metallic overtones. The palate reflects the nose, with moderate fruit and quite a cit of bitter slightly metallic cedar that flows into a long metallic finish with cedar underpinning. It's not working for me.
1 star
Ghera
Frazione Battagliosi 21
15074 Molare (AL)
Tel. 010 566253
Ghera Dolcetto di Ovada 2005
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fresh, with bright red berry fruit supported by some raspberry acidity that is nicely balanced by bitter almonds and hints of graphite. Engaging, with the bright eyes of a teen. On the palate it's lively, in a fairly aggressive key, with bright sour berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by slightly greenish bitter tannins that flow into a fairly quick bitter finish. It's a wine that looks one in the eye without blinking, and is quite up front; it's also a wine that will work very well with foods, especially simple grilled meats or light stews. Expect it to go quickly, and you may need a second bottle.
2 stars
Ghera Albareto Dolcetto di Ovada 2004 Superiore
Deep cherry ruby with black rim. The bouquet is frankly woody; it's like sniffing a cedar chest with some underlying spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with moderate fruit, and tannins that have a distinct cedar overlay and flow into a cedar laced finish. Dolcetto doesn't take well to oak, at least for me.
1 star
Terre Da Vino S.p.A.
Via Bergesia, 6
12060 Barolo (Cuneo)
http://www.terredavino.it/
Terre da Vino La Gaggina Dolcetto di Ovada 2005
Deep cherry ruby with violet rim. The bouquet is quite fresh, with violets and cherry blossoms mingling with some bitter almonds and pleasant red berry fruit with slight mineral notes and airy dappled shade as well. Youth in a glass, and a pleasant youth too. On the palate it's medium bodied, with deft red berry fruit that agins direction from moderate tart berry acidity, and is supported by clean slight greenish tannins that flow into a deft finish. Quite nice, and will drink very well with foods, especially simple grilled meats or light stews. It's one of those bottles that will simply vanish when set out on the table, and as such well worth seeking out.
2 stars
Tenuta Carlotta e Rivarola
Frazione Grillano, 4 -
15076 Ovada. (AL)
Tel. 0143 821085
Tenuta Carlotta e Rivarola Carlotta e Rivarola Dolcetto di Ovada 2004
Black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with red berry fruit supported by fairly strong greenish eucalyptus overtones and some peppery spice mingled with almond blossom bitterness. On the palate it's medium bodied, and quite smooth with ample slightly sour cherry and red berry fruit that gains direction from moderate acidity, and is supported by slightly greenish bitter tannins that flow into a clean bitter tannic finish. Pleasant enough, though a touch settled, and will drink well with foods, in particular light stews or simple grilled meats.
1 star
Carlotta e Rivarola Gherlan - Castello di Grillano Dolcetto di Ovada 2003
Deep black garnet ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is charged, with some shellac and spice, mingled with alcohol, but not much fruit and no floral accents. On the palate it's much of the same; with not much fruit, supported by tannins that seem settled and fading. The heat of the summer cooked the life out of it, and it's fading fast.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Castello di Tagliolo
Via Castello, 1
15050 Tagliolo Monferrato (AL)
http://www.castelloditagliolo.com/
Castello di Tagliolo Dolcetto di Ovada 2004
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is greenish, with cedar (from grape, not wood) and eucalyptus mingled with red berry fruit and some bitter almonds, with an undercurrent of toasted almonds. On the palate it's medium bodied, and quite smooth, with fairly rich red berry fruit that gains direction from moderate sourness, and is supported by very smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly sour finish that's fairly long. It will drink well with slightly drier meats, or with light stews.
1 star
Castello di Tagliolo Dolcetto di Ovada 2003 Superiore
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with shellac and some peppery spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with, again, not much fruit; the structure is mostly from tannins that have a slight cedary feel to them, while there is also moderate bitterness, but not much in the way of either acidity or fruit. It has flagged, for me.
1 star
Azienda Agricola La Guardia
Villa Delfini
15010 Morsasco (AL)
Tel. 0144.73076
La Guardia Il Gamondino Dolcetto di Ovada 2004 Superiore
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with slight animal tang -- horse hair -- mingling with underbrush and bitter almond, with underbrush pungency as well. On the palate it's full, and quite smooth, with moderately intense sour berry fruit that gains direction (just barely) from sour berry fruit acidity, and is supported by ample smooth tannins that flow into a clean slightly bitter fruit finish. It's bigger and smoother than one might expect a Dolcetto to be, and to be frank lumbers, giving an impression of trying too hard; it will in any case drink well with drier red or white meats.
1 star
La Guardia Villa Delfini Dolcetto di Ovada 2003 Superiore
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some red berry fruit supported by India ink bitterness. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by clean slightly bitter India ink laced tannins, and by moderate acidity that is sufficient to keep it from flagging; it flows into a clean slightly bitter finish. It comes across as fairly direct, and I'd have liked more freshness than there is, though this is a function of age -- it's not as fresh as it was when it was young, and this goes to show how important youth is for a Dolcetto, because one can tell that this was a very nice wine when younger. Now it has settled, rather like a once-pretty individual who now needs support.
1 star
Casa Vinicola Montobbio Di Armando & Aurelio Enologi S.n.c.
Via Lavagello 29/A
15060 Castelletto D'Orba (AL)
http://www.altomonferrato.com/
Montobbio Dario Dolcetto di Ovada 2003 Superiore
Garnet ruby with almandine rim. On almost wouldn't recognize it as a Dolcetto. The bouquet is mature, with some balsamic notes mingled with sea salt, and sour red berry fruit; there's also an underpinning of animal tang. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite smooth, with ample tannic structure but not much in the way of fruit; what there is is slightly leathery red berry fruit, and the finish is warm and tannic. It's better than the basic 2003 Ovada Dolcetti, but is also settled, and I found myself missing the freshness of the younger vintages.
1 star
Dolcetto D'Alba
These wines, taken as a group, are distinctly darker.
Cascina Casanova
Frazione Madonna di Como, 48
12051 Alba (CN)
Tel. 0173 33716
Cascina Casanova Madonna di Como Dolcetto D'Alba 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, and fairly charged, with sour red berry fruit supported by a fair amount of acidity, and slight animal notes mingled with greenish hints of balsam. On the palate it's full, and bright, with lively acidity and bright jammy red berry fruit supported by moderately intense slightly bitter tannins that flow into a clean slightly bitter finish. It's pleasant, in a fairly aggressive slightly overripe key, and if you like this style you will enjoy it with succulent grilled meats.
2 stars
Drocco Luigi
Strada Sottoripa, 90
12051 Alba (CN)
http://www.vinidrocco.it/
Drocco Luigi Cascina Pontepietra Dolcetto D'Alba 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, with red berry fruit mingled with intense bitter almond and some smoke, with greenish almond notes as well. Nicely balanced, and almost chewy. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright red berry fruit supported by clean mineral acidity, and by tannins that have smooth India ink bitterness, and flow into a mineral laced finish. To be frank it falls a touch short on the palate; I'd have rathered more intensity to the fruit and the tannic bitterness, though it will drink nicely with foods and not impose overmuch.
1 star
Drocco Luigi Cascina Pontepietra Dolcetto D'Alba 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with bright berry fruit mingled with berry fruit blossoms and India ink bitterness with some nose tingling overtones and bitter almonds to add depth. On the palate it's medium bodied, with deft red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long clean berry fruit finish that gains definition from lasting bitterness. Quite pleasant, and is one of those wines that will seem to drink itself when you set it out at the table. What with? Grilled meats, or light stews. Worth seeking out.
2 stars
Drocco Luigi Luigi Drocco Dolcetto D'Alba 2004
Deep cherry ruby. The bouquet is fairly metallic, with greenish overtones and some spice. On the palate it's soft, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by clean tannins that have some bitter overtones and flow into a clean tannic finish. It's a bit settled, and I'd have liked more verve than it shows, though it will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Penna Luigi & Figli
Frazione S. Rocco Seno d'Elvio, 96
12051 Alba (CN)
http://www.pennaluigi-figli.it/
Penna Luigi e Figli Bricco Galante Dolcetto D'Alba 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with red berry fruit supported by bitter almonds and some India ink bitterness. On the palate it's medium bodied, with ample red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and clean slightly bitter tannins that flow into a clean fairly long finish; it's quick to write but quire pleasant, and a bottle will go very fast. Well worth seeking out.
