Sunday, April 01, 2007

Wines Tasted at Vinitaly: A Pair from the Südtirol

I've spent much of the past couple of days tasting Lagrein, one of the Südtirol's signature reds -- Since almost all the winemakers go to Vinitaly, it offers an unparalleled opportunity to taste through a varietal. Of course I haven't tasted just Lagrein, and here are a couple of wines that attracted my attention, one red and the other not:

Bolzano Cantina Produttori - Santa Maddalena - Greis's Collection Südtirol Lagrein Grieser 2005 (lot 7/079)

This is made by a cooperative winery, and shows that the region's cooperatives can do some very nice things. The wine is deep black almandine ruby with black reflections, and has a fresh bouquet with a fair amount of berry fruit laced with India ink and some spice. Pleasant. On the palate it's light, with bright berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins with sandalwood and graphite shavings, while directions comes from clean mineral acidity that flows into a clean slightly bitter finish. Quite approachable, with nary a pretense, and will drink well with red meats, or light stews. Expect the bottle to go quite fast.
2 stars

A very different change of pace:

Andreas Baron Widmann Südtiroler Goldmuskateller 2006
Prerelease sample; it's papery white and has a rich bouquet with intriguing charged green apples mingled with greenish spice and warmth, with underlying floral accents and more. A great lot going on, and it's one of those wines you can swirl in the glass at length. On the palate it's full, and rich, with lively white berry fruit supported by mineral accents and alcoholic warmth that flow into a long clean tart finish that lasts and lasts- Intriguing, and a very nice wine to drink by the glass with friends, or with rich cheese or egg based dishes.

2 stars

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