2 stars
Penna Luigi e Figli Galante Dolcetto D'Alba Superiore 2004
Impenetrable pyrope with black lam rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with pronounced vegetal notes and spice mingled with some berry fruit, and hints of minerality and balsam. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly bright, fairly balsamic fruit that is supported by balsamic warmth and by fairly smooth tannins that do have some bitter overtones. It's pleasant enough, but not as fresh as I might have liked.
1 star
Tenuta Carretta
Località Carretta, 2
12040 Piobesi D'Alba (CN)
http://www.tenutacarretta.it/
Tenuta Carretta Tenuta Carretta Dolcetto D'Alba 2005
Deep cherry ruby with pinkish cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly fresh, with slightly balsamic red berry fruit supported by balsamic acidity and slight animal notes with greenish overtones; the overall impression is a touch rustic. On the palate it's medium bodied, and lively, with bright tart berry fruit supported by lively acidity, and by tannins that have a splintery balsamic burr and flow into a clean bitter finish. It's fairly rustic, and if you like an aggressive style with some bit to it you will like it, but if you prefer smoothness it won't work as well. In any case, it will drink well with fattier grilled meats or fried meats and vegetables, and if you like the style it will go quickly.
1 star
Cantina Tomaso Gianolio S.n.c.
Via Cuneo, n° 50
12045 - Fossano (CN)
Tel. 0172 61239
Gianolio Tomaso Dolcetto D'Alba 2005
Lively cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is quite fresh, with pleasant red berry fruit supported by violets and almond blossoms, with deft underlying greenish notes that provide considerable depth. On the palate it's medium bodied, with lively, deft red berry fruit that gains direction from moderately intense mineral acidity, and support from deft tannins that have faint cedar (from grape) overtones, and flow into a clean berry fruit laced finish. Quite nice, and will drink very well with foods, in particular lighter grilled meats or light stews, though one could also press it into service with pizza or simple pasta dishes. It's what an Italian would call a tutto pasto, suited to the entire meal, and it will go fast.
88-90
Gianolio Tomaso Dolcetto D'Alba 2004
Deep ruby with black reflections. The nose is rustic, with an abundance of pungent stable straw mingled with some underbrush and sea salt, while there's not much fruit to speak of. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rather languid savory cherry plum fruit supported by savory tannins that flow into a clean savory finish. Not quite seawater, but definitely a salty wine, and it's something to consider only if you like this fairly rustic style. If you do, it will work well with simple grilled meats, or light roasts or stews.
1 star
Cascina Albano
Strada Ovello 34,
Barbaresco (CN) - Piemonte
Tel. 0173635225
Cascina Albano Dolcetto D'Alba 2005
Deep cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with berry fruit and bitter almonds mingled with some spice and deft greenish overtones that have slight sea salt to them. Pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly bright red berry fruit that gains direction from moderate acidity, and is supported by clean dry tannins that have some India ink bitterness to them, and flow into a fairly long clean India ink laced finish in which the tannins carry as the fruit fades. It will drink nicely with simple red meats or light stews, and is pleasant, though I'd have liked a touch more fruit.
2 stars
Cascina Bruciata
Via Rio Sordo 19
12050 Barbaresco (CN)
Tel. 0173 638826
Cascina Bruciata Rian Dolcetto D'Alba 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit balanced by strong greenish notes and spicy undertones, which add a rather haunting depth. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright berry fruit supported by clean sweet tannins, while there is slightly greenish -- almost eucalyptus -- acidity to provide direction and lead into a fairly long spicy fruit finish with greenish overtones. Pleasant, in a direct, up front key, and has the cheeky open gaze of a teen; it will drink quite nicely with flavorful grilled meats or light stews, and will go quickly. In short, a nice food wine.
2 stars
Cascina Bruciata Vigneti in Rio Sordo Dolcetto D'Alba 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up red berry fruit supported by bitter almonds and some greenish spice. Harmonious. On the palate it's medium bodied, with deft berry fruit supported by clean bitter tannins that gain direction from moderate mineral acidity, and flow into a clean slightly bitter finish that's fairly long. Quite nice, and will drink very well with foods, especially simple grilled meats or light stews, though it will also handle pasta dishes or fried meats with ease. Expect the bottle to go quickly, and you may want another. Worth seeking out.
2 stars
Brezza Giacomo & Figli
Via Lomondo, 4
12060 BAROLO (CN)
http://www.brezza.it/
Brezza Giacomo e Figli San Lorenzo Dolcetto D'Alba 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with red berry fruit mingled with some citric acidity and bright bitter almond acidity with slight India ink as well. Refreshing, and pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly deft red berry fruit that gains direction from some citric acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that have some greenish overtones, and flow into a fairly long fruit laced finish that again gains direction from the greenish tannic notes. It's quite pleasant to drink and will work very well with simple grilled meats or light stews; drink it now to enjoy its freshness. A second bottle will come in handy.
2 stars
Damilano Azienda Agricola
Via Roma, 31
12060 BAROLO (Cuneo)
http://www.cantinedamilano.it/
Damilano Dolcetto D'Alba 2005
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with deep cherry rim. The bouquet is a bit unusual -- a fellow taster wonders about sawmills, whereas I find candied fruit mingled with cupcake and some greenish bitter undertones. Unusual in any case. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by bitter tannins that have graphite overtones, and hints of mineral acidity; I'd have liked greater life to the fruit and a touch more acidity to keep things up.
1 star
Terrenostre S.c.a.
Via San Martino, 4
12054 Cossano Belbo (Cuneo)
http://www.terrenostrescrl.it/
Terrenostre Vite Vecchia Dolcetto D'Alba 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing does bring up hints of sandalwood and slight berry fruit. On the palate it's brother than the nose suggests, with fairly tart red berry fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and by clean glancing tannins that flow into a fairly quick slightly bitter tannic finish. I'd have liked greater depth to the nose. This said, because of its acidity it will drink well with succulent red meats or simple stews.
1 star
Terrenostre Terrazzamenti Vigne Eroiche Dolcetto D'Alba 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is a bit wild, with balsam and greenish notes mingling with some berry fruit, stable straw, and considerable sea salt. On the palate it's medium bodied, and surprisingly languid, with moderately intense bright berry fruit supported by warm citric acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long clean tart finish. It's fairly rustic, but if you like the style will drink well with succulent grilled meats or light stews.
1 star
Terrenostre Picula Rusa Dolcetto D'Alba 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up some vegetal notes and hints of red berry fruit. It feels mature. On the palate it's medium bodied, with ample plum berry fruit that's quite soft, supported by moderate acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean sweet tannic finish; it is obviously from a hot vintage whose acidity faded, and will drink best with drier red or white meats.
1 star
Aurelio Settimo Azienda Agricola
Frazione Annunziata, 30
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.aureliosettimo.com/
Aurelio Settimo Dolcetto D'Alba 2005
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with deep cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is a bit cooked, with some smoky overtones, but not much in the way of fruit, nor floral accents. Rather, some underbrush and hints of wet leaves. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with soft moderately intense berry fruit supported by steely tannins, but not much in the way of acidity, and as a result it feels its way along. I'd have liked greater definition than I found.
1 star
Aurelio Settimo Dolcetto D'Alba 2004
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections. The nose is somewhat overripe, with moderate fruit and greenish overtones, but isn't as defined as I might have liked.. On the palate it's the same, clean cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins. Perfectly correct, but there isn't much spark to it.
1 star
Cascina Ballarin Azienda Agricola
Fraz. Annunziata, 115
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.cascinaballarin.it/
Cascina Ballarin Pilade Dolcetto D'Alba 2005
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is muted, with slight bitter almonds but not much fruit, though there are balsamic notes. It gives an impression of holding back. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich slightly balsamic red berry fruit supported by balsamic warmth and by smooth bitter slightly greenish tannins that flow into a greenish tannic finish with underlying fruit laced balsamic notes. It's a touch rustic, but if you like this style you will enjoy it, with succulent red meats or light stews. If you instead prefer studied smoothness and richness of fruit it's not for you.
2 stars
Cascina Ballarin Bussia Dolcetto D'Alba 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit mingled with slight underbrush and some spice, with hints of truffle as well. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by bitter tannins and with some mineral acidity that provides direction and carries into a long mineral finish. It's a touch coarser than some, but will drink well with grilled or stewed meats, and because of the acidity will also be a nice bet with fried meats and vegetables.
1 star
Negretti Azienda Agricola
Fraz. Santa Maria - Località Peso, 53
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.negrettivini.com/
Negretti Dolcetto D'Alba 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby. The bouquet is fairly intense, with moderate berry fruit laced with almond blossoms and cedar from grape more than wood, and some medicinal notes as well. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly bright sour berry fruit supported by considerable bitterness, and by smooth slightly greenish tannins that flow into a fairly long clean greenish finish. It's fairly direct, and up front, and though I found myself thinking that it was short on complexity or depth, I also found myself thinking that it will drink very well with foods, from simple grilled meats through light stews and fried meats. In short, it's a food wine that will complement what it's served with, and you may want a second bottle handy.
2 stars
Negretti Dolcetto D'Alba 2004
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is deft, with red berry fruit supported by some dusky cedar and hints of bitter almond that gain definition from some herbal notes. On the palate it's medium bodied, with pleasingly bright red berry fruit supported by citrus acidity and by tannins that have pleasing bitter accents, and flow into a clean warm tart fruit finish with tannic overtones. Pleasant in a direct key, and will drink nicely with succulent grilled meats or light stews, and also has the wherewithal to work well wit a platter of mixed fried meats. Expect the bottle to go quickly, and you may want another.
2 stars
Oddero Poderi E Cantine
B.ta Tetti-S. Maria, 28
12064 La Morra (CN) -
http://www.odderofratelli.it/
Oddero Poderi e Cantine Dolcetto D'Alba 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections cherry rim. The bouquet is slightly reduced, with hints of burnt match and stable straw. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderate frankly generic fruit supported by some bitterness, and slight acidity. It gives an impression of coasting, and I'd have liked greater depth and complexity.
1 star
Renato Ratti s.a.s. Di Pietro Ratti & c.
Frazione Annunziata, 7
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.renatoratti.com/
Renato Ratti Colombè Dolcetto D'Alba 2005
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fresh, and youthful, with bright cherry and raspberry fruit laced with some raspberry acidity and slight greenish notes. Sunny. On the palate it's medium bodied, with lively red berry fruit supported by bright acidity that provides direction, while the tannins are quite smooth and laced with peach nut bitterness that adds nice definition. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well with grilled meats or light stews. Well worth seeking out, and you may want a second bottle.
88-90
Tenuta Rocca Azienda Agricola
Loc. Ornati, 19
12065 Monforte D'Alba (CN)
http://www.tenutarocca.com/
Tenuta Rocca Vigna Sorì Rocca Dolcetto D'Alba 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black rim. The bouquet deft and elegant, with violets and bitter almonds blending nicely with rich red berry fruit laced with raspberry acidity. Inviting. On the palate it's rich, with bright sour raspberry fruit supported by tannins that have a splintery bitter tannic burr, and flow into a fairly long tart bitter finish. It's up front, in a bright frank sort of way that brings to mind the inquiring stare of a teen, and will work well with succulent grilled meats, including ribs (lightly spiced) or sausages, and also with fried meats and vegetables. In the proper setting it will be perfect, but you have to like the style.
2 stars
Tenuta Rocca Vigna Sorì Rocca Dolcetto D'Alba 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet much more animal than the 2005 wine, with balsam and greenish accents complemented by red berry fruit. Powerful too, and on the palate it's bright, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by slight greenish accents and deft acidity mingled with lively spice, while the tannins are fairly smooth, though they do display some splintery peppery overtones. It's zesty and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews, though you have to like the animal accents on the nose.
2 stars
Cà Viola Azienda Agricola
Borgata San Luigi, 11
12063 Dogliani (CN)
http://www.caviola.com/
Cà Viola Vilot Dolcetto D'Alba 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is delicate, with cherry blossoms mingled with bitter graphite accents and ripe red berry fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderate fruit supported by mineral acidity and clean bitter tannins that flow into a moderately long clean finish. It's a bit settled, and I'd have liked greater concentration in the fruit.
1 star
Cà Viola Barturot Dolcetto D'Alba 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is deft, with red berry fruit supported by bitter almonds and slight savory underbrush. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense fruit supported by deft bitter almond laced tannins, which carry the show while there is slight mineral acidity to provide direction, and it all flows into a clean bitter fruit laced finish. It's not a wine that will work well at a tasting, or far from the table, but the bitter accents will be quite nice with foods, and it will be a good bet with hearty pasta dishes, quickly cooked red meats, and light stews.
2 stars
Castello Di Neive Azienda Agricola Di Italo Stupino
Via Castelborgo, 1
12057 Neive (CN)
Tel 0173 67171
Castello di Neive Basarin Dolcetto D'Alba 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, and dusky, with shadowy red berry fruit supported by deft citric acidity and some bitter almond accents; the overall impression is one of inviting coolness. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rich jammy red berry fruit that gains definition from fairly intense mineral acidity and from tannins that lay a strong bitter burr over the tongue, and flow into a long bitter finish. It's quite tannic, and because of the astringent veneer the tannins lay down isn't a wine to drink by itself, though the same tannic aggressiveness will be a pleasant contrast to succulent or fatty grilled meats, or fried foods.
1 star
Castello di Neive Messoirano Dolcetto D'Alba 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit mingled with spice and pungent bitter almonds, while there is some underlying slightly greenish acidity to provide direction. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright red berry fruit supported by clean bitter tannins that are a touch splintery, and by moderate mineral acidity that all flow into clean bitter finish. Pleasant, and will drink very well with hearty pasta dishes -- mushroom sauce, for example -- or with succulent grilled or roasted meats.
2 stars
Cogno Elvio Azienda Agricola S.S.
Località Ravera, 2
12060 Novello (Cuneo)
http://www.elviocogno.com/
Elvio Cogno Vigna del Mandorlo Dolcetto D'Alba 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with bright cherry rim. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up some red berry fruit laced with leafy underbrush. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright fairly sour cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and brambly acidity that flow into a clean tart finish. It's a cheeky wine that will drink well with fattier frilled meats, ranging from sausages to chicken with its skin, and also with fried meats or succulent roasted white meats.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola La Cà
Località Ravinali, 25 -
12060 Roddi (Cn)
http://www.orlandilaca.com/
La Cà Biasin Dolcetto D'Alba 2005
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with dark cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some cedar and slight greenish accents and hints of graphite shavings; the impression is of a brooding individual. On the palate it's medium bodied with rather dusky plum cherry fruit supported by tannins that lay a bitter dusty trail over the tongue and settle into a distinctly bitter finish. It's oddly settled for a young wine, and I found myself wishing there were more life.
1 star
Giordano Ferdinando S.p.A.
Via Guido Cane, 47 bis /50
12050 Valle Talloria Di Diano D'Alba (CN)
http://www.giordano-vini.com/
Giordano Dolcetto D'Alba 2005
Black lam ruby with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is wild, with balsam and wet horse mingled with stable straw, and some underlying bitter almonds. Rustic. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite smooth, with rich, almost languid raspberry fruit that has some sour cherry accents, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins, while the acidity provides pleasant direction, flowing into a clean tart finish. The nose is frankly rustic, but it's pleasant on the palate and if you like wines on the wilder side, it will drink quite well with succulent grilled meats or fried foods. But you do have to like the style.
1 star
Giordano Costafiore Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is chemical, with airy cedar and some shellac, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full, and soft, with languid plum fruit supported by slight cedary tannins, while the acidity is minimal, and there are some residual sugars that provide sweetness. It's soft, rather like a pillow, and this isn't what I look for in Dolcetto. Because of its softness it will drink best with drier meats.
1 star
Rivetto Dal 1902
Località Lirano, 2
12050 Sinio (CN)
Tel. 0173 613380
Rivetto dal 1902 Frach Dolcetto D'Alba 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is reduced, with hints of burnt match and a fair amount of leafy underbrush with a slight underlying metallic tang. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit that gains some direction from mineral acidity, and is supported by fairly smooth tannins that have slight peppery accents. It's settled, and I'd have liked more brightness than I found.
1 star
Rivetto dal 1902 Ercolino Dolcetto D'Alba 2004
Deep pyrope ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with red berry fruit supported by some greenish accents and a fair amount of underbrush. On the palate it's medium bodied, and quite languid, with cherry plum fruit that gains some definition from clean mineral acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean tannic finish with some plum overtones. It's direct, and settled by comparison with the 2005 wines; it will in any case drink well with light roasts or stews.
1 star
Terre Da Vino S.p.A.
Via Bergesia, 6 12060
Barolo (CN)
http://www.terredavino.it/
Terre da Vino Roccabella Dolcetto D'Alba 2005
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fresh, with pleasing violets and cherry blossoms mingled with some bitter almonds with slight savory overtones that provide depth. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rich red berry fruit supported by deft mineral acidity, and by tannins that are quite smooth, gaining definition from some bitter accents, and lead into a clean mineral-laced fruit finish. Pleasant, in a soft direct key, and will drink quite well with white meats, including succulent roasted white meats. It's the sort of wine one can put out on the table, and have to replace almost immediately.
2 stars
Fontanafredda
Via Alba, 15
12050 Serralunga D'Alba (CN)
http://www.fontanafredda.it/
Fontanafredda Treiso Dolcetto D'Alba 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is a bit funky, with considerable underbrush mingled with some sea salt, and hints of balsam. Not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rather soft plum cherry fruit that gains direction from moderate plum acidity, and is supported by fairly smooth sweet tannins that have a dusty balsamic feel to them. It's not quite clean, and is settled to a degree.
1 star
Fontanafredda La Lepre Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with violets and cherry blossoms mingled with some acidity and slight bitter almonds. Inviting. On the palate it's medium bodied, with warm round raspberry cherry fruit supported by tart raspberry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean zesty berry fruit finish with deft tannic underpinning. It's pleasant, in a fairly cheeky key, and will drink quite well with meat based pasta sauces, grilled meats, or light stews, and also has the verve necessary to balance fried meats and vegetables. Worth seeking out, and expect the bottle to go quickly.
2 stars
Rizzi Azienda Vitivinicola
Via Rizzi, 15
12050 Treiso (CN)
http://www.cantinarizzi.it/
Rizzi Dolcetto D'Alba 2005
Deep cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with cherry blossoms and violets mingling with bitter almonds and some dusky cedar (from grapes). Pleasant, and somehow mysterious. On the palate it's fresh, with lively red berry fruit supported by clean mineral acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that gain definition from a slight bitter burr, and flow into a clean bitter fruit laced finish. It's what an Italian would call a vino a tutto pasto, a wine for the meal, and it will go well with everything from hearty pasta dishes through simple stew and lighter roasts. You may need a second bottle. Well worth seeking out.
2 stars
Rizzi Dolcetto D'Alba 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is tired, with moderate red berry fruit supported by greenish vegetal notes and some cedar. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rather languid cherry plum fruit supported by clean cedar-laced tannins (cedar from grape, not wood) and moderate mineral acidity that flows into a clean plum berry fruit finish. It's direct, and a bit softer than I might have liked, and I would have wanted greater richness on the nose. This said, it will drink well with succulent red meats or light roasts.
1 star
Cantina Terre Del Barolo
Via Barolo-Alba, 5
12060 Castiglione Falletto (CN)
http://www.terredelbarolo.com/
Terre del Barolo Dolcetto D'Alba 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is closed, though swishing does bring up some cedar and hints of shellac. Not much fruit. On the palate it's richer than one might have expected, with rather languid slightly sour berry fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and clean dry tannins that flow into a slightly sour finish. It's scrappy, in a skinned knees sort of key, and it's a pity that the nose is as silent as it is. It is in any case a wine to set out with foods, and won't distract from what it's served with.
1 star
Cascina Lo Zoccolaio
Via Boschetti, 4
12060 Barolo (Cn)
Tel 0141 88551 -
Cascina Lo Zoccolaio Vigna du Sagrin Dolcetto D'Alba 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up some chemical notes and cedar. On the palate it's soft, with ample cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and by smooth sweet tannins; the overall impression is tired and lacks freshness.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Osvaldo Viberti
Borgata Serra dei Turchi 95
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.vibertiosvaldo.it/
Viberti Osvaldo Galletto Dolcetto D'Alba 2004
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is wild, with balsamic notes and stable straw mingling with wet horse. On the palate it's medium bodied, with full red berry fruit supported by ample sweet tannins and moderate cherry fruit acidity that carries into a clean savory tannic finish. If you like elegant fruit laced bouquets it won't work for you, but if you like a more rustic style -- a fellow journalist said, stinky -- it will drink well with grilled meats, stews, and also has the acidity and strength necessary for fried meats. But you do have to like the style.
1 star
Ressia Azienda Agricola Di Ressia Fabrizio
Via Canova, 28
12052 Neive (CN)
http://www.ressia.com/
Ressia Canova Dolcetto D'Alba 2004
Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with red berry fruit mingled with graphite bitterness and some greenish overtones. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards full, with ample plum cherry fruit supported by moderate tannic warmth, which leads into a fairly long warm finish. It lumbers somewhat, a result of a degree of overripeness, and isn't as light nor as graceful as it might have been, though it does have a pleasing earnestness about it. It will drink well with simple grilled meats or stews.
1 star
Ressia Canova Dolcetto D'Alba Superiore 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is a touch tired, with moderate fruit and fairly intense vegetal overtones. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly intense, cherry plum fruit that is supported by warm citric acidity, and also by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean warm citric finish with some greenish overtones. It will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and also has the acidity necessary to stand up to richer fried meats and vegetables. I found it growing upon me, and expect the bottle will go quickly.
2 stars
Mossio Fratelli Azienda Agricola
Via Montà, 12
12050 Rodello (CN)
http://www.mossio.com/
Mossio F.lli Bricco Caramelli Dolcetto D'Alba 2004
Impenetrable pyrope with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is muted, with moderate fruit and some greenish accents. Not fresh. On the palate it's more of the same, with moderate plum fruit supported by dry cedary tannins that flow into a clean tannic finish. I'd have liked more fruit; it's quite settled and has begun to fade.
1 star
Mossio F.lli Bricco Caramelli Dolcetto D'Alba 2003
Impenetrable black almandine with black almandine rim. The bouquet is slightly musty and feels old; there isn't as much fruit as there likely was at once point, and there are some greenish overtones. On the palate it's medium bodied, and quite soft, with ample plum cherry fruit supported by clean smooth tannins, while there isn't much acidity at all. It's clearly the product of a hot vintage, and is very soft. Drink it with drier meats.
1 star
Gianni Voerzio
Strada Loreto 1
La Morra (CN)
Tel 0173 509 194
Gianni Voerzio Dolcetto D'Alba Rocchettevino 2005
Deep cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is rich and enveloping, with lively red berry fruit supported by deft slightly greenish acidity and powerful bitter almond accents. Extraordinary vitality. On the palate it's medium bodied and bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by clean bitterness and rich, slightly greenish tannins with a cool burr that flow into a long clean bitter finish. Very fine, with a richness and depth one rarely finds in Dolcetto, coupled with a wide-eyed vitality of the sort one finds in a handsome (or pretty) smiling teen, and will contribute considerably to grilled meats -- a porterhouse cut, even -- or light stews, with polenta. Seek it out.
92-3
Casetta F.lli s.a.s. Di Casetta Ernesto & C.
Via Castellero, 5
12040 Vezza D'Alba (CN)
http://www.flli-casetta.it/
Casetta F.lli Magallo Dolcetto D'Alba 2004
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish notes mingled with red berry fruit and some spice. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly bright sour red berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly quick finish that has tannic overtones. Direct, and a touch tired.
1 star
Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba
Cantina Produttori Dianesi Azienda Agricola
Via Santa Croce, 1/bis
12055 Diano D'Alba (CN)
http://www.produttoridianesi.com/
Cantina Produttori Dianesi Sorì Santa Lucia Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba 2005
Fairly rich cherry ruby with dusky cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with rather languid red berry fruit supported by some raspberry acidity and by some mineral accents, with slight underbrush as well. On the palate it's medium bodied, and quite smooth, with lively plum laced cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that lead into a clean fruit laced finish, while there is some plum acidity to provide direction and support. It comes across as just a touch overripe, but is pleasant and will drink very well with all sorts of foods, from pasta through succulent roasted white meats and light stews.
2 stars
Cantina Produttori Dianesi Sorì La Rocca Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba 2005
Deep black garnet ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is a touch musty, with red berry fruit mingling with some cedar, slight underbrush, and slight balsamic notes. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately rich, languid cherry plum fruit that fades quickly into balsamic notes that carry at length. It's not quite as clean as it might be, but will drink well with simple pasta dishes or light meats.
1 star
Cantina Produttori Dianesi Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is dusky, with moderately intense red berry fruit laced with greenish accents and some bitter almond; the effect brings to mind dappled shade. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately bright red berry fruit that gives way to a combination of mineral acidity and bitter tannins that carry though into a fairly long finish. To be frank the fruit fades surprisingly in mid-sip, and one is left wondering where it went. A pity, because until then I rather liked it.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Abrigo Fratelli
Via Moglia-Gerlotto, 2
12055 Diano d'Alba (CN)
http://www.langhe.net/abrigofratelli/
Abrigo F.lli Sorì dei Berfi Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fresh, with violets and cherry fruit mingled with dusky bitter almonds and some haunting greenish notes. Pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by clean mineral acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fruit laced finish with mineral accents. It's direct, and simple, and will drink quite well with what it's served with, supporting rather than demanding the limelight. What to serve it with? Hearty pasta sauces, hearty legume-based soups, simple grilled meats, or light stews. You may need a second bottle.
2 stars
Abrigo F.lli Vigna Pietrin Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba 2005
Impenetrable black cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some dusky balsamic notes and slight animal tang. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderate berry fruit supported by warm balsam-laced tannins and some acidity; the overall impression is a bit flat, and though not rustic not really clean either.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Abrigo Giovanni
Via Santa Croce, 9
12055 Diano d'Alba (CN)
http://www.abrigo.it/
Abrigo Giovanni Garabei Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some pungent underbrush and slight spice. Not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, and rather languid, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by decidedly savory tannins that have a fairly intense peppery tang to them, and flow into a quick bitter finish. I'd have liked more; it comes across as fairly settled and lacks richness. In any case, drink it with quickly cooked, simple meats.
1 star
Abrigo Giovanni Sorì Crava Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is frankly rustic, with a rush of wet stable straw mingled with lathered horse and underlying balsamic acidity. In a word, wild. On the palate it's similar, with considerable cedar-laced balsamic acidity, but not much in the way of fruit -- hints of plum that quickly fade -- and a fair amount of warmth. An old-style rustic wine with fruit is one thing, but something that's simply rustic is quite another.
No star
Poderi Sinaglio Di Accomo F.Lli Azienda Agricola
Via Sinaglio, 5
12055 Ricca Di Diano (CN)
http://www.poderisinaglio.it/
Accomo F.lli - Poderi Sinaglio Sorì Bric Maiolica Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba 2005
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some plum fruit laced with graphite bitterness and slight violets with some savory overtones. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rather languid plum fruit that gains direction from sour plum acidity, while it's supported by clean sweet tannins that have a slight cedary bitter burr, and flow into a clean tannic finish. Though I'd have liked more fruit in the finish, it does manage a degree of grace in a simple direct key; it will drink well with simple foods, ranging from beat based pasta sauces through quickly cooked meats and light roasts.
1 star
Accomo F.lli Poderi Sinaglio Sorì Bric Maiolica Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba 2004
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with pyrope rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with jammy red berry fruit supported by some greenish accents and spicy overtones. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by deft mineral-citric acidity and by ample smooth tannins that work to support it, though it comes across as settled, somehow, bringing to mind the sort of person my grandmother would have described as "broad abeam." The finish is clean, and fairly long. In short, it's pleasant but not as fresh as it might have been; it will in any case drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews.
1 star
Alario Claudio
Via S. Croce, 23
12055 Diano D'Alba (CN)
http://www.marcdegrazia.com/
Alario Claudio Costa Fiore Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba 2005
Deep black cherry ruby. The bouquet is chemical, with a mixture of underbrush and shellac but not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderate plum berry fruit that quickly fades, leaving space to warmth and cedary tannins. It's tired, and I found myself wanting more than I found. In terms of accompaniments, I would drink it with simple meats.
1 star
Alario Claudio Montagrillo Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba 2005
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some cedar. Not much fruit to speak of. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rather languid plum fruit that gains direction from some mineral acidity, and gradually fades into a clean mineral finish, while support comes from smooth sweet tannins that are only moderately substantial. It brings to mind someone who's indolent, and lacking in verve.
1 star
Az. Agr. Boffa F.lli
Via Alba Cortemilia, 142
Frazione Ricca
12055 Diano d'Alba
Tel 0173.612005
Boffa F.lli Sorì Pariso Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with slightly stewed plum-cherry fruit that gains direction from tart acidity; the overall impression is fairly direct. On the palate it's full, and soft, with moderately intense plum fruit that gains direction from some mineral acidity, and is supported by ample slightly balsamic tannins. It comes across as a bit overripe, and also settled; I'd have liked more tightness to the fruit, which is a bit lax. This said, it will drink well with simple stews and lighter roasts.
1 star
Boffa F.lli Sorì Pariso Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba 2004
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cut flowers and violets mingled with red berry fruit and some spice. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by mineral spice and smooth slightly cedary tannins that flow into a clean tannic finish. It's, well, the Italian word is seduto, which means seated. This said, drink it with simple fairly dry meats.
1 star
Bricco Maiolica Azienda Agricola Di Accomo Giuseppe
Via Bolangino, 7
12055 Diano D'Alba (CN)
http://www.briccomaiolica.it/
Bricco Maiolica Sorì Bricco Maiolica Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, with some berry fruit and some pungent underbrush, and, with determined swishing, some violets. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards full, with fairly rich plum fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have slight bitter undertones, and flow into a clean savory plum laced finish that gains definition from bitter accents. It's direct, in a slightly overripe key, and though I'd have liked greater verve, it will drink well with drier red or white meats.
1 star
Bricco Maiolica Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly balsamic, with moderate fruit and some warm balsamic acidity mingled with slight stable straw. On the palate it's medium bodied, with warm red berry fruit supported by clean sweet tannins, while direction comes from deft citric acidity. It's a touch rustic on the nose, and also gives an impression of holding back, but will be pleasant with grilled meats or light stews, if you like the style, which is a touch rustic.
2 stars
Casavecchia Marco Azienda Agricola
Via Roma, 2
12055 Diano D'Alba (CN)
Tel. 0173 69205
Casavecchia Marco Sorì Bruni Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is a bit overripe and also slightly oxidized, with cherry plum fruit mingled with hot iron and some spice. The palate reflects the nose, with soft plum fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity that flows into a clean finish. I'd have wanted more; it's a touch thin and frankly lacking in depth or complexity.
1 star
Casavecchia Marco Sorì Richin Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is muted, of the lights-out-nobody-home variety, though faint violets emerge with time, gaining in intensity and being joined by some berry fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity and by clean sweet tannins that are quite smooth, and lead into a clean cherry laced finish. It has a pleasing freshness and will drink nicely with simple red meats or light stews; I found it growing upon me.
2 stars
Castella Renzo Azienda Agricola
Via Alba, 15
12055 Diano D'Alba (CN)
Tel. 0173 69203
Castella Sorì del Bartu Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba 2005
Deep pyrope ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is wild, with intense balsamic notes mingled with wet stable straw and some underbrush. In a word, rustic. On the palate it's medium bodied, with strong slightly balsamic savory notes, and frankly balsamic tannins; though there is some mineral warmth there's not much fruit and it all quickly fades into balsamic tannins.
No star
Castella Renzo Vigna della Rivolia Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is dusky, with fairly pronounced greenish notes that overshadow red berry fruit, with some underlying cedar and underbrush. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense, surprisingly acidic plum fruit supported by cedar-laced sweet tannins that flow into a clean tannic finish with mineral plum overtones. It's direct, and simple -- I'd have liked greater richness to the fruit -- but will drink nicely with fairly rich pasta dishes, along the lines of pasta with mushroom sauce, or simple grilled meats.
1 star
Castella Renzo Vigna la Sorda Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is a touch rustic, with balsam and savory sea salt mingled with some spice and bramble; there's not much fruit to speak of. The palate reflects the nose; it's medium bodied and savory, with warm balsamic notes but not much in the way of fruit, and the finish is warm and balsamic. Because of its tannic dryness it will work well with succulent meats.
No star
Azienda Agricola Colla Angelo
Via Prov. Montelupo, 30
12055 Diano d'Alba
Tel 0173.69422
Colla Angelo Sorì du Rabin Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some cherry blossoms mingled with bitter almonds and underbrush. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense rather savory cherry plum fruit supported by a combination of mineral acidity and clean tannins that have some balsamic warmth to them, and flow into a clean savory balsamic finish. I'd have liked greater richness of fruit than I found, though it will drink well with simple grilled meats or light roasts.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Coluè
Via San Sebastiano, 1
12055 Diano d'Alba
http://www.colue.it/
Coluè Oddero Massimo Sorba Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is a bit rustic, with moderate fruit and some spice, but I found it frankly indifferent. On the palate it's richer than the nose suggests, with moderately intense slightly stewed cherry plum fruit supported by tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a clean finish that has tannic overtones. I'd have liked greater richness, and a touch less ripeness to the fruit, which is more plum than red berry fruit.
1 star
Coluè Oddero Massimo Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba 2005
Deep cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with violets and cherry blossoms mingled with red berry fruit and slight greenish accents that add depth. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rich red berry fruit supported by lively tart sour cherry acidity, and by tannins that have a warm bitter burr and flow into a clean tart tannic finish. It's quite fresh, and pleasant in a zesty key, and will drink very well with succulent grilled meats, especially fattier fare, or light stews, and will also be pleasant with a platter of fried meats and vegetables. Expect the bottle to go quickly, and you may want another. Worth seeking out.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Le Cecche
Via Moglia Gerlotto, 10
12055 Diao d'Alba
http://www.lececche.com/home.swf
Le Cecche Sorì Le Cecche Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The nose is off, with spicy berry fruit considerably overshadowed by cedar, which has balsamic overtones. On the palate it's full and soft with moderately intense sour plum fruit supported by balsam-laced tannins that flow into a clean balsamic finish.
1 star
Le Cecche Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby. The bouquet is airy, with some underbrush and hints of animal tang, in particular stables. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense plum fruit supported by some acidity, and by clean cedary tannins that flow into a warm tannic finish. It's tired, and a touch overripe.
1 star
Salvano S.r.l
Via Cane Guido, 1
12055 Diano D'Alba (CN)
http://www.salvano.com
Salvano Sorì Bric Genesio Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is rustic, with balsamic notes and leather mingled with underbrush and warm lathered horse, but not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fruit laced finish with some acidity. It is a bit rustic, but has life to it, and will drink well with succulent grilled meats or light stews, and also has the acidity necessary for fried meats. If you like the style it is a nice choice, but you have to like the style.
1 star
Salvano Fosco Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba 2004
Deep pyrope ruby. The bouquet is wild, with balsam and horse hair mingled with wet stable straw. On the palate it's medium bodied, and surprisingly languid, with bright red berry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean tart raspberry finish. The nose is frankly rustic, but if you like that style it is pleasant on the palate, and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews, and also has the acidity necessary to stand up to fried meats and vegetables. But you have to like the style.
1 star
Savigliano F.lli Azienda Agricola
Via Cane Guido, 20
12055 Diano D'Alba (CN)
http://www.saviglianovini.it/
Savigliano F.lli Sorì del Sot Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is chemical, with not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderate fairly tart cherry fruit supported by savory tannins and tart cherry acidity. I'd have liked greater richness in the nose, which is frankly absent.
1 star
Savigliano F.lli Sorì Autin Grand Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba 2005
Deep. Ruby. The nose is shut tight, with some hints of shellac and sea salt but not much fruit. On the palate it's direct, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by clean sweet tannins that flow into a fairly quick mineral finish. I'd have liked greater depth and richness, especially on the nose.
1 star
Az. Agr. Savigliano Mario
Via Madonnina, 1
12055 Diano d'Alba
Tel 0173.69196
Savigliano Mario Sorì Bartu Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections The bouquet is fairly intense, with cut flowers and floral accents mingled with spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean mineral acidity finish. Pleasant in a direct up front key, and will drink nicely with meat based pasta sauces, light stews, and lesser grilled meats. Expect the bottle to go quickly.
1 star
Dolcetto di Dogliani 2005
Note jotted in mid-tasting: Dogliani tries very hard. Many display a separation between fruit and tannic structure.
Azienda Agricola Bricco del Cucù
Frazione Bricco, 10
12060 Bastia Mondovì (Cuneo) -
http://www.briccocucu.com/
Bricco del Cucù Dolcetto di Dogliani 2005
Deep pyrope ruby with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by considerable peach pit and bitter almond bitterness and delicate violets, with vinous warmth and spice as well. Invigorating. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright berry fruit that gains direction from some tart berry acidity, but more from pronounced bitterness that flows into a clean bitter fruit laced finish, while the tannins that provide support are quite smooth. Quite nice, and will drink very well with grilled meats or light stews; it's one of those wines that you'll need a second bottle of because the first will vanish. Worth seeking out.
2 stars
Bricco del Cucù Dolcetto di Dogliani 2004 Superiore
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with pyrope rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is intense, with strong greenish notes mingled with alcohol and some spice, while there is also underlying leathery plum fruit with balsamic overtones; the impression is a bit rustic. On the palate it's full, and soft, with ample cherry plum fruit supported by soft tannins, while the direction comes from fairly bright sour plum acidity, and leads into a rather bitter tannic finish. It has a lumbering softness to it, and gives an impression of trying hard to be a Wine rather than a wine. Because of its softness I would drink it with drier meats.
1 star
Cantina Clavesana Società Cooperativa Agricola
Fraz. Madonna della Neve, 19
12060 Clavesana (Cuneo) -
http://www.cantinaclavesana.it/
Cantina di Clavesana Dolcetto di Dogliani 2005
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some tart berry fruit with bitter accents and underlying cedar. On the palate it's medium bodied, and languid, with fairly rich red berry fruit that gains some direction from moderate acidity, and more from peach pit bitterness that flows into a clean smooth finish; the tannins are light and round. It's fairly direct, and a touch thinner than I might have liked, but will drink well with hearty legume based soups or simple meat dishes that aren't too fatty.
1 star
Cantina di Clavesana Pensieri Dolcetto di Dogliani 2004 Superiore
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is not as clean as it might be, with an initial rush of wet cardboard mingled with slightly greenish spice. Not much fruit. On the palate it's full and soft, with moderate mineral laced red berry fruit supported by some tart acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins. To be frank the structure seems overlarge for the fruit, and brings to mind a small woman wearing a big man's overcoat.
1 star
Abbona Di Abbona Marziano e C.
Borgata San Luigi, 40
12063 DOGLIANI (CN)
http://www.abbona.com/
Abbona Marziano San Luigi Dolcetto di Dogliani 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with red berry fruit supported by dusky bitter notes that gain in intensity with swishing, coupled with sea salt and some spice. Nice balance. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately rich red berry fruit that gains direction from a combination of bitterness and moderate acidity, while the tannins have a slight splintery burr, and flow into a clean fruit laced finish. I'd have liked a little more fruit; though it's not thin a little more meat on the bones would have been nice, as it were. In any case, it will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and will go quite quickly.
1 star
Abbona Marziano Papa Celso Dogliani DOCG 2005
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with deft red berry fruit supported by greenish spicy accents and some bitter almond, with a degree of alcohol as well. On the palate it's full, with fairly powerful red berry fruit that gains direction from moderate slightly sour acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that aren't as dry as those of many of the wines from Dogliani, and therefore hold better to the fruit, providing a more unified whole. It's pleasant, but the fruit isn't quite as rich as I might have liked, and the finish is a touch dry too; the latter characteristic makes it better suited to foods than to being drunk alone. It will drink well with succulent roasts or stews.
2 stars
Abbona Marziano Sirì D'Jermù Dogliani DOCG 2005
Deep pyrope ruby with violet rim. The bouquet is fresh, with violets and some jammy berry fruit supported by graphite shavings and some warm bitter overtones. On the palate it's medium bodied and pleasingly languid, with fairly voluptuous cherry plum fruit that gains direction from moderate mineral acidity coupled with some greenish bitter accents, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins. There's more flesh to it than there was in many other Dogliani wines, and the tannins again hold tighter to the fruit, providing a more unified whole. It will work well with drier roasts and light stews.
2 stars
Cascina Minella Azienda Agricola
Borgata Barella, 80
12063 Dogliani (CN) -
http://www.cascinaminella.it/
Cascina Minella Bricco Dolcetto di Dogliani 2005
Barrel sample
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich in a youthful key, with violets and some red berry fruit mingled with moderate berry fruit jam, acidity and slight bitterness. The overall effect is graceful and willowy rather than muscular. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite smooth, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and to a much greater degree by savory bitter notes, while the tannins underneath it all are quite smooth, and flow into a fairly savory bitter finish. Pleasant, in an unassumingly direct key, and will drink quite nicely with winter soups, simple pasta dishes, and quickly cooked meats. Expect it to go quickly, and you will likely want another bottle handy.
2 stars
Cascina Minella Bricco Dolcetto di Dogliani 2004
Deep pyrope ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with berry fruit and some spice supported by slight greenish notes and clean airy alcohol. On the palate it's full, and fairly rich, with deft cherry plum fruit supported by slight mineral acidity, and by ample smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean plum laced finish. It's quite soft, and will drink well with drier white meats, either off the grill or roasted.
2 stars
Chionetti Quinto & Figlio di Chionetti Quinto
Frazione San Luigi 44 -
12063 Dogliani (CN)
http://www.langhe.net/chionetti/
Chionetti Quinto Briccolero Dolcetto di Dogliani 2005
Deep pyrope ruby with violet rim. Charged. The bouquet is powerful, with a rush of violets mingled with rich slightly jammy forest berry fruit that gains definition from slightly green bitter almond blossoms. Heady. On the palate it falls flat; it's medium bodied, with fairly rich berry fruit, but the tannins have an angry cedar veneer that coats the tongue and dries it out, leading into a very dry savory finish. A pity, because the nose was nice, but because of its structure it's not a wine to sip far from the table. It will, on the other hand, work well with succulent grilled meats, for example sausages and ribs, or other rich foods that beg a tannic wine to clear the palate between bites.
2 stars
Chionetti Quinto San Luigi Dolcetto di Dogliani 2005
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and not quite clean, with hints of mushrooms mingled into red berry fruit, with some underlying spice. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards thin, with rather tart sour cherry fruit supported by tannins that are frankly astringent and dry out the tongue, flowing into a tart bitter finish. Because of its tannic aggressiveness, it will work well with succulent to fatty grilled meats or stews.
1 star
Poderi Luigi Einaudi
Borgata Gombe 31
12063 Dogliani (CN)
http://www.poderieinaudi.com/welcome.lasso#
Poderi Luigi Einaudi Dolcetto di Dogliani 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit laced with bitter almond blossoms and slight floral notes, with underlying alcohol. I'd have liked greater intensity. On the palate it's medium bodied, and richer than the nose suggests though still not powerful, with moderately intense fairly sour red berry fruit that has a pleasing fullness in the attack but then fades into a fairly tart rather tannic finish. More fruit would have fleshed it out. It will in any case drink well with more succulent to fatty meats that will profit from something to clear the palate between bites.
1 star
Poderi Luigi Einaudi Dogliani Dogliani DOCG 2005
The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up some greenish accents and slight spice, and, with time, some red berry fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense fairly dry greenish berry fruit that gains direction from warm slightly balsamic savory acidity, and is supported by smooth balsamic tannins that carry into a warm savory finish. I'd have liked greater concentration and richness of fruit -- it's a little too dry, especially in the finish -- but it does walk in step, as it were, with the tannins and fruit going in the same direction, and as a result it holds together nicely. It will drink well with fattier grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars
Poderi Luigi Einaudi Vigna Tecc Dolcetto di Dogliani 2004
Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some hints of plum mingled with slight spice. On the palate it's full and soft, with ample plum berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins, and by clean slightly mineral acidity that keeps it from settling. There isn't much in the ay of bitter accents, and because of its softness I would drink it with drier meats.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Ribote
Borgata Valdiberti, 24
12063 Dogliani (CN)
Tel. 0173 70371
Ribote San Luigi Dolcetto di Dogliani 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, with hints of berry fruit and slight savor tang, but not much in the way of floral accents. On the palate it's similar, with moderate red berry fruit that gains some direction from slight mineral acidity, and is supported by dry tannins that separate from the wine, and leave the tongue coated with a savory tannic wash.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Vitivinicola Romana Carlo
Fraz. Gombe 16
12063 Dogliani (CN)
http://www.viniromana.it/
Romana Carlo Surì Vinsant Dolcetto di Dogliani 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some berry fruit supported by greenish accents and some alcohol, though there aren't many floral accents. It feels settled. On the palate it's richer than the nose would suggest though not really powerful, with fairly bright slightly mentholated red berry fruit that gains direction from moderate acidity and a degree of bitterness, while the underlying tannins are fairly astringent. It's a food wine that will drink well with succulent grilled meats or light stews, and can also be pressed into service with fattier roasted white meats, for example pork loin with the bones. Expect it to go quickly given the proper setting.
1 star
Romana Carlo Brich Dij Nor Dolcetto di Dogliani 2004
Deep pigeon blood ruby. The bouquet is muted, with some gum Arabic and slight greenish spice mingling with plum. On the palate it's tired, with moderate fruit and ample soft tannins that flow into a clean fairly tart finish. It is flagging.
1 star
Romana Carlo Rumanot Dolcetto di Dogliani 2004
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly medicinal, with some cedar and moderate spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, and richer than one might have expected from the nose, with fairly intense cherry plum fruit supported by warm slightly splintery tannins that flow into a clean fairly rich plum laced finish, while moderate acidity keeps it from settling. The bouquet is a touch tired, though it's pleasant enough on the palate, and it will drink well with drier red or white meats -- roast beef, cooked medium, for example.
2 stars
San Fereolo Azienda Agricola
Borgata Valdibà, 59
12063 Dogliani (CN)
http://www.sanfereolo.com/
San Fereolo Valdibà Dolcetto di Dogliani 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is deft, with violets and red berry fruit nicely balanced by greenish spicy notes. Pleasant. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright red berry fruit supported by deft mineral acidity and some bitter almond that add depth, and by clean sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly savory finish. A pleasantly direct classic Dolcetto that will be perfect with all sorts of foods. Worth seeking out.
2 stars
San Fereolo San Fereolo Dogliani DOCG 2005
Impenetrable cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is understated, with moderate floral accents mingling with some spice and slight savory overtones; there's not much fruit, alas. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly deft red berry fruit supported by soft acidity and slight bitter accents that flow into a clean slightly tannic finish. It feels oddly tired, and is more settled than I'd expect a young wine to be.
1 star
San Fereolo San Fereolo Dolcetto di Dogliani 2004 Superiore
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is rather medicinal, with some spice and moderate fruit. On the palate it's full and quite soft, with moderate rather dry cherry plum fruit supported by smooth soft tannins, while there is some direction from berry fruit acidity. It's a bit settled, but makes me wish I could have met it in its youth.
1 star
San Romano - Società Agricola
Borgata Giachelli, 8
12063 Dogliani (CN)
http://www.langhe.net/sanromano/
San Romano Vigna del Pilone Dolcetto di Dogliani 2005
Impenetrable pyrope with violet rim. The bouquet is fresh, with violets and slightly jammy red berry fruit supported by some bitter almonds and slight mentholated notes; it's pleasant in an opulent key. On the palate it's medium bodied and fairly direct, with an initial rush of plum laced red berry fruit that gains direction from surprisingly pronounced mineral acidity, and is supported by tannins that have a warm aggressive burr to them, and flow into a warm tannic finish. It's going in two different directions on the palate, with the fruit heading one way and the tannins another, and as a result it's not a wine I would want to drink far from the table. However, if served with fatty meats that will tame the tannins, I think it will come together. But it has to be served with the proper foods, and at that point it will contribute nicely to the meal.
1 star
San Romano Bricco delle Lepri Dolcetto di Dogliani 2005
Deep violet ruby with black reflections and violet rim. The bouquet is fresh, with violets mingling with berry fruit jam and slight mentholated greenish notes, while there are also bitter almonds underlying it all and providing depth. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich slightly sour ripe berry fruit supported by clean citric acidity, and by bitter accents, while the underlying tannins that provide structure are smooth and sweet, and flow into a clean sweetish plum-laced finish. It's pleasant and more what I expect of a Dolcetto than many of the wines poured in the flights, and will drink nicely with simple grilled meats or light stews, and also has the backbone necessary to work with more voluptuous first course dishes, for example pasta with a wild mushroom sauce.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Sicca Giovanni
Via Rambaudi, 5
12040 Sanfrè (CN)
http://www.siccavini.it/
Sicca Giovanni Dolcetto di Dogliani 2005
Deep black almandine ruby with cherry ruby reflections. The bouquet gives an initial impression of smoky hazelnuts with some spice that resolves into a distinct animal tang with lathered horse and stable straw. On the palate it's medium bodied, and fairly rich, with powerful cherry fruit supported by clean citric acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have slight bitter accents but hold more closely to the fruit than many in the flight, and flow into a clean slightly greenish bitter finish. It's a touch rustic on the nose, but pleasant to drink, and if you like this older (perhaps less clean) style it will drink quite well with succulent grilled meats or light stews. But you do have to like the style.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Caraglio
B.ta Biarella 69
Dogliani (CN)
Tel 0173 70738
Caraglio Dolcetto di Dogliani 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some spicy plum fruit laced with bitter almonds and some spice, with underlying violets. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately rich fruit that's surprisingly tart, separating into warm acidity on the one hand and dry tannins on the other; the separation is unexpected and rather disconcerting. In terms of accompaniments, because of the acidity and the aggressiveness of the tannins, i would go with fatty frilled meats or roasts.
1 star
Abbona Anna Maria Azienda Agricola
Frazione Moncucco, 21
12060 Farigliano (CN)
http://www.amabbona.com/
Abbona Anna Maria Sorì du But Dolcetto di Dogliani 2005
Deep pyrope ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is bright and fresh with deft tart red berry fruit supported by floral accents and considerable bitter almond, with some greenish vegetal notes, peppery spice, and some alcohol. A lot going on. On the palate it's light, deft, and bright, with fairly intense berry fruit that gains direction from pleasant floral accents and considerable bitter almonds, while the tannins, which are clean and smooth with some bitter notes, lead into a clean finish. Quite nice, and will drink very well with grilled meats or light roasts.
2 stars
Abbona Anna Maria Maioli Dolcetto di Dogliani 2004
This is made from older vines, and spends a year in steel. Anna Maria plans to bottle the vintage after next as Dogliani DOCG, but for now it is a Dolcetto. It's impenetrable pyrope ruby with pyrope rim, and has a rich bouquet with bright berry fruit and herbal notes shot through with menthol and alcoholic warmth. On the palate it's ample and soft, with full cherry and forest berry fruit that gains direction from moderate mineral acidity, and is supported by rich peppery tannins that flow into a fairly long, berry fruit finish with tart tannic overtones.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Eraldo Revelli
Località Pianbosco, 29
12060 Farigliano (CN)
http://www.langhe.net/revelli/
Revelli Eraldo San Matteo Dolcetto di Dogliani 2005
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense and unusual, with jammy notes and hints of menthol and sugar that lead a fellow taster to wonder about Aleatico, a classic dessert wine of the Tuscan coast. The palate is equally unusual, with an initial rush of sweetness that is supported by red berry fruit and gradually gives way to dry tannins that are also savory, so the finish is fairly dry, though some of the sugars remain. It's absolutely atypical, and one wonders what happened. I have no idea what I would serve it with, perhaps a spicy stew with a fair amount of pepper. You will either like it or not; there's no middle ground.
1 star
Rivelli Eraldo Autin Lungh Dolcetto di Dogliani 2005
Lively cherry ruby with bright cherry rim. The bouquet is a bit wild, with balsamic notes and animal tang mingled with some stable straw and savory overtones. Not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense fairly bright cherry fruit that gains definition from sour accents, and is supported by clean sweet tannins that flow into a clean smooth slightly tannic finish. As has been the case with many other Dolcetti, it holds together on the palate better than many wines that are less rustic on the nose, and if you like this older style it will do a nice job of accompanying frilled or stewed meats.
1 star
Costa Prà
Borgata Costa Prà, 1
12060 Clavesana (CN)
Tel 0173 790467
Tenuta Costa di Prà Dogliani DOCG 2005
Impenetrable pyrope with violet rim; poured ink. The bouquet is powerful, with rich slightly mentholated cherry plum fruit that gains depth from some alcohol, and clean spice with some bitter accents. On the palate it's fairly full, with cherry violet fruit supported by moderate acidity and by spicy tannins that lay a peppery trail over the tongue, and flow into a clean fairly dry tannic finish that gains definition from some sour accents. It's big, and gives an impression of trying to be big, somehow, as if the winemaker decided to go for it, as it were. I found it too dry in the finish, though this is in a tasting situation far from food; I'd serve it with succulent to fatty meats that will benefit from the cleansing actions of the tannins, and at that point I think it would come together.
1 star
Tenuta Costa di Prà Vigna Isabella Dolcetto di Dogliani 2003 Superiore
Alcohol and warmth, not much fruit however, and no floral accents. Some greenness, and hints of hot iron. On the palate it's full, and soft, with ample plum cherry fruit that gains direction from slight cherry acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins. It's all right, but not exciting on the palate (though it will drink well with drier meats), but simply isn't inviting on the nose, and this is a major problem that many of the older Dolcetti share.
No star
Cantina Del Dolcetto Di Dogliani S.a.c.
Via Torino, 58
12063 Dogliani (CN)
http://www.cantinadolcettodogliani.it/
Cantina del Dolcetto di Dogliani Vigna Costabella Dolcetto di Dogliani 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is spicy, with wood smoke and some animal notes, but not much fruit. A bit rustic. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by clean citric acidity and deft tannins that have some bitter overtones and flow into a clean slightly sour fruit finish. It's pleasant in a slightly maturer key than the 05 wines, and will drink well with succulent grilled meats.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Caraglio
B.ta Biarella 69 -
Dogliani (CN)
Tel. 0173 70738
http://www.aziendaagricolacaraglio.191.it
Caraglio Surimatin Dolcetto di Dogliani 2004
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry plum fruit and a fair amount of sweetness as well, with greenish animal overtones. On the palate it's full, smooth, and fairly sweet, with ample plum cherry fruit that gains direction from sour berry fruit acidity, and is supported by clean slightly splintery tannins that flow into a clean berry fruit finish.
1 star
Marenco Aldo Azienda Agricola
Fraz. Pamparato Pironi, 25
12063 Dogliani (CN)
http://www.marencoaldo.it/
Marenco Aldo Surì Dolcetto di Dogliani 2005
Deep pyrope with inky black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet has a fair amount of alcohol mingled with stewed cherry fruit and slight mentholated bitter notes that add a sweetish depth, though I'd have liked greater intensity overall. On the palate it's medium bodied and dry, with moderate red berry fruit supported by tannins that are frankly cedary, and lay down an astringent wash that carries though into a savory tannic finish. I'd have liked more and better defined fruit than I found.
1 star
Marenco Aldo Parlapà Dolcetto di Dogliani 2004 Superiore
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with deep ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with jammy berry fruit laced with plums and some greenish overtones; it feels frankly overripe and gives an impression of softness. On the palate it's full, with fairly deft ample plum fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by tannins that have an unusual peppery green burr to them that flows into a distinctly disjointed tannic finish that's both aggressive and very dry. The wine is going in two directions at once, and given its softness isn't going to reach destination before it settles into old age.
1 star
Pecchenino Azienda Agricola
Borgata Valdiberti, 59
12063 Dogliani (CN)
http://www.pecchenino.com/
Pecchenino Bricco Botti Dolcetto di Dogliani 2004 Superiore
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is medicinal, with some hot iron mingled with greenish eucalyptus and savory spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full, and richer than one might have expected, with fairly full cherry plum fruit that gains definition from moderate berry fruit acidity, and is supported by fairly smooth sweet tannins that flow into a finish that quickly fades into tannic alcoholic warmth. It's not settled, but it is decidedly portly, and I'd have liked greater richness in the nose, which isn't absent but doesn't reflect the palate that well. Because of its tannic dryness in the finish I would drink it with drier meats served with gravies or sauces.
1 star
Barone Riccati Il Colombo
Via dei Sent, 2
12084 Mondovì (CN)
Tel. 0174 41607
Il Colombo La Chiesetta Dolcetto delle Langhe Monregalesi 2005
Deep cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright slightly greenish red berry fruit with pleasant bitter almond accents. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright berry fruit supported by greenish tannins that have pleasant spicy accents, and lead into a dry clean finish. Pleasant and very young.
1 star
Il Colombo Il Colombo Dolcetto delle Langhe Monregalesi 2003
Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim. The bouquet is tired, and settled, with medicinal notes and greenish overtones, but little in the way of floral accents or ripe fruit. The palate reflects the nose: it's big and soft, with slight acidity and smooth soft tannins.
1 star
